Milton Martinez personally I like the middle on 9/16” grid and either way on the 15/16” grid. I don’t think you can go wrong with either, just a preference. Just remember which side you set it so that you don’t go center one end and side on the other end. Sounds silly but it happens every so often. Thanks for the question.👍
I’m a journeyman carpenter who specializes in acoustical ceilings and I will recommend this video to all of my apprentices that want to learn the basics of ceilings. Great video to learn the basic techniques.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 a little over 6 years late for a question but im interested for the acoustic side of this...and is there a way to put lights and still have sound reduction ?? thanks
I owned an acoustical company in California and installed ceilings for 40 years. Your video pretty much covers it all. A few minor tips: Put the jet line on the edge of the main. You don't have to eyeball the center of the main that way. Set the laser at ceiling level and lose the laser target. When you are cranking the wire down to level, put your free hand over the main as you have to anyway to pull it down as you level it. The laser will sweep across your hand so you can easily tell when to tie off the wire. The laser will also give you a sort of chalk line to set the wall angle to. The target is a major pain to use on wall angle. The target just adds steps and is always falling on the floor. Last tip is lay out your wires so they can be tied to the grid at the intersection of the main and cross tee and the wires will be plumb. It makes installing the tile much quicker. Time is money. Be glad that you don't have to install grid in California. Earthquake codes! Good video! Jerry
Jerry, I’m glad I don’t have to install for California either! I’ve heard those codes are nuts. I appreciate the feed back, only thing I’ll say on the jet line to the side is some times if the ceiling and line are at the same height the jetline can get caught in the cross T and snag it. So some days I’ll go center some days I’ll do it to the side of the main. I don’t have a hard stance on that. Appreciate the feedback👍
A week into my first year apprenticeship in commercial construction and they have me helping with installing dropped ceilings, 8 videos in and this is the first one that explains the process the 4th year journeyman uses to layout the grid. ( Is a joke, he has enough experience and hours to be journeymen, but he's still a 4th year)
Nice video it's been awhile since I did this, I needed a refresher. Reading other comments I don't understand why they are confused about this video, your instructions are plain and simple. Thank you
from seeing 2 different and big manufacturer videos to what an installer will do, you simplified it and made it easier to understand and the rules to follow to have a good square ceiling. thanks
Great video! I have to rehang a drop ceiling today for the first time. Your video and explanation make me feel like I can do it right the first time! Thanks for making this!
Thank you so much for posting this! I have a building in which i want to redo the foyer. The only issues are the grid cieling has to come out and i wasnt sure if i could create a mechanism with a steel cable to hang things. After seeing this? Given my dimensions and plans, what i need is already there! 😊 This is so perfectly "inline" with what im hoping to do, its uncannily perfect. Other than 1 or 2 adjustnents in my engineering ive got to make that actually make life easier, youve just given me an ideal proof of concept! Between that and seeing where your located, ill take that as a good omen. 😊 thx!
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Thanks! I didn't think that was of any use to me till I was trying to figure something out. So I'm glad you mentioned it as that might solve an issue I'm trying to figure. When you hang that grid, you've got 18 or 20 gauge wire hanging from above. What exactly is that attached to? Secondly, how far apart are those things spaced? If I've got to add more hanger wire, so be it. I don't know what the standard distance is between hanger wires. The reason I ask? If I use dry wall, weight distribution to which doesn't look like it's going to be an issue given what you've said and I've found. Secondly, thats my nodes in structural terms. Thanks again! 👍
Excellent instructional video by a mechanic not a do it your selfer! My preferred way of fastening wall angle into dry wall is fence staples or tension pins.
Hey friend. Awesome video. Very informative. One common mispronounced word...taunt or tont for tight or stretched is actually spelled TAUT and pronounced taught. I used to mis pronounce it too. Lol.
we are planning to replace an original old tile ceiling with a suspended ceiling in basement of a 60 yr old home . this video was very helpful in learning how the project will unfold. We're having a contractor do the work however its useful to know what the installation process is all about. We have yet to decide on the lighting, as pot lights were too expensive.
Thanks for creating this learning video.Liked your passion behind this creation. I had learnt from your video to ensure the Level of the Ceiling using Laser card and bending the wire using the pliers. I also read in one of the comments whether the sting line to be positioned on the center of the Main Tee or side of the Main Tee. For me both will work, as far as the installer does the basics right. Another observation, the suspension wire used was directly cut from the coil. Probably Pre-straightened would be better for achieving quality installation.
it would be highly appreciated if you can post your tools. such as puncher & rivets tools. for beginners like me, this is the first time in my life seeing someone use a puncher & rivets tools.
