This repair took forever because of all the problems and, while I have replaced parts in coffee macjhines before, this is the first one where I had to diagnose the problem. For thos interested the total cost of the repair was about £60 including carriage and VAT.
Hi my friend, and great video! :) What happened to your left hand? At about 24:30 a tremendous battle wound appears that seems to just have had stitches out :((
Now this is a real technician. Transistor level replacement and not the entire board. Now I have to do something like this in my BES990. Goodluck to me
Well nothing complicated about the board and even if you replace every part on it still half the price of a replacement - but I always prefer to fix not replace. The boards are readily available which makes me think it might be a weak point in the design!
@@MakeOrRepair , unfortunately for me the Oracle Touch BES990 120V version triac board is not available even if it seems to always break in almost all breville espresso machines in US as evident of forums complain. Australia has released the spareparts due in part to AU having a strict law on spareparts. But US, I just hope I can find the transistor and optoisolators available but thanks to your video, I have hopes. I might bother you later on the compatible or better replacement for the transistor/opto as it is way pass my knowledge. Again, thanks!
@@jserenity I would be surprised if the opto isolator could not just use the same one that mine did. And possibly the other triacs too. On mine the part numbers were clearly marked and I was able to find easy replacements - sometimes farnell and digikey actually tell you what they are if original is not available. Mouser seems to have discontinued stock slighly longer and RS online are anothe likely source. Even if your device is discontinued there is almost certainly something with the same base number. The main criteria to look at for the triacs are: peak repetative off state voltage,, the On-state RMS current, gate trigger current and voltage, gate power and peak non repetative surge current, perhaps peak on-state voltage. In a subsitute the big voltages and currents should be the same or higher and the gates around the same or perhaps a little lower - but certainly in the ball-park.
@@MakeOrRepair I just opened the machine and found that the soleniod is leaking and causing corrosion everywhere. The Triac board located on top was so affected that it develop corrosion on the com7 connector the size of a small coin touching several pin of the connector all the way to the optoIsolator. I can attemp to clean it and get the replacement isolators and transistors but I would rather replace the board if I can (which I cant). The transistors are: BTA06T-600CW Can I replace this with BTA08-800B? JST16A 600BW JST16A 600BW Which I found higher voltage JST16A-800BW. I can use this, right? Additionally, I cant find the exact soloniod model of CEME V399VN15PROY. I can only find CEME V397VN25PR44. Its 3 valve and almost looks and specs the same... Lastly, the thermal fuse so hidden. The hell I have to remove so many pipe just to replace it. I really appreciate your reply here
Perhaps a second hand non-working board that is in better condition from ebay? I too prefer to replace in these situations but perhaps all you can do is thoroughly clean, check the contacts are all good and isolated and go fronm there. Regarding JST16.... They are part of a series with the last number just indicating the voltage so no problems with your suggestion. BTA08-800BWRG would be the higher current/voltage replacement part so no problem, except ideally you should ideally have CW at the end, it means "35mA snubberless" but I used the BTA06-600BWRG without any problem which is 50mA snubberless. Snubberless is recommended for inductive loads and although heaters are mainly resistive I suggest keeping the original characteristic. You must use BTA and not BTB otherwise you will short circuit through the heatsink and case. I think the V397 has a threaded top connection but the 399 is push-fit, if you can'r get a replacement I think that someone like espresso part should be able to provide an equivalent, if not contact breville direct they do supply parts.
Mine failed in a similar way a few months ago. One of the optocouplers on the triac board failed-on, resulting in the steam boiler being stuck on - even when the machine was turned off! I was very lucky that the boiler somehow never overheated or ran dry, and the thermal fuse did not blow (which is a massive job to replace). I desoldered the faulty octocoupler and replaced it with a new one. The machine has been working well ever since. I must note, though, that the o-rings on the connections to the boiler always seem to need replacing every so often. A leak from one of these causing extremely high temperatures in the machine casing is likely what killed my triac board in the first place.
I replaced both the Q6015L6 and the single BTA06T-600CWRG, but the boiler is still powering while off and temp goes over 90degC so the buttons don't come on. I'm now guessing it's the opto couplers are shorted on as I have little left to choose to replace.
