I am a GM technician but my sister drives an Escape. After searching her codes online I found your video. Like others have said, we dont really know what blew the fuse in the first place. But other than that, this is one of the best diagnostic videos I have come across. Super easy to follow, to the point, and very helpful. Thanks! And keep up the great videos!
When I changed my vocation (20+ years ago) from automotive to electronics I was taught if I find the symptom it doesn't mean that I found the cause keep going. If a fuse blows from over voltage it will vaporize the fuse element usually. And that takes a lot of current . From the looks of that fuse there was a short and if the problem isn't corrected I would expect it to happen again. In electronics you can't always find a cause which becomes a big parts changing expedition, or scrapping the device because of cost. It can drive you crazy trying to find the cause to the effect. Good luck and thanks for another great video.
Thanks for the video. I was getting P0563, P0560, P0134 and other weird readings on my 2010 Hyundai i20 1.2 petrol (UK). ECU was reading 22-24 volts whilst other modules read more sensible readings. Battery was also seeming to be low on charge under load testing. Long story short, ECU2 20amp fuse was not in its correct position! Put it back in its correct place along with the injector fuse (the ecu fuse was in this hole) and the values returned to normal, including the O2 sensor readout which was reading absent or very small variations (but time will tell if this was due to the ECU or if its actually faulty). Now it just remains to wait and see if any codes come back or the reason for the fuses being fiddled with is revealed.
hey I'm having the exact issue on my i20 2010 ... had the alternator, o2 sensor all changed but they didn't make the light go away ... changed the 20amp fuse and the light went away for 3 months but now back again ... what should I do?
Good video I just experienced this problem and I saw your video and was hoping it would only be a fuse , but all the fuses are good so I guess it’s on to changing the alternator
I seen that fuse pop when people put the wrong alternator VR on it. As each vehicle Ford makes. The VR is designed for that vehicle. You can have up to 4 different ones in the same year. As the PCM expects to see a very narrow waveform. The fuse pops to protect the PCM from over voltage. Using the smart charging program to conserve fuel.. So I would suspect they replaced the alternator. As the old one failed being a 2007...
I would suspect the fuse blew with the original alternator & harness issue. Hardest vehicles to work on are shorts blown fuses and someone has replaced or moved harnesses & replaced components so you do your normal ritual of inspecting, shaking down, powers/grds, etc & if you don't find anything you let her go rather than chasing a ghost or your butt and tell the customer if it returns don't touch anything and bring it to me.
Great video.saved me a lot of time today. My 2013 f 150 with the 5.0 had the blue battery light on and I was getting that code po563. Sure enough that fuse was blown.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a high voltage cold P0563. I have checked all the fuses you mentioned and they are fine. The only result with this code is my four-wheel-drive engagement will only work key on engine off, the engagement does not work key on engine running. Could use some help thank you.
Sweet Vid Brian. I love it. Do these three power feeds come down the piece of the harness the owner replaced? Could have been short in that that caused it to pop originally. It always bothers me when I have a blown fuse and I can't find the cause, but sometimes if you can't find it, you just have to give it back and see if it happens again.
Recently I had a 2015 Ford F-150 come in the shop with a 5.0 4x4 and it had a cylinder head temperature code I was going through the pinpoint test and it was kind of leading me nowhere so I just went back to the old way of doing things and I just load tested the wires going from pin 47 of the ECM connector and pin 49 down to the coolant head temperature sensor and they proved out fine so I had to replace the PCM in order for that code to go away and the temperature gauge on the dash to start reading normal instead of pegging out and that fixed the problem it was an issue inside the PCM
I have a 2007 f150 king ranch 5.4... check charging message comes on a few seconds after starting... battery is good, alternator is putting out 14.5V any advice? I love your channel! I purchased a new motor from powertrain, and followed your step by step vids.. you are awesome. Any tips about charging system message would be greatly appreciated!
I’m having a similar issue with a 2003 expedition with a similar issue. No codes, alternator is putting out 14.2 volts battery light is on all the time information center states check charging system. New alt, I manually check all the fuses in the fuse box and they are good.