Little trick a ceiling guy taught me for layout is to count the number of fulls and multiply by two pull the number from the wall mark and measure the remainder from the other wall and divide by two pull that number from the wall and every four foot are your mains
I wish I had been smart enough to watch this video 3 years ago when I first entered the wall and ceiling trade. My first few weeks would have gone sooooo much better haha
@@mitchellacoustical3119 it helped a lot I did a bit of t-bar at the beginning as a total greenhorn flash forward to now and just got a new job at a much higher rate by claiming that I could totally install t-bar when I really only have real experience with steel studs. Just had my first day today and thanks to your vid I threw up a bunch of grid and new boss was pleased. Thanks for making this video and explaining it all in a way that's easy to get. Seriously.
What do you do to connect a cross t to the wall that doesn't need to be cut, its exactly the right size but there isnt any bottom metal overlapping to the wall frame pieces.... I got nothing to rivet to
My friend: the best video I watched Very informative, I'm a handyman and I'm about to take a job like this, never done it, I was a little nervous about it but you make it really easy, my question is pricing, can you give me a rough idea of how much to charge?
My estimator knows our pricing, but with ceilings it’s double your material. So if your material is 1000, then then your labor would be 1000 for a total of 2000. Or at least that how I used to estimate it. Hope that helps.
Might have been the room I was in. The joists were running opposite of where they needed to run in this particular case. We had chosen this room ahead as it had good lighting but this question comes up time to time.
Thanks. This was an excellent explanation. I will be putting up about 1,000 sq ft of 2’x2’ panels in our basement. I’ve already chosen a USG panel I want to go with. Any recommendations for a grid manufacturer (USG vs Armstrong) or a generic and are there any differences in the quality, etc? Thanks.
Usg, Armstrong or Chicago metallic are the brands we usually use. They’ll all have the same install, the stab tabs may be a little different. I can’t speak on any off brands as they wouldn’t be spec’d on our projects.
Great tutorial video,I only have one question I'm doing a repair and several of the hanging wires were cut in half, is it ok to splice wires allowed by code?
This is a great question! I would say you have to look at state code and what’s acceptable. We’ve never had an issue splicing and tying a square knot. We made a video on this on our channel called ‘using a slip knot to extend ceiling tile wire’
Hey, could you do a video on how to “jack up” or “jack down” your mains on the wire? It would help me ALOT...p.s. thanks for all of your videos they have helped me so much
We can absolutely do that! We can't guarantee that we'll get to it right away but hopefully in the very near future. Glad to hear the videos have helped you!
Thanks for the informative video. Can you please tell how to remove a tee from already installed grid. I have tried but they seemed locked or something
On big ceilings do u stagger your mains joint, or keep them the same? I hear different methods from different sources. One says stagger for strength, manufacturer says it’s not needed
Is there any benefit to floating the ceiling vs. designing a room in 2'/4' increments so that the tiles end exactly aligned to the walls? Is there an efficiency or cost/material savings between one verses the other?
Hmm, I guess you could but that would be very constrictive to the architect drawing the layout. Most people don’t look at ceilings. Just as long as they have equal boarders, like say 6” around the perimeter or something.
This is a very good video and I enjoyed watching it, but I am confused about how much to trim off of the main tees and centering everything. Years ago, my father and I installed two suspended ceilings in my home and they turned-out great, but I don't remember how we laid-out the grid work. The room I will be working on will be in a bathroom and the walls are concrete.
Do these rules apply for smaller rooms, like a 7.5 x 6? I have a small bathroom I want to do but always find videos for larger rooms. I would assume the same technique applies?
What do you do if you accidentaly pop a rivet in the wrong place? And what's your method of fastening the line thread? Ive always used laser but resorted to line thread when its a long corridor/too much light.. I just feel like there must be some smart easy way to fasten it compared to my struggle to get it up behind the wall molding
Usually we drill out the rivet and then caulk it. It’s very rare that it happens. The jet-line we use a screw and tie a knot above the ceiling. Also it doesn’t need to be on the center of the T or side of the T, as long as you keep the spacing to the jetline the same you should be fine.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 yeah thats what i also do, fastening it to a screw, then getting it behind the trim and out in the room.. Such a hassle. Because of bad eyesight, my depth vision screw up and i cant see calculate correctly if i put the string above the main runner.. But i also add half the runner's width to make it parallell to the edge, so much easier on the eyes, and less hassle to measure every T profile when locking in the diagonal. I really like your practice of carrying less tools though. Ive thrown away my rulers in advantage of measure tape only, i hate distance lasers with a passion when im done finding the room's length and width. I like that im not the only one measuring the main runner that way.. Everyone else use the laser measure for everything
Starting off i was told to run mains the longest run or as you said; the least amount of material. Been getting lucky doing that for a long time until one day I ran around popping wire this way and ended up doing four huge rooms before my boss caught me. The mains actually goes across the short side of those four foot lights.
