The hi-nickle SB Chevy block controversy.
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2022
- This addendum to episode 50 part 2 of the PowerTec 10 383 SBC story seemed to be needed to expand on comments regarding the supposed existence of hi-nickle blocks. Here then are DV's thoughts and positions on the matter. Read this entirely at your own risk!
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You don't have to defend yourself sir, the ones that run their mouth are usually really good at what they do....running their mouth. Us guys who know the business are happy to hear your opinion on whatever subject you dig into.....thank you !
thank you sorry for my delay I'm used to trolls . and further, I enjoy being proven wrong, which means I have been taught something I felt like putting my word on it. when I first looked at David the video was the 80s at best and on minis which means nothing to me but I learned more misconceptions fluid vision of most approaches to optimization
David...your book's theories and techniques have led to my engine's and customers winning over 1000 feature wins, 2 track records and 23 track championship's in the past 28 years I've been in business. I Just want to say thank you for all your knowledge and testing that you share with the world.
Mark - you are very welcome.
@@marvingvx1 there is NO SOUND on this video ! Please check it and find out why there is NO SOUND !
Dave totally appreciate your knowledge and willingness to help others to see what you see, I’ve learned a great deal from your books and videos. Thank you very much for the time spent on our passion of everything cars!
It’s not about how smart you are but more about how interested are in something and to want to keep learning about it
Everyone’s brain is the same size, it’s how it is utilised
I grew up in a machine shop and sir you give awesome information I learn lots from you and that Sir is literally the point I mean learning is a lifelong adventure that myself look forward too . Thank you for just being you Sir 😎👍💯🇨🇦❤️
k.g. your comment - I mean learning is a lifelong adventure- That is so right and I could not have put it better.
@@marvingvx1 Thank you Sir that means a lot to me.
Thank you for your information and knowledge I’am 73 years old I’m still learning and researching about SBC engines 👍
Thank you for your work and publishing it so us old(80 yrs) can enjoy what we wished we could have known 60 yrs ago
Mr Vizard indeed you have a more educated audience than the average automotive RUclips channel. Most of us have probably purchased some of your awesome books, or perhaps will after discovering you/your channel. In other words, you've helped educate us sir, and for that I thank you!
I saw you on a TV segment years ago. Never knew he/you was David Vizard. Seen your name in print many times over the years. I’m 63 and raced at Motion Raceway in Assumption, IL.
All this time, I’m a sponge; soaking up camshaft characteristics & cyl head valve angles/runner shaping.
I’ve learned more from you in 10 months than I did from ‘75 to ‘90. You give us enthusiasts many things to think about if we are to build our own, to have it perform AND be reliable. Someone saying you are a ‘know-it-all’ needs to sort himself out b4 he comments. The wealth of info coming free from you is greatly appreciated 👍
I believe that you're about as close to knowing it all as anyone will come, not saying that anyone else can't get that close but the ones who do are a very rare breed such as yourself David
A true gentleman. More respect DV!only fools know it all and you are truly no fool.
Mr. Vizard, There's no need to defend yourself. We know where you're coming from.
Those of us...the vast majority...who sincerely respect you & your immense knowledge are
truly grateful for all the understanding, education & skills you've graciously provided us.
Personally speaking, I am profoundly thankful to have found your informative RUclips Channel.
Best regards,
Ben
Duygu, I was not intentionally trying to defend myself but thanks for saying that you felt I had no need to do so. What I was trying to do in a roundabout way was to thank so many viewers for their very much appreciated support.
DV
I'm grateful to have found it as well I'm just up the road from DV id Love to meet him shake his hand and let him know how grateful I am DV you are the man thank you sir and God bless
Thank u dv I am a novice but learn more and more evertime I listen to your show. Please don't stop we need guys like you to teach.
I never bought into the "High Nickel Block" Kool-Aid. Why would any manufacture make some thing harder to machine in such great quantity as there are 10 blocks or make them last longer.
I could see if they were doing racing blocks for over the counter sales but not production cars and trucks.
Mr. Vizard, I am long time fan and owner of nearly all your books. I used to be a member of the National Corvette Restoration Society, and I attended a tech session where there was a speaker that had retired from Saginaw Casting. He stated those codes, 010 020 and so on, referred to various patterns and cores used to make up a particular block. There was no reference on the blocks as to the particular alloy content, which he claimed varied, and had a 'loose spec'. His words.
