I usually like using styrene rod, but I find the Archer resin weld transfers to be extremely useful for long and straight welds between panels! Though I'm sure you know this :D
@@Panzermeister36 I tried styrene rod once and wasn't pleased with the result. It was too massive and I found it hard to add texture to it. Maybe I used an overly thick rod or something... actually it was quarter rod, I bought that specifically for that task, to wedge it into the gap and just add texture. Didn't work for me though. Those Archers seem very nice and I think they'd work great on photo-etched details.
I've used styrene rod with decent results. The only thing I don't like about that is if you go too heavy with the extra thin it gets gooey, messy and is hard to recover from. That's why I pretty much use Apoxie putty now, more control and better results IMO.
Welder here, In WW2 they used stick welders, So welding direction makes a diffrence. Which means they would weld on horizontal places from Left to Right. And on Vertical places from Bottom to Top. Keep this in mind when pressing the C shape into the puddy, ( C facing the direction you are going ) So when you flip the tank make sure to "weld" into the same direction. ( left to right) For a more realistic/accurate look always stick to these weld directions.. Extra: Left to Right on the horizontal is for right handed welders And back in the day welders were taught to weld with the right hand only. Hope this helps
I'm not sure if they would have had 7018 back then, but I would think they would have been going uphand, as better penetration would be important on a tank, so you'd want those "C's" to be "U's" on any vertical welds. But on every WW2 vehicle I've ever seen the welds like like garbage or chicken shit haha.
@@StarNostrum A good rule of thumb is to buy older or less expensive kits when starting. No point in getting a $50 model only to botch it and be unhappy!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm a welder too and I'm amazed how your welds look. And, in 8:50, when you said that you don't need to scrape a channel in tight corners, well, thas how welding works(with thin materials, of course) Edit: BTW, I saw once a T-34/'76 with porosity and cracks in welds. Probably welded by a guy with few hours of practice. Later production armor, after '43, had better quality.
19 yrs as a welder and most in a shipyard, my only suggestion is your lifting eye pads on the undersides, general rule of thumb is the height of the fillet bead is 1/3 the materials thickness, so a 3 inch thick piece of steel is goin to have 1 inch high and wide weld bead
@@NinjaMG I'm not even a welder but early T-34s look painfully amateurish. The bead looks like a pile of gravel instead of a bead and hell, there's holes between plates all over.
I do Warhammer 40k minis and I'm here. Honestly I'm starting to become interested in apply these sorts of things to my models. Give them a more realistic feel I guess.
I'm a welder who has had some experience with military vehicles. I'm continually blown away how close the preparation for real welding can mirror what you're doing. Like when you weld butt joint- plate welding, you would be wise to add a groove to fill with weld metal for a more complete weld. But the fillet welds, ( like with the tie-down ears) you don't have to add a groove. You just follow the joint where the parts being welded touch each other.
I THINK that the "Welds" and "Texturing" REALLY Make them LOOK Like they were made from Metal and look "Heavier" even BEFORE they are painted! I LOVE that one pic of the Rusty German Tank. THAT thing just looks like a BEAST! Nicely Done Martin! :D
I used this method to create the weld lines on a Sherman Turret and it worked great. The only thing I did a little different was let the epoxy set for a while before rolling it out into thin lines. I found it easier to roll and apply this way. Other than that, you instructions were followed to the letter. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to you videos. Thanks again - Joe
Thank you for making this video! I am getting into building 1/16 scale German armor & details such as weld seams are a necessary detail for larger models. I tried to make my own using putty, styrene rod & Milliput but all my results were total failures. I cant wait to try weld seams again using your techniques. Your tutorial was very detailed & excellent!
You really make great tutorials! Keep up the very good work! :) And it would be super nice if all your tutorials where demonstrated on that same model. That way all elements slowly comes together to a finished tank!
Thanks for the tip. I do cars and this is still applicable when doing welds on the floor pans. I’ve never trie to reproduce the welds because I didn’t know how. Thanks again.