Well the mains are the pieces that have to be riveted starting out, then yes adjacent to the main I usually start somewhere around 4’ and then skip to the next T 4’ away. When you’re riveting Ts they will always be 2’ or 4’ apart but you only need to rivet them every 4’. Hope this makes sense.
Nice instructions what’s up with the rivets? Use wire and tie back above ceiling height eliminates unsightly rivets. Used rivets only in tight corners were grid won’t lock. Local 1016 Muncie Indiana
Would raising an existing drop ceiling be similar? is there an "easy" way to bump it up? Is it possible to raise just part of a ceiling in a room, or do they always have to come straight across level?
Hi Mitchell , excellent video and presentation . I have installed few times before small suspended ceiling decade back with no any problems , but something strange happen right now , the installation of 24" x24 " USG drop in ceiling tiles , the Main T bar I can't divide equally in a room size 12'x24' , I have always 3 " on ether side off from equal from center where cross bar 24" suppose to be locked in to Main T bar 12' long , no matter how I divide main T bar I have always on one side 3" difference in size of tile . Could you please explain , does different T bar is required , how to equally divide tiles on a room 12'x 24' with a 12" main T Bar ? Thanks a lot , cheers :)
plutoniusis thank you for the question. Now if I reading it correctly all you would have to do if the room is truly 12’x24’ is cut the Main on the slot line. Those slot lines are 6” apart and we know that 2 of those slot lines would make 1’. So that being said cut on a slot line and you should have equal 24” boarder along the entire field and perimeter. You can start with your main being 24” c off the wall or 48” center and start with cutting the slot line and that should do it. Let me know if that works👍
@@mitchellacoustical3119 , salute Mitchell , , I went quick in basement again to check what's wrong with measurement , I can not establish that parameter , the beginning of the 12' main T bar has first interlocking spot at 3" and then every 6" , that means that first tile should be interlocked at 27" , so we continue to have that 3" difference and on the end tiles can not be equally sized , yes room is 12' wide and 24' long , , even if locking part are cut off , it does make any difference . Is there other T bar 12' long with all locking holes divided 6" from a start to end , so full tiles could be installed . Thanks a lot for your input , Good night :)
Yes the 12’ long main comes with the slot starting 3” off each end. So take your snips and cut only from one end on the slot line. Then take that 3” piece you just cut off the one side and connect it to the un-cut side. (So now you have a main 12’ long, with the first slot starting at 6”) Hang the main and go. Real simple
I usually tie the jetline to a rivet(double knot it) then take pliers and put that rivet end in between the drywall and molding. Beware that it can scratch the drywall but we’re the tapers too so it doesn’t matter on our end. Hope this helps👍
Question? I've removed a wall and now there is a width of wall missing from existing ceiling tile . I'd say about 9". How do join the two halves together? Thanks Jay.
I’m not sure what you mean by 4’ longer, but I can answer your out of sq question. When youre out of square, you have to square the 1st full tile off of the wall. So if you have a 12” border, the next tile in the room you will have to make square. I hope that makes sense. So run two mains and snap in the Ts then then square those Ts and you should be fine.
We sure do! We call them wag clips, or we cut mains and screw them into the wall and then run a screw through the main on the wall and main on the grid. I really like using wag clips when we do 9/16" gird because its really hard to get the rivet into the main or T.
@@randyledbetter4529 I haven't, I heard from national GC's that its more of a seismic requirement not to rivet so that the ceiling can have room to move. But we've always at least riveted both mains and one wall of T's, or we'll use the way clips if the architect specs them.
Are commercial units with ceilings like this fully separated by floor to ceiling walls or are they like cubicle style once you get above this tile roof you’re building? And I know commercial is a broad brush, I’m referring to strip malls where it’s a single grid.
When re doing a ceiling and tie wires are in concrete but old lay out wasn’t centered will same tie Waite work or should you run new wire right above the new grid layout
I currently have a drop ceiling installed in my salon making the ceiling only 8/ 9 feet tall which we have high ceilings above so plenty of room to move it up by 2-4 feet. Is it possible to raise the grid or would we have to remove the entire grid to do so?
