Question!! ( the water from the tank goes to the chiller core where it gets cold and then it is passed through charger after that it goes to the tank again Right )
@orange-dd5rw water from the tank goes to the blower, then to thr chiller core, then back to the tank. A heat exchanger will actually warm the water in this system, do not use it in conjunction.
Depends on your boost level and how long you stay in it. I do mostly 1\4 racing with it. So in 1 pass itll never get over 100. It'll rise a out 40* then come down about 20* immediately. By the time you cruise back to the line it'll come down another 20 and be back to where you started before you hit the line. If you're on the street... Maybe 3 back to back pulls before I'd recommend letting off and cruising a bit.
At the beginning of the video the tank didn't have a line on the upper left corner of the tank, after installation of the system the video shows the line. Why was it added and where is it connected too. Thanks Much. I'm adding LSA to my 15 SS with an interchiller and I'm looking at tank setups, also what interchiller system are you using?
You have a good eye. The purpose of the added line was to "vent" the tank from pressure. When I first installed the tank the lid would randomly leak coolant, in an effort to avoid coolant leaking around the lid I installed a vent tube to an overflow canister until it could be fixed. Not long after I made this video I got with the tank manufacturer who sent me a resized oring for the lid. I removed the extra line and plugged the hole. There have been no leaks since. The brand of chiller I'm using is a modified version of FI interchiller.
I'm late to the mix.. I'm having heat soak issues with '18 V3 ctsv in Las Vegas. I've had IAT 2 temp reach 189 while sitting still in a parking lot on an important call. The temps came down quickly when I started moving. Today was 95 degrees and the lowest temp I got was 123, high 174.. Only had the car 2 months, bought it from owner in Detroit.. methanol doesn't kick in until 6K rpm.. Looking to do a similar upgrade like yours.. How much does it cost?
Chiller systems are not cheap, however any cooling mod isnt cheap. A good chiller setup will be around $2,000 . If your IATs are that high your car is pulling timing and you dont even know it. The car will feel sluggish until cooler weather comes in the fall. With a chiller you will have boost season all year round. It really is the BEST cooling option out there for anything who actually drives their car on the street.
Iat 2 doesn't seem to care what 1 is. Iat1 can get up to 150 at idle and iat2 is still sitting at 50(or whatever it got down to). Once you begin a pull iat1 will usually drop due to moving air flow, iat2 will rise , mine usually goes up about 35-40* per pull. So if it starts at 60 I'm at 100 iat2 at end of pull. Then I just pull around and the temps immediately start dropping again
Yes I ditched the exchanger. There is a valve that allows you to run both if you wish. I keep my AC on all the time, but I'm in Texas so my ac rarely gets turned off anyway..maybe for 2 months in the winter ..
also you will need -12an braided hose and fittings. If youve never worked with braided hose or AN fittings its probably best to let the shop do it, as it typically requires special tools.
I used a sheet of insulating foam with an adhesive side. Cut the shapes needed to fit each side of the tank. Then sealed the gaps with black silicon to prevent condensation.
Correct. Living in the south we can't drive our cars without ac most of the year anyway. Temps rarely get cold. It hasn't been an issue for few years I've been running it so far.
@@laurensdelpech6343 not at all, at least not when it's filled correctly. For the first few months ac was not as cold, until I found an ac tech who actually knew what he was doing. Ever since then in cabin ac temps are just as cold if not colder than they were without the chiller. So if you know someone with a chiller and their in cabin ac isn't cold...their freon fill needs adjusted.
I run my chiller all the way up to the burnout box. I do pretty short burnouts to clean my tires. I then shut my ac down. Make pull. Turn ac back on as I'm coasting at the end. I do all this just to be on the safe side.
The ecu auto shuts down the A/C system as soon as you go wide open throttle, because A/C compressors are not designed for higher rpms. This has been the standard in all manufacturers for years.
@@A2J_Tim you are correct, they do. However when you let off the throttle your engine can still have pretty high rpm ..this rpm is transfered to the ac compressor which raises refrigerant pressures. If you had a button in your car that would guarantee you would never throw a rod during a pull...would you take the extra second to press it ? .. im sure you would ;)
@@TractionControlusa in modern cars the Engine control module is in control of the A/C system and will not allow that compressor to engage above a specified rpm as per manufacturer programming so even if you let off and you are still above the acceptable rev count it will not re engage the A/C system. Technology is a wonderful thing, Some times..