Great job. I'm inspired to take my builds to the next level. These videos are very well done and professional. I know how time consuming that is so a big thumbs up dude. You're the man.
I think that this is the first time I've seen your channel, and this video is full of good, useful information - and the reasons why, which can be just as important. I also like your cheerful voice and affable manner. Thanks for your work, I will subscribe right away ! !
Nicely done video! Using the sheets of styrene to roll out the epoxy spaghetti for a weld line is a superb idea. For so many years I've been using epoxy putty and never thought of that. I wish I could show some modelers the weld jobs I've seen on T-34s.
I used to see the T-34s and other Soviet tanks at Aberdeen and Ft. Knox. The welds were just flipping ugly! You could look at the T-34s and walk a few steps to compare the welds with those on Jagdpanthers and other tanks. Oh, well... T-34s did exactly what they were built for.
Awesome again man! I really love your style. Those tips for welds are brilliant, I've never thought to scribe a channel into the plastic... so simple and effective. I generally use Aves Apoxie sculpt to make weld beads but I would use a cuticle pusher to make the weld marks. I need to rig up one of those fancy pokers you use. Thanks for the great advice and always entertaining content.
Scribing weld lines is really important. It can be annoying at times when the surface is littered with small details or you just don't have enough room to properly line up the ruler. I think Adam Wilder also uses Apoxie putty.
Yes,and the Alec-“Holly” 0.2mm scriber is a must for eg M4 Sherman/SdKfz.234 welds.I use a separate bottle of cement for texturing which I add styrene to-lengthening drying time for stretched sprue weld seams.The scriber is so good you can lift plates,undercut wiring without leaving any damage on surrounding area.It’s like holding a bendy Stanley knife blade with a canted tip.Get some real shadows going instead of 360 degree shadow of brown sludge.Zimmerit is a “thing” I haven’t tried as a hairspray chipper.Either learn brush chipping or …?
...AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks " Uncle Night Shift"...this was very HELPFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Thanks again Martin! With each video I learn something new, although I knew about this technique for a long time I still managed to get two hints from this that will hopefully help with my next build. Time to open up a box with some heavy, heavy tank with thick plates ;)
Oh yes YES! Heavy tanks are the most delightful to weld :) That Maus I showed in this video was my first serious attempt at welding. Because it's just a plain brick with almost no surface detail, it was the perfect exercise in welding. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I'm honestly amazed I've never thought of this. I don't do a lot of armour models, and when I do it's usually 40k stuff, so my first instinct is always to grab the epoxy and *smooth out* lines and mismatched joints, not turn them into welds. I know what I'm doing from now on though. I've never even thought about it!
Yup, looks more fancy, you can use any diameter you need and it's probably easier to make. However I'd suggest to thin down/sharpen the edge with a round file or something.
Hi Martin. Hope you had a great Christmas. Thank you for your great videos throughout last year, all very good. You make the “Epoxy Weld Beads” look so easy, I tried yesterday for the 1st time, and this stuff ended up stuck on the ceiling, my face, and even the cat, and I don’t have a cat…. :-) In the end I got it 90% worked out, and it looks good. Warm regards, Steve
Great video! I wonder If you are going to upload the paint job on that Maus. Definitely something I want to see! As I'm not a modeler myself I find more interesting to watch the build of the whole model more than just the techniques... Anyway, I just found your channel and I've already watched all your videos! Keep up the good content!
I'm not saying this to insult you, but anywhere where you can see the exposed root of a weld, it should be in the shape of an out-ward facing V, since the plates would have been flame-gouged at a 45 deg. angle, in order to ensure the best weld penetration possible with as few slag inclusions as possible, being that tanks from this period were all welded using Stick (SMAW, or Shielded-Metal Arc-Welding).
While looking for supplies in an art shop (Mod Podge and whatnot) I bought a tip for a fountain pen (aka a nib) in a calligraphy section, and it works quite well as a marking tool. So if anyone's willing to try this method but the prospect of having to bent and shape soda can aluminium puts them off, you can use this to speedrun the process.
