ANYCUBIC KOBRA GO Proximity sensor adjustment, Bed Level, and Z-offset adjustments!!!
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- This video is for anyone having problems with bed leveling, and z-offset on the ANYCUBIC KOBRA GO.
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I have no idea as to why my nozzle started to dive into my print bed, but your video, and step by step assistance has me printing once again after a couple hours of downtime. New nozzle installed, new Z Offset created, and this was the first time I had to adjust my proximity sensor. That stopped my printhead from diving into my bed!
I thought the printer was toast. Thanks for sharing your time with us!
Thank you for this vid! I recently replaced a heating element on my Kobra Neo and auto-level kept failing by gently hitting the bed. Adjusting the proximity sensor did the trick. If you have a Kobra Neo the process is the same. Just remove the outer blue case on the head and you will see the adjustment screw on the proximity sensor.
Just changed my nozzle and now my sensor is out by milli meters, this is really helpful, didn't know you could use the wrench in the kit to reset the sensor height. Genius!!!
Had the same issue was so confused till I found this video.
Wow…best newbie helper..followed your direction..and set it all up and was my first and best successful print. I looked so many video that focus on z off set and not the sensor. Thank you so much.😊
You are the best! Thank you very much, especially for the tip about the Z-axis probe adjustment. Note, if you have a KOBRA NEO, the adjustment for the z-axis probe is from the top of the head above the probe, not from the side as shown in the video for the Go.
Oh my gosh! Thank you so much! This was a great help. Got my 3D printer working now❤
Go figure. Anycubic sent me to your video as their tech couldn’t work out how to sort my Go, and so far so good - would I recommend one these probably not, if I had my time over re: purchase I’d have bought a bigger one like the Kobra Plus and not the Go.
Thanks for dumbing it down for us hobbyist’s - you’re a legend.
Wow, I can't believe they sent you to my video! I am a hobbyist myself and hearing that it's easy to follow is great. Glad to have helped in anyway 👍
@@acesarts1 You were a great help - At least I can use the printer now and yes the prints are great, instead of my Mega Plus - which I might add, just keeps on working so I'll never get shot of it but thanks to you I can build more stuff with the Kobra.
Thanks again. 👍👍
Thx for the video! After 5 months of troubleshooting your tip about the Z-axis not zeroing after auto-levelling made the difference!
Holy crap man, thank you for this video. I’m brand new to printing and was so frustrated with the settings. This will definitely set me on the right track. Thank you so much for making it so easy to follow along.
Thanks for rendering my 3D printer useful. Anycubic's own video didn't explain the main parts to make it function.
I'm now printing the owl....
Thanks for this video, one of the clearest I have seen for doing this.
Funny, I'm thinking of re-doing it, to make it a little better lol. Thank you though, as I don't make videos like this, ever.
@@acesarts1would help me a lot, for some reason my kobra neo isn’t leveling, hopefully this fixes it but it only gets abt half way thru leveling when it says failed
This is a superbly useful how to. Many thanks.
Yass this fixed it for me, thanks so much!
The ABL sux out of the box with my Kobra Go. You'll also notice drift in the mesh measurements, I've done 5 in a row and each time the distances increased, no stability. I found the solution, my bed is nearly perfect, which wasn't my expectation but this is what happened. TLDR; Manually level the bed, then run auto bed level.
I ditched the factory bed standoff spacers and replaced with yellow springs, then I manually leveled the bed, went through 3 iterations writing down the measurements, and with M4x0.7 screws, 1 rotation of the screw = 0.7mm of movement, or round it to for every 0.100 mm you need to change, turn the screw 50°. By writing down the measurements, I can turn each screw in or out, trying to get all corners to match the center, if you can't match the center then match each corner.
Seems like it fixed for me , thanks👍
no matter how well my 1st layer is my nozzle ends up dragging across my print with zhop on. i believe this is what is causing my layering issues. i have re-leveled and reset the sensor and this thing wont work correct. it worked great the 1st few prints and has now gone to crap. my other 3 printers i havent had this issue.
ty for the video great help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also, just disable steppers and move the head to the center of the plate manually. Much faster.
You just saved me hours
Muchas gracias. Lo necesitaba.
Just bought a return unit off eBay real cheap and I think it was returned because the abl was too high and crashing the nozzle to the bed. I went to adjust the z height and Anycubic does not make it clear how you're supposed to accomplish this. This video makes it a little less muddy. I'll probably end up putting klipper on it so I know how to set it correctly. Lol
Thank You !!! I was about ready to sell mine. Question- Once this is done does it need to be repeated or is it set (for the most part) for every print?
It doesn't matter if it is level. It matters if it is trammed - ie, the carriage parallel to the bed.
Mine does not print but everything is correct with the settings . The melted filament pellets . Why ?
You don't have to slowly move the motors. They are made to go fast..have you watched how fast they accelerate during printing?
Thanks for sharing
So when autoleveling the nozzle should not be almost touching the build plate? Because its hovering a few mm above it before it retracts and moves to another spot to measure
Thanks🙏
I’m new to this stuff and I’m a bit confused, when looking for that resistance with the paper and the nozzle, it felt like my nozzle wasn’t moving at all because I felt nothing although I had it changed the z offset by millimeters
perfekt vid! Thx!!!