Thank you for all you do.
I also believe I read somewhere that on a small block Chevrolet to know if it was High knuckl Nickel block was to look behind the Timing chain cover and it'll have 10 20 which means 20% nickel
That's exactly what I am talking about. Those codes refer to the cores used in making the block. Not the alloy content.
@@v8packard Probably a good chance he knew what he was talking about seeing as though he worked there.
@@r1learner178 He had some interesting pictures and engineering sheets they displayed.
Saginaw didn't cast engine blocks, that would be Defiance foundry...
You are still the best David
Much appreciated 👍
David Vizard, you're always number 1 in my book I remember your tech tips from way back in the 70s and as far as these gm production blocks they had little or no nickel content in them, how ever if a person had to loot to by a high nickel block they could be had from the GM heavy duty parts catalog back then they would set you back 1000 dollars and they were strictly nascar stuff, a standard passenger car block would suffice in any type of automotive race application Bill Jenkins proved that and he also advised to stay away from any new engine block he always said that it's best to look for seasoned blocks out of a truck or passenger car or station wagon and new block from GM were always a pain in the ass to straighten out such as aligned the mains, the cylinder bores, and squaring the decks and bores to the center of the main saddle axis of the block and those blocks were for Bobby and Donnie Alison Nascar race teams Rheer and Morrison done the same thing with NASCAR teams so that nickel production blocks is just a myth every body used seasoned blocks because they had already harden and settled and we're much easier to align than a new block and that was back then but today is a different story with new casting techniques and the additional speroidal and nickel content in all of these after market blocks and the CNC machine work done to reduce the extra cost of excessive machine work like on a passenger car block
Am I the only one getting a black screen for over 7 minutes?
Showing black screen for me aswell
Am a black screen from 5.07 to end at 13.44.some music.
You tube,might have block the rest.
I have seen it done too others.
David is a VERY SMART GUY!
Me too !!! im not sure WTF !!!!
When David signed off and ended the video he left the stream open for awhile, not a biggy, he might trim the video later.
@@luckyPiston Thanks , Im Gettn Old LOL !!!
FYI - I find your channel invaluable. I gain new insights into practical engine dynamics that I am trying to apply. I've haven't built an engine in 50+ years... but with an abundance of free time, I foolishly decided to embark upon trying to modernize a certain old air-cooled engine to go into a car I had restored, and spent quite a few hours learning everything I could before actually fabricating and testing parts... So to you, Mr. Vizard, cheers, and thank you so much - I'll probably be contacting you in the future. You do still consult don't you?
Vic you do not have to explain or apologize for or to anyone. You are the best!!!
If you feel like you need a better block than a 4 bolt 3970010, just buy a Brodix, or Dart block, they are stronger, and can be bored bigger (more HP). The stock older GM blocks will take a lot of abuse for a while when built right, I have seen 4 Bolt 454 blocks run in Grand Prix Supercharged Hydroplanes that make 1400 HP, and run 8000-8400 rpm for 5 minutes straight during a heat. One team won a couple season championships with the same engine.
Or a 880 style vortec roller block lol. Next to no core shift and thicker cylinder walls most of the time
@@brandonbell3089 ,,,,thanks,,,I have an 880 core,,,,was wondering ,, after all the 010 blocks that preceded it , if it had better technology as far as strength......
i've never built an engine. i am in the process of researching/ supplying myself parts to have a builder rebuild my sbc into a est 450hp 6000rpm max 350. i have watched dozens of your videos along with richard holdener's content. i am receiving a free education and i'm extremely grateful for the information you have given me. i haven't ordered a single part yet, but i've been researching for around 6 months. when i do decide i've learned enough, i'm confident i'll have a near perfect combo for my needs. thanks in advance
Thank you David I really enjoy hearing you speak about engines, and thank you for all you've done for the industry and even more for what you've done for the community
Back in the day it was more desirable to use a seasoned block than a new block. The theory was, because of the many heat cycles the block was more stable and the cylinders sealed better.