As usual, super interesting. For Canadians modelers information, I went to my local hobby shop to get some two-part Tamiya epoxy putty. I was told it is no longer available in Canada due to its chemical composition. (Don't have the details and I haven't double checked that info). I guess it's only a matter of getting it online but I thought I'd pass the info. The guy told me Milliput was the recommended replacement, a claim I find highly doubtful. Judging from the video, I'd say the Green Stuff Green putty looks to be closer in composition and handling.
Interesting info! You're right with your assumptions. Milliput creates noticeably different results if you use it to sculpt pretty much anything. I don't know, never was a fan of it. Magic Sculpt is also very different and I only use it for stowage, but not anymore for welds. I guess the main difference is how Tamiya is "rubbery" and flexible while those other two are more "stiff" so to say. I don't know, Tamiya just has a better texture.
Interesting. I might have to try it this way. I usually just cut a sliver of styrene and use Tamiya extra thin to melt it then use a dental tool to build the "roll of coins" effect of a proper weld.
One question Martin, the two styrene sheets you use to make an epoxy noodle, do they need to have any texture? I have styrene sheet they are glossy af. Thanks!
I think you'll have to try it yourself. The point is to have water on both sheets. If the glossy surface doesn't hold water well, make it more rough with sandpaper.
Could I just cut directly into the plastic without the putty? Assuming i don't cut too deep. And does what putty I use matter? I got the standard Tamiya putty
Night shift! Great work! Can you elaborate on how to put these welds on photo etch parts... I’m just learning this skill now and your video is outstanding! Ken
Great tutorial as allways! I am using extra fine Milliput, but it's really hard to work with in 1/72 scale. I should give a try to that tamiya putty. 🤔 Aaaand I am waiting for that weld type video you've mentioned! It's worth the time!😉
Thanks! Not a big fan of Milliput, always found it hard to work with no matter the scale. I think stretched sprues are very good for replicating welds in 1/72. But again depending on the subject I could imagine doing a few welds with putty even in small scales.
here's a quick tip that might seem very obvious, but might be missed through over-thinking: a "weld" that is a bit too big is better than one that is too small, because one that is too big you can wait for it to dry and then cut/sand away any excess.
How would you go about carving the groove on a curve? I'm thinking of the Tiger I turret, which was made from one curved piece of steel, then the roof is welded to it, so how do you cut a groove around the back curved portion?
I'm trying this, but also having a tough time getting it right. Really frustrating how sticky this stuff is when the wetting wears off at the wrong moment. Will keep trying.
It's best to keep the putty wet while you're manipulating it, then, once in a proper position, let the water evaporate and then start adding the texture. I've been there too...
@@NightShiftScaleModels Thank you! I'm getting there with practice. No doubt you've had tons, or else it wouldn't look so easy in your videos. They're a great source of inspiration. Cheers!
Plastic sprues, but if you say that one box of tamiya epoxy can last for a few years, I think i'll give it a try. I have in mind a KV-1 early type from Eastern Express to try on. As always, great video)) Even if you'll make a 10min tutorial about this highly engineered tool it will be worth to see XD
Yes, it will last for a few years, even considering most of the putty goes to waste, you just can't use it all up once it's mixed. There's always a significant amount of waste. Yet still it last really, really long. It also has a huge benefit because it works as a filler too, just like I've shown on those towing shackle mounts. Plastic sprue would sink into the gap. I still think stretched sprues are pretty legit in 1/72nd scale. Sounds like a topic for another video!
"Job interview" - You wrote here, you are not a welder but have over 10 years in welding experience, would you like to explain this a bit? -well... have you ever heard about tamyia epoxy putty?
could you perhaps compile a list of materials you use (for all your models) i know it would be a lot of work, but it would be helpful for people like me who are just getting into modelling
It's best to make the main welds without any details glued to the model. Then, as you progress with your build, you can continuously add welds around those smaller details.
