I've been following your bathroom renovation projects and appreciate the insights you share. I recently conducted a detailed exploration into the safety and installation practices concerning foam core backer boards, specifically focusing on the critical role of wood blocking for secure grab bar installations. Our findings highlight the potential risks and structural integrity issues that can arise from omitting wood blocking, even with the most reliable materials and techniques. Given the importance of safety and durability in renovations, I thought this information could be beneficial to your projects and audience. Incorporating wood blocking can significantly enhance the strength and safety of grab bar installations, a detail that's often overlooked. I'd be happy to share our findings and discuss further. Keep up the great work, and thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community!
Great video. You covered everything! In 2023, Amazon sells a GoBoard seam tape, but you have to buy a big roll of it, and it is not cheap. They probably sell it because old timers like me cannot let go of covering a joint with tape. Maybe it is an old drywall habit that is very hard to break. Please keep making these nice videos.
Great video. I'll be starting my project this weekend. Bought the GoBoard at Lowes, but they don't sell the GoBoard Sealant in my area, so called the company for recommendations for alternatives. I saw on your website that you mention that this product is "itchy". I'm so glad you said it because I wondered why my arms were getting itchy and developing hives when I was loading my car.
Over on the jm website they have some documents available for download. They may have a retailer list and they also have an alternative sealant list if you can't find their sealant
I like this product and your demo. I have a question about an observation at time marker 6:11 - 6:17. As you are screwing in the next section I notice you have strip(s) of, for lack of a better term, 'foam backer' pieces stapled to the stud(s). But there's another piece sort of loose material behind the board as you drive in the first top screw. Is it the same material & why?
I can't tell whether you left the 1/8 inch gap where the GoBoard meets the tub nailing flange. It looks like you didn't in the video, but I saw that you did mention it specifically in the blog posting. I'm commenting here because some people might just watch the video and not read the blog.
So many ppl say that these new waterproof systems are overkill and a waste of money but personally i love it. It helps ease my ocd lol. Given thr option why wouldn't anyone want to have a completey watertight systen.
One other thing you may try on the install next time is instead of adding strips of thin paper on the studs, use something like the old wood lath strips or ripped down pieces of wood probably 1/4 in thickness nailed to the stud faces. This will bring the GoBoard past the top flange of the tub where it can just drop down sitting on top of the tub. You could still use your 1/8" spacers just sit them on top of the tub below the lip. You will use less tube sealant, no need for mesh tape, and the top of the flange is completely covered all around by the GoBoard then thin-set and tile. No chance of it leaking because the board is past the flange and not sitting on top of it.
Dumb question. I get that the goboard has a surface well designed for mortaring tile. But it seems like you cover a lot of it with sealant that completely changes that surface. Does mortar or other adhesive have trouble sticking to all that sealant?
The manufacturer has tested and says adhering to the seams still meets the minimum requirements. You could use seam tape instead of the sealant if you're concerned about it. Not a dumb question.
Nice work. Can you tell me which of the two ways of sealing board seams do you recommend most.. * caulking board edge as you hang each one... or * leaving 1/8" gap then caulking afterwards? Also. What type of tape did you use on edges of 2x4s
The strips are called drywall shims and they are used for shimming out the studs so the walls are flat prior to installing the board. They are made out of cardboard and found in the drywall section of your home improvement store.
Great idea on putting mesh at the tub flange. Thanks for the awesome video! About how many tubes of sealant did you use? And what did you use to clean off sealant on your putty knife? About to do a similar size shower and want to use GoBoard instead of cement board.
How comfortable would you feel about framing, applying plywood, then this go board w/sealant over to make shower benches, corner seats, and niches? Prefabbed niches and seats are not cost friendly, but this could make an easy solution.
I wouldn't have any issues with doing it that way. I usually would use thinset in addition to screws on horizontal surfaces but what you're describing would work fine.
Huge difference. Above the flange less chance of water wicking up to the board. If it’s installed on the bed of the tub then the board will sit in a puddle of water.
They are drywall shims for flattening out the walls prior to installing GoBoard. You can find them in the drywall section of your local home improvement store.
If it's a fiberglass shower pan then I would seal it exactly like I did in this video. I also have a blog post on this topic on my diytileguy blog if that's helpful at all.
If you can shim out your walls and drop the board in front of the flange then that's probably the way to go. But if it doesn't work to do that then keep it above
I prefer to make them myself as I can make them work out perfectly for the tile. I have a series on niches on my blog here: www.diytileguy.com/foam-recessed-shower-niche/
Great video. What was the product you had on the studs? I’m remodeling and the rest of the bathroom has 5/8 drywall, so I’m thinking of shimming the studs behind the GoBoard to make it fit evenly.
I have some drywall shims on the studs to flatten things out. They are little cardboard strips and you can find them in the drywall section of your hardware store.
The parent company is an insulation company and they use some of that technology in their board. They have a product named GoBoard PRO that doesn't itch but it's a newer offering and less available currently.
I'd figure 1 tube does 2 sheets. Then add on one for any components like if you are banding the tub flange, a niche, a bench, or something like that. Then I'd probably get 1 more just in case.
