2007 F150 5.4 - P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire - Bad fuel injector - Don't overlook the simple checks!
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- 2007 F150 5.4 running rough. Had a P0305 cylinder 5 misfire code. Checking the misfire data showed cylinder 5 as the only cylinder that's registering misfires. Not a dead misfire but definitely misfiring. Start with the simple things. Swap coils and it stays at cylinder 5. Inspect the spark plug and it's been changed. Thank God! Truck sounds fine while cranking so the next thing to check would be the fuel injector.
Resources online, RUclips/forums/etc, are full of how to do fancy testing. Labscoping, fuel injector pressure drop testing, etc. These are all great tests that are usually required to find difficult problems. However, not everything is a difficult problem. Don't forget the simple test of checking resistance. Resistance has almost become like a taboo subject online. But if it's quick and easy to do then do it. If you get a good resistance value that does not mean you have a good part. But if you get a BAD resistance value then that DOES mean you have a bad part! Get a bad value and you're done. No need to do anything more involved than that! You know you have a bad fuel injector. Order up a few and check them all when you're replacing the one. Replace any others that are more than 2-3 ohms out from normal.
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05 f150..... getting P0305 and p0205 CYLINDER 5 changed the spark plugs, injectors, coils. still have codes driving my insane help !
@Akuza1000 Are you still getting the P0205? If so that's definitely what you'd want to focus in on. A P0205 can cause a P0305 but a P0305 will not cause a P0205. Quickest test with injectors is just the simple resistance measurement. Typically they're 12-15ohms. If they're bad enough to cause misfires and codes then they'll be off by A LOT. Like 40+ ohms. Of course that doesn't check everything. Just a super quick and easy first step to check for an obvious fault. New doesn't always mean good. If you are still getting a P0205 then you'll want to make sure your power and control are good to the injector. Easiest way to do that is buy a Noid Light Kit. You can get them pretty cheap and places like Princess Auto/Harbour Freight. They're just a bunch of different light bulbs with different style pins on them. So you find the one that fits your injector connector, plug it in in place of the injector, then run the vehicle. You should see it flash. If you don't see it flash at all then you'll have to chase that down. May be a wiring issue or may be a faulty ECM.
HOWEVER! One thing to be aware of is sometimes an ECM will INTENTIONALLY shutdown an injector. So you could do this test thinking you have no control when it's normal. So what you'll want to do is clear all the codes, shut the vehicle off, plug in your noid light then get someone else to start it while you watch the light. If the ECM is shutting down the injector intentionally then it will still fire it a few times on a startup after you clear codes. So you would see flashing for a few seconds then no flashing at all. That would mean everything is fine and you need to chase after other causes of the misfire. However if you don't EVER see it flash then wiring or ECM issue.
Good luck! Let me know what you find.
Great job 👏 thanks for good diagnosis tips 👍👍
@ericrojcewicz6074 Thanks! Glad you liked it!
I lost brain cells and a year off my life watching this lol Go do another one guy
I replaced all my coilpacks and plugs but still have a miss, i also put dielectric grease on each spade and on the plug contact side and every connector, but I still have a miss...
Maybe someone knows the answer to this question. I used my powerprobe maestro, which can test the injector circuit, and found that on cylinders 5-8, I would see an occasional Injector On Time drop to as low as 40.1 and even 101. Cylinders 1-4 would stay around 2.78 - 3.00 or so and never drop. I think this shows my occasional miss would be on the control side to the injectors, which could be the pcm? Also, I watched a fordtechmakeuloco video where he shows a #7 cylinder intake roller follower popped off and was cause the misfire there..I assume with my findings this shouldn't be what is causing my miss?
I also verified I had good voltage to each power side of each injector connector. Any ideas? I replaced the fuel driver control module by the spare tire about 1.5 years ago with a doorman, I don't know if a malfunction in it could cause my on time drop or not though.
