Thanks you just got a 1995 f-350 and was running rough and stalling and turning off got the scanner to troubleshoot it but found it was the PCM found out the previous owner replaced the original PCM for a 5.8 with a PCm for a 460 motor lol
I don't thank you often enough for these videos. Last year I acquired a '96 4wd with the 300 I6 that needs a lot of work. Stupid as it sounds, it's kind of my dream truck. And your instructions make it a cost-effective restoration, where subbing out all the labor would probably bankrupt me. Thank you!
You are most welcome man!🤙 I’m glad I can help you fix up your dream truck (which is definitely not stupid). My childhood dream vehicle was a purple pick up truck. Now, I drive one and make videos about it!🤙
I own the obd1 code reader for Ford, Lincoln, Mercury. I just plug it into the test port under the hood of my 1992 Ford Tempo. It gives me a code number. I look up the code number in the thick book that came with the code reader and it said "cylinder 1 misfire." I bought mine at Walmart back in the day, but I still see them on ebay for $40. You had to buy separate obd1 code readers for each brand of vehicle you owned. I looked at reviews of the adapter cable that connects your obd1 port to your new obd2 code reader and tons of people in the comments said that they wasted money, because their's don't work.
It’s all about experience, and if someone doesn’t understand how to, using an adapter to read from a OBD11 Diagnostic Device, very much depending on the Make and Model of the Device, I’ve Witnessed a Mechanic Burn up his $800 Device! A jumper Wire Is a lot cheaper!!!
I bought this code reader year ago. Sadly, it sat in my drawer for a year because I thought it wouldn't work on my truck because it's a 96. The code readers box said it stopped at 95. I would count the blinks, go crazy, think I missed blinks lol. then one day I found the reader while moving. opened it and it worked. thanks for your video. im not a reader haha.
Concerning the ODB1, you are spot on and made it look toooooo easy. Frankly never before had I used a reader and I had to read the instructions numerous times before completely understanding the process and procedure. Your video just completely tied up the loose ends for me. Thank you. ONE THING When I first hooked the reader up and plugged in I received no indication it was connected. Well come to discover the pins on the reader (two of them) had recessed into the reader itself and were only pultruding out of the reader say 1/8 of an inch. So be aware the quality of this reader has some issues. I place a drop of quick drying glue on the base of the finger and that did it for me.
Alternately you can place test jumper in plug, and read the flashes of the check engine light. All sitting in drivers seat, Really easier than using the scan tool..
Really good instructions, thank you! I've never used on before, not I don't feel so intimidated. I'm picking up a used truck, and want to make sure it has no major problems.
Thanks man!🤙 Hahaha! I’ve actually thought of that as a potential business venture. So many of us DIY mechanic would love a place to rent a lift and tools and have a place to work on our vehicles.
IMPORTANT: This particular tool is ONLY for Ford products. Innova makes a different model for GM products. They also produce more expensive models with a variety of adapters. Then there are REALLY expensive models that can be used with both OBD I and OBD II vehicles. Also, the test plug isn't on the drivers side on all vehicles. Explorers, for example, have the plugs located on the passenger side.
THANKS! I used mine to find that the TPS was bad with the key ON test but was wary about how to do the engine ON test. Now I know! '94 F-150 5.0 XLT - 132K miles.
Just bought a 94 ranger 3.0 v6. Of course it only threw a cel after paying for it. Went straight to work pulling codes the old fashioned way. But the koer part was kicking my ass. Stumbled across this video. Immediately found this scanner at autozone 34 bucks. Already got the koeo 335 code, and the koer 116, 536 and some other code. Obviously a bad coolant sensor and boo switch will toss the cel. Hope to have it ready to smog by next week. Good video. Only took 3 years for me to need it😂
Great presentation. I would however like to add that there were some ford trucks that had a GVW of 8800 or over, went beyond 1996, that still used the OBD 1 System. Case in point, my 1997 F350 with the 460 engine uses OBD1. It seems that these heavy duty trucks were exempt, up until, I think, somewhere abound 1989.
Great video .A couple things to add. For KOEO with a stick shift hold clutch to the floor.I use a broomstick.wedged against the driver seat back.For the KOER you can use your hand to floor the throttle when you see the 10 signal.no need to scurry back inside and use your foot. You're right the book will explain all this. Earlier style code readers made you sit there and count how many times the CEL flashes to get codes...Real tedious
Thanks man!🤙 Good tip! Yeah I should have thought about just moving the throttle with my hand. But I had to be in the cab for the other two tests with an auto trans. Oh I know what you mean! Lol I had a 86 Datsun and I had to count the codes like that.
Thank you. I now know what an OBD1 port looks like. My 1996 Ford E350 ClassC motorhome 7.5L can't read the codes. But it definitely looks like an OBD2 port. My OBD2 reader can't read it. Seems like a common problem with this specific model. It can't communicate. Might be an issue with the port. Fuse was bad, I changed it, that isn't the issue. But at least that fuse is fresh now. Off to do more research! Your video helped.
Your welcome Tex! If the code reader doesn’t work the first time, I’d try a few more times. It’s a good code reader (for the price) but it does have glitches here and there. Glad to hear it and thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Unfortunately, the mechanics 10k reader can't read it either. I'm still troubleshooting. He quit because he could not figure it out. I have an Autel OBD2 reader. Neither will link, they get link error codes. The problem is probably in the OBD port. I'm a bit intimidated over messing with that.
@@TexCynRVLife Gotcha. I don’t know if it’s worth diagnosing there port either. It’s probably best you test every part and sensor related to your issue until you find the faulty part.
hey, thx for putting these videos up man! VERY useful...I ran my codes on my 87 5.0L today after changing the plugs/wires...had a miss. the Innova 3145 is reporting 6 cylinders - not 8...I read on the forums where the connector being dirty will do this....just an FYI...
Hi Nice clean video, very helpful. So i got a 565 KOEO, also a 172 c reading...how did you fix the 565 (purge canister solenoid circuit)? I replaced the solenoid (which i later tested and it opened okay w/ a 6 v battery), then replaced the heated oxygen sensor then retested and got the same codes. Since the wires connect to harnesses and all look undamaged, how do you either test the circuit from the PCM computer to the sensor/solenoid?? PS the book said don't fix the c test code until you pass the first KOEO test. Also, the book doesn't explain what the c test is really testing or doing. Thank you sincerely, randy c
Hi Randy, I’m not sure how I fix the 565 code. And I know in this video, I said, I got a clean read from the code reader. However, I have no explanation for how I got rid of that code, and to be honest, I don’t think it causes any issues. Somewhere in the comments, somebody said, Ford eliminated some engine function that required that solenoid purge valve, but never eliminated the valve. So it will always throw the code.
Hi Thank you for the reply. Onto changing plugs and wires and dist. cap. And Motorcraft platinum plugs. By the way, what do you think would be the best repair manual specific to '95 f150 5.0l 4x4--can't tell if it has a/c or not, the compressor looks like an air pump, no clutch just a pully wheel, can't find pressure ports---but there is a cold air knob inside! Randy c
@@TheMinuteMasters Hi Minute Masters: Thanks for letting me know and by the way, with all my testing, i think i must have scared the computer a little because the check engine light (CEL?) hasn't come back on! randy c
hey awesome video! Just finished replacing both parts on my 95 5.0 xlt. I followed this because i had multiple codes including a 332, plus hard shifting after long periods of driving and i think thats when it threw on the code 332 (check engine light would come on randomly). Anyways i started up my truck after replacing, and it was a very hard start. had to hold the key for about 5-10s. then it was running good, let it idle for a bit, then drove it for a bit. turned truck off and then started it back up, this time it started right away. then ran the code tester and still came up with some codes, including: 311 - thermactor air system/fault during engine run self test 334 - EGR closed, valve voltage high 225 - knock sensor fault during dynamic response test 212 - loss of ignition diagnostic monitor, signal/spout circuit gorunded Idk if all of those have to do with replacing it jut thought id mention them. Anyways i havent been able to drive it a long time yet so i really dont know if theres any/big issues, but just thought i could get the convo going of what may be causing those codes. Or if the codes just didnt get erased after the installment? Im not to sure how to do that still new to all of this. I did disconnect the (red) positive battery cable when replacing all of this tho. anyways any thoughts would be appreciated, thx! P.S. i also recently replaced all vacuum tubing and vacuum reservoir.
