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Sorry the answer was in the description. The model is Nevsetpo B07H1ZFVFM.

no problem, glad you liked it

glad it helped

TRUTH

Flir still make great stuff, but their entry-level products need an overhaul. The same thing happened with keysight, fluke etc; along came competition determined to match or beat the specs at a budget price

@@MakeOrRepair yeah, for consumer tech products, they need do some improvements or drop the price down

I especially like the red hot color of P2, its much more clear than flir

You're welcome! Sorry the video was so long, but a lot to cover.

yes！！！ the frame rate of P2 is really much better than flir

Yes make sure it is on the performance setting. And avoid casting to a computer. That said I did use it just fine in many repairs. You don't always realise how much you are struggling and compensating until you try a better tool.

It might be that the BMS is taking account of the lower SOH of the older batteries when reporting the charge at 97%, A 100% battery is always going to report the overall state vs. perfection. An older battery as master will report the charge Vs. its own SOH. I just added a new 3000C and it reports 97%. Not sure why the discharge is so much, possibly the inverter is not understanding about the 2000+. To my recollection the 2000C does have DOD below 20%, you might be able to specify it in the inverter settings. Yes, charging the new and old separately to 100% before connecting them together should be a good idea, althoug it should not ne necesarry with the latest firmware - obviously you must have the latest battery as master.

Appreciate reply. The 2 older c's are only 2 years old and no issue synching them and partnered with the older + model, can only guess perhaps this latest has upgraded firmware as DOD 95% again same as older 2. *My Solax inverter won't or shouldn't let them drop below 20% (certainly not brave enough to tamper with that!). WHEN the suns does appear (and I'm home) for a decent period, will stick to my plan in ensuring all on full - I may even separate top 2 (yes the latest is or was on top stack/master) as bms faulted on top 2 and with the 3 always never went below 20%, now currently on 19% DOD (no alarm). I left the new on 36% now disconnected. I did read a post of this happening to someone else albeit different inverter and that it would or should sort itself out. 🤞

@@kellisonline I too shy away fron adjusting the inverter battery parameters, it looks easy to make an expensive mistake! The 2000C is supposed to automatically manage self-levelling and certainly my last addition did that over 2 days. My inverter limits discharge to 20% but I always end up with 19% instead of 20. I think what is happening is that the batteries are warm during discharge and then when it stops they cool slightly and that affects the capacity. I generate nothing like enough during in winter to fill the batteries - mainly in winter they charge with low cost import overnight and then I pretty much drain them throughout the next day..

My main concern was the bms shutdown at 13%. Yet on reset ( switch off/on), levels came back upto 25%?! Hopefully over Xmas, can do some charging/isolating/testing. Thanks again.

Not sure what you are reading but my callipers still work fine and the item I reviewed has very good reviews and scores 4.5 on amazon. I am aware of Chinese politics and am not interested in a debate.

Yes, although most people really don't seem to understand.

No. The first battery did run out really fast, but the replacement seems to be lasting fine. I think it wakes up at the slightest movement.

I measured battery current on three absolute origin calipers. Shars Aventor DPS On - 21uA Off - 1.3uA Off from timeout - 13uA Igauge OriginCal On - 65uA Off - 22uA Insize Absolute System On - 7.5uA Off - 1.7uA Off from timeout - 1.7uA

Hope it works for you

@@MakeOrRepair worked a teat thanks so much for the video you are a legend

The two at the back are t20 torx. the ones recessed at the front are philips, I actually used a long #1 posidrive screwdriver because I was unsure and it worked. But I seem to recall they were #1 philips screws. You don't need excessively long screwdriver, just about 5 inches long shaft would be fine. Mine is part of a very long set from Wera.

Yes, and no doubt rebadged as other budget brands.

Cheeky! I film the experience as it really is, so sometimes you get to see me trying to figure out how to use it and even making mistakes. Some creators spend a lot of time learning, then scripting g so they can pretend they are experts, I try to be more realistic. And I am well versed with spectrum analysers, just this one is a bit old, and some aspects less than intuitive.

@MakeOrRepair I am not any better. You're miles ahead of me. I need to repair mine and not very clear of all the functions. Thanks for sharing an interesting video.

In the uk, cctv footage extending beyong the private property boundary is subject to the data protection act which does state signage is required.

The fuse and rectifier are pretty inexpensive, about £10 in single quantity. Just limited supply, but most suppliers stock them. You might just have to shop around. The rectifier is significantly over specified so it makes it hard to see what is causing the failure, I originally thought it might be thermal, but also perhaos a voltage spike when the imersion thermostat switches off suddenly. I agree the manufacturer should look into it, in the old days you could report the product as not fit for purpose to trading standards, but unsure if there is an appropriate body nowadays.