Gilberto Faria for the studs, I don’t put the screws in. You absolutely can, BUT sometimes when you suck the screw in the stud and wall angle it makes any of the surrounding screws pop. So I choose not too. Hope this answers your question.
I have a question. Where do you set the jetline, in the middle of the main or on the edge?
Milton Martinez personally I like the middle on 9/16” grid and either way on the 15/16” grid. I don’t think you can go wrong with either, just a preference. Just remember which side you set it so that you don’t go center one end and side on the other end. Sounds silly but it happens every so often. Thanks for the question.👍
Side of main ts
I use string sometimes a laser on floor
add half inch and go outside a line it for 15/16 but 9/16 add 1/4 inch
outside edge for best results, it takes the guess work out of it.
I’m a journeyman carpenter who specializes in acoustical ceilings and I will recommend this video to all of my apprentices that want to learn the basics of ceilings. Great video to learn the basic techniques.
I appreciate it! When I made it, I had apprentices in mind and what I would have had questions on. That’s how I attack most of my videos.
That was the most self explanatory video I've seen thank you sir
Glad we could help!
@@mitchellacoustical3119 a little over 6 years late for a question but im interested for the acoustic side of this...and is there a way to put lights and still have sound reduction ?? thanks
Great professional job, straight to the heart of this installation, you are a solid teacher.
I owned an acoustical company in California and installed ceilings for 40 years. Your video pretty much covers it all. A few minor tips: Put the jet line on the edge of the main. You don't have to eyeball the center of the main that way. Set the laser at ceiling level and lose the laser target. When you are cranking the wire down to level, put your free hand over the main as you have to anyway to pull it down as you level it. The laser will sweep across your hand so you can easily tell when to tie off the wire. The laser will also give you a sort of chalk line to set the wall angle to. The target is a major pain to use on wall angle. The target just adds steps and is always falling on the floor. Last tip is lay out your wires so they can be tied to the grid at the intersection of the main and cross tee and the wires will be plumb. It makes installing the tile much quicker. Time is money. Be glad that you don't have to install grid in California. Earthquake codes! Good video! Jerry
Jerry, I’m glad I don’t have to install for California either! I’ve heard those codes are nuts. I appreciate the feed back, only thing I’ll say on the jet line to the side is some times if the ceiling and line are at the same height the jetline can get caught in the cross T and snag it. So some days I’ll go center some days I’ll do it to the side of the main. I don’t have a hard stance on that. Appreciate the feedback👍
those are all things i was taught by a grumpy 40+ years in the game guy too :)
@@klevrah Grumpy???
Excellent advice . Thank you sir!
Put the laser card on a long "necklace" around your neck. It's always in reach even if it comes off the grid.
been a carpenter for 7 years, havent had a whole lot of experience in grid, this is lighting up how to install it a bit better, , thanks kevin!!!
Glad I could help!
The robot legs are my biggest takeaway. So cool! Also a good video
A week into my first year apprenticeship in commercial construction and they have me helping with installing dropped ceilings, 8 videos in and this is the first one that explains the process the 4th year journeyman uses to layout the grid. ( Is a joke, he has enough experience and hours to be journeymen, but he's still a 4th year)
Nice video it's been awhile since I did this, I needed a refresher. Reading other comments I don't understand why they are confused about this video, your instructions are plain and simple. Thank you
Glad we could help, I appreciate the feedback
Thumbs up in first 30 seconds! Thanks for showing the components. Helpful for us who have never done this.
Thank you! Yea we figured it be a good idea to break it down instead of just jumping into it.👍
God bless you so much my dear friend. This is so great your English is so clear and you explained step by steps
Thank you👍
from seeing 2 different and big manufacturer videos to what an installer will do, you simplified it and made it easier to understand and the rules to follow to have a good square ceiling. thanks
Absolutely, glad we could help. Thanks for the comment👍
Great video! I have to rehang a drop ceiling today for the first time. Your video and explanation make me feel like I can do it right the first time! Thanks for making this!
Glad we could help!
Excellent video. No fluff. Good teacher.
Thank you👍
I love the way that he explains detail for detail very good video he definitely knows what he's talking about thank you
Glad we could help.
As an architect in training, love to see it!
Thanks man for taking the time to make the video.
You're welcome!
Well today, I will start my install. I am more confident that I watched this video 3 times. I can't wait to get off from work and start.
You got it
Good luck. But this guy is more confusing than others I watched..let us know how you did
@@scottstone1475 actually it was the most easiest explained.
I’m glad I watched this whole video. I realize I can not do this myself 😢😂
Oh no! 😱
Thanks man, very informative and easy to follow.
Glad we could help!
