HOW TO: Epoxy Weld Beads for 1/35 Tanks (Single Bevel Groove Welds)
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2019
- Weld seams or weld beads or just welds are one of the most important details on armor models. Because if you think about it, every tank is made from thick steel plates welded together (except those archaic riveted tanks of course).
Therefore I believe a well recreated weld detail can add lots of authenticity to our miniature replicas. There are many welding techniques used by armor modellers: lead wire, stretched sprue or epoxy putty to name a few. From my experience the best results can be obtained using two-part epoxy putty.
Unfortunately, bad welds can ruin the entire model and let's be honest, this technique isn't the easiest and takes a bit of practice to get it right. I hope this video will help you to become a better scale welder!
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Do you add welds to your models?
If yes, which technique/material do you prefer?
I usually like using styrene rod, but I find the Archer resin weld transfers to be extremely useful for long and straight welds between panels! Though I'm sure you know this :D
Yes. And exactly the same Tamiya putty
@@Panzermeister36 I tried styrene rod once and wasn't pleased with the result. It was too massive and I found it hard to add texture to it. Maybe I used an overly thick rod or something... actually it was quarter rod, I bought that specifically for that task, to wedge it into the gap and just add texture. Didn't work for me though. Those Archers seem very nice and I think they'd work great on photo-etched details.
@@rossomachin Ah, another man of culture!
I've used styrene rod with decent results. The only thing I don't like about that is if you go too heavy with the extra thin it gets gooey, messy and is hard to recover from. That's why I pretty much use Apoxie putty now, more control and better results IMO.
Welder here,
In WW2 they used stick welders, So welding direction makes a diffrence.
Which means they would weld on horizontal places from Left to Right.
And on Vertical places from Bottom to Top.
Keep this in mind when pressing the C shape into the puddy, ( C facing the direction you are going ) So when you flip the tank make sure to "weld" into the same direction. ( left to right)
For a more realistic/accurate look always stick to these weld directions..
Extra:
Left to Right on the horizontal is for right handed welders
And back in the day welders were taught to weld with the right hand only.
Hope this helps
I'm not sure if they would have had 7018 back then, but I would think they would have been going uphand, as better penetration would be important on a tank, so you'd want those "C's" to be "U's" on any vertical welds. But on every WW2 vehicle I've ever seen the welds like like garbage or chicken shit haha.
IN WORLD WAR II IT DIDN’T MATTER!!! THEY ONLY WANTED MASS PRODUCTION.
and then there is some guy who knows in which direction the tanks in ww2 was welded.
Where is the face of the "C"? Is the facing like the bulb first or the open end first?
@@AKKK1182open end facing right or up
I don't even do models and I'm here watching this
You should enter the hobby, it's very relaxing and rewarding!
@@unteroffitzierschultz4288 One day I will probably, and it's cool as heck, specially when you know about the vehicle
@@StarNostrum A good rule of thumb is to buy older or less expensive kits when starting. No point in getting a $50 model only to botch it and be unhappy!
Haha me too... I want to start tho... When I can fit it into my budget
No one:
Night Shift: "Just lick your tools.."
I do Warhammer 40k minis and I'm here. Honestly I'm starting to become interested in apply these sorts of things to my models. Give them a more realistic feel I guess.
Hi, not a model maker but someone who found you channel while trawling for some late night viewing. Just to say that you make a very good job!
Just found you on RUclips, after I seen it on Instagram. This is insane, thanks for the tutorials to improve my models! Well done mate, keep going..
Thank you, there's so much more where this came from!
As a welder I think you have captured this craft very well.
Wow, thanks a lot!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm a welder too and I'm amazed how your welds look. And, in 8:50, when you said that you don't need to scrape a channel in tight corners, well, thas how welding works(with thin materials, of course)
Edit: BTW, I saw once a T-34/'76 with porosity and cracks in welds. Probably welded by a guy with few hours of practice. Later production armor, after '43, had better quality.
19 yrs as a welder and most in a shipyard, my only suggestion is your lifting eye pads on the undersides, general rule of thumb is the height of the fillet bead is 1/3 the materials thickness, so a 3 inch thick piece of steel is goin to have 1 inch high and wide weld bead
@@NinjaMG I'm not even a welder but early T-34s look painfully amateurish. The bead looks like a pile of gravel instead of a bead and hell, there's holes between plates all over.
