Forging a Chasing Hammer from a Demolition Chisel

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  • Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
  • Today's misadventure takes us through many of the ways to screw up while making a hammer, and how to fix those mistakes.
    My newest addition to the collection is used for adding detail and texture to sheet metal sculpture while working in odd positions, and inside deep cavities.
    The first real test of the new forge hood and coal forge modifications has proved an amazing success! Forge gets hotter than before, it's more controllable, and the hood and ventilation system sucks up more heat, keeping the shop cooler and the air cleaner.
    Thank you for all your support, and I hope you stick around to see the making of the eye in my thumbnail later this week, and whatever adventure I dive into next!

Комментарии • 14

  • @FarmsteadForge
    @FarmsteadForge Год назад +2

    You are pretty handy with sheet metal - looks like the hammer turned out nice!

  • @SchysCraftCo.
    @SchysCraftCo. Год назад +1

    Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. It's coming along nicely so far. Forge On. Keep forge lit. Keep making. God bless.

  • @epicname1549
    @epicname1549 Год назад

    Well done

  • @Vikingwerk
    @Vikingwerk Год назад +2

    Nice work!
    I make a lot of tool handles (abet not particularly well)
    I like to use salvaged handles off other things, like broken axe and shovel handles; there is usually 2-3 hammer handles worth of good wood left in them, as they usually get broken at the head of the tool.
    I have been known to buy the occasional new shovel handle to make hammer handles from as well, as a shovel handle costs about the same as a factory hammer handle, but with 3-4 times as much wood in a shovel handle!

    • @strangeblacksmith
      @strangeblacksmith  Год назад

      That's a great idea! I have a few broken shovel handles I can probably repurpose.

  • @TalRohan
    @TalRohan Год назад +1

    I think I would have started off with a seven lb hammer I have there was a lot of rebound with the dogs head. I have some truck leaf spring and a couple of bits of train coil spring that need some serious muscle to make them move much more than a mm or two at a time
    your chisel looks like briliant stuff for a hammer though.
    Something you can do with paralell eye hammers is extend the handle above the top so it splays out and pushes the head down against the neck of the handle ....not the best looking solution but it does work very well

    • @strangeblacksmith
      @strangeblacksmith  Год назад +1

      Oof, 7 pounds is WELL out of my comfort zone. Lol This stuff moves like H13. I have one tiny piece left I'm going to make a smaller planishing hammer that's going to need a lot of drawing done.

    • @TalRohan
      @TalRohan Год назад

      @@strangeblacksmith I'd like to see you do that, will you be filming ?
      7 is top end for me but I don't have a power hammer or press and no one that can strike for me either so its all on me lol

  • @y-notforge8913
    @y-notforge8913 Год назад +1

    ..was this a jackhammer bit? if so most of them i've run across are S7, tuff stuff. Nice job on catching the twist. Hammer looks like it moves metal perty well. Good job sir...!!

    • @strangeblacksmith
      @strangeblacksmith  Год назад +1

      No, it was a very old handheld chisel for breaking stone or concrete with a sledgehammer. It's probably some sort of spring steel, quite tough when normalized, but not hard.
      Thanks for watching!

    • @jhcc289
      @jhcc289 Год назад +1

      My understanding is that jackhammer bits are typically made from 4140 chromoly steel, which has great toughness and is a LOT less expensive than S7.
      It seems that someone noted in a metallurgical publication some years ago (when S7 was first developed) or something similar that S7 would make a good steel for jackhammer bits, and someone else found that, assumed that it was actually being used that way, and included it as fact in some list of junkyard steels. That little bit of misinformation was subsequently repeated until people just assumed it was true, even though it never made sense to use an expensive high-alloy steel for a consumable application.
      Because S7 is an air-hardening steel, an easy way to test what steel your bit is made from is to heat it up to about 1750°F (orange) and let it cool naturally in still air. Then test it with a sharp file. If the file skates across the surface, the bit is probably S7. If it doesn’t, cut a small piece off the bit, heat it to about 1570°F (cherry red), quench it in oil, and repeat the file test. If the file skates, the bit is probably 4140.
      All that said, jackhammer bits make great hammers and hardy tools. For the latter application, the heavy collar on a 1-1/8” hex shank bit saves you a lot of upsetting to get a shoulder that fits nicely in the face of the anvil.

    • @y-notforge8913
      @y-notforge8913 Год назад

      ..that's some Good information there. Thanks, i do like to test a piece of unknown metal to see which way it needs to be done. the bit i have is air hardening...@@jhcc289