Great video, thank you, I am doing a steam shower but having hard time figuring out what to use, I love that goboard is available in the store across the street from me, and it is affordable compared to other product, but I am having hard time finding information about it, according to their installation document they require an approved vapor barrier , could not find anything else about a steam shower build, wondering if you have done a steam shower and what you used, thank you
Where is your 1/8th inch spacer at the top of the tub flange board, and the bottom of the first piece of Go Board? At 4:12 you said you were going to do that, but you didn't.
Do you still use mesh tape at the flange or have you switched over to the GoBoard tape? Also, do you now use GoBoard washers in conjunction with the fastners? Thanks!
Regarding the tub flange, Go board sells a band, similiar to a "kerdi ban" wouldn't that be adequete to fit in there? Those are recommended to be installed with thin set. So I am assume just thin set over the goboard sealant?
Yes, there tape, or band, is a good choice for that application. In my experience, you usually want to thinset the band to the board but use sealant on the tub flange.
Never really worked with the go board sealant so let it cure and then thin set over the board, sealant and the flange and run the band down to the tub?
I'd apply a bead of their sealant over the tub flange then notch thinset on the panel. Then embed the band into both simultaneously. Or you could thinset the band on all the way around and come back and lift up the bottom and apply sealant over the flange and embed the bottom into the flange.
The sealant will stick better to both the tub flange and the banding material than the mortar will to the sealant. You could use the sealant to adhere the whole band to the backer board and tub flange if you wanted. I trust the sealant more than mortar when it comes to this particular application.
Best DIY video I have ever viewed. I subscribed. Thank you! Two questions - (1) what are the strips you are attaching to the 2x4 frame before attaching the GoBoard?, (2) The plumber who installed my tub used large headed screws into the flange to secure to frame . . . they stick out a little more than the 1/2" thickness of the GoBoard, which is why I am wondering if the strips you are attaching in my first questions could be enough to offset the screw heads?
The strips are drywall shims that you can find at the local hardware store in the drywall section. They are for flattening the walls prior to installing the board. The strips might be enough to build out the wall but you don't want to build the wall out too far past the drywall if you can help it.
I read the Go Board instructions and they talk about a vapor barrier before you put on the go board. Why did you not put up a vapor barrier? thank you and this is a great video
The only time that you need a vapor barrier is when you are building a steam shower. A steam shower is a specific type of shower and differs from a standard shower. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_shower
Great video, thank you! I just subscribed to your channel - A question about using go board wall panels and a Schluter shower pan (Due to product shortages I am looking to combine Goboard walls with a Schluter shower pan) - can I use thin-set and kerdi-band to “connect” and waterproof the seam between the Goboard walls and the Schluter shower pan?
Hey! I have a couple questions if you don't mind! What kind of mesh tape did you use at the bottom by the tub flange? I see there are different mesh tapes for different applications, cement board etc. Also, I'm going to tile the bathroom floor using a Schluter ditra decoupling membrane - Recommendations on how to waterproof between the membrane and the bottom of the tub skirt? Thank you! Finally, I want to significantly improve the waterproofing in my entire bathroom, including the walls. Any recommendations on this?
I think a better way of sealing the tub flange is to use a banding and seal it to the tub flange with the backer board sealant. This same sealant can be used to seal in-between the bathtub and uncoupling membrane and elsewhere. Also, the banding can be used to cover the uncoupling membrane seams and flashed up the wall if you really want to waterproof your floor well.
What other products can I use and adhere on GoBoard for a shower? I really would like to avoid heavy tile since I'm doing an RV wet room. FRP? etc Thanks for any insight.
I cannot find the GoBoard sealant outside of a kit. Can you recommend a place to order the sealant or an alternative that I could find at my local Lowes/HD/Menards?
@@zuul2591 I wondered same thing. I see someone else recommended 1 tube per sheet. I use PLS40 sealant and also get 1 tube of PL glue as a liquid shim where required.
They're not required and I don't care for the washers with Goboard. They don't really suck in like they do with cement-coated foam boards. I prefer the bigger-headed Goboard screws. There are situations where you need the washers, though.
Do you use any type of flashing between the tube or shower floor to the GoBoard or do you just use the 1/8 spacing and sealant? What are those gray strips you placed on the 2x4 for the GoBoard to rest on. Great video. Thank you
Yes, thinset should be used. Not premixed but the cement kind that you mix with water. It should meet ANSI 118.4 or better. www.diytileguy.com/which-thinset-to-use-infographic/
Yes, there will be a little bit of flex. GoBoard is better than many foam boards, in my opinion. Wedi is the best in terms of stiffness. You can always put blocking behind the seams if it's something that you are concerned about but I've found it to be quite stout once the tile is installed.
I guess don't go with small tiles. I been putting backer where I can but in some areas (vent pipe) I couldn't put backer other than the standard 16" span for the studs.... This is my first time doing GoBoard so used to cement backer board. I am going with a larger Subway so hopefully it strenghens up. @@DIYTileGuy
You can cover the studs DIRECTLY with the GoBoard. No Plastic or membrane needed Don't follow the video. Put a bead of sealant on ALL the edges of the GoBoard as you install it and use a 2" putty knife to smooth it out. Use butt joints in the corners, (you'll only need to caulk one of the edges). Use sealant on the transition from the goboard to the drywall/green board that covers the rest of the room. And over all your screws. It really is that simply. No taping, no waterproof membranes, no redgard, etc etc.