I have a 06 f150 I’m getting a code for cylinder #5 and 2 cam phaser sensors. Put champion spark plugs (I seen people saying they are junk) but that’s all my local parts store had. I replaced coil and plug and same issue. Haven’t check fuel injector though. Hoping that’s it… frustrating
@mark30727 Did you end up getting it figured? Ford phasers have always had problems but that's not going to cause a single cylinder misfire. Definitely the most common causes are spark plugs and coils. It is pretty common to find Fords with bad fuel injectors. They don't fail as often as their ignition coils but still change quite a few. If it doesn't seem like the fuel injector I would suggest making sure you actually have spark on cylinder #5. So pull out the coil and spark plug with the coil still plugged in, lay it on the engine, ground the spark plug threads, and see if it's sparking. Or if you have one of those spark tester tools. If the coil goes bad by shorting out then more current will flow. This can overload the transistor that drives the coil. On a 3+ wire coil that transistor lives inside the coil and no problem. Just replace the coil and you're good. These Ford coils are 2 wire coils though. That means the transistor lives inside the PCM. So if the coil was shorted it may have damaged the PCM and the PCM may no longer be able to fire that coil. You would have fixed the problem by replacing the spark plug and coil but would still need to replace the engine computer to get that cylinder firing again. This happens a fair amount on Fords.
I would definitely try a quick measurement of the fuel injector like in this video. It should be within an ohm or two of the others. If that seems good then I would definitely pull out the coil and confirm that it is indeed sparking. If it is then I'd go back after that fuel injector. Getting a bad resistance value means you DEFINITELY have a bad fuel injector but getting a good value doesn't necessarily mean you have a good one. These trucks are pretty easy to pop the fuel rail so I'd swap the #5 injector with another cylinder and see if the misfire follows. Otherwise just replace it with a new one as they're not too expensive.
Good luck and let me know what you find!
@@eurbanautotechI replaced all my coilpacks and plugs but still have a miss, i also put dielectric grease on each spade and on the plug contact side and every connector, but I still have a miss...
Maybe someone knows the answer to this question. I used my powerprobe maestro, which can test the injector circuit, and found that on cylinders 5-8, I would see an occasional Injector On Time drop to as low as 40.1 and even 101. Cylinders 1-4 would stay around 2.78 - 3.00 or so and never drop. I think this shows my occasional miss would be on the control side to the injectors, which could be the pcm? Also, I watched a fordtechmakeuloco video where he shows a #7 cylinder intake roller follower popped off and was cause the misfire there..I assume with my findings this shouldn't be what is causing my miss?
I also verified I had good voltage to each power side of each injector connector. Any ideas? I replaced the fuel driver control module by the spare tire about 1.5 years ago with a doorman, I don't know if a malfunction in it could cause my on time drop or not though.
Help needed…
I had a P0305 almost a yr ago. Replaced all plugs and cylinder 5 coil. Same problem has come back. Replaced all plug and cylinder 5 coil again. Still have the issue. It’s a 2019 Ford F-150 2.7 Ecoboost with no other issues. Any ideas would be great.
Likely a valve problem. They have had a few valve problems. Run a compression test on all six cylinders.
I just saw your video because I was seeking some information On fuel injectors. Friend of mine bought a 2017 Ford F150 with a 5.0 coyote. It has the misfire P302 number two cylinder. No other codes. I did a compression check which was about 150 which was kind of low compared to some of the other cylinders but I decided to put some transmission fluid in the cylinder just to see if that would bump it up thinking it might be a valve issue .it did not change..Has new new plug good spark. What surprised me when I drove the truck for about 10 highway miles none of the fluid had been washed or burned off the plug. I listened to the injector with a stethoscope and it sounds louder and more of a metallic rap than the adjacent ones. My question is shouldn’t that transmission fluid have been washed off that plug after 10 miles of highway driving if the injector was working properly?Thanks
@COOTER383 You mentioned that it had a new, good spark plug. Did you change the ignition coil too? Or try swapping it with an adjacent cylinder and see if the misfire follows the coil? Ignition coils are one of the most common causes of single cylinder misfires.
But ya, it'd be normal to still have staining on the plug. Unless a cylinder ingests a cleaner (or coolant) then they won't get any cleaner. You definitely shouldn't have liquid ATF still on it. That should all have been baked off. But if you took out all the spark plugs and placed them next to each other you'd definitely be able tell which plug came out of the cylinder you put the ATF in.
