I do wish we in the UK had a leather goods supplier as dedicated as you. Chuck, you are quite simply the most excitable and enthusiastic leatherworker online! I cannot help but smile at your presentation and I have learned so much from your tutorials. Thanks for the education and inspiration 😁❤️
"A baggie of glue is no help at all" - you ROCK, Chuck!!! How lucky was I to find this brilliant channel? So much useful info and mostly stuff the books never tell you. You make my day with every video you post. Best wishes from Australia.
This fellow is easily the most entertaining leathercrafter I've ever heard teach. Thank you so much for the video - I'm excited to try lining a journal! :)
The upside down glue trick was somewhat easier, thanks for the tip. Although if you string glue onto the threads it will be hard to get off. Even better trick I’ve learned from years of working in ER. Petroleum jelly dissolves glue. With a Q-tip put a little of it on the threads before putting the lid on and it comes off easily every time.
The petroleum jelly advice is I think the best thing I've ever learned on this website because I've tried to get that barge off using everything and I could never it it off.
Hi, thank you for the inspiring video. Question...can you get a burnished edge with a piece of leather that has been lined with eg. Pigskin?...or how would you finish that?
I bought the glass container that has the bail type of top lock. largemouth opening. Since I had bought a gallon of glue, I used the small container for use. I also had bought thinner for the glue and thinned it down to where I liked it. You do lose the contained brush doing this, but it isn't that big a deal with a pack of disposable brushes. Another trick for canned threads is to wrap Teflon tape on the threads, this is the same tape used on pipe connections to seal them. Almost nothing sticks to Teflon.
I don't have to worry about using my can of Barge all up because I dropped it the first time I opened it and put half on my shop floor. And being in a wheel chair it took me time to clean up. Darrell
Well Chuck I gotta say, great vid. Overcut the split is the best advice here. Barge is and always my #1 choice. Bag full of glue haha maybe u can sell it on ebay😂👍
That was helpful thank you.. Question is there a fabric liner that has adhesive on the back? 🤷I' made a square pouch. And realized it needs to be lined.😲 So in the construction of it if there was a fabric with adhesive backed lining that does not fray it would be awesome.🤗
Randy! Thanks for emailing! Good question too! The Barge and the S-18 contact cement are both perfect for projects because they remain very flexible, and, they won’t give out if moisture ever enters the picture. I would cover both pieces completely and, maybe, a second coat on the edges (just to make sure there’s a good bond on the edges). This will make the two pieces react and feel like one piece and it won’t ripple or bubble when folded. Give the glue five to ten minutes to dry (it will look wet but feel dry and a bit tacky) and then bond the two pieces together and you will have a project that will remain flexible for years and years!
George, your comment really struck me and I’m still thinking about it! “Like an old friend.” It really is. Thank you for taking the time to send in one of the coolest comments I’ve gotten!
Chuck, I have a almost a half a hide, veg tanned something like 10 to 12 ounce. I bought it to make frog eyes bolt bags and belts for workers of steel hangers. I am wondering will dry out? Will it go bad? Or another way to ask it, should leather be used in a certain period of time, or can it be stored indefinitely, in a out building that is dry, but not heated in the winter nor cooled in the summer? Looking forward to your answer. Thanks!
I would like to know if it is possible to glue leather to wood. I am making a dead blow mallet and want to make one end with a leather surface. If so, what would be the best adhesive for this application?
Awesome video, thanks for posting. I'm making leather pants, and I'm going to use this method to glue the seams flat. Do you always put the glue on both surfaces that need to be stuck together?
Hi Chuck, your videos are great for beginners getting into the craft! One small question, are the edges finished before gluing on the liner, or should I bevel afterwards? Thanks!
Hi Betty, The edges are beveled and top coat applied before gluing on the liner, you can watch the complete video on how the mouse pad was made from start to finish here: ruclips.net/video/O5rg9jNPQ7o/видео.html
Hi chuck, I’ve started making concealed weapons holsters and I’m putting a liner in them but having a hard time getting my pattern just right for my stitch lines. What is the best way to do this when installing a liner.This would be a good idea for a video thanks chuck keep up the videos.
