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Thank you.

If I had a CNC lathe maybe, but cutting 100ish precision grooves per part is mind numbing and slow.

Thanks. Certainly not a financialy viable repair method - but fun to try!

I'm using a mini spot welder to attach strips of nickel to the battery, these strips then attach the battery to the circuit. Because each weld only takes a fraction of a second, it avoids overheating the battery. The alternative would be soldering but it can be risky to solder directly to the ends of the battery cylinder, although possible if done quickly while cooling the battery. Of course not worth investing in a welder for just one or two jobs, instead buy the battery with the strips already attached. The welder i used was this one, although lots of other makes available. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09JKQSM2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. Yes noticed price a few days ago, and lower panel costs; thinking of installing another.

Perhaps someone might have one not fastened to the wall so they can give a definitive reply. I can't really remember. If they are not cross headed then they are almost certainly torx - a star shaped indent on the top. They are pretty common, and torx drivers are widely available. If they are a star with a pin then that is security torx, also easily available, the screwdrivers are the same as torx except they have a hole in the end of the tip. I don't know the size but probably a T10 or T15 would be my guess but it could be a T20. I would recomend a set, you should be able to pick up 1/4 hex torx bits for about £5 or £6 if you have a handle, or individual drivers for not much more - remember to get thin long bits so they fit recesses! Not sure where you are but these might give an idea... www.amazon.co.uk/Hakkin-Tamper-Security-Magnetic-Screwdriver/dp/B0B5YYW117/ref=sr_1_117?crid=128M4VP56HIGZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Pz2nfWZ0MSGBBGRVkiawZumG1pO3qvm0VXtX2ELkHnoBmFbOhACDfVTT_esgnX570y2az_q23G7XLfVAkyVh4_tBMGxh7Q23BPd8tXo2YrW8bnUlfW_J8nxZAX-zuTuUAiv4J-P0B9fRE4YHe63mMyA-LCqplNisYe7BeYyo47mR0h6IGmB8AeOvLdrH7J-4gnLhRFLk7GMqgf_0GTNiNSciqMT93IcoRXJzLjGLaxbpP62jrtVlqy-TLTXkiIeZWdn1oj1HjGWKTh9Vsve86TcK9Bx1YXxV5mapMBQi-9E.CFbrqwBmL-R5gvPdT0dgvrahSwf2Vi83jxrVkwf0ODI&dib_tag=se&keywords=torx%2Bdrivers&qid=1726350173&sprefix=torx%2Bdrivers%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-117&th=1 or just search torx driver on Amazon or toolstation or whatever.

150 sounds like a good deal, make sure it is the pro model. I only use it occasionally, handy, quick,not essential.

Yes, I was looking in the wrong direction for a while (although most of the other work needed doing anyway so nothing lost), I took a look at the oscillator and it was clipping, and I though the output amp might be doing the same - "check the meter" sprang to mind several times, but there was always another idea to check.

Yes, I'd like to do it. Normally I would have PCBs manufactured, but since it is a single sided one-off, I would make it myself! I need to take a look and see if I can find everything I need and if so a short video should arrive soon.

No, requires a computer for everything!

maybe, there is also a warning label not to unscrew front connector. need to do a short video with matched wire to see how close to spec it is

everything seems to slow over time, clean reinstall often helps but even things like browsers have so much code, sometimes added in updates they struggle. in hardware terms options on an old laptop are limited. check the little fan and vent holes are clear and get some software to chech processor and memory speed. after that no ideas

the one i repaired seemed very slow to me although usable.

I didn't spot that one when I was searching for an alternative I was proably mislead by the photo having the wrong footprint. It's hard to know exactly why it is failing, you would have thought the spec they use would be adequate but overspec is certainly appealing. My fear is that it is heat that is the problem or an unexpected transient but given that imersion heaters are largely resistive, I don't get it. The forward voltage drop is fairly significant in these packages at more than 5A current and that translates into a fair amount of heat particulalry if the iboost is in an enclosed warm space, (that would derate it and the ability of the heatsink a little). That said, the device you are looking at seems to be specified to quite high junction temperature. So as well as over-spec on the bridge rectifier, perhaps try for a good quality heatsink paste and apply thinly and evenly as possible - I would try it but just make sure they send the right footprint! Regarding fuse I did find it a bit marginal on the hole size (the lead on the 16A fuse is 1.2mm diameter) so you might be better seeing if you can find one with a slightly thinner lead although I managed it just! Digikey 507-2140-ND Bel Fuse inc 0ADKP9160-RE 16 A 600 V AC 500 V DC Fuse Cartridge, Ceramic Through Hole 5mm x 20mm (Axial) Pretty sure you can get it from mouser too.

if you have FIT then the diverter should easily pay for itself. I know what you mean about the weather - my production figures are horrible this year so far.