Thank you so much for posting this! I have a building in which i want to redo the foyer. The only issues are the grid cieling has to come out and i wasnt sure if i could create a mechanism with a steel cable to hang things.
After seeing this? Given my dimensions and plans, what i need is already there! 😊 This is so perfectly "inline" with what im hoping to do, its uncannily perfect. Other than 1 or 2 adjustnents in my engineering ive got to make that actually make life easier, youve just given me an ideal proof of concept!
Between that and seeing where your located, ill take that as a good omen. 😊 thx!
Hey glad we could help! There is a drywall grid video as well that we did. You could do that for your foyer as well. 👍
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Thanks! I didn't think that was of any use to me till I was trying to figure something out. So I'm glad you mentioned it as that might solve an issue I'm trying to figure.
When you hang that grid, you've got 18 or 20 gauge wire hanging from above. What exactly is that attached to? Secondly, how far apart are those things spaced? If I've got to add more hanger wire, so be it. I don't know what the standard distance is between hanger wires.
The reason I ask? If I use dry wall, weight distribution to which doesn't look like it's going to be an issue given what you've said and I've found. Secondly, thats my nodes in structural terms.
Thanks again! 👍
This is very well explained and demonstrated. I commend your hard work!
Thank you! About to do an office myself, this is extremely helpful!
Excellent instructional video by a mechanic not a do it your selfer! My preferred way of fastening wall angle into dry wall is fence staples or tension pins.
My dad was the same way. I tried the staples back in my apprentice days and hated busting up my thumb.👍
My dad was the same way. I tried the staples back in my apprentice days and hated busting up my thumb.👍
How about nailing wall angle with 4d cut nails in cmu’s, now that’s a thumb buster! 😀
Hey friend. Awesome video.
Very informative.
One common mispronounced word...taunt or tont for tight or stretched is actually spelled TAUT and pronounced taught.
I used to mis pronounce it too. Lol.
Yes, that word trips me up all the time! Good catch👍
we are planning to replace an original old tile ceiling with a suspended ceiling in basement of a 60 yr old home . this video was very helpful in learning how the project will unfold. We're having a contractor do the work however its useful to know what the installation process is all about. We have yet to decide on the lighting, as pot lights were too expensive.
Thank very much for your informative video. And most importantly, you have time to answer every question..
Go on thumb up
Thank you!
U make it look so simple bro and u gave me some good tips more drop ceiling ideas plz!
Thank you! Yea we get to them when something tricky comes up, we’ll have more in the future👍
Wow, that is amazing how you put that ceiling up..Damm you are talented!
Thank you👍
Nice video man keep up the good work !
Thank you!
Thanks for creating this learning video.Liked your passion behind this creation. I had learnt from your video to ensure the Level of the Ceiling using Laser card and bending the wire using the pliers. I also read in one of the comments whether the sting line to be positioned on the center of the Main Tee or side of the Main Tee. For me both will work, as far as the installer does the basics right. Another observation, the suspension wire used was directly cut from the coil. Probably Pre-straightened would be better for achieving quality installation.
Thanks!
mike I like your video
have anice day
I do acoustical ceilings long time ago
you are a good person
Thank you
this is a very simple and good video of learning the basics of installation of ACT grid......thanks a lot for sharing.
Thank you!
Congratulations good job and teaching.
Thank you!
Excellent video my friend!
Your video was very well done! Thank you.
Thank you - we appreciate it!
I’m looking for a good grid punch. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Excellent video by the way
All the punches are similar. I’d go to a supply house rather than HD or menards. They’ll have better than homeowner quality
Do you have video on how you actually tie ur jet line string? I usually use cut off grid but I like the way you do that
it would be highly appreciated if you can post your tools. such as puncher & rivets tools. for beginners like me, this is the first time in my life seeing someone use a puncher & rivets tools.
On vacation right now, I’ll list them out below next week for you sometime
@@mitchellacoustical3119 thank u! enjoy ur vacation!
Little trick a ceiling guy taught me for layout is to count the number of fulls and multiply by two pull the number from the wall mark and measure the remainder from the other wall and divide by two pull that number from the wall and every four foot are your mains
Very informative video. You are a great teacher. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
thanks for your excellent video? a question how much is the range per square foot installation, labor only
I wish I had been smart enough to watch this video 3 years ago when I first entered the wall and ceiling trade. My first few weeks would have gone sooooo much better haha
Ha! Don't we all? I don't remember even thinking of using youtube when I was starting out. Glad we could help!