How do I make a sticky backed leather strike plate for a wooden longbow? It has a thin clear fiberglass laminate. I’ll need something I can replace once it wears out.
Have you done a Leather Element on choosing Art work to carve in to the leather? I have some ideas but I seem to be picking art that gets too busy to carve.
I accidentally purchased the infinity barge cement. Have you used this produce. I was trying to purchase the barge all-purpose cement. Please help with my quest for help.
I am wanting to ad a liner to a holster. Specifically I want to add a 2-3 ounce veg tan to the inside of the holster. Will S-18 (which I already ordered from Weaver) or do I need to use Barge Cement?
Hi there, Yes, I would try a scrap piece as an experiment to make sure the cement doesn't soak through first. If it does soak through, I would try a spray glue and that should work well for fabric.
Hi Ashlyn, I have not worked with the microsuede. I may say burnish first so it doesn’t affect the edge of the microsuede, but, I can’t give you an solid answer.
will a lacing chisel go through leather lined with fabric? or should I put holes on the leather first before putting on the fabric, then poke holes using an awl or the needle? planning to line a leather bag with fabric this way.
Veg tan leather can be baked to harden it or you can use Leather Firmer. For chrome tans there isn't a whole lot you can do - they are tanned to be soft and supple. we'll link the Leather Firmer below if you'd like to check it out and we have a video on our channel on the baking to harden method! Hope that helps! www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2113/leather-firmer-quart/pr_55344
Can you recommend an alternative to contact cement. The fumes are too much for me! Especially in the winter with the windows closed. I tried Gorilla clear glue and that was very poor. Tried Titebond II with fair results. White glue less good but somewhat workable. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Hi Terry! Renia Aquilim is a good water based option, no fumes and it works great! www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2118-16/renia-aquilim-sg-water-based/pr_59097
I’m looking at having a go at making some suspenders for my firefighting bunker pants and would like to line the shoulder area in suede and have some cutouts to show the contrasting suede color. My question is I see there is both cow and pig suede. What are the differences and what one would work best for a long lasting product that will be durable. Think a final weight of 9oz with lining.
That sounds beautiful; your suspenders would be very unique! The pig suede is usually a “garment” weight (1-2 oz.) and the cow is usually a 3-4 oz. (common suede weight). In your case, the cow would work nicely and would be very durable, and, 21 gorgeous colors to work with: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/ItemCatalogListing/001/34
I have a problem that I have not seen you address yet. When I glue two pieces of veg-tan leather and run the glue to the edge and then go to burnish the edge the glue will gum up and ruin my glossy finished edge. Do you have a solution for this?
Hi Brent, If any glue gets on the outside edge of the leather you can sand it off once the two pieces are pressed together. This will get rid of any glue and should take care of the issue. The glue between the two pieces shouldn't cause any problems with this - if it's contact cement you're using make sure to give it enough dry time before pressing the pieces together.
Hello! It would be best if you could send us a photo of your project, the desk and where you are putting the leather. Then we can give you a good recommendation. You can email us at... retail@weaverleather.com
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you. I’ve saved your website so when I get to that part of this build I was going to call you for supplies and information.
Would this be a good idea to do with a messenger bag flap ? I got a messenger bag kit for Christmas and the flesh side Is rather fuzzy so dyeing is problematic, I thought about using A old bandanna and glueing it in like this.
Yes, you can absolutely add a liner to the flap of a messenger bag. We have a video where we add a liner to the flap of a laptop bag here: ruclips.net/video/tVWO4sCzk7o/видео.html
Hi Chuck! Love your videos, they're always easy to follow! I have a question regarding spots (harness spots with 2 prongs on the back.) and applying them to horse tack items. My question is, I see a lot of headstalls/breast collars that are 2 layers of leather, stitched together, then the spots have been added over the stitching, but the prongs are not visible from the back side. Is it ok for the prongs not to go completely through and just be inside the 2 layers of leather? Is that secure enough to hold? (If that makes sense.) Thanks!
