How to Read OBD1 Codes on Pre-96 Ford F150
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- Опубликовано: 15 ноя 2020
- If you are having any engine, transmission, or electrical issues, you definitely want to read your ECU codes. Here's how to do that on an OBDI F150
All fuel injected cars have ECUs, ECM, or some kind of computer controlled engine management system. The systems store fault codes when an issue is detected. These codes are stored in the “On Board Diagnostics” system or OBD. Cars pre-1996 had the OBD1 system and post-1996 cars have the OBD2 system. Since the OBD1 system is older and not as common these days, getting the codes read isn’t easy. Most auto parts stores don’t offer a free service to have OBD1 codes read. This means you have to purchase an OBD1 code reader. The one in this video is a great option for reading the OBD1 codes on Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles.
#f150 #bronco #obd1
🚧Here is the Amazon link for the code reader👇
amzn.to/3zohOug
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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Perfect instructions. I love these videos where there is no BS, excessive music, and crazy editing. Your information was excellent!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you !
Me too. Great job.
Thanks you just got a 1995 f-350 and was running rough and stalling and turning off got the scanner to troubleshoot it but found it was the PCM found out the previous owner replaced the original PCM for a 5.8 with a PCm for a 460 motor lol
@@datapark9118 besides that, did it totally work with your truck operating as it should now ?
I don't thank you often enough for these videos. Last year I acquired a '96 4wd with the 300 I6 that needs a lot of work. Stupid as it sounds, it's kind of my dream truck. And your instructions make it a cost-effective restoration, where subbing out all the labor would probably bankrupt me. Thank you!
You are most welcome man!🤙 I’m glad I can help you fix up your dream truck (which is definitely not stupid). My childhood dream vehicle was a purple pick up truck. Now, I drive one and make videos about it!🤙
I own the obd1 code reader for Ford, Lincoln, Mercury. I just plug it into the test port under the hood of my 1992 Ford Tempo. It gives me a code number. I look up the code number in the thick book that came with the code reader and it said "cylinder 1 misfire." I bought mine at Walmart back in the day, but I still see them on ebay for $40. You had to buy separate obd1 code readers for each brand of vehicle you owned. I looked at reviews of the adapter cable that connects your obd1 port to your new obd2 code reader and tons of people in the comments said that they wasted money, because their's don't work.
Wow you gave me an education, I just bought convertors for my cars to use my fancy OBD2 tester, and you were explicit, concise, and articulate
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
You are very welcome. And thank you. I went on ebay and bought multiple convertors. 1 for my 90 ford. Kia van. Mercedes
All I can say is, Thank you, Thank you and Thank you. I bought the reader you suggested, followed your instructions and it is great.
You are most welcome! Glad it helped you out🤙
Really good instructions, thank you! I've never used on before, not I don't feel so intimidated. I'm picking up a used truck, and want to make sure it has no major problems.
Thanks man!🤙They can definitely look intimidating for sure.
THANKS! I used mine to find that the TPS was bad with the key ON test but was wary about how to do the engine ON test. Now I know!
'94 F-150 5.0 XLT - 132K miles.
You are welcome Jim!🤙 Yeah the key on test can definitely feel sketchy to do.
This is the best video on this I have seen! Ford owners everywhere will be back on the road soon, wish I I had bought a scanner with the truck.
Thanks Edward! 🤙 I appreciate it.
Concerning the ODB1, you are spot on and made it look toooooo easy. Frankly never before had I used a reader and I had to read the instructions numerous times before completely understanding the process and procedure. Your video just completely tied up the loose ends for me. Thank you. ONE THING When I first hooked the reader up and plugged in I received no indication it was connected. Well come to discover the pins on the reader (two of them) had recessed into the reader itself and were only pultruding out of the reader say 1/8 of an inch. So be aware the quality of this reader has some issues. I place a drop of quick drying glue on the base of the finger and that did it for me.
Absolutely! These are the most difficult code readers to use. It’s unfortunate that this is the only affordable reader and the quality is hit or miss.
Yes, I second that! No fluff, just the good stuff! Thanks Steve, when are you opening the DYI garage? Knowledge is key!
Thanks man!🤙 Hahaha! I’ve actually thought of that as a potential business venture. So many of us DIY mechanic would love a place to rent a lift and tools and have a place to work on our vehicles.
Wow. I can see why things got redesigned in 96. Thanks for the info. I'll try not to break a wire or bend a prong during this process.
I know right! Lol
Great explanation...going to buy one through your link...thanks!
Thanks man!🤙 Definitely, a good piece of diagnostics equipment. You’re welcome!
Great job.
Just bought this scan tool recently.
Thanks man!🤙
Nice! You will get some use out of it for sure!
I got a Bosch OBD 1300 from a pawn shop for $60, It was Like new with all the cables. Best code reader I have ever used for OBD I Fords.
Nice! I never knew Bosch made one. Bosch makes good products.
excellent!!!! so glad i ran across your vid on this… hatted the paper clip!!
Love the vid bro!! Now I know where to find and use it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks man!🤙 Yup, it comes in handy!
Thank you very much for this video. It has helped me immensely. I really appreciate it
You’re welcome man!🤙
thak you that was great just a little loder for us old guys keep up the good work
Thanks Roger! 🤙 Will do.
Thanks man. Was worried about getting one of these now I need one.
