How to Climb Overhangs: Techniques + Skills
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2017
- A Demonstrative Tutorial on Techniques and Physical Capabilities for Climbing Overhanging Problems, held in the usual comprehensive, information-dense style.
There isn't really one single key technique which is going to solve all overhanging problems easily. Rather there's a conglomerate of different techniques and physical capabilities which, when used appropriately, will make climbing overhangs easier. Important techniques are amongst others the Backstep and Hooks, while important physical capabilities are Body Strength/Core and Upper Body Strength.
Please don't forget to drop some likes and opinions if you've got something from the video, it helps a lot, thank you for your attention, and I'll see you soon!
How To Climb Overhangs : Techniques And Skills by Mani the Monkey
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Highly requested and finally done! Although I think there's a bit more to it than shown in this quick video I think it covers the basics quite well, hope you guys got something from it!
Any chance of part 2
Thanks
this is the best I've ever seen!
1:51 "lower back and ass" lol just funny how you say it.
great videos, thanks
Didn't expect it lmao
lower back and aaAASSssSSss
Yeah that made me laugh real hard lol
*Äs*
Does he also say lateral ass after?
1:49 from the lower back and AYASSS
Love the way this guy says “ass” with his accent
Mega Climbing Demigod :D 5:40 Thank you for the video!
he's so humble
haha I couldn't resist :P
The move at 7:09 demonstrating how to keep your COG close to the wall to assist reaching for the next hold helped me significantly in understanding this concept. These videos are exceptional and greatly appreciated.
Always really like the biomechanical or physics-based breakdowns of technique that you do, keep it up :)
I try my best :D
Everyone talks about how climbing is such a "skill sport" but youtubers only talk about strength training and rarely talk about skill. Thanks for helping fill some of the gap here :)
Strength plays a big part too.. you cant really have really good technique and be very weak and unfit. You will be limited by your abilities
It has a lot of different aspects not just strength and technique. There's balance, diet, time dedication, and mental strength just to name a few.
Seeing the physics breakdown of how force gets applied differently when your hips are in vs out was super helpful. I think this is the first explanation of "hips in" that actually made it click for me. Thanks!
I've been avoiding overhangs like the plague, gonna try these techniques out!
Thanks, Mani! Awesome vlog on the basics that I had overlooked some of. I always appreciate your wisdom and experience! They are so valuable!
Great episode Mani, I like how you describe the directional forces applied when climbing really helps me understand how to apply force when climbing, the comparisons are great too, really showing the positive attributes of the correct technique
Thanks for the tip on coming out of an overhang. That is a huge weakness of mine, and now a great reason to start practicing more hooks! Love your videos and explanations: keep it up!
"Important physical capabilities: Basically everything" :D
Thanks, will improve on that :D
This is a great video. You speak very eloquently and how you structure the tutorial is done very well. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Thank you :)
This video blowed my mind! Thank you Mani.
high quality tips as always, thanks Mani!
amazing video as always. thank you so much for these technique videos!
Wonderful video, thank you for the detailed instructions !
This is the video I was looking for. Thanks!
wow, the akeboshi wind ending suprised me!
It answers lots of my questions! Kudos!
Dear Mani thank you for your inspiring videos!
Great help, needed to hear about body tension and go for more hooks
Thanks for help -- extremely helpful and enlightening.
Great videos you have. This one as well. Compliments to the editing as it is both comforting in the sense of the feeling of space for the viewer and simplistic underlinement of your crusial point. Bravo, sir.
Don'tever change you accent too, your english is great, good vocabulary, gramma, so on, but I love your accent, man.
Thanks for helping newcomers to this sport.
Thank you for the video. wonderful as always
Huge help, thanks!
Thanks! Very nice tutorial.
Thank you so much for this video!
Thank you Mani! Can't wait to start climbing! Got the bug BIG TIME! ! !
Thanks for the tips!
Nice explanation, thank you.
Fantastic video thanks man!
Thanks for your help!
Hi Mani, I watched an ad for you! Love the content
Great Video =) Very well explained and nicely filmed! Loved it! You could say as well that you need to use your toes like a claw and pull with it to the wall =) this makes an amazing difference!
Your videos have been such a great resource for me and my man. We recently started climb and immediately became hooked. Your videos provide us with a greater knowledge and have proven to be super helpful while climbing out doors. Keep them coming!
I'm glad that stuff is useful, I will!
Haha, same!
Great video! Thank you, Mani! I have been attempting overhangs on and off, and I have noticed that the back step has helped a lot when I think to try it. I have not yet been brave enough to try a hook, though! I will try it when I get over being chicken, haha! Thanks, again!