The 311 in reference to the thermactor air system sound like a vacuum or sensor induced code. The thermactor valve is the one behind the driver’s side of the intake plenum. It has 2-3 vacuum lines connected to it. 334 - can be caused by a number issues, stuck EGR valve, malfunctioning EGR position sensor, lose of vacuum to the EGR. 225 - could be cause by not hitting the gas doing the test. 212 - is new to me. My advice is to go and internet search those codes for fixes, especially 311, 225, and 212. I fixed my 334 with new EGR valve and position sensor.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the swift response! I will look more into these, in the meantime keep making more great content for us un-experienced obs owners 🤣
@@TheMinuteMasters hey just realized I somehow commented this on the wrong video, meant to comment on your EGR valve replacement video🙃 So just to reiterate, I did replace the egr and the sensor with the same parts you linked but I’m now getting the 334, was only getting 332 previously. Could this be that I got the wrong part or it’s faulty? Bought straight from your links in the description.
@@TheMinuteMasters UPDATE: I went ahead and threw the old sensor on, ended up not getting the code 334, but instead 332. So I think it’s the sensor. I must’ve got a faulty one or it’s not the right one. Going to keep the new sensor on for now but I think I’ll contact their support and see if they can help.
I got my Innovo Ford code reader in today along with the extension cable. Plugged the extension cable into the code reader and something just didn't feel right. Pulled the extension cable off the reader and noticed that the those broad, flat pins on the code reader had been pushed into the body. Now I'm a 78 year old former electronics tech so I know I didn't "muscle" the two together. I don't know if the female connectors on the cable were too tight or if the male pins on the reader body just weren't secured properly. They were pretty loose when I pulled them out with some needle-nose pliers. If the code reader body had been screwed together then I could have disassembled it and repaired the pins. But, it was glued together so back it went to Amazon. Someone mentioned an Actron 9690 code reader. I'll have to give that one a try. I'm afraid to reorder that Innovo Ford code reader. The next one might be as bad as the first one I got.
Good move. The Innovobis cheap both in price and build quality. It does the trick when it works. I haven’t used any other brand but Actron is an industry name. So you may get a better quality code reader.
Great videos man. Quick question. I’ve got a 1995 f150 302 with obd1. It seems like it misfires at idle and it idle surges as well. It’s got a new tps sensor (motorcraft) and some other new bits. I ran the key on engine off test and got code 565 and then after got code 157 which is a Maf code. For some reason never got code 11 at the end after waiting a while but I proceeded. Previous owner replaced the Maf. Ran the engine on test and got code 998 which I’ve heard is limp mode and code 159 after. Another Maf code. Truck doesn’t seem to run any different when I unplug the Maf. Where would you start next? Possible bad computer? I know they are known to go bad. The capacitors that is.
Thanks man!🤙 Idle issues are difficult to pin down unless you know the age of all the ignition parts. When was the last time spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were replaced? An easy test for a MAF is to start the truck get it warmed up. Leave it in park and rev the engine. If the MAF is working it should rev up and down just fine. If it stumbles and maybe stalls, the MAF is bad.
@@TheMinuteMasters computer is fine. Previous owner supposedly did all the ignition stuff but at work tomorrow I am going to check the timing. Gonna go over his work as well. Keep up the great work my man🤘🏻
Love this. I have a 92 inline 6. Just replaced computer but she is bucking when I drive it. Reading and watching post and replaced every sensor I can think of and still not better. I did get code for egr and replaced sensor and nothing g. I can’t remove the egr to replace so not sure if that’s. Always something
I’m not sure if a bad EGR valve would cause fucking but I think it’s definitely worth going through all the various diagnostics checks just to see where your issue is. Fuel pressure Ignition timing Test vacuum I know sometimes new computers can cause issues but your new computer could be correct and your truck has been tuned to the old one.
@ thanks will check those issues out. Thanks for teaching me how to use code reader. Made it easy. It gave me codes 213 and 334. 213 I’m stumped. Have to do more research. 334 says egr. So purchased the sensor. And egr. But can’t loosen the nut. More projects. Thanks
@ thanks. Long week Thanksgiving. Have off. I will go for it. Have parts will see if that is the issue. Will keep you posted. Thanks for replying. I appreciate it.
Great video ! I was wondering if you had any ideas for the issue I'm having. I have the tool plugged up correctly and it turns on and the triangle pops up but the square doesn't and it doesn't throw any codes ?
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah they are, bought it when I was nineteen, I abused it and fixed it a lot over the years. It’s not really practical anymore but ….
doing diagnostics on a 97 F450 (yes OBD1) 460 i have. Engine runs but only if i hit it with ether, once it kicks it runs but when cranking is showing no injector pulse, has 12V to injectors, 40+psi fuel and ample spark while cranking just no inj pulse but once started inj pulses fine. How would i do run test since it will not start without help? Great video, its good to know people still have interest in preserving these 'ol things 😄
That’s interesting that the injectors won’t pulse. Almost sounds like an ECM issue. So you can’t get the truck started at all? Once it’s running, you should be able to do the run KOEO test.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, im kind of suspecting the ECM as well but eliminating ancillary stuff first. Yeah its weird and its a new one on me. I can put a noid light on an injector and see it cycling when its running then as soon as i shut it off and try to restart its no pulse. Hit it with ether she fires right up and injectors come instantly back up. Ive owned dozens of 90's vintage Broncos with the same systems and never had this prob. Thanks for the reply
Chevy obd1 diagnostic is hands down easier. A paper clip is all you need. Maybe you can with this also. Tuning the eprom and getting to the ecm on GM is a much better deal.
Thank you. Bu as usual I'm confused. If you got a 565 code, then how can you say you passed the test when you got the 111 indicator? Doesn't the 565 indicate a problem with the sensor you remarked upon?
If I remember correctly, code 565 only shows up in one of the tests (engine on or engine off). So I get a 111 after the one that doesn’t through the code.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks. You did a key on engine off test. There was a trouble code. 565. The key on engine off test continued. You got a 111 which means "you passed the test, there are not codes". But there was a code. 565. So that's what's confusing to me. Of course, I'm the only one who is confused. But this is very common. I pay very close attention, and if something doesn't make sense, I question it. Thanks for your video.
Hey! Thanks for making a video for this. I am doing this now because my truck will not start. Where can I go to find more information on the codes though? I have gotten the codes and am now trying to figure out what they mean and what needs to be fixed. I am thinking the main code which was 542 is the reason it is not starting because it is for the secondary fuel pump circuit (what that is I am not sure), the other is something about the egr valve not getting enough reading or something. I have tried searching but am getting so many different meaning other than what the book says my code is for, and I cant seem to find what exactly the secondary fuel pump circuit is!
You’re welcome man!🤙 Honestly I just do a Google search to find the answer. I know it may seem like there’s a lot of conflicting information out there but you can typically narrow it down. For the EGR code use this video to diagnose👇 ruclips.net/video/xWpqhdQH01Q/видео.html For the fuel pump, I would check relays and fuses. Then I’d replace the fuel filter. Replacing the pumps should be your last move.
@@TheMinuteMasters What is really just confusing me now that I have once-overed it, is that both pumps prime just fine when I turn the key, but the truck doesn't start. Ill have to dive deeper tomorrow. Thanks a lot for your reply!!
Stevie and idea why I can read the codes with the engine off but when engine is running the code reader does nothing? The 1st code reader is got broke apart but summit racing sent me another one but both readers didn't read codes with engine running
Weird. Well you did the correct thing by sending the first one back. I would try it a couple of times. These code readers are cheap and they can be spotty. Unfortunately they are the only reasonable option for most hobbyists.
I had a question. I have a 91 ford xlt lariat, auto trans. It has overdrive but it’s not a push button overdrive, it’s a gear shift overdrive. Would I skip the overdrive step? Thanks for the great vid!!
Thank you for this video!! I’ve learned a lot. My 94 Escort is 10 and 111 for the KOEO so no issue there. The KOER my code reader isn’t giving me the 4 cylinder # prompt to turn the steering wheel and press on the brake so my code comes back as 536 which is “BOO circuit not activated during KOER” Possibly a defective reader? Thoughts? Thank you
You're welcome! If I remember correctly, you may not always get a prompt. I would try to run the test again and just time yourself to turn the steering wheel. Otherwise, you could have a defective reader.