Drywall shims for flattening the walls prior to installing the GoBoard. You can get them at any hardware store like Lowes or Home Depot in the drywall section.
how long did you wait to start tiling? Are you waiting for the sealant to cure or just skim? I used the loctite polyurethane concrete and masonry sealant vs the goboard sealant and it takes longer to skim and cure so I am wondering at what point I can go ahead and start tiling. Did you do two coats of the sealant or was one plenty?
I did one coat of the sealant and I wait until it's not tacky anymore. Usually, that's the next day but I have used one that took two days to cure. I don't remember which product it was though.
Those are drywall shims for flattening out the wall prior to installing the backer board. You can find them in the drywall section of your local home improvement store.
in this video he left a gap between the tub surround and the go board then used sealant and a mesh tape to make the difference. I shimmed my studs for perfect level and then it was enough to overcome the difference the tub surround makes so i covered the surround with the go board. Left like 1/8 of an inch so it wasnt sitting right on the surround and used the sealant in the gap. Many others on youtube do it this way and it makes sense if you alrdy have to shim studds for level
I would figure 1 tube per sheet and then add a couple of extra on to the total. So If you are installing 5 sheets then buy 7 tubes. Good question and I forgot to mention this in the video.
So with these boards you don't have to paint a waterproof membrane like Redgard. I prompt response would be appreciated as I'm doing a walk-in shower soon and still deciding this over cement board? Thanks 👍
Good to see other companies vying for the same audience. I’ve looked at more videos on different systems and I get overwhelmed. Glad I’m doing my homework. Simple question. I love that, what appears to be your own makeshift straightedge for cutting the GoBoard that keeps your fingers away from the blade. What is that? I bought a piece of flat stock aluminum from Grainger. A heck of a lot less pricey than buying a product that is specifically designated and sold as a straight edge either from the big box stores, or Amazon or the like. Thanks.
It's another product that accomplishes the same goal. I found this product to be more rigid and simpler to install but Kerdi board has it's fans as well.
There's a method where you fill the seams with thinset mortar and mesh tape rather than sealant. If you follow this method then you can apply Redgard over the thinset seams. If you're not using this method then Redgard, or any liquid waterproofing, is not advisable.
@@spencer.jacobs I don’t think it’s necessary. I caulked the tile to ceiling/drywall joint, then painted the caulk. Use paintable caulk I used quad max. Been 2 years and it’s held up perfect. Use blue tape to keep lines clean. Caulking there will be PLENTY enough protection so as to not allow water to seep behind wall. It’s also mostly for aesthetic reasons you caulk that joint since hardly any water gets up there anyways. Probably more condensation/steam than anything so the caulk is sufficient; nothing needed for backerboard/ceiling joint.
What's there an alternative to the go board sealant. I saw someone in another video using a locktite polyurethane sealant. The go board brand is $16 a pop.
On my website, I have the GoBoard alternative sealant list. You can also find it on GoBoard's website. I believe GoBoard offers a longer warranty with their sealant. www.diytileguy.com/goboard-tile-backer/
@@DIYTileGuy thanks, looks like Goboard has a list of approved sealants they recommend. I ended up using "Fuze it" by liquid nails. That stuff is super sticky and feels like rubber when it dries.
I thought the installation requires the fasteners screws to be 8” apart as the dots on the go board shows for best results? You did 6” fine vertically but, horizontally 16” on center?
So I have multiple distances between studs in my shower for whatever reason. Should I screw the board in every 8 inches if that's where a stud happens to fall or just do every 16 inches so it's all even?
I went ahead and added the extra studs in the shower instead of screwing to the 16” on center. The cost and work was minimal. The go board is light and I felt better hanging all that tile on the board.
im trying to build a divider for my van. would this stand on its own if I used brakets? also , is it sturdy enough for me to install sconces on it? sconces will weight about 3 lbs each . i wil install 2
I don't think the edges of this stuff would work very well if they are exposed in your van. For sconces, typically the cans will mount on a stud or a spreader bar so it's not the board that would hold them up. However, if your trying to use a remodel box then your going to want a style that will grab as much surface area behind the board as possible.
Well you could add more studs like I did. What a waste. I listened to the tile store where I purchased the board. Obviously, JM would know. Thanks for reply .
Yes. Use mesh tape, fill the gap with thinset mortar, and tile over that connection. The ceiling you can just butt into but you'll want to leave a small gap between the tile and the ceiling.
@@DIYTileGuy the tile will not go to the ceiling but stop shy about 2 to 3 inches. Also the tile will stop shy by about the same 2 to 3 inches on the front and back walls of the stall. I used drywall compound in both spots for painting it. Love the GoBoard ! Kind of itchy when cutting it though.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been following your bathroom renovation projects and appreciate the insights you share. I recently conducted a detailed exploration into the safety and installation practices concerning foam core backer boards, specifically focusing on the critical role of wood blocking for secure grab bar installations. Our findings highlight the potential risks and structural integrity issues that can arise from omitting wood blocking, even with the most reliable materials and techniques.
