How to rebuild 3G alternator
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2014
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2002 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2001 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2003 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2000 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2002 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2004 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2003 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2000 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2000 Ford RANGER Alternator
2005 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2005 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1998 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2006 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2003 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2006 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2004 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2000 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2007 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2001 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
2001 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2003 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2005 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2004 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2003 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
2004 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
1999 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1999 Ford RANGER Alternator
1999 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2000 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
2000 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2006 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2001 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2001 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2001 Ford RANGER Alternator
2003 Ford RANGER Alternator
2007 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2002 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
2002 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
1997 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1996 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1996 Ford TAURUS Alternator
1999 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
1994 Ford RANGER Alternator
1998 Ford RANGER Alternator
1998 Ford CONTOUR Alternator
1998 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2004 Ford RANGER Alternator
1995 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1999 Ford CONTOUR Alternator
2002 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
1997 Ford RANGER Alternator
2007 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1999 Ford ESCORT Alternator
1997 Ford ESCORT Alternator
1998 Ford ESCORT Alternator
2005 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2002 Ford RANGER Alternator
1998 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
1997 Ford TAURUS Alternator
1994 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
2001 Ford ESCORT Alternator
1997 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2005 Ford RANGER Alternator
2002 Ford ESCORT Alternator
2008 Ford EXPLORER Alternator
1995 Ford RANGER Alternator
1998 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
2006 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
2000 Ford CONTOUR Alternator
1998 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
2008 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
1993 Ford RANGER Alternator
1999 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
1996 Ford RANGER Alternator
2000 Ford EXCURSION Alternator
2000 Ford ESCORT Alternator
1992 Ford RANGER Alternator
2008 Ford EXPEDITION Alternator
1999 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
1996 Ford ESCORT Alternator
1995 Ford WINDSTAR Alternator
1995 Ford TAURUS Alternator
2008 Ford RANGER Alternator
1995 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
1997 Ford MUSTANG Alternator
1998 Ford CROWN VICTORIA Alternator
2007 Ford RANGER Alternator
1993 Ford ESCORT Alternator
1995 Ford ESCORT Alternator
2006 Ford RANGER Alternator Find your Kit alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/ 
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Let someone on RUclips knows how to rebuild this guy explains it perfectly well done
Mike, thanks for taking the time to show us what to do. You explained everything and made it so easy to understand. Thank you. Outstanding job!
I got the high amp kit for this 3G small frame alternator I ran it for a month after following his instructions here and it works beautifully there's no telling how many amps is putting out it's more than 130 amps I had to run it for about a month to get the brushes to seat good and everything before I made a comment on it but this guy knows his business and the rebuilder in a box get the high amp upgrade and follow his directions and you won't have no problems
That's what we want.
i like that ending!! haha "and youre done" *video ends immediately*
I've been dreading this job for awhile now but after watching your video i'm sure i can do it myself. Picked up the parts today teardown in the morning. Thanks for an awesome informative video.
Just did this today on my 3g 95amp alternator very easy and saved me $100 vs buying a new one online, thank you.
Just wanted to say, that this video fixed a problem I had for months- thus I'm so grateful!
I had an issue with somewhat low charging voltage with a/c lights and music. and- more importantly - a whining noise that was so annoying (I mostly the one who heard it as I am very sensitive to stuff not being in best working condition possible).
I first tried replacing the bearings, but it didn't change a thing.
after watching this video I got inspired to check the diodes health, solders and contact with the body.
1 of the 6 stator wires solder was completely gone and the wires were "dancing" in that hole freely. in addition , all of the 6 touched the body of the alternator....
after re-soldering, gapping the wires, painting , greasing and all - it worked perfectly like new, quiet than ever and charges great again!!!!
thank you so much, i hope many will solve their issues like i solved mine, with just elbow grease - not a dime spent...
It is possible to drop some solder in and fix most of the rectifiers. Although I have ran across some that completely melted out the diodes which results in getting a new rectifier which we do have in stock when we are called or emailed about it.
That's good to know, though, I'm from Israel, and I'm afraid the expanses can be high (unfortunately).
Good instructions but a few details are needed for a optimum rebuild.
Clean the inside of the stator plates (core) first before doing any assembly. I would not recommend bead blasting. It’s not very controllable. Use a 120 grit flapper wheel. Be slow and careful to not hit the windings. A medium to fine wire wheel will work too. Be sure to blow out any dust then rinse core with electric clean. Do all prep work first, then assemble. If you have access to a press, use that instead of hammering bearings and the commutator on the shaft! Shock loads like that can put small flat spots on the bearing balls causing a shortened life.