Information on promax is very limited, you might find something using a lower model in the range e.g. od-512 or what i think is closely related od-514/515/545. Also take a look around and see if you can find anything that looks similar i.e. rebadged and check on EEVBLOG forum. Without a service manual it can be a needle in a haystack. I should always start with a voltage check as far as possible. Get hooked up and power on, look at the voltages early and see if any drop when it gets to the point it stops. Hopefully you wiill find a separate power section with voltages marked, you can however pick up pretty reliable voltage test points by finding a suitable ground and testing voltages on logic ICs, operational amplifiers etc. Obviously also check any front panel cables etc in the hope it is something simple. I have seen stopping durng power on for several reasons - from power that drops part way through starting caused by overload from another fault, power borderline with old capacitors, excessive ripple as that device powers on, So voltages even if just to get a solid assurance for later checks. And if possible the quality of those power supplies e.g. massive ripple. Check the processor (if it has one) is actually clocking and running before and after it stops. You may have seen in several videos that I do a voltage check on yout the power supply with everythig else disconnected, then if that works I connect up and test the power again - because the power supply will often protect itself if there is fault elsewhere. Not always practical but perhaps there are sub-assemblies that might be disconnected to see if that helps it narrow tha search. Is it perhaps failing when it attempts to power on the CRT, which might point to a power fault in that area which could be difficult and dangerous without a manual . But really it is a case of trying to understand roughly what is what - input amplifiers to choppers then a delay line, then to y-amplifiers for the plates. The first amplifiers also branch off to the trigger circuits which in turn control the sweep circuits. Once you have a reaosnable amount of comfort you can start trying to isolate sections to narrow the fault. But it can be a long and frustrating process. You might find it helpfult to get a service manual for anything similar from a similar time not because it will be exactly right but because there will be similarities, particularly at the block diagram level. Good luck!

Welcome

Thank you.

If I had a CNC lathe maybe, but cutting 100ish precision grooves per part is mind numbing and slow.

Thanks. Certainly not a financialy viable repair method - but fun to try!

I'm using a mini spot welder to attach strips of nickel to the battery, these strips then attach the battery to the circuit. Because each weld only takes a fraction of a second, it avoids overheating the battery. The alternative would be soldering but it can be risky to solder directly to the ends of the battery cylinder, although possible if done quickly while cooling the battery. Of course not worth investing in a welder for just one or two jobs, instead buy the battery with the strips already attached. The welder i used was this one, although lots of other makes available. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09JKQSM2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. Yes noticed price a few days ago, and lower panel costs; thinking of installing another.

Perhaps someone might have one not fastened to the wall so they can give a definitive reply. I can't really remember. If they are not cross headed then they are almost certainly torx - a star shaped indent on the top. They are pretty common, and torx drivers are widely available. If they are a star with a pin then that is security torx, also easily available, the screwdrivers are the same as torx except they have a hole in the end of the tip. I don't know the size but probably a T10 or T15 would be my guess but it could be a T20. I would recomend a set, you should be able to pick up 1/4 hex torx bits for about £5 or £6 if you have a handle, or individual drivers for not much more - remember to get thin long bits so they fit recesses! Not sure where you are but these might give an idea... www.amazon.co.uk/Hakkin-Tamper-Security-Magnetic-Screwdriver/dp/B0B5YYW117/ref=sr_1_117?crid=128M4VP56HIGZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Pz2nfWZ0MSGBBGRVkiawZumG1pO3qvm0VXtX2ELkHnoBmFbOhACDfVTT_esgnX570y2az_q23G7XLfVAkyVh4_tBMGxh7Q23BPd8tXo2YrW8bnUlfW_J8nxZAX-zuTuUAiv4J-P0B9fRE4YHe63mMyA-LCqplNisYe7BeYyo47mR0h6IGmB8AeOvLdrH7J-4gnLhRFLk7GMqgf_0GTNiNSciqMT93IcoRXJzLjGLaxbpP62jrtVlqy-TLTXkiIeZWdn1oj1HjGWKTh9Vsve86TcK9Bx1YXxV5mapMBQi-9E.CFbrqwBmL-R5gvPdT0dgvrahSwf2Vi83jxrVkwf0ODI&dib_tag=se&keywords=torx%2Bdrivers&qid=1726350173&sprefix=torx%2Bdrivers%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-117&th=1 or just search torx driver on Amazon or toolstation or whatever.

150 sounds like a good deal, make sure it is the pro model. I only use it occasionally, handy, quick,not essential.

Yes, I was looking in the wrong direction for a while (although most of the other work needed doing anyway so nothing lost), I took a look at the oscillator and it was clipping, and I though the output amp might be doing the same - "check the meter" sprang to mind several times, but there was always another idea to check.