Thanks! I have been modeling for many years now, and I can always learn something new and pick up different techniques. Good stuff.
Just found this channel and watched a few videos. I love how you show an explaine what you are doing in a simple easy to understand way.
I've came back to this video several times over these past weeks. Thanks so much for your tutorials.
I'm a welder who has had some experience with military vehicles. I'm continually blown away how close the preparation for real welding can mirror what you're doing. Like when you weld butt joint- plate welding, you would be wise to add a groove to fill with weld metal for a more complete weld. But the fillet welds, ( like with the tie-down ears) you don't have to add a groove. You just follow the joint where the parts being welded touch each other.
Man, everytime you put out a new video i get so excited and motivated!
Lol, thanks, that's my mission!
Your tutorials are very very helpful, even i am 40 years a modeler already. Cheers from Germany
Very nice technique and no real expense or fancy tools.
...AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks " Uncle Night Shift"...this was very HELPFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Thank you for making this video! I am getting into building 1/16 scale German armor & details such as weld seams are a necessary detail for larger models. I tried to make my own using putty, styrene rod & Milliput but all my results were total failures. I cant wait to try weld seams again using your techniques. Your tutorial was very detailed & excellent!
PetervanHorne - Thank you Martin, this tutorial will help me tremendously.
Great job. I'm inspired to take my builds to the next level. These videos are very well done and professional. I know how time consuming that is so a big thumbs up dude. You're the man.
Thanks a lot! Glad you like them!
Wow you guys put so much detail into these
You really make great tutorials! Keep up the very good work! :)
And it would be super nice if all your tutorials where demonstrated on that same model. That way all elements slowly comes together to a finished tank!
I used this method to create the weld lines on a Sherman Turret and it worked great. The only thing I did a little different was let the epoxy set for a while before rolling it out into thin lines. I found it easier to roll and apply this way. Other than that, you instructions were followed to the letter. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to you videos. Thanks again - Joe
the bloopers are great i love this channel
Fantastic work, thank you
Awesome tutorials. I`m glad I found this channel.
And I'm glad to hear that! Thank you!
I THINK that the "Welds" and "Texturing" REALLY Make them LOOK Like they were made from Metal and look "Heavier" even BEFORE they are painted!
I LOVE that one pic of the Rusty German Tank. THAT thing just looks like a BEAST!
Nicely Done Martin! :D
Thanks again Martin! With each video I learn something new, although I knew about this technique for a long time I still managed to get two hints from this that will hopefully help with my next build. Time to open up a box with some heavy, heavy tank with thick plates ;)
Oh yes YES! Heavy tanks are the most delightful to weld :) That Maus I showed in this video was my first serious attempt at welding. Because it's just a plain brick with almost no surface detail, it was the perfect exercise in welding. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Another great guide! I'm looking forward to trying this out.
Thanks Martin, this video help a lot to put more detail in our models, thanks!
Always glad to help!
Great thanks man! This is very helpful, too much informative!
Thanks!
I think that this is the first time I've seen your channel, and this video is full of good, useful information - and the reasons why, which can be just as important. I also like your cheerful voice and affable manner. Thanks for your work, I will subscribe right away ! !
Thanks a lot and welcome!
Still waiting on a tutorial for the weld seam tool =P
I second this
all in favor say i
He made a weld seam tool here=ruclips.net/video/cUUbAPBu5Yc/видео.html Then go to 13:37 and he shows a Weld Seam tool where he makes it.
@@MrSwarovsk1 I caught it and made a couple. ThanX Alex.
Thanks for showing us how to make a better model, a Lorne so match from you 👍
I've never made a single model in my life and I'm binge watching these
Awesome video, and channel. I have a much better understanding of the processes. Than you.
super awesome video, thanks for making this!!
Thank you!
Brilliant, thanks for posting
Fantastic tutorial bud 👍 very clean and neat job, for sure I'll "borrow" some or your techniques. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks!
Awesome! Thanks so much for this. Great stuff!!
It's very interesting the level of detail and the insight you apply here. Cheers for the video bud :-)
That's amazing. Thanks for the lessson
Super helpful video thanks
Awesome again man! I really love your style. Those tips for welds are brilliant, I've never thought to scribe a channel into the plastic... so simple and effective. I generally use Aves Apoxie sculpt to make weld beads but I would use a cuticle pusher to make the weld marks. I need to rig up one of those fancy pokers you use. Thanks for the great advice and always entertaining content.
