@@m3nameisjosh464 hey josh, i got a kinda dumb question, but im not a native speaker so ig its okay haha. When you say blower motor, are you talking of the ac compressor? So the thing which is connected to the crankshaftoutput sepperately?
Door rust tip is good. Also, what's worked for me, and will SLOW down rust on doors and prevent it.... spray Wurth HHS-K in the door drains so it runs out of the other end. Corrosion Block also works too. Used both. Have used a tooth-pick to allow to spray it allow the seal on the exterior of the lower door seal. I've used my E34 in the salty winter for 12 yrs. and it looks better than most E34s I've seen.
Very helpful video 👍, so far I only know you , stachecam and justish talk about e34 tips and trick , we need more e34 content creator , e34 just one of best looking Bmw ever
Love the information you gave on these cars! Even as an E34 owner for more than 10 years I found useful tips - like the one for the seat twist fix. Sometime seat twist is due to the frame of the back of the seat rusting and cracking along the weld, that is not an easy fix at all though. One small tip - if you have the time to prepare for the video beforehand and split it into several takes based on topics or areas of the car would make it much more structured, because wandering with the cam around the garage, opening doors just to point in the general area of where something is and how it would presumably look is a little bit distracting. Would elevate the level of content greatly, imho. Would require more post-processing tho. Gonna sub, because E34 content : )
Thank you for producing this! I've fixed everything on the car except for - rusting door base bottoms, sagging rear window clips, and twisting seats! These are common issues, and dealers charge an arm and a leg for the work. Been driving my since 2003 as a daily driver. 95 525i 230k miles. Upstate NY - rust is prevalent but managed. Frame is solid... did some touchup welding this year, but door bottoms need to be fixed again after 6 years... last (first) time was in 2015.
I had same problems with the rust on the lower side of the front doors and removed those trims (M-Technic on your sedan) they have metal reinforcement inside them that rust and transfer the rust to the door. Replaced them with normal ones (much cheaper even genuine) like the ones you have on the touring.
Don’t forget the BMW cooling system all of them have plastic pumps expansion tanks that crack and other bits that will crack and shatter especially with age and heat. If memory serves me the valeo transmission / radiator combo can cross contaminate and get you a strawberry surprise. Lastly General Motors made the automatics so there’s good domestic parts and support and reasonable cost.
Worse than the lower door clips is the jacking points that rust out and can make rust that goes all the way into the floor weld. Also getting a new E34 if you want it rustfri, lift up all the floorcarpet under the doors, serten places there they really like to rust out. Also the wells behind the seats infront of the backseats. Also, do change gearbox fluids when get it, many bmw owners are lazy and ever change it. Also, if get a wagon with the moon roof, know it has a tendency to leak, as well as if the motor running it breaks its a terrible job most BMW dealerships refuses to touch for a reason. Use whitegrease and keep the moonroof (or also aunroofs) clean and lubricated with white grease to not wear out the motors faster. Also, if get a M20 car, change the timing belt right away and don't let the engine tick, its a very easy job to adjust the valves, ticking can cause some damage to the engine that is not very enjoyable fixing. Also, long term, low spec can be great spec, as escape loads of things that will break on you. But overall E34s are great cars, just know the amout of wires from the earliest models to the last one has over double as many wires, something that is not great when it's aging. Had a 88 mod and a 95 mod E34. The 88 is simple as a E30, my 95 model had wires closer to that of a E39.
To help preserve the lower door trims. On a dry day clean the seams both sides with brake and clutch cleaner. Then smooth a small bead of clear silicone in the seam and wipe of the excess. Take off the inner door card and spray some dynex corosion inhubitor or equivalent along the lower inside. This puts a barrier between any rain that gets past the window seals and runs down the inside of the doors. Be sure not to block the drain. Apply grease the the window motor mechanism whilst in there.