Another Fantastic video :) - I'm still using Magicsculpt for tarps have yet to find something that beats it. Will definetly be ordering the Tamiya Variant to try out.
Oh yes, Magic Sculpt is is also my favorite for tarps, sandbags and other stowage-related stuff. Don't do those quite often, but when I do, MS is the best choice.
Hi Sir, your videos are informative and inspiring. Can I ask how did you create those multi pass welding seams, especially on the Maus turret joints, not the 'C' shaped ones. Thank you!
Do you add welds to your models?
If yes, which technique/material do you prefer?
I usually like using styrene rod, but I find the Archer resin weld transfers to be extremely useful for long and straight welds between panels! Though I'm sure you know this :D
Yes. And exactly the same Tamiya putty
@@Panzermeister36 I tried styrene rod once and wasn't pleased with the result. It was too massive and I found it hard to add texture to it. Maybe I used an overly thick rod or something... actually it was quarter rod, I bought that specifically for that task, to wedge it into the gap and just add texture. Didn't work for me though. Those Archers seem very nice and I think they'd work great on photo-etched details.
@@rossomachin Ah, another man of culture!
I've used styrene rod with decent results. The only thing I don't like about that is if you go too heavy with the extra thin it gets gooey, messy and is hard to recover from. That's why I pretty much use Apoxie putty now, more control and better results IMO.
Welder here,
In WW2 they used stick welders, So welding direction makes a diffrence.
Which means they would weld on horizontal places from Left to Right.
And on Vertical places from Bottom to Top.
Keep this in mind when pressing the C shape into the puddy, ( C facing the direction you are going ) So when you flip the tank make sure to "weld" into the same direction. ( left to right)
For a more realistic/accurate look always stick to these weld directions..
Extra:
Left to Right on the horizontal is for right handed welders
And back in the day welders were taught to weld with the right hand only.
Hope this helps
I'm not sure if they would have had 7018 back then, but I would think they would have been going uphand, as better penetration would be important on a tank, so you'd want those "C's" to be "U's" on any vertical welds. But on every WW2 vehicle I've ever seen the welds like like garbage or chicken shit haha.
IN WORLD WAR II IT DIDN’T MATTER!!! THEY ONLY WANTED MASS PRODUCTION.
and then there is some guy who knows in which direction the tanks in ww2 was welded.
Where is the face of the "C"? Is the facing like the bulb first or the open end first?
@@AKKK1182open end facing right or up
I don't even do models and I'm here watching this
You should enter the hobby, it's very relaxing and rewarding!
@@unteroffitzierschultz4288 One day I will probably, and it's cool as heck, specially when you know about the vehicle
@@StarNostrum A good rule of thumb is to buy older or less expensive kits when starting. No point in getting a $50 model only to botch it and be unhappy!
Haha me too... I want to start tho... When I can fit it into my budget
As a welder I think you have captured this craft very well.
Wow, thanks a lot!
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'm a welder too and I'm amazed how your welds look. And, in 8:50, when you said that you don't need to scrape a channel in tight corners, well, thas how welding works(with thin materials, of course)
Edit: BTW, I saw once a T-34/'76 with porosity and cracks in welds. Probably welded by a guy with few hours of practice. Later production armor, after '43, had better quality.
19 yrs as a welder and most in a shipyard, my only suggestion is your lifting eye pads on the undersides, general rule of thumb is the height of the fillet bead is 1/3 the materials thickness, so a 3 inch thick piece of steel is goin to have 1 inch high and wide weld bead
@@NinjaMG I'm not even a welder but early T-34s look painfully amateurish. The bead looks like a pile of gravel instead of a bead and hell, there's holes between plates all over.
Just found you on RUclips, after I seen it on Instagram. This is insane, thanks for the tutorials to improve my models! Well done mate, keep going..
Thank you, there's so much more where this came from!
I do Warhammer 40k minis and I'm here. Honestly I'm starting to become interested in apply these sorts of things to my models. Give them a more realistic feel I guess.
I've came back to this video several times over these past weeks. Thanks so much for your tutorials.