Hello, We are a bit stumped on this one. The headstalls we manufacture here at Weaver have the spots set into the top layer of leather and then the second layer is sewn on, this way the tines are curled under and the second layer gives added security. But, the method you are inquiring about- laying the spots in over the stitch line and ending inside the backing leather doesn’t allow for the tines of the spot to curl. The tines may curl, somewhat, as they move through the leather which may give them some level of hold, but outside of that, I am not sure these won’t pull out in a short amount of time. I hate it that I don’t have a better answer for you. A little experimenting may be in order to see what kind of strength it takes to pull out a spot that’s laid in this way. It doesn’t sound like a good way to go, but, the tines may have just enough grip to stay secure. If you try some samples let me know what you find out!
Barge All-Purpose should do the trick: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2129/barge-all-purpose-cement/pr_8180 Here is an application chart if that's helpful: www.bargeadhesive.com/application-chart.html
Chuck, love your videos! Your charisma and simple teaching methods make things easy to understand. God loves you, man! We've all messed up in areas and need someone to save us from our brokenness. I implore you to get into His word. Seek the Creator. He loves you A LOT. J esus loves you enough to die for you. "For ALL have sinned and fallen short of the glory of God." Romans 3:23 God sent His son so that "He might be just and the justifier of the one who has faith in Jesus." Rom. 3:26 Thanks, Chuck!
Hi Chuck and team, great videos! I hope I can repay the favor in addition to becoming a Weaver customer. I appreciate your lining technique here, but I had a question about your process. In your other video "Lining Leather Projects" (ruclips.net/video/1FvwjIwa5ks/видео.html) you mentioned applying 2 coats of cement on both pieces. For your project in this video did you apply two coats or just one? Also, in your other video, you mentioned that if you were stitching, you would use white glue - I suppose that's easier to punch the sew holes through and easier on your tools. If you were to stitch the border in this project, which has a lot of non-stiched surface area, would you use a combination of cement/glue (e.g., cement to the body and white glue to the borders) or choose only one (i.e. cement or glue)? Finally, once you've glued and rolled, do you see any benefit (or hazards) to flipping it over and rolling again on the glued side?
Hello, For your question on the coats of cement - you would only need to put one coat on each piece - so you would put one coat on the main body and then one coat one the liner, let them dry until tacky and then press them together. If you were to stitch the border of the mouse pad I would still just use cement for the entire piece, there's no need to add white glue since you're already using the cement. White glue can be used on a project where the bond is only to hold the leather together until it's stitched, it won't give the permanent bond that cement does. If you only have cement on hand you can absolutely use that as a bond sew also. For your question on flipping the project and rolling the other side, both sides will have glue so just rolling the top would be sufficient but as long as your surface is clean and smooth you can flip it over and roll the other side. You just want to make sure you don't get any scratches or dirt since the face of the mouse pad is smooth veg tanned leather. I hope this answers your questions and please let us know if you need anything else.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply, you answered it perfectly and thank you for responding so quickly. This is the portion of that video that caused me to think you were applying 2 coats to both pieces: ruclips.net/video/1FvwjIwa5ks/видео.html. I'm guessing I misheard the pause/punctuation and the statement was intended as 2 coats *total* with 1 coat applied to each piece. I've never seen Chuck (or anyone) ever apply 4 coats total (2 coats to 2 pieces), which is why it stood out :)
I do wish we in the UK had a leather goods supplier as dedicated as you. Chuck, you are quite simply the most excitable and enthusiastic leatherworker online! I cannot help but smile at your presentation and I have learned so much from your tutorials. Thanks for the education and inspiration 😁❤️
Thanks so much, that means a lot!
"A baggie of glue is no help at all" - you ROCK, Chuck!!!
How lucky was I to find this brilliant channel? So much useful info and mostly stuff the books never tell you. You make my day with every video you post. Best wishes from Australia.
first video from this channel, and I'm impressed by the clarity and conciseness - no time-wasting in any of the footage.
