Hello! Couple of tips from someone that has been in the laser abalation industry for over 10 years. 1.Continuous Wave lasers need to be set at the right frequency of the substrate that is being cleaned. (major difference between chassis frame and truck body substrate frequencies)2. Paint remove on a autobody or anything thinner than 7mills need to be done with a Pulse laser as it uses a diference spectrum type of laser and will not heat the substrate (aka will not heat or warp substrate). 3. Using a 2nd Air source to blow on substrate while cleaning improves colling effect and causes less damage. 4. Have a controller/wand that will let you use multiple patterns and "heavy duty" verses "non-destructive" settings, makes a world of difference in ablation results. Hope this helps!
I believe if you angle the laser so that the angle isnt 90 degress pointing straight down at the object but more at 40-45 degrees itll create a smoother finish. I noticed this finish when he was lasing some curved parts and at times the angle of the laser to these parts was no longer 90 degrees and the laser appears to "scrape" the rust off instead of shooting it off popping up the rust without scratching deep into the surface since its pointed at an angle like a spatula flipping a pancake.
I've seen these before but never thought one of us average folks would have one so this is cool to watch CT. Interesting how sometimes it cleans off the surface rust but not totally down to metal? Maybe going over the areas more or turning up the power on thick rust areas would work?
Thanks for sharing this content. I have a degree in Laser Science from RUclips University and I can conclude lasers are NOT the way to go for removing rust off auto panels, and wheel rims. Lasers appears to leave a rough surface covered in scratches from the laser and noticed some areas where the rust was heavily built up where the laser only removed the surface rust of the rust piles and left these corrosive piles whereas a sander would knock down everything to a flat and smoother surface than the laser. HOWEVER, the laser cannot be beat when it comes to very detailed, narrow, hard to reach, hard to maneuver tight crevices. Then again a sandblaster could probably match the area coverage in these tight areas if not better since the sand can travel out of a straight line path whereas the laser cannot. (a good example was when he was lasing bolts sticking up creating a perfect shadow of rust behind them. The laser couldnt stretch or bed around the bolts.
Did it etch lines int he Magnesium or was that just the laser marks? the seats were really cool. they are super hard to clean with anything laser seemed to be the best option.
I recommended it in the comments of last video, and avoided the comments in this video until he got to the VW motor because I didn't want any spoilers. Gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed.
I tried to demonstrate that in this video with the 1950s VW Karmann Ghia engine lid. I monitor it with a laser thermostat. It appress to be ok. Of course this could vary depending on how long you stay in one spot and how you spread the heat. Also, you can adjust the power from 0 to 100 to achieve different results.
I would like to get one of those so I can compare the two. I hear they work good but make a bit of a mess kind of like sand blasting. They all have different surface results.
i think that anything you can get in a sandblasting cabinet, then do it, but the laser comes into its own with big metal stuff like the chassis, and parts you cannot get too
I have a 1500cw and a 100w pulse machine. Here’s what I suggest to try, on heavy rust or even the white paint, set your frequency to 5 to 8 khz, maybe even slow down your swing, what I found is you will cut through rough stuff faster, then afterwards I raise my frequency and speed as well as width, this makes like a clean sweep as well as spreads the heat out further and making the heat less direct. Also, between this video and your other video, you are sometime shooting on an angle, it’s more efficient to stay perpendicular to what you are aiming at, keeps your entire beam in that “sweet spot” Try these things out, I’d be happy to hear back what your results are
Does this machine have different patterns? Ive been researching lasers for about 3 weeks now to decide what one to get. Can you adjust the width of the pattern?
Simply crazy results looks effortless those rims come up magnificent ready for paint the old wire wheel don't cut it anymore new business on the side CT laser technology its a real blast
Yes, they are pretty cool. Here is a link if you are interested. Check out SFX Laser! www.lyxcmachinery.com/sfx-laser-cleaning-machine-blc1000w1500w2000w3000w-p4390034.html
Cool machine However, the results are just not quite "finished" quality. I guess the line finish is making the parts look 3d printed gross. Is there a different head attachment to change the rastering path?
