It just saves you an extra step at the end of your contact wash where you don’t need to rinse off any soap residue. You go straight to drying. That’s all .
Power clean at 10 to 1 would be far more economical than both lift and gyeon foam. What would you say are the advantages to using a dedicated pre foam soap vs foaming an apc?
The most important advantage to a dedicated pre was soap vs an apc will be the surfactants. Apc dries everything out over time where dedicated soaps are more gentle on the surface over time. That alone in my opinion is worth having a product like this.
@@DetailProjects Depends how much you dilute each product. 10:1 Power Clean would be much stronger than a high alkaline foam simply because a foam is diluted 100:1+ if diluted 10:1 in a foam cannon. So if you were to dilute an APC to that same dilution, I'd argue neither would be strong enough to dry out rubber trim etc.
I have found Optimum Power Clean to be more effective than Gyeon Foam. The only foam product that appears to clean extremely well is Bilt Hamber Auto Foam or Touchless. Power Clean only has surfactants and polymers, no solvents. So it won't cause any drying issues at all.
@@miscellaneous5215 Most Gyeon products air on the weaker side, even their APC for example. One thing I'll say about power clean is that it's sodium hydroxide based, personally I think I'd prefer Koch Chemie greenstar for a slightly weaker but safer APC. For foaming I find Koch Chemie active foam works cleans very well yet is neutral when diluted correctly.
Both will clean the surface very well, however I will give the edge to Gyeon Foam as it foams wayyy more than lift does. I noticed because it foams so well it allows more dwell time on the surface and is able to pull more dirt off with ease. Not to hype this product but I already made the switch from lift to foam. But both products will get the job done.
@@ceementalitydepends on your dilution. If you add more water ratio, it will be less effective but not as harsh. I personally move from lift to Spray Nine 3:7. I just simply spray it wet and let it sit for a minute or 2 then rinse. Most bugs will be gone after the rinse while still maintaining some hydrophobic property of the previous coating. Road grimes and oily car gone. Then i will proceed with carpro hydro2foam to clean and seal my car.
I actually tried absolute for the first time in this video I made. I’m still testing it out before I can come to any conclusions but so far I’m impressed!
In terms of cleaning abilities both are on par, however I will give the slightest edge to Gyeon Foam because it produces a thicker foam therefore it is able to cling on the surface a bit longer giving me more time to emulsify the contaminants and also it’s cheaper cost per use. But honestly you can’t go wrong with either.
Missed you man! Thanks for the great review as always!!!! ❤
I just don’t get the rinseless wash . You already have the hose from rinsing off the pre wash foam. Especially on a car thats this dirty.
It just saves you an extra step at the end of your contact wash where you don’t need to rinse off any soap residue. You go straight to drying. That’s all .
Power clean at 10 to 1 would be far more economical than both lift and gyeon foam. What would you say are the advantages to using a dedicated pre foam soap vs foaming an apc?
The most important advantage to a dedicated pre was soap vs an apc will be the surfactants. Apc dries everything out over time where dedicated soaps are more gentle on the surface over time. That alone in my opinion is worth having a product like this.
@@DetailProjects Depends how much you dilute each product. 10:1 Power Clean would be much stronger than a high alkaline foam simply because a foam is diluted 100:1+ if diluted 10:1 in a foam cannon. So if you were to dilute an APC to that same dilution, I'd argue neither would be strong enough to dry out rubber trim etc.
I have found Optimum Power Clean to be more effective than Gyeon Foam. The only foam product that appears to clean extremely well is Bilt Hamber Auto Foam or Touchless. Power Clean only has surfactants and polymers, no solvents. So it won't cause any drying issues at all.
@@miscellaneous5215 Most Gyeon products air on the weaker side, even their APC for example. One thing I'll say about power clean is that it's sodium hydroxide based, personally I think I'd prefer Koch Chemie greenstar for a slightly weaker but safer APC. For foaming I find Koch Chemie active foam works cleans very well yet is neutral when diluted correctly.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg OPC isn't sodium hydroxide based. In fact per Dr. G it's one of the safest APC's on the market.
Which in your opinion will clean the surface better, Carpro lift or Gyeon foam? Will you be switching to foam moving forward?
Both will clean the surface very well, however I will give the edge to Gyeon Foam as it foams wayyy more than lift does. I noticed because it foams so well it allows more dwell time on the surface and is able to pull more dirt off with ease. Not to hype this product but I already made the switch from lift to foam. But both products will get the job done.
@@DetailProjectsdetail shop told me not to use carpro lift and to use gyeon pre foam as lift can remove waxes and is harsh
@@ceementalitydepends on your dilution. If you add more water ratio, it will be less effective but not as harsh. I personally move from lift to Spray Nine 3:7. I just simply spray it wet and let it sit for a minute or 2 then rinse. Most bugs will be gone after the rinse while still maintaining some hydrophobic property of the previous coating. Road grimes and oily car gone. Then i will proceed with carpro hydro2foam to clean and seal my car.
Great video! Have you tried P&S Absolute yet? What is your favorite rinseless wash right now?
I actually tried absolute for the first time in this video I made. I’m still testing it out before I can come to any conclusions but so far I’m impressed!
Which one is better lift or foam?
In terms of cleaning abilities both are on par, however I will give the slightest edge to Gyeon Foam because it produces a thicker foam therefore it is able to cling on the surface a bit longer giving me more time to emulsify the contaminants and also it’s cheaper cost per use. But honestly you can’t go wrong with either.
have you tried Bilt hamber auto phone using 4-5 oz in a foam canon seems to be really get thr job done, Cheers from Ottawa
I want to try this one out but it was out of stock for the longest time
@@DetailProjects the BH is in a league of its own among the pre-soak products.