I know this is an F150 video but I'd like to ask you about a Tbird. I'm pretty sure I bought and still have this Ford able OBD1 code reader. I noticed on your view of the application page it does not apply to a 4.6L 1995 Thunderbird. The OBD1 reader I have will not fit in the port under the glove compartment. I bought an OBD2 reader and it does not fit the port either. I read somewhere that the 95 4.6L Thunderbirds codes were read with a special reader that the Ford dealership had. I went to a Ford dealership several years ago and the parts department guy told me that they threw those away years ago. It would be kind of ridiculous to actually have this port and still have to use a paper clip and count blinks somehow, if that is even possible with this model. Is there any more info out there on this?
This is a really good question. Does the plug-in port on your T-bird look similar to the one in the video? If it is, I would almost give it a try and see what happens. Otherwise I would see if it’s possible to hunt down the special code reader. I know a lot of people, use the paperclip blinking method, but that’s not a very efficient way to read codes.
Grest video! I've followed your video steo by step and read the book instructions. Still can't get any codes. It Does not display 11 indicating no codes. Once i push test button, i hear the engine/computer doing its thing but nothing ever pops up. Only reads 000. Any ideas? Faulty code reader? Might return it and try another one.
Thanks man!🤙 These code readers can have issues sometimes. I always recommend unplugging the code reader, plugging it in again, and restarting the test. If you continue to have issues, return that particular code reader and buy another one.
Great video demonstration, I just picked one up for my 87 f150 XLT lariat super cab. I don't have an overdrive like you. Do you know if that part is skipped, when doing that engine running test. Would you happen to know where I could pick up that cover cap for the EEC Test point. Mine is missing and its just hanging there uncovered. I had a 95 same color as yours all my friends called it Barney, miss that truck, thanks for your help
Thanks man!🤙 If you don’t have overdrive you can skip that step. As for the EEC test point cover, you may need to go to a junk yard. I don’t think anyone remakes them. Yup, when I first bought my truck, my friends called it Barney too! Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters Steve, I did my running test on my 87 f150 5.0 but the first thing that came up top left code was CYL 6 shouldn't that be an 8 since it is a 8 cylinder. Then codes came up 45. 33. 25. While doing run test. Engine off test I came up with codes 21. 24. Then 10 and I guess a stored code of 33 I think I'm F....d lol
@@nickpanhead7209 Ok you’ll be just fine. I think these readers aren’t the best. Mine read my truck twice that it was a 6 cylinders and not 8. Definitely go back and clear an saved codes. Also look up those three codes. They could be nothing substantial or be The result of missing a step in the test. Either way it’s worth doing a retest.
Thanks Jason! My advice is if the code reader is acting up, start the process over again until it functions properly. I don’t think it’s the end of the world if you don’t get a cylinder code.
So I am leaning that I have a pcm on the fritz because the reader will not pull any codes in keor mode so I am going to pull computer out and check for anything alarming
I have an intermittent problem with a 1995 4.9L manual. Every now and then, the truck will shudder, CEL will come on, and I will completely lose throttle response. Pedal to the floor, nothing. The truck begins coasting as if it's in neutral. Eventually it will slow down to the point that I'm almost stopped and the truck will shut off by itself. Sometimes it just shudders for a split second and then goes back to normal, but normally that's a sign that it's eventually going to shut itself down. Once the truck comes to a stop, it often will not start again, at least not immediately. It will crank and crank but no ignition. After cranking it every 30 seconds or so for a few minutes, it will fire back up like nothing happened. When the truck starts back up, the check engine light is off. I have a few questions. First, I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere (a/c defaults to defrost under acceleration, then comes back under light/no throttle). Could that possibly be related? Second, does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? And third, since the code disappears when the truck starts back up, do these trucks store codes that I would be able to read even if I'm not actively experiencing the problem, or would I have to just carry the scanner, and plug it in as soon as the truck shuts down?
Interesting problem man. A don’t think a vacuum leak would cause this bad of an issue. However, you definitely want to fix the vacuum line connected to the blend door actuator. (Passenger side of engine bay near fire wall). Before we jump down my usual rabbit hole of diagnosing steps, I would buy a code reader and read the codes on your truck. Fault codes are stored in the ECM. So you don’t have to plug the code reader in as the problem is happening to get the code. Start there and then update me on what you find.🤙
According to the manual I need to do ignition timing after KOEO and before KOER in accordance to the specific service manual of a 1993 and up vehicle. Do you know how I could find such a manual/complete this procedure?
So the manual is saying you need to check your ignition timing? If that’s the case I have a video that shows you how to check your ignition timing with a timing light. Watch that and then check your timing.
Had some joker at an auto store tell me I couldn't run codes on my 91 F150. That's why the reader fit and I did get codes, right? WAITED for him to tell me i needed Signal fluid and a muffler bearing..
Quick question.. I for years have diagnosed these trucks by the ole "Ear-o-Matic 5000XL" aka My Ears. I recently got the innova scanner. I followed your directions to a T. I keep getting code 13 and 72. One is for operator error. Im wondering if im doing the test wrong. I also have codes 31 and 32 for the EVP I believe. Truck has a erradic idle, the only symptom is a slight shake at idle when watching the manifold i can see its shaking.. Cant tell a difference in engine speed (no tach). Ive made sure my TPS is withing spec, iac circuit is working, throttle plate is clean, map sensor working correctly (checked with vaccum guage and a spectrum scope ) spark plugs not fouled, new wires and cap, new coil, air filter is new only has 6k on it. Oil is always changed at 2500-3000 mile intervals with the filter. EGR seems to work, hold vaccum at least. The vaccum line from the egr to the EGR solenoid is solid. The truck has a new EGR solenoid. Any tips?
Before I had one of these scanners I was the same way. I have a mild shake at idle too. My 95 doesn’t have a tach so I can’t tell if these is a change in RPM but I don’t think so. It sounds like to me, you’ve checked everything. I know for my truck I’m thinking of cleaning the IAC valve and possibly replacing it. The benefit of these scanners is it will find an electric issues, but I’m skeptical if it can find mechanical issues. Hence, why I want to clean the IAC. Are all of your vacuum lines new? Sometimes new vacuum lines help. Otherwise, I would keep following your gut and go through a part by part check. One part/parts, that could cause a slight issue would be fuel injectors. Electrically they could be sound but mechanical the spray tip could be fouled a bit.
@@TheMinuteMasters i bought a stethescope and tomorrow while im rebuilding the front end, ill check each injector to see if the solenoids are firing in each. Im thinking one may be stuck open (which would explain the heavy smell of unburnt fuel) and if its stuck open, perhaps it could be too rich at idle to properly burn causing a imbalence in the engine (not a misfire but less power in that piston) which im assuming may cause a shake or imbalence.
@@UserName-ln5ol That’s a good idea and definitely worth a try. Whenever I have issues to always go back to the engine triangle air, fuel, and spark. Fuel typically gets passed over in favor of the other two of the trifecta. Dry injectors can also cause issues too.
@@TheMinuteMasters i stethescoped the injectors, they all work. It seems like the idle got better after i drained the oil(which had lucas in it) and replaced it with 10-30. Guess that snake oil isnt always good.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1996 F150 with the ABS light on and it has an OBD2 port but no code. Is there a way for me to know what the issue might be? Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
No problem JR! ABS light is no surprise brake related. The easiest fix is to check your fluid level. Low fluid can trigger the sensor and the light will turn on. Sometimes that sensor goes bad. Sometimes the ABS sensor on one of the axles can go bad as well.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for your reply, I will check on that sensor and see if that helps with the OBS light, another issue I noticed is that whenever I come to a stop, my truck tries to turn off as if the my idle was too low. Do you think is related? Thanks again
@@jrorellana4865 My gut tells me the brakes aren’t related to your stalling issues. Stalling is usually sensor related and it’s related to your air management. So MAF, IAC valve, etc. that’s where the code reader helps. sometimes a transmission can cause stalling issues too.
Hello, one question when you press the hold or test button does any led light turn on , on the tester because i dont know if my tester has something wrong because o dont get any icon logo light or something only the 00 screen, thanks
I only want to do the second part of the test, I don’t care about the first part, but it’s not passing the first part. The previous owner put a crazy emission setup on it so it’s not going to pass. Is there any way to bypass this?
I start he test, both ways. But once I press test, nothing happens with the engine on or engine off test. I see the arrow, but it stays all zeros. Can you help me out please.