No problem Sam!🤙 They definitely look cheap, (yes they aren’t perfect), but they get the job done.
Perfect video thank you so much
Thanks Austin!🤙 No problem!
I bought one of those from Auto Zone and works great.
English, French, and Spanish instructions.
Yup, they feel and look cheap but they definitely work.
@@TheMinuteMasters The hand held machines cost a big chunk of money.
@@frankdenardo8684 Yeah they definitely do. I’m glad someone makes this size and price.
Thank you!
Damn thx buddy. Didn’t even know there was a obd1. Auto zone said my 94 van didn’t have codes
No problem man!🤙 Yup, they can read the codes but you can👌
Awesome!
Great information 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙
IMPORTANT: This particular tool is ONLY for Ford products. Innova makes a different model for GM products. They also produce more expensive models with a variety of adapters. Then there are REALLY expensive models that can be used with both OBD I and OBD II vehicles.
Also, the test plug isn't on the drivers side on all vehicles. Explorers, for example, have the plugs located on the passenger side.
Thanks for sharing man!🤙
Thanks for the video!!!
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Bought one of these code readers going to be trying it on my 89 E350 Motorhome today.
Nice!🤙 They come in real handy.
I use this device many years to check my sables)) it's much better than to count bulb flickering))
This is true! The check engine lights don’t help you figure anything out.
Wow OBD2 is so much easier. They got smart and put the plug in the cab.
They sure did!
Alternately you can place test jumper in plug, and read the flashes of the check engine light. All sitting in drivers seat, Really easier than using the scan tool..
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks man!🤙
Perfect. Thank you
You’re welcome Kelly!🤙
great quick vid
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
hey, thx for putting these videos up man! VERY useful...I ran my codes on my 87 5.0L today after changing the plugs/wires...had a miss. the Innova 3145 is reporting 6 cylinders - not 8...I read on the forums where the connector being dirty will do this....just an FYI...
You’re welcome man!🤙
Gotcha. Good to know!
Big help, tank you bro… aloha 💯🔥🤙🏾
No problem man!🤙 thanks for watching!
Great job!
Thanks Bobby!🤙
Great presentation. I would however like to add that there were some ford trucks that had a GVW of 8800 or over, went beyond 1996, that still used the OBD 1 System. Case in point, my 1997 F350 with the 460 engine uses OBD1. It seems that these heavy duty trucks were exempt, up until, I think, somewhere abound 1989.
Good point the 97 years of F250 and F350s were the last of the old body style. I didn’t know they continued to use OBD1 though.
5.8 ( 351W) Also. in some early `1998 HD F 350 cab/chasse OBS.
This is perfect for my 93 Mark VIII!
Thank you. I now know what an OBD1 port looks like. My 1996 Ford E350 ClassC motorhome 7.5L can't read the codes. But it definitely looks like an OBD2 port. My OBD2 reader can't read it. Seems like a common problem with this specific model. It can't communicate. Might be an issue with the port. Fuse was bad, I changed it, that isn't the issue. But at least that fuse is fresh now.
Off to do more research! Your video helped.
Your welcome Tex! If the code reader doesn’t work the first time, I’d try a few more times. It’s a good code reader (for the price) but it does have glitches here and there.
Glad to hear it and thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Unfortunately, the mechanics 10k reader can't read it either. I'm still troubleshooting. He quit because he could not figure it out. I have an Autel OBD2 reader. Neither will link, they get link error codes. The problem is probably in the OBD port. I'm a bit intimidated over messing with that.
@@TexCynRVLife Gotcha. I don’t know if it’s worth diagnosing there port either. It’s probably best you test every part and sensor related to your issue until you find the faulty part.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for your replies! 👍😊
I'll get this figured out.
Just bought a 94 ranger 3.0 v6. Of course it only threw a cel after paying for it. Went straight to work pulling codes the old fashioned way. But the koer part was kicking my ass. Stumbled across this video. Immediately found this scanner at autozone 34 bucks. Already got the koeo 335 code, and the koer 116, 536 and some other code. Obviously a bad coolant sensor and boo switch will toss the cel. Hope to have it ready to smog by next week. Good video. Only took 3 years for me to need it😂
Those codes readers are worth their weight in gold for these trucks!
@@TheMinuteMasters lol...absolutely. the cel only comes and goes. It left long enough to sneak it past smog with a solid pass score
Awesome thank you. My own mechanic said it was nearly impossible to read the codes in my 1995 Mustang. Wrong-O. :D
You’re welcome!🤙
As you observed, even mechanics are wrong unfortunately.
Thank you sir
You’re welcome!🤙
Great video .A couple things to add. For KOEO with a stick shift hold clutch to the floor.I use a broomstick.wedged against the driver seat back.For the KOER you can use your hand to floor the throttle when you see the 10 signal.no need to scurry back inside and use your foot.
You're right the book will explain all this. Earlier style code readers made you sit there and count how many times the CEL flashes to get codes...Real tedious
Thanks man!🤙 Good tip! Yeah I should have thought about just moving the throttle with my hand. But I had to be in the cab for the other two tests with an auto trans.
Oh I know what you mean! Lol I had a 86 Datsun and I had to count the codes like that.
Counting Flashing lights works too after a couple of tries...