That would be my guess, the opto isolators should not be too hard to source. I think my description actually includes the part number I substituted which was a little higher rated.
@@MakeOrRepair damn it. I replaced all 3 opto-couplers and the off power temp has stopped but now it won't go to temp and stops at 75decC. so before it was over temp (same at 15:00) and now with opto-couplers replaced, it won't go to 90deg. wonder if I blew the triacs for not replacing the opto-couplers at the same time? I'm getting 101ohms between red and blue for hotwater.
@MakeOrRepair : What are the size of the two O rings? I am trying to find the correct O rings size so that I can buy them here in Denmark instead of waiting 30 days from China. I did find a shop that sells Sage / Breville O rings here in DK, but the price for one is the same as the full pack from China 🤔 so I am going to buy O rings without the Sage / Breville name.
Not easy to measure. The small red I measure outside diameter as 7.2mm and ring thicknesses as 1.75mm the larger blue I make 9.6mm od and 1.75 thick but just the best I was able to measure. And they need to withstand quite high temperatures.
I have an issue with ours that the steam wand pump starts running as soon as we switch on the machine, but is just running dry. I replaced the pump, but it seems fine, just keeps running dry. Any suggestions what to check?
Descaling soulds possible, just try draining the steam boiler using the little screws on the front. The output of the pump must go to some sort of pressure releif valve, so check that the water is not just cycling back into the hot water tank
Hey! I got a 2nd hand machine which is not working. When opening up (I was gentle) I saw to ripped wires. I guess these are temperature sensors as the machine never reaches 93 despite heating the entire time. Found a res wire from the "motherboard" which I thind the red wire was connected. But the blue one I have no idea. Can you help please? Thx
Hi, top work by the way, very helpful, my coffee machine as the same as thru one your working on, it's not despencing much water to the coffee side and it sounds like very louder than normal and not much water coming out at all, the hot water side is ok, any thoughts on the best place to start?
It might just be scaled up I suppose. Or the bypass valve possibly. If that is weak then water goes through the pump and directly back tot he water tank. There could be problems with other blockeage int he dispensing head, try taking the shower screen out just one screwn and give it a good wash. After that things get more complicated such as various solenoid valves.
Sorry it took a while to reply. To my recollection there was a mix of #2 and #1 in the back, #2 on the left, #1 where all the cables are bunched together. If you are having to buy them then get a pair with a normal 4-5 inch long shaft, not interchangable tips which have a wider shaft. They will then be useful for any recessed screws like the recessed ones in the front. They can be taken out with #2 but I think #1 is the right size.
Hi Pete, great video! However, my Oracle Touch sounds like it’s continuously releasing steam when it gets to that 93 Celsius point. Like a pot overboiling. And then it releases the water tank into the tray. Now, in the video, when you blow in that OPV, it sounds exactly like what’s going on. So want to replace that - However, the water releasing is the bit that worries me.. any idea what it could be? Or what I should also be looking at?
Well the opv that I replaced is more to do with an obstruction like over tamped coffee or limescale, so the pump delivers too much pressure. My guess would be that one of the heaters, perhaps steam, is running over temperature, and a safety valve later in the sequence is dumping the water in the tray. You could try replacing the ovp to ensure the pressure of delivered water is being limited, I would also check the triac board to ensure all the heaters are turning off when temperature is reached. I found d it tricky to trace our the "plumbing" so if those ideas don't help I would see if there are any suggestions on the site that I linked, and also there are some forums, try searching under both sage and breville and also the model number as well as the type of machine.
12:52 Hello Peter- fantastic video! You helped me trouble shoot my beloved Oracle. I placemarked this part of the video to reference that i have a leak of hot water that is between the grinder and the boiler. In this shot, it appears to be directly below the yellow wire. I hear steam hissing and can see a small amount of water accumulating in the bottom of the Oracle. Before I subject my pocketbook to Breville repair service, i was wondering if the part is even accessible without tearing the machine apart? Thanks in advance!
