Time to Make The Button for The Integral | Knifemaking Tuesdays 124
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- On this Wednesday edition of Knifemaking Tuesdays, John goes over the process of making and designing the button for the new integral knife!
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You should install something similar to "probe Halo" protection ring that in the case of a probe going too far down or over would trip the styluses probe and error out before the probe's body touches the part.
I second this. Saved a probe from death two weeks after I installed some at work. At $40 its a no brainer
He mentioned that on the podcast last week.
We 3D printed halos for ours, don't pay $60
i designed one , and 3d printed it , its exactly 0,32 $ of filament cost for me @@Hogslam
I was just about to say the same thing just ordered them for the boys in work because a probe crashed a few weeks ago
You're hard working my man. I have 4 of your knives, love them all. Keep up with this great design. I'll get in line for this new knife.:))
Thanks!
The Fox Radius in titanium is one of my favourite knives, Getting big vibes of it from this integral
Regarding the assembly, what some other knifemakers do is mill a pocket into one side of the blade to accept the bearing cage, that would certainly make it easier to assemble
Really fascinating stuff, thanks for sharing this process. I never really knew how finicky the design of this kind of mechanism could be, and how many variables you could potentially play with to change the behavior and feel.
Need a ball rolling in a hemispheric socket with the spring pushing both into a raceway on the blade for smoothness. Relieve the spring seat to release the blade.
It's an extra part. But you're Grimsmo. 😊 Whatever it takes.
So so so stoked on the Willemin content. Favorite machine in the whole industry by far. Thank you for bringing us along. I desperately want to get behind the control of one of these.
I humbly propose you consult Robin about your button detent geometry and metallurgy, perhaps you could also make the button bore a through hole to avoid the junk in the hole problem, or maybe you could mill through as part of the handle pattern and leave sort of a ‘drain cover’ looking feature that would allow small particles to escape while also adding detail.
Wow you guys are taking these knives onto a whole new precision tolerance. The engis hyprez system will remove even down to 0.1 micron level if you need that level of flatness. Love the video you been making, its very informative and how you go for an idea to mass production. Keep it up.
John, long time viewer here (10+ years). I really admire your passion and talent. Just a thought: if you are worried about the knife rubbing against the lower part of the button, how about using ball bearings on the interface? Or even allow the whole button to spin freely on it main axis? Probably not practical, but, in theory, it would allow for minimum friction on the button-blade interface.
Look into kolsterising to harden the button. It’s a case hardening method for stainless that doesn’t dimensionally or visually alter the part, but boy is it hard..
INTERESTING! Did a bunch of research, found a Bodycote location nearby that claims to offer the service. Will investigate! Thanks!
A slight blend of the detent edges to the slot might allow the blade to flick open. I think that edge may be cutting or at least galling just a tad. 3 degrees sure is within the locking taper range, have to see how it plays out in this application. Enjoy the hot noodle bowls, toss some Sichuan shrimp in for a bonus kick! Good to see the videos flowing again!
Can't you induction heat treat just the part that locks the blade ? and leave the button shiny ?
I'm wondering if you've considered doing wood inlays as something added to your repertoire? I noticed you have an old video featuring wood inlays, but that didn't go anywhere from what I can see? I can imagine it would be at a lot of complexity in production, but it would be quite unique as wood inlays are unfortunately quite rare in modern high-end knives
Hey John, I have 6 brother speedios and know what you mean when it doesn’t listen to feedrate override. best thing to do is to just open the door and it stops the machine in its place.
Come on man, go full Grimsmo. Buy a tool grinder and make the lock buttons out of tungsten carbide!
Hi John, around 45:30 , you're talking about how the pocket depth in the blade determines the detent strength.
Don't forget that your current relation between detent strength and pocket depth exists because the button has a fillet and not a chamfer (deeper pocket -> stronger detent, caused by change in 'contact angle' between button and blade).
A possibilty could be to give that part of the button a chamfer instead of a fillet, it would make the detent strength independent of blade pocket depth, this might be easier to tune by changing the angle on the button.
(That's assuming your spring has a pretty constant spring rate.)
Unless I am not seeing correctly how you try to design the detent mechanism, in that case, never mind. ;)
39:40 Maybe some 4140(or 4340) heat treated steel as base material, then nitriding ? That gets you a pretty tough steel part with a good surface hardness and a nice matte grey finish.
Nitriding "sticks" really well to those alloys too
Watching you struggle with the bearing cages reminded me of the old-fashioned plastic coin carriers designed to carry loonies that had a "spring" loaded lever built in to hold the coins. A thin knife shaped piece of plastic with detents for the bearing cages would push them into place and then slide the metal blade in after removing the plastic one. Just an idea. Wish I could afford one of your knives... awesome work tho
Can’t wait to watch Nick Shabazz disassemble this knife.
Sucks 'bout the probe! but it happens and im sure you're over it already.