Contact SKF Bearings for more info.
WOW!! I just learned something! :D I have a Ford f150 1994, Eventually need to rebuild my alternator, would be cheaper than buying a new one! This video was very helpful to do it! Thx. I do all my own work on my truck, just never rebuild an Alternator yet, New project now! :D Great video!
Every rebuild video i have watched on your channel Mike have been really well done. Thank you for this resource.
This has got to be the best tutorial i have ever watched for anything!! Thank you so much for your hard work putting this video together sir. I appreciate it very much.
+Kaden Hansen Thank you very much for the kind words
That is true, this is the best tutorial video with a perfect English pronunciation with so much details , thanks to take the time to upload this video
Thank you for the positive feedback. We will be working on a new line for high amp upgraded kits.
I went to your website looking for a kit for a 2007 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 but its not listed. Is there even one for it?
I love how easy you are, to understand and follow. The extra info, the lessons within the lessons, are the best. I LOVE bein a gear head, and you add to that.
TY
Hi Mike, I can't thank you enough for the wonderful video on this Ford 3G Alternator rebuild process - And I might add that this style alternator was used in the F150 - F250 - and I think in the F350 going as far as 2008 and maybe a bit further/ The only difference was the lower feet were notched out to allow the unit to slip over the bolts that screw in to the lower bracket and the top was a bit of a different design as well. I'll certainly be ordering parts from your store of the rebuild kit.
Great job - and Thanks again.
This is really informative. If you're pressed for time on troubleshooting, I'd just like to point out, that you can visually inspect the rectifier and its diodes right after removing the rear cover plate to find out if one or more of your diodes are trashed, without having to heat up and disassemble the whole other half. Great job, and thank you very much!
I just wanted to say thank you Mike. Great instructions and I bought the kit from your website. Fast delivery and it now works great! The one in the ranger I bought had a remanufactured motorcraft in it. It was remanufactured in Mexico using Chinese bearings and parts. It was squealing like crazy from the large bearing. The bearings you sent were a better quality for sure. A+++
Thank you.
This is why I love the 3G alternators, It's a cheap easy upgrade for many vehicles and easy to rebuild....Gets easier each time you do it.
Very informative video op, thank you. Here's my experience using your kit. I have a 1997 Ford Ranger, 150k miles and pretty crusty. First off, your kit came pretty fast, just a few days, which was fine, I just charged my battery every evening with an external charger.
So I went to take off the belt, and the tensioner was stuck. With a lot of force, it finally moved back, and I was able to remove the belt, then suddenly the tensioner snapped back. So I shot some WD40 on it and worked it back and forth a few times, when suddenly it broke apart, jamming into the fan blades. I had to use a sawzall to cut it in half in order to get at the mounting bolt to remove it. So I suggest anyone else encountering a stuck tensioner, just remove it and get a new one, don't even try to unstick it.
Then I removed the alternator. First problem I had with the Alternator was, the T20 torx bolts holding the module in. T20's are an odd size. I only had one T20 bit, whereas I have several each of all the other torx bits. Three of the bolts came out ok, the forth actually caused my only T20 bit to break, necessitating a trip to the hardware store. So make sure you have some spare T20's. Then, it took a hammer impact screwdriver to get that last T20 bolt out, even though I'd tried soaking it with penetration oil. Sucker was really stuck.
Next problem. Heating the 'front plate' to remove it from the 'stator assembly'. Lacking an oven, I used a propane torch and heated it as shown for around 5 minutes, then hammered on it as shown. It seemed to be coming free, and I also used a flat bladed screwdriver to help ease it out. But what was actually happening was, the stator assembly came apart, and the wiring stayed inside the front plate. The six solder joints in the stator assembly failed and the wires came out. So.... I thought I might be screwed at that point, but, in for a penny, in for a pound. And I hoped I'd be able to resolder those wires later.
Next problem. You say you need a minimum 200 watt soldering gun, well, I'd never bothered to check mine, and had just assumed it was a standard wattage. Nope. 100/140. So off to the big box hardware/lumber stores to see about a 200+ watt gun. No deal. No one had one. Three different big box stores and no deal. Turns out a 200+ watt gun is special order or only available online. So I decided to use my 100/140. It did work. I think I fried the 140 watt element in the process though, but I did get all the joints done, including the six stator wires.
Everything else according to your instructions went fine. I then reinstalled the alternator, along with the new tensioner, and really expected it not to work, because of the stator wire problem, even though the solder joints all looked good. I had low expectations. But I was worried for nothing, as upon firing up my truck, the alternator worked perfectly! I even took a 30 minute road trip to test it and all is well.