Awesome video! I was searching for a video showing how to check for codes and you did a perfect video. Thank you! Now I just need to purchase the tool and manual to read codes and I'm ready. My 1994 Ford F-150, automatic, 5.8, 4x4 just started hard jerking into 2nd and 3rd gear. I'm hoping it will show me a code that will fix the issue. Thank you again!
Thanks man!🤙 Yup, definitely buy the tool and see what codes it detects. Best of luck!
You’re welcome!
Thats what i wanted to see Thanks! sounds like maybe you are low on power steering fluid.
The stock power steering pump whines a lot. I did a conversion to a Saginaw pump and it’s super quiet.
Gonna have to get this scanner. If I remember right, mine you have to count the flashes. This is much easier.
These scanners are definitely good to have. I used to have an old Datsun and I had to count the flashes too.
@@TheMinuteMasters well, i got one sitting in my amazon cart. As well as the extension!
@@briant.4618 Nice!🤙
Thank you for this video!!
I’ve learned a lot.
My 94 Escort is 10 and 111 for the
KOEO so no issue there.
The KOER my code reader isn’t giving me the 4 cylinder # prompt to turn the steering wheel and press on the brake so my code comes back as
536 which is
“BOO circuit not activated during KOER”
Possibly a defective reader?
Thoughts?
Thank you
You're welcome! If I remember correctly, you may not always get a prompt. I would try to run the test again and just time yourself to turn the steering wheel.
Otherwise, you could have a defective reader.
Some fords have ob2 before 1996 the reader plugs right in. I had a 1994 thunderbird that did.
I could see that being the case.
Great video ! I was wondering if you had any ideas for the issue I'm having. I have the tool plugged up correctly and it turns on and the triangle pops up but the square doesn't and it doesn't throw any codes ?
Try it a few times and if you have the same issue, I’d return that code reader and get another one.
I got a 95 with the 300 I love that truck but I gotta fix it or get rid of it. Thanks for the video.
Nice! I think a lot of us find ourselves in that situation. Luckily, these trucks are very fixable.😁🤙
You’re welcome!
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah they are, bought it when I was nineteen, I abused it and fixed it a lot over the years. It’s not really practical anymore but ….
hey awesome video! Just finished replacing both parts on my 95 5.0 xlt. I followed this because i had multiple codes including a 332, plus hard shifting after long periods of driving and i think thats when it threw on the code 332 (check engine light would come on randomly).
Anyways i started up my truck after replacing, and it was a very hard start. had to hold the key for about 5-10s. then it was running good, let it idle for a bit, then drove it for a bit. turned truck off and then started it back up, this time it started right away. then ran the code tester and still came up with some codes, including:
311 - thermactor air system/fault during engine run self test
334 - EGR closed, valve voltage high
225 - knock sensor fault during dynamic response test
212 - loss of ignition diagnostic monitor, signal/spout circuit gorunded
Idk if all of those have to do with replacing it jut thought id mention them. Anyways i havent been able to drive it a long time yet so i really dont know if theres any/big issues, but just thought i could get the convo going of what may be causing those codes. Or if the codes just didnt get erased after the installment? Im not to sure how to do that still new to all of this. I did disconnect the (red) positive battery cable when replacing all of this tho. anyways any thoughts would be appreciated, thx!
P.S. i also recently replaced all vacuum tubing and vacuum reservoir.
The 311 in reference to the thermactor air system sound like a vacuum or sensor induced code. The thermactor valve is the one behind the driver’s side of the intake plenum. It has 2-3 vacuum lines connected to it.
334 - can be caused by a number issues, stuck EGR valve, malfunctioning EGR position sensor, lose of vacuum to the EGR.
225 - could be cause by not hitting the gas doing the test.
212 - is new to me.
My advice is to go and internet search those codes for fixes, especially 311, 225, and 212.
I fixed my 334 with new EGR valve and position sensor.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the swift response! I will look more into these, in the meantime keep making more great content for us un-experienced obs owners 🤣
@@TheMinuteMasters hey just realized I somehow commented this on the wrong video, meant to comment on your EGR valve replacement video🙃
So just to reiterate, I did replace the egr and the sensor with the same parts you linked but I’m now getting the 334, was only getting 332 previously. Could this be that I got the wrong part or it’s faulty? Bought straight from your links in the description.
@@TheMinuteMasters UPDATE: I went ahead and threw the old sensor on, ended up not getting the code 334, but instead 332. So I think it’s the sensor. I must’ve got a faulty one or it’s not the right one. Going to keep the new sensor on for now but I think I’ll contact their support and see if they can help.
@@brodyclark Good idea man!🤙
Great videos man. Quick question. I’ve got a 1995 f150 302 with obd1. It seems like it misfires at idle and it idle surges as well. It’s got a new tps sensor (motorcraft) and some other new bits. I ran the key on engine off test and got code 565 and then after got code 157 which is a Maf code. For some reason never got code 11 at the end after waiting a while but I proceeded. Previous owner replaced the Maf. Ran the engine on test and got code 998 which I’ve heard is limp mode and code 159 after. Another Maf code. Truck doesn’t seem to run any different when I unplug the Maf. Where would you start next? Possible bad computer? I know they are known to go bad. The capacitors that is.
Thanks man!🤙 Idle issues are difficult to pin down unless you know the age of all the ignition parts.
When was the last time spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were replaced?