Loving the series man. Thanks for sharing as always.
Yep, he already has a new one in the shop
awesome video!
Why not mount the mo stick on the pallet so you always have it when you grind blades.
“Wednesday Edition” 😎
Anything under 5 degrees is considered a "Locking Taper"... Also a material called Super P-20 would be a great material for the button. It's a prehard with a lot of Tensil Strength
Dang Johnny, only 8 years after I gave you my Benchmade button lock as a sample.
Ha! Good things take time.
How about making the stop pin out of carbide...have them custom ground. That would be the end of your wear problem...
Can you put the dressing rod on one of your empty pallets, in it's own fixture?
Could, but I want a permanent solution that's out of the way of everything so I never have to think about it again.
I've been watching videos for some time and am very impressed with the products you put out. Thanks for the update.👍👍
Maybe you can do a hard chrome plating on that machined button. It is like 65hrc and only a few microns thick and perfectly matched to the machined geometry.
With all the prototyping you're doing it's a wonder you haven't had more crashes. Things like that will happen sooner or later.
*I appreciate the update.* *I would like the opportunity to purchase a Rask.*
AXE THE TAX! Pierre for PM
There is a parameter in the Blum userparatab program to disable the feed and rapid override ignore functionality of the Blum macros.
Why didn't you machine the button in the opposite direction? Great video. More willy video's.
Any reason why you don't put the bearing recess in the blade instead of the handle? Not only would it make assembly easier I imagine it's going to be easier to machine as well.
I would QPQ nitride finish the lock button. I think I would give the dome some concentric ribs so it's more tactile when locating it with your thumb.
Maybe nitride the pivot to match (it creates a black exterior).
But my main question is why don't you machine the button with the button head side in the collet? If the two medium diameters match you could turn it around and stick it in another collet to finish the head.
To install the bearings make a tapered drift with a maximum size that matches the pivot hole and a section just under the bearing I.D. then 3D print an install tool that's as thick as the blade, with a hole the size of the bearings and a slot the size of the bearing I.D. from the hole centerline down the length of the handle and make the sides of that slot a tapered wedge from 0.000" at the bearing hole to blade width at the end. So load bearings in tool, place in handle, insert drift and then pull out the tool to press the bearings outward, remove the drift and then slide the blade in while you slide the tool out.
Lastly, if you keep getting those witness marks, either ream the holes before you profile the handle exterior or use a dipper EDM to get the hole to finished depth.
My heart breaks when I see a smashed spindle probe. Sorry for your loss 🫡
Can I use "Probe carefully my friends - J. Grimsmo" on a t-shirt??
But seriously, my soul flentched when i saw the probe in hand... some leason are expensive.
Love it man
nice banner
Can you radius the closed position hole on the blade instead of the shoulder of the button?
He should probably do both, at least on the part where the detent is formed.
Very detail and interesting video. By the way, no one in the machine shop should ever wear a hoodie with drawstrings hanging out. I see both of you have this going on. A few years ago young man in my hometown was pulled into a lathe and killed by his drawstrings.
If you are going to run multiple controls, you have to keep them straight. If you are running a new cycle, always keep your hand on the feedhold. Seems like a back to basics wakeup.
With Blum probing macros. Depending on the cycle you specify, the 0.1" you type IS how far down it moves incrementally. One thing Im not a fan of with blum macros, is how many different cycle can be ran with the same sub macro call just with different variable values, which fat fingering can sometimes have grave consequences.
Also, the feedrate knob SHOULD control the probing speed, atleast it does with version V3A and V4A Blum software
Are those probe stylus standard with the bloom?
And i'm mad when i broke my 60$ Haimer tip ahah
EDIT: In my book, the button need to be at 60-ish, like the blade. Like you do with your AEB-L lock insert.
Do you ever consult with Nick Shabazz on design tweaks
you are smart and amazing :)
You are awesome! DM'z fo' sure:)
Would it be possible to add a ceramic ball to the contact point on the button?
I've spent a lot of years wondering that too, but no I don't think so, since the button can rotate and the interface between the detent surface and the lock surface is so close together, makes it too tricky.
You need a Old Boys Halo
Dude I crashed a probe 11 years ago and still don't know what went wrong.
Love it! But how many time can you say that you're peck grooving😂
Intrigued… ^^
Do we know the name yet?
Use an indicator, not a probe.
I've destroyed a probe before. It happens, don't beat yourself up over it, it's just a part of machining. I fudged my decimal and instead of going down 0.500" I entered 5.000" and had the exact same results
My wife tells me to probe carefully.
at ruclips.net/video/Ev3a49Xy3bw/видео.html a 3d printed wedge would help. a shaft and a wedge..
ha, this is a cheese knife
Please get a camera with good autofocus. I love your videos but its been a struggle for like a decade. Lol
For all the insane knife detail, this is literally a setting on the existing camera. I love my knife and pen, but Lord does this drive me nuts. 😂