FINALLY fixing the Ranger's misfiring problem! (but not before making it worse)
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
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Just an FYI, The MAF sensor is inside the housing you took off. There are 4 screws on the top of the small block with the wiring connector that holds it in. If you just replace that, you should be able to save about $30.
I had a clogged fuel injector in my 97. Had replaced, cleaned intake and new spark plugs. Runs like a top now. 😊
i’m about to buy a 97 w the third cylinder misfiring, i’ll try this but if this isn’t it then what else could it b
I give this guy credit for trying several solutions. It gives me a starting point. With me, its usually worst case scenario. But thats just God's way of helping me with my patience. Im having the same issue with my '01 B2500. Im going to try these remedies........Rom. 8:31
Mine, on my '01 Ranger, ended up being the coil pack. When I finally took it off after trying everything else, I noticed lines/cracks in the bottom. After replacing it, the "Random Misfire" problem went away. I hope you got yours done by now. Those are some great little trucks.
You need to take your time and diagnose things instead of throwing parts at it all though if you have the money to do so hey at least you have new parts and save the old ones just in case you need it one day
To evernbody still commenting on this:
It was, in fact, a faulty injector. New one made it run perfectly XD
How you figure it out
If it was a refurbished MAS you can sometime have issues. I had the issue for a long time, coil packs and restored air intake to factory because previous owner put cold air intake, absolute perfect now no problems
Anyone with a 2.3 Lima with DIS or a 2.5 should test their coil packs with a multimeter before replacing it. Its not hard, since you're testing the resistance values of the primary and secondary coils inside the pack. A Haynes manual or Chilton's guide should have those resistance values, as Ford stupidly put solid-state electronics above the exhaust manifold. It is not a quality issue with the coils, it is a location issue on the truck -- and the placement guarantees failure.
And, I would recommend cleaning the MAP/MAF sensor with MAF/MAP electronics cleaner before replacing, as well as clearing the codes. OBD-I, you can clear codes by unplugging the battery for 5 minutes, and plugging it back in. On OBD-II, get or borrow a code reader that can erase codes, then test out the fix with at least a half-tank of gas, as it usually takes about 100 miles or so for the ECM/PCM to re-learn active data from the sensors, and possibly throw a code again.
Do a compression test, you might have a leaking valve. On my Ranger it was one cylinder i had 90 psi for a high and 60 psi for a low and it's only at intermittently at idle i would get a check engine light. (and it would idle really rough and the light would blink)
rain coast what had to be done?
@@M4Shocker only fix for a bad valve is pulling the head and fixing it
My 99 Mazda is doing the same thing. Thanks for the info.
when you replace electronic parts , disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes and reconnect , then the computer "relearns" the new parameters
You need to do a compression test
I had a misfire, took it to a mechanic and he determined that the catalytic converters, there are two on my v6 4.0 2007 ford ranger, were plugged. Got that fixed and the truck runs great. This is hard to determine as the cats have to be removed to see if they are blocked.
Exhaust Gas Recirculatory (ERG) or vacuum leak
Auto parts stores lack of quality is why I stopped using them
❤ I had coil issues I ended up doing the ignition module that makes the coil spark thanks for sharing,s ❤
The throttle body gets dirty the most..yes I've fished before and learned the hard way...start with the obvious cleaning..I have 2 rangers..and a exployer. ..
A video on exactly what not to do unless you like wasting time and money.
My 06 Ranger started idling really rough while sitting at a traffic light one night. When the light changed and I began my turn the check engine light started flashing. The whole truck was shaking violently and the engine (when revved up) was making a noise that sounded similar to rod-knocking. Fast forward to the next morning and I replaced all the plugs and wires, but they didn’t make a difference. Fast forward to today (07-06-2020) and I replace 3 of the 6 fuel injectors (AutoZone only had 3), but still nothing has improved. Could it be the other 3 injectors that are bad? The MAF sensor? Fuel pump? Timing chain jumped? Anything! I’m out of ideas and I’m losing my mind over it. I need this truck as it’s my only vehicle and drive it everyday. If anyone has any insight as to what my problem might be please let me know.
I had similar last week changed plugs, wires and coil pack , it seemed fixed for 30 miles and the problem came back except for me I can sit in park and run the idle up for a short and things straighten out for a short bit and check engine light goes out but don`t last long. going to check the injectors next some say that is a worst case scenario. I changed my MAF too Mines an 2002 . I`ll post back here if I can do any good.
gun fisher: I had a buddy come over and look at mine. He was just as baffled as we were. But he did hear that rod-knocking-like noise that I heard and he said to check the valves. I took the valve cover off cylinder bank 1 and found my problem. I have a broken valve on cylinder 6 and it’s not getting any fuel because of that.