I have the same issue with my 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L new ALTERNATOR NEW BATTERY and i cant find why the light stays on and the truck starts to sputter
I would suspect the fuse blew with the original alternator & harness issue. Hardest vehicles to work on are shorts blown fuses and someone has replaced or moved harnesses & replaced components so you do your normal ritual of inspecting, shaking down, powers/grds, etc & if you don't find anything you let her go rather than chasing a ghost or your butt and tell the customer if it returns don't touch anything and bring it to me. Nice diagnosis Brian.
You are detailing exact issues with my 2010 3.0L escape.... The voltage surges my heat/ac, my dash, all external lights all at same pace you can hear... I have a laggy, stuttery gas pedal that seems to send car haywire at certain rpms. My mechanic replaced my steering column/module cuz it seized few weeks ago and then he unfortunately passed away, now i got next mechanic chirping "alternator, alternator" I call parts places , $274 refurb, $500 new so im chirping "no alternator, no alternator"
i got the same question - what made the fuse blow. what other circuits does it feed and what is the amp draw on that fuse? i believe those ripples on the pcm monitor is internal circiuts backfeeding through capacitors and solid state components in the pcm. that can actually act as amplifiers in certain circumstance
I am curious what exactly these V-PWR inputs do inside the PCM (which outputs draw from them etc), something else must've been malfunctioning with those power wires not supplying power, Ford must've had a reason to put them there, and with a 20A fuse and spanning 3 terminals I doubt it's just for voltage monitoring.
I have a 06 F150 Lariat 4x4 Supercrew that’s reading high voltage on the gauge but the voltage meter is reading 14.6….could this be my problem before I buy an alternator tomorrow?
I have a 2014 f150 with a 3.5 eco. My transmission shift REALLY hard from 1st to second when trans is cold. This gets better within 10 minutes of driving . Also when its cold and im driving with cruise going down hill, the down shift is also really hard. Any ideas? Thanks and great videos!
I am having an issue with a 2007 Ford five hundred. I am getting intermittent high voltage, as high as 18V. When this occurs PO563 is set, when this is not occurring there are no codes, sort of, that check charging system pops up, and if i run a KOER test code PO622 shows up, but the check engine mil in not set. As of right now The batter has been changed, the old one fried. Alternator changed multiple times. The pig tail to the alt has been replaced, the original had some play in the wires where they went into the plug. the ECM was swapped and all wires from the battery to the alt, starter, fuse bloc and neg to engine ground have been replaced and still having issues. I have checked all the fuses multiple time and have not found any that have been blown
I got a 2007 eddie Bauer edition ford explorer no codes what so ever but I'm getting hard shifts an RPM jumps up just a little bit but enough you feel it it doesn't do it while idling. Any ideas already did plugs
Inspecting a blown fuse is important as it often shows the nature of the failure. Hard shorts sputter the element. Slow shorts often show sagging. Mechanical failures or corrosion will show environmental problems.
With the 2005 Lincoln navigator 5.4 3v and 2005 Ford Expedition 5.4 3v using the same engine. Why does a Lincoln Navigator require 91+ Premium fuel? Can I put regular in?
Please help! I just got a 2013 Ford Fusion 2.0 eco boost and I'm hearing a "hissing" noise coming from the passenger side, you can hear it more from passenger wheel well. No check engine and no loss of power. Does get louder with RPM increasing.
I have a 2006 limited edition explorer v-8 4.6 liter and I was sitting in a drive threw when my truck suddenly dropped itself down into limp mode with a hard shift threw a check engine light and threw check charging system and code p0563…. Alternator and battery both tested fine don’t see blown fuses either! I’m kinda freaking out as this truck has sentimental value to me 😭 any ideas?????
@Thomas Rossi Correct, A fuse will not blow all by itself and a fuse will not "wear out". If a fuse is blown it is because too much current was passed through it.
what is the proper operating voltage? I have always been told it should be around 14.4, but on my 2008 explorer it wants to run around 13.3. when first started it will be around 14, but after a couple minutes it will start to go down to 13.3 and settles there. everything works fine, and it has been like this for as long as I have owned it. so I wasn't sure if this was normal behavior or if it was an alternator or regulator problem. a couple years ago I asked the dealer to look at it when I was in for an oil change and they said nothing was wrong with it.