"Mega Climbing Demigod" XD
Love it
Yes thank you . Thank youuu
Great training vid!
Thank you!!
thanks, Mani!
Nice and informative video. Good work
Thanks for the Vid, always seem to watch them over a cup of tea and some fruit in the morning. Good breakfast watching! keep it up :)
Thank you sensei!
So well explained. I really start to dig your channel. Also keeps me stoked to go out there and just climb better. Thanks for sharing, Keep up the good work. :)
Was a pleasure to me, I will!
Great video!
great video!
You're awesome Mani! btw, just trying to be helpful - we would say in english at ~2:10 "It will result in a body very close to the wall which is advanTAYgious in the majority of the cases."
Keep it up dude, you're an inspiration and I'd love to climb with you someday :)
Actually laughed out loud at the "Mega Climbing Demigod"
Love how you slip that kinda thing in there :P
I couldn't resist :P
"Mega climbing demigod." @5:30. Loving it.
Awesome!
nice stuff, your channel is very helpful :)
best vid yet braaaah
Great videos!
Useful !
i adore your humor :)
Very Nice and precise instructions. Now I know what I need to work on (core and back strength to push my butt closer to the wall). I saw immediate improvement and was able to transfer much of the weight to the legs. Hooks are still my weak point and need work. But hey, improving technique and surprising yourself to find what much more you can achieve is the best part of this sport.
Looking forward to the next video
Very glad to hear you've got something from the vid, keep up the training!
thanks for the tips! now my turn to get back on the wall and send my project!
Great video!
Since you are taking suggestions for next episodes, can I ask for "coordination moves"? Whenever there is a dynamic move that requires quick switching of hands or shifting the weight while catching a hold?
I will definitely talk about some of this in a "dyno technique" episode, in the future. Need to practice a bit myself though, since that's not really my strength :)
Great video! I wish I watched this video 5 year ago.... It would have saved me a lot usuless training back then....
Awesome video, I've learnt a lot!
Glad to hear that!
Thanks for the tips! I have a suggestion for the next video. I would really appreciate if you could make a video about mental side of climbing, right mindset and dealing with fear of falling.
The fear of falling is on my list for a long time already, gotta get to it.
Looking forward to it!
You reduce fear of anything by experiencing it many, many times.
Only look at the wall in front of you.
Also, kick negative thoughts out of your mind. Positive thoughts and joy shut out fear.
Manis the man
Your thumbnails are the fucking best haha, great video
Mega climbing Demigod!! 😀😀
it's my worst weakness and i need ti work that. Thank's for your tuto :)
Was a pleasure to me, keep up the training!
you re-grip so much Mani!
6:40 Adam Ondra and his godlike kneebars disagree with that statement :D
Hey mani, can we see more videos of you doing some bouldering problems?
Nice
Hi Mani. I appreciate your videos tremendously. But I can’t seem to find a video about real cave overhang climbing, or however it’s called. I mean, roofs. I guess it’s a blend of compression, toes and heel hooks and other overhang techniques, but I’d really like to hear your about it!! Thanks
Love how "and ass" seems to be the most replayed timestamp lmao
Can you have the same progress with a vertical wall or it's necessary to train on incline wall ? Thank's men
lol @ "mega climbing demigod" ..good one
I want a whole video of you just saying ass 🍑😂 MADE MY DAY!!
I really like the 'Mega Climbing Demigod', idk why lol
Hi there, thanks for this video, I really like all your vids! There's something about overhangs I find confusing. I understand Twisting and backstepping, but so many of the "good" examples in this video show you with hips away from the wall. What's the difference between bad hips away from wall and good hips away from wall? Is it really a difference of straight vs bent legs? Do you mean just being close to the wall during a move? Examples of this cognitive dissonance is at 1:20, 1:27, 3:36, 4:41, 6:43. Ok yea, after looking at those moments vs the "beginner" example, I see straight legs shooting the bum out even more vs bent legs that can twist into a backstep easily. Let me know if I'm missing anything
Drop knee is important too
I really enjoy the B Roll at the start of these videos, what camera do you use to film?
I use a Sony Cybershot RX100 III, link to the exact model in the description.
Awesome, Thanks dude! I am loving the content at the moment
I've been trying to train my fingers a lot more. I've kind of been stuck around V2 boulders and 5.9+ sport climbs due to not having great finger strength for crimps and over hangs. I finally got a hang board at my house to work on my grip so I can do longer and more difficult routes.