An easy test for a MAF is to start the truck get it warmed up. Leave it in park and rev the engine. If the MAF is working it should rev up and down just fine. If it stumbles and maybe stalls, the MAF is bad.
@@TheMinuteMasters computer is fine. Previous owner supposedly did all the ignition stuff but at work tomorrow I am going to check the timing. Gonna go over his work as well. Keep up the great work my man🤘🏻
According to the manual I need to do ignition timing after KOEO and before KOER in accordance to the specific service manual of a 1993 and up vehicle. Do you know how I could find such a manual/complete this procedure?
So the manual is saying you need to check your ignition timing? If that’s the case I have a video that shows you how to check your ignition timing with a timing light. Watch that and then check your timing.
I had a question. I have a 91 ford xlt lariat, auto trans. It has overdrive but it’s not a push button overdrive, it’s a gear shift overdrive. Would I skip the overdrive step? Thanks for the great vid!!
Yes, I do believe you skip the overdrive part in that instance.
Any idea if this will help me? 1995 f250, while driving a light will come on for a little bit then go away, never stays for more than a minute or 2, I don’t notice any difference in driving or anything. Wasn’t sure if this will have a way to pick up that code or not? I have no way of predicting when it comes so I wasn’t sure if obd1 stored past codes or anything like that, or if I’ll have to get lucky and it triggers while the scanner is plugged in.
This scanner could help you. It sounds like something is shorting out or becoming unplugged. These scanners are always good to own, so it's worth your while to buy one. I say give the scanner a go.
Awesome video brother. I had a check engine light on my 94 bronco and oreilys said these trucks are old they don't have old ports lol
Thanks man!🤙 Yup, O’Reilly’s can read OBD1 codes.
I thought my 90 ford was too old for that lol autozone lied! Thanks for the vid!
A 1990 EEC will have 2 digit codes. Best of luck!
@@Skitter302 I need alot of luck lol
Well they were partially true. Too old for OBD2 but not for OBD1. No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Hey! Thanks for making a video for this. I am doing this now because my truck will not start. Where can I go to find more information on the codes though? I have gotten the codes and am now trying to figure out what they mean and what needs to be fixed. I am thinking the main code which was 542 is the reason it is not starting because it is for the secondary fuel pump circuit (what that is I am not sure), the other is something about the egr valve not getting enough reading or something. I have tried searching but am getting so many different meaning other than what the book says my code is for, and I cant seem to find what exactly the secondary fuel pump circuit is!
You’re welcome man!🤙
Honestly I just do a Google search to find the answer. I know it may seem like there’s a lot of conflicting information out there but you can typically narrow it down. For the EGR code use this video to diagnose👇
ruclips.net/video/xWpqhdQH01Q/видео.html
For the fuel pump, I would check relays and fuses. Then I’d replace the fuel filter. Replacing the pumps should be your last move.
@@TheMinuteMasters What is really just confusing me now that I have once-overed it, is that both pumps prime just fine when I turn the key, but the truck doesn't start. Ill have to dive deeper tomorrow. Thanks a lot for your reply!!
Will a soon to be replaced transmission cause a check engine light on the truck? I have a 95 F250 7.3
It could depending on what code the old transmission is triggering.
Howdy there! Nice video! You say that this reader can tell you codes that are stored in memory in the OBD1?
My 1994 Ford Ranger keeps acting up, as it has a check engine light that stays on for 30 seconds at most and then turns off. so even if I don't have a check engine light, you think this little device could read the code that made the light come on?
Hi man! Thanks! Yes this code reader can read OBD1 codes.
I think it’s worth reading your codes just to see if the CEL is triggering one.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for replying! 😁
I have a $200 Bosch scanner that has the OBD1 Ford adapter, and every time the light comes on, I've tried to pull over to the side of the road and hook it up, but I'm not fast enough before the check engine light turns off. And when I try to scan it afterwards, all I get is code 111. If this little scan tool can outperform my expensive Bosch tool, I will be stunned... 😲
I just bought that same one but when I connect it for the "key on engine off" I turn on the code reader and I get the little triangle and a solid square. The square doesn't blink at all and I can leave it sit for a few minutes but no code will pop up even though my check engine light is on. Do you happen to know if I'm doing something wrong?
So you plugged the code reader in, turn the truck on (leaving the engine off), turn the code reader on, and then hit the test button? You get the triangle/arrow showing you are connected and you get a square. If you followed those steps on that order and you aren’t getting anything, I would try it a couple of times. These are good code readers but I wouldn’t say they are the best. I ran a couple of tests and the reader said that my truck only had six cylinders when clearly it’s a V-8.
I'm having this same issue! Did you figure it out?
Hi Nice clean video, very helpful. So i got a 565 KOEO, also a 172 c reading...how did you fix the 565 (purge canister solenoid circuit)? I replaced the solenoid (which i later tested and it opened okay w/ a 6 v battery), then replaced the heated oxygen sensor then retested and got the same codes. Since the wires connect to harnesses and all look undamaged, how do you either test the circuit from the PCM computer to the sensor/solenoid??
PS the book said don't fix the c test code until you pass the first KOEO test. Also, the book doesn't explain what the c test is really testing or doing. Thank you sincerely, randy c
Hi Randy, I’m not sure how I fix the 565 code. And I know in this video, I said, I got a clean read from the code reader. However, I have no explanation for how I got rid of that code, and to be honest, I don’t think it causes any issues.