Interesting... reminds me, as a kid, of when I'd use a nozzle on a garden hose and write stuff on dirty concrete. ;-) There's a sort of satisfaction. ;-!
I think it would be better not to use the device on bearing seats, camshafts or sealing surfaces. Unfortunately, the devices are very expensive and I think if you use them inexperienced you can cause damage.
Hi. Your moving the laser-head much to fast. It's not a airbrush-pistol. And when you want to have a really clean surface you must use the beam until on the actual position there is no "sparkling". Greetings !
Makina güzel iş yapıyor ama sıkıntı var makinayı neden çok hızlı hareket ettiriyorsun o yüzden çizik çizik oluyor belli bir hızda hareket ettirsen o çizikler olmaz
Man, I'm so glad I don't own one of those! I'd never get anything done on my projects! I'd spend the entire day zapping stuff. Wheelbarrow? Zap zap zap. My tools? Zap zap zap. My old Dodge D100? Zap zap zap. Storage shed? Zap zap zap.
-- Eventually... you run out of things to zap. It isn't any different than using a media blasting cabinet or even an external blasting setup - you run out of rusty parts at some point. Or the blasting media. Don't ask me how I know that! Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
@@CTmoog I like your channel CT. You tackle some tough projects without any fear but I'm not spending two hours watching you zap the rust off of things with a lazer.
Hey Guys! Check out SFX Laser!
www.lyxcmachinery.com/sfx-laser-cleaning-machine-blc1000w1500w2000w3000w-p4390034.html😎😎😎
Link 404 😅
Hello! Couple of tips from someone that has been in the laser abalation industry for over 10 years. 1.Continuous Wave lasers need to be set at the right frequency of the substrate that is being cleaned. (major difference between chassis frame and truck body substrate frequencies)2. Paint remove on a autobody or anything thinner than 7mills need to be done with a Pulse laser as it uses a diference spectrum type of laser and will not heat the substrate (aka will not heat or warp substrate). 3. Using a 2nd Air source to blow on substrate while cleaning improves colling effect and causes less damage. 4. Have a controller/wand that will let you use multiple patterns and "heavy duty" verses "non-destructive" settings, makes a world of difference in ablation results. Hope this helps!
I believe if you move at a slower pace and try to keep the distance the same, you will get a better result.
I remember my kids drawing all over the walls with gel-crayons when they were supposed to be sleeping. This reminds me of that.
I believe if you angle the laser so that the angle isnt 90 degress pointing straight down at the object but more at 40-45 degrees itll create a smoother finish. I noticed this finish when he was lasing some curved parts and at times the angle of the laser to these parts was no longer 90 degrees and the laser appears to "scrape" the rust off instead of shooting it off popping up the rust without scratching deep into the surface since its pointed at an angle like a spatula flipping a pancake.
The first time I have ever heared of or seen this technology is here on your channel. You are on to something here! Wow 👍👍
Thanks Mac!
You could make a YT channel just vaporizing parts. It's so satisfying man. Stress reliever.
This "Star Wars"- thing is so quick and efficient .👍
Hey buddy! Yes, it works pretty good!
@@CTmoog does this thing require a lot of power?
@snub361 - 240 volts, two legs of 120 volts - it can run on a welder or dryer plug.
Nice job cool Laser good show 😃👏👏👏👍👍👍
Thanks man! 👍
I could watch this all day 🖤
I've seen these before but never thought one of us average folks would have one so this is cool to watch CT. Interesting how sometimes it cleans off the surface rust but not totally down to metal? Maybe going over the areas more or turning up the power on thick rust areas would work?
After 2 long laser rust removal videos, I'm pretty sure we get the message. It is a cool machine though...
I was waiting for someone to say that! =) back to work! =) hahah!
To reduce or mitigate the side to side scribble lines, would it benefit from a higher frequency rate and / or slower movement over the workpiece?
Yes, that might help. I'm going to spend some more time with it this week.
You’re moving the wand way too fast.