I'm not a metallurgist but I do understand tempering, grain alignment, and such. While running an engine probably doesn't get to temperatures that would cause a change in the metal structure...it seems like a good idea from my standpoint.
Curiosity and being humble drives the engineer.
While I do not claim to have your experience, I have been building engines for over 40 years, primarily big block Chevy marine engines. I always hand wash my blocks after they come back from the machine shop as I do grind areas both inside and outside the block. What I have seen is that occasionally I will wash a block and instead of it trying to flash rust brown, it will go to a green color, sort of like a tarnished nickel might.
I’m 40 years old. At this point in time the people who’s opinions I have the most respect for, occasionally say “I don’t know”. I was watching a video early of another highly respected engine builder, manufacturer of engine parts, and drag racer, he made a little mistake on a tune up that cost him a little E.T. on his pass. He talked to someone else at the same level and they pointed out what he had wrong. Sure enough it took care of his issue. He left that in the video and said, guys I don’t know everything.
Upper CYL "ridge wear" is a good indicator of low nickel iron. SBC seems to have those from the top ring. Pontiacs rarely have a top CYl ridge wear after high mileage.
Mr.Vizard,
I’ve watched most of your videos, and interestingly, there is a legacy vid of you in England ( I think ) from the 80’s???lecturing on mini engine mods. It’s good you are archiving your knowledge on YT. Thanks for sharing.
We have experienced that in the Mopar community as well. We were told by people at the factory for YEARS that late 70's Mopar BB castings were thin wall castings and not suitable for performance builds. It's repeated over and over in the DC/MP literature. In the last 10 years people have sonic checked them and found the exact opposite, in fact! In addition, the main saddles are even larger!
Isn't it amazing how far and fast misinformation travels?
I scrapped a lot of blocks based on bad info about 20 years ago. I wish I had those blocks today.
Just as long you mopar is fine in sonic testing don’t worry about it. Sad thing some machine shops still think that about big block mopars
I know the newer B and RB blocks ('76+) can check about 180 hardness vs 200+ for the older blocks. I don't know that's universal though and they softer blocks tend to have more material in my experience. I don't see it as being a huge issue one way or the other.
Thank you Mr Vizard for every upload great information that comes from experience.
I have always doubted that regular production Chevrolet engine blocks had any different nickel content than any other. I worked in a casting foundry in the 80's and knowing how the production process works, I have a hard time believing that Chevrolet would have impeded block production by mixing up a "special" batch of iron to pour a select number of castings. I'm pretty certain that the factory high performance "bow tie" blocks which were not mass produced like factory, had and do have a different mix in the iron for high performance purposes. At least it would make more sense that a special run of high performance racing type blocks would receive a special cocktail. I don't know the specific core assembling process used at GM back in the day, but certain numbers on cores I've worked with identified the core part itself. Example: (when we made 6 cylinder Mack diesel blocks, there were 6 cores to form the cylinders, and two end cores to form the water jack area on the ends, these all had numbers on them to identify them when they were bolted together on the line.) Many people say that the 10/20 on the core on a small block chevy signifies tin and nickel content. i would think that it probably more likely signified to the guys in the core portion of the foundry what part they had (ie, a core part number, rather than information about the iron going to be poured into it).
The subscribers that consistently watch this or any other technical channel first, must be able to comprehend the material and second, must see the likelihood of learning something. I am a shade tree mechanic and love to learn of the techniques one may apply for maximum HP and efficiency of the equipment. Mr. Vizard is clearly applying learned engineering practices to the auto racing hobby. The whole industry benefits when credentialed people apply good science to the craft. Thank you Mr. Vizard
Lawrence, not only did your comment come over as complimentary but it was also elegantly stated.
Thanks
DV
DV in my opinion is the most brilliant and humble person in the automotive industry by far the smartest with a automotive RUclips channel unlike most who want to sell you a part or shirt he cares about ppl getting the right information if he's says something you can take it to the bank thanks for all you do & God bless
Props to you David for learning something new, then taking the time to correct a prior statement!
I've seen to many people in this industry/sport that are not man enough to admit they could possibly do/say anything wrong.
This video goes to show what a stand up and honest guy you are.
A know it all is someone who has made it to the top and talks about the journey. Been there, done that. Crazy people do the same thing over and over again expecting a different outcome. Old and wise men.... enjoy tea and watch the sun come up. Realizing it can be done better.