Somewhere in the comments, somebody said, Ford eliminated some engine function that required that solenoid purge valve, but never eliminated the valve. So it will always throw the code.
Hi Thank you for the reply. Onto changing plugs and wires and dist. cap. And Motorcraft platinum plugs. By the way, what do you think would be the best repair manual specific to '95 f150 5.0l 4x4--can't tell if it has a/c or not, the compressor looks like an air pump, no clutch just a pully wheel, can't find pressure ports---but there is a cold air knob inside! Randy c
@@tacoma1309 Hi Randy, I’ve been a long time user of Haynes manuals which are pretty easy to find at any auto parts stores.
@@TheMinuteMasters Hi Minute Masters: Thanks for letting me know and by the way, with all my testing, i think i must have scared the computer a little because the check engine light (CEL?) hasn't come back on! randy c
@@tacoma1309 hahahaha! That’s good!
I got my Innovo Ford code reader in today along with the extension cable. Plugged the extension cable into the code reader and something just didn't feel right. Pulled the extension cable off the reader and noticed that the those broad, flat pins on the code reader had been pushed into the body. Now I'm a 78 year old former electronics tech so I know I didn't "muscle" the two together. I don't know if the female connectors on the cable were too tight or if the male pins on the reader body just weren't secured properly. They were pretty loose when I pulled them out with some needle-nose pliers. If the code reader body had been screwed together then I could have disassembled it and repaired the pins. But, it was glued together so back it went to Amazon. Someone mentioned an Actron 9690 code reader. I'll have to give that one a try. I'm afraid to reorder that Innovo Ford code reader. The next one might be as bad as the first one I got.
Good move. The Innovobis cheap both in price and build quality. It does the trick when it works. I haven’t used any other brand but Actron is an industry name. So you may get a better quality code reader.
doing diagnostics on a 97 F450 (yes OBD1) 460 i have. Engine runs but only if i hit it with ether, once it kicks it runs but when cranking is showing no injector pulse, has 12V to injectors, 40+psi fuel and ample spark while cranking just no inj pulse but once started inj pulses fine. How would i do run test since it will not start without help? Great video, its good to know people still have interest in preserving these 'ol things 😄
That’s interesting that the injectors won’t pulse. Almost sounds like an ECM issue.
So you can’t get the truck started at all? Once it’s running, you should be able to do the run KOEO test.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, im kind of suspecting the ECM as well but eliminating ancillary stuff first. Yeah its weird and its a new one on me. I can put a noid light on an injector and see it cycling when its running then as soon as i shut it off and try to restart its no pulse. Hit it with ether she fires right up and injectors come instantly back up. Ive owned dozens of 90's vintage Broncos with the same systems and never had this prob. Thanks for the reply
Hey man, great video. I'm fair new to trying to fix up an old family truck. I've got a 93 XLT 5.0 and I recently started having an issue where the truck starts by immediately stalls. It's not a daily driver so it has been sitting to be tinkered with. I noticed the other day that an IAC bolt was a little loose so I tightened it and then since then I've had the issue. I removed the IAC and cleaned it/added a new gasket, it started and ran a few minutes with a normal-ish idle and then a day later it's back to the same thing. Just curious if you had any ideas on this issue. Thanks
Hi Grant! Thanks! I appreciate it!🤙 have you read the codes on your truck? That’s not a bad place to start.
Otherwise when you have starting issues I typically go through the triangle of combustion. Air, Fuel, Spark.
Unfortunately you can only check most of the air components using a code reader because it’s mostly sensors. However, you can definitely check your filter to make sure it’s clean and if you have speed density look for the sensor and make sure that’s clean as well.
@@TheMinuteMasters So I've got the innova code reader and ran the KOEO test. Got codes 23 and 53 which are both related to TPS if I'm not mistaken. One being "high voltage" and the other "voltage out of range" I unplugged the TPS and it ran with an odd idle but it ran until I turned it off. Do you think with those 2 codes that new TPS would fix the issue? thanks man!
@@grantsmith6945 That’s a good question Grant. A new TPS could fix that code. Honestly, you won’t know until you try it. It’s a cheap part too.
check the onboard computer
I’m very confused. When i go to do the Engine On Test my reader says “6 cyl” but i have a 351w. Originally a 302 but it was swapped by previous owner. I also can’t even do the test properly because my overdrive button doesn’t compress. Any ideas on either issue or why it says 6cyl?
So that happened to me. I had to unplug turn my truck off and then restart the whole process to get my reader to show 8 cylinders.
I have an intermittent problem with a 1995 4.9L manual. Every now and then, the truck will shudder, CEL will come on, and I will completely lose throttle response. Pedal to the floor, nothing. The truck begins coasting as if it's in neutral. Eventually it will slow down to the point that I'm almost stopped and the truck will shut off by itself. Sometimes it just shudders for a split second and then goes back to normal, but normally that's a sign that it's eventually going to shut itself down. Once the truck comes to a stop, it often will not start again, at least not immediately. It will crank and crank but no ignition. After cranking it every 30 seconds or so for a few minutes, it will fire back up like nothing happened. When the truck starts back up, the check engine light is off.
I have a few questions. First, I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere (a/c defaults to defrost under acceleration, then comes back under light/no throttle). Could that possibly be related? Second, does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? And third, since the code disappears when the truck starts back up, do these trucks store codes that I would be able to read even if I'm not actively experiencing the problem, or would I have to just carry the scanner, and plug it in as soon as the truck shuts down?