In general, if you have issues using this code reader, I advise people to try to repeat the tests. If the follow up tests also fail, then I would return the reader and get another one.
That seemed like it was pretty quick for the engine running test? because it's supposed to do a cylinder balance test. where it cuts off each cylinder one at a time. in which during that time where it's necessary for a person. to listen to the engine for a misfire on each cylinder. that will be more noticeable on the cylinders that are firing properly. and less on cylinders that are not firing properly. also you didn't mention if it comes with a trouble code list? which is as necessary as the scan tool.
Good question! This particular code reader lists all the different males and models it connects too. I don’t recall seeing Chevy in the list. But I wasn’t looking for Chevy specifically.
I got the same tester for my 94 f150 works good stay away from those obd1 to obd2 adapters you can get on eBay are Amazon they do not work they click on and off and never read and the whole time your fuel pump is wide open pumping gas
@@TheMinuteMasters also on the obd1 scanner after you read the codes with the engine running you push your gas pedal just about half way and let up and it puts the pcm into a cyinder balance test it checks your fuel injectors and compression on your engine if you get a code 90 at the end of the test it passed and all your cylinders are contributing ok and your compression is fine any number other then 90 is bad
Any idea if this will help me? 1995 f250, while driving a light will come on for a little bit then go away, never stays for more than a minute or 2, I don’t notice any difference in driving or anything. Wasn’t sure if this will have a way to pick up that code or not? I have no way of predicting when it comes so I wasn’t sure if obd1 stored past codes or anything like that, or if I’ll have to get lucky and it triggers while the scanner is plugged in.
This scanner could help you. It sounds like something is shorting out or becoming unplugged. These scanners are always good to own, so it's worth your while to buy one. I say give the scanner a go.
I just bought that same one but when I connect it for the "key on engine off" I turn on the code reader and I get the little triangle and a solid square. The square doesn't blink at all and I can leave it sit for a few minutes but no code will pop up even though my check engine light is on. Do you happen to know if I'm doing something wrong?
So you plugged the code reader in, turn the truck on (leaving the engine off), turn the code reader on, and then hit the test button? You get the triangle/arrow showing you are connected and you get a square. If you followed those steps on that order and you aren’t getting anything, I would try it a couple of times. These are good code readers but I wouldn’t say they are the best. I ran a couple of tests and the reader said that my truck only had six cylinders when clearly it’s a V-8.
I’m very confused. When i go to do the Engine On Test my reader says “6 cyl” but i have a 351w. Originally a 302 but it was swapped by previous owner. I also can’t even do the test properly because my overdrive button doesn’t compress. Any ideas on either issue or why it says 6cyl?
Awesome video! I was searching for a video showing how to check for codes and you did a perfect video. Thank you! Now I just need to purchase the tool and manual to read codes and I'm ready. My 1994 Ford F-150, automatic, 5.8, 4x4 just started hard jerking into 2nd and 3rd gear. I'm hoping it will show me a code that will fix the issue. Thank you again!
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Perfect instructions. I love these videos where there is no BS, excessive music, and crazy editing. Your information was excellent!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you !
Me too. Great job.
Thanks you just got a 1995 f-350 and was running rough and stalling and turning off got the scanner to troubleshoot it but found it was the PCM found out the previous owner replaced the original PCM for a 5.8 with a PCm for a 460 motor lol
@@datapark9118 besides that, did it totally work with your truck operating as it should now ?
Wow you gave me an education, I just bought convertors for my cars to use my fancy OBD2 tester, and you were explicit, concise, and articulate
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
You are very welcome. And thank you. I went on ebay and bought multiple convertors. 1 for my 90 ford. Kia van. Mercedes
I don't thank you often enough for these videos. Last year I acquired a '96 4wd with the 300 I6 that needs a lot of work. Stupid as it sounds, it's kind of my dream truck. And your instructions make it a cost-effective restoration, where subbing out all the labor would probably bankrupt me. Thank you!
You are most welcome man!🤙 I’m glad I can help you fix up your dream truck (which is definitely not stupid). My childhood dream vehicle was a purple pick up truck. Now, I drive one and make videos about it!🤙
I own the obd1 code reader for Ford, Lincoln, Mercury. I just plug it into the test port under the hood of my 1992 Ford Tempo. It gives me a code number. I look up the code number in the thick book that came with the code reader and it said "cylinder 1 misfire." I bought mine at Walmart back in the day, but I still see them on ebay for $40. You had to buy separate obd1 code readers for each brand of vehicle you owned. I looked at reviews of the adapter cable that connects your obd1 port to your new obd2 code reader and tons of people in the comments said that they wasted money, because their's don't work.
It’s all about experience, and if someone doesn’t understand how to, using an adapter to read from a OBD11 Diagnostic Device, very much depending on the Make and Model of the Device, I’ve Witnessed a Mechanic Burn up his $800 Device!
A jumper Wire Is a lot cheaper!!!
All I can say is, Thank you, Thank you and Thank you. I bought the reader you suggested, followed your instructions and it is great.
You are most welcome! Glad it helped you out🤙
I bought this code reader year ago. Sadly, it sat in my drawer for a year because I thought it wouldn't work on my truck because it's a 96. The code readers box said it stopped at 95. I would count the blinks, go crazy, think I missed blinks lol. then one day I found the reader while moving. opened it and it worked. thanks for your video. im not a reader haha.
Life saver even now!!! A 1989 ford f150 has been shown great love thank to you😂
You’re welcome man!🤙
This is the best video on this I have seen! Ford owners everywhere will be back on the road soon, wish I I had bought a scanner with the truck.
Thanks Edward! 🤙 I appreciate it.
Concerning the ODB1, you are spot on and made it look toooooo easy. Frankly never before had I used a reader and I had to read the instructions numerous times before completely understanding the process and procedure. Your video just completely tied up the loose ends for me. Thank you. ONE THING When I first hooked the reader up and plugged in I received no indication it was connected. Well come to discover the pins on the reader (two of them) had recessed into the reader itself and were only pultruding out of the reader say 1/8 of an inch. So be aware the quality of this reader has some issues. I place a drop of quick drying glue on the base of the finger and that did it for me.
Absolutely! These are the most difficult code readers to use. It’s unfortunate that this is the only affordable reader and the quality is hit or miss.
Alternately you can place test jumper in plug, and read the flashes of the check engine light. All sitting in drivers seat, Really easier than using the scan tool..
Really good instructions, thank you! I've never used on before, not I don't feel so intimidated. I'm picking up a used truck, and want to make sure it has no major problems.
Thanks man!🤙They can definitely look intimidating for sure.
Yes, I second that! No fluff, just the good stuff! Thanks Steve, when are you opening the DYI garage? Knowledge is key!
Thanks man!🤙 Hahaha! I’ve actually thought of that as a potential business venture. So many of us DIY mechanic would love a place to rent a lift and tools and have a place to work on our vehicles.
IMPORTANT: This particular tool is ONLY for Ford products. Innova makes a different model for GM products. They also produce more expensive models with a variety of adapters. Then there are REALLY expensive models that can be used with both OBD I and OBD II vehicles.
Also, the test plug isn't on the drivers side on all vehicles. Explorers, for example, have the plugs located on the passenger side.
Thanks for sharing man!🤙
I got a Bosch OBD 1300 from a pawn shop for $60, It was Like new with all the cables. Best code reader I have ever used for OBD I Fords.
Nice! I never knew Bosch made one. Bosch makes good products.
I bought one of those from Auto Zone and works great.
English, French, and Spanish instructions.
Yup, they feel and look cheap but they definitely work.
@@TheMinuteMasters The hand held machines cost a big chunk of money.
@@frankdenardo8684 Yeah they definitely do. I’m glad someone makes this size and price.
THANKS! I used mine to find that the TPS was bad with the key ON test but was wary about how to do the engine ON test. Now I know!
'94 F-150 5.0 XLT - 132K miles.
You are welcome Jim!🤙 Yeah the key on test can definitely feel sketchy to do.
Wow. I can see why things got redesigned in 96. Thanks for the info. I'll try not to break a wire or bend a prong during this process.
I know right! Lol
Government forced OBDII because universalism was necessary .The manufacturers were trying to get independent mechanics out of business .