Given the importance of safety and durability in renovations, I thought this information could be beneficial to your projects and audience. Incorporating wood blocking can significantly enhance the strength and safety of grab bar installations, a detail that's often overlooked.
I'd be happy to share our findings and discuss further. Keep up the great work, and thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community!
I agree. Wood blocking for grab bars is a good decision.
I would think you need blocking for grab bars regardless of what kind of backer you use.
Great video. You covered everything! In 2023, Amazon sells a GoBoard seam tape, but you have to buy a big roll of it, and it is not cheap. They probably sell it because old timers like me cannot let go of covering a joint with tape. Maybe it is an old drywall habit that is very hard to break. Please keep making these nice videos.
Thank you!
Great instructions & techniques! Very clear with good camera angles to show exactly what you’re doing.
This is awesome, thank you for posting it! Loving seeing the process and the details of the work you've provided.
Thank you!
I bet a jig saw would be great for small detailed cuts.
I love this product, my favorite way of waterproofing so far. Thank you for the video, it helped me a lot.
Good to hear! Thanks for your feedback
Great video. I'll be starting my project this weekend. Bought the GoBoard at Lowes, but they don't sell the GoBoard Sealant in my area, so called the company for recommendations for alternatives. I saw on your website that you mention that this product is "itchy". I'm so glad you said it because I wondered why my arms were getting itchy and developing hives when I was loading my car.
I called the company for a sealant retailer or alternative and they didn't return my call.What did they recommend?
Over on the jm website they have some documents available for download. They may have a retailer list and they also have an alternative sealant list if you can't find their sealant
I like this product and your demo. I have a question about an observation at time marker 6:11 - 6:17. As you are screwing in the next section I notice you have strip(s) of, for lack of a better term, 'foam backer' pieces stapled to the stud(s). But there's another piece sort of loose material behind the board as you drive in the first top screw. Is it the same material & why?
Drywall shims for flattening the walls
I can't tell whether you left the 1/8 inch gap where the GoBoard meets the tub nailing flange. It looks like you didn't in the video, but I saw that you did mention it specifically in the blog posting. I'm commenting here because some people might just watch the video and not read the blog.
So many ppl say that these new waterproof systems are overkill and a waste of money but personally i love it. It helps ease my ocd lol. Given thr option why wouldn't anyone want to have a completey watertight systen.
One the best product in the market
One other thing you may try on the install next time is instead of adding strips of thin paper on the studs, use something like the old wood lath strips or ripped down pieces of wood probably 1/4 in thickness nailed to the stud faces. This will bring the GoBoard past the top flange of the tub where it can just drop down sitting on top of the tub. You could still use your 1/8" spacers just sit them on top of the tub below the lip. You will use less tube sealant, no need for mesh tape, and the top of the flange is completely covered all around by the GoBoard then thin-set and tile. No chance of it leaking because the board is past the flange and not sitting on top of it.
Dumb question. I get that the goboard has a surface well designed for mortaring tile. But it seems like you cover a lot of it with sealant that completely changes that surface. Does mortar or other adhesive have trouble sticking to all that sealant?
The manufacturer has tested and says adhering to the seams still meets the minimum requirements. You could use seam tape instead of the sealant if you're concerned about it. Not a dumb question.
I REALLY appreciate this video, I'm using goboard for multiple bathrooms now that I feel so much more confident thanks to you!
I'm glad that this video was helpful. Thanks for your comments!
Nice work. Can you tell me which of the two ways of sealing board seams do you recommend most..
* caulking board edge as you hang each one... or
* leaving 1/8" gap then caulking afterwards?
Also. What type of tape did you use on edges of 2x4s
Applying the sealant as you go would have the least opportunity for user error.
Great video....why are you mounting it on strips to keep it off of the studs? And what material are the strips made of?
The strips are called drywall shims and they are used for shimming out the studs so the walls are flat prior to installing the board. They are made out of cardboard and found in the drywall section of your home improvement store.
The goboard sounds fine, but will it break if someone lean or fall against it while in the shower?
Once it's tiled it wouldn't be easy to break through
Cement board all the way can't put your fist through it just as easy except for the weight cut outside with carbide blade on circle saw
Fantastic video. I'm definitely going to try this product. Do you know about how many tubes of the sealant caulk you used on this install?
I'd figure one tube for every two sheets and then add one or two more just to be safe.
@@DIYTileGuy Thank you so much! That is super helpful. Again, great video. Best one I've seen.
excellent video. this is pure gold, saving one shower at a time
Thanks!
Great idea on putting mesh at the tub flange. Thanks for the awesome video! About how many tubes of sealant did you use? And what did you use to clean off sealant on your putty knife? About to do a similar size shower and want to use GoBoard instead of cement board.
Denatured alcohol will clean up the sealant. I'd figure 1 tube for every 2 sheets plus a couple of extra.
haven't used go board on a shower but regularly use it on back splashes. I like the rigidity of the product!
I agree. It's a good product at a good price point. 👍
Excellent video thank you!