Hi, not a model maker but someone who found you channel while trawling for some late night viewing. Just to say that you make a very good job!
Your tutorials are very very helpful, even i am 40 years a modeler already. Cheers from Germany
I'm a welder who has had some experience with military vehicles. I'm continually blown away how close the preparation for real welding can mirror what you're doing. Like when you weld butt joint- plate welding, you would be wise to add a groove to fill with weld metal for a more complete weld. But the fillet welds, ( like with the tie-down ears) you don't have to add a groove. You just follow the joint where the parts being welded touch each other.
Man, everytime you put out a new video i get so excited and motivated!
Lol, thanks, that's my mission!
I THINK that the "Welds" and "Texturing" REALLY Make them LOOK Like they were made from Metal and look "Heavier" even BEFORE they are painted!
I LOVE that one pic of the Rusty German Tank. THAT thing just looks like a BEAST!
Nicely Done Martin! :D
I used this method to create the weld lines on a Sherman Turret and it worked great. The only thing I did a little different was let the epoxy set for a while before rolling it out into thin lines. I found it easier to roll and apply this way. Other than that, you instructions were followed to the letter. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to you videos. Thanks again - Joe
Just found this channel and watched a few videos. I love how you show an explaine what you are doing in a simple easy to understand way.
Thank you for making this video! I am getting into building 1/16 scale German armor & details such as weld seams are a necessary detail for larger models. I tried to make my own using putty, styrene rod & Milliput but all my results were total failures. I cant wait to try weld seams again using your techniques. Your tutorial was very detailed & excellent!
Thanks! I have been modeling for many years now, and I can always learn something new and pick up different techniques. Good stuff.
You really make great tutorials! Keep up the very good work! :)
And it would be super nice if all your tutorials where demonstrated on that same model. That way all elements slowly comes together to a finished tank!
I've never made a single model in my life and I'm binge watching these
the bloopers are great i love this channel
Very nice technique and no real expense or fancy tools.
No one:
Night Shift: "Just lick your tools.."
Still waiting on a tutorial for the weld seam tool =P
I second this
all in favor say i
He made a weld seam tool here=ruclips.net/video/cUUbAPBu5Yc/видео.html Then go to 13:37 and he shows a Weld Seam tool where he makes it.
@@MrSwarovsk1 I caught it and made a couple. ThanX Alex.
Wow you guys put so much detail into these
Awesome tutorials. I`m glad I found this channel.
And I'm glad to hear that! Thank you!
PetervanHorne - Thank you Martin, this tutorial will help me tremendously.
Thanks for the tip. I do cars and this is still applicable when doing welds on the floor pans. I’ve never trie to reproduce the welds because I didn’t know how. Thanks again.
Thanks Martin, this video help a lot to put more detail in our models, thanks!
Always glad to help!
Great job. I'm inspired to take my builds to the next level. These videos are very well done and professional. I know how time consuming that is so a big thumbs up dude. You're the man.
Thanks a lot! Glad you like them!
I think that this is the first time I've seen your channel, and this video is full of good, useful information - and the reasons why, which can be just as important. I also like your cheerful voice and affable manner. Thanks for your work, I will subscribe right away ! !
Thanks a lot and welcome!
Nicely done video!
Using the sheets of styrene to roll out the epoxy spaghetti for a weld line is a superb idea. For so many years I've been using epoxy putty and never thought of that.
I wish I could show some modelers the weld jobs I've seen on T-34s.
T-34s and IS-2s are a gold mine for gnarly welds
I used to see the T-34s and other Soviet tanks at Aberdeen and Ft. Knox. The welds were just flipping ugly! You could look at the T-34s and walk a few steps to compare the welds with those on Jagdpanthers and other tanks. Oh, well... T-34s did exactly what they were built for.
Awesome again man! I really love your style. Those tips for welds are brilliant, I've never thought to scribe a channel into the plastic... so simple and effective. I generally use Aves Apoxie sculpt to make weld beads but I would use a cuticle pusher to make the weld marks. I need to rig up one of those fancy pokers you use. Thanks for the great advice and always entertaining content.