Well, hard to say, not quite sure which part is leaking. I think there is a solenoid valve in that area and possibly a pipe to the side. I would have a look around and see exactly where the leak originates, it might be there is an easy to remove part that will give enough access. If is a temp sensor or pipe, you might be able to get to clip and replace oring using long bent nose pliers or forceps.
No sorry, I avoid these except family/friends and charity since i retired, don't wan to further complicate my tax or have to deal with additional rates, insurace etc
I think it could be several things. It is worth testing the fuse - see section wheere I tested resistance of elements, if fuse is gone it will be open circuit, but keep in mind that you are also measuring the triac board at same time. A different type of failure on triac board could be a problem too. I think the site that I mentioned and linked in descripion might have more on the "not reaching temperature" problem
Hi - how many ohms should I expect for the grouphead wire? Currently getting an error code for it following changing the components on the triac board - I lifted a pad when desoldering one of the octocouplers so I think thats the reasons. I checked with my ohms meter and the thermal fuses for water and steam read the same as yours and around 280 for the group-head wire (orange)
@@MakeOrRepair Hello - thanks for the reply and for the useful guide. I followed your steps and replaced the same components you did on the triac board. I tested the fuses and elements and all read ok. I managed to clear all fault codes but a new one popped up; Error 19 "Group head element operate for 5min (in start−up mode) but group head heater EdC temperature not increase> 10degC". The machine now does not exceed 70 degrees Celsius. Steam and hot water work fine, but no water dispenses from the group head and I get 3 beeps when I try. I even went to replace the triac for the group head wire a second time as I had a spare, but that still didn't work. I tried numerous times to clear a potential air lock as many have reported this can cause this issue. I even went as far as filling the main boiler with water manually by removing the inlet hose to ensure there was no trapped air. Do you have any thoughts? I'm thinking I may have damaged the triac board but not sure.
Hey, I have a dual boiler; my issue is the same (temperature running beyond 93 degrees) the only difference is that I cannot steam, the hot water and the head for espresso are pouring water. I had a leak from the probes in the steam boiler. I tried to replace the tiny o-rings there but couldn't find the right ones. How can I know if the steam boiler is destroyed? Or should I just replace the probe kit and maybe the triac board? should the steam boiler be hot immediately? the main boiler for coffee is hot but I think that for the steam it takes more time and I cannot wait as the machine getting extremely hot... what do you think
I got the o rings from ebay searching for breville 9 o rings. I've seen them at several suppliers in the UK and US. you could get the probe kit as a last resort - check out the website I linked. But the probes are just stainless rods and unless actually damaged what is the point. To test the steam boiler, turn off and connect a multimeter across the element to read the resistance, similar to the way I did in the video (although this tests thermal fuses etc at the same time), but you can find the other end of the coloured wires on the element terminal itself as it enters the boiler and test that on its own. Triac seems likely but there are other possibilities like the NTC sensors for example and even certain valves could cause it if water is not going where it is supposed to! If you have a multimeter (even a cheap one) measure the voltage on the steam boiler terminals (the element) when the machine is in standby it should be nothing or near enough, when just switchin on it should be high voltage and then turn off at 93 on the coffee machine display. if there is a voltage then almost certainly faulty triac board. (mine was over 100V on a 240V supply) . You would have to do a search but your model MNIGHT include an engineers menu that displays the temperature of each seprate sensor, that would help get certainty if the sensors are alright. Hope that helps
@@MakeOrRepair WOW I can't thank you enough! that solved the problem (took some time to get the parts), I replaced the probe kit just to be safe as it leaked before, but as you said the new triac solved the issue... Unfortunately, now for some reason I have the 3 beeps issue where the steam boiler is not heating, I tried to turn on the machine where the RED or Blue cables are not connected to the probe (saw it on the internet, and it worked once before I got the new parts) but now it does not work, and the steam boiler doesn't get filled or heated (it gets filled only when I leave the steam wand open the red cable is not connected to the probe) any suggestions?
@yyy777able all you can do is trace voltages from triac board to steam boiler, check the thermal fuses are intact on that boiler.after that, not sure if there is a solenoid valve that might not be operational of of course the pump to the steam boiler. But it is sll guessing, just picking some things I would look at.
