SIMPLE ONE TOOL CABINET DOORS - DIY Shaker Doors Part 6
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- It's the last door making method of the series. This option is super simple for painted doors and drawers, it can also be done using nothing but a saw, glue and sandpaper, so could be done with minimal tools/budget.
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![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](/img/1.gif)
I'm going to jump in here and beat the comments I imagine will follow! 😂 Yes I used other tools.... but as described, you really need nothing but a saw, (plus glue and sandpaper) to make a basic door this way. 👍 However you do it, just have a go... and stay safe. 👍
Hello, planning to use this method to build shaker doors. My question is, I am planning to use solid wood. Is it better to use MDF or solid wood is fine? Thank you!
@@ShahrirIdzuan main trouble is that real wood expands and contracts in a different way and less stable than MDF. Probably better to keep it a loose panel if solid wood I think.
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you so much for your reply. You got a new subscriber as well. I will take note on that.
If you make the styles and rails a little over width say 3mm each, you can then trim the edges with your table saw at the end to get them perfect which requires less sanding, good channel and good work. Keep it up 👍
Brilliant channel, I was searching for a simple DIY shaker door for ages and found your channel really easy to understand, very handy safety tips, very comprehensive from start to finish and very to-the-point without all the 'waffle' that some content creators use.
Thanks very much, excellent channel ✔️🤗👍🏻👍🏼👍🏾👍🔨🪛🧰⚒️👷🏼♂️🪛👷♂️🧰👷🏽♂️🔨👷🏼♂️
Just my 2p worth.
If this was a one off job with euro hinges, you could (and I have) use a hole saw to drill out the hinge holes in the 12mm before attaching the 6mm.
Saves having to get a boring bit that may never get used again.
Brilliant! Have the boring bit, but still seems much easier since you don’t have to judge the depth
I’ve used this method loads of times. I got all the strips cut at B&Q, then cut the panels & strips to length. So easy & effective.
What hinges did you use?
@@jfoley5 kitchen door hinges.
Making lockdown bearable. Cheers Tim
wow easiest way i've seen so far for making shaker doors. Thanks
I love the fact that you've shown multiple methods for this! It makes me feel like I can try the more basic version, then eventually build up to the more complicated methods once I've expanded my toolkit and have more time! Could I use 12mm chipboard instead of MDF (for a place which gets minimal humidity)? I love this video because it doesn't make me feel like a cheat for using this method. Instead it inspires me to try this, then something else!
Really very useful methods to build shaker door, after this video I will start my fist DIY project of building wardrobe in my house..
Thanks alot for sharing knowledge and experience..
As you say it is a bit of a cheats method but the effect when painted will be good. I will be interested to see the spray painting.
Cool video it was really entertaining.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
Very helpful tips and all for free. Thank you, definitely worthy of subscribing, just for shear helpfulness and not a sanitised pro doing DIY.
Nice work mate. Looking forward to seeing video about different types of hinges to use. Thanks.
So simple. Great videos. Thank you
Love it !!! Loveeee it ! That was awesome!!!! Easy and effective
Hey, it's been awhile, but I was wondering if you have ever had any issues with warping during/after glue-up with this method?
I have enjoyed this mini series, thanks for sharing
Always wondered what those gaps in the speed square are for! 4:25
Brilliant job.....I can see a DIY job coming up.....thanks for the ideas
Nicely done I wish I was as good at woodwork
B&Q does 15 panel saw cuts per board for free which is more than enough for most people to get a good help on with a project or two, especially if you first of all use a cut list app that calculates your cut list into a specified panel size which you can then show to the panel saw operator.
Not sure if still available at the moment though?
@@TheRestorationCouple no, unfortunately not. Just under normal circumstances.
Me gustó mucho la manera tan sencilla y práctica de hacer este tipo de Puertas....la pregunta,es: ¿que medidas son recomendables?. mdf 3/4" y 1/4"?. Lo que daría 1" de espesor de la puerta....sería mejor utilizar mdf 5/8" y 1/ 4" respectivamente?.... agradeceré alguna sugerencia.....gracias. Saludos desde San Luis Río Col. Son. Mexico....
Nice
I recall you saying in a video a short time back you would be using the van to go away in about 3 or 4 weeks. How drastically things change for us!