Scribing weld lines is really important. It can be annoying at times when the surface is littered with small details or you just don't have enough room to properly line up the ruler. I think Adam Wilder also uses Apoxie putty.
Thanks for the tip. I do cars and this is still applicable when doing welds on the floor pans. I’ve never trie to reproduce the welds because I didn’t know how. Thanks again.
I'm sooooo happy I found you man!
I LOVE that nasty hack LMAO definitely my style lol
HeHe Balls! Great tutorial Martin! I really appreciate the effort you put into these. Very informative.
Yoooo I still need to make a video about those multiple-pass Soviet-style welds you asked about!
looking forward to that one.
The Mans a Demon..great interesting topic.
Nice detail enjoyed tutorial.
Wow! Good humor too! Subscribed.
Very interesting and entertaining
Nicely done video!
Using the sheets of styrene to roll out the epoxy spaghetti for a weld line is a superb idea. For so many years I've been using epoxy putty and never thought of that.
I wish I could show some modelers the weld jobs I've seen on T-34s.
T-34s and IS-2s are a gold mine for gnarly welds
I used to see the T-34s and other Soviet tanks at Aberdeen and Ft. Knox. The welds were just flipping ugly! You could look at the T-34s and walk a few steps to compare the welds with those on Jagdpanthers and other tanks. Oh, well... T-34s did exactly what they were built for.
Fantastic video and channel. Thanks for sharing with us, subbed and inspired!
Thanks a million times!
Some great info here! New Sub!!
I just across your channel. This was a great video! Thanks!
Glad you like it, thank you too!
Same sized balls are a good thing. 😀 Great tutorial again. 👌
BALLST!
Hi Martin.
Hope you had a great Christmas.
Thank you for your great videos throughout last year, all very good.
You make the “Epoxy Weld Beads” look so easy, I tried yesterday for the 1st time, and this stuff ended up stuck on the ceiling, my face, and even the cat, and I don’t have a cat…. :-)
In the end I got it 90% worked out, and it looks good.
Warm regards, Steve
love ur videos!!!
Thanks mate!!
Great video.
Thanks!
Thank you!!!!
Thank you too!
Just stumbled across your videos :D awesome work my friend
Thank you!
Great tutorial as allways!
I am using extra fine Milliput, but it's really hard to work with in 1/72 scale. I should give a try to that tamiya putty. 🤔
Aaaand I am waiting for that weld type video you've mentioned!
It's worth the time!😉
Thanks! Not a big fan of Milliput, always found it hard to work with no matter the scale. I think stretched sprues are very good for replicating welds in 1/72. But again depending on the subject I could imagine doing a few welds with putty even in small scales.
Díky Martine! Opravdu nádherná videa a illustrace různých technik a triků. Hezky se to poslouchá a je to velmi naučné...i pro letadýlkáře jako já ;)
Ďakujem Honzo! Zvárané lietadlo, to som veru ešte nevidel, máš šancu rozvíriť divokú diskusiu medzi lietadielkármi :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels To asi ano :) "To tu ještě nebylo! Svařované letadlo..." Ještě jednou díky moc a těším se na další videa...
Great video! I wonder If you are going to upload the paint job on that Maus. Definitely something I want to see! As I'm not a modeler myself I find more interesting to watch the build of the whole model more than just the techniques... Anyway, I just found your channel and I've already watched all your videos! Keep up the good content!
I build race cars with tube frames. You just made life better. Thanks.
I hope it works as well as you make it look lol.
Awesome video, subbed and hit the bell.
Enjoyed your explanations and examples.
Great video! This is a very helpful demonstration. Thanks!
Thanks Jon!
I'm honestly amazed I've never thought of this. I don't do a lot of armour models, and when I do it's usually 40k stuff, so my first instinct is always to grab the epoxy and *smooth out* lines and mismatched joints, not turn them into welds. I know what I'm doing from now on though. I've never even thought about it!
There you go! 😁
great Video
great work eep going
Thanks!
Your awesome!!!!!
Nah, YOU are awesome!
Thems some delicious lookin welds, bubba
Thanks mate ... nice tutorial :-) ... greetings make*
Glad you enjoyed!
God mode = Activated : ) Great tips, thank!!!
