Hi guys, check the video descriptions for more info and links to videos etc that I used to help me, I always provide most of what I talk about in my video in the description so please check their first before you have any questions. Thanks!
I hope you never stop making vids on Retroid stuff. Got a RP3+ for my gf for Valentines and have spent the last 2-3 weeks setting it up for her and your vids have been amazingly helpful and entertaining
Woah thanks for doing this. I'm the one who did the blue Odin with the JoJo sticker and rubber grips on the back if you remember that. Never knew it was possible to dye plastics in a factory like finish sort of way. I've always just used spray paint whenever I've tried to change the color of plastic. That said it can be extremely annoying working with spray paint due to all the things that can happen such as paint cracking, flaking, over spray, air bubbles, and dust or debris landing on it even while it's still drying. Basically without an extremely controlled environment it's hard to get a close to perfect finish with spray paint. Especially if it's something you'll be holding for long periods of time, it's maybe not the best. The smell of the paint gets on your hands and it feels a bit sticky. It doesn't really glide on the finger like a factory paint job does. Anyway so yeah this looks really promising. I might actually try this with some of my plastics. Maybe something like a controller or an old device I don't really use might be a good test for this. If I knew I could do this before I really might've used it already. Just a bit scared to try it on more expensive things so probably best for me to do a test run first. I'm curious though if this would work on the clear shell of the Odin. I've always kinda liked the protective shell but I put those rubber grips on the back because the plastic is way too smooth and glossy. It slipped in the hand a bit and felt pretty much just like how you described with the black shell. Curious if the Acetone mixture could roughen up the finish a bit. Also I'm really curious about doing color mixtures. Would be cool if you could get some neat hydro dipped like paint jobs. I'm not sure if that's possible though. Might only be able to do like a two tone, three tone, etc type of finish.
I do controllers with a light sanding with a touch of water to get the dust, and then paint them with watery acrylic paint and a brush. I paint a lot so I can get it fairly smooth, but when you finish it with a spray varnish almost all of the inconsistencies will come out. I just did an Xbox One controller in Culture Hustle's Black 2.0 and then sealed it in matte varnish. It looks sick with some purple metal joysticks and the finish feels fantastic in the hands.
I got a RP3+ used on ebay and the seller didn't mention the L1 trigger was broken. So i took foam from the power button and stuck it under the broken piece area and is now good as new. Broke from the thin plastic hinge thingy.
This is pretty dope. Found this while looking for a video to remove the screen, coz i was hoping to remove the retroid logo. It's pretty distracting to me.
People are also reporting (of course all anecdotal at this point) that the solid black (possible other solid colors as well?) are much more brittle plastics, and are reporting damage after small falls, whereas numerous reports of clear shells surviving much higher drops. I will be going clear shell for sure, but I am also partial to black, so this is perfect timing!
I love that you are doing this, I always tempted the idea of dying the shells a different color cause they didnt give the option for any kind of red shells. Im currently doing a white pearl shell, but im might do a clear red shell, since that was the shell color i wanted the most. Just not sure if getting the purple base or blue base would result in a better clear red
It's gonna be quite likely that the purple or blue will still be there even if you try to dye it red, especially when you shine a light through it. Not sure tbh, let me know how it goes!
Nice to see it in motion. Could you go into more details on the vita thumbsticks covers? I’m having a hard time imagining how they slip over the original sticks without interfering with range of motion.
Well you have to peel off the tops of the original sticks (at which point they won't go back on as snug as they were before) then stretch the vita grips over the stick. The grips are slightly thicker but they're replacing the grip of the old stick so the range of motion is still perfect.
