The Dead Leon EP2 - Torsional Value adjustment & some general maintenance 2.0 TDi BKD
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- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
- He's alive!
So now time to give to show him some love with a little bit of maintenance.
Firstly setting up the 'Torsional Adjustment'aka cam timing.
Followed by a service to get Samuel's juices flowing properly.
I would like to say thank you to anyone who watches my videos and sincerely hope they help you in some way.
Obviously if you dont want to take on this job yourself your friendly Diagnostic Specialist guy (thats me) is more than willing :)
Full contact details are on our website
speedtweaks.co.uk
KW is short for Kurbelwinkel (crank angle), not kilowatt.
For anyone attempting this, the adjustment is WAY WAY more sensitive than what you see here, hence the huge over fuelling from the movement of the exhaust cam. It's important to note that a reading of zero on the torsion value can also mean out of range (valid sensor range is around -6 to +6), this guy is either extremely lucky to get 0 degrees first time, or he went from -4 degrees to more than +6 degrees with the first cam adjustment. If you watch the bolts move in the slot, consider that around 1mm of movement there equals 1 degree of timing change. This video is a great guide of how to do the job, just go in tiny tiny steps though. If you have a lumpy idle mess with the exhaust cam, some engines are happy at 0.4L, some need 0.6L.
Is there a way to adjust the exhaust cam without feeling such a high resistance when pushing on it to adjust? I have to push quite hard? The 3 13mm’s were all slacked off, I am guessing it is because the cam is near tdc? Could turning the engine over manually so it isn’t at tdc help? This mpg is shit at the moment cus it needs adjusting. Fuel consumption 0.8, Torsion Value -0.45/-0.95 it flicks between the two sometimes. It use to be Fuel consumption 0.4, Torsion Value -.045/0.00 flicks between the two.
@@MrZimmaframe If it used to be 'Fuel consumption 0.4, Torsion Value -.045/0.00' then you should have taken the exhaust cam clockwise to get to 0.6 and it would be perfect. Yes the cam is hard to move, if you use a long enough spanner or breaker bar just tap on it and the cam will move enough. Even if you're unsure that it's moved just tighten the 3 bolts and check the figures again as it's very minor adjustment, be sure to mark with a pen/paint where the cam pulley and bolt meet so you know where you started. The reading in measuring block 15-2 (engine torque) should end up being low 30's, anything below 28 and you get a rough idle, anything above 34 and you're wasting fuel. At this point the consumption value should be 0.6, sometimes flickering to 0.4.
@@squadmeta Ye you're right before I did the cambelt change it would be 0.6 when cold and 0.4 when hot and it idled a lot better. I think 0.8 when cold and 0.6 when hot is giving me a slight judder on idle as it is a bit rich. Cheers for the advice, I might make something to hold the cam sprocket when I make my adjustments.
The other day It felt like a nightmare because the actually camshaft bolt started to undo slightly 😬 when I was turning it back trying to get 0.6-0.4.
Upon trying to tighten it the whole cam moved forward the other day, so I didn't start it and had to do the whole thing again, had to take the belt off to move the cam back to tdc (other pins in place too first) and started all over again after torquing the 18mm bolt down to spec 100Nm. Not fun 😂. Haha
@@MrZimmaframe The figures when warm are the ones to look at, 0.8 on cold start lowering to 0.6 when warm is perfect. These engines are not silky smooth even when set right, but if you feel the lumpiness is not right then check the injector loom if it's never been changed. Turning the A/C on (if it works!) will increase the consumption value and the idle should still be as smooth. Mine at one point flickered between 0.2 and 0.4, if I put the A/C on it went up to 0.6 and the lumpy idle disappeared.
@@squadmeta For now I don't think I will mess with the fuel consumption anymore, too much bother if something moves too far. But I am tempted to adjust the torsional value, it is -0.98 at the moment. I looked at block 15.2 like you said and it was hovering between 23 and 21 weirdly.
Mines at -5.5 and exhaust 0.8 drives spot on but idles like a bag of nails.. will be adjusting it tomorrow using obdeleven and the same way you've done it thank you so much for the video.. wish me luck 🙏
How did it go?
@HolyWanja all pretty straightforward really just follow as seen in the video it idle'd nice and smooth afterwards so a massive improvement
So what's the crack when you do a new belt then? When you use the locking pins on the sprockets....?
Do you have to do this procedure?
I adjusted my BKD to 0 torsion and 0.6l/h and it runs great at idle but it used to be on -1 torsion and it seemed to pull better at that setting problem is the idle was a bit lumpy so not sure what to go with, may try and set it somewhere in-between and see what happens.
How did u get on?