@@mitchellacoustical3119 it helped a lot I did a bit of t-bar at the beginning as a total greenhorn flash forward to now and just got a new job at a much higher rate by claiming that I could totally install t-bar when I really only have real experience with steel studs. Just had my first day today and thanks to your vid I threw up a bunch of grid and new boss was pleased. Thanks for making this video and explaining it all in a way that's easy to get. Seriously.
I'm in this situation today and I'm not gonna lie I'm nervous 😬
You make it look so easy 😅
What do you do to connect a cross t to the wall that doesn't need to be cut, its exactly the right size but there isnt any bottom metal overlapping to the wall frame pieces.... I got nothing to rivet to
You probably have to shift the grid either 1/2” over to do it or 12” so you split a tile in half of the grid line
My friend: the best video I watched
Very informative, I'm a handyman and I'm about to take a job like this, never done it, I was a little nervous about it but you make it really easy, my question is pricing, can you give me a rough idea of how much to charge?
My estimator knows our pricing, but with ceilings it’s double your material. So if your material is 1000, then then your labor would be 1000 for a total of 2000. Or at least that how I used to estimate it. Hope that helps.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 thanks for your reply 🙏
Thanks for explaining all of this.
Great video and straight to the point.
Thank you!
Earlier you mentioned running mains along the short axis but did opposite in the installation. Any reason?
Might have been the room I was in. The joists were running opposite of where they needed to run in this particular case. We had chosen this room ahead as it had good lighting but this question comes up time to time.
Thanks. This was an excellent explanation. I will be putting up about 1,000 sq ft of 2’x2’ panels in our basement. I’ve already chosen a USG panel I want to go with. Any recommendations for a grid manufacturer (USG vs Armstrong) or a generic and are there any differences in the quality, etc? Thanks.
Usg, Armstrong or Chicago metallic are the brands we usually use. They’ll all have the same install, the stab tabs may be a little different. I can’t speak on any off brands as they wouldn’t be spec’d on our projects.
Love this video , has helped me tons
Awesome thanks good to know u remind me of the Boss I had that taught me ceilings
Great video. Can you demostrate a diagonal Act grid?
Yea we can. Usually we wait till that scenario comes up. Might take a while unless one comes up here soon. I’ll put it on our request board for now.
Great tutorial video,I only have one question I'm doing a repair and several of the hanging wires were cut in half, is it ok to splice wires allowed by code?
This is a great question! I would say you have to look at state code and what’s acceptable. We’ve never had an issue splicing and tying a square knot. We made a video on this on our channel called ‘using a slip knot to extend ceiling tile wire’
Great video! I'd love to know what brand and model of laser you're using. The one I have is absolutely no where near as easy to use.
That laser I used was a dewalt 3 line laser. They’re about 500 or so. You can find decent ones around 300.
Hey, could you do a video on how to “jack up” or “jack down” your mains on the wire? It would help me ALOT...p.s. thanks for all of your videos they have helped me so much
We can absolutely do that! We can't guarantee that we'll get to it right away but hopefully in the very near future. Glad to hear the videos have helped you!
Thanks for the informative video. Can you please tell how to remove a tee from already installed grid. I have tried but they seemed locked or something
I will make this video
Great video thank you , just a question , can u install a few tiles temporarily in the middle in order to square them easier ?
I wouldn’t suggest squaring this way. Tile has some play in them.
How do you do angle run ceiling. Where it’s not straight side to side but in an angle?
If there are any 90 degree corners you’d start there. If not pick a tile boarder number and just run that number from end to end.
Great explanation 👌🏽
On big ceilings do u stagger your mains joint, or keep them the same? I hear different methods from different sources. One says stagger for strength, manufacturer says it’s not needed
Is there any benefit to floating the ceiling vs. designing a room in 2'/4' increments so that the tiles end exactly aligned to the walls? Is there an efficiency or cost/material savings between one verses the other?
Hmm, I guess you could but that would be very constrictive to the architect drawing the layout. Most people don’t look at ceilings. Just as long as they have equal boarders, like say 6” around the perimeter or something.
Hey, great video! Where did you get that red magnetic guide to help set your height?
I think they come with the lasers now. Should come with a dewalt laser, or any supply shop. I think I got my from PLS.
How do you attach the string to the wall angle to make a main runner Straight
You can slip the string behind the wall angle and screw it above and pull it tight. I may have to make a video on this.
This is a very good video and I enjoyed watching it, but I am confused about how much to trim off of the main tees and centering everything. Years ago, my father and I installed two suspended ceilings in my home and they turned-out great, but I don't remember how we laid-out the grid work. The room I will be working on will be in a bathroom and the walls are concrete.