@@MakeOrRepair Hey! once more thank you for your help! Fixing the machine has been like running after my tail... I replaced the thermal fuse and now the steam boiler work perfect... but all of a sudden the Group head does not get hotter than 65, the hot water works, but I get err08 (Coffee Water Flow Failure) but I have no idea where to even look at it... before fixing the thermal fuse the coffee head worked well so I am not sure what I did that made it happen. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Pete, My Oracle Touch won’t come to ready state (Power button won’t stop blinking) and after some time it gives me ER12 - Porta Filter NTC short (Operation) error. I changed the Shower Head NTC sensor but to no avail. Can some other part be at fault? I mean other than PCB Triac board?
Not entirely sure, but I what I seemed to find was that there are heaters for steam, hot water and a separate one for the head itself, so there would be NTC sensors for each. I would suggest have a dig around and see if you can find them, then if you have a multimeter with ohms range check if any are reading short circuit or very low compared to the others. They can also proably short to the casing not just the two wires within the sensor.
Not sure what you are doing with yours, but this was my only repair in about 5-years. As dometstic machines go I've also tried delongi and Gaggia and both were far more plastic...
This repair took forever because of all the problems and, while I have replaced parts in coffee macjhines before, this is the first one where I had to diagnose the problem. For thos interested the total cost of the repair was about £60 including carriage and VAT.
Any idea why the steam wand casing would get loose and the whole assembly would fall?
@@ionut-mariusrosu8897 not really, but u would suspect plastic at top has failed or just some simple fastening worked loose
@MakeOrRepair looks like the joint between the plastic at the top and the metal "casing." It also looks like the steam is travelling up the tube
Hi my friend, and great video! :) What happened to your left hand? At about 24:30 a tremendous battle wound appears that seems to just have had stitches out :((
Thanks a million, replaced blown opto isolator and triacs and my machine was back from the dead. 👍
Glad to hear
Thanks for a really informative walkthrough. I need to do the same to my dual-boiler Breville.
Thanks. I recommend taking a look at the site I mentioned. Lots of information there about many models
Now this is a real technician. Transistor level replacement and not the entire board.
Now I have to do something like this in my BES990. Goodluck to me
Well nothing complicated about the board and even if you replace every part on it still half the price of a replacement - but I always prefer to fix not replace. The boards are readily available which makes me think it might be a weak point in the design!
@@MakeOrRepair , unfortunately for me the Oracle Touch BES990 120V version triac board is not available even if it seems to always break in almost all breville espresso machines in US as evident of forums complain.
Australia has released the spareparts due in part to AU having a strict law on spareparts.
But US, I just hope I can find the transistor and optoisolators available but thanks to your video, I have hopes.
I might bother you later on the compatible or better replacement for the transistor/opto as it is way pass my knowledge.
Again, thanks!
@@jserenity I would be surprised if the opto isolator could not just use the same one that mine did. And possibly the other triacs too. On mine the part numbers were clearly marked and I was able to find easy replacements - sometimes farnell and digikey actually tell you what they are if original is not available. Mouser seems to have discontinued stock slighly longer and RS online are anothe likely source. Even if your device is discontinued there is almost certainly something with the same base number. The main criteria to look at for the triacs are: peak repetative off state voltage,, the On-state RMS current, gate trigger current and voltage, gate power and peak non repetative surge current, perhaps peak on-state voltage. In a subsitute the big voltages and currents should be the same or higher and the gates around the same or perhaps a little lower - but certainly in the ball-park.
@@MakeOrRepair
I just opened the machine and found that the soleniod is leaking and causing corrosion everywhere.
The Triac board located on top was so affected that it develop corrosion on the com7 connector the size of a small coin touching several pin of the connector all the way to the optoIsolator.
I can attemp to clean it and get the replacement isolators and transistors but I would rather replace the board if I can (which I cant).
The transistors are:
BTA06T-600CW
Can I replace this with BTA08-800B?
JST16A 600BW
JST16A 600BW
Which I found higher voltage JST16A-800BW. I can use this, right?
Additionally, I cant find the exact soloniod model of CEME V399VN15PROY.