Awesome thank you. My own mechanic said it was nearly impossible to read the codes in my 1995 Mustang. Wrong-O. :D
You’re welcome!🤙
As you observed, even mechanics are wrong unfortunately.
Love the no BS VIDEO….thanks!
Thanks man! 🤙
Damn thx buddy. Didn’t even know there was a obd1. Auto zone said my 94 van didn’t have codes
No problem man!🤙 Yup, they can read the codes but you can👌
Just bought a 94 ranger 3.0 v6. Of course it only threw a cel after paying for it. Went straight to work pulling codes the old fashioned way. But the koer part was kicking my ass. Stumbled across this video. Immediately found this scanner at autozone 34 bucks. Already got the koeo 335 code, and the koer 116, 536 and some other code. Obviously a bad coolant sensor and boo switch will toss the cel. Hope to have it ready to smog by next week. Good video. Only took 3 years for me to need it😂
Those codes readers are worth their weight in gold for these trucks!
@@TheMinuteMasters lol...absolutely. the cel only comes and goes. It left long enough to sneak it past smog with a solid pass score
Great job.
Just bought this scan tool recently.
Thanks man!🤙
Nice! You will get some use out of it for sure!
I use this device many years to check my sables)) it's much better than to count bulb flickering))
This is true! The check engine lights don’t help you figure anything out.
Wow OBD2 is so much easier. They got smart and put the plug in the cab.
They sure did!
Great presentation. I would however like to add that there were some ford trucks that had a GVW of 8800 or over, went beyond 1996, that still used the OBD 1 System. Case in point, my 1997 F350 with the 460 engine uses OBD1. It seems that these heavy duty trucks were exempt, up until, I think, somewhere abound 1989.
Good point the 97 years of F250 and F350s were the last of the old body style. I didn’t know they continued to use OBD1 though.
5.8 ( 351W) Also. in some early `1998 HD F 350 cab/chasse OBS.
Bought one of these code readers going to be trying it on my 89 E350 Motorhome today.
Nice!🤙 They come in real handy.
Some fords have ob2 before 1996 the reader plugs right in. I had a 1994 thunderbird that did.
I could see that being the case.
Thank you very much for this video. It has helped me immensely. I really appreciate it
You’re welcome man!🤙
excellent!!!! so glad i ran across your vid on this… hatted the paper clip!!
Great video .A couple things to add. For KOEO with a stick shift hold clutch to the floor.I use a broomstick.wedged against the driver seat back.For the KOER you can use your hand to floor the throttle when you see the 10 signal.no need to scurry back inside and use your foot.
You're right the book will explain all this. Earlier style code readers made you sit there and count how many times the CEL flashes to get codes...Real tedious
Thanks man!🤙 Good tip! Yeah I should have thought about just moving the throttle with my hand. But I had to be in the cab for the other two tests with an auto trans.
Oh I know what you mean! Lol I had a 86 Datsun and I had to count the codes like that.
Counting Flashing lights works too after a couple of tries...
thak you that was great just a little loder for us old guys keep up the good work
Thanks Roger! 🤙 Will do.
Thank you. I now know what an OBD1 port looks like. My 1996 Ford E350 ClassC motorhome 7.5L can't read the codes. But it definitely looks like an OBD2 port. My OBD2 reader can't read it. Seems like a common problem with this specific model. It can't communicate. Might be an issue with the port. Fuse was bad, I changed it, that isn't the issue. But at least that fuse is fresh now.
Off to do more research! Your video helped.
Your welcome Tex! If the code reader doesn’t work the first time, I’d try a few more times. It’s a good code reader (for the price) but it does have glitches here and there.
Glad to hear it and thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Unfortunately, the mechanics 10k reader can't read it either. I'm still troubleshooting. He quit because he could not figure it out. I have an Autel OBD2 reader. Neither will link, they get link error codes. The problem is probably in the OBD port. I'm a bit intimidated over messing with that.
@@TexCynRVLife Gotcha. I don’t know if it’s worth diagnosing there port either. It’s probably best you test every part and sensor related to your issue until you find the faulty part.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for your replies! 👍😊
I'll get this figured out.
Did you get your obd11 sensor to work
Thanks man. Was worried about getting one of these now I need one.
No problem Sam!🤙 They definitely look cheap, (yes they aren’t perfect), but they get the job done.
hey, thx for putting these videos up man! VERY useful...I ran my codes on my 87 5.0L today after changing the plugs/wires...had a miss. the Innova 3145 is reporting 6 cylinders - not 8...I read on the forums where the connector being dirty will do this....just an FYI...
You’re welcome man!🤙
Gotcha. Good to know!
Great explanation...going to buy one through your link...thanks!
Thanks man!🤙 Definitely, a good piece of diagnostics equipment. You’re welcome!
Hi Nice clean video, very helpful. So i got a 565 KOEO, also a 172 c reading...how did you fix the 565 (purge canister solenoid circuit)? I replaced the solenoid (which i later tested and it opened okay w/ a 6 v battery), then replaced the heated oxygen sensor then retested and got the same codes. Since the wires connect to harnesses and all look undamaged, how do you either test the circuit from the PCM computer to the sensor/solenoid??
PS the book said don't fix the c test code until you pass the first KOEO test. Also, the book doesn't explain what the c test is really testing or doing. Thank you sincerely, randy c
Hi Randy, I’m not sure how I fix the 565 code. And I know in this video, I said, I got a clean read from the code reader. However, I have no explanation for how I got rid of that code, and to be honest, I don’t think it causes any issues.
Somewhere in the comments, somebody said, Ford eliminated some engine function that required that solenoid purge valve, but never eliminated the valve. So it will always throw the code.
Hi Thank you for the reply. Onto changing plugs and wires and dist. cap. And Motorcraft platinum plugs. By the way, what do you think would be the best repair manual specific to '95 f150 5.0l 4x4--can't tell if it has a/c or not, the compressor looks like an air pump, no clutch just a pully wheel, can't find pressure ports---but there is a cold air knob inside! Randy c
@@tacoma1309 Hi Randy, I’ve been a long time user of Haynes manuals which are pretty easy to find at any auto parts stores.
@@TheMinuteMasters Hi Minute Masters: Thanks for letting me know and by the way, with all my testing, i think i must have scared the computer a little because the check engine light (CEL?) hasn't come back on! randy c
@@tacoma1309 hahahaha! That’s good!
hey awesome video! Just finished replacing both parts on my 95 5.0 xlt. I followed this because i had multiple codes including a 332, plus hard shifting after long periods of driving and i think thats when it threw on the code 332 (check engine light would come on randomly).
Anyways i started up my truck after replacing, and it was a very hard start. had to hold the key for about 5-10s. then it was running good, let it idle for a bit, then drove it for a bit. turned truck off and then started it back up, this time it started right away. then ran the code tester and still came up with some codes, including:
311 - thermactor air system/fault during engine run self test
334 - EGR closed, valve voltage high
225 - knock sensor fault during dynamic response test
212 - loss of ignition diagnostic monitor, signal/spout circuit gorunded
Idk if all of those have to do with replacing it jut thought id mention them. Anyways i havent been able to drive it a long time yet so i really dont know if theres any/big issues, but just thought i could get the convo going of what may be causing those codes. Or if the codes just didnt get erased after the installment? Im not to sure how to do that still new to all of this. I did disconnect the (red) positive battery cable when replacing all of this tho. anyways any thoughts would be appreciated, thx!
P.S. i also recently replaced all vacuum tubing and vacuum reservoir.
The 311 in reference to the thermactor air system sound like a vacuum or sensor induced code. The thermactor valve is the one behind the driver’s side of the intake plenum. It has 2-3 vacuum lines connected to it.
334 - can be caused by a number issues, stuck EGR valve, malfunctioning EGR position sensor, lose of vacuum to the EGR.
225 - could be cause by not hitting the gas doing the test.
212 - is new to me.
My advice is to go and internet search those codes for fixes, especially 311, 225, and 212.
I fixed my 334 with new EGR valve and position sensor.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the swift response! I will look more into these, in the meantime keep making more great content for us un-experienced obs owners 🤣
@@TheMinuteMasters hey just realized I somehow commented this on the wrong video, meant to comment on your EGR valve replacement video🙃
So just to reiterate, I did replace the egr and the sensor with the same parts you linked but I’m now getting the 334, was only getting 332 previously. Could this be that I got the wrong part or it’s faulty? Bought straight from your links in the description.
