The Cost of Clones | DIY Guitar Pedals
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2020
- This video is going through the pricing two of the most commonly cloned pedals: The Klon Centaur, and the Analogman King of Tone.
Here are some mildly interesting links:
Tayda Electronics
www.taydaelectronics.com/
PedalPCB Kliche Mini
www.pedalpcb.com/product/klic...
Rullywow Queen of Bone II
www.rullywow.com/product/queen...
My Gear
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/36h26DF
Desktop Power Supply - amzn.to/3p9x5KP
Multimeter - amzn.to/355GKtC
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Camera - amzn.to/32pWuG6
Tripod 1 - amzn.to/36cY4MJ
Tripod 2 - amzn.to/36kNYcW
Microphone - amzn.to/3p78JBj
Mic Adapter - amzn.to/2JMdj7T
Recorder - amzn.to/2U6iL7j
Audio Interface - amzn.to/3n2OMd3
Recording Microphone - amzn.to/36tPARJ
Recording Microphone (Acoustic) - amzn.to/2Ie5rvq
Mic Stand - amzn.to/32lbeGc
Guitar Stand - amzn.to/3mZ2EoH
Amplifier Stand - amzn.to/36dI39t
Guitar Cables - amzn.to/2Ig7HSo
Mic Cables - amzn.to/3ezVKTT
Pedal Power Supply - amzn.to/2JN96kk
#pougnetpedals #diygutarpedals #pedalpcb #rullywow 
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Building guitar pedals is a very deep rabbit hole. Once you go down that rabbit hole you'll find yourself spending waaaay more money than you would if you just bought the freaking pedals you initially wanted that urged you to start building one. All jokes aside, being able to build something that works is a very proud moment.
Additionally, acquiring some more complex knowledge around electronics will help you mod and/or design circuits exactly how you want them. It's not that much about the cost as it is about the fun and the overall experience. My advice to anyone that wants to start building anything around electronics is practice soldering a lot. I can not stress that enough. Having clean good solder joints is essential. Get a veroboard and spend like 5 bucks on random components and start soldering. Also, triple check everything. It will spare you the frustration of trying to understand why the pedal doesn't work, only to find out that a diode or an electrolytic cap was put in with the wrong polarity.
I'll have to somewhat disagree with the choosing of carbon resistors instead of metal film. It's like 0.002$ difference. Probably the audible difference will be negligible if any, but I've found out that skimming on parts is a huge mistake in the long run. Get the best parts that you can afford. The same goes for soldering irons and solder. Having a good soldering iron and high quality solder will not only help you build a better pedal, but ease the whole process and make it more enjoyable overall.
Love the comment. Great feedback!
@@pougnetpedals The fun fact is that last week I ordered the parts for my King of Tone clone. I designed my own 4 layer PCB (thanks to the JLCPCB offer) with a single KoT side, so by using two pcbs I practically have a KoT 😉 The cost was 0.6€/PCB shipped and the rest of the components costed around 50€.
I bought the best components money could buy (wima film capacitors, Panasonic electrolytics, lumberg jacks etc) and the cost was still way lower even than the reverb clones. Investing in quality components is essential to making great pedals imho.
I think the problem with most people making clones is the "skimming wherever I can" mentality. That's why there is that "the clone doesn't sound as good as the original" opinion around the net. Given that the schematic is correct and the pcb layout is done meticulously, the clone can sound even "better" than the original if quality components are used. That's my 2$.
This is a great topic. Here is where I land and maybe where we differ. I believe a quality component is durable, and works as expected. For example, a crappy resistor may have leads that easily break when I am seeding them. A junk capacitor is one that is not able to hold charge. The difference between a 5% resistor and a 1% resistor is tolerance not quality. I have seen many crappy 1% resistors. Cost can be an indicator of quality, but there is a diminishing return on it. Normally, the best parts money can buy usually means they have a slightly longer lifespan. I agree with you that paying a little more money on components may extend the life of your circuit, but personally I feel like everything I showed in the video would not have to be replaced for many, many years. With respect to what you hear. I don't think anybody can hear the difference between a good quality generic and a name brand component. It doesn't make sense that you would, if they do the exact same thing. Similarly, I think the audible difference between a 5% resistor and a 1% resistor is negligible. Especially when you have 10% (CTS) or 20% (Alpha) pots for external controls. Pedal manufacturers have the same issue. No two pedals are the exact same. The main thing for DIYers is making sure you use the right components. I am thinking about capacitors here. Early in my building days I used ceramic capacitors interchangeably for box and film. That makes a difference! Ceramics are microphonic and should only be used at very low pF values. Also, DIYers need to be careful swapping transistors, ICs, and diodes for "equivalents". You should always look at the curves and their spec sheets and not rely only on DIY forums. Great discussion though. I think every DIYer finds their own sweet spot for their builds
@@pougnetpedals Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that because you used carbon resistors instead of metal film, your pedal is of lesser quality. Resistance is resistance. It doesn't matter if it's carbon, metal film, or a FET used as resistor as long as it's the right value. I'm talking about the overall mentality.
