If you keep making videos, I will keep watching them. This feels like the best I have found on anchors and lowering/rappelling. It's serious, efficient, does not assume knowledge, and covers the different scenarios to be aware of. It's perfect for me to practice and then come back and reference over and over.
A nice tip when setting up your rappel: if you set up your third hand first and pull rope up through it, it will actually hold the rope for you and make it much easier to feed the strands through your rappel device. Also, if you were to get distracted for whatever reason and not set up your device correctly before you remove your PAS, your third hand will hold you enough to prevent a catastrophic fall when you go to lean back since you set it up first. Great video!
I did my first single pitch multi pitch simulation today. I’d managed it before but it was messy and my belayer hated the whole experience. I had a much better understanding of rope and anchor management after failing once, watching this, then trying it on my own.
In a few videos, when clipping your pas in before cleaning the anchor, why do you clip into the master point on the anchor, rather than clipping your pas directly to the bolt/ring? Would the latter not allow you to stay clipped into pas even after cleaning the anchor? Really appreciate these videos. They are the best on RUclips when it comes to these subjects.
Around 7:15 if you’re at the top of a climb and hanging, not standing on solid ground, what is providing tension to hold you? It looks like you just have your third hand. It also looks like you took your carabiner connected to your petzl connect adjust off the master point and have it clipped to your gear loop for a few seconds in the video. I think you’d have to un-weight your petzl connect adjust in order to make a clove hitch for the extended rappel. Might want to mention that would only be possible by sliding up the third hand and having it provide tension during that step. I prefer the dual connect adjust for this reason
You would definitely have to unweight to clove in your rap device. You should have the PAS connected as shown in the video, should not be weighting a third hand on its own. If you needed something to help you unweight, I’d make a clove with the climbing rope (just do it with both strands) on my belay loop with a carabiner. That said, I’ve never had an issue unweighting at the start of a rappel to clove as usually these are good stances.
Hi Jason, can you do a how to on abseil plates? I'm specifically looking to use small ropes for skimo (like the Grivel Scream, Ovo or gigi could be larger rope alternatives).
Great video as well as your others. The only thing missing is that you don't make a safety knot at the other end of the rope that you lower down. For both types, only at the first end
Always great content! Keep it coming. Something I haven’t seen in your videos is when lead climbers need to clean a single pitch sport route and there are just rap rings at the top, they’re not linked and you just have a PAS and QuickDraws (which is very common). Option 2 is you don’t have a PAS (also common for sport climbers).
Be careful with friction hitches as life supporting, as with the grigri, it is still capable of failure. I’ve seen the autoblock not bite in some tests I’ve done at home and it was enough to spook me and make me understand why arborists spend so much $$$ on mechanical prusiks.
I've never liked autoblocks, they are inherently messy and hard to tell if done right. A lot of people make them quickly and they look even worse. A prusik may take an extra minute to make but is easy to check because of its characteristic winding, bi-directional and bomber.
If you keep making videos, I will keep watching them. This feels like the best I have found on anchors and lowering/rappelling. It's serious, efficient, does not assume knowledge, and covers the different scenarios to be aware of. It's perfect for me to practice and then come back and reference over and over.
I have got to agree with some of the other commenters. Your content is probably some of the best out there. I'm always learning!
Hey Jason- dude I just want to tell you that I appreciate your videos so much. Just love here for ya brother. Thank you! cheers
Appreciate that, glad you like the content.
A nice tip when setting up your rappel: if you set up your third hand first and pull rope up through it, it will actually hold the rope for you and make it much easier to feed the strands through your rappel device. Also, if you were to get distracted for whatever reason and not set up your device correctly before you remove your PAS, your third hand will hold you enough to prevent a catastrophic fall when you go to lean back since you set it up first. Great video!
So many good reasons for a third hand
Have a friend that saved herself because a 3rd hand, when she overlooked proper feeding of the ATC.
@@ryenschimerman2127 so many accident reports I’ve seen that wouldn’t have happened if a third hand was in place
Great instructional video. Love your teaching style. Thank you.
For sure!!!
Wow, that was very thorough. Awesome work!
Thanks!!!!
I did my first single pitch multi pitch simulation today. I’d managed it before but it was messy and my belayer hated the whole experience. I had a much better understanding of rope and anchor management after failing once, watching this, then trying it on my own.
Ooo yes, new video! Love your channel
Nice, glad you are enjoying the content!
In a few videos, when clipping your pas in before cleaning the anchor, why do you clip into the master point on the anchor, rather than clipping your pas directly to the bolt/ring? Would the latter not allow you to stay clipped into pas even after cleaning the anchor? Really appreciate these videos. They are the best on RUclips when it comes to these subjects.
Around 7:15 if you’re at the top of a climb and hanging, not standing on solid ground, what is providing tension to hold you? It looks like you just have your third hand. It also looks like you took your carabiner connected to your petzl connect adjust off the master point and have it clipped to your gear loop for a few seconds in the video. I think you’d have to un-weight your petzl connect adjust in order to make a clove hitch for the extended rappel. Might want to mention that would only be possible by sliding up the third hand and having it provide tension during that step. I prefer the dual connect adjust for this reason
You would definitely have to unweight to clove in your rap device. You should have the PAS connected as shown in the video, should not be weighting a third hand on its own. If you needed something to help you unweight, I’d make a clove with the climbing rope (just do it with both strands) on my belay loop with a carabiner. That said, I’ve never had an issue unweighting at the start of a rappel to clove as usually these are good stances.
Good advice and clarification!
Clear explanation. Good content
This is very informative thank you
Thanks. ❤
Thanks for this, very helpful series!
At 5:20 wouldn't you want to be backed up by a second point, e.g sling+carabiner clipped to a bolt?
Typically a PAS clipped and locked to a redundant master point is considered acceptable.
How you untie knots of nylon slings, when they where loaded?
great video! thnx!
Hi Jason, can you do a how to on abseil plates? I'm specifically looking to use small ropes for skimo (like the Grivel Scream, Ovo or gigi could be larger rope alternatives).
What’s your take on a beginner doing a 100’ rappel on a 100’ rock face with a figure 8 device? A friend is leading the crew and setting up gear
Great video as well as your others. The only thing missing is that you don't make a safety knot at the other end of the rope that you lower down. For both types, only at the first end
Always great content! Keep it coming. Something I haven’t seen in your videos is when lead climbers need to clean a single pitch sport route and there are just rap rings at the top, they’re not linked and you just have a PAS and QuickDraws (which is very common). Option 2 is you don’t have a PAS (also common for sport climbers).
Yes, next up in this series is anchor cleaning.
How long is the hollow block good for?
Depends on how often you use it. I replace mine every year or so
nice vidoe
Be careful with friction hitches as life supporting, as with the grigri, it is still capable of failure. I’ve seen the autoblock not bite in some tests I’ve done at home and it was enough to spook me and make me understand why arborists spend so much $$$ on mechanical prusiks.
I've never liked autoblocks, they are inherently messy and hard to tell if done right. A lot of people make them quickly and they look even worse. A prusik may take an extra minute to make but is easy to check because of its characteristic winding, bi-directional and bomber.
Ghost Knot
👻👻👻👻
To be honest, you talk a little too much.👍🏻