Thank you 👍

I have an issue similar Display states "Water Tank Hot", when it isnt. To be honest over the past few weeks iv not heard the fan kick in when its supposedly heating the water from the solar panels. Again mine is out of warranty by only 7 weeks, where the on-line retailer Heater Shop seem to be passing the buck to the manufacturer. Ive emailed both Heater Shop and Marlec regarding this, due to the product not lasting a reasonable period of time, so will be interesting of the outcome?

Yes will be interesting, and i would say this probblem and rectifier blowing seem common so might be worth notifying a gov dept, ot sure who it is at the moment, and if you have no luck there is a consumer rights ombudsman and feek free to refer them to comments for this video, where there is plenty of evidence, and im only a small channel

Indeed, Pay lots of capital up front and hope you save it in running costs before it goes wrong!

Yes, in this instace the detail really added upto a big improvement, for a lot more effort, but not much more expense. I knew i was being a bit sloppy with the first build, but thought it would be good enough. The difference in ver 2 was startling, version 1 would have annoyed me every use..

Always worries me buying obsolete from Aliexpress, counterfiet is a big problem particularly with repairing current equipment that is left unattended. I would probably go for the subsitute from a reputable supplier after checking the datasheet very carefully unless there is little choice.

I thought I had included that in the video but evidently it did not make the cut. FGH40T65UPD which is 650V, 40A Field Stop Trench IGBT, it seems to be obsolete but the parametric equivalent is NGTB40N65FL2WG (at least according to Digikey). Obviously you can still get the datasheet and find a superior device if you want.

Scamazon & FraudBay have been squeezing nickels out from unsuspecting electronics hobbyists for , well, forever, most notably my go-to Frequency/Signal generators from 40 years ago with my first "I will create the "Twent-cent device that will save so many lives I can sell it for, hmmm, $500US" I have been hunting in this arena for two years at least as I rebuild my 'bench' 40 years post my previous one. Think of the prophet!!! marginal humor injection, that Pace looks familiar, except that this particular shape oddly-enough squirts from my fingers faster than a watermelon seed, violating the warranty when it inevitably flys-apart revealing an empty case with a skin-thick fake display with random numbers generated fooling me into believing there are exactly ZERO trustworthy corporations ANYWHERE. humynity is PHUCKED! 47 years left, folks Exar's XSR2206 & Intersil's ICL8038 kits are b ogus, though one intrepid explorer has reigned supreme over the dooky spreaders FraudAzon and ScamBay truly are. Out out out foul demon-spawn! Your Greed-Driven Money-Grubbing Morally-Bankrupt Crazed-Fantasy you need to be able to afford your dead-end trip to Mars, thank me later, but get to work Preventing the Premature-Pull Date right up ahead. Your outfit becomes you only while wearing tight-fitting 100% lead shoes underwater. then the air supply hose is severed and Earth flies around the Solar System like a deflating balloon that just popped.

Thanks

Not sure, but I suspect the first issue is the resitors and capacitors at the mains input, they are goint to form a voltage divider to get roughly the right voltage to power the logic, then pass that along to a zener or regulator. That might be all that is needed but not sure about the heating elements... A dicey proposition I think.

Good to hear, thanks

Handy, and if I recall that is just a 4 part op amp, so v. Low cost if it needed replacing. Hopefully the rest of the original soldering is better.

no problem

thanks

Sorry it took a while to reply. To my recollection there was a mix of #2 and #1 in the back, #2 on the left, #1 where all the cables are bunched together. If you are having to buy them then get a pair with a normal 4-5 inch long shaft, not interchangable tips which have a wider shaft. They will then be useful for any recessed screws like the recessed ones in the front. They can be taken out with #2 but I think #1 is the right size.

@@MakeOrRepair Thank you!

Absolutely! on a proper LCR meter the lower DC resistance makes the equation calculate the Capacitance as higher. I have seen some fairly extreme examples of that like 2200uF reporting as over 6000uF (in a power supply that blew the fuse). I have mentioned it in a couple of my later videos and have been pondering doing a video showing how the phase shift is used to calculate the capcitance in an LCR meter and how low DC resistance affects it - would that be worthwhile do you think.

