Would love to see a video on how you made that cradle. I’ve often thought something like that was needed for bottle jacks, but this is the first I’ve seen it used.
Just a piece of square tubing with a cut out, sandwiched between a couple plates. He did a nice job. You can take a 6" piece of PT 4x4 and cut the notch, then drill a hole about an inch deep in the bottom. Not as fancy but serves the same purpose.
@@Bwanar1 Saw another video where they used round stock tubing and welded it to the square tubing with that radius cut out. Round tubing fit right over the jack. That may work too. Thx
awesome video!! also wanted to add always keep the tip of the grease gun clean and I always pump 1 or 2 pumps unconnected into a rag on first use if it's been sitting. That way u know clean grease is always going in bearings.
I use the Anderson levelers as well. I switched to lynx levers for under the stabilizer jack pads. They have a wheel chock that snaps in. A 2 pack of levelers will get you high enough to preform maintenance or change a tire. The video is on my RUclips page. Heck it out and let me know what you think.
I don’t see the need for Anderson leveling system to change or grease the bearings if your using a bottle jack just jack up the axle and do what you need to do ?
I use the andersen leveling system for leveling the trailer. So, I always have them with me and it's super easy to ride up on them. I'd rather use the jack minimally.
There is a thing called trailer aid that is one piece that you can pull up on with one wheel and it lifts the other wheel off the ground for doing this and it's much safer looking than what you did.
Grease gun suggestion..........Either replace the flexible hose with a rigid pipe so that you can operate the pump with two hands while holding pressure against the zerk or if you prefer to keep the flexible hose use a grease gun with a pistol grip pump that can be operated with one hand. A flexible hose used in conjuction with a long handled pump doesn't work well.
Folks, NEVER do this. Remove the bearings and repack them. Too many people simply squirt more grease, thinking it's good to go, when in fact putting more grease in often blows out the rear seal and now they have grease all over their brakes. This is just dangerous.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I never said that this is a method to use instead of repacking bearings. There have been numerous issues with axle manufacturers not using enough grease which have caused failures. But don't take my word for it. Folks can Google "recall insufficient bearing grease" and go through the list of thousands of units lacking enough grease. This was another recent issue for Lippert trailer axles as well (which are the axles I have). I'm in agreement with you that the bearings should absolutely be repacked at the manufacturers recommended service interval.
@@rvcampermodsupgrades3288 if you are fearful not enough grease is in the bearings, pull the hubs and repack them. You have no way of knowing if there is enough grease, or if they were properly greased. Blindly adding more grease is both dangerous, and reckless.
I agree, when I repacked mine a couple of months ago someone had dropped one of the bearings and bent the cage and if I had just pumped grease into it like this I would have never known that I had a damaged bearing cage.
I learned this the hard way. A couple times a season I would pump a little grease in each zerk. Eventually I had no trailer brakes. Turned out all rear seals leaked grease all over the drums, soaking the brake shoes. Only way to fix it was all new brakes. I was told to never add grease using the zerks . Just repack your wheel bearings with new seals every year or two depending on mileage.
A Bottle Jack Axle adapter is INDEED a great product to carry with you. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for chiming in! I didn't know you existed. Nice work on getting one to market!
Would love to see a video on how you made that cradle. I’ve often thought something like that was needed for bottle jacks, but this is the first I’ve seen it used.
Just a piece of square tubing with a cut out, sandwiched between a couple plates. He did a nice job. You can take a 6" piece of PT 4x4 and cut the notch, then drill a hole about an inch deep in the bottom. Not as fancy but serves the same purpose.
@@Bwanar1 Saw another video where they used round stock tubing and welded it to the square tubing with that radius cut out. Round tubing fit right over the jack. That may work too. Thx
@@jimsjacob Yep...I just don't have access to a welder at the moment. Lots of wood working tools though. ;-)
awesome video!! also wanted to add always keep the tip of the grease gun clean and I always pump 1 or 2 pumps unconnected into a rag on first use if it's been sitting. That way u know clean grease is always going in bearings.
Great tips!
I use the Anderson levelers as well. I switched to lynx levers for under the stabilizer jack pads. They have a wheel chock that snaps in. A 2 pack of levelers will get you high enough to preform maintenance or change a tire. The video is on my RUclips page. Heck it out and let me know what you think.
Where can I purchase this adapter?
Looks like the commenter below sells a similar version for a fair price. That'll be your best bet at this point.
@@rvcampermodsupgrades3288
Anderson makes a thicker wedge for lifting tires...
Really helpful thanks! Yes interested in the extra part.
Looks like the commenter above had already been producing the same type of setup called the "Bottle Jack Buddy".
I don’t see the need for Anderson leveling system to change or grease the bearings if your using a bottle jack just jack up the axle and do what you need to do ?
I use the andersen leveling system for leveling the trailer. So, I always have them with me and it's super easy to ride up on them. I'd rather use the jack minimally.
I believe the overall theme here, is to make a simple job more complicated. He succeeded in that effort.
Agreed, putting the jack under the axle requires exactly the same amount of effort or lift with or without those levelers.
Anderson levelers don’t work on 17.5 inch wheels. They don’t lift the tire enough.
Exactly. That's why I made the video. Watch it and see the solution that works for me.
Always lift the trailer by the frame.
There is a thing called trailer aid that is one piece that you can pull up on with one wheel and it lifts the other wheel off the ground for doing this and it's much safer looking than what you did.
Lots of negative reviews on those and a lot bulkier. But if that works for you, great!
Grease gun suggestion..........Either replace the flexible hose with a rigid pipe so that you can operate the pump with two hands while holding pressure against the zerk or if you prefer to keep the flexible hose use a grease gun with a pistol grip pump that can be operated with one hand. A flexible hose used in conjuction with a long handled pump doesn't work well.
Thanks! I got the Lock n Lube fitting and it makes the process much easier.
Lock n Lube fitting
That's it! Thanks! Just ordered one.
Folks, NEVER do this. Remove the bearings and repack them. Too many people simply squirt more grease, thinking it's good to go, when in fact putting more grease in often blows out the rear seal and now they have grease all over their brakes. This is just dangerous.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I never said that this is a method to use instead of repacking bearings. There have been numerous issues with axle manufacturers not using enough grease which have caused failures. But don't take my word for it. Folks can Google "recall insufficient bearing grease" and go through the list of thousands of units lacking enough grease. This was another recent issue for Lippert trailer axles as well (which are the axles I have).
I'm in agreement with you that the bearings should absolutely be repacked at the manufacturers recommended service interval.
@@rvcampermodsupgrades3288 if you are fearful not enough grease is in the bearings, pull the hubs and repack them. You have no way of knowing if there is enough grease, or if they were properly greased. Blindly adding more grease is both dangerous, and reckless.
I agree, when I repacked mine a couple of months ago someone had dropped one of the bearings and bent the cage and if I had just pumped grease into it like this I would have never known that I had a damaged bearing cage.
If you use the grease fitting improperly, you’ll increase your chances of blowing out the rear seal. Use it properly then you don’t.
I learned this the hard way. A couple times a season I would pump a little grease in each zerk. Eventually I had no trailer brakes. Turned out all rear seals leaked grease all over the drums, soaking the brake shoes. Only way to fix it was all new brakes. I was told to never add grease using the zerks . Just repack your wheel bearings with new seals every year or two depending on mileage.
You should hire a reputable technician, you gave out enough information to get some one in trouble, or dead
You should put your first video together to demonstrate what you said.