The problem with cotton swabs is that they shed, and you can't stop them from shedding. If you're using alcohol to clean rails, use a rag or better yet fragments from an old cotton t-shirt or cotton pillowcase. No shedding that way.
Absolutely, cotton swabs will break up but only if you reuse them. I use new ones each clean and haven't had a problem yet. I've also used an old cotton t-shirt or bits of it, and yes, it does work well. The only thing I'd add is to tear it up into very small bits otherwise you end up catching other objects around the track as you go.
Thank you for this video. I tried my Woodland Scenics wand and other suggestions but coming right down to it, using cotton swabs did the trick. No cotton residue left behind if I did not try to overuse a swab tip. The cotton tip actually squicked where there was tarnish to be removed then nothing when the track was clean. I ran a loco and where it hesitated, I put in a push pin and went back and gave those spots more time. Clear running!! Cost and time-effective.
Simple track cleaning and it works!!! I have been running my trains for 6 years and has never cleaned my tracks. My story : After laying track I clean once with a track cleaning pad, only once. Thereafter I use ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red one) as follows. Using ear bud dipped in ATF I apply about 300mm to each track at the highest point on my layout. My circles are 114m long, so apply less for smaller layouts. Only at one point, don’t overdue it. The loco and wagon wheels will spread the ATF onto all the tracks over a period of time. You will have no mug built-up on wheels at all. There might be a little bit of loco slippage for a short while after applying ATF but it disappears quickly. Do not wipe any oily substance off the tracks at all. I reapply the moment any loco misses a beat anywhere on the layout, usually once every 2 to 3 months. Small bonus, after 6 years my track already looks a little weathered. Train friends, I was very sceptical about this method but believe me IT WORKS. I used the MIDAS ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red fluid one) Watch my layout in progress on You Tube ruclips.net/video/7B_GW2gJ0L0/видео.html
Thank you good sir. I just started working on my father TT collection that sat for like 15-20 years, last time i was with him the trains were working without problems, today ( he is no longer with us unfortunately) the engine stutters on some track sectors and squeaks on some bends + sparks. I will clean the track and see if it solves the issue.
I have a block of wood that I run over the rails, does work well but it doesn't always clear oil etc; IPA (alcohol) and the cotton cuts through and soaks this up and I can be sure it's gone.
When the locomotives start struggling to even move the tracks probably dirty. First wipe the track with a microfibre cloth. Then use a soft cotton swap and rub the rails dry then again with some alcohol. Next clean the locomotives wheels and all your rolling stocks wheels. A little dish soap in a bowl with warm water take all the trucks and wheels off the rolling stock throw them in the soapy water take a clean toothbrush and wipe all the gunk off the wheel. If you have any cars with plastic wheels I’d recommend converting them to steel wheels very easy too doo. The reason is the plastic wheels pick up so much more gunk and lay it all over the tracks rails and then the locomotives pick it all up.
Not isopropyl alcohol... WHy work harder and not smarter??? In fact, NEVER use anything with alcohol in its name for cleaning your track. Get DeoxIT D5 contact cleaner ($17) or any mineral spirit with >95% purity ($10-20) and then apply a thin layer of No-OX-ID ($10). Repeat the process every 15-21 months or every 9-12 months if you live in a dusty place. Use a vacuum cleaner in the rest of the time. A bottle of contact cleaner can be used for ~200m of track. The mineral spirit and No-OX-ID will simply just expire on your shelf.
NO! never use isopropyl alcohol. It leaves water residue on the track that oxidizes and makes your trains run crappy. Use mineral spirits or contact cleaner like DeOxit D5.
Another thing that works really well is a graphite stick: ruclips.net/video/o59W7iwre24/видео.html These are available at just about any art supply store, such as Michael's or Hobby Lobby. And, they are NOT expensive. The graphite is also conductive, which is a plus for the rails and wheels.
I've used the rubbing alcohol method for a few months now and it collects dirt extremely fast. I will use your suggestion and see if it works better - thanks!
Unless you have track with plastic ties. Acetone will weaken the plastic and eventually melt parts of it, thus throwing your track out of gauge. Not a good thing.
The problem with cotton swabs is that they shed, and you can't stop them from shedding. If you're using alcohol to clean rails, use a rag or better yet fragments from an old cotton t-shirt or cotton pillowcase. No shedding that way.
Absolutely, cotton swabs will break up but only if you reuse them. I use new ones each clean and haven't had a problem yet. I've also used an old cotton t-shirt or bits of it, and yes, it does work well. The only thing I'd add is to tear it up into very small bits otherwise you end up catching other objects around the track as you go.
A tip : watch movies at kaldroStream. I've been using them for watching lots of of movies recently.
@Quinn Zane yup, I've been watching on kaldroStream for months myself :)
Simple and straightforward. Thank you not being another 30 minute video to say something that could be explained in minutes.
Great to watch an instructional that doesn’t show more of the provider than the subject.
Thank you for this video. I tried my Woodland Scenics wand and other suggestions but coming right down to it, using cotton swabs did the trick. No cotton residue left behind if I did not try to overuse a swab tip. The cotton tip actually squicked where there was tarnish to be removed then nothing when the track was clean. I ran a loco and where it hesitated, I put in a push pin and went back and gave those spots more time. Clear running!! Cost and time-effective.