Normal voltage is 14.25v most times so it can push back into the battery. Remember with it being pcm controlled if it does not need it the pcm will command a lower duty cycle and help with idle sag and fuel economy.
reason for pcm control (one of them) is to help reduce the load on the alternator thus the load it exerts on the engine. they have done similar with power steering systems and a/c. less load less fuel consumption less pollutants . so the days of 14 volts as a norm are nearing its end anything over 12.65 will charge a battery albeit slowly.
New Level Auto Good to c u r up ‘n about. Just been tryin to figure in what ways a phone tech can use a Vantage for four years. It has 250 AC capability. Phone companies used to use 50 volt dc batteries. And when did the tech come along to run more than one line on a pair of wires? When were u introduced to square waves. Sorry. You’re not gonna want to do all that tyyping
hey i got a 98 ford explorer eddie bauer with the 4.0 sohc and i keep getting p0174 bank one and bank two system lean codes i just replace the uper and lower intake manifold gaskets and nothing but the codes keep saying pending i reset them and they just come back one guy said it sounds like a short in my computer you ever come across anything like this before
we have a semiler problem with a 93 ford explorer the rpm rate is high at idle around 1100 my friend has obd 1 scan and is getting high voltage readings.
Could have been a defective fuse from the start, link could have had internal defect causing it to not carry full amperage, overheat and fail over time. Varying load on that circuit could have allowed it to work for years-until it failed.
Any tips for making the power running boards on a f150 platinum work better, mine are very slow and in the winter they really don’t wanna move. If it remote start the truck and then open the door there run better. If I start the truck wail there moving they abort going up and do back down. They can go down without much problem just slowly but coming back up there struggling. And a lot of the time they quit.
Spray and work the hinges with a good rust penetrant then once they are moving better follow up with wd-40. Then wipe them off and spray some fluid film on the hinge area.
I had one of our 2009 escapes at work pop a ECU fuse. engine ran fine, it just lit up the dash like a Christmas tree and it wouldn't shift to save it's life. never figured out what it was and 3 years on it has not happened again.
I got a 2007 eddie Bauer edition ford explorer no codes what so ever but I'm getting hard shifts an RPM jumps up just a little bit but enough you feel it it doesn't do it while idling. Any ideas already did plugs
clean the throttle body. power off and its cable disconnected. brake clean on a rag- wipe down. Also could be a bad coil. watch southmainauto, eric just did a video
I am a GM technician but my sister drives an Escape. After searching her codes online I found your video. Like others have said, we dont really know what blew the fuse in the first place. But other than that, this is one of the best diagnostic videos I have come across. Super easy to follow, to the point, and very helpful. Thanks! And keep up the great videos!
When I changed my vocation (20+ years ago) from automotive to electronics I was taught if I find the symptom it doesn't mean that I found the cause keep going. If a fuse blows from over voltage it will vaporize the fuse element usually. And that takes a lot of current . From the looks of that fuse there was a short and if the problem isn't corrected I would expect it to happen again. In electronics you can't always find a cause which becomes a big parts changing expedition, or scrapping the device because of cost. It can drive you crazy trying to find the cause to the effect. Good luck and thanks for another great video.
I know this is off topic, however, I absolutely LOVE the looks of the dash on that Lincoln!
Thanks for the video. I was getting P0563, P0560, P0134 and other weird readings on my 2010 Hyundai i20 1.2 petrol (UK). ECU was reading 22-24 volts whilst other modules read more sensible readings. Battery was also seeming to be low on charge under load testing.
Long story short, ECU2 20amp fuse was not in its correct position!
Put it back in its correct place along with the injector fuse (the ecu fuse was in this hole) and the values returned to normal, including the O2 sensor readout which was reading absent or very small variations (but time will tell if this was due to the ECU or if its actually faulty).
Now it just remains to wait and see if any codes come back or the reason for the fuses being fiddled with is revealed.
hey I'm having the exact issue on my i20 2010 ... had the alternator, o2 sensor all changed but they didn't make the light go away ... changed the 20amp fuse and the light went away for 3 months but now back again ... what should I do?
how did you measure the ecu voltage can you tell me? was it the fuses you tested? was the car on when you did that?
Good video I just experienced this problem and I saw your video and was hoping it would only be a fuse , but all the fuses are good so I guess it’s on to changing the alternator
Wow pulling out the wire diagrams, voltmeters, and scan tools...great troubleshooting! Love all your videos.