Chuck Dorcet is a Genius .. These videos are King. So viewer friendly & quick !
Thank you so much!
This fellow is easily the most entertaining leathercrafter I've ever heard teach. Thank you so much for the video - I'm excited to try lining a journal! :)
Wow, thank you so much!
The upside down glue trick was somewhat easier, thanks for the tip. Although if you string glue onto the threads it will be hard to get off. Even better trick I’ve learned from years of working in ER. Petroleum jelly dissolves glue. With a Q-tip put a little of it on the threads before putting the lid on and it comes off easily every time.
The petroleum jelly advice is I think the best thing I've ever learned on this website because I've tried to get that barge off using everything and I could never it it off.
"a baggie of glue is no help at all"...best quote of 2021 so far!
Thanks for all the amazing content chuck and weaver :)
Chuck, cleaning the glue off the threads with some Acetone then putting a little Vaseline on them really helps also.
Thats wat I like a tutorial well explaine with no bs, tnx Greg from Florida
Thank you so much for taking the time for another great video Chuck!
Chuck man, your a friggin beauty, love your videos, always.
Chuck, thank you for the tutorial, love your animation you are great instructor, Cheers Mate!
Thank you so much!
Love the videos Chuck. We've learned so much and its's helped our product.
Great tips about storage! Nice video. Learned a lot from the comments too. Thank you, Chuck!!
I really get a lot of enjoyment from your videos. I'm looking forward to the next one.
Hi, thank you for the inspiring video. Question...can you get a burnished edge with a piece of leather that has been lined with eg. Pigskin?...or how would you finish that?
Chuck, thanks so much for the lesson. Just ordered 2 Half shoulders and looking forward to my first project.
Hopefully my first attempt with barges will go as well as yours. About to glue a liner to a bag. Wish me luck.
Excellent advice! I'll be sure to have a glue-free work area from now on.
good step by step instructions,thank you.
Thank you!
I bought the glass container that has the bail type of top lock. largemouth opening. Since I had bought a gallon of glue, I used the small container for use. I also had bought thinner for the glue and thinned it down to where I liked it. You do lose the contained brush doing this, but it isn't that big a deal with a pack of disposable brushes.
Another trick for canned threads is to wrap Teflon tape on the threads, this is the same tape used on pipe connections to seal them.
Almost nothing sticks to Teflon.
I don't have to worry about using my can of Barge all up because I dropped it the first time I opened it and put half on my shop floor. And being in a wheel chair it took me time to clean up. Darrell
Well Chuck I gotta say, great vid. Overcut the split is the best advice here. Barge is and always my #1 choice. Bag full of glue haha maybe u can sell it on ebay😂👍
Great tips, Chuck, thanks for the video.
That was helpful thank you.. Question is there a fabric liner that has adhesive on the back? 🤷I' made a square pouch. And realized it needs to be lined.😲 So in the construction of it if there was a fabric with adhesive backed lining that does not fray it would be awesome.🤗
Thanks for another great video. Would you think about making one on how to line something that folds, like a wallet?
Valorie, we line a laptop bag in this video, and I think it will help you out: ruclips.net/video/tVWO4sCzk7o/видео.html
What types of fabric would you recommend to line a project with?
Hi Paul,
You can use any type of fabric, I've seen anything from old jeans to bandanas to silk. Hope that helps!
What glue is best if you need it to stay pliable? Like for a journal that needs to fold over.
Randy! Thanks for emailing! Good question too! The Barge and the S-18 contact cement are both perfect for projects because they remain very flexible, and, they won’t give out if moisture ever enters the picture. I would cover both pieces completely and, maybe, a second coat on the edges (just to make sure there’s a good bond on the edges). This will make the two pieces react and feel like one piece and it won’t ripple or bubble when folded. Give the glue five to ten minutes to dry (it will look wet but feel dry and a bit tacky) and then bond the two pieces together and you will have a project that will remain flexible for years and years!