It depends how other colours have been applied. If they have been painted of diffusion dyed then maybe, but if it is multi-coloured plastics then unlikely, remember the process reverses the chemical degradation that has occurred. If you are concerned then you could use a hair paste containing the peroxide or mask the areas you want untouched with a waterproof tape or you can get paint on masking fluids like latex. I would probably just give it a go and check from time to time.

@@MakeOrRepair yeh it was for a 1980s cherry coke can transformer and I was just hesitant it might take the red stripes and writing off

I would be incredibly cautious. In good condition these are fairly high priced and need looking after. It looks to me like a transfer or print method used to apply the red. You could perhaps try an inconspicuous spot if there is one.

Not sure what to suggest. I have seen quite a bit of discussion about problems getting comms to behave, i recall having quite a faf to get mine working, just can't remember the details. 230 vs 115 sounds like a problem with the switching.

First attempt was mainly things on hand. Switch cost is certainly an issue. I thought about 2 and 1 ohm as well, but it gets costly. I might think about it with relays in future. But what normally happens is I keep thinking how I could make it better, then it gets too expensive.

The main reason is that when testing amps with faults, I want attenuation before the analyser to help keep it safe. On thevanalyser 0 to 12db all uses same attenuation but changes the full-scale, so these impact dynamic range. The next step adds in an Attenuator at the front end but with 100k input impedance that has a big impact on the noise floor. Putting a specific attenuation in the low impedance load gives attenuation with much lower noise impact than the internal attenuation. I lose almost 40dBv of range, but no impact on noise. Using internal attenuation I would lose 24dBv range but the analyser noise floor goes up a lot. Perhaps I'll try and explain it in pt2.

Forgot about the multi-tap. Yes that would be a good idea thanks. I might add it later. I also intend to add a protective limiter on the output just in case.

Thanks for the reply! Regarding the 12db, I meant the external load available from quant asylum, rather than the analysers internal attenuator. Interesting that exists though!

Not sure how I could help, you just have to trace the wires as best you can.

Thanks already got it!

I'm trying to get around to looking at the issues with low power devices. I have not found a cheep device that can measure them well. The issue with low power is that the digitisation loses precision as you get towards the bottom so even if you do get a reading it can be 40-100% inacurate. I've also seen a request regarding what power do they measure down to and I'm going to try and do a video about that if I can get to it. If it can't even measure the voltage properly then all bets are off! I did measure a smart plug at some point and it wasn't impressive!

@@MakeOrRepair Well they need to be able to measure an imense range of current/power. It's like measuring a Voltage between 1 and 2 Volt on a 10.000V range setting. Probably you could calibrate it by filing down the shunt or adding extra solder on it as a matter of speech. Of course that 211V instead of the real 238V was a not so good thing. I have now ordered the same type of smart switch (Tuya) in Zigbee. So when I will get it I will compare it to the BT model. From what I've heard is that Zigbee uses a lot less power. Lets wait and see.

@@Luke-san Yes exacly - dynamic range is the problem - no resolution left at the bottom end - I have a lab grade power meter that goes from about 20kW down to the micro watt - but it does it by switching between many current shunts depending what sort of range it is measuring. OF course it is massive and costs a fortune! It would be great if there was a low cost meter that had say two shunts so it could auto range down into the mW range without sacrificing too much rsolution and accuracy. The design is not much more on top of what is already there, but of course it would add about £5 to the cost and they lose competitiveness.

Descaling soulds possible, just try draining the steam boiler using the little screws on the front. The output of the pump must go to some sort of pressure releif valve, so check that the water is not just cycling back into the hot water tank

It might just be scaled up I suppose. Or the bypass valve possibly. If that is weak then water goes through the pump and directly back tot he water tank. There could be problems with other blockeage int he dispensing head, try taking the shower screen out just one screwn and give it a good wash. After that things get more complicated such as various solenoid valves.

The iboost will only heat water when the sun is out and you are exporting. So you also need some other way to heat in days when the iboost is not enough or to top up the heat when needed. Mine is both gas heated and has an immersion, so the iboost is connected to immersion without timer, it heats during the day if there is enough sun, then the gas heating runs at 6am to ensure we have a full tank fir morning showers etc.

@@MakeOrRepair many thanks for the very useful answer!

@@MakeOrRepair many thanks, thats very useful Greg

Strange, I remember replying to this already

The voltage and current outputs of almost all bugdet testers are completley inadequate to properly test most MOSFETs except the tiny ones, they just dont test enough range. I've several faulty transistors that I eventually found and other than very expensive curve tracers none of the budget testers could find the fault.

No sorry, I avoid these except family/friends and charity since i retired, don't wan to further complicate my tax or have to deal with additional rates, insurace etc