Do these rules apply for smaller rooms, like a 7.5 x 6? I have a small bathroom I want to do but always find videos for larger rooms. I would assume the same technique applies?
Yea it would all work. Should try and center the light. So you’d lay it out with center tile in mind.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 for sure. Thanks brother!
What do you do if you accidentaly pop a rivet in the wrong place?
And what's your method of fastening the line thread? Ive always used laser but resorted to line thread when its a long corridor/too much light.. I just feel like there must be some smart easy way to fasten it compared to my struggle to get it up behind the wall molding
Usually we drill out the rivet and then caulk it. It’s very rare that it happens.
The jet-line we use a screw and tie a knot above the ceiling. Also it doesn’t need to be on the center of the T or side of the T, as long as you keep the spacing to the jetline the same you should be fine.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 yeah thats what i also do, fastening it to a screw, then getting it behind the trim and out in the room.. Such a hassle. Because of bad eyesight, my depth vision screw up and i cant see calculate correctly if i put the string above the main runner..
But i also add half the runner's width to make it parallell to the edge, so much easier on the eyes, and less hassle to measure every T profile when locking in the diagonal.
I really like your practice of carrying less tools though. Ive thrown away my rulers in advantage of measure tape only, i hate distance lasers with a passion when im done finding the room's length and width.
I like that im not the only one measuring the main runner that way.. Everyone else use the laser measure for everything
nice video and straighforward. greetings from the Gods. 😊
Hey! May I ask where did you get the leg extension equipment from?
Starting off i was told to run mains the longest run or as you said; the least amount of material. Been getting lucky doing that for a long time until one day I ran around popping wire this way and ended up doing four huge rooms before my boss caught me. The mains actually goes across the short side of those four foot lights.
Sure but the wire can dictate how to run them as well. In this instance we had to work around some ductwork. So we try and get best use case.
Another question I have. When you start riveting do you start 4 ft from the wall ? Then skip one and one ? Or can you start riveting anywhere ?
Well the mains are the pieces that have to be riveted starting out, then yes adjacent to the main I usually start somewhere around 4’ and then skip to the next T 4’ away. When you’re riveting Ts they will always be 2’ or 4’ apart but you only need to rivet them every 4’. Hope this makes sense.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 When you said around 4' does that mean 4' away from the wall? or just anywhere ?
Nice instructions what’s up with the rivets? Use wire and tie back above ceiling height eliminates unsightly rivets.
Used rivets only in tight corners were grid won’t lock.
Local 1016 Muncie Indiana
We use rivets to lock in the ceiling. Or wag clips for 9/16. Local 250 Lake Co IL
Would raising an existing drop ceiling be similar? is there an "easy" way to bump it up? Is it possible to raise just part of a ceiling in a room, or do they always have to come straight across level?
4” to 6” maybe you got a chance but higher than that it’s tough
Hi Mitchell , excellent video and presentation .
I have installed few times before small suspended ceiling decade back with no any problems , but something strange happen right now , the installation of 24" x24 " USG drop in ceiling tiles , the Main T bar I can't divide equally in a room size 12'x24' , I have always 3 " on ether side off from equal from center where cross bar 24" suppose to be locked in to Main T bar 12' long , no matter how I divide main T bar I have always on one side 3" difference in size of tile .
Could you please explain , does different T bar is required , how to equally divide tiles on a room 12'x 24' with a 12" main T Bar ?
Thanks a lot , cheers :)
plutoniusis thank you for the question. Now if I reading it correctly all you would have to do if the room is truly 12’x24’ is cut the Main on the slot line. Those slot lines are 6” apart and we know that 2 of those slot lines would make 1’. So that being said cut on a slot line and you should have equal 24” boarder along the entire field and perimeter. You can start with your main being 24” c off the wall or 48” center and start with cutting the slot line and that should do it. Let me know if that works👍
@@mitchellacoustical3119 , salute Mitchell , , I went quick in basement again to check what's wrong with measurement , I can not establish that parameter , the beginning of the 12' main T bar has first interlocking spot at 3" and then every 6" , that means that first tile should be interlocked at 27" , so we continue to have that 3" difference and on the end tiles can not be equally sized , yes room is 12' wide and 24' long , , even if locking part are cut off , it does make any difference .
Is there other T bar 12' long with all locking holes divided 6" from a start to end , so full tiles could be installed .
Thanks a lot for your input , Good night :)
Yes the 12’ long main comes with the slot starting 3” off each end. So take your snips and cut only from one end on the slot line. Then take that 3” piece you just cut off the one side and connect it to the un-cut side. (So now you have a main 12’ long, with the first slot starting at 6”)
Hang the main and go.