@@TheMinuteMasters UPDATE: I went ahead and threw the old sensor on, ended up not getting the code 334, but instead 332. So I think it’s the sensor. I must’ve got a faulty one or it’s not the right one. Going to keep the new sensor on for now but I think I’ll contact their support and see if they can help.
@@brodyclark Good idea man!🤙
Gonna have to get this scanner. If I remember right, mine you have to count the flashes. This is much easier.
These scanners are definitely good to have. I used to have an old Datsun and I had to count the flashes too.
@@TheMinuteMasters well, i got one sitting in my amazon cart. As well as the extension!
@@briant.4618 Nice!🤙
The manual says at 1:24 read the paper Excludes 1994 F250 7.3, I tried and would not read any codes. Just FYI.
This is perfect for my 93 Mark VIII!
I have a 1985 Ford Ranger and my code reader input is on the passenger side by the heater fan behind the airbox.
Perfect video thank you so much
Thanks Austin!🤙 No problem!
Awesome video brother. I had a check engine light on my 94 bronco and oreilys said these trucks are old they don't have old ports lol
Thanks man!🤙 Yup, O’Reilly’s can read OBD1 codes.
I got my Innovo Ford code reader in today along with the extension cable. Plugged the extension cable into the code reader and something just didn't feel right. Pulled the extension cable off the reader and noticed that the those broad, flat pins on the code reader had been pushed into the body. Now I'm a 78 year old former electronics tech so I know I didn't "muscle" the two together. I don't know if the female connectors on the cable were too tight or if the male pins on the reader body just weren't secured properly. They were pretty loose when I pulled them out with some needle-nose pliers. If the code reader body had been screwed together then I could have disassembled it and repaired the pins. But, it was glued together so back it went to Amazon. Someone mentioned an Actron 9690 code reader. I'll have to give that one a try. I'm afraid to reorder that Innovo Ford code reader. The next one might be as bad as the first one I got.
Good move. The Innovobis cheap both in price and build quality. It does the trick when it works. I haven’t used any other brand but Actron is an industry name. So you may get a better quality code reader.
Thats what i wanted to see Thanks! sounds like maybe you are low on power steering fluid.
The stock power steering pump whines a lot. I did a conversion to a Saginaw pump and it’s super quiet.
Great videos man. Quick question. I’ve got a 1995 f150 302 with obd1. It seems like it misfires at idle and it idle surges as well. It’s got a new tps sensor (motorcraft) and some other new bits. I ran the key on engine off test and got code 565 and then after got code 157 which is a Maf code. For some reason never got code 11 at the end after waiting a while but I proceeded. Previous owner replaced the Maf. Ran the engine on test and got code 998 which I’ve heard is limp mode and code 159 after. Another Maf code. Truck doesn’t seem to run any different when I unplug the Maf. Where would you start next? Possible bad computer? I know they are known to go bad. The capacitors that is.
Thanks man!🤙 Idle issues are difficult to pin down unless you know the age of all the ignition parts.
When was the last time spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were replaced?
An easy test for a MAF is to start the truck get it warmed up. Leave it in park and rev the engine. If the MAF is working it should rev up and down just fine. If it stumbles and maybe stalls, the MAF is bad.
@@TheMinuteMasters computer is fine. Previous owner supposedly did all the ignition stuff but at work tomorrow I am going to check the timing. Gonna go over his work as well. Keep up the great work my man🤘🏻
Love this. I have a 92 inline 6. Just replaced computer but she is bucking when I drive it. Reading and watching post and replaced every sensor I can think of and still not better. I did get code for egr and replaced sensor and nothing g. I can’t remove the egr to replace so not sure if that’s. Always something
I’m not sure if a bad EGR valve would cause fucking but I think it’s definitely worth going through all the various diagnostics checks just to see where your issue is.
Fuel pressure
Ignition timing
Test vacuum
I know sometimes new computers can cause issues but your new computer could be correct and your truck has been tuned to the old one.
@ thanks will check those issues out. Thanks for teaching me how to use code reader. Made it easy. It gave me codes 213 and 334. 213 I’m stumped. Have to do more research. 334 says egr. So purchased the sensor. And egr. But can’t loosen the nut. More projects. Thanks
@@gilbertopadron-q8p I used a MAPP torch from Home Depot and that loosened the EGR tub nut and it came off easily.
@ thanks. Long week Thanksgiving. Have off. I will go for it. Have parts will see if that is the issue. Will keep you posted. Thanks for replying. I appreciate it.
Awesome!
Great information 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙
Love the vid bro!! Now I know where to find and use it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks man!🤙 Yup, it comes in handy!
great quick vid
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Great video ! I was wondering if you had any ideas for the issue I'm having. I have the tool plugged up correctly and it turns on and the triangle pops up but the square doesn't and it doesn't throw any codes ?
Try it a few times and if you have the same issue, I’d return that code reader and get another one.
I got a 95 with the 300 I love that truck but I gotta fix it or get rid of it. Thanks for the video.
Nice! I think a lot of us find ourselves in that situation. Luckily, these trucks are very fixable.😁🤙
You’re welcome!
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah they are, bought it when I was nineteen, I abused it and fixed it a lot over the years. It’s not really practical anymore but ….
Can you reset the codes by disconnecting the battery for a certain amount of time?
Not sure. My guess is no but I haven’t verified that.
doing diagnostics on a 97 F450 (yes OBD1) 460 i have. Engine runs but only if i hit it with ether, once it kicks it runs but when cranking is showing no injector pulse, has 12V to injectors, 40+psi fuel and ample spark while cranking just no inj pulse but once started inj pulses fine. How would i do run test since it will not start without help? Great video, its good to know people still have interest in preserving these 'ol things 😄
That’s interesting that the injectors won’t pulse. Almost sounds like an ECM issue.
So you can’t get the truck started at all? Once it’s running, you should be able to do the run KOEO test.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, im kind of suspecting the ECM as well but eliminating ancillary stuff first. Yeah its weird and its a new one on me. I can put a noid light on an injector and see it cycling when its running then as soon as i shut it off and try to restart its no pulse. Hit it with ether she fires right up and injectors come instantly back up. Ive owned dozens of 90's vintage Broncos with the same systems and never had this prob. Thanks for the reply
Chevy obd1 diagnostic is hands down easier. A paper clip is all you need. Maybe you can with this also. Tuning the eprom and getting to the ecm on GM is a much better deal.
You can use a paper clip as well. The code reader speeds up the process though. I haven’t messed with tuning the PCM.
Thank you. Bu as usual I'm confused. If you got a 565 code, then how can you say you passed the test when you got the 111 indicator? Doesn't the 565 indicate a problem with the sensor you remarked upon?
If I remember correctly, code 565 only shows up in one of the tests (engine on or engine off). So I get a 111 after the one that doesn’t through the code.
@@TheMinuteMasters dd
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks. You did a key on engine off test. There was a trouble code. 565. The key on engine off test continued. You got a 111 which means "you passed the test, there are not codes". But there was a code. 565. So that's what's confusing to me. Of course, I'm the only one who is confused. But this is very common. I pay very close attention, and if something doesn't make sense, I question it. Thanks for your video.
@@marshall2 Good eye Pat! I’ll have to go back and run the test and see if I get a code 565 then.
Very well explained, can you help me with the overdrive light it turns on when it is running
Does the overdrive flash when your truck is on or is the code reader getting an Overdrive error code?
@@TheMinuteMasters it flashes on and off while driving
@@creacionese.o1475 Interesting. My light only flashed at me when my OD band burnt out one time. Are you getting an error codes?
Thanks for the video!!!
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Hey! Thanks for making a video for this. I am doing this now because my truck will not start. Where can I go to find more information on the codes though? I have gotten the codes and am now trying to figure out what they mean and what needs to be fixed. I am thinking the main code which was 542 is the reason it is not starting because it is for the secondary fuel pump circuit (what that is I am not sure), the other is something about the egr valve not getting enough reading or something. I have tried searching but am getting so many different meaning other than what the book says my code is for, and I cant seem to find what exactly the secondary fuel pump circuit is!
You’re welcome man!🤙
Honestly I just do a Google search to find the answer. I know it may seem like there’s a lot of conflicting information out there but you can typically narrow it down. For the EGR code use this video to diagnose👇
ruclips.net/video/xWpqhdQH01Q/видео.html
For the fuel pump, I would check relays and fuses. Then I’d replace the fuel filter. Replacing the pumps should be your last move.