Simple track cleaning and it works!!!
I have been running my trains for 6 years and has never cleaned my tracks.
My story : After laying track I clean once with a track cleaning pad, only once. Thereafter I use ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red one) as follows. Using ear bud dipped in ATF I apply about 300mm to each track at the highest point on my layout. My circles are 114m long, so apply less for smaller layouts. Only at one point, don’t overdue it.
The loco and wagon wheels will spread the ATF onto all the tracks over a period of time. You will have no mug built-up on wheels at all. There might be a little bit of loco slippage for a short while after applying ATF but it disappears quickly. Do not wipe any oily substance off the tracks at all. I reapply the moment any loco misses a beat anywhere on the layout, usually once every 2 to 3 months. Small bonus, after 6 years my track already looks a little weathered. Train friends, I was very sceptical about this method but believe me IT WORKS.
I used the MIDAS ATF Automatic transmission fluid (The red fluid one)
Watch my layout in progress on You Tube
ruclips.net/video/7B_GW2gJ0L0/видео.html
Never use alcohol to clean track, it leaves behind a residue. Use mineral spirits or some other pure solvent.
Thank you good sir.
I just started working on my father TT collection that sat for like 15-20 years, last time i was with him the trains were working without problems, today ( he is no longer with us unfortunately) the engine stutters on some track sectors and squeaks on some bends + sparks. I will clean the track and see if it solves the issue.
I use plain old wooden paint sticks, no chemicals. Works great!
I have a block of wood that I run over the rails, does work well but it doesn't always clear oil etc; IPA (alcohol) and the cotton cuts through and soaks this up and I can be sure it's gone.
Thanks. Got my old 125 out of the loft for summer hols. Track in need of a clean...great help cheers
Thank you
All great tips
Thanks!! 👍👍
When the locomotives start struggling to even move the tracks probably dirty. First wipe the track with a microfibre cloth. Then use a soft cotton swap and rub the rails dry then again with some alcohol. Next clean the locomotives wheels and all your rolling stocks wheels. A little dish soap in a bowl with warm water take all the trucks and wheels off the rolling stock throw them in the soapy water take a clean toothbrush and wipe all the gunk off the wheel. If you have any cars with plastic wheels I’d recommend converting them to steel wheels very easy too doo. The reason is the plastic wheels pick up so much more gunk and lay it all over the tracks rails and then the locomotives pick it all up.
Use a 3m sanding sponge and your alcohol, and electrical contact cleaner at all joints .
Great way to cause ...... conductivity problems ! Cleans yes ! Electrical issues YES ! Cheers .....
Not isopropyl alcohol... WHy work harder and not smarter??? In fact, NEVER use anything with alcohol in its name for cleaning your track.
Get DeoxIT D5 contact cleaner ($17) or any mineral spirit with >95% purity ($10-20) and then apply a thin layer of No-OX-ID ($10). Repeat the process every 15-21 months or every 9-12 months if you live in a dusty place. Use a vacuum cleaner in the rest of the time. A bottle of contact cleaner can be used for ~200m of track. The mineral spirit and No-OX-ID will simply just expire on your shelf.
This is the most helpful video I've watch thank 😁👍
NO! never use isopropyl alcohol. It leaves water residue on the track that oxidizes and makes your trains run crappy. Use mineral spirits or contact cleaner like DeOxit D5.
Have you tried Inox ?
IPA - detrimental, it's polar. Mineral spirits is better as it's non polar.
1:23 oh Christ that is loud
Another thing that works really well is a graphite stick:
ruclips.net/video/o59W7iwre24/видео.html
These are available at just about any art supply store, such as Michael's or Hobby Lobby. And, they are NOT expensive. The graphite is also conductive, which is a plus for the rails and wheels.
For more 'q-tips' please subscribe! hahaha
Will it work on piko a track system? Because i have a cleaning car that you need to fill up with something...
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Never use alcohol to clean track. Use mineral spirits.
Thanks! How do we do it in the woods, the city, the tunnels, etc.?
I guess in the woods you could have a bear do it. They DO do it in the woods....
My tunnels have lift out sections so I can get to the track; between trees, it's just a case of taking it slowly.
If I had to clean 130 metres of my track that way it take a year!!
Wouldn’t bail varnish remover work too ?
Ruins the plastic though - see the comparison of various cleaning liquids on Sam's Trains
Actually Acetone works better and it won't collect more dirt as easily.
I've used the rubbing alcohol method for a few months now and it collects dirt extremely fast. I will use your suggestion and see if it works better - thanks!
Unless you have track with plastic ties. Acetone will weaken the plastic and eventually melt parts of it, thus throwing your track out of gauge. Not a good thing.
No no no, .
No-Ox-Id A Special Electrical Contact Grease,
lasts for years with a thin rub on rails.......
very nice layout you got .Thumbs up for you .Hope you like mine diesel dave's
White spirit.
$6 bucks for a PECO block that lasts a long time…..this was at least $2 worth of supplies……Qtips shed……..no