Thank you Mr Vizard. I always love a good discussion and you're one of the best at that sort of thing irregardless of the format, RUclips, internet forums or in person..... I appreciate your work and your friendship very much.
Here's another Chevy block question; are the main caps that have an "N" cast into them made from nodular iron? When you clink them together they sound sort of like steel. Also, what was the weak area that you've experienced with the 880 blocks? I've seen them with a broken main cap that caused the main webbing to crack and I wonder if maybe it's the caps that are the weak point?
I am not in a position to know about nickel blocks, however I do like the analysis you do of sometimes ""simple" components. I enjoyed your articles in "Car and Car Conversions"" in the mid 70s, (including the one about timing scatter in the A series). My field is a different type of engineering, but many of your methodologies are as applicable. It is alarming how in science based fields old wive's tales still prevail. For some of us the more we know the more we want to know.
g0fvt, your last sentence - isn't that the truth!!
DV
@@marvingvx1 David I have been following your videos for about a year and wish I'd found them a lot sooner. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
I totally agree with your comment!
I didn't even know high nickel engine blocks were a thing. Ya learn something every day!
Being intelligent means that you know nothing at all. Thus always seeking more knowledge. You sir are a consummate.🤗
880 block is generally my go to.
Another great video thanks David I think that you are very knowledgeable about what you are doing and I shure appreciate your time in helping us fellas out here that don't really know the tricks to how to get peek power from our engines and if you were miss interpreted that's ok I don't think it will cost any horse power or torque loss in anyone's engine thanks again for all your help
Well I don’t know how to check for nickle content…but I am just an old hillbilly with not a great place to store my project blocks. So generally they are store in a lean to typy shed outdoors until they are ready to be machined. And although I cant check them with equipment for nickle content I have visually noticed that some of those blocks will get a very thick red rusty surface and some of them will just barely have a thin rusty coating that can be wiped of basically by hand …not completely but it isn’t red rusty chalk. And the ones that don’t rust as bad have a blcker look to the metal. Like I said I can’t check it other than visually but I believe some are different.
David your the best at this game im a machinist as well but i learn something from you every time so maybe im still a wanna be machinist
David I think you mentioned the crux of the issue 1/3 of the way in,( I want to know it al),which is what brings all of us to you.i have many of your books,Smokey Yunik,the boys at Mopar in the early days that started their own race team and raced in they’re off time.i am the least of any of you but I like everyone want to learn which is why I have a small library of automotive books and info.because before PC’s and cell phones that what you did and I anyway also,begining in the mid 90’s began watching all the automotive show’s on tv.i just couldn’t get enough so I guess you could think of your self as a guru of sorts because we want to know and flock to you.i would would say that’s the highest form of an educated form of compliment you can get.i commend and thank you.
Testing with an XRF (xray gun) would sort this out in short order.
Strange the screen goes blank at 5min in, but I kept watching anyway.... gives these old fingers time to type...!
I do remember everyone saying the 0010 Chevy Blocks were the "cream of the crop" and had also heard that it was due to a higher nickel content in that production run..... true or not, they are extremely strong blocks. But when anyone asks me about that, and I see what they are doing with it (usually just an aftermarket intake & carb) I tell them they will never have any issues with that block, because they aren't adding enough with the set up they have to hurt a 2 main block. I don't know.... If I'm building something for my self, and all I have laying around is a newer 1980's or 1990's production 4 bolt main SBC, I don't think twice about using it because I'll never put enough go fast goodies on it to hurt it. But If I'm putting one together to sell it, I try to use an 0010 Block, because everyone wants those, and later on they might be able to take it to the breaking point with go fast goodies I can't afford.
Why not get one and have the iron tested for nickel content, to dispel the confusion once and for all.......
It's seems we all get or attract some few people that always turn something around and start bs. They doing it for click bait or just they are assholes. I love all you videos and I'm still catching up. Thank you for all you wisdom and knowledge I learn something or all kinds of stuff from you videos. Your awesome david please keep it up.
I'm here to learn, not be entertained 👍 That's what this channel is about, learning.
Always a great learning experience!