This is driving me crazy. There is no “brake sensor” that fails. It is the loom around the hinge on the trunk/hatch. Also, brake wear sensors rarely actually fail. They should be changed every time you change the pads, but it is uncommon to have problems with them. If all 4 windows die at the same time, it is not the general module. It is the fusable link. Note on the blower motor: the ONLY reputable brand left is the genuine bmw part. The VDO units dont even fit and and behr ones are no longer made. You are correct on the cabin air filters though. They are a “every oil change or 6 months” type deal. Also note that the rust issues you have brought up are mostly unique to the m-tech sills. So that means cars with the m-tech package, m5’s, and all 1995 model years. The others dont have that trim on the bottom of the door and dont have near as much issue. Also, the sill covers themselves are just as good at holding water at the back of the front wheel wells and causing the fender to rust out. As for coolant level warnings: they are a simple problem with a simple fix. The coolant level sensor, particularly on the m20 and m50 cars LOVES to collect all the sediment in the cooling system. Flush the whole system (supposed to change the coolant every 2 years according to bmw anyway) and change the sensor. Then make sure the connector going into it is clean. Honestly, it is split 50/50 between that connector causing the issue and the sensor being dead. I feel the need to remind you that you forgot to mention the moosehead engineering thrust arm bearings as a permanent solution to the 55mph shimmy (which btw, can appear much sooner with larger wheels). You also forgot to mention the nasty habit of these cars ripping apart the rear STM’s when on lowering springs. Didnt address the simple diagnostics like the hidden codes on the OBC that let you look at things like raw fuel flow, bus voltage, and speed sensor outputs, or the stomp test. The fact that sunroof drain issues are often caused by lack of use of the sunroof and that simply blowing them out and using the sunroof more will almost always prevent these issues. Looks like im going to have to make my own one of these.
Dude such a great and helpful video ! Left a note on a 1994 530i e34 touring (islandgrün metallic) and the owner called me and we struck a deal! Picking it up in a couples days and this video is just what I needed, thanks again!!
ESD Regelt = you need to replace or resolder your CCM Also, if you wanna drive standard then use the A/M switch. It's not the same as a stick, but it'll get you moving the way you want it to after a while (especially if yours stays stuck on "Manual" mode like mine does)
Thanks for this bro. I don’t have an E34 but have an E36 and the brake light circuit message is always on. It just confused me lol. Once in a while the low coolant level warning will show but coolant is fine. Was worried at first because I know that is the number 1 mechanical issue with them but thanks for shedding some light on this. Not something someone usually talks about with Bimmer videos.
wtf, severel e34 folks here complaining about the wrong failure prompts... just pull the cables off from both of your servomotors for headlight range adjustment. Had to google that, in german they are called Leuchtweiteneinstellmotoren :-) Even if they still work, they cause all the "pings"... In fact, this is a quote common issue.
Super useful tips, I especially need to take care of the seat, control arms at 60mph, and window not working. Could you clarify regarding the window clips you mentioned what part number or where they are located etc. Thanks, man - the amount of helpful info packed in one video is just unreal!
Why do I have it stuck in my head that that the 55mph shimmy is usually more the LCAs than then UCAs? When I did my E32 change recently, I got the Meyle HD Lowers and Lemforder UCAs .. I think? LoL Great Video! I can't believe I haven't seen this till today. And add me to the list of those who didn't know about the secret hood latch. Is that really ONLY in narrow grill cars? Now I need to look at my 540 and my 740..
In my experience its always been UCAs. Ive never even changed LCAs on one of these cars. Every time I get the shimmy, new UCAs and its gone! But apparently the hood latch is actually on wide noses too! Just harder to get to
Love the 525iT...love the looks and in my favorite color; white. Looks so good with the M-parallel wheels. Would love to have one just like that in my garage.
I got scared a few times as my '92 525i didn't start but it wasn't the crank sensor but the ... auto shifter forgot on Drive :) I cleaned the area around that infamous resistor - very bad design for the car as all the debris are getting inside and reach down through those vents from the bottom of the windshield - right after I bought the car 8 years ago. From the beginning smoke was coming from the dash so I was lucky mine didn't catch fire.
I cannot get my bonnet open I have a UK e34 and just can't get it undone but thank you for the tip, if you could make a more detail version of opening the bonnet I'd really appreciate it
That secret latch trick does work on the wide nose, you just have to use a screwdriver and stick it in between the grill and the hood, after that you have to flip it left, and then the hood will pop
i just manual swapped mine after watching your video. it was hilarious because i would struggle with the same shit you were. currently i’m having some clutch issues, your video definitely helped though
@@m3nameisjosh464 turns out the dude who sold me the swap kit gave me a getrag 220 and i used a getrag 260 clutch kit. the throw out was too long, causing the issue. so stupid
b40 intake, cat back, and a chip is night and day difference for a b30. If you can find the stuff cheap the sound of the 3 litre with that setup is super cool and your making around 240hp with the right chip.