Food for some ones thought any way. Just replaced the MAF yesterday did`nt seem to do any good the back yard test of unplugging it said that it was bad. The week before i did the IAC and cleaned the throttle body witch gave some improvement. This is more or less in reverse to actual work done. originally tested the O-2 upstream one was bad replaced both, had a genuine clogged muffler. Found a failing cam sensor replaced all that with a crank sensor with seemed to have a weak magnet and even replaced #4 injector since there is no way to test that bank on a 3.0 with a plastic intake. All that done and the engine light stayed off for 75 miles then came back with a short flash at end of acceleration then the engine light started to stay on afterwards with a short flash cycle at end of most of the accelerations. End up the p0304 code came back with the p0316. I did actually throw a couple parts at it but i deemed my self happier with that than paying out bigger money for a mechanic to try to fix it. At my shop we are still under going the aftermath of a $6500 fix that was done by a ford dealer diagnosing the wrong fix and now it`s off to another mechanic to fix what is supposed to be wrong [ the twin turbo`s ] and this is not the first night mare story i`ve seen so you can figure dummy me wanting to go my own route at least when done I won`t have to worry about other things going bad [ right ! ] [ wrong maybe ] . So along with the engine light is loss of power and mild bucking around 2000 rpm but giving it extra pedal seems to lesson the misfire during acceleration. have checked and checked for vacum leaks but found none. fuel pressure holds steady at 65 psi. so I`ll still be checking to find the cure.
I found the issue. It was a valve spring on cylinder 6 that had snapped.
Was a relatively simple repair. Cheap too. Pack of 4 springs cost me only $5.
@@wtlf1026 I had this same problem on a 95 Continental. They have the cobra v8 engine. The spring was $6 from Ford. I used a rope to get it in (holds the valve up).
I have the same damn problem and can't figure it out!!
Mine runs worse than that I changed plugs ,wires,coil injectors,fuel pump,fuel filter,and I'm ready to give up
I’ve got an 87 ford ranger 2.3 runs great at times it seems when it warms up it’s bogging down
Good video, thanks for sharing these tips with us.
I hope you get the problem fixed.
???? He got the problem fixed
Where did you get a gasket from
I want a 1997 Toyota Tacoma for my first truck. It just brings me good vibes and it's so reliable and it looks like a fun, reliable, cheap, and comfortable truck to have! Love the looks to it too. But I'm only 12. Long ways to go...
Try changing your ICM
Cam position sensor on back of motor!
Would your truck shake or vibrate by any chance when you had this problem?
Yep, it shook pretty violently when it was misfiring.
try higher octane gas and fill up your tires. helps it drive smoother.
My issue is the exhaust valves , put a piece of paper at the tailpipe if it tries to suck it in ???
Thank you so much having the same problems
Glad you got it fixed! Great video!!
Thank you!
my truck 93 Ford ranger bogs down idles ruff there is a flashing white light at the end of my spark plug wire's what could that be and there is black carbon at the tip of my tale pipe
Barney Warwick yes it is I hope you got it fix
Did you replace the spark plugs??
It’s likely that
The Part is A " Master Flow Sensor --??
Just Want to Double Check --
"I Need One...
mass air flow sensor***
i have a 2000 ranger 3.0 and it started running very rough on my way home. i think it may be my fuel filter is clogged but unsure. pulled all the spark plug wires and tightened the sparks didnt fix it. some loss in acceleration check engine light is on but dont have an OBD tool. Any ideas of what could help? without spending money first if possible
Test the ignition
@@mottosierra1372 lol little late on that but appreciate the comment. It dropped a valve
You can spray the AF sensor down with brake cleaner also and save $90.
Don't use brake cleaner to clean maf. Sensor.
@@robertdavis3433 why? If you don't mind me asking.
@@kelvinholland9380 Hello Kevin, you must not use brake cleaner to clean the MAF sensor because brake cleaner leaves a residue behind. you must choose a product that is made to clean the sensor and it will leave no residue . Sensor cleaners cost about $8 a can.
@@kelvinholland9380 use MAF sensor cleaner I hear electrical contact cleaner is the same but you buy them right next to eachother so
Maybe a 02 sensor
Hope that was an O'Reilly's Auto Parts got that from used to work for them they have good part but yes you can buy them and their crap
What, you had reason to put a MAF sensor on it?
Age, dirt, guess?
But it was a defective new part somehow.
We didn't see you clear the PCM.
You somehow determined your new part was bad and received a warranted new new part.
You did know you had no spark from one post of the DIS coil pack.
You did put that coil pack on, new.
You , what, checked for spark on them all and they were now good.
But it ran so bad you had to keep pulling over.
You decided 2-1=1 and re-replaced the MAF.
We didn't see any procedures.
Now it's teats.
Alright.
You know, this is the kind of story you hear usually blamed on the mechanic.
The diagnostic tests and experienced guess comes out close to the same, except he runs tests and shows us who what where when why and how.
A bad new part can get handed out to him too.
He cleans the throttle body, does maintenance and inspections, puts good brand plugs and wires on if applicable.
He properly gaps all the plugs.
I am supposing you did all that.