I'm just wondering, because you only mentioned that the 880 Vortec blocks blew out around 500hp, have you found this true also in the non 880 roller blocks? Ie. The Tuned Port block, the LT1 block or the ZZ blocks. Those 010 blocks are not as easy to find anymore and although you mentioned the 010 number was also just a rumor back in the day and that (you didn't find a problem using non 010 number blocks) you specifically mentioned that it was the 880 vortec blocks that blew up around 500hp. I'm just wondering if you found this to be true with the other roller non 880 blocks.
This is the ONLY time I've ever head this 880 block being weak I've heard exact opposite even GM claims it's harder metal for less wear and longevity complete news to me also heard nogular cranks were junk but seen guys pull 600hp with this junk crank and no probs to this day but I guess the engine assembler is most important..
The 638 is a TBI roller block similar to the 880, i have 010, 880 and 638's on hand so im gonna do a comparison and some hardness testing to see what i can find.
@@jondough4116 I'm trusting David when he says at 7:30 of this video that he's used 3 880 blocks and they all blew from the sides. I'm just wondering if it applied to the TPI and TBI blocks because well, they were the older casting from the mid 80's and up. The Vortec heads were cast thinner to be light so I'm wondering if GM did the same for the 880 block. ruclips.net/video/jBpD4hIYaSs/видео.html
@@luckyPiston please share your results. I'm wondering if it is the cylinder bores that are thinner in the 880 block or if there really was more nickel in the 010 block and maybe the 638 block than the 880. It would have been Lingenfelter, SLP and TPIS doing their builds with the TPI motor back in the day and there are only a few builds I can think of using a pre 880 roller block that made over 500hp from back in the day. The Ten Times the Torque article way back had one of those builds-but they never mentioned the block casting number and it hardly went over 500hp with a TPIS mini ram and Holly Stealth Ram.
@@NelzC I ordered the hardness tester today so it will be a few weeks before i have results but will def come back to this episode/post and give an update.
You make an interesting point which is worth investigating regarding the 880 block and how it may be a post 1996 production block and the 638 that preceded it may be a beefyer piece, for starters i should get one of each striped down and weight them, that and i will closely compare the castings......
What about Bowtie 4bolt main bearing thick cast sbc blocks ?
Hi David I think I found where the story of the high nickel SB Chevy block controversy came from the book CHEVY PERFORMANCE by John Michelsen publish in 1980 suggested under PN 366246 claim to feature high-nickel content alloy. David I hope this helps out where the story all started.
Was this an over the counter "performance" block?
@@DeliriumElectric Yes it was spare parts counter Chevrolet high performance block that was relist in 1979.
@@QTRS10 thanks
Sir, there’s been a lot of bullshit about engine tuning spread in UK over many years. But not from you. Your theories proved themselves in test and competition. Sadly, social media gives voice to good and bad. With huge respect, long may you continue.
Sheesh just send a block sample to a metallurgist for testing. Case closed.
I haven't watched the 383 video yet but I will say that "010" is just the foundry casting pattern , nothing else!! Did the 010 foundry pour require a different metrology pour recipe? possibly? But every single foundry pour was different from a metrology standpoint. I'm quite sure with modern technology that modern foundry recipes have somewhat stabilized. Every machinist who has had to machine a B series Cummins block knows exactly what "high nickel content" is. I look forward to watching the 383 video.
I was told the military spec diesel blocks have more nickel in them buy a Cummins mechanic
@@chrisloveridge627 I spent 8 years in the military( 20 years ago ) and we had very few cummins engines at that time. Cummins would have never known the final destinations of their engines. Dodge. CaseIH and construction equipment manufacturers would have modified the specific piece of equipment for military specifications. The B series cummins is harder and more difficult to machine by nature of the foundry recipe , but they are not without their own issues and quirks.
Hello David, the clucking chickens and lemmings feel intimidated by intelligence.
Did you know Paul Lamar?
Regarding the Chevy powdered metal connecting rods in your 306 mule engine, after narrowing the big end, what bearings were used? Ford or narrowed Chevy?