Easy to install, works well
How comfortable would you feel about framing, applying plywood, then this go board w/sealant over to make shower benches, corner seats, and niches? Prefabbed niches and seats are not cost friendly, but this could make an easy solution.
I wouldn't have any issues with doing it that way. I usually would use thinset in addition to screws on horizontal surfaces but what you're describing would work fine.
Or, skip the framing and just use Schlueter kerdi board!
Is there a difference if you put the board on top of the flange vs against the tub (in front of flange)? Thanks
Huge difference. Above the flange less chance of water wicking up to the board. If it’s installed on the bed of the tub then the board will sit in a puddle of water.
Good shimming on the studs.
Lots of great tips. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
maybe he said it but i missed it, what are the grey strips he stapled to the studs before putting the board up?
They are drywall shims for flattening out the walls prior to installing GoBoard. You can find them in the drywall section of your local home improvement store.
@@DIYTileGuy thanks. Is this a necessary step for installing goboard?
Walls should always be flattened prior to installing any backer board. The better job you do, the easier the tiling goes.
If you were doing a shower only would you seal around the bottom seam the same as the wall seams? Great video
If it's a fiberglass shower pan then I would seal it exactly like I did in this video. I also have a blog post on this topic on my diytileguy blog if that's helpful at all.
What about to the flange of a cast iron shower pan? Still use mesh tape or just a heavy bead of polyurethane sealant only?
I like using mesh tape along with the sealant. But others might simply use sealant only
If you use the GoBoard Pan you run walls all the way down with no sealant on bottom. Pan gets an 1/8" gap and sealed later.
Thank you very much for doing this!
This is the best video I've seen on using GoBoard! Can you use a schluter base with GoBoard? (For a curbless shower?) (With schluter corner tape?)
Yes, you can combine the two products.
I appreciate your detailed description. Just to make clear - the board rests ON TOP of the tub flange?
If you can shim out your walls and drop the board in front of the flange then that's probably the way to go. But if it doesn't work to do that then keep it above
Just curious, why would you use tape for the tub joints but not corners? Great video!
It's not required for the corner but you could use it there too.
Hi. Do you like to create your own niches or buy them premade. Why Oy why not? Thanks
I prefer to make them myself as I can make them work out perfectly for the tile. I have a series on niches on my blog here: www.diytileguy.com/foam-recessed-shower-niche/
Did you put strips on the 2 x 4s behind the go board?
Hey do you need to tape the seams?
You can if you like. If you do, you might consider installing the waterproof banding with thinset rather than using the sealer.
Great video. What were the vertical gray shim pieces for?
This are drywall shims to flatten the walls before installing the board
@@DIYTileGuy How many (drywall) shims would you be comfortable with before sistering or running wood furring strips?
@diytileguy in some areas it would require us to go with 1 5/8" screws vs the 1 1/4"
What is your opinion of the goboard shower pan system. I want to replace a fiberglass shower but prefer not to move the drain to fit a preformed pan.
Great video. What was the product you had on the studs? I’m remodeling and the rest of the bathroom has 5/8 drywall, so I’m thinking of shimming the studs behind the GoBoard to make it fit evenly.
I have some drywall shims on the studs to flatten things out. They are little cardboard strips and you can find them in the drywall section of your hardware store.
After working with the billboard, I felt like I'd been working with fiberglass and had pieces in my hands. Is this a fiberglass product?
The parent company is an insulation company and they use some of that technology in their board. They have a product named GoBoard PRO that doesn't itch but it's a newer offering and less available currently.
Approximately how many tubes of sealant did you use on this job? Great video btw!
Figure 1 tube per two sheets
How many tubes of sealant needed? Cant find answer in any of go boards lit. 3x5 shower
I'd figure 1 tube does 2 sheets. Then add on one for any components like if you are banding the tub flange, a niche, a bench, or something like that. Then I'd probably get 1 more just in case.
@@DIYTileGuy Thank you
Great video, thank you, I am doing a steam shower but having hard time figuring out what to use, I love that goboard is available in the store across the street from me, and it is affordable compared to other product, but I am having hard time finding information about it, according to their installation document they require an approved vapor barrier , could not find anything else about a steam shower build, wondering if you have done a steam shower and what you used, thank you
I'm not sure what the requirements are for a steam shower but I would encourage you to contact GoBoard and they can help with that application.
Where is your 1/8th inch spacer at the top of the tub flange board, and the bottom of the first piece of Go Board? At 4:12 you said you were going to do that, but you didn't.
Everything is gapped all the way around. If it gets too tight then I just cut the gap in with a utility knife
Do you still use mesh tape at the flange or have you switched over to the GoBoard tape? Also, do you now use GoBoard washers in conjunction with the fastners? Thanks!
I have switched over to the seam tape but i don't like washers with this board. They don't really sink in like they do with Wedi.
Thanks for your response!
Regarding the tub flange, Go board sells a band, similiar to a "kerdi ban" wouldn't that be adequete to fit in there? Those are recommended to be installed with thin set. So I am assume just thin set over the goboard sealant?
Yes, there tape, or band, is a good choice for that application. In my experience, you usually want to thinset the band to the board but use sealant on the tub flange.