Crazy isn’t it. I must try and finish it though so we can hopefully get away at some point this year. 🤞
Did this for a cupboard in our entrance hall, although we used 18mm and 12mm for the stiles and rails. They’re big, chunky doors (probably too chunky for a kitchen, etc) but they haven’t warped in the last year and they take a battering from all the use
Good stuff. Bet they were heavy too!
Yep, we used 4 cup (euro) hinges per door!
Got some more to make for our bathroom but thinking I might knock up the router table you showed and give the loose tenon method a go. They’re going to be painted so solid wood panels seem like a waste and I don’t have a bandsaw (yet) to resaw them myself either
Great v useful thanks!
Definitely doing this! Great video!! New subbie!!
Hi. Thanks for the video. I know you have probably explained this in other videos but what paint do you use in your sprayer?
Great idea thanks!!! :)
Thanks for the video! What type of sealer did you use on the MDF?
excelent!!! my method.
Would be interested to know what you feel the best way to hang these doors as im a little concerned the MDF not holding up well to certain hinges
Concealed euro/cup hinges are the way for these type of doors.
Ryan @thelondoncraftsman (well worth checking out his channel) makes all his commercial doors like this, only exception being a micro round over on all edges to soften the look. TBH it’s the most straightforward method, but once painted, I can’t really see any issues with it. Why make life more complicated than it needs to be?!
I'll take a look. I did use a roundover in the router table on all the doors before painting which worked well. 👍
Axminster do an edge breaker router bit which is pretty good. Not quite a roundover but just a minimalist radius to take that sharp edge off
www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-edge-breaker-router-cutter-set-4-105925
@@TheRestorationCouple Have you done a video on painting? I'm looking at do my kitchen once i can get the materials.
Always a dam good vlog
Hi, I'm thinking of using this method in my camper build i was wondering if you thought it would work as well with ply?
Plywood will not give a smooth grain free finish. Also, mdf is more stable meaning there will be no shifting, swelling, shrinking as wood does. I just need to find the moisture resistant mdf and I will be a cabinet door making fool!
I've seen doors which had 45° chamfered all-round rails & stiles INCLUDING the joints , making them stand out & it actually looks good !
What you find is that sticking material to only one side the 12mm is then out of balance and will tend to bow towards the side your sticking the 6mm to especially on tall doors
Trouble with that construction is they will warped eventually in time I find. But moisture resistant mdf helps and tension bars for long and wide doors helps also
Yeah, I checked this one earlier as its been sat on the side for a few days, it's a couple of mm over the length but ill probably stick three hinges to avoid future issues. Should be ok with a smaller door like this I hope, (they also get pretty heavy if you were to do wardrobes this way.)
Great, that’s the way I am going to go. What equipment and paint do you use on the mdf
Hello nice cabinets doors, but just one question, do you sand while the glue is still wet?
I was wondering this myself. It appears that while sanding when the glue is still wet it fills in with sawdust as well making almost like a wood filler type of product.
If you sand when the glue is wet it will create more time for beer intake.
I used this way for some under stairs doors/drawer faces. The only issue I have is that over a few months they have all warped. I have had a quick look online and this is likely due to the warm house one side and the cold under stairs the other. Going to try with 18mm and a 3mm strips. Any advice on avoiding the warping/bending would be great...
Thanks in advance
Great series
Were yours painted when they warped ??
Someone else here said they'll warp if you use pva glue ...
I wonder if a ply panel & mdf rails/stiles would be an option ?
The best way is to use the loose tenon method, but you could try planting on both sides to balance it. Also if painting you need to paint both sides at the same time, not just one side and leaving it, to avoid warping
Thanks for the replies. Yes they were all sealed with an mdf sealer, then an acrylic primer and finally a satin finish. I was thinking about placing strips on the back to add a bit of structural strength.
Or maybe I’ll go with ply...
Any reason not to just make frames with pocket holes and then put some brad nails through a piece on the back that covers all the pocket holes? Is it just the downside of the thicker reveal? I can live with that haha. I want to stain my face frame and paint the mdf board so putting nails in the front is a bit off putting although I think with a dark stain it wouldnt show too bad.
Hej
I was doing the front of the kitchen cabinets based on your video. I have one problem, cuz I did 3 till now and 2 of them have bent and I don't know where I made the mistake.
Have you experienced sth like this? Maybe I have put too much glue and when it was drying it has fastened the material and bent it ?
I've been told it's because its only laminated on one side.
