You are like the ONLY PERSON on the whole internet that actually definitively says where the damn connector is located. My code reader book says it can be in any of four places. No, it is in reality only in ONE place and YOU showed it. THANK YOUI!!!!!
Man... where was this video in 2011? I ended up selling my 1989 B2, in 2012 because myself & no garages could repair a very poorly running engine. I bought an '89 Eddie Bauer BII (103k mi.) in 2003 for $300. The A/T died & the PO coasted off the highway & abandoned it at a local service station in town... at the end of the exit ramp. A friend gave me a '90 BII with a M/T and a blown motor. I did an A/T to M/T swap, lifted the body 3" & drove the '89 for 9 years. I dumped $800 (parts) into it just swapping parts hoping for a cure. I even swapped the ECU. I sold it for $300 on CL.
I just tried this and the connector started smoking on my 1990 Ford bronco II I don’t understand why it did, it didn’t melt the wire but it burned the insulation off
derek wise Yes! Hook it up to test codes whether the light is on or not. Get the digital code tester from Amazon and the extension cable. Warm the engine up before testing . Watching lights blink can be confusing. Get a Snap-on scanner from E-Bay and the cartridges and adapters and cables and manuals. It can tell alot about your car! It does KOEO and KOER tests on both the digital tester and Snap-on scanner.
derek wise A Actron CP9690 code tester checks codes and reads it digitally. It does KOEO and KOER and timing advance test and solenoid and relay test, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013.
Soo I’m having many problems with my 93 bronco xlt with a 5.8 I followed your steps and the check engine light flashed the code instead of the abs light any ideas as to why that would happen?
You are like the ONLY PERSON on the whole internet that actually definitively says where the damn connector is located. My code reader book says it can be in any of four places. No, it is in reality only in ONE place and YOU showed it. THANK YOUI!!!!!
Man... where was this video in 2011? I ended up selling my 1989 B2, in 2012 because myself & no garages could repair a very poorly running engine.
I bought an '89 Eddie Bauer BII (103k mi.) in 2003 for $300. The A/T died & the PO coasted off the highway & abandoned it at a local service station in town... at the end of the exit ramp. A friend gave me a '90 BII with a M/T and a blown motor. I did an A/T to M/T swap, lifted the body 3" & drove the '89 for 9 years. I dumped $800 (parts) into it just swapping parts hoping for a cure. I even swapped the ECU. I sold it for $300 on CL.
Thanks for the video!! #6years later lol
Do you have a process for RABS and Brake check lights?
Didn't work on my 1990 Ford F250, engine light just stayed on
I just tried this and the connector started smoking on my 1990 Ford bronco II I don’t understand why it did, it didn’t melt the wire but it burned the insulation off
Mint
Just happened to my 90 B2 😅
THANKYOUUUUUUUUU!!!!!! I NEEDED THIS!!!!
Will this work if my check engine light isn’t on
derek wise Yes! Hook it up to test codes whether the light is on or not. Get the digital code tester from Amazon and the extension cable. Warm the engine up before testing . Watching lights blink can be confusing. Get a Snap-on scanner from E-Bay and the cartridges and adapters and cables and manuals. It can tell alot about your car! It does KOEO and KOER tests on both the digital tester and Snap-on scanner.
derek wise A Actron CP9690 code tester checks codes and reads it digitally. It does KOEO and KOER and timing advance test and solenoid and relay test, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013.
@@martystevens8357 yeah, spend $200+ instead of doing the same thing for free. Makes sense
Soo I’m having many problems with my 93 bronco xlt with a 5.8 I followed your steps and the check engine light flashed the code instead of the abs light any ideas as to why that would happen?
That’s what should happen..
2222?
I just used a paperclip. Look at 1:43 of 9:16... at ruclips.net/video/-YYQKssOEOs/видео.html.