Never really worked with the go board sealant so let it cure and then thin set over the board, sealant and the flange and run the band down to the tub?
I'd apply a bead of their sealant over the tub flange then notch thinset on the panel. Then embed the band into both simultaneously. Or you could thinset the band on all the way around and come back and lift up the bottom and apply sealant over the flange and embed the bottom into the flange.
May I ask why not thinset over the cured goboard sealant? I want to try and get a belt and suspenders approach on this flange.
The sealant will stick better to both the tub flange and the banding material than the mortar will to the sealant. You could use the sealant to adhere the whole band to the backer board and tub flange if you wanted. I trust the sealant more than mortar when it comes to this particular application.
Can I install 3” x 11” Carrara marble tiles on the 1/2” goboard? Alcove bathtub application.
Yes. Perfectly OK.
Why do you put cardboard strips between the Go Board and the studs?
to flatten the walls out before installing the backer board. They're called drywall shims and are found in the drywall section of your big box store.
so wouldn't it be a good idea to use mesh tape into the joints with the sealant. and in the corners to make it stronger
Yes, it can help with strength but it's not required.
Best DIY video I have ever viewed. I subscribed. Thank you! Two questions - (1) what are the strips you are attaching to the 2x4 frame before attaching the GoBoard?, (2) The plumber who installed my tub used large headed screws into the flange to secure to frame . . . they stick out a little more than the 1/2" thickness of the GoBoard, which is why I am wondering if the strips you are attaching in my first questions could be enough to offset the screw heads?
The strips are drywall shims that you can find at the local hardware store in the drywall section. They are for flattening the walls prior to installing the board.
The strips might be enough to build out the wall but you don't want to build the wall out too far past the drywall if you can help it.
I read the Go Board instructions and they talk about a vapor barrier before you put on the go board. Why did you not put up a vapor barrier? thank you and this is a great video
The only time that you need a vapor barrier is when you are building a steam shower. A steam shower is a specific type of shower and differs from a standard shower. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_shower
Or if code requires it
No vapor barrier is required for Schlueter!
Great video, thank you! I just subscribed to your channel - A question about using go board wall panels and a Schluter shower pan (Due to product shortages I am looking to combine Goboard walls with a Schluter shower pan) - can I use thin-set and kerdi-band to “connect” and waterproof the seam between the Goboard walls and the Schluter shower pan?
Yes, you can do it exactly the same way as if you were using Kerdi-Board
If cost was not an issue is this better vs schulter ?
I prefer this board to Schuter's Kerdi Board
if there are no Go board sealant.. What else can I use? Can you use RedGard on the joints like you would Hardibacker?
Hey! I have a couple questions if you don't mind! What kind of mesh tape did you use at the bottom by the tub flange? I see there are different mesh tapes for different applications, cement board etc.
Also, I'm going to tile the bathroom floor using a Schluter ditra decoupling membrane - Recommendations on how to waterproof between the membrane and the bottom of the tub skirt? Thank you!
Finally, I want to significantly improve the waterproofing in my entire bathroom, including the walls. Any recommendations on this?
I think a better way of sealing the tub flange is to use a banding and seal it to the tub flange with the backer board sealant. This same sealant can be used to seal in-between the bathtub and uncoupling membrane and elsewhere.
Also, the banding can be used to cover the uncoupling membrane seams and flashed up the wall if you really want to waterproof your floor well.
ive used it and it was great. make sure you ware gloves
Do you have a video of the tile install?
I do not but that is one that I would like to put together
What other products can I use and adhere on GoBoard for a shower? I really would like to avoid heavy tile since I'm doing an RV wet room. FRP? etc Thanks for any insight.
I don't know of anything specifically except for tile. You'd probably have to check with their tech department.
I cannot find the GoBoard sealant outside of a kit. Can you recommend a place to order the sealant or an alternative that I could find at my local Lowes/HD/Menards?
On my website, I have a link to GoBoard's alternative sealants and a list. www.diytileguy.com/goboard-tile-backer/
@@DIYTileGuy Do, you happen to remember about how many tubes it took to do the shower in this video?
@@zuul2591 I wondered same thing. I see someone else recommended 1 tube per sheet. I use PLS40 sealant and also get 1 tube of PL glue as a liquid shim where required.
How come you don’t use the flat 1 1/4 washers designed for that board?
They're not required and I don't care for the washers with Goboard. They don't really suck in like they do with cement-coated foam boards. I prefer the bigger-headed Goboard screws. There are situations where you need the washers, though.
Do you use any type of flashing between the tube or shower floor to the GoBoard or do you just use the 1/8 spacing and sealant? What are those gray strips you placed on the 2x4 for the GoBoard to rest on. Great video. Thank you
My guess is like drywall shims. In the event your board doesn’t sit flush with studs.
ALSO, ONE MORE QUESTION : What compound or adhesive do you use to secure the tile to the GoBoard ? Will thin set work ?
Yes, thinset should be used. Not premixed but the cement kind that you mix with water. It should meet ANSI 118.4 or better. www.diytileguy.com/which-thinset-to-use-infographic/
Professional job. Thanks for sharing.
What are the gray straps on your studs? Why don't you mention them?