I would definitely try to do a resistance measurement of all the fuel injectors. Or at least the ones on that bank. Of course that's not the whole story. If you get a good measurement that doesn't guarantee the injector IS good but if you get a bad measurement that DOES guarantee a bad injector. Easy enough to do.
If the cylinder is not firing at all and you wanted to know if the injector is spraying anything at all then what you could do is unplug all the other injectors. Only leave cylinder 2 injector plugged in but then unplug cylinder 2 ignition coil. Then crank the engine a few revolutions. It'd take quite a bit for a normal working injector to hydrolock an engine but still, don't chance it. Turn the engine no more than 10 revolutions. 10 revs would be 5 injection events. Then pull the cyl2 plug and you should see/smell fuel. If you wanted more fuel to stay behind you could drain the battery a bit first. Leave your headlights on a while. That'll cause a slower cranking speed and less compression to disturb the fuel.
This kinda test can be misleading so you only look into it so far. All intake manifolds/plenums will have oil and fuel in them. If you remove one and tilt it up for a bit you'll get quite the mess on your bench. These vapors can be drawn into cylinder 2 making it smell of fuel. But if you do this test cylinder 2 should smell STRONGLY of fuel. Especially compared to a cylinder on the opposite bank. Cylinder 2 SHOULD look wetter than the other cylinders.
This kind of test gives pretty limited results. It'd only tell you that cylinder 2 fuel injector, very likely, IS spraying SOME amount of fuel. You wouldn't even know if it were enough for a combustion event. So if you didn't have a dead misfire this test would be pretty meaningless. It is something that can be done with limited tools though. Just don't look too much into the results.
Otherwise you could just swap cyl2 injector with an adjacent one and see if the misfire follows. I prefer not disturbing fuel injectors if I don't have to. Sometimes the rail can be pretty unpleasant to pop out of the intake and you gotta put a lot of force on it. These ones are at least easy to get to.
Good luck!
@@eurbanautotech yes ,did coil swap first no change,has good spark on that cylinder.I see no contribution from that cylinder.just surprised that the ATF was still on plug. New plug shows no appearance of any combustion after hour of run time.Like I said injector is pulsating but sounds different than the adjacent injectors. 150 was low compared to some of the other cylinders so I’m gonna do a leak down test. Truck has 193,000 highway miles. So at that mileage anything can happen. I was thinking maybe I had a broken valve spring or something that was not allowing the compression to come up any higher than 150. But of course I’m really suspecting something going on with the fuel injector after no appearance of combustion and no washing of any of that ATF off plug after a 10 mile highway run.
@COOTER383 Gotcha! Ya, I think a leak down test is a good way to go. I do recommend trying to swap injectors first though. Mainly because you'd like to rule that possibility out completely. That way when you're doing a leak down test you don't have to worry about thoughts of injectors nagging away at ya. Instead you can fully focus on what you're doing.
@@eurbanautotech will do,thanks
Champion spark plugs don't belong in a Ford and doesn't look like you even knew that and you say "to check a bad injector you use this thing" riiiiight on brother I'm gonna go and try to find that thing to solve the problem
@Big_Redd There's usually more than one way to tackle a problem but if you have an injector that's electrically fine but mechanically restricted/damaged then you only have three options.
1) Remove the injectors and place in a flow bench
2) Swap two injectors and see if misfire follows
3) Perform a fuel injector pressure drop test with a tool like this.
Option 1 is time consuming, incurs a cost and creates downtime. Most people don't have their own flow bench.
Option 2 actually wouldn't be that bad for this truck. There is a flex hose between the rails and the intake plenum is not in the way. So you could swap two injectors in a reasonable amount of time. Most vehicles are not that way.
Option 3 involves hooking up a fuel pressure gauge, priming the pump, unplugging electrical connector to injector then using this tool to energize the injector for a very specific amount of time. You then record how much the fuel pressure dropped by energizing that one injector. Then you repeat for others. This will tell you if they are flowing the same amount of fuel. On most vehicles it's a quick test that does not involve removing parts. Some vehicles are difficult to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to and others are hard to get access to fuel injector connectors. I've had some where the injectors were hard to get to but the ECM wasn't. So I unplugged the ECM and energized the injectors right there. The part number for this tool is OTC 3398. It's cheap and effective.