Yet I don’t know about rust problems but what I know for fact is that I must take care of E34 :D. Only thing bothering me are these error codes and the most regular for me is “ washer fluid level” :D 3.5l tank is too small for me
One of my rear tail light went out and none of my rear lights worked changed it and good I still have the fog light coolent level and brake lining on my dash but all those have been checked all is good still running Strong 177kmi definitely check before you ignore to be safe
Man , I am so glad I stumbled into your videos on 525 I , I have bought 1993 Manual transmission for one of my assistants few years back , I really never drove it , till now . I love the car , I took the Cats out , couple days ago it’s sounds wonderful, but the other day I was driving it pretty fast I would say about 100 mph , I had to shift down to 4 gear by mistake , I slammed it into 2nd gear for a second and after that the car kind of acted up , like very low power , , I shifted to 3 rd still very low power . So I stoped the car turned it of , got out of the car there was smoke coming out of the rear right tire , I believe the break , any how car was not hot , I checked the oil , was low by 1/4 or so .unfortunately did not have oil on me so I thought I will start it and go to next gas station , got back in the car and now car cranked very weak like low battery even my battery is new . Any how car would not start ,, end up towing it , and the tow guy tells me it sounds like blown motor . Mind you I did not hear any knock or rods going into the block or any loud noise then he mentored , timing belt . Today I will check it , but now after watching your video you mentioned something about crank sensor . Could that be the issue ? or if timing belt broke . Is that mean engine is blown .? Thanks
OUCH, so sounds to me like the infamous “moneyshift” so you overrevved the engine and the pistons hit the valves and bent them. Which means essentially your head is blown up and needs replacement.
My stripped 530i 5 speed alright. I have a b40 intake/full exhuast tho and a tune so that actually woke it up a good amount. But for a cheap drift car it gets the job done 😂 need a b40 tho 😅
Thanks man for making this video. Covered some really important points, some which I never knew about. You have some cool cars. Cool to see E34s all over the world. Got my first one in Germany. Are parts still easily available in USA for E34s?
@@m3nameisjosh464 Ok awesome, thats cool. I hope their are many E34s still in USA. Over here in Germany there are still many and most still in good condition and going up in value. Anyways looking forward to future videos
@@m3nameisjosh464 yeah, now its 4, found a extremely rust free alpina white one way out in nowhere I bought from a nice man in his 70s, first year 88 model:) new summer car
Hi guys, please advise me on fuel consumption on 1995 e34 TDS automatic. I live in a country where we don't have the best of quality of fuel .. I want to know what realistically to expect in the city and mixed. Thanks in advance
i have had 2 e36 bmws and brake light circuit alarm was on both. it would flash like it was a big deal but it's just bmw's non wired screw in contact lighting system that sucks.
I never knew that you can open the bonnet from front, its a great tip mate, you nicely explained everything, by the way I have an E34 V8 530i, Also now I know that why its too slow though its a V8, but i love all E34s, I had E34 535, 525 x 2, all sold, now I have the V8 one, hope I will be able to get some parts down to Melbourne. By the way mate from where are you?
@@m3nameisjosh464 because this car is super rare and it has a lot of unique parts, which is difficult or impossible to find. Like frontal CV Join, I found only refurbished at price point 1300$ for one piece and I need two.
super useful video man thanks. my e34 makes a weird almost constant buzzing sound from what i think is the vent on the dash. any idea what that could be?
@@m3nameisjosh464 Cool, thanks. I think I'll make the two hour drive to check it out. If it's been in florida it's whole life like I think it has, it should be good
Next edition, speedometer jumping around - sensor at the diff? I’ve seen 2 e34’s with incorrectly wired aftermarket radios that do not work - show how yours is hooked up?
I’ve got an e34 and the Speedo doesn’t work. Revs are shown extremely high, temperature gauge is always red and speed is always 0. Any ideas as to what it could be?
Hi, I wonder if you know of any video about replacing the vans oil line for a 1995 BMW 525i (E34). I was not able to get to the lower bolt because there is not enough room to fit a socket over it. Thank you!
Okay so 530i is as slow as 525i, what about the 535i compared to 540i? Are they both similar? Or the V8 4.0L makes huge difference as you said? And thanks for the video very appreciative 🙏
@@m3nameisjosh464 I'm working in 2 places currently so I can afford the car plus some customization (rims, skirts becouse they are rusty and new seats)
Nice vid....I have a 1989 e34 m20b25 auto with original untouched engine and transmission...the blower fuse under the hood melted ...any idea why?...I have not used the blower motor at all since then.