@@TheMinuteMasters What is really just confusing me now that I have once-overed it, is that both pumps prime just fine when I turn the key, but the truck doesn't start. Ill have to dive deeper tomorrow. Thanks a lot for your reply!!
Even though I own a 1996 F 150 it still has ODB1 as it was built in 10/85, well before the cutoff date of 1/1/1996.
Sounds about right. I’ve heard guys that have been on the other end of 96 and got an OBD2 system.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks man!🤙
1996 Econoline gvw 8,600+ uses obd1. It has obd2 plug under steering wheel but doesn't communicate with ECM.
Weird. Does the OBD1 plug work?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes,
Thank you!
Stevie and idea why I can read the codes with the engine off but when engine is running the code reader does nothing? The 1st code reader is got broke apart but summit racing sent me another one but both readers didn't read codes with engine running
Weird. Well you did the correct thing by sending the first one back. I would try it a couple of times. These code readers are cheap and they can be spotty. Unfortunately they are the only reasonable option for most hobbyists.
I had a question. I have a 91 ford xlt lariat, auto trans. It has overdrive but it’s not a push button overdrive, it’s a gear shift overdrive. Would I skip the overdrive step? Thanks for the great vid!!
Yes, I do believe you skip the overdrive part in that instance.
Big help, tank you bro… aloha 💯🔥🤙🏾
No problem man!🤙 thanks for watching!
Perfect. Thank you
You’re welcome Kelly!🤙
Thanks again
Thank you for this video!!
I’ve learned a lot.
My 94 Escort is 10 and 111 for the
KOEO so no issue there.
The KOER my code reader isn’t giving me the 4 cylinder # prompt to turn the steering wheel and press on the brake so my code comes back as
536 which is
“BOO circuit not activated during KOER”
Possibly a defective reader?
Thoughts?
Thank you
You're welcome! If I remember correctly, you may not always get a prompt. I would try to run the test again and just time yourself to turn the steering wheel.
Otherwise, you could have a defective reader.
Great job!
Thanks Bobby!🤙
Will a soon to be replaced transmission cause a check engine light on the truck? I have a 95 F250 7.3
It could depending on what code the old transmission is triggering.
I know this is an F150 video but I'd like to ask you about a Tbird. I'm pretty sure I bought and still have this Ford able OBD1 code reader. I noticed on your view of the application page it does not apply to a 4.6L 1995 Thunderbird. The OBD1 reader I have will not fit in the port under the glove compartment. I bought an OBD2 reader and it does not fit the port either. I read somewhere that the 95 4.6L Thunderbirds codes were read with a special reader that the Ford dealership had. I went to a Ford dealership several years ago and the parts department guy told me that they threw those away years ago. It would be kind of ridiculous to actually have this port and still have to use a paper clip and count blinks somehow, if that is even possible with this model. Is there any more info out there on this?
This is a really good question. Does the plug-in port on your T-bird look similar to the one in the video? If it is, I would almost give it a try and see what happens. Otherwise I would see if it’s possible to hunt down the special code reader. I know a lot of people, use the paperclip blinking method, but that’s not a very efficient way to read codes.
Grest video! I've followed your video steo by step and read the book instructions. Still can't get any codes. It Does not display 11 indicating no codes. Once i push test button, i hear the engine/computer doing its thing but nothing ever pops up. Only reads 000. Any ideas? Faulty code reader? Might return it and try another one.
Thanks man!🤙 These code readers can have issues sometimes. I always recommend unplugging the code reader, plugging it in again, and restarting the test. If you continue to have issues, return that particular code reader and buy another one.
Will do. Thsnk you man!!
No experience here. Are OBD 1 codes the same from car to car? Like for example a 94’ Toyota VS a domestic from similar timeframe?
No, OBD1 was manufacturer specific
Great video demonstration, I just picked one up for my 87 f150 XLT lariat super cab. I don't have an overdrive like you. Do you know if that part is skipped, when doing that engine running test. Would you happen to know where I could pick up that cover cap for the EEC Test point. Mine is missing and its just hanging there uncovered. I had a 95 same color as yours all my friends called it Barney, miss that truck, thanks for your help
Thanks man!🤙 If you don’t have overdrive you can skip that step. As for the EEC test point cover, you may need to go to a junk yard. I don’t think anyone remakes them.
Yup, when I first bought my truck, my friends called it Barney too! Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you for getting back to me, you make some good Videos
@@nickpanhead7209 You’re welcome! I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Steve, I did my running test on my 87 f150 5.0 but the first thing that came up top left code was CYL 6 shouldn't that be an 8 since it is a 8 cylinder. Then codes came up 45. 33. 25. While doing run test. Engine off test I came up with codes 21. 24. Then 10 and I guess a stored code of 33 I think I'm F....d lol
@@nickpanhead7209 Ok you’ll be just fine. I think these readers aren’t the best. Mine read my truck twice that it was a 6 cylinders and not 8. Definitely go back and clear an saved codes. Also look up those three codes. They could be nothing substantial or be The result of missing a step in the test. Either way it’s worth doing a retest.
Great video!
What happens if I do not get a cylinder code?
Thanks Jason! My advice is if the code reader is acting up, start the process over again until it functions properly. I don’t think it’s the end of the world if you don’t get a cylinder code.
Hey Stevie I have a 95f150 5.8 my transmission is going into limp mode but I don't have a check engine light. Any thought thanks for the help
Have you read the codes yet?
Not yet I have obd1 on order
So I am leaning that I have a pcm on the fritz because the reader will not pull any codes in keor mode so I am going to pull computer out and check for anything alarming
I have an intermittent problem with a 1995 4.9L manual. Every now and then, the truck will shudder, CEL will come on, and I will completely lose throttle response. Pedal to the floor, nothing. The truck begins coasting as if it's in neutral. Eventually it will slow down to the point that I'm almost stopped and the truck will shut off by itself. Sometimes it just shudders for a split second and then goes back to normal, but normally that's a sign that it's eventually going to shut itself down. Once the truck comes to a stop, it often will not start again, at least not immediately. It will crank and crank but no ignition. After cranking it every 30 seconds or so for a few minutes, it will fire back up like nothing happened. When the truck starts back up, the check engine light is off.
I have a few questions. First, I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere (a/c defaults to defrost under acceleration, then comes back under light/no throttle). Could that possibly be related? Second, does anyone have any clue what the problem might be? And third, since the code disappears when the truck starts back up, do these trucks store codes that I would be able to read even if I'm not actively experiencing the problem, or would I have to just carry the scanner, and plug it in as soon as the truck shuts down?
Interesting problem man. A don’t think a vacuum leak would cause this bad of an issue. However, you definitely want to fix the vacuum line connected to the blend door actuator. (Passenger side of engine bay near fire wall).
Before we jump down my usual rabbit hole of diagnosing steps, I would buy a code reader and read the codes on your truck. Fault codes are stored in the ECM. So you don’t have to plug the code reader in as the problem is happening to get the code. Start there and then update me on what you find.🤙
According to the manual I need to do ignition timing after KOEO and before KOER in accordance to the specific service manual of a 1993 and up vehicle. Do you know how I could find such a manual/complete this procedure?
So the manual is saying you need to check your ignition timing? If that’s the case I have a video that shows you how to check your ignition timing with a timing light. Watch that and then check your timing.
Wondering, will this will work on a 1994 Ford 7.5L 460 in my 34' Four Winds RV?
It might be worth trying🤷♂️
Had some joker at an auto store tell me I couldn't run codes on my 91 F150. That's why the reader fit and I did get codes, right? WAITED for him to tell me i needed Signal fluid and a muffler bearing..
😂 Those parts guys are either really good or really bad. Lol
I thought my 90 ford was too old for that lol autozone lied! Thanks for the vid!
A 1990 EEC will have 2 digit codes. Best of luck!
@@Skitter302 I need alot of luck lol
Well they were partially true. Too old for OBD2 but not for OBD1. No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Quick question..
I for years have diagnosed these trucks by the ole "Ear-o-Matic 5000XL" aka My Ears.