I Really enjoy your videos.
The grey knife feels like an old friend now! (I watched these videos all day the other day when I was sick). XD
George, your comment really struck me and I’m still thinking about it! “Like an old friend.” It really is. Thank you for taking the time to send in one of the coolest comments I’ve gotten!
Toluene - free Barge cement I have not heard any thing a out is it a good cement?
I have limited fresh air flow.
Thanks Ed
would there be a reason for not combining the two pieces together before cutting them down to size? instead of having the outer piece already cut
Hi Jason,
That would work as well, you'll just have a much thicker piece to cut through but if you'e got a sharp knife it shouldn't be a problem.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks!
I really like your videos. Thanks for the info.
Chuck, I have a almost a half a hide, veg tanned something like 10 to 12 ounce. I bought it to make frog eyes bolt bags and belts for workers of steel hangers. I am wondering will dry out? Will it go bad? Or another way to ask it, should leather be used in a certain period of time, or can it be stored indefinitely, in a out building that is dry, but not heated in the winter nor cooled in the summer? Looking forward to your answer. Thanks!
This guy is really growing on me
I would like to know if it is possible to glue leather to wood. I am making a dead blow mallet and want to make one end with a leather surface. If so, what would be the best adhesive for this application?
Lining the cap of the barge with some vaseline will ensure it doesn't seal itself shut.
Awesome video, thanks for posting. I'm making leather pants, and I'm going to use this method to glue the seams flat. Do you always put the glue on both surfaces that need to be stuck together?
If you're using a contact cement then, yes, you will need to glue both surfaces to get the leather to adhere properly. Hope that helps!
Hi Chuck, your videos are great for beginners getting into the craft! One small question, are the edges finished before gluing on the liner, or should I bevel afterwards? Thanks!
Hi Betty,
The edges are beveled and top coat applied before gluing on the liner, you can watch the complete video on how the mouse pad was made from start to finish here: ruclips.net/video/O5rg9jNPQ7o/видео.html
Thanks so much!
Great video!
Hi chuck, I’ve started making concealed weapons holsters and I’m putting a liner in them but having a hard time getting my pattern just right for my stitch lines. What is the best way to do this when installing a liner.This would be a good idea for a video thanks chuck keep up the videos.
To prevent premature bonding....Wax Paper! Works great
Very helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Chuck, which glue is best to use for leather shoes and sandals?
what should we do for a cloth liner on a bi-fold wallet at the crease? Any issues with the cloth liner coming loose, stretching or other issues?
Can you make a Video or answer if it’s okay to glue silk to leather as a liner ?
How do I make a sticky backed leather strike plate for a wooden longbow? It has a thin clear fiberglass laminate. I’ll need something I can replace once it wears out.
Have you done a Leather Element on choosing Art work to carve in to the leather? I have some ideas but I seem to be picking art that gets too busy to carve.
We have not but we'll see if that's something we could do! Thank you!
I accidentally purchased the infinity barge cement. Have you used this produce. I was trying to purchase the barge all-purpose cement.
Please help with my quest for help.
I learned something new in 2020
I am wanting to ad a liner to a holster. Specifically I want to add a 2-3 ounce veg tan to the inside of the holster. Will S-18 (which I already ordered from Weaver) or do I need to use Barge Cement?
Hi there,
The S-18 should work just fine!
When lining a wallet with a thin fabric such as satin would you use the same process?
Hi there,
Yes, I would try a scrap piece as an experiment to make sure the cement doesn't soak through first. If it does soak through, I would try a spray glue and that should work well for fabric.
Hi Chuck! When lining with microsuede, should you burnish edges before or after glueing the suede on? Wondering how the cement effects that.
Hi Ashlyn,
I have not worked with the microsuede. I may say burnish first so it doesn’t affect the edge of the microsuede, but, I can’t give you an solid answer.
will a lacing chisel go through leather lined with fabric? or should I put holes on the leather first before putting on the fabric, then poke holes using an awl or the needle? planning to line a leather bag with fabric this way.