Not gonna lie, I'm a bit disappointed the magnesium VW case didn't go up like a road flare.
Some CT laser therapy ⚡️⚡️⚡️very cool bud it’s amazing how technology has come I bet that laser rust removal system cost a mint love to get one
Thanks buddy!
in combination with other methods, it looks like it is definitely helpful
Thanks for sharing this content. I have a degree in Laser Science from RUclips University and I can conclude lasers are NOT the way to go for removing rust off auto panels, and wheel rims. Lasers appears to leave a rough surface covered in scratches from the laser and noticed some areas where the rust was heavily built up where the laser only removed the surface rust of the rust piles and left these corrosive piles whereas a sander would knock down everything to a flat and smoother surface than the laser.
HOWEVER, the laser cannot be beat when it comes to very detailed, narrow, hard to reach, hard to maneuver tight crevices. Then again a sandblaster could probably match the area coverage in these tight areas if not better since the sand can travel out of a straight line path whereas the laser cannot. (a good example was when he was lasing bolts sticking up creating a perfect shadow of rust behind them. The laser couldnt stretch or bed around the bolts.
Did it etch lines int he Magnesium or was that just the laser marks? the seats were really cool. they are super hard to clean with anything laser seemed to be the best option.
Am I the only one who got nervous when you were zapping the magnesium?
I recommended it in the comments of last video, and avoided the comments in this video until he got to the VW motor because I didn't want any spoilers. Gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed.
😊😊😊😊😊
Does the heat from t(at laser warp automotive sheet metal?
I tried to demonstrate that in this video with the 1950s VW Karmann Ghia engine lid. I monitor it with a laser thermostat. It appress to be ok. Of course this could vary depending on how long you stay in one spot and how you spread the heat. Also, you can adjust the power from 0 to 100 to achieve different results.
And here I was getting excited about using dry ice to clean old metal...
I would like to get one of those so I can compare the two. I hear they work good but make a bit of a mess kind of like sand blasting. They all have different surface results.
i think that anything you can get in a sandblasting cabinet, then do it, but the laser comes into its own with big metal stuff like the chassis, and parts you cannot get too
WOW! Super cool
Yes it is! =) Thank you!
I have a 1500cw and a 100w pulse machine. Here’s what I suggest to try, on heavy rust or even the white paint, set your frequency to 5 to 8 khz, maybe even slow down your swing, what I found is you will cut through rough stuff faster, then afterwards I raise my frequency and speed as well as width, this makes like a clean sweep as well as spreads the heat out further and making the heat less direct. Also, between this video and your other video, you are sometime shooting on an angle, it’s more efficient to stay perpendicular to what you are aiming at, keeps your entire beam in that “sweet spot”
Try these things out, I’d be happy to hear back what your results are
CT, good afternoon. Thank You for sharing this video.
I would like to ask You, is this tool expensive? Where did You Buy it?
Thank You
can you work on sealing surfaces and threads with it, because it leaves such a streak mark on the surface
That thing is just awesome a real game changer
it's something from out of this world! =)
Try angles...- | \ /, and keep your passes similar speed and distance. It comes out WAY smoother
These laser videos are like trying to watch peanut butter roll up hill. 😂
hahah! =)
The old saying I know is... Molassas going up hill on a cold morning.
@@CTmoog The old saying I know is... Molassas going up hill on a cold morning.
outstanding job //are they for rent ?
Does this machine have different patterns? Ive been researching lasers for about 3 weeks now to decide what one to get. Can you adjust the width of the pattern?
Where I buy one of this from and how much.
are the lines left after rough to the touch or does it create like a laser pitting in the metal or its just discoloration?
very cool 😎
Try to play with pulsation frequency to avoid the "etching lines" at surface.
Are You planning to apply it on the Porsche 914?
What would they come out with next?
One thing that would be nice would be to have the ability to change the power and frequency settings on the handheld unit itself.
Simply crazy results looks effortless those rims come up magnificent ready for paint the old wire wheel don't cut it anymore new business on the side CT laser technology its a real blast
What wattage laser are you using ?