Interesting problem man. A don’t think a vacuum leak would cause this bad of an issue. However, you definitely want to fix the vacuum line connected to the blend door actuator. (Passenger side of engine bay near fire wall).
Before we jump down my usual rabbit hole of diagnosing steps, I would buy a code reader and read the codes on your truck. Fault codes are stored in the ECM. So you don’t have to plug the code reader in as the problem is happening to get the code. Start there and then update me on what you find.🤙
Very well explained, can you help me with the overdrive light it turns on when it is running
Does the overdrive flash when your truck is on or is the code reader getting an Overdrive error code?
@@TheMinuteMasters it flashes on and off while driving
@@creacionese.o1475 Interesting. My light only flashed at me when my OD band burnt out one time. Are you getting an error codes?
Maybe a dumb question. But would this hook up to a 89 Chevy K1500 I have a 12 prong not a 16
Good question! This particular code reader lists all the different males and models it connects too. I don’t recall seeing Chevy in the list. But I wasn’t looking for Chevy specifically.
Hey does your code 565 make your truck sluggish I have the same code that just came on and trying to fix it
You know I have no idea if that code makes my truck sluggish. I know there are some days my truck is sluggish and some days it’s not. I think it could be weather related as well. I have not figured out how to get rid of 565.
Hey so I bought an 95 f150 5.0 manual and did the test with your scanner. I got two codes: (engine off test) 512, and (engine on test) 412. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be and how I can fix it ?
What does the code reader book say about those codes? They usual have a name or brief explanation.
Great video demonstration, I just picked one up for my 87 f150 XLT lariat super cab. I don't have an overdrive like you. Do you know if that part is skipped, when doing that engine running test. Would you happen to know where I could pick up that cover cap for the EEC Test point. Mine is missing and its just hanging there uncovered. I had a 95 same color as yours all my friends called it Barney, miss that truck, thanks for your help
Thanks man!🤙 If you don’t have overdrive you can skip that step. As for the EEC test point cover, you may need to go to a junk yard. I don’t think anyone remakes them.
Yup, when I first bought my truck, my friends called it Barney too! Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you for getting back to me, you make some good Videos
@@nickpanhead7209 You’re welcome! I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Steve, I did my running test on my 87 f150 5.0 but the first thing that came up top left code was CYL 6 shouldn't that be an 8 since it is a 8 cylinder. Then codes came up 45. 33. 25. While doing run test. Engine off test I came up with codes 21. 24. Then 10 and I guess a stored code of 33 I think I'm F....d lol
@@nickpanhead7209 Ok you’ll be just fine. I think these readers aren’t the best. Mine read my truck twice that it was a 6 cylinders and not 8. Definitely go back and clear an saved codes. Also look up those three codes. They could be nothing substantial or be The result of missing a step in the test. Either way it’s worth doing a retest.
Hey man! My light comes on & goes off after a minute, I’m having lack of power when going up hills now. Would this tell me about my issue ?
What light goes off and on?
If you are having any electrical or sensor issues, this will typically find them. I’d go for it.
If your truck still seems sluggish up hills I would start looking at things like a fuel pump, fuel filter, and ignition components.
How do you reset the light? Do you disconnect the negative terminal or pull a fuse? I have a OBD1 for my 86 f150
Which light? You don’t need to disconnect any battery terminals or pull any fuses. This code reader simply plugs into the OBD1 port and its ready to do its thing.
If you want to clear the codes pull the negative battery cable and let it sit for a few minutes
Wondering, will this will work on a 1994 Ford 7.5L 460 in my 34' Four Winds RV?
It might be worth trying🤷♂️
Quick question..
I for years have diagnosed these trucks by the ole "Ear-o-Matic 5000XL" aka My Ears.
I recently got the innova scanner. I followed your directions to a T. I keep getting code 13 and 72. One is for operator error. Im wondering if im doing the test wrong. I also have codes 31 and 32 for the EVP I believe. Truck has a erradic idle, the only symptom is a slight shake at idle when watching the manifold i can see its shaking.. Cant tell a difference in engine speed (no tach). Ive made sure my TPS is withing spec, iac circuit is working, throttle plate is clean, map sensor working correctly (checked with vaccum guage and a spectrum scope ) spark plugs not fouled, new wires and cap, new coil, air filter is new only has 6k on it. Oil is always changed at 2500-3000 mile intervals with the filter. EGR seems to work, hold vaccum at least. The vaccum line from the egr to the EGR solenoid is solid. The truck has a new EGR solenoid. Any tips?
Before I had one of these scanners I was the same way. I have a mild shake at idle too. My 95 doesn’t have a tach so I can’t tell if these is a change in RPM but I don’t think so.
It sounds like to me, you’ve checked everything. I know for my truck I’m thinking of cleaning the IAC valve and possibly replacing it. The benefit of these scanners is it will find an electric issues, but I’m skeptical if it can find mechanical issues. Hence, why I want to clean the IAC.
Are all of your vacuum lines new? Sometimes new vacuum lines help.
Otherwise, I would keep following your gut and go through a part by part check. One part/parts, that could cause a slight issue would be fuel injectors. Electrically they could be sound but mechanical the spray tip could be fouled a bit.
