Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Magazine Gear Editor, shows how to belay a toprope climb.
Thanks to our partners: Wild Country Red Chili, Vertical Girl, and New England Ropes.
As a climbing gym manager, I can't believe how long it took me to find a belay technique video that is actually correct and that I would let someone watch in order to learn to belay! Thank you so much for this!
Much better to pull out to the right, and down, with the brake hand, then to pull up. The closer to vertical the brake end gets, the more leverage you lose. If the climber falls midway through this process it's safer to already be in a position where you have leverage than it is to quickly go through the arms full range of motion to go from the up position back to all the way down.
+Chris Williams Perhaps what you are trying to say is after "pulling the slack through with the break hand" the belayer must pin the rope down to the knee (and slightly outwards) as soon as possible.
+Chris Williams
Yeah, this. The most important thing, after not letting go, is to keep the brake end of the rope below the belay as much as physically possible.
I know right, all the other videos i've seen make me cringe. probably going to get people hurt
How do you anchor or mount your rope to the rock? That's my question.
I appreciate it.i will
Why is she using the left hole in the tube device to belay with the rope on the right?
Thanks very much for this lesson, I appreciate the effort.
Shouldn't the rope be put through the other opening in the ATC since she is right hand dominant and therefore her right hand is the break hand.
The other opening is for using a doubled rope when you need to retrieve it later. The brake side goes toward a toothed groove and the load side is smoother which is how she set it up. You can use either opening interchangeably receipt for some lock off technique’s.
Wear a helmet please.
3:36 for the non-climber is really something to watch... The hand motion and the fact that she said "jerk"... Must be the guy in me.
I'm glad I'm not the only one haha
Very good video for beginner like me, learnt a lot. One question, should we use gloves when holding the rope ?
I don't think. I could take instructions from a beautiful woman like her ,I would be thinking of how I could ask her out ,
I don’t understand what they tie the rope to at the top. How do you know when you get there that you’ll have something with a could grip to tie the rope to?
Hey, if you're still interested I'd love to answer this for you in depth. But essentially, it depends on the climb. It's the climber's responsibility to understand the descent or walk-off scenario as much as they understand the route they are climbing. Your question is a mature one, but requires a decent amount of climbing knowledge to answer properly. Hit me up if you read this and want to have a chat!
Belay doesn’t rhyme with filet
jump to 2 :10
2:10
Learned motor behavior through practiced repetitive motion is synonymous with muscle memory.
Top Rope? Why am I thinking this is a 'bottom rope' technique?
?
Doesn't she have the device configured for left hand use whilst using it right handed?
I know this is old but YES, she does!
I have watched and tried this method many times. It uses too much energy; always bending over a bit so that the "pull" hand can reach under the belay hand. Why can this technique not be modified so that the "pull" hand settles above the brake hand, 3" below the belay device? This hand can hold the rope rigidly in the lock off position and allow the brake hand to slide back up, ready for another cycle.There would be no bending over, much less energy expended and would still provide all the benefits of the PBUS technique.
Jaime Derrick -- I agree that you shouldn't bend your body forward.
Does it matter which rope slot you put the bight through? Does it depend on handedness?
in my opinion, yes.
A late reply but whichever hand is your strong hand should be the side that your rope goes through the belay plate.
thanks
3:35 :D
great!
Anyone else like her hand motion at 4:09?
lol fucking cabbage
lol
Good vid finally found good instruction and technique :)
How to belay, step 1: Use a belay device. step 2: Go belay.
Using the belay loop with an ATC actually adds a 90 degree twist to your belay side of the rope (ie it ends up pointing directly down opossed to your right [or left if you're a leftie]). A good tip: Put your 'biner through your tie-in loops. It will make your ATC feed correctly to the left or right.
Err, no, that cross-loads the biner. Bad idea. See:
outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1384/what-does-it-mean-to-cross-load-a-carabiner
***** I've had a lot of discussions about this and what I gather is hooking a carabiner into both hard tie-in points when belaying from the ground is OK and it's moot point. Here's what happens when you catch your lead climber (from the ground). The rope goes tight and your carabiner has an upward pull. This upward pull will pull the bottom loop up and the impact load will be taken initially by the bottom loop against the carabiner. After that the second 'upper' loop will come into contact with the first 'bottom' loop and more load energy will be dissipated. The carabiner will only see one point of force. So for belaying upwards it is safe. HOWEVER, if you are rappelling and you have a carabiner through both hard tie in points, that is a very different situation. If you lay horizontally the hard tie in points will spread out and you will indeed have a tri-axle loaded system which is a big no-no. So, with that said, I believe the manufacturers are covering their bases by saying 'never' when it really is application specific. So they are saying 'never' to ensure that you don't accidentally use it in the wrong mode. I am not an Instructor so please take this for what it is worth and how much you paid for the info!! I would love to see BD and Petzl do tests on this in a similar way that DMM did the dynema/spectra sling tests.
billy bob Correct. IMO a twisting moment is worse as it can cause the gate to release and pop open. This drastically reduces the carabiner's strength as the load is purely along one axis and not distributed throughout the 'biner. However the 'twisting moment' argument may be moot too since most if not all belayers use a locking carabiner which stops the gate from coming away from the carabiner's gate contact point.
this is slingshot top roping, I wanted an actual top rope with anchor instructional video