I recently got the innova scanner. I followed your directions to a T. I keep getting code 13 and 72. One is for operator error. Im wondering if im doing the test wrong. I also have codes 31 and 32 for the EVP I believe. Truck has a erradic idle, the only symptom is a slight shake at idle when watching the manifold i can see its shaking.. Cant tell a difference in engine speed (no tach). Ive made sure my TPS is withing spec, iac circuit is working, throttle plate is clean, map sensor working correctly (checked with vaccum guage and a spectrum scope ) spark plugs not fouled, new wires and cap, new coil, air filter is new only has 6k on it. Oil is always changed at 2500-3000 mile intervals with the filter. EGR seems to work, hold vaccum at least. The vaccum line from the egr to the EGR solenoid is solid. The truck has a new EGR solenoid. Any tips?
Before I had one of these scanners I was the same way. I have a mild shake at idle too. My 95 doesn’t have a tach so I can’t tell if these is a change in RPM but I don’t think so.
It sounds like to me, you’ve checked everything. I know for my truck I’m thinking of cleaning the IAC valve and possibly replacing it. The benefit of these scanners is it will find an electric issues, but I’m skeptical if it can find mechanical issues. Hence, why I want to clean the IAC.
Are all of your vacuum lines new? Sometimes new vacuum lines help.
Otherwise, I would keep following your gut and go through a part by part check. One part/parts, that could cause a slight issue would be fuel injectors. Electrically they could be sound but mechanical the spray tip could be fouled a bit.
@@TheMinuteMasters i bought a stethescope and tomorrow while im rebuilding the front end, ill check each injector to see if the solenoids are firing in each. Im thinking one may be stuck open (which would explain the heavy smell of unburnt fuel) and if its stuck open, perhaps it could be too rich at idle to properly burn causing a imbalence in the engine (not a misfire but less power in that piston) which im assuming may cause a shake or imbalence.
@@UserName-ln5ol That’s a good idea and definitely worth a try. Whenever I have issues to always go back to the engine triangle air, fuel, and spark. Fuel typically gets passed over in favor of the other two of the trifecta. Dry injectors can also cause issues too.
@@TheMinuteMasters i stethescoped the injectors, they all work. It seems like the idle got better after i drained the oil(which had lucas in it) and replaced it with 10-30. Guess that snake oil isnt always good.
I also checked pressure at the fuel rail at idle and with key on engine off, both fell into spec.
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1996 F150 with the ABS light on and it has an OBD2 port but no code. Is there a way for me to know what the issue might be? Any help will be appreciated, thanks.
No problem JR!
ABS light is no surprise brake related. The easiest fix is to check your fluid level. Low fluid can trigger the sensor and the light will turn on. Sometimes that sensor goes bad. Sometimes the ABS sensor on one of the axles can go bad as well.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for your reply, I will check on that sensor and see if that helps with the OBS light, another issue I noticed is that whenever I come to a stop, my truck tries to turn off as if the my idle was too low. Do you think is related? Thanks again
@@jrorellana4865 My gut tells me the brakes aren’t related to your stalling issues. Stalling is usually sensor related and it’s related to your air management. So MAF, IAC valve, etc. that’s where the code reader helps. sometimes a transmission can cause stalling issues too.
I got one of these for my 91: Ford f350 7.5 but i still cant figure out how to read the codes.
So you need to know where to plug it in?
Hello, one question when you press the hold or test button does any led light turn on , on the tester because i dont know if my tester has something wrong because o dont get any icon logo light or something only the 00 screen, thanks
As I tell everyone, this code reader is good but not perfect. Try running the test again and see if it works properly.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks!!
I only want to do the second part of the test, I don’t care about the first part, but it’s not passing the first part. The previous owner put a crazy emission setup on it so it’s not going to pass. Is there any way to bypass this?
That’s weird! I’ve heard of some vehicles having issues like that. Luckily the first test is actually pretty quick.
will this help diagnose a flashing overdrive off light?
It definitely will!🤙
Where can get the extension chord? Because Innova says they don’t make an extension chord for that model.
There’s always one listed on Amazon.
I found obd1 to obd2 but not obd1 to obd1
Yeah like I said I looked. Amazon shows OBD1 to OBD2 but I haven’t seen OBD1 to OBD1
@@petereinacher2007 Interesting
I start he test, both ways. But once I press test, nothing happens with the engine on or engine off test. I see the arrow, but it stays all zeros. Can you help me out please.
In general, if you have issues using this code reader, I advise people to try to repeat the tests. If the follow up tests also fail, then I would return the reader and get another one.
@TheMinuteMasters Will do, thanks a lot. I really appreciate your videos. With my 1994 Ford F-150 it's not easy finding videos to learn from lol
Thank you sir
You’re welcome!🤙
That seemed like it was pretty quick for the engine running test? because it's supposed to do a cylinder balance test. where it cuts off each cylinder one at a time. in which during that time where it's necessary for a person. to listen to the engine for a misfire on each cylinder. that will be more noticeable on the cylinders that are firing properly. and less on cylinders that are not firing properly.
also you didn't mention if it comes with a trouble code list? which is as necessary as the scan tool.
That makes sense.
I mentioned the trouble code list. It’s in the book that comes with the code reader.
@@TheMinuteMasters I somehow must have missed that. I might gotten distracted by something I guess my bad.
I need a Obd1 tool for a ford e350 econoline Rv that weighs 7 tons. The one I have only goes for one ton.
Have you tried using the 1 ton reader on your 7 ton?
@TheMinuteMasters no but I found out that I can and thank you for your reply
Maybe a dumb question. But would this hook up to a 89 Chevy K1500 I have a 12 prong not a 16
Good question! This particular code reader lists all the different males and models it connects too. I don’t recall seeing Chevy in the list. But I wasn’t looking for Chevy specifically.
Do they check to see if there’s any injector issues? As in will it tell u if one is not working properly?
I think so but I’ve never had that code.
I got the same tester for my 94 f150 works good stay away from those obd1 to obd2 adapters you can get on eBay are Amazon they do not work they click on and off and never read and the whole time your fuel pump is wide open pumping gas
I’ve actually never seen one of those adapters. So I’ll definitely stay away from them. Thanks for letting me know man!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters also on the obd1 scanner after you read the codes with the engine running you push your gas pedal just about half way and let up and it puts the pcm into a cyinder balance test it checks your fuel injectors and compression on your engine if you get a code 90 at the end of the test it passed and all your cylinders are contributing ok and your compression is fine any number other then 90 is bad
@@christopherdarrough2667 That’s cool! I’ll have to try that. Thanks man!🤙
Any idea if this will help me? 1995 f250, while driving a light will come on for a little bit then go away, never stays for more than a minute or 2, I don’t notice any difference in driving or anything. Wasn’t sure if this will have a way to pick up that code or not? I have no way of predicting when it comes so I wasn’t sure if obd1 stored past codes or anything like that, or if I’ll have to get lucky and it triggers while the scanner is plugged in.
This scanner could help you. It sounds like something is shorting out or becoming unplugged. These scanners are always good to own, so it's worth your while to buy one. I say give the scanner a go.
I just bought that same one but when I connect it for the "key on engine off" I turn on the code reader and I get the little triangle and a solid square. The square doesn't blink at all and I can leave it sit for a few minutes but no code will pop up even though my check engine light is on. Do you happen to know if I'm doing something wrong?
So you plugged the code reader in, turn the truck on (leaving the engine off), turn the code reader on, and then hit the test button? You get the triangle/arrow showing you are connected and you get a square. If you followed those steps on that order and you aren’t getting anything, I would try it a couple of times. These are good code readers but I wouldn’t say they are the best. I ran a couple of tests and the reader said that my truck only had six cylinders when clearly it’s a V-8.
I'm having this same issue! Did you figure it out?
I’m very confused. When i go to do the Engine On Test my reader says “6 cyl” but i have a 351w. Originally a 302 but it was swapped by previous owner. I also can’t even do the test properly because my overdrive button doesn’t compress. Any ideas on either issue or why it says 6cyl?
So that happened to me. I had to unplug turn my truck off and then restart the whole process to get my reader to show 8 cylinders.
Awesome video! I was searching for a video showing how to check for codes and you did a perfect video. Thank you! Now I just need to purchase the tool and manual to read codes and I'm ready. My 1994 Ford F-150, automatic, 5.8, 4x4 just started hard jerking into 2nd and 3rd gear. I'm hoping it will show me a code that will fix the issue. Thank you again!
Thanks man!🤙 Yup, definitely buy the tool and see what codes it detects. Best of luck!
You’re welcome!