Scribing weld lines is really important. It can be annoying at times when the surface is littered with small details or you just don't have enough room to properly line up the ruler. I think Adam Wilder also uses Apoxie putty.
Fantastic work, thank you
That's amazing. Thanks for the lessson
Fantastic tutorial bud 👍 very clean and neat job, for sure I'll "borrow" some or your techniques. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks!
Yes,and the Alec-“Holly” 0.2mm scriber is a must for eg M4 Sherman/SdKfz.234 welds.I use a separate bottle of cement for texturing which I add styrene to-lengthening drying time for stretched sprue weld seams.The scriber is so good you can lift plates,undercut wiring without leaving any damage on surrounding area.It’s like holding a bendy Stanley knife blade with a canted tip.Get some real shadows going instead of 360 degree shadow of brown sludge.Zimmerit is a “thing” I haven’t tried as a hairspray chipper.Either learn brush chipping or …?
HeHe Balls! Great tutorial Martin! I really appreciate the effort you put into these. Very informative.
Yoooo I still need to make a video about those multiple-pass Soviet-style welds you asked about!
looking forward to that one.
...AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks " Uncle Night Shift"...this was very HELPFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Can you make a video about that poking/welding tool because when i try to craft it the tip is so big and inaccurate?
Thanks
-Andrew
I would like to see how you shaped the soda can tin piece before gluing it to the tooth pick.
If you're not sure, you could probably get a cheap fountain pen, pull the metal nib off and stick that on a cocktail stick/toothpick
@@MerryMac1000 I had a look at those many seem to have squared off ends, or it's kinda like a small spherical shape on the end.
I’d like to see a quick video on how you made that tool to recreate weld patterns.
Thanks again Martin! With each video I learn something new, although I knew about this technique for a long time I still managed to get two hints from this that will hopefully help with my next build. Time to open up a box with some heavy, heavy tank with thick plates ;)
Oh yes YES! Heavy tanks are the most delightful to weld :) That Maus I showed in this video was my first serious attempt at welding. Because it's just a plain brick with almost no surface detail, it was the perfect exercise in welding. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Yes, please make a little tutorial about your welding tool
It's very interesting the level of detail and the insight you apply here. Cheers for the video bud :-)
I'm sooooo happy I found you man!
I LOVE that nasty hack LMAO definitely my style lol
I'm honestly amazed I've never thought of this. I don't do a lot of armour models, and when I do it's usually 40k stuff, so my first instinct is always to grab the epoxy and *smooth out* lines and mismatched joints, not turn them into welds. I know what I'm doing from now on though. I've never even thought about it!
There you go! 😁
Thanks for showing us how to make a better model, a Lorne so match from you 👍
Díky Martine! Opravdu nádherná videa a illustrace různých technik a triků. Hezky se to poslouchá a je to velmi naučné...i pro letadýlkáře jako já ;)
Ďakujem Honzo! Zvárané lietadlo, to som veru ešte nevidel, máš šancu rozvíriť divokú diskusiu medzi lietadielkármi :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels To asi ano :) "To tu ještě nebylo! Svařované letadlo..." Ještě jednou díky moc a těším se na další videa...
I just across your channel. This was a great video! Thanks!
Glad you like it, thank you too!
Great thanks man! This is very helpful, too much informative!
Thanks!
Brilliant, thanks for posting
super awesome video, thanks for making this!!
Thank you!
Apologies if this already got mentioned but you can also just slice off a piece of brass tubing at an angle.
Yup, looks more fancy, you can use any diameter you need and it's probably easier to make. However I'd suggest to thin down/sharpen the edge with a round file or something.
@@NightShiftScaleModels totes!
Just stumbled across your videos :D awesome work my friend
Thank you!
Hi Martin.
Hope you had a great Christmas.
Thank you for your great videos throughout last year, all very good.