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Useful tip about opening the bonnet ( hood as you guys say ) owned my e34 for 20 years and never new that, great vid 👍🏾
Glad you learned something! Thank you!
@@mislavkonjik2827 e46! Haha , no I’m looking into an e34, you think they are going up in value?
@@m3nameisjosh464 hey josh, i got a kinda dumb question, but im not a native speaker so ig its okay haha. When you say blower motor, are you talking of the ac compressor? So the thing which is connected to the crankshaftoutput sepperately?
Door rust tip is good. Also, what's worked for me, and will SLOW down rust on doors and prevent it.... spray Wurth HHS-K in the door drains so it runs out of the other end. Corrosion Block also works too. Used both. Have used a tooth-pick to allow to spray it allow the seal on the exterior of the lower door seal. I've used my E34 in the salty winter for 12 yrs. and it looks better than most E34s I've seen.
Thank you for that!!!
@@m3nameisjosh464 Sure thing. A BMW Restoration shop gave me that tip 10 yrs. ago. The oilier it is, the more rust doesn't want to grow or start.
Very helpful video 👍, so far I only know you , stachecam and justish talk about e34 tips and trick , we need more e34 content creator , e34 just one of best looking Bmw ever
Yessir! Those are my buddies! Its a slept on car
Love the information you gave on these cars! Even as an E34 owner for more than 10 years I found useful tips - like the one for the seat twist fix. Sometime seat twist is due to the frame of the back of the seat rusting and cracking along the weld, that is not an easy fix at all though. One small tip - if you have the time to prepare for the video beforehand and split it into several takes based on topics or areas of the car would make it much more structured, because wandering with the cam around the garage, opening doors just to point in the general area of where something is and how it would presumably look is a little bit distracting. Would elevate the level of content greatly, imho. Would require more post-processing tho. Gonna sub, because E34 content : )
Thank you for the pointers man! Ive been working on creating more structured content especially for vids like this! Will be working on it
Thank you for producing this! I've fixed everything on the car except for - rusting door base bottoms, sagging rear window clips, and twisting seats! These are common issues, and dealers charge an arm and a leg for the work. Been driving my since 2003 as a daily driver. 95 525i 230k miles. Upstate NY - rust is prevalent but managed. Frame is solid... did some touchup welding this year, but door bottoms need to be fixed again after 6 years... last (first) time was in 2015.
That rust life I know nothing about 😓 but now I know, that must suck
Must be nice bro🤧
Cali shit lmao
Heyy
Yo Stache make a video on how to prevent the rust my guy
@@kif02 WTF is rain!!!!!!!!!
Happy to be a west coaster - and both of my e34s are rust free!
Only thing better than an e34 is an e24.
💯
sharky boi 🔥🔥🔥
I had same problems with the rust on the lower side of the front doors and removed those trims (M-Technic on your sedan) they have metal reinforcement inside them that rust and transfer the rust to the door. Replaced them with normal ones (much cheaper even genuine) like the ones you have on the touring.
Don’t forget the BMW cooling system all of them have plastic pumps expansion tanks that crack and other bits that will crack and shatter especially with age and heat. If memory serves me the valeo transmission / radiator combo can cross contaminate and get you a strawberry surprise. Lastly General Motors made the automatics so there’s good domestic parts and support and reasonable cost.
Thanks Bro 😎
Bought a 535i manual 1989 factory original this year.
Most beautiful car I’ve driven..
535s are awesome!
Awesome man hope you drive it and love it like it should be
Thanks brew 🙏
Worse than the lower door clips is the jacking points that rust out and can make rust that goes all the way into the floor weld. Also getting a new E34 if you want it rustfri, lift up all the floorcarpet under the doors, serten places there they really like to rust out. Also the wells behind the seats infront of the backseats. Also, do change gearbox fluids when get it, many bmw owners are lazy and ever change it. Also, if get a wagon with the moon roof, know it has a tendency to leak, as well as if the motor running it breaks its a terrible job most BMW dealerships refuses to touch for a reason. Use whitegrease and keep the moonroof (or also aunroofs) clean and lubricated with white grease to not wear out the motors faster. Also, if get a M20 car, change the timing belt right away and don't let the engine tick, its a very easy job to adjust the valves, ticking can cause some damage to the engine that is not very enjoyable fixing. Also, long term, low spec can be great spec, as escape loads of things that will break on you. But overall E34s are great cars, just know the amout of wires from the earliest models to the last one has over double as many wires, something that is not great when it's aging. Had a 88 mod and a 95 mod E34. The 88 is simple as a E30, my 95 model had wires closer to that of a E39.