i tried installing the vita d-pad onto the RP3+ and unfortunately i'm not sure why but it just does not feel right at all. at first i took the vita D-PAD off of the rubber pad and sanded the entire bottom surface of it to be approx the same depth as the RP3's D-Pad, then reinstalled it with the Vita's rubber membrane and tried it out and the buttons just don't work, its like they stay pressed at all times. then i figured maybe i should use the RP3's rubber membrane with the vita d-pad and while it did work it felt really crappy, when i press the buttons they feel like they are not as tactile and clicky as the RP3's D-PAD, so i figured maybe i have over-sanded the vita's D-PAD, so i took another one and sanded it down a little bit less and tried it out and it didn't really fit - this time it was constantly pressing down on all 4 buttons. so then i figured maybe i should use the vita's rubber membrane again but maybe i will trim down its excess rubber - so i trimmed the exess rubber to be essentially nearly identical to the RP3's rubber membrane and tried that - this time the buttons felt rather decent except for the rightmost button, and if i would flick the d-pad it would double press diagonally and sometimes it would produce a double press tactile feeling. so i put the RP3's dpad and rubber membrane back and it felt so much better. i'm really not sure what i am doing wrong here, i personally dislike the RP3's D-PAD because it is not a full flat style d-pad like the vita and psp's d-pads. and that matters to me because when i'm playing tekken with the RP3 the d-pad feels AWFUL to use compared to when i'm playing tekken on my PS Vita 1000 or PSP 3000. heck even the d-pad on my PSP Go feels so much nicer to play tekken with. if you don't mind can you tell me what do you think i'm doing wrong with the vita d-pad mod for the RP3+?
I lost my dome switch rubber membrane for the d-pad on my RP3+ and I don't see a replacement on the Retroid web site. Are the Vita membranes compatible with the RP3? I really don't like the conductive rubber ones. Maybe I should've just bought a whole RP3+ instead of a PCB swap. Keep up the great videos
I would ask those questions on the Retroid discord as someone else might be able to confirm that www.reddit.com/r/retroid/comments/qclocy/official_retroid_pocket_discord_channel/
Do away with the dust protection around the joystick and put switch size ones in. Better cooling as well noticeable better heat management just don't let water get in there.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi guys, check the video descriptions for more info and links to videos etc that I used to help me, I always provide most of what I talk about in my video in the description so please check their first before you have any questions. Thanks!
I hope you never stop making vids on Retroid stuff. Got a RP3+ for my gf for Valentines and have spent the last 2-3 weeks setting it up for her and your vids have been amazingly helpful and entertaining
That's so cool man! I hope she likes it and I'm glad I can help in some way.
Woah thanks for doing this. I'm the one who did the blue Odin with the JoJo sticker and rubber grips on the back if you remember that. Never knew it was possible to dye plastics in a factory like finish sort of way. I've always just used spray paint whenever I've tried to change the color of plastic. That said it can be extremely annoying working with spray paint due to all the things that can happen such as paint cracking, flaking, over spray, air bubbles, and dust or debris landing on it even while it's still drying. Basically without an extremely controlled environment it's hard to get a close to perfect finish with spray paint. Especially if it's something you'll be holding for long periods of time, it's maybe not the best. The smell of the paint gets on your hands and it feels a bit sticky. It doesn't really glide on the finger like a factory paint job does.
Anyway so yeah this looks really promising. I might actually try this with some of my plastics. Maybe something like a controller or an old device I don't really use might be a good test for this. If I knew I could do this before I really might've used it already. Just a bit scared to try it on more expensive things so probably best for me to do a test run first. I'm curious though if this would work on the clear shell of the Odin. I've always kinda liked the protective shell but I put those rubber grips on the back because the plastic is way too smooth and glossy. It slipped in the hand a bit and felt pretty much just like how you described with the black shell. Curious if the Acetone mixture could roughen up the finish a bit. Also I'm really curious about doing color mixtures. Would be cool if you could get some neat hydro dipped like paint jobs. I'm not sure if that's possible though. Might only be able to do like a two tone, three tone, etc type of finish.
I do controllers with a light sanding with a touch of water to get the dust, and then paint them with watery acrylic paint and a brush. I paint a lot so I can get it fairly smooth, but when you finish it with a spray varnish almost all of the inconsistencies will come out. I just did an Xbox One controller in Culture Hustle's Black 2.0 and then sealed it in matte varnish. It looks sick with some purple metal joysticks and the finish feels fantastic in the hands.
Your voice and music choice is so soothing for a modding channel lol
I got a RP3+ used on ebay and the seller didn't mention the L1 trigger was broken. So i took foam from the power button and stuck it under the broken piece area and is now good as new. Broke from the thin plastic hinge thingy.
This is pretty dope. Found this while looking for a video to remove the screen, coz i was hoping to remove the retroid logo. It's pretty distracting to me.