Wheres the short causing the fuse to pop? Did you find it Brian?
No short in wiring that I could find. These newer vehicles can pop fuses when jumped in different circuits.
Maybe it did start out as a bad Alternator and that popped the fuse initially. Like Ozzstar, I always wonder the cause anytime there's a popped fuse.
Ozzstar yeah, good question! I was hoping for definitive answers, I guess now we'll never know.
I seen that fuse pop when people put the wrong alternator VR on it. As each vehicle Ford makes. The VR is designed for that vehicle. You can have up to 4 different ones in the same year. As the PCM expects to see a very narrow waveform. The fuse pops to protect the PCM from over voltage. Using the smart charging program to conserve fuel..
So I would suspect they replaced the alternator. As the old one failed being a 2007...
I would suspect the fuse blew with the original alternator & harness issue. Hardest vehicles to work on are shorts blown fuses and someone has replaced or moved harnesses & replaced components so you do your normal ritual of inspecting, shaking down, powers/grds, etc & if you don't find anything you let her go rather than chasing a ghost or your butt and tell the customer if it returns don't touch anything and bring it to me.
Would have been nice to find what caused fuse to blow, but I suspect it was from the other parts that were replaced. Great video.
It’s like chasing a ghost at this point.
Great video.saved me a lot of time today. My 2013 f 150 with the 5.0 had the blue battery light on and I was getting that code po563. Sure enough that fuse was blown.
man what a great tech you are simple clean and clear not meany do that hear thanks Mr b.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a high voltage cold P0563. I have checked all the fuses you mentioned and they are fine. The only result with this code is my four-wheel-drive engagement will only work key on engine off, the engagement does not work key on engine running. Could use some help thank you.
Sweet Vid Brian. I love it. Do these three power feeds come down the piece of the harness the owner replaced? Could have been short in that that caused it to pop originally. It always bothers me when I have a blown fuse and I can't find the cause, but sometimes if you can't find it, you just have to give it back and see if it happens again.
Recently I had a 2015 Ford F-150 come in the shop with a 5.0 4x4 and it had a cylinder head temperature code I was going through the pinpoint test and it was kind of leading me nowhere so I just went back to the old way of doing things and I just load tested the wires going from pin 47 of the ECM connector and pin 49 down to the coolant head temperature sensor and they proved out fine so I had to replace the PCM in order for that code to go away and the temperature gauge on the dash to start reading normal instead of pegging out and that fixed the problem it was an issue inside the PCM
I have a 2007 f150 king ranch 5.4... check charging message comes on a few seconds after starting... battery is good, alternator is putting out 14.5V any advice? I love your channel! I purchased a new motor from powertrain, and followed your step by step vids.. you are awesome. Any tips about charging system message would be greatly appreciated!
I’m having a similar issue with a 2003 expedition with a similar issue. No codes, alternator is putting out 14.2 volts battery light is on all the time information center states check charging system. New alt, I manually check all the fuses in the fuse box and they are good.
I have the same issue with my 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L new ALTERNATOR NEW BATTERY and i cant find why the light stays on and the truck starts to sputter
@@alejandrogalvan2669 i’m still not sure what the issue is but I believe it is due to the voltage regulator that is in the replacement alternator
Good direction on checking posts and grounds. Thank u!
Besides the questions on what blew the fuse, great video! 👍
I would suspect the fuse blew with the original alternator & harness issue. Hardest vehicles to work on are shorts blown fuses and someone has replaced or moved harnesses & replaced components so you do your normal ritual of inspecting, shaking down, powers/grds, etc & if you don't find anything you let her go rather than chasing a ghost or your butt and tell the customer if it returns don't touch anything and bring it to me. Nice diagnosis Brian.
You are detailing exact issues with my 2010 3.0L escape....
The voltage surges my heat/ac, my dash, all external lights all at same pace you can hear...
I have a laggy, stuttery gas pedal that seems to send car haywire at certain rpms.