Loads of great info here! Thanks man!
Looking to buy an E34 for 700 needs alot of work. I hope this video helps me figure out if that's the car I want for a project car
To help preserve the lower door trims. On a dry day clean the seams both sides with brake and clutch cleaner. Then smooth a small bead of clear silicone in the seam and wipe of the excess. Take off the inner door card and spray some dynex corosion inhubitor or equivalent along the lower inside. This puts a barrier between any rain that gets past the window seals and runs down the inside of the doors. Be sure not to block the drain. Apply grease the the window motor mechanism whilst in there.
Great advice!
I find it amazing that BMW has such a following.
Thanks a lot. Just bought 1994 M60 (scary) 530i automatic. The thing is so clean I had to have it....
This is driving me crazy. There is no “brake sensor” that fails. It is the loom around the hinge on the trunk/hatch. Also, brake wear sensors rarely actually fail. They should be changed every time you change the pads, but it is uncommon to have problems with them. If all 4 windows die at the same time, it is not the general module. It is the fusable link. Note on the blower motor: the ONLY reputable brand left is the genuine bmw part. The VDO units dont even fit and and behr ones are no longer made. You are correct on the cabin air filters though. They are a “every oil change or 6 months” type deal. Also note that the rust issues you have brought up are mostly unique to the m-tech sills. So that means cars with the m-tech package, m5’s, and all 1995 model years. The others dont have that trim on the bottom of the door and dont have near as much issue. Also, the sill covers themselves are just as good at holding water at the back of the front wheel wells and causing the fender to rust out. As for coolant level warnings: they are a simple problem with a simple fix. The coolant level sensor, particularly on the m20 and m50 cars LOVES to collect all the sediment in the cooling system. Flush the whole system (supposed to change the coolant every 2 years according to bmw anyway) and change the sensor. Then make sure the connector going into it is clean. Honestly, it is split 50/50 between that connector causing the issue and the sensor being dead. I feel the need to remind you that you forgot to mention the moosehead engineering thrust arm bearings as a permanent solution to the 55mph shimmy (which btw, can appear much sooner with larger wheels). You also forgot to mention the nasty habit of these cars ripping apart the rear STM’s when on lowering springs. Didnt address the simple diagnostics like the hidden codes on the OBC that let you look at things like raw fuel flow, bus voltage, and speed sensor outputs, or the stomp test. The fact that sunroof drain issues are often caused by lack of use of the sunroof and that simply blowing them out and using the sunroof more will almost always prevent these issues. Looks like im going to have to make my own one of these.
Jesus Tom thanks for the novel!
Rust is definitely NOT exclusive to m-tech sills. Normal trim rusts just as bad.
@@Xaocka so is my 1996 bmw 525i going to have these severe rust problems?
Getting my hands on a 535i 5speed this weekend with some dinan goodies, excited to be apart of the e34 cult🧛🏾♂️
Sweet
Thanks for getting me into e34s, just picked up a mint 525i for 5500. I’m so in love
Dude such a great and helpful video ! Left a note on a 1994 530i e34 touring (islandgrün metallic) and the owner called me and we struck a deal! Picking it up in a couples days and this video is just what I needed, thanks again!!
Awesome man! Congrats!!!
ESD Regelt = you need to replace or resolder your CCM
Also, if you wanna drive standard then use the A/M switch. It's not the same as a stick, but it'll get you moving the way you want it to after a while (especially if yours stays stuck on "Manual" mode like mine does)
Fire extinguisher in a car always a must
i have a 1990 Bmw 535i e34 all my doors are perfect no rust
Nice one on the 530 v8 tip. Actually I’m looking an e34 but rather wait till I find an 540.
Most useful video I’ve seen. Thanks for things to look for. If it all goes well I will have a e34 Tuesday
Did you get it how is it
Thanks for this bro. I don’t have an E34 but have an E36 and the brake light circuit message is always on. It just confused me lol. Once in a while the low coolant level warning will show but coolant is fine. Was worried at first because I know that is the number 1 mechanical issue with them but thanks for shedding some light on this. Not something someone usually talks about with Bimmer videos.
Thank you so much for the tips!!! I just got my e34 for my birthday and I rlly needed this!!
Happy birthday to you 💙
@@ALnuaimi007 thank you!