Drywall shims for flattening the walls
Did you use any particular kind of mesh around the tub? Very good video
I used alkaline resistant mesh tape. The best way is to to use the fabric that the company makes
thank you
How long after adding sealant to install the tiles
The sealant is usually dry by the next day
Installed the GoBoard just like you, I noticed that the area between the studs at the edge of the board, has a little play in it. Is this acceptable?
Yes, there will be a little bit of flex. GoBoard is better than many foam boards, in my opinion. Wedi is the best in terms of stiffness. You can always put blocking behind the seams if it's something that you are concerned about but I've found it to be quite stout once the tile is installed.
I guess don't go with small tiles. I been putting backer where I can but in some areas (vent pipe) I couldn't put backer other than the standard 16" span for the studs.... This is my first time doing GoBoard so used to cement backer board. I am going with a larger Subway so hopefully it strenghens up. @@DIYTileGuy
What is covering the studs?
You can cover the studs DIRECTLY with the GoBoard. No Plastic or membrane needed Don't follow the video. Put a bead of sealant on ALL the edges of the GoBoard as you install it and use a 2" putty knife to smooth it out. Use butt joints in the corners, (you'll only need to caulk one of the edges). Use sealant on the transition from the goboard to the drywall/green board that covers the rest of the room. And over all your screws. It really is that simply. No taping, no waterproof membranes, no redgard, etc etc.
Drywall shims for flattening the walls prior to installing the GoBoard. You can get them at any hardware store like Lowes or Home Depot in the drywall section.
Can you use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade?
That should work just fine
how long did you wait to start tiling? Are you waiting for the sealant to cure or just skim? I used the loctite polyurethane concrete and masonry sealant vs the goboard sealant and it takes longer to skim and cure so I am wondering at what point I can go ahead and start tiling. Did you do two coats of the sealant or was one plenty?
I did one coat of the sealant and I wait until it's not tacky anymore. Usually, that's the next day but I have used one that took two days to cure. I don't remember which product it was though.
Where did you get the long shims that the go board goes into to cover over the tub flange?
Drywall shims in the drywall section of the hardware store
nice job
Thanks!
thanks for sharing. Is the screw the drywall screw? Or the Goboard has their own screws?
GoBoard has their own screws but you can also use cement board screws
Can someone tell me what type of backing / tape is stapled to the studs prior to installing the Go board ?
Those are drywall shims for flattening out the wall prior to installing the backer board. You can find them in the drywall section of your local home improvement store.
Could it be used to finish the garage walls ?
If you're not tiling over it then drywall is a better fire stopper
What are those thin strips on some of the studs? Why are they there?
Those are drywall shims. I use them to get the walls flat prior to installing backer board
Why would you waterproof the GO Board when it states right on the board that it is waterproof?
You waterproof the edges and penetrations of the board which it states to do right in the instructions
@@DIYTileGuy I thought that's what the tube of JM sealant was for?
Can you glue tub surround onto GoBoard?
in this video he left a gap between the tub surround and the go board then used sealant and a mesh tape to make the difference. I shimmed my studs for perfect level and then it was enough to overcome the difference the tub surround makes so i covered the surround with the go board. Left like 1/8 of an inch so it wasnt sitting right on the surround and used the sealant in the gap. Many others on youtube do it this way and it makes sense if you alrdy have to shim studds for level
How many tubes of goboard sealant did you use for surround tub/shower ?
I would figure 1 tube per sheet and then add a couple of extra on to the total. So If you are installing 5 sheets then buy 7 tubes.
Good question and I forgot to mention this in the video.
So with these boards you don't have to paint a waterproof membrane like Redgard. I prompt response would be appreciated as I'm doing a walk-in shower soon and still deciding this over cement board? Thanks 👍
No. The board itself is waterproof. One of the advantages of foam boards.
Good to see other companies vying for the same audience. I’ve looked at more videos on different systems and I get overwhelmed. Glad I’m doing my homework. Simple question. I love that, what appears to be your own makeshift straightedge for cutting the GoBoard that keeps your fingers away from the blade. What is that? I bought a piece of flat stock aluminum from Grainger. A heck of a lot less pricey than buying a product that is specifically designated and sold as a straight edge either from the big box stores, or Amazon or the like. Thanks.
What I'm using for a straight edge is an "L" screed. You can buy them in a kit and a lot of tile setters have them. amzn.to/2Rn9xDP
How many tubes of sealant did you use?
I'd figure a tube does 2 sheets. Then add another tube for anything else like a bench, niche, membrane, etc. Then add a couple of extra.
I can see this being far superior then Schluter's product
It's another product that accomplishes the same goal. I found this product to be more rigid and simpler to install but Kerdi board has it's fans as well.
I have never used this product. Looks good though. Is it guaranteed? Schlueter comes with a 10 year guarantee!
@@michaelhorn9114 - yes they have a 10 year warranty as well!
why wouldnt the goboard go directly over the flange and butt closer to the top of the tub vs on top of the flange?
Depends on the flange and the situation. Some flanges are too thick. On this one, I had one side that wasn't up tight to the wall.
Why didn't you seal around the mixing valve and pipe penetrations?