Thank you,
Dale Davies
When I look at small block chevy/gm I believe that block prep is more important than the Nicole content, I have spark tested a multitude of small blocks and the all spark similar except for an early 60s 327 block I have. To me if the block is free from core shift I build it. I treat the high nickle as I would a 3/4 race cam
Another thing is splayed mains for the 2 bolt blocks
@@shadowopsairman1583 unless you are circle track racing I stud the mains and put a girdle on them
I don't come here for the performance information anyway! I only come here for the excellent one liners that I haven't heard since all my WW2 veteran, friend's have passed! They must be a stupid as 2 short planks 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣! Priceless 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤪🤪🤪🤪
Well said sir
Yup ya popped open a bit of a rabbit hole for some of us ta go down with the reference to high nickel blocks, thanks David :)
I think it is pretty safe to say that GM had a SBC block material requirement that the foundry had to meet and there was an allowable variance/tolerance on that spec, and it is possible that that spec may have varied or was changed a we bit over the years.
Going by evidence from people who have machined these blocks it would appear some are harder than others, so even though GM didn't make high nickel blocks per say , their casting process was varied a bit over the years and some blocks are harder than others.
There also is a correlation between casting thickness, the cooling/hardening effect of different thicknesses and the alloying element %"s used depending in these thicknesses.
I would say if you are searching for a more solid block for your next build , doing some testing with a hardness tester is gonna be part of the plan.
I currently have 22 small blocks and 3 big blocks on hand , i think i'm gonna invest in a hardness tester and figure out which are gonna be the tougher blocks for future builds.
The best part of the video is the final 5 minutes.
why is there ~10-minutes of black at the end of this video?
These days there special machines that give you a readout of the composition of the metal . Would it not give an idea as to what's what?
One of Jenkins' best blocks came out of his '69 ( or so ) 30 Series transporter, with about 110 thou on it, that we took .030 over . He never talked nickel content, ( that I heard ) back in the first two years of small block Pro Stock, and my ears would have jumped off the side of my head . I'm eighty-twenty that it's a myth . At least the " high " part of the story . In the late Seventies I heard of one Pro Stocker that maybe had a high nickel small block .
I've been hearing about the 010 blocks since the mid seventies, but have never seen any proof, but it did trigger another old memory, let's see if you've heard of this one. Pick out some bare blocks to machine and build and let them sit outside in the weather for about a year to " season " . Theory was , it was supposed to make them tougher. I could see the first machining cut being a little bit harder on the tooling due to the surface rust, but not strengthening the block, no way.
I gotta say that a good number of the top engine builders and cylinder head people around have been educated by DV
Would a brinnell hardness check do justice?
So, is the 010 block a good piece?
One of best blocks before 1970... after that the numbers didn't mean anything because the emissions slug engines didn't make any power... didn't need better cast iron... but they still used the same molds, so the 10 and 20 numbers still appeared on them...
wow was it the 010 block? so long ago.
Thanks!
Ya forgot to say a dam good teacher.peace
I'll ask my friend if s high nickel block bores and hones different. He has told me about oldsmobile and others
I can't believe David only has 21,000 subscribers. C'mon people...
If you want a high nickel block, don’t go to a car junkyard. Look in old dualies and heavy duty trucks. The best ones were the trucks that hauled propane and butane. Always had a good flowing head, with high lift springs and stainless steel valves.
Even the vortec era heavy delivery trucks etc often came with a forged crank. Not 4340 but still better than cast. This can be verified by the numbers on the crankshaft. One piece rear seal and not as difficult to find as many think. It's basically as good or better than the forged cranks used in the ZZ4 crate engines.
motivation is learning.. if you have no motivation you willl have no knowledge in that said subject.
My limited experience with 010 blocks is that they seem to be either high performance models or truck blocks. Though not all are 4 bolt. Last one I used was probably late 70s truck block, the clutch had worn out the endfloat on the [cast] crank but the block was very good. Sonic tested very good and was not rusty. 28 years on that engine is still in one piece after 4 rebuilds, 5-6000 racing km. @ up to 7500.
I have never heard of them being hi nickel though would make sense with the application. Bare block less caps weighed about 10lbs more than another bare 350 block. Unlike most blocks it had screw in plugs already behind the timing gears.
One suspects that GM would do a run of the hi nickel blocks and keep the best ones for best. GMH defenitly did that here with both XU1 and L34 blocks. As did Chrysler with the six pack hemi .