Hi Jamika,
It should poke through the fabric as long as the fabric is glued in place.
How to make the soft leather to stiff? Is there any products to used or any simple way?
Veg tan leather can be baked to harden it or you can use Leather Firmer. For chrome tans there isn't a whole lot you can do - they are tanned to be soft and supple. we'll link the Leather Firmer below if you'd like to check it out and we have a video on our channel on the baking to harden method! Hope that helps!
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2113/leather-firmer-quart/pr_55344
Can you recommend an alternative to contact cement. The fumes are too much for me! Especially in the winter with the windows closed. I tried Gorilla clear glue and that was very poor. Tried Titebond II with fair results. White glue less good but somewhat workable. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Hi Terry!
Renia Aquilim is a good water based option, no fumes and it works great!
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2118-16/renia-aquilim-sg-water-based/pr_59097
Hi there, is this contact glue goos with leather onto wood?, thanks and good video
Hi Christopher,
Thank you for watching! Yes, this works for adhering leather to wood.
thanks
Can you show how to line leather with fabric
I’m looking at having a go at making some suspenders for my firefighting bunker pants and would like to line the shoulder area in suede and have some cutouts to show the contrasting suede color. My question is I see there is both cow and pig suede. What are the differences and what one would work best for a long lasting product that will be durable. Think a final weight of 9oz with lining.
That sounds beautiful; your suspenders would be very unique! The pig suede is usually a “garment” weight (1-2 oz.) and the cow is usually a 3-4 oz. (common suede weight). In your case, the cow would work nicely and would be very durable, and, 21 gorgeous colors to work with: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/ItemCatalogListing/001/34
I have a problem that I have not seen you address yet. When I glue two pieces of veg-tan leather and run the glue to the edge and then go to burnish the edge the glue will gum up and ruin my glossy finished edge. Do you have a solution for this?
Hi Brent,
If any glue gets on the outside edge of the leather you can sand it off once the two pieces are pressed together. This will get rid of any glue and should take care of the issue. The glue between the two pieces shouldn't cause any problems with this - if it's contact cement you're using make sure to give it enough dry time before pressing the pieces together.
Thank you for the speedy reply.
Need to glue leather to inside of drop front desk I’m making can you recommend the leather I should use & the glue?
Hello! It would be best if you could send us a photo of your project, the desk and where you are putting the leather. Then we can give you a good recommendation. You can email us at... retail@weaverleather.com
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you. I’ve saved your website so when I get to that part of this build I was going to call you for supplies and information.
can you do a video on lather pant
Would this be a good idea to do with a messenger bag flap ?
I got a messenger bag kit for Christmas and the flesh side
Is rather fuzzy so dyeing is problematic, I thought about using
A old bandanna and glueing it in like this.
Yes, you can absolutely add a liner to the flap of a messenger bag. We have a video where we add a liner to the flap of a laptop bag here: ruclips.net/video/tVWO4sCzk7o/видео.html
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you so very much
Is it normal warnish thinner
Hi Chuck! Love your videos, they're always easy to follow! I have a question regarding spots (harness spots with 2 prongs on the back.) and applying them to horse tack items. My question is, I see a lot of headstalls/breast collars that are 2 layers of leather, stitched together, then the spots have been added over the stitching, but the prongs are not visible from the back side. Is it ok for the prongs not to go completely through and just be inside the 2 layers of leather? Is that secure enough to hold? (If that makes sense.) Thanks!
Hello,
We are a bit stumped on this one. The headstalls we manufacture here at Weaver have the spots set into the top layer of leather and then the second layer is sewn on, this way the tines are curled under and the second layer gives added security. But, the method you are inquiring about- laying the spots in over the stitch line and ending inside the backing leather doesn’t allow for the tines of the spot to curl. The tines may curl, somewhat, as they move through the leather which may give them some level of hold, but outside of that, I am not sure these won’t pull out in a short amount of time.