I can only find CEME V397VN25PR44.
Its 3 valve and almost looks and specs the same...
Lastly, the thermal fuse so hidden. The hell I have to remove so many pipe just to replace it.
I really appreciate your reply here
Perhaps a second hand non-working board that is in better condition from ebay? I too prefer to replace in these situations but perhaps all you can do is thoroughly clean, check the contacts are all good and isolated and go fronm there.
Regarding JST16.... They are part of a series with the last number just indicating the voltage so no problems with your suggestion.
BTA08-800BWRG would be the higher current/voltage replacement part so no problem, except ideally you should ideally have CW at the end, it means "35mA snubberless" but I used the BTA06-600BWRG without any problem which is 50mA snubberless. Snubberless is recommended for inductive loads and although heaters are mainly resistive I suggest keeping the original characteristic. You must use BTA and not BTB otherwise you will short circuit through the heatsink and case.
I think the V397 has a threaded top connection but the 399 is push-fit, if you can'r get a replacement I think that someone like espresso part should be able to provide an equivalent, if not contact breville direct they do supply parts.
This video is AWESOME - Thank you New Tri-board replaced
Thanks, glad if it helped
Mine failed in a similar way a few months ago. One of the optocouplers on the triac board failed-on, resulting in the steam boiler being stuck on - even when the machine was turned off! I was very lucky that the boiler somehow never overheated or ran dry, and the thermal fuse did not blow (which is a massive job to replace). I desoldered the faulty octocoupler and replaced it with a new one. The machine has been working well ever since.
I must note, though, that the o-rings on the connections to the boiler always seem to need replacing every so often. A leak from one of these causing extremely high temperatures in the machine casing is likely what killed my triac board in the first place.
Yes, seems fairly common, and I agree about the o-ring replacement, I got a couple of spare packs while I could find them.
I replaced both the Q6015L6 and the single BTA06T-600CWRG, but the boiler is still powering while off and temp goes over 90degC so the buttons don't come on. I'm now guessing it's the opto couplers are shorted on as I have little left to choose to replace.
That would be my guess, the opto isolators should not be too hard to source. I think my description actually includes the part number I substituted which was a little higher rated.
@@MakeOrRepair damn it. I replaced all 3 opto-couplers and the off power temp has stopped but now it won't go to temp and stops at 75decC. so before it was over temp (same at 15:00) and now with opto-couplers replaced, it won't go to 90deg. wonder if I blew the triacs for not replacing the opto-couplers at the same time?
I'm getting 101ohms between red and blue for hotwater.
@MakeOrRepair :
What are the size of the two O rings?
I am trying to find the correct O rings size so that I can buy them here in Denmark instead of waiting 30 days from China.
I did find a shop that sells Sage / Breville O rings here in DK, but the price for one is the same as the full pack from China 🤔 so I am going to buy O rings without the Sage / Breville name.
Not easy to measure. The small red I measure outside diameter as 7.2mm and ring thicknesses as 1.75mm the larger blue I make 9.6mm od and 1.75 thick but just the best I was able to measure. And they need to withstand quite high temperatures.
I have an issue with ours that the steam wand pump starts running as soon as we switch on the machine, but is just running dry. I replaced the pump, but it seems fine, just keeps running dry. Any suggestions what to check?
Descaling soulds possible, just try draining the steam boiler using the little screws on the front. The output of the pump must go to some sort of pressure releif valve, so check that the water is not just cycling back into the hot water tank
Hey! I got a 2nd hand machine which is not working. When opening up (I was gentle) I saw to ripped wires. I guess these are temperature sensors as the machine never reaches 93 despite heating the entire time. Found a res wire from the "motherboard" which I thind the red wire was connected. But the blue one I have no idea. Can you help please? Thx
Not sure how I could help, you just have to trace the wires as best you can.
Thanks already got it!
Thanks 🎉 love this video
Thanks, always nice to hear!
Hi, top work by the way, very helpful, my coffee machine as the same as thru one your working on, it's not despencing much water to the coffee side and it sounds like very louder than normal and not much water coming out at all, the hot water side is ok, any thoughts on the best place to start?