@@TheMinuteMasters i bought a stethescope and tomorrow while im rebuilding the front end, ill check each injector to see if the solenoids are firing in each. Im thinking one may be stuck open (which would explain the heavy smell of unburnt fuel) and if its stuck open, perhaps it could be too rich at idle to properly burn causing a imbalence in the engine (not a misfire but less power in that piston) which im assuming may cause a shake or imbalence.
@@UserName-ln5ol That’s a good idea and definitely worth a try. Whenever I have issues to always go back to the engine triangle air, fuel, and spark. Fuel typically gets passed over in favor of the other two of the trifecta. Dry injectors can also cause issues too.
@@TheMinuteMasters i stethescoped the injectors, they all work. It seems like the idle got better after i drained the oil(which had lucas in it) and replaced it with 10-30. Guess that snake oil isnt always good.
I also checked pressure at the fuel rail at idle and with key on engine off, both fell into spec.
Hello. I know it's been a few months since your last response but I hope you see my question. I bought this scanner to diagnose a crank no start on my '93 F150 5.8L auto 4X4. As others, I get the triangle and square but no codes. I've tried it several times. Could I have a bad computer?
Hi Jose! So I would start the code reading process again and see if you get the same problem. If you get the triangle and square but no codes. I believe there is a trouble shooting guide in the code scanner manual.
Your truck is a crank but no start. Have you checked to make sure you are getting air, fuel, and spark?
@@TheMinuteMasters Air and spark yes. It starts with starter fluid but only for 2-3 seconds. I'll try it again later today. Thanks for your quick reply.
@@joseluisrodriguez7257 I would chase down the fuel aspect. The easiest thing to fix/replace is the fuel filter. Then I would replace a fuel pump, and go from there.
No problem man!🤙
Hello, one question when you press the hold or test button does any led light turn on , on the tester because i dont know if my tester has something wrong because o dont get any icon logo light or something only the 00 screen, thanks
As I tell everyone, this code reader is good but not perfect. Try running the test again and see if it works properly.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks!!
Thank you. Bu as usual I'm confused. If you got a 565 code, then how can you say you passed the test when you got the 111 indicator? Doesn't the 565 indicate a problem with the sensor you remarked upon?
If I remember correctly, code 565 only shows up in one of the tests (engine on or engine off). So I get a 111 after the one that doesn’t through the code.
@@TheMinuteMasters dd
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks. You did a key on engine off test. There was a trouble code. 565. The key on engine off test continued. You got a 111 which means "you passed the test, there are not codes". But there was a code. 565. So that's what's confusing to me. Of course, I'm the only one who is confused. But this is very common. I pay very close attention, and if something doesn't make sense, I question it. Thanks for your video.
@@marshall2 Good eye Pat! I’ll have to go back and run the test and see if I get a code 565 then.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1996 F150 with the ABS light on and it has an OBD2 port but no code. Is there a way for me to know what the issue might be? Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
No problem JR!
ABS light is no surprise brake related. The easiest fix is to check your fluid level. Low fluid can trigger the sensor and the light will turn on. Sometimes that sensor goes bad. Sometimes the ABS sensor on one of the axles can go bad as well.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for your reply, I will check on that sensor and see if that helps with the OBS light, another issue I noticed is that whenever I come to a stop, my truck tries to turn off as if the my idle was too low. Do you think is related? Thanks again
@@jrorellana4865 My gut tells me the brakes aren’t related to your stalling issues. Stalling is usually sensor related and it’s related to your air management. So MAF, IAC valve, etc. that’s where the code reader helps. sometimes a transmission can cause stalling issues too.
I only want to do the second part of the test, I don’t care about the first part, but it’s not passing the first part. The previous owner put a crazy emission setup on it so it’s not going to pass. Is there any way to bypass this?
That’s weird! I’ve heard of some vehicles having issues like that. Luckily the first test is actually pretty quick.
No experience here. Are OBD 1 codes the same from car to car? Like for example a 94’ Toyota VS a domestic from similar timeframe?
I think they are different in the OBD1 era. This reader is Ford, Lincoln, & Mercury specific.
My1997 f250 has ob1 but whenever I look up parts for a 97 it comes up as the newer body styles so I always gotta do 96 or 95 models could this be a error from the factory or something else
It’s probably because the vast majority of parts companies forgot that Ford changes the body style of they f250s a year after the f150.
@@TheMinuteMasters ah makes sense by the way thank you for creating this channel saw you on TikTok then realized you have a RUclips channel I’ve watched maybe 10 videos and now I know how to fix 60% of the problems on my truck thank you
Even though I own a 1996 F 150 it still has ODB1 as it was built in 10/85, well before the cutoff date of 1/1/1996.
Sounds about right. I’ve heard guys that have been on the other end of 96 and got an OBD2 system.
Can you reset the codes by disconnecting the battery for a certain amount of time?
Not sure. My guess is no but I haven’t verified that.
Hey there bro I also got a dream truck 1992 ford 150 5.0 and it has a check engine light keeps coming up and it keeps turning off would u think this would fix my problem instead of paying this local shop 150 to get the code scan because there the only shop that has it. Thank you in advance.
Nice man!😘 Welcome to the OBS club! Yes, definitely buy one of these code readers. They are cheap and it will help you get to know your truck more.