Real simple
@@Chusch25 Or better yet just run a 12" border and not worry about making full tiles hit, that is if the lights work out. it's a basement right?
chris Rosenthal yeah exactly what I was getting at
Hi bro. if you don't mind I got a concrete walls is there another way to glued wall holders. Please reply and thanks
You’d have to use tapcons or a type of nail for concrete
Boss wants me to go up and start installing this. how do i put the jetline in when i put it in the mold?
I usually tie the jetline to a rivet(double knot it) then take pliers and put that rivet end in between the drywall and molding. Beware that it can scratch the drywall but we’re the tapers too so it doesn’t matter on our end. Hope this helps👍
Question? I've removed a wall and now there is a width of wall missing from existing ceiling tile . I'd say about 9". How do join the two halves together? Thanks Jay.
What did u use to bend the wire
Very informative thanks for the video
Glad we could help!
Hi,could you please tell me where to get these legs extension that you used in the video?
I think they’re durastilt or marshalltown
Kevin, how do you handle out-of-square rooms? I have a room about 11x12 but one wall is 4" longer.
I’m not sure what you mean by 4’ longer, but I can answer your out of sq question. When youre out of square, you have to square the 1st full tile off of the wall. So if you have a 12” border, the next tile in the room you will have to make square. I hope that makes sense. So run two mains and snap in the Ts then then square those Ts and you should be fine.
I enjoyed your video. do you ever install ceilings without pop rivets?
We sure do! We call them wag clips, or we cut mains and screw them into the wall and then run a screw through the main on the wall and main on the grid. I really like using wag clips when we do 9/16" gird because its really hard to get the rivet into the main or T.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Have you ever cut in tight? No fasteners of any kind.
@@randyledbetter4529 I haven't, I heard from national GC's that its more of a seismic requirement not to rivet so that the ceiling can have room to move. But we've always at least riveted both mains and one wall of T's, or we'll use the way clips if the architect specs them.
Well done. Good explanation.
Thank you!
So why is it so hard to push the tiles up? And then get them back down when I'm running cable above a T-bar ceiling?
Are commercial units with ceilings like this fully separated by floor to ceiling walls or are they like cubicle style once you get above this tile roof you’re building? And I know commercial is a broad brush, I’m referring to strip malls where it’s a single grid.
This was for a concrete testing facility. Walls didn’t need to go to the deck. I think just 16’
Hey i got a question is 52 1/4 the same for 9 /16 super fine grid?
No it wouldn’t be. I don’t remember the number off hand. If we do 9/16 soon I’ll post it
When re doing a ceiling and tie wires are in concrete but old lay out wasn’t centered will same tie Waite work or should you run new wire right above the new grid layout
I depends. A little of the centerline is fine but if you’re pulling it and it’s strongly pulling on the grid you should put up new wires
Please what is the manufacturing length of the wall angle and cross tee?
The angle is 12’ and the Ts are 2’ or 4’
Can you buy hardware to lay the grid out in 4 x 8 squares?
No, you can just not put in the 4’ Ts.
I currently have a drop ceiling installed in my salon making the ceiling only 8/ 9 feet tall which we have high ceilings above so plenty of room to move it up by 2-4 feet. Is it possible to raise the grid or would we have to remove the entire grid to do so?
I’m not sure that would be cost effective? You can re use the tile. But grid is inexpensive.
you were sayingg main should on shortest distance, least materials, but why did you choose north to south? which should longer distance in the room.
On typical grid but I had to cross hatch because of the way the bar joists were aligned
Excellent... Thank YOU!
How di I block off the end opening near staircase?
I am a little confused the screw in the wall angle have to be in the stocks or I have to avoid the stocks?
Gilberto Faria for the studs, I don’t put the screws in. You absolutely can, BUT sometimes when you suck the screw in the stud and wall angle it makes any of the surrounding screws pop. So I choose not too. Hope this answers your question.
what did you use to attach the wall angle to the wall?
1-1/4 fine thread screws
Great job teaching yho just save me
Glad we could help!
Ceilings used to be this easy , now with the crazy lightning designs and diffusers , it's cuts up the whole ceiling .
Tell me about it! We just had to do a consealed system with trims and diffusers in a few conference rooms. I think each tile was 2’x8’
What are you walking on? Never seen those before.
I believe they’re Marshalltown stilts. They only made them for a few years. I really liked them
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Thanks, good info. Did a search for them - they seem to be called Drywall Stilts now.
Thanks, so I will know what they are doing to my ceiling.