It might just be scaled up I suppose. Or the bypass valve possibly. If that is weak then water goes through the pump and directly back tot he water tank. There could be problems with other blockeage int he dispensing head, try taking the shower screen out just one screwn and give it a good wash. After that things get more complicated such as various solenoid valves.
Hey - nice video. What is the size of the Philips head skrewdriver you use to on the buttom of the machine?
Sorry it took a while to reply. To my recollection there was a mix of #2 and #1 in the back, #2 on the left, #1 where all the cables are bunched together. If you are having to buy them then get a pair with a normal 4-5 inch long shaft, not interchangable tips which have a wider shaft. They will then be useful for any recessed screws like the recessed ones in the front. They can be taken out with #2 but I think #1 is the right size.
@@MakeOrRepair Thank you!
Hi Pete, great video!
However, my Oracle Touch sounds like it’s continuously releasing steam when it gets to that 93 Celsius point. Like a pot overboiling. And then it releases the water tank into the tray. Now, in the video, when you blow in that OPV, it sounds exactly like what’s going on. So want to replace that - However, the water releasing is the bit that worries me.. any idea what it could be? Or what I should also be looking at?
Well the opv that I replaced is more to do with an obstruction like over tamped coffee or limescale, so the pump delivers too much pressure. My guess would be that one of the heaters, perhaps steam, is running over temperature, and a safety valve later in the sequence is dumping the water in the tray. You could try replacing the ovp to ensure the pressure of delivered water is being limited, I would also check the triac board to ensure all the heaters are turning off when temperature is reached. I found d it tricky to trace our the "plumbing" so if those ideas don't help I would see if there are any suggestions on the site that I linked, and also there are some forums, try searching under both sage and breville and also the model number as well as the type of machine.
12:52 Hello Peter- fantastic video! You helped me trouble shoot my beloved Oracle. I placemarked this part of the video to reference that i have a leak of hot water that is between the grinder and the boiler. In this shot, it appears to be directly below the yellow wire. I hear steam hissing and can see a small amount of water accumulating in the bottom of the Oracle. Before I subject my pocketbook to Breville repair service, i was wondering if the part is even accessible without tearing the machine apart? Thanks in advance!
Well, hard to say, not quite sure which part is leaking. I think there is a solenoid valve in that area and possibly a pipe to the side. I would have a look around and see exactly where the leak originates, it might be there is an easy to remove part that will give enough access. If is a temp sensor or pipe, you might be able to get to clip and replace oring using long bent nose pliers or forceps.
great video! Thank you
Thanks
Hi Pete. I have exactly the same issue as this video. Do you offer private repairs?
No sorry, I avoid these except family/friends and charity since i retired, don't wan to further complicate my tax or have to deal with additional rates, insurace etc
My 980 doesn’t heat up past 157 Fahrenheit after descaling. Could it be the thermal fuse?
I think it could be several things. It is worth testing the fuse - see section wheere I tested resistance of elements, if fuse is gone it will be open circuit, but keep in mind that you are also measuring the triac board at same time. A different type of failure on triac board could be a problem too. I think the site that I mentioned and linked in descripion might have more on the "not reaching temperature" problem
Hi Mark, my group head won’t stop releasing water… do you know how should I deal with it?
Mark? I would suspect the solenoid valve next to the boiler, but take a look at the site I linked and search a few forums.
Hi - how many ohms should I expect for the grouphead wire? Currently getting an error code for it following changing the components on the triac board - I lifted a pad when desoldering one of the octocouplers so I think thats the reasons.
I checked with my ohms meter and the thermal fuses for water and steam read the same as yours and around 280 for the group-head wire (orange)
That sounds about right
@@MakeOrRepair Hello - thanks for the reply and for the useful guide. I followed your steps and replaced the same components you did on the triac board. I tested the fuses and elements and all read ok. I managed to clear all fault codes but a new one popped up; Error 19 "Group head element operate for 5min (in start−up mode) but
group head heater EdC temperature not increase> 10degC".
The machine now does not exceed 70 degrees Celsius. Steam and hot water work fine, but no water dispenses from the group head and I get 3 beeps when I try.
