Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge and skill. I am in the process of building some built-in bunk beds and wanted to make a header in the Craftsman style to dress it up. I followed your instructions and built one today. It took me a while to figure out what the style was called but once I did it was your video that helped me get it done.
There's a tape called old standby, It has a pencil sharpener on it and is 16 foot. Beats that bulky 25 footer you have there. Really good tape had the same one for two years
I really appreciate you posting these videos - I have a number of doors that I have to frame. Gotta a question for you though - for the trim molding that frames the doors - how did you break the edge of the board? Was this done with sand paper or on a router?
I noticed in part one you said you paint the trim first but after you install it and fill the nail holes how do you come back and finish it without taping everything off anyway
Is there any particular reason, in your opinion, to not using MDF for trim pieces? It's dirt cheap compared to solid wood and is typically more stable.
Mark F. Thanks for watching, Mark. I've never really worked with MDF. I'd say it's pretty good for this application. I guess I would worry about whether or not you can mill the round overs on MDF? I really don't know.
They actually round over really well. I put a bull nose on some 1/2 MDF. Exposes some fibers but it sands really easily. I did two windows and used less than 1/4 of a sheet....so about $8 or $4 per window.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge and skill. I am in the process of building some built-in bunk beds and wanted to make a header in the Craftsman style to dress it up. I followed your instructions and built one today. It took me a while to figure out what the style was called but once I did it was your video that helped me get it done.
Love this trim! It's what I am putting in my house and painting it white as well. 2 thumbs up!
Thank you for taking the time to make the video series.... please keeping coming 👌🏻
im glad u show how u made the cap and header . looks great , now i shall make my own .. thanks for saving me some cash
+African Cichlids Yes!
Thanks for these videos!
Can you mention what angles are being used to do the small cove pieces that go on top?
There's a tape called old standby, It has a pencil sharpener on it and is 16 foot. Beats that bulky 25 footer you have there. Really good tape had the same one for two years
Thank you another great video. Would you mind telling me the manufacturer & model of door. TY.
Why do you assemble all the parts of the header before putting it up on the wall rather than putting each piece directly onto the wall one at a time?
thanks for video its nice to see like u share his experiance with others
+M Kh Thanks for watching. I really appreciate it!
What is the rule of thumb for the size of the header over an exterior door vs interior door vs window. (Especially when on the same wall?)
I really appreciate you posting these videos - I have a number of doors that I have to frame. Gotta a question for you though - for the trim molding that frames the doors - how did you break the edge of the board? Was this done with sand paper or on a router?
Are the wood dimensions different on sliding glass doors or larger openings ? Thanks
Lordy lordy get on with it we are all getting old here !
I am building my door trims like yours. what size cove molding are you using? Is the top cap and bottom bead the same thickness?
Thanks so much for providing this! What router do you recommend?
What width boards and what size cove
What is the miter angle?🙏
What is the thickness of the cap?
I noticed in part one you said you paint the trim first but after you install it and fill the nail holes how do you come back and finish it without taping everything off anyway
Is there any particular reason, in your opinion, to not using MDF for trim pieces? It's dirt cheap compared to solid wood and is typically more stable.
Mark F. Thanks for watching, Mark. I've never really worked with MDF. I'd say it's pretty good for this application. I guess I would worry about whether or not you can mill the round overs on MDF? I really don't know.
They actually round over really well. I put a bull nose on some 1/2 MDF. Exposes some fibers but it sands really easily. I did two windows and used less than 1/4 of a sheet....so about $8 or $4 per window.
Mark F. It is cheaper but holy hell does it make a mess, especially if you router your own profiles for the moulding.
Yeah it's dusty but I can trim out a 36X48 window for about $4 in worth of sheet stock. I guess it's a trade off.
Hi what kind of wood was used to make the frame
Did you cut the board down from 3/4" to 1/2" thickness? Thank You