I talked about that in the video. Penetrations will get pipe seals and that valve will be sealed around also
Schlueter has covers for ALL PIPES AND VALVES! SCHLUETER IS THE BEST!
Do you think using Red guard or similar product is overkill or unnecessary?
There's a method where you fill the seams with thinset mortar and mesh tape rather than sealant. If you follow this method then you can apply Redgard over the thinset seams. If you're not using this method then Redgard, or any liquid waterproofing, is not advisable.
Does the goboard go over the lip of the tub or shower pan, or does it just butt up against the top of the lip?
It can go either way. It depends on the tub and the situation.
@@DIYTileGuy So if you do it your way, do you just let the tile hang down past the bottom of the Goboard with no support? thanks
@@robertsirovatka4542 By the time the flange is sealed with sealant there isn't a lot of space. But I add additional mortar to fill in any void
Can you use goboard over a wood curb instead of durock? Thx.
Yes
@@DIYTileGuy not a good idea its a foam product.
Did you insulate first?????
So no sealant at the top where the goboard meets the ceiling drywall?
Above the shower head doesn't need to be waterproofed.
so do you just use joint compound and paper tape for the ceiling to goboard joints?
@@spencer.jacobs I don’t think it’s necessary. I caulked the tile to ceiling/drywall joint, then painted the caulk. Use paintable caulk I used quad max. Been 2 years and it’s held up perfect. Use blue tape to keep lines clean.
Caulking there will be PLENTY enough protection so as to not allow water to seep behind wall. It’s also mostly for aesthetic reasons you caulk that joint since hardly any water gets up there anyways. Probably more condensation/steam than anything so the caulk is sufficient; nothing needed for backerboard/ceiling joint.
Why was what looks like foam strips used on the wall studs?
Those are drywall shims to flatten out the walls
What's there an alternative to the go board sealant. I saw someone in another video using a locktite polyurethane sealant. The go board brand is $16 a pop.
I've used that in the past or if you don;t mind the expense try some 3M 4200 or 5200 marine adhesives.
On my website, I have the GoBoard alternative sealant list. You can also find it on GoBoard's website. I believe GoBoard offers a longer warranty with their sealant. www.diytileguy.com/goboard-tile-backer/
@@DIYTileGuy thanks, looks like Goboard has a list of approved sealants they recommend. I ended up using "Fuze it" by liquid nails. That stuff is super sticky and feels like rubber when it dries.
How do you get the fiberglass dust out of your clothes?
For me, just washing them works. But I'm not super-sensitive to it
Itchy AF!
do you not put the go board over the bathtub flange? i have not done this before so any advice would be helpful
It can go either way. It's not always practical to drop the board down over the flange. But do it if you are able to.
I just took a rabbeting bit on my router, and relieved about 2" so go board sits flush to flange. @@DIYTileGuy
What is the gray "shim tape" that you are using?
If you're talking about on the studs they are drywall shims and you can get them in the drywall section of your local home improvement store
I thought the installation requires the fasteners screws to be 8” apart as the dots on the go board shows for best results? You did 6” fine vertically but, horizontally 16” on center?
You can only fasten where there is backing and standard stud spacing is 16 inches. This complies with GoBoard's instructions.
So I have multiple distances between studs in my shower for whatever reason. Should I screw the board in every 8 inches if that's where a stud happens to fall or just do every 16 inches so it's all even?
I went ahead and added the extra studs in the shower instead of screwing to the 16” on center. The cost and work was minimal. The go board is light and I felt better hanging all that tile on the board.
16 inches is fine but that's the maximum spacing. If you have distances wider than that then some additional blocking would be necessary.
8” inches for their fasteners. 12” for their screw/washers
What kind of thin set can I use to set tile on Goboard ? Modified or unmodified?
Modified! The good stuff!
im trying to build a divider for my van. would this stand on its own if I used brakets? also , is it sturdy enough for me to install sconces on it? sconces will weight about 3 lbs each . i wil install 2
I don't think the edges of this stuff would work very well if they are exposed in your van. For sconces, typically the cans will mount on a stud or a spreader bar so it's not the board that would hold them up. However, if your trying to use a remodel box then your going to want a style that will grab as much surface area behind the board as possible.
Well you could add more studs like I did. What a waste. I listened to the tile store where I purchased the board. Obviously, JM would know. Thanks for reply .
Can you use red guard and fiber tape on go board?
Yes, if you don't want to use the sealant
How do I transition between drywall and thw goboard? Use mesh tape? Also the transition to the ceiling?
Yes. Use mesh tape, fill the gap with thinset mortar, and tile over that connection. The ceiling you can just butt into but you'll want to leave a small gap between the tile and the ceiling.
@@DIYTileGuy the tile will not go to the ceiling but stop shy about 2 to 3 inches. Also the tile will stop shy by about the same 2 to 3 inches on the front and back walls of the stall. I used drywall compound in both spots for painting it. Love the GoBoard ! Kind of itchy when cutting it though.
I wouldn't use drywall compound if the tile covers it but if you do then you'll want to paint primer over the compound before you tile
@@DIYTileGuy do I use the caulk for the ceiling transition or should I use drywall mud?