Yes another nice looking door again, but I still prefer your loose tenon method. Has anybody noticed recently how MDF quality is quite variable. When trying to finish the cut edges, it can be quite fibrous. I've been forced into resorting to use Polyfiller. This has to be smoothed in, rubbed down and primed, before painting.
@@cmbespoke3699 Thanks for the info. I actually have some beaded MR MDF offcuts left over from my bathroom makeover. I think I'll pop down the shed and check those cut edges for smoothness. . .
We dilute a clear, water based, varnish with white spirit and paint that on the edges (before any sanding) and leave it to dry, sand the edges, prime the whole thing, light sanding then 2 or 3 coats. Seems to help with the edge fibres
What size brads have you used when pinning together please
I want to make like these but also I need a few with glass insert. How to make those?
Is that a Swanson speed square? It's really hard to find a metric square that actually is square
One tool, try 37, I counted frame by frame, with that said still a nice door. Much more time needed to make doors this way however. God Bless
I’ve used this method years ago. Unfortunately the door bows if you use pva glue on non moisture resistant mdf? Great channel 👍👍👍
Hi sliver fox, I want to use this method but I want to do it with oak veneer MDF, as you will see the grain through the paint,
What adhesive would you recommend
R D evo stick contact adhesive would be good for that buddy 👍👍
@@silverfox8801 hi Silver Fox, would you recommend a glue to use for 12 & 6 mm MDF that would not result in a bow? I'm looking to do this for my kitchen.... started with 18mm rail & stile with 6mm insert, imagine the above process is much faster however.... but need to be sure they won't bow.... thanks in advance for your advice.
@@TS-uk8gz use moisture resistant mdf buddy and it should be fine👍👍
Could you do the same for external doors on a binstore? Out of plywood?
Possibly but I would probably trim the edge of plywood with some solid wood too if exposed. But if painted then could be fine.
Would OSB work or ply? MDF is so then
Worth bearing in mind where the hinges are going if you're pinning it like this. Tidy job Tim.
Good point. I’ll find out later! 😳
@@TheRestorationCouple hit one and it ruins a drill bit... don't ask me how I know this!
Rob Hall fortunately I put a mini metal detecting pen on my Christmas list, perhaps this will be a good chance to try it out. 👍
Are you using 15mm nails in this video?
I'm thinking about doing this to my kitchen cupboard doors that are existing, have you tried that before.
Marc Ross I’ve refurbished a kitchen by changing all the doors using this method. Go to the diy store & get all the strips cut & the rest is easy.
How do you find the ryobi nailer?
Nice work, what gauge nailer do you use?
18g, that’s all I have though. 👍
Why did you not just use mitre fast instead of pva? Instant strong bond, no clamps or nails.
Too easy. My only concern is the durability of MDF edges. Wonder if some 18mm edge banding is worth it ?
European hinges are great.
What type of sealer and paint do you use?
For primer I use Zinsser BIN or recently I started using Zinsser all coat multi surface primer which is easier to work with and equally good sealer for mdf and other surfaces. Then coat in a good quality hard wearing paint like Tikkurila Helmi.
Did you just fill the nail holes with PVA?
Yeah, was just experimenting. The nailer sets them only a hair below the surface so wanted to see if glue and sanding would do the job. Worked pretty well, did a bit of filler here and there when I painted too.
@@TheRestorationCouple I think a nail gun will have to be on my shopping list. Thanks for the reply. Can't wait for the next video. I'm gradually working my way back through your previous projects. Really enjoying them.
Mark
I’ve used this method several times and each time the doors warped!!
Coz doors are now out of balance. Think you'd need to glue 6mm strips onto both sides of a 6mm middle panel in order to stop it warping.
gary hudson
I moved on from that method now, too many problems. Groved stiles and rails with a separate panel from now on👍🏻
@@66journeyman hi Wayne, i've just started a project to re-door my kitchen, was planning on using 18mm groved stiles and rails with a 6mm insert - is that what you're referring to? Is this a stronger style door instead of gluing 6mm on top of 12mm? Thanks in advance for your advice.
@@TS-uk8gz Yes, that’s correct👍🏻I always groove the rails and stiles now, too many issues with glueing 6mm to 12mm.
I use 22mm and 9mm panels on kitchen doors though, just that bit more robust. Good luck
Did you use normal mdf? (Not the blue moisture resistant stuff?)
6 videos to make shaker doors...lol..your good at making koney
Home depot and lowes tracksaws are terrible i would never let them make any finish cut period
“One tool” 😂😂😂
Shut up and work!!