All's well that ends well.
and that's why i stop buying electronic parts from Advance Auto Parts ..... this place has cause has caused me unbearable headaches
You got un hook battery to reset after put that on .
Did you try to test the injectors with ForScan?
The check engine light is on; plug an OBD II scanner into the Onboard Diagnostics port and read the codes it's throwing, then look up the codes.
Never mind
bad fuel injectors
It may be the clutch!
What kinda symptoms did you have? Any power lose when accelerating?
I have 01 ranger 4.0 and I got the cyl 4 misfire code when scanned and it's runs very rough barely any power sounds like it's running off only 5 cyl but I replaced plugs,wires,coil pack, egr valve pressure mod, and egr vaccum modulator but still is doing same. When it started dling this it would only do it every once in a while but 90 percent of time it ran great. But it kept getting worse and worse I've checked all vacuum lines im worried its something like messed up valve or something but I've ran out of ideas of what it could be. I am going crazy if anybody can help I would so greatly appriciate it
I hear ya.. mine idles fine, but when I put in gear, it starts skippin and missfirez... iv changed fuel filter, plugs, transmission filtersndfluid, idle sensor..I'm soo pissed at this s.o.a.b. cause it aggravates me when my trouble shootin...misses..
If you find out before myself, plez let us know
I replaced coil pack did no f -ing good
Try Sarah N Tuned. I think that she figured it out. Modernize the computer.
What year is it ?
Could it not have been cleaned?
it’s the fuel injector
PLUG IT IN
I have a 2002 ford ranger 3.0l the ranger r good trucks
I'm watching video after video. Going to my old work to get the compassion tester. I don't care..I will swap it. I had a 2000 s10 I hated it...I put 7k$ in it and the 2nd blew at 43k miles. That was my grandpa's work truck. The ranger we had did 100k miles after we sold it. The timing alone the ranger wins.
Try changing your ICM
Bro your motor is knocking its fucked you have a bent cam shaft its going to blow up
Having a similar issue with my 03 3.0l. Cylinder 5 misfire and rough idle. Runs fine otherwise. Pretty sure it's a valve issue as what I've researched online these trucks are prone to have valve problems after 100k miles and sooner if you run it rough. Just gonna put reman heads in it and go from there. Careful not to dump too much money into these shitboxes they arent worth much as it is.
I’m wearing a mask in case you got the CV. I don’t want to catch it through the screen.
what a strange thing to comment
@@CoolStuffInWeirdCars It’s sarcasm related to the current covid hysteria.
Can you say coil pack?
THIS is the perfect example of what NOT to do to fix your vehicle.First BE mechanically inclined and know that your first tool is a manual or the net to diagnose the problem. This poor sap was doomed before he began.By not checkin the problem online,he never knew that the truck has the OBDII system that will TELL him what the problem is,go online to label it and suggest a fix donated by years and years of experienced mechanics dealing with it. DON"t be this poor sap. I'm one of the mechanics and even with my labor could have saved him alot of money. NEVER work on a vehicle when you are sick either,as meds or symptoms will mess with your focus.Hopefully this guy learned and took just one trip through his wallet to the school of hard knocks.......
Plugged cats
Its your I.C.M 100%
what is the fix?
@@bermchasin after chasing my icm with junk yard icm. Truck would run great for awhile and then slowly go back to same problem. Got the bright idea to buy a brand new icm from Ford and my truck would not even start with the new icm so to the junk yard I went. After this last icm acted up I figured something is causing them to burn up. Checked coil packs and always ohm'd good. I decided to change both packs anyways thinking that once they heated up under load is when they could cause the icm problem. Since I've changed both coil packs and put another junk yard icm in, I haven't had a problem, fingers crossed. I also thought maybe my voltage regulator could have been feeding too much juice to the icm but ran several tests and altenator puts out correct voltage thruout heavy load and no load. So as of right now, coil packs seem to have fixed
@@lindseyburgett3721 my trucks a 93 2.3 I'm certain mine is the icm so I'm replacing mine tomorrow was that what fixed your problem
@@codywoods3389 i have replaced it several times with junk yard icms. Fixed every time for several months until it would act up again. Figured I'd buy a new one from Ford for 240 bucks. That one wouldn't even start the truck so back to the junk yard i went. I changed both coil packs after both tested good along with anothe junk yard icm. So far no problems. If you have the extra cash get new cool packs. They may test good but under load and warned up they may be frying the icm imo
@@lindseyburgett3721 I replaced the icm and it definitely was the problem did the coils plugs wires my plugs in wires were changed less than 6 months ago that wasn't the problem but at least it's all new again thank you for advice mine truck was running on cylinders 1 and 4 on both coils packs they were not sparkling Even on brand new coil pack ran just as shitty as the truck in the video now it's strong again and no back fires when down shifting I'm at 317k on it and it's stronger than when I bought it at 220k hill by my house I struggled to hold 55 today I went up it at 65 with ease
Rangers SUCK