This is how a "how-to" video should be made! Including tools used, right down to individual socket sizes, is really helpful. Step by step process also gives an idea of how it goes.
Oddly enough, dealing with the valves is what I'm more nervous about as I feel I'll lose track of where the pistons are and stuff, the rest looks pretty easy. A shop quoted me $1500 in labor to do this job and I normally don't go to shops for my truck so I'm gonna do this myself. Good video
Did this yesterday. But with injector DIY rebuild with a kit, changing only sealing components, ball valve and 2 springs while leaving existing shims in their original positions. All seemed to go well. Diesel runaway on first start. 30 seconds of pure hell and engine was done for. Should have swapped in remans but can't turn the clock back.
This video was a great help! You guys definitely deserved a shoutout... I just swapped over all six of my injectors, tubes, and installed a new valve gasket. Not an easy DIY task...I'd recommend anyone without the tools, time or more importantly the skill set take their truck to a pro, because #5 and especially #6 are a real pain! ~Jon@SBYD!.
The Video noted a torque value on the Connector Tube retaining nut of 44 Ft lbs. Just fyi the 2005 Dodge Service Manual, on page 14-102 in Volume 3, says the torque value for the "Fuel Connector Nut at Cylinder Head" should be 50 N-m, or 37 Ft lbs. I have seen several videos with differing torque values claimed... as high at 57 Ft lbs. I wonder where the numbers come from that differ from the service manual. Perhaps the torque value changed through the years, even though all were 24V 5.9L engines? I only have the service manual for 2005, so can't tell....
I know this is an old comment but for everyone who comes across it and has the same question, the original value was 37 ft lbs until Cummins updated it at 44lbs
I've watched many of these videos on removing and installing injectors. the only part I really wish was shown more of is the removal and install of the #6 injector and transfer tube lock nut and tube. it can be really hard to get a wrench on then and extract. Best to remove the engine block install bracket. Just sayin....
great video. covered it well and dude is obviously well trained and practiced. i especially liked the bit about cleaning the tools off, and his term "heel bar". nice. i do want to comment that the term foot-pounds is inaccurate when discussing the torque spec on a fastener. the proper term is"pounds-foot". jes sayin. foot pounds has to do with measuring something like the torque of a twisting or rotating object, a flywheel for example. what might be the book time on a job like this? im guessing 6 hours?
Used your video to change my injectors. Thank!!! I noticed when I placed my Valve cover back there was a sticker that said .026 clearance on the exhaust. You said .020. Will this hurt my motor??
Using a calibrated torque wrench the 37 ft/lb with crows foot crushed the ends of my fuel lines, unsure of why this happened, possibly fuel lines had been over torqued before causing the failure but 37 seemed to be too much
Per the 2005 Dodge Service Manual, page 14-102 in Volume 3, the "Fuel Line Fittings (High-Pressure - Cylinder Head to Rail)" Torque value is only 22 Ft lbs, or 30 N-m. The "Pump to Rail", meaning the single fitting that mates the fuel pump to the rail, is a bit higher at 27 Ft lbs, or 37 N-m, but both are below the 37 Ft lbs you used. Sorry to hear about that. Maybe this will help someone else.
Hands down the best I have seen yet on how to do thing to my truck and the other best part even let me know what tools I'll need to do it
This is how a "how-to" video should be made! Including tools used, right down to individual socket sizes, is really helpful. Step by step process also gives an idea of how it goes.
They missed the whole cylinder 6 crap. I wish mine went like this
Oddly enough, dealing with the valves is what I'm more nervous about as I feel I'll lose track of where the pistons are and stuff, the rest looks pretty easy. A shop quoted me $1500 in labor to do this job and I normally don't go to shops for my truck so I'm gonna do this myself. Good video
Did this yesterday. But with injector DIY rebuild with a kit, changing only sealing components, ball valve and 2 springs while leaving existing shims in their original positions. All seemed to go well.
Diesel runaway on first start. 30 seconds of pure hell and engine was done for.
Should have swapped in remans but can't turn the clock back.
No bueno bro
This video was a great help! You guys definitely deserved a shoutout... I just swapped over all six of my injectors, tubes, and installed a new valve gasket. Not an easy DIY task...I'd recommend anyone without the tools, time or more importantly the skill set take their truck to a pro, because #5 and especially #6 are a real pain! ~Jon@SBYD!.
This is an excellent video man.I’m doing mine on the weekend
The Video noted a torque value on the Connector Tube retaining nut of 44 Ft lbs. Just fyi the 2005 Dodge Service Manual, on page 14-102 in Volume 3, says the torque value for the "Fuel Connector Nut at Cylinder Head" should be 50 N-m, or 37 Ft lbs. I have seen several videos with differing torque values claimed... as high at 57 Ft lbs. I wonder where the numbers come from that differ from the service manual. Perhaps the torque value changed through the years, even though all were 24V 5.9L engines? I only have the service manual for 2005, so can't tell....
Hi do you know the torque of the valve cover?? Thanks 🙏
I know this is an old comment but for everyone who comes across it and has the same question, the original value was 37 ft lbs until Cummins updated it at 44lbs
Should use new transfer tube when replacing injectors
I've watched many of these videos on removing and installing injectors. the only part I really wish was shown more of is the removal and install of the #6 injector and transfer tube lock nut and tube. it can be really hard to get a wrench on then and extract. Best to remove the engine block install bracket. Just sayin....
I have a couple questions. Did you reuse the valve cover gasket and or injector tubes? What type of injectors do you reccomend?
great video. covered it well and dude is obviously well trained and practiced. i especially liked the bit about cleaning the tools off, and his term "heel bar". nice.
i do want to comment that the term foot-pounds is inaccurate when discussing the torque spec on a fastener. the proper term is"pounds-foot". jes sayin. foot pounds has to do with measuring something like the torque of a twisting or rotating object, a flywheel for example. what might be the book time on a job like this? im guessing 6 hours?
How do you get #6 I’ve killed myself for 2 hours trying
Tools 3/8 ratchet, 1/8 ratchet, 3/8 torque wrench adjustable hill bar/ small crows foot, ladies foot, 10 and 20 filler gauge to adjust intake and exhaust, 24mm socket(12point) 8mm 3/8 drive long socket, 10 mm socket 8mm wobble socket and extension, 11mm socket, 19mm wrenches(small and long)
Please do more of these how to videos!
Used your video to change my injectors. Thank!!! I noticed when I placed my Valve cover back there was a sticker that said .026 clearance on the exhaust. You said .020. Will this hurt my motor??
Willie CTS, .020 is fine. Only 06/07 says .026. Cummins spec is .020, but chrystler changed it to .026 for emissions.
How will .26 vs .20 exhaust lash really affect emissions? Just curious. Thanks
Good job
Can you tell me where u can get those feeler gauges you where using or anyone who knows , i live in Australia and have never seen those type before ?
Excellent video. thank you
Using a calibrated torque wrench the 37 ft/lb with crows foot crushed the ends of my fuel lines, unsure of why this happened, possibly fuel lines had been over torqued before causing the failure but 37 seemed to be too much
Per the 2005 Dodge Service Manual, page 14-102 in Volume 3, the "Fuel Line Fittings (High-Pressure - Cylinder Head to Rail)" Torque value is only 22 Ft lbs, or 30 N-m. The "Pump to Rail", meaning the single fitting that mates the fuel pump to the rail, is a bit higher at 27 Ft lbs, or 37 N-m, but both are below the 37 Ft lbs you used. Sorry to hear about that. Maybe this will help someone else.
Really good video thank you for making this
Thank you!