Nothing else about GM's performance programs or quality control from that era seems to jive with them picking out stronger or more high performance blocks for anything. It's not like the engines were being stressed with high RPM or high compression from the factory
Your a great guy and I watch a lot of your videos. I was just pointing out the fact that the high nickel legend is NOT TRUE it’s one of the biggest myths of all time. It’s even in super Chevy magazine the title is “A legend that will never die”. 010/020/014/024 can all be found on many different small blocks. 307s/350s/400s etc. they are nothing more than core mold identification numbers. Also cast iron or (grey iron) has material regulations it has to follow. Tin and nickel are not measurable in grey iron. If they were the metal would no longer be considered grey cast iron. There’s been numerous metallurgy tests proving this a myth over the years. One one of the biggest things I’ve heard over the years is that only the bores contain nickel 😂😂. Thats not even possible cast iron blocks are poured into molds and casted together. You cannot add material to the cylinders alone to begin with 😂😂
GM could put any formulation they wanted into their blocks...
On Vegas, GM added material to the cylinders...
I saw a small block Chevy bare block about 30 years ago, that looked like it was made of stainless steel. The guy that owned it said it was a hi-nickel block.
No idea about about Ford USA, though Ford Europe have allways seems to be a bit random.
One may csb in The front stands 010 and 020 Hard Nickel 1% and ten 2% wath I herd??? May Engine werk shop ask me wath block are this 010 020 Block??. Sounds Different when I boring it!!!
This channel is dead for now, find his other channel here: www.youtube.com/@DavidVizard
This is why you are the boss.
The higher nickel block I heard was 74 or 75. Was it ever a race block like 75 mopar X block who knows
A legend…….in his own…..
They are made of cheese. Mouse motors and Rat motors, Cheese I tell you. and it the block is messed up, just go get another one.
I don't know about Chevy blocks but Ford actually had high nickel blocks but was only in Australia and those were the 351 Cleveland blocks used in the Falfon.
I read years and years ago that the 010 blocks had additional tin in the cast iron melt, which aided in pouring the molten iron into the mold and tended to result in less core shift, and the 010 20 block had tin and nickel. I don’t remember where I read it. It was decades ago.
Cadillac and Pontiacs were for sure high nickel blocks. Some HD Chevy blocks (trucks/marine/industrial) have higher nickel blocks. The Vortecs are indeed harder material than the older blocks (experience boring blocks in the machine shop speaking here). I do not know if they are higher nickel???
If I remember there are casting numbers behind the timing cover that will give you a clue if it is a high nickel block. I might have found it in the Chevrolet by the numbers book.
Yeah that’s where the 010 020 marks can be found.
@@prestonrieger8410 if only they meant something 😂😂
@@prestonrieger8410 there simply core mold numbers. 010/020/014/024 can all be found on 350/307/400 blocks and are core mold identification numbers nothing more 😂😂
Yes but the old legend that will never die is not true and could have never been possible in the first place buddy
nowadays it's easy to test theories like this with handheld x-ray spectrometer
Then why has no one done it yet?
The 1970 LT-1 block has 010 and 020 cast numbers behind the timing cover, I was told they refer to 010 being nickel content and the 020 refers to the tin content, The nickel is for strength and the tin was to make the molten iron to flow better into the mold.
Would the 1976 L82 be a high nickel block it has forged steel crank stock and is 4 bolt mains and windage tray I have original but rebuilt mild ported 2.02 heads blower cam Rhodes lifters supercharger in my 1976 4 speed corvette . I have been owned the car 41 years . When I rebuilt the engine almost no wear on the block and stock trw flat top pistons so I reused them installed new rings and clevite 77 bearings new high volume oil pump double row timing chain and sprockets reworked hei measured everything
@@nickking1510 I honestly couldn't say if yours has high nickel, I can only confirm what I was told about my C3 Corvette LT-1 engine and when I put a 383 assy in I confirmed it had the 010 and 020 cast in behind the timing cover and it had the TRW 11-1 lumpy top pistons which I had to change out for 040 pistons on 6 inch rods which are forged DSS flat tops but still running 11-1 with milled Brodix IK200 heads, It has got a very noticible extra push in the seat now but I don't think as much as yours would have with that huffer on top.