Grest video! I've followed your video steo by step and read the book instructions. Still can't get any codes. It Does not display 11 indicating no codes. Once i push test button, i hear the engine/computer doing its thing but nothing ever pops up. Only reads 000. Any ideas? Faulty code reader? Might return it and try another one.
Thanks man!🤙 These code readers can have issues sometimes. I always recommend unplugging the code reader, plugging it in again, and restarting the test. If you continue to have issues, return that particular code reader and buy another one.
Will do. Thsnk you man!!
What if everything checks out but while I’m driving my check engine light pops on and off. The only thing that the truck doesn’t have is a cat it got stolen think that’s the problem?
A missing CAT can cause issues of there’s an O2 sensor down stream of the CAT.
Where did you get your door panels? I think they looked new I am looking around
Those are the original door panels. I just tried to keep mine as clean as possible. The only way to get decent door panels is to either find them from the junkyard or have OBS Solutions restore yours.
In my 93 ranger I tried the same thing but my code reader wouldn’t turn on, what could be the problem?
I would try plugging it in and trying it multiple times. If it still doesn’t work, then I would return that code reader, and buy another.
Do they check to see if there’s any injector issues? As in will it tell u if one is not working properly?
I think so but I’ve never had that code.
Could i use this for my 1995 caprice classic 5.7L ?
I think this scanner is for Fords but this same company probably makes one for Chevy.
I have a 96 F 250 with OBD 1, will this work for that or is it only up to 95? TIA
Yup! It should work!🤙
I start he test, both ways. But once I press test, nothing happens with the engine on or engine off test. I see the arrow, but it stays all zeros. Can you help me out please.
In general, if you have issues using this code reader, I advise people to try to repeat the tests. If the follow up tests also fail, then I would return the reader and get another one.
@TheMinuteMasters Will do, thanks a lot. I really appreciate your videos. With my 1994 Ford F-150 it's not easy finding videos to learn from lol
I got the same tester for my 94 f150 works good stay away from those obd1 to obd2 adapters you can get on eBay are Amazon they do not work they click on and off and never read and the whole time your fuel pump is wide open pumping gas
I’ve actually never seen one of those adapters. So I’ll definitely stay away from them. Thanks for letting me know man!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters also on the obd1 scanner after you read the codes with the engine running you push your gas pedal just about half way and let up and it puts the pcm into a cyinder balance test it checks your fuel injectors and compression on your engine if you get a code 90 at the end of the test it passed and all your cylinders are contributing ok and your compression is fine any number other then 90 is bad
@@christopherdarrough2667 That’s cool! I’ll have to try that. Thanks man!🤙
will this help diagnose a flashing overdrive off light?
It definitely will!🤙
Hey man I know this video isn’t about this but I’m look at an old 91’ ranger xlt and I’m trying to find ways to see if the miles have been rolled back. Do you know any methods to check the miles being rolled?
That’s a good question! The easiest way is to compare paperwork. Tiles, inspection reports, bills of sale, Car fax, etc. If the odometer is not consistent with the paperwork, then something is off.
What makes you think the odometer has been rolled back?
@@TheMinuteMasters k thank you!! It apparently only has about 60,300 miles on and it but it looks like perfect condition, but with a little top rust by the wheel wells
@@zachstrobel No problem man!🤙 interesting. I mean that seems about right for 60,000 miles. Honestly mileage aside I will just go through the entire truck with a fine tooth comb. If everything else is in really good condition who could care about the mileage. I would do a compression check because if it is a high mileage vehicle you should see a difference. But at 60,000 miles, the compressions should still be really good.
@@TheMinuteMasters K thank you a lot!! I’ve been trying to find more and more ways to find out if there’s been a set back or not, and I’ll definitely go looking close at everything. Thank you a ton again!!!
There is no EEC test box in that location on my 95 F150, is there any other locations it could be?
I would check all around your firewall and fenders. Then try under the dash.
I've had this brand OBD-1 for a few years now, it use to give me 2 digit codes and now since I've replaced the PCM (91 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0) it's shooting out weird 3 digit codes...so is my reader faulty or what ?? The truck is running excellent with the new PCM and I'm not going to replace it. Any answers will be greatly appreciated, also I'm subscribing to your channel.........Thanks, TJ
Hey TJ! That’s new to me. I know OBD2 uses 3 digit codes. The 111 is the all clear 3 digit code this reader issues for OBD1. If everything is running well, then I would pay attention to the codes reader. However, I would try looking up the codes and see what they mean.
Nice! Thanks TJ🤙 I appreciate it!
@@TheMinuteMasters Yea, it's kinda weird, until the PCM change it read the correct 2 digit codes now 3 digit codes but since the engine is running great I'm not tampering with anything. I've asked others and they replied pretty much the same as you and the booklet says nothing about it either so I'm thinking it maybe it's computer (PCM) related ??....BIG thanks for replying back !!
@@t.j.h2810 Yeah totally a weird thing TJ. To me if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Lol 🤙 You’re welcome!
Hey I hope you see this, How do I do this in a 4 speed with over drive manual 90’ f150? Like if I put it in over drive I have to hold the clutch in and what not
So are you asking? How do you perform the rpm throttle tests in a manual truck?
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah
@@lccshighlights518 Good question. I think you push in the clutch and peg the gas. That should do the same thing as hitting the gas while parked (with an auto transmission).