@@Jessica-hv7ve
You're welcome 😊
How old you are Jessica
@@ALnuaimi007 I am 17…why?
@@Jessica-hv7ve
I'm just asking and I apologize for the inconvenience with my question. I'm 22 years old and I'm from Iraq, do you know Iraq??
Love this video!! I just bought a real 525i shitbox who has several of those problems😅
Thanks, recently got a non-running 525 and hopefully the crank sensor is the issue.
The rust tip amazing info
I love my 93 e34 but boy does she give me issues from time to time lol I see brake lining and washer fluid message ever day but all works as it should
wtf, severel e34 folks here complaining about the wrong failure prompts... just pull the cables off from both of your servomotors for headlight range adjustment. Had to google that, in german they are called Leuchtweiteneinstellmotoren :-) Even if they still work, they cause all the "pings"... In fact, this is a quote common issue.
Super useful tips, I especially need to take care of the seat, control arms at 60mph, and window not working.
Could you clarify regarding the window clips you mentioned what part number or where they are located etc. Thanks, man - the amount of helpful info packed in one video is just unreal!
Appreciate it man! Part number for sliders is 51321938884.
@@m3nameisjosh464 thanks a lot!
Why do I have it stuck in my head that that the 55mph shimmy is usually more the LCAs than then UCAs? When I did my E32 change recently, I got the Meyle HD Lowers and Lemforder UCAs .. I think? LoL Great Video! I can't believe I haven't seen this till today. And add me to the list of those who didn't know about the secret hood latch. Is that really ONLY in narrow grill cars? Now I need to look at my 540 and my 740..
In my experience its always been UCAs. Ive never even changed LCAs on one of these cars. Every time I get the shimmy, new UCAs and its gone! But apparently the hood latch is actually on wide noses too! Just harder to get to
@@m3nameisjosh464 Well frankly if I’m under there I’m doing them both anyway. Now I’ve got to go back to FCP Euro and double check my memory 👍😆
I own a 95 540i. Good stuff to know! thank you
Love the 525iT...love the looks and in my favorite color; white. Looks so good with the M-parallel wheels. Would love to have one just like that in my garage.
Thanks man!
I borrowed my friends 91 535i for a few days and the cabin air filter caught fire 😂
LOL thats bad timing
I got scared a few times as my '92 525i didn't start but it wasn't the crank sensor but the ... auto shifter forgot on Drive :)
I cleaned the area around that infamous resistor - very bad design for the car as all the debris are getting inside and reach down through those vents from the bottom of the windshield - right after I bought the car 8 years ago. From the beginning smoke was coming from the dash so I was lucky mine didn't catch fire.
Nice video, good pointers. I’ve had my e34 535i 5 speed over fifteen year and most of your stuff was new to me
Happy to hear that!
I cannot get my bonnet open I have a UK e34 and just can't get it undone but thank you for the tip, if you could make a more detail version of opening the bonnet I'd really appreciate it
Electric seats and windows were the main issue on my 1993 e34. A all manual car like German taxis would be perfect😎
That secret latch trick does work on the wide nose, you just have to use a screwdriver and stick it in between the grill and the hood, after that you have to flip it left, and then the hood will pop
Didn’t know that! Awesome!!
@@m3nameisjosh464 believe me, I was mindblown too
Thanks buddy, good advises. I can confirm about thr rust on the lower part of the doors, sadly ✌
I own a E34 518i 4-cyl (M43B18) with 114 hp from 1995. A true DIY vehicle, that'll run (more like walk) for a very long time, if maintained. 👍
Should make a video on classic e34 wheels...you know, the old school joints
Style 5s all the way
Oz wheels, style 19.32.5 etc I could on and on
TOP FAVORITE! AC Schnitzer Type 2....18" staggered of courses....looking for some at this time...😍😍😍
Nice video bro! The #1 tip is great!
Thanks a lot man!!
best thing to come out of tic tok was this channel
I appreciate that big time bro!
Incredible video & content! Thanks so much for the excellent info - SUPER helpful!!
Thank you dave!!
Just changed my control arms on Sunday
Shakes gone. M50 is A great engine
Thanks for the shake pointer I bought some newer bmw wheels and it got better but on to the next only 176kmi
Nice video! I am going to have to go and check a few things , especially the hood catch on my 89. Thanks!
Clicked on this thinking it was the E39 i might be able to buy... still good info if I can't get it.
i just manual swapped mine after watching your video. it was hilarious because i would struggle with the same shit you were. currently i’m having some clutch issues, your video definitely helped though
Awesome to hear man!