@@brianross4057 Thanks my motor has stood up very well 2 seasons of auto cross and track racing which was called solo 1 auto cross and I was in the Yokohama national auto shalom championship B street repaired . I believe was 1988 here in London Ontario Canada. I was up against c3 with big blocks and sponsored by big oil companies that’s why I went to the supercharger . I retired from the racing stripped the car in 2009 and painted it in blue and silver diamond old school metal flake in my garage it was a huge project and also replaced carpet repainted all interior and exterior trim . Dyed the white leather seats door pads polished the Oem stainless trim rings on a buffing wheel till they looked like chrome built a custom 3inch exhaust installed the big tube hooker headers I had bought 30 years earlier lolo . My 3inch collectors on the hookers are the same diameter as my hand fabricated dual exhaust. The car get way to much attention so I drive very little , hope we can still get gas in future 👍
@@nickking1510 Wow Nick thats an outstanding resume, I was going to say that the SBC would have the edge over the BBC on an autocross but yours having the blower would put it on par for front bias weight, but the blown SBC would probably have a more instant gob of torque, I suppose the trick is throttle control to get that torque down without loss of traction. I remember Danny Pop saying when he went LS it was harder to drive than the old LT-1. My son has inherited the C3 and I still love a drive in it but get caught doing 40k over here in Oz it's a massive fine and instant loss of license which dampens the fun factor, I wish I could find a BBC here but they are scarce and would be worth it's weight in gold with the way the world has gone crazy, We are praying the GOP with Trump gets back so he can clean the criminals out of the swamp once and for all and bring some sanity back to the world, Trump is no politician and is not a good speaker but his heart is in the right place.
@@brianross4057 Hi Brian yes the blower made it handle like a big block ,it is a smaller under hood style blower . To compensate for the extra weight I added 2000 lb overloader coil kit for shocks cut 1 coil in half and added it 2 the new Gabriel shocks I put on . So I ended up with stock f41 Oem suspension with the very stiff coils and rear leafs + 2 1/2 of on superior 2000 lb overloader kit for a Buick park ave . To my surprise the car handling was awesome and the coils I added got rid of the squat nose up and made street ride more pleasant lolol . Ps I also added urethane on sway bars and lincs and donuts on rear leaf ends . You won’t believe this but mu clutch is still Oem from 1976 as are the rotors and all ball joints tire rod ends I think there are 17 or 19 Oem grease fittings lolol love c3s.
My neighbor once told me that you should use a "Mexico" casting, because they were thicker material, due to allowing for poor tolerances during production.
GM cast Mexico blocks for lowest power engines, higher power was cast in Defiance Foundry, Ohio, USA...
You attract a more educated audience because you're perceived as an intellectual, thoughtful and educated British man, which I presume is all true.
If you look at the 010 case in a non performance view You will notice that all 010 cases and 4bolt main were commercial use motors.Sorry to the Hi perf and racing user but the commercial arket had a greater economic value to GM than performance It is critical in commercial truck sales that your engines have. A reputation of being tough,durable and rebuildable. Since commercial application power plant are put through far more strenuous work applications than passenger vehicles it only makes sense that G would build special parts. The Performance department took these improved parts and based there engines on them. If you look long enough it all leads back to the money for corporate decision’s.
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Kinda disappointing I believed the high nickle block thing for a few decades, not that it really mattered in the end, but goes to show you can't always believe what you read or hear....
Wait, so in 50yrs no one has bothered to check the actual composition of the castings? If it's a myth or urban legend, it's had a very good run!
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The Ford FE fans, myself included, have had this "high nickel block" chatter for a long time now. Decades for sure. It's basically been dismissed but still pops up from time to time. Ford 9" rear ends have a large "N" molded into the third member section. This specifically shows that it has higher nickel content vs normal versions. I would have expected them to do the same for the FE blocks if they changed material composition slightly. Certainly efforts were made to improve block strength like better casting quality, design tweaks etc...
As far as I know the "N" on Ford third members if for nodular iron.
@@kermitbearden7142 Great point and my mistake for sure. Two many words that start the the letter "N" I guess. Thanks for the clarification.
@@johngaughan1712 Yeah, the N word can get you into a lot of trouble these days.