You make the “Epoxy Weld Beads” look so easy, I tried yesterday for the 1st time, and this stuff ended up stuck on the ceiling, my face, and even the cat, and I don’t have a cat…. :-)
In the end I got it 90% worked out, and it looks good.
Warm regards, Steve
Another great guide! I'm looking forward to trying this out.
Awesome video, and channel. I have a much better understanding of the processes. Than you.
Wow! Good humor too! Subscribed.
Great video! I wonder If you are going to upload the paint job on that Maus. Definitely something I want to see! As I'm not a modeler myself I find more interesting to watch the build of the whole model more than just the techniques... Anyway, I just found your channel and I've already watched all your videos! Keep up the good content!
Very interesting and entertaining
Same sized balls are a good thing. 😀 Great tutorial again. 👌
BALLST!
I'm not saying this to insult you, but anywhere where you can see the exposed root of a weld, it should be in the shape of an out-ward facing V, since the plates would have been flame-gouged at a 45 deg. angle, in order to ensure the best weld penetration possible with as few slag inclusions as possible, being that tanks from this period were all welded using Stick (SMAW, or Shielded-Metal Arc-Welding).
I just show my tanks with the lights off.
While looking for supplies in an art shop (Mod Podge and whatnot) I bought a tip for a fountain pen (aka a nib) in a calligraphy section, and it works quite well as a marking tool. So if anyone's willing to try this method but the prospect of having to bent and shape soda can aluminium puts them off, you can use this to speedrun the process.
As usual, super interesting. For Canadians modelers information, I went to my local hobby shop to get some two-part Tamiya epoxy putty. I was told it is no longer available in Canada due to its chemical composition. (Don't have the details and I haven't double checked that info). I guess it's only a matter of getting it online but I thought I'd pass the info.
The guy told me Milliput was the recommended replacement, a claim I find highly doubtful. Judging from the video, I'd say the Green Stuff Green putty looks to be closer in composition and handling.
Interesting info!
You're right with your assumptions. Milliput creates noticeably different results if you use it to sculpt pretty much anything. I don't know, never was a fan of it. Magic Sculpt is also very different and I only use it for stowage, but not anymore for welds. I guess the main difference is how Tamiya is "rubbery" and flexible while those other two are more "stiff" so to say. I don't know, Tamiya just has a better texture.
I build race cars with tube frames. You just made life better. Thanks.
Super helpful video thanks
Awesome! Thanks so much for this. Great stuff!!
Could you please do a quick video on the welding sculpting tool, it looks awesome But I'm not totally sure about making one.
Interesting. I might have to try it this way. I usually just cut a sliver of styrene and use Tamiya extra thin to melt it then use a dental tool to build the "roll of coins" effect of a proper weld.
That's an interesting technique, quite similar to stretched sprue. I should try it one day!
Nice detail enjoyed tutorial.
Fantastic video and channel. Thanks for sharing with us, subbed and inspired!
Thanks a million times!
Great video.
Thanks!
Yes Martin I would like to see how to make that tool!
Alright!
One question Martin, the two styrene sheets you use to make an epoxy noodle, do they need to have any texture? I have styrene sheet they are glossy af.
Thanks!
I think you'll have to try it yourself. The point is to have water on both sheets. If the glossy surface doesn't hold water well, make it more rough with sandpaper.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Interesting, thanks!
Great video! This is a very helpful demonstration. Thanks!
Thanks Jon!
Some great info here! New Sub!!
God mode = Activated : ) Great tips, thank!!!
Thanks!! :)
Could I just cut directly into the plastic without the putty? Assuming i don't cut too deep.
And does what putty I use matter? I got the standard Tamiya putty
Thems some delicious lookin welds, bubba
Welding is called stacking the pennies So image placing pennies in a line place on top of each other
Night shift! Great work! Can you elaborate on how to put these welds on photo etch parts... I’m just learning this skill now and your video is outstanding! Ken
love ur videos!!!
Thanks mate!!
Great tutorial as allways!