@@m3nameisjosh464 turns out the dude who sold me the swap kit gave me a getrag 220 and i used a getrag 260 clutch kit. the throw out was too long, causing the issue. so stupid
@@munz3r thats super weird lmao
@@m3nameisjosh464 yea i’ll follow you on instagram and show you
Or you could do the b40 intake manifold swap on the b30 or even the b44 swap on a 530i
b40 intake, cat back, and a chip is night and day difference for a b30.
If you can find the stuff cheap the sound of the 3 litre with that setup is super cool and your making around 240hp with the right chip.
@@diltd3989 oh I know I have all of that on my 530i
Yeah definetly ways to make them more fun!
Yet I don’t know about rust problems but what I know for fact is that I must take care of E34 :D. Only thing bothering me are these error codes and the most regular for me is “ washer fluid level” :D 3.5l tank is too small for me
hahaha
Great video man! Super informative!
Thank you my friend!
One of my rear tail light went out and none of my rear lights worked changed it and good I still have the fog light coolent level and brake lining on my dash but all those have been checked all is good still running Strong 177kmi definitely check before you ignore to be safe
Great video! The hood trick is very helpful...did not know that one...😁😁😁
Glad I coud inform!
You are just a wealth of information, thanks for the video!
Appreciate it man! Happy to help!
Man , I am so glad I stumbled into your videos on 525 I , I have bought 1993 Manual transmission for one of my assistants few years back , I really never drove it , till now . I love the car , I took the Cats out , couple days ago it’s sounds wonderful, but the other day I was driving it pretty fast I would say about 100 mph , I had to shift down to 4 gear by mistake , I slammed it into 2nd gear for a second and after that the car kind of acted up , like very low power , , I shifted to 3 rd still very low power . So I stoped the car turned it of , got out of the car there was smoke coming out of the rear right tire , I believe the break , any how car was not hot , I checked the oil , was low by 1/4 or so .unfortunately did not have oil on me so I thought I will start it and go to next gas station , got back in the car and now car cranked very weak like low battery even my battery is new . Any how car would not start ,, end up towing it , and the tow guy tells me it sounds like blown motor . Mind you I did not hear any knock or rods going into the block or any loud noise then he mentored , timing belt . Today I will check it , but now after watching your video you mentioned something about crank sensor . Could that be the issue ? or if timing belt broke . Is that mean engine is blown .? Thanks
OUCH, so sounds to me like the infamous “moneyshift” so you overrevved the engine and the pistons hit the valves and bent them. Which means essentially your head is blown up and needs replacement.
I'm trading a set of 98 gsr brakes auto-manual conversion plus some more civic parts for a 1990 BMW 525i sedan automatic with title
Omg you help me when it comes to the front shake at 50-60mph
My stripped 530i 5 speed alright. I have a b40 intake/full exhuast tho and a tune so that actually woke it up a good amount. But for a cheap drift car it gets the job done 😂 need a b40 tho 😅
The Warning lights on mine go on when I drive above 75mph
Thanks for the tips man I have a 90 525i ,I'm looking for a left rear door
Best bet is to find a part out!
Would love a video of 1990 bmw 535i 5 speeds just got one and a lot of people say they are very rare
I want one!
Thanks man for making this video. Covered some really important points, some which I never knew about. You have some cool cars. Cool to see E34s all over the world. Got my first one in Germany. Are parts still easily available in USA for E34s?
I sell e34 parts so they are super easy for me to get my hands on haha. But otherwise id say the parts are widely available
@@m3nameisjosh464 Ok awesome, thats cool. I hope their are many E34s still in USA. Over here in Germany there are still many and most still in good condition and going up in value. Anyways looking forward to future videos
super useful thanks mate!
good tips!
Had 3 the last couple of years since my first one, as well as got my dad to have one for a while, hehe
haha Nice!
@@m3nameisjosh464 yeah, now its 4, found a extremely rust free alpina white one way out in nowhere I bought from a nice man in his 70s, first year 88 model:) new summer car
@@Anirossa sweet!
The hood latch trick works on my wide nose 540's 😁
REALLY!
@@m3nameisjosh464 yes sir.
Hi guys, please advise me on fuel consumption on 1995 e34 TDS automatic. I live in a country where we don't have the best of quality of fuel .. I want to know what realistically to expect in the city and mixed. Thanks in advance
i have had 2 e36 bmws and brake light circuit alarm was on both. it would flash like it was a big deal but it's just bmw's non wired screw in contact lighting system that sucks.