@ORIANA250 again you are correct EXCEPT we aren't talking about abfactory ac system anymore, we're talking about a system with a chiller that has been added. The ac compressor on a 5th gen camaro(the car in the video) is set to shut off above 3500rpm. This is fine when working with the oem expansion valve. But can damage the chiller valve. The valve in the chiller is a home hvac tx valve that's been repurposed. Also these companies do NOT give you a specific fill weight for your refrigerant, which leads to many over and under fills.
Why doesn't someone just design a separate compressor and system for chilling the intake air instead of using bap-ass r1234yf refrigerant or whatever it is in this car? Ammonia is like 8 times more effective of a refrigerant than r1234yf. Of course it's highly poisonous and will kill you, but who cares it's not in the cabin it's under the hood. You didn't mention how the AC performs when it's 110 outside and you're chilling that water with the AC compressor. If the AC gets one degree warmer in South Florida, that cars a dub you can keep it. Ain't no way I'm driving around with the windows rolled down sweating my dick off and looking at my intake air temps and thinking yea, this is great...
@jims.3987 we've actually been trying to find an independent system like you mentioned. I think space under the hood is an issue as well as spinning a compressor. Would pro a ly have to be electric. As far as in cabin ac performance we are in central texas...it's hot. Cabin ac is cold. I don't do the window down thing either...until December rolls around haha.
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That’s sick heat is why they say you shouldn’t compound 4 cylinder motor’s if you can get rid of the heat you should be good
Question!! ( the water from the tank goes to the chiller core where it gets cold and then it is passed through charger after that it goes to the tank again Right )
and if heat exchanger is added then the outlet water from the charger goes through heat exchanger and then passed into tank
@orange-dd5rw water from the tank goes to the blower, then to thr chiller core, then back to the tank. A heat exchanger will actually warm the water in this system, do not use it in conjunction.
how many wide open pulls can you make before the cooler system heat soaks?
Depends on your boost level and how long you stay in it. I do mostly 1\4 racing with it. So in 1 pass itll never get over 100. It'll rise a out 40* then come down about 20* immediately. By the time you cruise back to the line it'll come down another 20 and be back to where you started before you hit the line. If you're on the street... Maybe 3 back to back pulls before I'd recommend letting off and cruising a bit.
Where can I buy it
At the beginning of the video the tank didn't have a line on the upper left corner of the tank, after installation of the system the video shows the line. Why was it added and where is it connected too. Thanks Much. I'm adding LSA to my 15 SS with an interchiller and I'm looking at tank setups, also what interchiller system are you using?
You have a good eye. The purpose of the added line was to "vent" the tank from pressure. When I first installed the tank the lid would randomly leak coolant, in an effort to avoid coolant leaking around the lid I installed a vent tube to an overflow canister until it could be fixed. Not long after I made this video I got with the tank manufacturer who sent me a resized oring for the lid. I removed the extra line and plugged the hole. There have been no leaks since. The brand of chiller I'm using is a modified version of FI interchiller.
I'm late to the mix.. I'm having heat soak issues with '18 V3 ctsv in Las Vegas. I've had IAT 2 temp reach 189 while sitting still in a parking lot on an important call. The temps came down quickly when I started moving. Today was 95 degrees and the lowest temp I got was 123, high 174.. Only had the car 2 months, bought it from owner in Detroit.. methanol doesn't kick in until 6K rpm.. Looking to do a similar upgrade like yours.. How much does it cost?
Chiller systems are not cheap, however any cooling mod isnt cheap. A good chiller setup will be around $2,000 . If your IATs are that high your car is pulling timing and you dont even know it. The car will feel sluggish until cooler weather comes in the fall. With a chiller you will have boost season all year round. It really is the BEST cooling option out there for anything who actually drives their car on the street.
Where do I get your chiller setup? This would be good on my street car.
@@Byrd_City FI interchiller is the brand
Better on fuel? How is it do traveling long distance, stay cool?
@lylegoodluck stays cool all the time. Highway cruising is where the ac system performs best
thanks for the video. whats done to the car ? how much whp is it pushing?
E85, cam, 16psi,DDP intake, 2" headers, Kong ported blower with 102tb. Id1300 inj. Stock bottom end. Car is pushing 860whp
What are iat 1&2 on wot pulls
Iat 2 doesn't seem to care what 1 is. Iat1 can get up to 150 at idle and iat2 is still sitting at 50(or whatever it got down to). Once you begin a pull iat1 will usually drop due to moving air flow, iat2 will rise , mine usually goes up about 35-40* per pull. So if it starts at 60 I'm at 100 iat2 at end of pull. Then I just pull around and the temps immediately start dropping again
How are you getting iat and iat2 readings on the dash like that ? I have a 13 zl1 and it doesn't do that
You'll need a "dash logic" it makes your dash and hud customizable and goes back to stock when you unplug it
Great video Did! Did you ditch the exchanger? Do you have the ac compressor on all the time or only turn it on before spirited driving?