My mechanic replaced my steering column/module cuz it seized few weeks ago and then he unfortunately passed away, now i got next mechanic chirping "alternator, alternator"
I call parts places , $274 refurb, $500 new so im chirping "no alternator, no alternator"
i got the same question - what made the fuse blow. what other circuits does it feed and what is the amp draw on that fuse? i believe those ripples on the pcm monitor is internal circiuts backfeeding through capacitors and solid state components in the pcm. that can actually act as amplifiers in certain circumstance
The only circuits this fuse feeds is those three power inputs to the pcm.
interesting. just a junk fuse??? let us know if anything more arises
it is an 07 so with the age and the heat cool cycles....... i have seen one timers before
I am curious what exactly these V-PWR inputs do inside the PCM (which outputs draw from them etc), something else must've been malfunctioning with those power wires not supplying power, Ford must've had a reason to put them there, and with a 20A fuse and spanning 3 terminals I doubt it's just for voltage monitoring.
No like I said multiple times in the video it supplies amperage for the processors and outputs it controls so it can work.
Great video! I have a Ford Explorer 2011 whats fuse 76 for my car any idea please ??? 🙏 thank you so much
Great work Brian
I have a 06 F150 Lariat 4x4 Supercrew that’s reading high voltage on the gauge but the voltage meter is reading 14.6….could this be my problem before I buy an alternator tomorrow?
Thank you Brian. Really appreciate your videos. Good job.
Amazing......all for a fuse.....GREAT WORK!
Brian, the Ford whisperer
Great diagnostic!!👍👍👍
I have a 2014 f150 with a 3.5 eco. My transmission shift REALLY hard from 1st to second when trans is cold. This gets better within 10 minutes of driving . Also when its cold and im driving with cruise going down hill, the down shift is also really hard. Any ideas? Thanks and great videos!
I am having an issue with a 2007 Ford five hundred. I am getting intermittent high voltage, as high as 18V.
When this occurs PO563 is set, when this is not occurring there are no codes, sort of, that check charging system pops up, and if i run a KOER test code PO622 shows up, but the check engine mil in not set.
As of right now The batter has been changed, the old one fried. Alternator changed multiple times. The pig tail to the alt has been replaced, the original had some play in the wires where they went into the plug. the ECM was swapped and all wires from the battery to the alt, starter, fuse bloc and neg to engine ground have been replaced and still having issues. I have checked all the fuses multiple time and have not found any that have been blown
I got a 2007 eddie Bauer edition ford explorer no codes what so ever but I'm getting hard shifts an RPM jumps up just a little bit but enough you feel it it doesn't do it while idling. Any ideas already did plugs
Another great instructional video !! Thanks a lot..
Inspecting a blown fuse is important as it often shows the nature of the failure. Hard shorts sputter the element. Slow shorts often show sagging. Mechanical failures or corrosion will show environmental problems.
With the 2005 Lincoln navigator 5.4 3v and 2005 Ford Expedition 5.4 3v using the same engine. Why does a Lincoln Navigator require 91+ Premium fuel? Can I put regular in?
well done! great informative video for the mass's. please keep them coming !!
Please help! I just got a 2013 Ford Fusion 2.0 eco boost and I'm hearing a "hissing" noise coming from the passenger side, you can hear it more from passenger wheel well. No check engine and no loss of power. Does get louder with RPM increasing.
I have a 2006 limited edition explorer v-8 4.6 liter and I was sitting in a drive threw when my truck suddenly dropped itself down into limp mode with a hard shift threw a check engine light and threw check charging system and code p0563…. Alternator and battery both tested fine don’t see blown fuses either! I’m kinda freaking out as this truck has sentimental value to me 😭 any ideas?????
Did you figure out the problem? I have an 06 navigator and having the same problem.
Good info, thanks Brian
Brian, isn’t it true... a fuse will blow only if there is an outside cause? Short, loose ground, bad connection, chaffed insulation?
Any short on the load side of the fuse leg can cause it to blow.
@Thomas Rossi Correct, A fuse will not blow all by itself and a fuse will not "wear out". If a fuse is blown it is because too much current was passed through it.
Hi I have a 08 audi a4 I have the same code and my PRNDS illuminate and I can't go into any gear
what is the proper operating voltage? I have always been told it should be around 14.4, but on my 2008 explorer it wants to run around 13.3. when first started it will be around 14, but after a couple minutes it will start to go down to 13.3 and settles there. everything works fine, and it has been like this for as long as I have owned it. so I wasn't sure if this was normal behavior or if it was an alternator or regulator problem. a couple years ago I asked the dealer to look at it when I was in for an oil change and they said nothing was wrong with it.