Yes, I'd like to do it. Normally I would have PCBs manufactured, but since it is a single sided one-off, I would make it myself! I need to take a look and see if I can find everything I need and if so a short video should arrive soon.

No, requires a computer for everything!

maybe, there is also a warning label not to unscrew front connector. need to do a short video with matched wire to see how close to spec it is

everything seems to slow over time, clean reinstall often helps but even things like browsers have so much code, sometimes added in updates they struggle. in hardware terms options on an old laptop are limited. check the little fan and vent holes are clear and get some software to chech processor and memory speed. after that no ideas

the one i repaired seemed very slow to me although usable.

I didn't spot that one when I was searching for an alternative I was proably mislead by the photo having the wrong footprint. It's hard to know exactly why it is failing, you would have thought the spec they use would be adequate but overspec is certainly appealing. My fear is that it is heat that is the problem or an unexpected transient but given that imersion heaters are largely resistive, I don't get it. The forward voltage drop is fairly significant in these packages at more than 5A current and that translates into a fair amount of heat particulalry if the iboost is in an enclosed warm space, (that would derate it and the ability of the heatsink a little). That said, the device you are looking at seems to be specified to quite high junction temperature. So as well as over-spec on the bridge rectifier, perhaps try for a good quality heatsink paste and apply thinly and evenly as possible - I would try it but just make sure they send the right footprint! Regarding fuse I did find it a bit marginal on the hole size (the lead on the 16A fuse is 1.2mm diameter) so you might be better seeing if you can find one with a slightly thinner lead although I managed it just! Digikey 507-2140-ND Bel Fuse inc 0ADKP9160-RE 16 A 600 V AC 500 V DC Fuse Cartridge, Ceramic Through Hole 5mm x 20mm (Axial) Pretty sure you can get it from mouser too.

if you have FIT then the diverter should easily pay for itself. I know what you mean about the weather - my production figures are horrible this year so far.

Thank you 👍

I have an issue similar Display states "Water Tank Hot", when it isnt. To be honest over the past few weeks iv not heard the fan kick in when its supposedly heating the water from the solar panels. Again mine is out of warranty by only 7 weeks, where the on-line retailer Heater Shop seem to be passing the buck to the manufacturer. Ive emailed both Heater Shop and Marlec regarding this, due to the product not lasting a reasonable period of time, so will be interesting of the outcome?

Yes will be interesting, and i would say this probblem and rectifier blowing seem common so might be worth notifying a gov dept, ot sure who it is at the moment, and if you have no luck there is a consumer rights ombudsman and feek free to refer them to comments for this video, where there is plenty of evidence, and im only a small channel

Indeed, Pay lots of capital up front and hope you save it in running costs before it goes wrong!

Yes, in this instace the detail really added upto a big improvement, for a lot more effort, but not much more expense. I knew i was being a bit sloppy with the first build, but thought it would be good enough. The difference in ver 2 was startling, version 1 would have annoyed me every use..

Always worries me buying obsolete from Aliexpress, counterfiet is a big problem particularly with repairing current equipment that is left unattended. I would probably go for the subsitute from a reputable supplier after checking the datasheet very carefully unless there is little choice.

I thought I had included that in the video but evidently it did not make the cut. FGH40T65UPD which is 650V, 40A Field Stop Trench IGBT, it seems to be obsolete but the parametric equivalent is NGTB40N65FL2WG (at least according to Digikey). Obviously you can still get the datasheet and find a superior device if you want.

Scamazon & FraudBay have been squeezing nickels out from unsuspecting electronics hobbyists for , well, forever, most notably my go-to Frequency/Signal generators from 40 years ago with my first "I will create the "Twent-cent device that will save so many lives I can sell it for, hmmm, $500US" I have been hunting in this arena for two years at least as I rebuild my 'bench' 40 years post my previous one. Think of the prophet!!! marginal humor injection, that Pace looks familiar, except that this particular shape oddly-enough squirts from my fingers faster than a watermelon seed, violating the warranty when it inevitably flys-apart revealing an empty case with a skin-thick fake display with random numbers generated fooling me into believing there are exactly ZERO trustworthy corporations ANYWHERE. humynity is PHUCKED! 47 years left, folks Exar's XSR2206 & Intersil's ICL8038 kits are b ogus, though one intrepid explorer has reigned supreme over the dooky spreaders FraudAzon and ScamBay truly are. Out out out foul demon-spawn! Your Greed-Driven Money-Grubbing Morally-Bankrupt Crazed-Fantasy you need to be able to afford your dead-end trip to Mars, thank me later, but get to work Preventing the Premature-Pull Date right up ahead. Your outfit becomes you only while wearing tight-fitting 100% lead shoes underwater. then the air supply hose is severed and Earth flies around the Solar System like a deflating balloon that just popped.

Thanks