I am using extra fine Milliput, but it's really hard to work with in 1/72 scale. I should give a try to that tamiya putty. 🤔
Aaaand I am waiting for that weld type video you've mentioned!
It's worth the time!😉
Thanks! Not a big fan of Milliput, always found it hard to work with no matter the scale. I think stretched sprues are very good for replicating welds in 1/72. But again depending on the subject I could imagine doing a few welds with putty even in small scales.
here's a quick tip that might seem very obvious, but might be missed through over-thinking: a "weld" that is a bit too big is better than one that is too small, because one that is too big you can wait for it to dry and then cut/sand away any excess.
Yet it seems like nobody is doing that because what I see all the time are oversized welds and not a single one that might be too small.
How would you go about carving the groove on a curve? I'm thinking of the Tiger I turret, which was made from one curved piece of steel, then the roof is welded to it, so how do you cut a groove around the back curved portion?
I'm trying this, but also having a tough time getting it right.
Really frustrating how sticky this stuff is when the wetting wears off at the wrong moment.
Will keep trying.
It's best to keep the putty wet while you're manipulating it, then, once in a proper position, let the water evaporate and then start adding the texture. I've been there too...
@@NightShiftScaleModels Thank you! I'm getting there with practice. No doubt you've had tons, or else it wouldn't look so easy in your videos. They're a great source of inspiration.
Cheers!
Thank you!!!!
Thank you too!
Plastic sprues, but if you say that one box of tamiya epoxy can last for a few years, I think i'll give it a try. I have in mind a KV-1 early type from Eastern Express to try on.
As always, great video)) Even if you'll make a 10min tutorial about this highly engineered tool it will be worth to see XD
Yes, it will last for a few years, even considering most of the putty goes to waste, you just can't use it all up once it's mixed. There's always a significant amount of waste. Yet still it last really, really long. It also has a huge benefit because it works as a filler too, just like I've shown on those towing shackle mounts. Plastic sprue would sink into the gap. I still think stretched sprues are pretty legit in 1/72nd scale. Sounds like a topic for another video!
"Job interview"
- You wrote here, you are not a welder but have over 10 years in welding experience, would you like to explain this a bit?
-well... have you ever heard about tamyia epoxy putty?
yaay, our favorite friday night attraction is here! :)
Haha, always glad to deliver :)
Hey man loving your content! your work is absolutely amazing. can u please make a vid about making that toothpick tool for welding?
could you perhaps compile a list of materials you use (for all your models)
i know it would be a lot of work, but it would be helpful for people like me who are just getting into modelling
Is there a video which tools You’re using? Every tool you use and where can we bought it. It would be cool!?
Do you always do the weld beads before you build the vehicle or
Is it just harder to do after the vehicle is built. Thanks
It's best to make the main welds without any details glued to the model. Then, as you progress with your build, you can continuously add welds around those smaller details.
Could you use greenstuff for this, just wait some time till its not as sticky? or is it hard to work with it once its that thin?
Never tried it mate, but saw a few people working with it. I guess it's worth a shot!
I really like this method, but I still prefer my thread zapper and stretched sprue plastic to make my welds :)
Please a Video for 1:16 scale models i´m Intressting !!
What's the biggest difference you found between magic sculpt and Tamiya epoxy?
Tamiya is more flexible and more sticky. It also somehow creates a smoother finish after it solidifies. However I still use MS for tarps and stowage.
How thick would you make the welds on a 1/16 scale German tank
Is the tamiya 2 part as sticky as green stuff?
Another Fantastic video :) - I'm still using Magicsculpt for tarps have yet to find something that beats it.
Will definetly be ordering the Tamiya Variant to try out.
Oh yes, Magic Sculpt is is also my favorite for tarps, sandbags and other stowage-related stuff. Don't do those quite often, but when I do, MS is the best choice.
Hi Sir, your videos are informative and inspiring.
Can I ask how did you create those multi pass welding seams, especially on the Maus turret joints, not the 'C' shaped ones. Thank you!
Can I use Milliput instead of Tamiya epoxy putty?