I think the only time I actually move into solvent adhesives is when I'm adding 'non leather' components into a product. Like fabrics, synthetics, and plastics. (I.D. shields, non leather liners and the lycra polyester attached to zippers.) Largely my reasoning is: #1 It's a stringy mess to work with and gets everywhere. #2. The vapor and smell are annoying to work over as it dries. #3. The dried, rubbery cement leaves coated friction streaks on my hand Dremel heads making them useless. If this is *YOU*, stick with Seiwa because it applies like thick toothpaste, is easier to manipulate and dries into strong, clear chalk. There aren't any dark friction burns along your edges or gaps where dye can't get through. I like to dye my edges before burnishing and solvent adhesives resist leaving blemishes. Cheers Tim! 🍺👍
Tim: The piece of crepe works wonders to remove solvent based adhesives. The newer Italian and German waterbased adhesives leave really ugly stains where they touch the grain of the leather. I have been trying to pre treat my grain side with leather balm. (Smiths?) That seems to lessen the marking that the waterbased adhesive creates when touching it. See if it does the same for you. I mostly use Italian Buttero leather and plain old unfinished veg tanned leather for my projects. Also, anywhere the waterbased adhesive touches it changes how the leather absorbs any finish. I haven't seen any other people address this.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods It is just I am a little sloppy with my glue. Glue applied to flesh side. Tiny bits stick to my fingers and get transfered to the grain side. Annoying that I cannot be more careful. I use exclusively veg tanned. Mostly Buttero.
I have found that an eraser works really well.
I think the only time I actually move into solvent adhesives is when I'm adding 'non leather' components into a product. Like fabrics, synthetics, and plastics. (I.D. shields, non leather liners and the lycra polyester attached to zippers.) Largely my reasoning is: #1 It's a stringy mess to work with and gets everywhere. #2. The vapor and smell are annoying to work over as it dries. #3. The dried, rubbery cement leaves coated friction streaks on my hand Dremel heads making them useless.
If this is *YOU*, stick with Seiwa because it applies like thick toothpaste, is easier to manipulate and dries into strong, clear chalk. There aren't any dark friction burns along your edges or gaps where dye can't get through. I like to dye my edges before burnishing and solvent adhesives resist leaving blemishes.
Cheers Tim! 🍺👍
Just Try synthetic vinegar or paraffin wax... I saw it somewhere.. But not tried.. Try glycerin+alcohol solution too😜.... Baby oil also
Would those not stain the leather??
Tim: The piece of crepe works wonders to remove solvent based adhesives. The newer Italian and German waterbased adhesives leave really ugly stains where they touch the grain of the leather. I have been trying to pre treat my grain side with leather balm. (Smiths?) That seems to lessen the marking that the waterbased adhesive creates when touching it. See if it does the same for you. I mostly use Italian Buttero leather and plain old unfinished veg tanned leather for my projects. Also, anywhere the waterbased adhesive touches it changes how the leather absorbs any finish. I haven't seen any other people address this.
I never thought of that but that's a really good idea. I find tokonole stains a bit if you aren't careful too.
😂, great tip......and a good laugh.
Thx ...
Glad you enjoyed it!
Roflmao, I was about to type about the rubber adhesive remover when know it all Tim piped in
I hate that guy 😂
Dude that other Tim is a know it all!
Hahaha oh god man. He's the worst!
So I’m guessing don’t do this on the unfinished side? It just stuck to the leather/cement and was more noticeable
That's weird. I use this trick on either side and it has always worked for me. Was the leather you were using super soft and fluffy on the flesh side?
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods It is just I am a little sloppy with my glue. Glue applied to flesh side. Tiny bits stick to my fingers and get transfered to the grain side. Annoying that I cannot be more careful. I use exclusively veg tanned. Mostly Buttero.
Haha I do the same thing. Or I get some glue on my table top then toss the leather on that 🤦♂️
Will this work if the cement on the leather is dry?
What about suede leather? Does it work the same?
I'm actually not sure! I'd say probably not...