Normal voltage is 14.25v most times so it can push back into the battery. Remember with it being pcm controlled if it does not need it the pcm will command a lower duty cycle and help with idle sag and fuel economy.
reason for pcm control (one of them) is to help reduce the load on the alternator thus the load it exerts on the engine. they have done similar with power steering systems and a/c. less load less fuel consumption less pollutants . so the days of 14 volts as a norm are nearing its end anything over 12.65 will charge a battery albeit slowly.
New Level Auto Good to c u r up ‘n about. Just been tryin to figure in what ways a phone tech can use a Vantage for four years. It has 250 AC capability. Phone companies used to use 50 volt dc batteries. And when did the tech come along to run more than one line on a pair of wires? When were u introduced to square waves. Sorry. You’re not gonna want to do all that tyyping
hey i got a 98 ford explorer eddie bauer with the 4.0 sohc and i keep getting p0174 bank one and bank two system lean codes i just replace the uper and lower intake manifold gaskets and nothing but the codes keep saying pending i reset them and they just come back one guy said it sounds like a short in my computer you ever come across anything like this before
WOW! Great tech tip.
Greate video man love watching them
we have a semiler problem with a 93 ford explorer the rpm rate is high at idle around 1100 my friend has obd 1 scan and is getting high voltage readings.
Could have been a defective fuse from the start, link could have had internal defect causing it to not carry full amperage, overheat and fail over time. Varying load on that circuit could have allowed it to work for years-until it failed.
Very informative, thanks
Manual calls for a 15A fuse, but there was a blown 20A fuse installed? Who installed the larger fuse? Or is the manual wrong?
Wiring diagram calls for a 20A fuse for location 76 as it shows in the wiring diagram in the video.
You're right -- I saw the 15A fuse called out in the Escape diagram.
Can u help me with a p1409 for 2001ford escape
can a signal return~short to ground?
Any tips for making the power running boards on a f150 platinum work better, mine are very slow and in the winter they really don’t wanna move. If it remote start the truck and then open the door there run better. If I start the truck wail there moving they abort going up and do back down. They can go down without much problem just slowly but coming back up there struggling. And a lot of the time they quit.
Spray and work the hinges with a good rust penetrant then once they are moving better follow up with wd-40. Then wipe them off and spray some fluid film on the hinge area.
Great video....
Why is the Fluke showing constant 14.3v and the laptop is showing different?
Input power is under load
What would cause the fuse to blow? What would cause a current overdraw?
That’s what I was thinking
Maybe the previous alternator was the cause
I had one of our 2009 escapes at work pop a ECU fuse. engine ran fine, it just lit up the dash like a Christmas tree and it wouldn't shift to save it's life. never figured out what it was and 3 years on it has not happened again.
Nice!!
Amazing
Good to know thanks
What caused the fuse to blow though?
No idea it could of been anything the customer touched. I inspected for chafes and nothing and that line leads directly to pcm only.
smart charging introduced with the "new oak" pcm...2004ish
No it started in 2001 or sooner my 01 focus had smart charging system.
What blew fuse 76??
Hopefully this won’t be a comeback since fuses do not blow for no reason
Nope they are fully aware unlike other shops.
Drove an entire winter with no heat, Was just a fuse
I can hear the customer now. Why are you charging me so much for just a blown fuse?
Nope they were actually so grateful I found the concern they paid me extra!
You pay for labor time. If it took the tech two hours to find it, you pay 2 hours.
Cool
maybe the fuse went when the customer changed the alternator and wiring harness ?
Odd place for a fuse box.
..👍
I would have just put a new engine and call it fix ........
You put in a new engine, you still have to use all your old parts, lol
They dont give you the whole kit and kaboodle, just a core buddy
Please translate to Arabic on the screen
I got a 2007 eddie Bauer edition ford explorer no codes what so ever but I'm getting hard shifts an RPM jumps up just a little bit but enough you feel it it doesn't do it while idling. Any ideas already did plugs
clean the throttle body. power off and its cable disconnected. brake clean on a rag- wipe down. Also could be a bad coil. watch southmainauto, eric just did a video
Dirtyharry70585 I just did coils, an cleaned throttle body getting better gas mileage but still having the same issue. Thanks for the response..