@@leewalerzak I ended up adjusting the torsion value slightly I think it ended up around -0.5 or something, runs pretty well these days I get the odd little judder now and then but pretty smooth running in general. You just have to keep fiddling around with them and take it for a short drive Inbetween until you get it how you want.
@@bendude6748 just finished doing it mate got it around 0.5 on the third adjustment and 0.6 and I can't believe the difference almost no judder to say I'm rather chuffed with myself is an understatement..
@@leewalerzak nice 👍🏻 yeah it’s much nicer without the car shaking about especially when you’re sitting in traffic lol
My bkp, fuel consumption is showing sometimes 1.25 sometimes 0.25?, it doesn’t flick like yours does, it hardly moves unless your Rev it?
I got -2.0 but my l/h is 0.6 so should i just adjust front cam? Thanks
A have the same values. Engine is idleling fine when worm, but when cold it idles like yours at minute 13:05. Any tips ? Thank you.
That idle consumption depends a lot on wether the air conditioning compressor is on or off, the outside and inside temperature in case it has a climatronic and the temperature set on it. Nobody says anything about this when talking about the idle consumption. The torsion value doesn't have to be 0, every engine has its "sweet spot". I have 2 PD engines both with the torsion value of 2.5. One is running perfectly and the other one injects a fraction of a second too early as it should be, hence the cam hitting the injector too early. If you want your pistons to hit your valves, play with this... Cheers!
Don't mine yesterday best I could get was 0.35 and 4lph on mine have your anything suggestions how to get it down to .00
Adjust exhaust cam
I really love the look of those cars really wish they were in my shitty country never see them
Hello.first of all,i am a new viewer of your lovely channel .i hope it will certainly helps us to avoid some mechanic problems. My question is what will happen to the engine if the camshaft is not ajustede? Or how do il know that the camshaft is not ajusted? Thanks in advance for the video
Would the l/h on Idle be affected with a remap or should I still aim for .4-.6? Also did you adjust just the rear cam to adjust fuel?
Hi how much do you charge to adjust inlet cam/exhaust cam mine is currently set to -3-37 thanks
great video and as always i learned a lot again however i just have one question. I seen you move both camshaft pullys forward and then once you got to the point you was happy with the torsional value you said ok now to adjust the "rear one" to correct fuel consumption. What do you mean by the rear one (exahust pully again?) and also how does this affect the fuel consumption figures ?
Thanks Chris
Hi Chris, sorry I should have made it a little more clear on the video. VAG call the PID or Measured Value Block for the Inlet Cam 'Torsional Value' and the Exhaust Cam 'Fuel Consumtion'. it is simply cam position relative to the crank position, but they decided to make it awkward and give it designation according to their own needs. My own personal understanding (in no way fact, just how I depict it) of why the MVB its called 'Fuel Consumption' is this - The way in which you time the exhaust will directly cost you more in fuel and a less productive engine, ie if the exhaust valves are open longer so if opened earlier in the combustion stroke you require more LPH for the same output, and if open later it will reduce efficiency at next intake stroke.
Sorry for the longwinded answer but basically
Torsional Value = Inlet Cam Timing
Fuel Consumtion = Exhaust cam timing
In may ways it is easier this way if you have the specs as you are not working with degrees over a 720 cycle
@@SpeedTweaks okay thank you again. Always good to learn from you and I think others reading this will also be wiser too
@@SpeedTweaks 0.4 is ok?
hello..I'm interested in how to put the torsion value on the 0 tdi BLS engine at 0 and the fuel consumption to be 0.4-0.6..when I return the torsion value to 0 to me the fuel consumption will be 0.8 ... WHICH TORSION VALUE IS THE BEST FOR BLS ENGINE ...THANKS
@@SpeedTweaks pozz which is the torsion value best for bls engine 1.9 and how to put it at 0 and that fuel consumption is 0.4 0.6..menu at 0 will be 0.8 idle consumption
How not to do it.
righto
Do not again do not copy what this lad is doing in the video. It is incorrect. To add to this , as someone has already mentioned. 0.0 kW on torsion value may not be correct & may be a case that the cam is out of range/ tolerance = correlation error. Vehicle will not start & potentially cause damage if adjusted too far. At no point on ELSA PRO VWAG does it mention to adjust torsion values. If the timing circuit has been done correctly as per Manufacturers spec , then there should not be an issue. I am a Certified main dealer Audi technician.
I agree with you on this, Elsa does not mention anything like this. But this does allow smoothness of a lumpy engine. On issues I have with the process is the possibility of loosening the cam centre bolt. The bkd engine is not the smoothest of engines and this adjustment does help. As you are a main dealer tech what would you recommend to fix the lumpy idle even if timing has been done perfectly with all pins correctly in place?