For example one might say that a metal film capacitor is always better than a ceramic or a MLCC. Wrong. In power supply filtering ceramics are much better than metal film. Knowing where to use each component and buying the "best" in that category is what will make the overall quality great.
The way I see this is that I'm primarily doing this for fun. I don't have a long waiting list or 20 employees to pay. Each different pedal I build, I will most likely build it once (for myself at least, not including friends) , so spending the extra money to buy the best components once, is worth it. If I had to make 10-20 pedals I would definately be more considerate of the overall costs, but spending 7$ more once is worth it, to me at least.
Great little convo we've had! Most of my friends see me as a "nerd" and never want to talk about these things 😂
My wife thinks I am a nerd as well. I definitely see your point though. It just comes down to personally preference. This is likely a good idea for a future video. Manufacturer (which is likely surface mount) vs generic brand component clone (maybe on stripboard) vs name brand component clone (on pcb).
Excellent video! Thank you for posting this, really helped me with my first couple of builds!
Glad I could help!
This video was really helpful for me, thanks. I also enjoyed one of your build videos. Subbed in.
I hope to build some of my own pedals this year.
Really appreciate this (and several of your other) video. I’ve built a few pedals from “all-in-one” kits before (BYOC, StewMac), but I’m now starting to try building from a PCB alone, and sourcing my own parts. I was absolutely giddy when I saw all the available boards on PedalPCB, so I’m super excited to build some great pedals.
Thank you for a very useful video!
Glad it was helpful!
Yay I’m your 1000th sub . Great channel mate .
Thanks for the sub!
Cheap hobby really. It's also a great learning and skill set activity.
Great video. You do miss 2 important points though: 1) Many of the Chinese clone pedals are under $20 (e.g. Mosky Silver or Gold are Klone clones); do you want to spend $20 more to do it yourself? 2) Most pedals (there are exceptions) can also be built using stripboard instead of a PCB; this will cut your costs down by about $10 but it will require more skill.
Very true. I use stripboard all the time, but a good quality pcb just makes things go faster. Also, my perspective, I would think that it is worth the extra $20 for handwired, or to avoid surface mount components you usually find in moskys. Mostly because it is easier to repair. Great points though!
Why would I want to buy a Chinese clone?
I'd love to see a video on choosing which type of capacitors to use in a circuit
I will put it on the list!
@@pougnetpedalsdid you do it?
my BOM list the caps a couple are speced to use film caps, what kind do i use for the others it doesnt say
I really want to learn how to build my own pedal. I have a little experience with resisters and LEDs on some of those boards I can't remember the name of from years ago taking a HAM radio course when I was 9 years old but thats as far as my knowledge goes beyond soldering. I have a little soldering experience. Any advice on where's a good place for me to start? I can read schematics from air spreads which look very similar to electronic schematics, though they use a lot of different symbols. Would you have any advice for me on where to start, where to go next and what to do finally to build my own pedal? I have joined r/diypedals on reddit just a day ago, I don't want to bother posting because I'm so new to it and it seems a lot of people there want to see builds rather than educating. Any help would be awesome and appreciated! Thanks.
Watching your vids, I've noticed the intro screen guitar is too loud. Otherwise, great vids :)
Noted!
Thanks! I was trying to find components for a PedalPCB build on my own, and it was pretty overwhelming. I’m still a bit confused about what codes mean which capacitors though. How do you know if you need ceramic, electrolytic etc?
Often the build document will specify whether a capacitor is electrolytic, box film (or mylar), ceramic, multilayer monolithic, tantalum, etc. If you spend some time just looking over build docs you can get the hang of it pretty quickly. What gets confusing to me is when you can use one or the other and that's not usually specified.
IC's and resistors and diodes are all generally labeled well and again the build doc is your best friend. Once you get a basic understanding of what the outlines on the board look like you'll be able to identify what you need (sometimes the board is released before the build doc or B.O.M.)
All that being said I can't support Pedalpcb enough. I think they are a great jumping off point. Although B.Y.O.C has kits and that's what I cut my teeth on.
18v...or less? Is that true?
one thing i like about doing it myself.. if you buy a new $25 pedal it has tiny tiny transistors for example.. it's hard to try new things and switch out parts. build it youself and you can tinker alot. plus you made it not a machine mass produced!
Bulk of my payments include time, which rn I have a plenty
I'd pay someone just to use Tayda's website for me.
Really? I don't find it bad at all. Much more user friendly than regular electronics sites like mouser or digikey
@@pougnetpedals You're right. I normally just brew a cup of coffee and spend a couple hours getting stocked up. Just another hidden cost that needs to be included in the final unit price. It can be shocking to newcomers how important inventory and distribution are to profitability (or really, affordability). I'm at the point now where i might spend $65 a month on parts to replenish my stock from having made 3-5 projects the previous month. You'd have to be a pretty savvy shopper to get 3-5 new gizmos per month for that price.