I hate it that I don’t have a better answer for you. A little experimenting may be in order to see what kind of strength it takes to pull out a spot that’s laid in this way. It doesn’t sound like a good way to go, but, the tines may have just enough grip to stay secure. If you try some samples let me know what you find out!
Thank you so much! :)
What glue can I use to glue leather to metal?
Barge All-Purpose should do the trick: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2129/barge-all-purpose-cement/pr_8180
Here is an application chart if that's helpful: www.bargeadhesive.com/application-chart.html
Any idea if this would work on 2mm rubber being glued to wood?
Hi there,
Yes, Barge Cement will work on wood and rubber so you should be good.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks so much for the reply! I just gave it a go...so far seems to be working like a charm!
hey @Weaver Leather Supply, nice video, ty. i've just purchased my first can of contact glue and searched yt & found your video. let me suggest a tip for you. get a 1" wood round, drill out a hole the size of the glue can lid, then invert your can and/or put into bag. ty for the invert tip. i'll give that a try.
be well & thrive,
©¿~salli
Thanks ... i neded this advice.
Chuck, love your videos! Your charisma and simple teaching methods make things easy to understand. God loves you, man! We've all messed up in areas and need someone to save us from our brokenness. I implore you to get into His word. Seek the Creator. He loves you A LOT. J
esus loves you enough to die for you.
"For ALL have sinned and fallen short of the glory of God." Romans 3:23 God sent His son so that "He might be just and the justifier of the one who has faith in Jesus." Rom. 3:26
Thanks, Chuck!
Struggle to get good glue in the uk nowadays 🙁
Super learen
How to use leather skivers
Hi Chuck and team, great videos! I hope I can repay the favor in addition to becoming a Weaver customer. I appreciate your lining technique here, but I had a question about your process. In your other video "Lining Leather Projects" (ruclips.net/video/1FvwjIwa5ks/видео.html) you mentioned applying 2 coats of cement on both pieces. For your project in this video did you apply two coats or just one?
Also, in your other video, you mentioned that if you were stitching, you would use white glue - I suppose that's easier to punch the sew holes through and easier on your tools. If you were to stitch the border in this project, which has a lot of non-stiched surface area, would you use a combination of cement/glue (e.g., cement to the body and white glue to the borders) or choose only one (i.e. cement or glue)?
Finally, once you've glued and rolled, do you see any benefit (or hazards) to flipping it over and rolling again on the glued side?
Hello,
For your question on the coats of cement - you would only need to put one coat on each piece - so you would put one coat on the main body and then one coat one the liner, let them dry until tacky and then press them together.
If you were to stitch the border of the mouse pad I would still just use cement for the entire piece, there's no need to add white glue since you're already using the cement.
White glue can be used on a project where the bond is only to hold the leather together until it's stitched, it won't give the permanent bond that cement does.
If you only have cement on hand you can absolutely use that as a bond sew also.
For your question on flipping the project and rolling the other side, both sides will have glue so just rolling the top would be sufficient but as long as your surface is clean and smooth you can flip it over and roll the other side. You just want to make sure you don't get any scratches or dirt since the face of the mouse pad is smooth veg tanned leather.
I hope this answers your questions and please let us know if you need anything else.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply, you answered it perfectly and thank you for responding so quickly. This is the portion of that video that caused me to think you were applying 2 coats to both pieces: ruclips.net/video/1FvwjIwa5ks/видео.html. I'm guessing I misheard the pause/punctuation and the statement was intended as 2 coats *total* with 1 coat applied to each piece. I've never seen Chuck (or anyone) ever apply 4 coats total (2 coats to 2 pieces), which is why it stood out :)
How to make a satchel bag for a wheelchair
We currently do not have a video like this but we will add it to our list of potential future project videos!
3M headliner adhesive works a lot better than barge and is a whole lot faster and a whole lot less of a PITA than using contact cement.
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Cement contact glue makes your leather smell like a petrol station for a long almost weeks, Thank you ... would use water if I could
typo good not goos :)
There's certainly nothing wrong at all with a baggie of glue, especially if you're too young to buy booze!🤪😵💫