...I don't understand why 1/3 of the video is talking about "leveling the machine" literally does not matter. It would be a better use of time to get a Square and make sure the Z Rail is 90 degrees perp to the gantry and 90 degrees perp to the bed... if the machine were 180 degrees off plane (i.e. on its side and everything remained true as above) the only impact would be gravity on the material. things can be level and not square...
ty for the video
What can I use if I don’t have that wrench?
Thanks for the video. Wondering if you know if there is way to configure the LCD to display remaining print time ?
Not really sure on that. From my own experience, I've seen others change out their firmware on the printer for that. As the print times are estimated times anyway, the same will still be true for "remaining print time". Say the print time is 5hr, but it actually took 5.5hrs or 6....
@@acesarts1 Thanks again. just figured out in cura, there is option to add post processing scripts and select Display Progress on LCD, and check Time Remaining. I can now see the estimated remaining time on the LCD display :) Very happy with the printer so far
See here :) ruclips.net/user/shortspwHn2tJDIs8?feature=share
i dont know HOW this should work, if u pull down the sensor this deep, the nozzle has a clear distance to the bed after leveling againcause the sensor is TO DEEP.
its not a bl or cr touch...
Can anyone tell me the thickness of that wrench me be is missing
That would be my question as well. Looks like about 2mm?
I'm sorry, I have to ask you 2 questions: Should the sheet pass with little resistance or with a lot of resistance? once set, must the orange sensor rest on the key or must there be a space? Thank you
For the sheet of paper you want to just feel the resistance from the nozzle. This is also only an approximation and you'll need to fine tune the z-offset once you begin a print.
The orange proximity sensor should be touching the tool (either the wrench or provided proximity adjustment tool.)
Can someone tell me how thick the wrench is? I lost mine😅
my kobra go bed doesnt move up or down i do not know why
Does this work on the neo to
Personally I don't. Only have the Kobra Go.
For some reason it won't save the settings I put in.
Also can't update the firmware.
My issue is that no matter what Z offset level my printer is on, when I do the auto bed leveling the hot end smashes into the build plate then im given an Leveling faild message. I have no idea what to do about that.
You have to move that sensor to prevent it from hitting the build plate. They have proximity sensors, and if you've adjusted it and still have an issue, could be a bad sensor.
Will this work for my Kobra Neo?
Hey at 9:50 how come your Z Offset is -00.890mm but at the end Z offset -1.40?
What is going on, aren't they supposed to match?
When you are doing the initial set up of the proxy sensor, the offset will be wrong after the adjustment. So after an ABL, the offset is set higher then needed as a protective feature. So to adjust for the offset you need to do that after the ABL. That's why there is a difference
@@acesarts1 I did it correctly and my print is perfect now with the off-set! I always thought my print was good but always warp, ever since I did around 10 prints and no more warping. Glad I found the vid.
My extruder keeps running into the plate when I try to zero the offset.
Then the build plate is up to high, and you'll need to set your z-offset lower. Or double check the proximity sensor distance. If the proxy sensor is set to high, it won't tell the printer to stop the gantry from pushing the hot end into the build plate
6:00
What profile do you use
The Ender 3 profile then modified it from there. Both Cura and Prusa should have the Kobra Go in the updated versions
When I have set that, with the paper then auto. Start leveling?
Once you set the proximity sensor, yes. Re-do the auto level. When that's finished, follow the same steps to move the X, and Y to 110.0mm, Z to 0mm. Then back to the main screen, Z-offset and use the paper again to get the proper Z-offset settings.
@@acesarts1 Ok thanks, if I understood that correctly. First step with the paper and z-offset, as well as the sensor, then auto leveling and then repeating the first step again to get the right z-offset?
I have an issue with the bed itself is not leveled correctly. It's like the top and the left sides are lower than the down and right sides. How can i level that? I tried the screws underneath but it only makes the bed wobbley. It drives me nuts!
@saad alareqi that essentric nut you mentioned under the bed, is what is used to level the bed. Just like the X axis gantry, essentric nut, you want that to be just snug enough not to wobble, but not to tight that the D wheels don't move.
@Ace's Arts yes I did that but still the bed wouldn't get even in the four corners. 2 corners are higher than the others which makes the nozzle to have a gap in 2 corners. How can I make all 4 corners even?
Getting the damn roll bar to sit properly is doing my head 2 days messing with it and just can get it to move up smoothly just keeps sounding like it's grinding usually gets to half way into the lvl and starts having issues don't get wtf is going on.
May I ask what it is you refer to as the "roll bar"? The set up process can be a bit of a headache, even for people that have more then basic mechanical skills lol. All the eccentric nuts, are SUPER touchy. When tightening of loosening them, the slightest movements effect them A LOT. It's important to play around with them and understand how sensitive they are.
@@acesarts1 yea my bad I mean the eccentric nuts the 2 on the sides I've been messing with all week and doest seem to matter what I do or how I attempt to get them moving smoothly. All I'm getting is a grinding noise. I'm assuming due to the stepper not being able to move it up and down smoothly.
Moves fine up and down when I'm manually telling it to move but as soon as the lvling process starts the noise is there.
my lcd display is just white
maybe your power supply is set to 230 instead if 115, i had that happen because the power was too high