Yes I ditched the exchanger. There is a valve that allows you to run both if you wish. I keep my AC on all the time, but I'm in Texas so my ac rarely gets turned off anyway..maybe for 2 months in the winter ..
@@donventura3844 I ditched the hx. I live in texas..the ac runs day and night year round already.
Can I get a link to this exact tank and also what all would I need to run AN lines
www.blackmarketracing.net/products/bmr/cooling/reservoirs-and-tanks
also you will need -12an braided hose and fittings. If youve never worked with braided hose or AN fittings its probably best to let the shop do it, as it typically requires special tools.
Will it work with a procharger set up
How'd you insulate the tank?
I used a sheet of insulating foam with an adhesive side. Cut the shapes needed to fit each side of the tank. Then sealed the gaps with black silicon to prevent condensation.
You have to run the AC to get the inner chiller to work it’s cooling process correct?
*start
Correct. Living in the south we can't drive our cars without ac most of the year anyway. Temps rarely get cold. It hasn't been an issue for few years I've been running it so far.
@@TractionControlusa do you find the chiller drags on the A/C performance in cabin from a comfort perspective in the summer heat down south?
@@laurensdelpech6343 not at all, at least not when it's filled correctly. For the first few months ac was not as cold, until I found an ac tech who actually knew what he was doing. Ever since then in cabin ac temps are just as cold if not colder than they were without the chiller. So if you know someone with a chiller and their in cabin ac isn't cold...their freon fill needs adjusted.
Do you make pulls with ac running or do you make a lic then turn on interchiller to cool off temps
I run my chiller all the way up to the burnout box. I do pretty short burnouts to clean my tires. I then shut my ac down. Make pull. Turn ac back on as I'm coasting at the end. I do all this just to be on the safe side.
The ecu auto shuts down the A/C system as soon as you go wide open throttle, because A/C compressors are not designed for higher rpms. This has been the standard in all manufacturers for years.
@@A2J_Tim you are correct, they do. However when you let off the throttle your engine can still have pretty high rpm ..this rpm is transfered to the ac compressor which raises refrigerant pressures. If you had a button in your car that would guarantee you would never throw a rod during a pull...would you take the extra second to press it ? .. im sure you would ;)
@@TractionControlusa in modern cars the Engine control module is in control of the A/C system and will not allow that compressor to engage above a specified rpm as per manufacturer programming so even if you let off and you are still above the acceptable rev count it will not re engage the A/C system. Technology is a wonderful thing, Some times..
@ORIANA250 again you are correct EXCEPT we aren't talking about abfactory ac system anymore, we're talking about a system with a chiller that has been added. The ac compressor on a 5th gen camaro(the car in the video) is set to shut off above 3500rpm. This is fine when working with the oem expansion valve. But can damage the chiller valve. The valve in the chiller is a home hvac tx valve that's been repurposed. Also these companies do NOT give you a specific fill weight for your refrigerant, which leads to many over and under fills.
Will this system fit a V2?
The tank will not. The chiller will
You have a link to the chiller for a v2?
Did you get rid of your heat exchanger?
Yes. Havnt had one since
You mentioned Waco Texas….. are you near Waco or actually Hewitt specifically? If I’m mistaken and this isn’t a business then Nevermind.
We used to be located in Waco yes. L&D Automotive is in waco, where this was filmed.
Will it work with a pro charger system
Only if your charge pipes are liquid cooled.
@@TractionControlusa Do you know any good companies that would carry those and also would the inner chiller fit on a 6th gen
@@dexholloway9284 unfortunately no. Not for a procharger I don't. Most procharger use air to air heat exchangers.
@@TractionControlusa thanks again
Why doesn't someone just design a separate compressor and system for chilling the intake air instead of using bap-ass r1234yf refrigerant or whatever it is in this car?
Ammonia is like 8 times more effective of a refrigerant than r1234yf.
Of course it's highly poisonous and will kill you, but who cares it's not in the cabin it's under the hood.
You didn't mention how the AC performs when it's 110 outside and you're chilling that water with the AC compressor.
If the AC gets one degree warmer in South Florida, that cars a dub you can keep it.
Ain't no way I'm driving around with the windows rolled down sweating my dick off and looking at my intake air temps and thinking yea, this is great...
@jims.3987 we've actually been trying to find an independent system like you mentioned. I think space under the hood is an issue as well as spinning a compressor. Would pro a ly have to be electric.
As far as in cabin ac performance we are in central texas...it's hot. Cabin ac is cold. I don't do the window down thing either...until December rolls around haha.