Honestly, if V2 boulders are a problem, then it's basic technique that's holding you back. If it's really a lack of strength, that strength should quickly come from just climbing. For comparison, I do V7 boulders and yet my sports climbing isn't that much better than yours. The reason is that my footwork could be better, I suck at clipping and I get a little too anxious past 10m or so.
The crimps you run across in overhanging V3 or V4 boulders should both be pretty rare and if they come up there should be opportunities for your feet to take off most of the weight. Might be back steps and hooks as mentioned in the video, could also be drop knees. If you are actually forced to pull hard on crimps with your hips square against the wall in a steep overhang, it's simply not a V3.
No mention of knee drop ? Helps a lot in staying close to the wall
Definitely want to be a mega climbing demigod! I will keep my body straight and hips to the wall!
5:27 "Mega Climbing Demigod" lol
The main issue I have with overhangs seems to be a mental block. I don't have any problem with heights or falling, but I do get a sudden sense of panic when feeling that sensation of myself leaning back. Even slab with an ever so slight lean back will make me freak out. I know that my physical strength isn't really there for proper overhangs yet, but I really would like to get over the fear block. Anyone else?
Thanks for this very astute observation, which makes me compare your case to my own climbing. I'll present my situation then compare it to yours with an idea of how to get over the fear block, but as always, take with a grain of salt. I'm the opposite from you. I did calisthenics for years before I started climbing 10 months ago. So I came with both upper body strength and motor skills. I'm also getting over a severe vision disorder where my eyes' focusing system does not work, which produces compensatory head movements, eye movements, and body movements to attempt to focus the eyes without the need for the lens to change shape. The result is that my balance is severely compromised, which makes standing upright on my feet wobbly at best, and pushing off my feet extremely difficult. I get a huge fear block on vertical climbs, and physically am and feel unstable as I get higher. But because of my experience in calisthenics and my upper body strength and control in a non-vertical position (where the balance system in the body needs to work less hard), I am beginning to LOVE cave and steep overhang, including boards. I enjoy the lean-back body position, and the steeper it is, the closer to horizontal, the less it is about balance and more it is about the motor skills I already have in the upper body, which means I feel more comfortable the steeper the overhang. I've tried wholeheartedly to get over the vertical fear block in a pure sense, but I find that my mindset can only compensate so much for my lack of practice and physical mastery due to my condition. So I am now focused almost solely on steep overhang where the fall trajectory and angle is predictable, and Im comfy in that position, and have accepted that with just a few vert sessions dotted around that, I will be able to transfer the use of my legs from overhang to vertical terrain, without forcing the vertical terrain until my visual stability and balance improves. I've acknowledged that the mind and body are not separate, that my lack of mastery of vert will likely lead to more emotion of fear in vert, and vice versa for overhang. I wonder if the same applies in your case - that instead of trying to go purely psychological with getting over the fear block, it might be more useful to practice the physical skills that would reduce the usefulness of fear as a tool used by your brain in the first place. For example, intentional fall practice while leaning back to make that automatic. Or - some gradual finger strength training acknowledging the fact that finger strength while exerting pressure leaning back, is a specific skill. Your fear response is probably your brain telling you valid information on things you need to work on 80% of the time, then 20% of the time it's necessary to just work up that psych and do things despite fear. That's how I look at at anyway - to see fear as valid and preventable through training 80% of the time, then 20% of the time necessary to train away fear itself. Take with a grain of salt - this was just what came to mind for me since your post really resonated.
cool
"Mega Climbing DemiGod" LOOOL JAJAJA
Overhangs with top rope......fun time 😂
“ you’ll often see dat ass hanging out” 5:02 lol
It sucks that there's no links to the videos he's talking about in referencing to for techniques
Hey, Mani, greetings from russia!
Got a question. I see, you training only on overhangs.
Do you feel, that it covers all your needs in terms of climbing, and prepares you for outdoors?
I myself am thinking of installing a moonboard at home and forgetting about the gym, so it'll be great to know what you think=)
My honest opinion about it is that the overhang will make you most likely stronger in general, and also for outdoors. Especially if you incorporate some dynos here and there. Everytime when I needed technique for slabs or any other special stuff I learned it in the problem or the place itself.
What about the knee drop?
👍
My gym only has overhangs nad slabs, no tegular vertical wall
04:33 Adam Ondra has entered the chat
You ever thinking of going to Sweden and try climbing in doors there? Thats all I am thinking about when I see you climb those dirty holds ^^
yeah! you should go to klattercentret telephonplan in sweden. The hardest climbing route in the world is there.
What about climbing, on doors!
1:02 walfischgasse ?
1:51