Thanks!! :)
As usual, super interesting. For Canadians modelers information, I went to my local hobby shop to get some two-part Tamiya epoxy putty. I was told it is no longer available in Canada due to its chemical composition. (Don't have the details and I haven't double checked that info). I guess it's only a matter of getting it online but I thought I'd pass the info.
The guy told me Milliput was the recommended replacement, a claim I find highly doubtful. Judging from the video, I'd say the Green Stuff Green putty looks to be closer in composition and handling.
Interesting info!
You're right with your assumptions. Milliput creates noticeably different results if you use it to sculpt pretty much anything. I don't know, never was a fan of it. Magic Sculpt is also very different and I only use it for stowage, but not anymore for welds. I guess the main difference is how Tamiya is "rubbery" and flexible while those other two are more "stiff" so to say. I don't know, Tamiya just has a better texture.
Yes, please make a little tutorial about your welding tool
Nice ! ;)
Another Fantastic video :) - I'm still using Magicsculpt for tarps have yet to find something that beats it.
Will definetly be ordering the Tamiya Variant to try out.
Oh yes, Magic Sculpt is is also my favorite for tarps, sandbags and other stowage-related stuff. Don't do those quite often, but when I do, MS is the best choice.
Interesting. I might have to try it this way. I usually just cut a sliver of styrene and use Tamiya extra thin to melt it then use a dental tool to build the "roll of coins" effect of a proper weld.
That's an interesting technique, quite similar to stretched sprue. I should try it one day!
Can you make a video about that poking/welding tool because when i try to craft it the tip is so big and inaccurate?
Thanks
-Andrew
I would like to see how you shaped the soda can tin piece before gluing it to the tooth pick.
If you're not sure, you could probably get a cheap fountain pen, pull the metal nib off and stick that on a cocktail stick/toothpick
@@MerryMac1000 I had a look at those many seem to have squared off ends, or it's kinda like a small spherical shape on the end.
here's a quick tip that might seem very obvious, but might be missed through over-thinking: a "weld" that is a bit too big is better than one that is too small, because one that is too big you can wait for it to dry and then cut/sand away any excess.
Yet it seems like nobody is doing that because what I see all the time are oversized welds and not a single one that might be too small.
Plastic sprues, but if you say that one box of tamiya epoxy can last for a few years, I think i'll give it a try. I have in mind a KV-1 early type from Eastern Express to try on.
As always, great video)) Even if you'll make a 10min tutorial about this highly engineered tool it will be worth to see XD
Yes, it will last for a few years, even considering most of the putty goes to waste, you just can't use it all up once it's mixed. There's always a significant amount of waste. Yet still it last really, really long. It also has a huge benefit because it works as a filler too, just like I've shown on those towing shackle mounts. Plastic sprue would sink into the gap. I still think stretched sprues are pretty legit in 1/72nd scale. Sounds like a topic for another video!
While looking for supplies in an art shop (Mod Podge and whatnot) I bought a tip for a fountain pen (aka a nib) in a calligraphy section, and it works quite well as a marking tool. So if anyone's willing to try this method but the prospect of having to bent and shape soda can aluminium puts them off, you can use this to speedrun the process.
yaay, our favorite friday night attraction is here! :)
Haha, always glad to deliver :)
Hey man loving your content! your work is absolutely amazing. can u please make a vid about making that toothpick tool for welding?
Subbed
Hi Sir, your videos are informative and inspiring.
Can I ask how did you create those multi pass welding seams, especially on the Maus turret joints, not the 'C' shaped ones. Thank you!
Night shift! Great work! Can you elaborate on how to put these welds on photo etch parts... I’m just learning this skill now and your video is outstanding! Ken
Yes Martin I would like to see how to make that tool!
Alright!
One question Martin, the two styrene sheets you use to make an epoxy noodle, do they need to have any texture? I have styrene sheet they are glossy af.
Thanks!
I think you'll have to try it yourself. The point is to have water on both sheets. If the glossy surface doesn't hold water well, make it more rough with sandpaper.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Interesting, thanks!
I really like this method, but I still prefer my thread zapper and stretched sprue plastic to make my welds :)
I'm not saying this to insult you, but anywhere where you can see the exposed root of a weld, it should be in the shape of an out-ward facing V, since the plates would have been flame-gouged at a 45 deg. angle, in order to ensure the best weld penetration possible with as few slag inclusions as possible, being that tanks from this period were all welded using Stick (SMAW, or Shielded-Metal Arc-Welding).