This looks awesome - given me some inspiration to try something similar! Thanks for posting :D
People are also reporting (of course all anecdotal at this point) that the solid black (possible other solid colors as well?) are much more brittle plastics, and are reporting damage after small falls, whereas numerous reports of clear shells surviving much higher drops. I will be going clear shell for sure, but I am also partial to black, so this is perfect timing!
I saw a pic of that actually. That's a shame, yeah the clear shells do feel sturdier.
I did my see through grip with the blue Rit it was nice.
I wish you could still buy the dome switches for the 3+ I think I prefer them over the rubber membrane buttons
I love that you are doing this, I always tempted the idea of dying the shells a different color cause they didnt give the option for any kind of red shells. Im currently doing a white pearl shell, but im might do a clear red shell, since that was the shell color i wanted the most. Just not sure if getting the purple base or blue base would result in a better clear red
It's gonna be quite likely that the purple or blue will still be there even if you try to dye it red, especially when you shine a light through it. Not sure tbh, let me know how it goes!
Nice to see it in motion. Could you go into more details on the vita thumbsticks covers? I’m having a hard time imagining how they slip over the original sticks without interfering with range of motion.
Well you have to peel off the tops of the original sticks (at which point they won't go back on as snug as they were before) then stretch the vita grips over the stick. The grips are slightly thicker but they're replacing the grip of the old stick so the range of motion is still perfect.
Are the rp3 buttons swappable into a vita?
Looks amazing!
i tried installing the vita d-pad onto the RP3+ and unfortunately i'm not sure why but it just does not feel right at all.
at first i took the vita D-PAD off of the rubber pad and sanded the entire bottom surface of it to be approx the same depth as the RP3's D-Pad, then reinstalled it with the Vita's rubber membrane and tried it out and the buttons just don't work, its like they stay pressed at all times.
then i figured maybe i should use the RP3's rubber membrane with the vita d-pad and while it did work it felt really crappy, when i press the buttons they feel like they are not as tactile and clicky as the RP3's D-PAD, so i figured maybe i have over-sanded the vita's D-PAD, so i took another one and sanded it down a little bit less and tried it out and it didn't really fit - this time it was constantly pressing down on all 4 buttons.
so then i figured maybe i should use the vita's rubber membrane again but maybe i will trim down its excess rubber - so i trimmed the exess rubber to be essentially nearly identical to the RP3's rubber membrane and tried that - this time the buttons felt rather decent except for the rightmost button, and if i would flick the d-pad it would double press diagonally and sometimes it would produce a double press tactile feeling.
so i put the RP3's dpad and rubber membrane back and it felt so much better.
i'm really not sure what i am doing wrong here, i personally dislike the RP3's D-PAD because it is not a full flat style d-pad like the vita and psp's d-pads. and that matters to me because when i'm playing tekken with the RP3 the d-pad feels AWFUL to use compared to when i'm playing tekken on my PS Vita 1000 or PSP 3000.
heck even the d-pad on my PSP Go feels so much nicer to play tekken with.
if you don't mind can you tell me what do you think i'm doing wrong with the vita d-pad mod for the RP3+?
I used small bits of white tack for each direction of the d-pad where it touches the membrane, that's the only thing I did differently.
I used the white tact as well but it felt horrible so I put back the original d pad. The buttons however fit perfect! Thank you for your great videos
I lost my dome switch rubber membrane for the d-pad on my RP3+ and I don't see a replacement on the Retroid web site. Are the Vita membranes compatible with the RP3? I really don't like the conductive rubber ones. Maybe I should've just bought a whole RP3+ instead of a PCB swap. Keep up the great videos
I would ask those questions on the Retroid discord as someone else might be able to confirm that www.reddit.com/r/retroid/comments/qclocy/official_retroid_pocket_discord_channel/
What frontend are You using?It looks pretty good.
Did u just dip it?
Were you the guy who put this on Reddit a couple days ago?
Yeah that's me!
@@-roetaka dang, I’ve been watching your videos for a bit now, I like your content Alex! Keep it up
Do away with the dust protection around the joystick and put switch size ones in. Better cooling as well noticeable better heat management just don't let water get in there.