I never knew that you can open the bonnet from front, its a great tip mate, you nicely explained everything, by the way I have an E34 V8 530i, Also now I know that why its too slow though its a V8, but i love all E34s, I had E34 535, 525 x 2, all sold, now I have the V8 one, hope I will be able to get some parts down to Melbourne. By the way mate from where are you?
Thanks man! Im from Chicago
Keep up the great content man. Do the m30 motors known to burn oil and leaky?
Any 30 year old motor will leak. Shouldn’t burn oil though
i got a 520i with an m20 a 1988 model from germany. putting in an m50b25tu from a 93-94 car
good choice!
A BMW 1993 525i series and I put a body kit on it been trying to sell it
Looks like yours almost
Do you have a video on doing the engine mounted mount that raised the motor needed to have a lowered car?
Maybe in my earlier touring e34 build episodes
Oh I have a 530i sitting in the yard idk what year it is
Why not drill 2 small holes into that rubber peace under the door to help drain would that work?
Thank you very much. Best wishes.
Whatever you do don’t open the panoramic roof on the touring model. Don’t ask me how I know. 😀
Thanks mate honestly
Important tip on e34, don't by 525ix, never!
Why?? Hahahha
@@m3nameisjosh464 because this car is super rare and it has a lot of unique parts, which is difficult or impossible to find. Like frontal CV Join, I found only refurbished at price point 1300$ for one piece and I need two.
super useful video man thanks. my e34 makes a weird almost constant buzzing sound from what i think is the vent on the dash. any idea what that could be?
E34s buzz under dash for moments after turning off. It should stop
I found an 89 5 speed 535 with 146k on it for 4500.
What is a good price?
If rust free thats a very solid price
@@m3nameisjosh464 Cool, thanks. I think I'll make the two hour drive to check it out. If it's been in florida it's whole life like I think it has, it should be good
Next edition, speedometer jumping around - sensor at the diff? I’ve seen 2 e34’s with incorrectly wired aftermarket radios that do not work - show how yours is hooked up?
I have a video where I wire in an e34 head unit, far from my specialty though! Never actually had a bouncing speedo too, sensor in diff likely
Can you explain how to use the cruise control ?
I’ve got an e34 and the Speedo doesn’t work. Revs are shown extremely high, temperature gauge is always red and speed is always 0. Any ideas as to what it could be?
you need a new cluster
@@m3nameisjosh464 tried
three new clusters and still no luck
@@AminVlogs1 Well I suppose your diff speed sensor could be broken, but then the red temp sensor would be another issue
Hi, I wonder if you know of any video about replacing the vans oil line for a 1995 BMW 525i (E34). I was not able to get to the lower bolt because there is not enough room to fit a socket over it. Thank you!
Okay so 530i is as slow as 525i, what about the 535i compared to 540i? Are they both similar? Or the V8 4.0L makes huge difference as you said?
And thanks for the video very appreciative 🙏
540 is significantly faster than all other e34 models.
This is going to be My first car. cuz i got it free. i am 15 years
Ay man Im a 16 yrs old boy soon 17 so I (hopefully) can drive. Should I buy a 520 e34 sedan? I would buy pretty cheap one so I learn to fix on cars
Go for it!
@@m3nameisjosh464 I'm working in 2 places currently so I can afford the car plus some customization (rims, skirts becouse they are rusty and new seats)
Hey brother got a 95 e34 525i I need some advice on wheel fitment
I have a 1989 525i,
Which is the better engine m20 or m40 ?
Nice vid....I have a 1989 e34 m20b25 auto with original untouched engine and transmission...the blower fuse under the hood melted ...any idea why?...I have not used the blower motor at all since then.
Resistor under dash or blower itself likely bad, you’re lucky it didn’t catch on fire!
Is that a Saratoga Glass Sun Roof!!!
Someone is selling me a 1990 525i and it has 260k miles. It’s had one owner but idk the engine life. PLEASE HELP ME :,) I really want the car
M20s can last beyond 300k if cared for, so make sure it has good service history!
@@m3nameisjosh464 thank you so much !! What’s a good price range for them? He is offering it to me for 4.5k
@@aaronhernandez7144 m20 cars arent worth over 2k realistically. At that mileage 4.5 is very high.
please make one on the m20b25 engine!
If only I had an M20s!
my whole life having an e34 i never have rust anywhere on the car is that normal?