I just show my tanks with the lights off.
Could you please do a quick video on the welding sculpting tool, it looks awesome But I'm not totally sure about making one.
I had a happy idiot modeler life. Simple. Until I watched this. Now. I’ve got to weld seam everything 🤯🤯🤯
Again very good and easy to follow! But how about 1/72 armor?
Keep on going! Great style of explanation in your Videos!
I think the best way for 1/72 is stretched sprue. But then again some subjects could be "welded" with putty as well. It really depends on how massive the welds are on the real tank.
Night Shift i‘ok guess try an error is a good choice. Practicing an small scale models to find the best looking weld 🤗
I think you'll be good with stretched sprue. I probably wouldn't do them myself with putty unless I'd be adding casting seam lines on an IS-2 or IS-3 turret.
OK, nice. In 1/72 scale it will be hard. But I must try it. ;)
72 scale is tricky for welds. I'd stick with stretched sprue :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels so, also Plastruct profiles (these with smallest diameter) should be good. Also I want try PE weld lines from Mirage Hobby, but it is difficult to find them. ;)
Eww, I wouldn't trust PE welds :) If the Plastruct profiles are thinner than 0,5mm they could work. But stretched sprue is cheaper :)
Thanks for info. Yes, Plastruct make something about 0,3mm, so, it could work. But yes, stretched sprue should be cheaper. It need no be so perfect like Plastruct profile. ;)
Stretched sprues are often irregular in diameter, but then again you can make several of them and just use the good portions and discard the rest.
Apologies if this already got mentioned but you can also just slice off a piece of brass tubing at an angle.
Yup, looks more fancy, you can use any diameter you need and it's probably easier to make. However I'd suggest to thin down/sharpen the edge with a round file or something.
@@NightShiftScaleModels totes!
Amazing tutorial! I have a big question for you. I see you are holding your models with your hands when working with them. Do you wash them with soapy water before you base coat them later? I have recently worked on my first 1/48 scale tank and washed it thoroughly with warm soapy water, let it dry and applied the basecoat on the tank and let that dry too but later when I applied a second lighter coat going by your 'worn' tutorial from the sharotank and start chipping it, the entire coat peels right down to the plastic :(
Yes I always wash every model and every part prior to painting. Soapy warm water and a toothbrush/soft brush depending on how fragile the model is.
What paints did you use? What you are describing sounds like something Ammo, AK or Vallejo paints would do if not let to dry for at least a day.
Since I started using Tamiya, MRP or even Lifecolor paints there were no cases of me going straight through the paint exposing bare plastic.
Do you always do the weld beads before you build the vehicle or
Is it just harder to do after the vehicle is built. Thanks
It's best to make the main welds without any details glued to the model. Then, as you progress with your build, you can continuously add welds around those smaller details.
Could you use greenstuff for this, just wait some time till its not as sticky? or is it hard to work with it once its that thin?
Never tried it mate, but saw a few people working with it. I guess it's worth a shot!
Welding is called stacking the pennies So image placing pennies in a line place on top of each other
How would you go about carving the groove on a curve? I'm thinking of the Tiger I turret, which was made from one curved piece of steel, then the roof is welded to it, so how do you cut a groove around the back curved portion?
Good stuff Martin -
I typically use the plastic sprue and glue technique however on some applications I've imparted the weld line photo etch set (from Lion Roar) and the Archer dry rub weld lines set - little easier, cleaner and quicker - but maybe too perfect? Your thoughts?
Keep the videos coming - always great.
T.
I think stretched sprues are pretty legit in 1/72nd scale, I used those on my small scale O-I tank (shown in the intro of this video) but I can also imagine using epoxy in this scale, let's say, on an IS-2 or 3...
I don't know about PE welds. Can't imagine how I would force them to sit completely flush with the surface, without any visible gap or edge. Not to mention bending them over round shapes or getting them between interlocking steel plates.
Archer welds look pretty nice, just saw them recently in Panzermeister36's video. I could imagine using those where tiny welds are needed, let's say on photoetched parts like welded fenders, boxes, etc... I'd just make sure to attach them really well with Mark Softer and Setter and would probably cover them with a light layer of brushed-on primer.