I even went to replace the triac for the group head wire a second time as I had a spare, but that still didn't work.
I tried numerous times to clear a potential air lock as many have reported this can cause this issue. I even went as far as filling the main boiler with water manually by removing the inlet hose to ensure there was no trapped air.
Do you have any thoughts? I'm thinking I may have damaged the triac board but not sure.
Hey, I have a dual boiler; my issue is the same (temperature running beyond 93 degrees) the only difference is that I cannot steam, the hot water and the head for espresso are pouring water. I had a leak from the probes in the steam boiler. I tried to replace the tiny o-rings there but couldn't find the right ones. How can I know if the steam boiler is destroyed? Or should I just replace the probe kit and maybe the triac board? should the steam boiler be hot immediately? the main boiler for coffee is hot but I think that for the steam it takes more time and I cannot wait as the machine getting extremely hot... what do you think
I got the o rings from ebay searching for breville 9 o rings. I've seen them at several suppliers in the UK and US. you could get the probe kit as a last resort - check out the website I linked. But the probes are just stainless rods and unless actually damaged what is the point. To test the steam boiler, turn off and connect a multimeter across the element to read the resistance, similar to the way I did in the video (although this tests thermal fuses etc at the same time), but you can find the other end of the coloured wires on the element terminal itself as it enters the boiler and test that on its own. Triac seems likely but there are other possibilities like the NTC sensors for example and even certain valves could cause it if water is not going where it is supposed to! If you have a multimeter (even a cheap one) measure the voltage on the steam boiler terminals (the element) when the machine is in standby it should be nothing or near enough, when just switchin on it should be high voltage and then turn off at 93 on the coffee machine display. if there is a voltage then almost certainly faulty triac board. (mine was over 100V on a 240V supply) . You would have to do a search but your model MNIGHT include an engineers menu that displays the temperature of each seprate sensor, that would help get certainty if the sensors are alright. Hope that helps
@@MakeOrRepair WOW I can't thank you enough! that solved the problem (took some time to get the parts), I replaced the probe kit just to be safe as it leaked before, but as you said the new triac solved the issue... Unfortunately, now for some reason I have the 3 beeps issue where the steam boiler is not heating, I tried to turn on the machine where the RED or Blue cables are not connected to the probe (saw it on the internet, and it worked once before I got the new parts) but now it does not work, and the steam boiler doesn't get filled or heated (it gets filled only when I leave the steam wand open the red cable is not connected to the probe) any suggestions?
@yyy777able all you can do is trace voltages from triac board to steam boiler, check the thermal fuses are intact on that boiler.after that, not sure if there is a solenoid valve that might not be operational of of course the pump to the steam boiler. But it is sll guessing, just picking some things I would look at.
@@MakeOrRepair thank you very much for all the help!
@@MakeOrRepair Hey! once more thank you for your help! Fixing the machine has been like running after my tail... I replaced the thermal fuse and now the steam boiler work perfect... but all of a sudden the Group head does not get hotter than 65, the hot water works, but I get err08 (Coffee Water Flow Failure) but I have no idea where to even look at it... before fixing the thermal fuse the coffee head worked well so I am not sure what I did that made it happen. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Pete,
My Oracle Touch won’t come to ready state (Power button won’t stop blinking) and after some time it gives me ER12 - Porta Filter NTC short (Operation) error. I changed the Shower Head NTC sensor but to no avail. Can some other part be at fault? I mean other than PCB Triac board?
Not entirely sure, but I what I seemed to find was that there are heaters for steam, hot water and a separate one for the head itself, so there would be NTC sensors for each. I would suggest have a dig around and see if you can find them, then if you have a multimeter with ohms range check if any are reading short circuit or very low compared to the others. They can also proably short to the casing not just the two wires within the sensor.
Poor quality. Everything inside is plastic and every few months, one part breaks.
Not sure what you are doing with yours, but this was my only repair in about 5-years. As dometstic machines go I've also tried delongi and Gaggia and both were far more plastic...
@@MakeOrRepair perhaps this person wants to eliminate plastics and regress back to preindustrial society.