Achou um brinquedo pra passar o tempo então, muito top esse laser.
Obrigado por compartilhar conosco 😲😲😲😲😲
110 or 220 volts ?
220-240
I’m afraid if I shot that at my car it would disappear!
me too! =)
That laser rest remove machine. How much does it cost? I think it's really cool. I watched you when you did your frame
Yes, they are pretty cool. Here is a link if you are interested.
Check out SFX Laser!
www.lyxcmachinery.com/sfx-laser-cleaning-machine-blc1000w1500w2000w3000w-p4390034.html
Cool machine However, the results are just not quite "finished" quality. I guess the line finish is making the parts look 3d printed gross. Is there a different head attachment to change the rastering path?
It reminds me of a tattoo ink removal laser can you imagine the pain ouch😵💫
Big Question. How Much does it cost???
Depends on the size and manufacture. I will leave a link to this one in the comment section.
How much?💲💲💲
👍
Wow
Hey Mike! Long time buddy! How's it going? =)
This video is gonna drive the flat earthers really mad 😊😅. A machine from area 51 surely hehe
what a dream
It's impressive!
Seems to make stuff heat up quite a bit. What would happen if….say…a mother in law accidentally was in the line of fire?
Кайф👍🏻
Interesting... reminds me, as a kid, of when I'd use a nozzle on a garden hose and write stuff on dirty concrete. ;-) There's a sort of satisfaction. ;-!
I think it would be better not to use the device on bearing seats, camshafts or sealing surfaces. Unfortunately, the devices are very expensive and I think if you use them inexperienced you can cause damage.
I wonder if the laser was spinning it would be better' just an idea.
not a bad idea...
Amazing tool... I love it 🥰... I want one 🙏🙏🙏
Damn, I WISH I Could Have Such Laser, I Could Make A Ton Of Money With It !
Hi. Your moving the laser-head much to fast. It's not a airbrush-pistol.
And when you want to have a really clean surface you must use the beam until on the actual position there is no "sparkling". Greetings !
How am I ever going to manage another day without one…?
Makina güzel iş yapıyor ama sıkıntı var makinayı neden çok hızlı hareket ettiriyorsun o yüzden çizik çizik oluyor belli bir hızda hareket ettirsen o çizikler olmaz
🤗👍👌⭐💯
You sure love that new toy 🙄
50 ou 60 hz
Both 50Hz and 60Hz are ok.
Man, I'm so glad I don't own one of those! I'd never get anything done on my projects! I'd spend the entire day zapping stuff. Wheelbarrow? Zap zap zap. My tools? Zap zap zap. My old Dodge D100? Zap zap zap. Storage shed? Zap zap zap.
HAHA! yes, exactly! Once you start you can't stop! =)
-- Eventually... you run out of things to zap. It isn't any different than using a media blasting cabinet or even an external blasting setup - you run out of rusty parts at some point. Or the blasting media. Don't ask me how I know that! Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Can I start dropping parts off to you? 😁😁
I Guess You SHould Not Get This Laser In Your EYe, Huh?
You have to blow something up with this thing!!! Why have it if you're not going to do something stupid!!!
10 thousand dollars 😵
So langsam reicht es aber auch mit der Laserentrostung!
preferisco i Bro alle tro n
almeno che le tro non abbiano altre tro per miei bro
Please get some meat and vaporize it on camera. I want to see what happens
I tried to cook bacon with mine last winter. Didn’t do anything to it surprisingly lol. I might put that vid up on my channel.
Works a lot better then sandblasting
Two hour long videos of you removing rust with a laser. This could have been summed up in 15 minutes. Thumbs down on both videos and no watch time.
ouch.... =(
@@CTmoog I like your channel CT. You tackle some tough projects without any fear but I'm not spending two hours watching you zap the rust off of things with a lazer.
Why are you here then? You see the title and length then whine about it? Go somewhere else if it’s not to your taste my friend.
It run on 110-115 or 220-240 volts?
220-240 volts