To sum up, if anyone else is looking to try this, you can get a new 3G alternator from an auto parts store for around $105 (plus the core) and I strongly suggest you go that route. But if like me, money was tight and this $38 kit was all you could afford, then ok. Just be prepared. Forewarned is forearmed.
Great story. Thank you very much. Lots of people find the mini torches for soldering. They work off lighter fluid and very reasonably priced. A little collateral damage, but depending on what you're doing, they can work out great. Better follow up on DB before recommending. Lots of forums say they leave you on the side of the road. Would you like a job writing for our websites?
Mini torch, interesting, I'll have to look into one for future projects. About DB, you could be right. I'll edit it out. Only other option was the auto parts stores and the cheapest alt was $106 plus tax. Yes, I am long winded when writing about something I've experienced, lol. Thx for saying so. Do you actually need help writing or was that just a way to compliment my LONG post? : )
It was a compliment. Luckily, most vehicles aren't that crusty. Parking in grass or under a tree is the worst.
In the shop, when a 3G comes apart like that, we scrap it. But you are a testimonial to intestinal fortitude and persistence.
Very thorough video....thumbs up !
Great rebuid video.....thanks for the video...
Excellent instruction
My post somehow (the 12v charging bolt) grounded out at the frame.. dunno.. But there was some welding going on without my welder.. The alternator still works but wow.. that screw is near gone.. I had to take it apart and I just welded another bolt with the head to a flat area I cut out.. Workeed great till like about a day ago.. just caput.. I have (luckily) another alternator that I can swap some parts out.. Make me good one again.. Thanks for this vid.. You did a hell of a job explaining it all and your thought process when taking these apart and all that you do.. Very good... Makes me feel I know all that there is when getting into one of these and that's what I like. Good Job! I don't know what other vids you make but make more of these.. Ktnx!
definitely agree. awesome video. very detailed. going to try a wrecker alt first though. fair bit of work to rebuild. but 50$ for rebuild kit if needed will jump back to this.
That was an excellent review, great instructor. After watching this I would most defiantly rather fix mine that just replacing it all are Remanufactured anyway. But you never know who is rebuilding them and quality control.
Thank you for the kind words.
thinking about rebuilding mine, great video to watch
Very good video. You explained it very well. Thank you!
Very detailed tutorial thankyou it helps me so much.
excelente video!! es exactamente lo que ando buscando
Mike , I had a 130 amp rebuilt 3G that went bad . It was a motorcraft rebuilt unit . I took it apart and one side of the slip ring was making contact but the solder connection was loose . I could get more voltage at higher engine speed . At idle it would fall off . I soldered it tight again , but 4 of the diodes are discolored and look to have been hot. The other 4 look new . Should that rectifier be replaced . I think the loose connection caused the diode issue . Thoughts or suggestions ?
Great video, very helpful, thank you!
very good work
So i followed your video today and the job went beautifully, thanks so much for your easy to follow straight forward video. Works like new for a fraction of the cost. :)
thank alot that was great am watching from the 242 Nassau Bahamas
nice work man
excellent video..
Excellent video
Thank You
Good working sir 😊😊😊
Thank you!
Great info by the way I just do t have the same unit so I am not sure how to install and remove this slip ring.
Very well explained
If this works on a 2005 expedition would it work on a 2005 f150? They are both 5.4 right?
Yes. If not a Super Duty.
Great video only have one compliant if you sand the stator you should coat it with a thin coat of varnish or clear nail polish to seal the metal to prevent further corrosion. The stator is made from thin laminated steel sheets sanding them opens the ends and can lead to worse damage in humid environments.
Nail polish ?? No. Varnish, ignition sealer or really any type paint to stop rust on the laminations. The point is to get as much rust off the
lams as possible, then paint the WHOLE stator ass'y (windings AND laminations). Glass bead blaster cabinets work excellent for this job. Turn down the pressure (50-60psi). Just do the metal, stay away from the actual windings. Then do the whole thing, including the metal, with red insulating paint.
What kind of solder are you using for the slip ring? Any electronic solder will do?
Rosin core. 60/40 or better. Hi temp solder not needed. Just get the parts very clean to start. Then flux if you have any.
Mike if all three of the retaking screws for the bearing retainer plate break what do you do? Assemble without the plate or epoxy the plate on?
I use a new plate, that plate is no longer good for our use. I would not suggest the epoxy.
When I did mine, two came out, and one broke off. I drilled that one out with a #7 drill bit and tapped it to 1/4 - 20, put in a new bolt and used blue loctite on it.
I have the smaller alt in my explorer and it will only charge when you rev it above 3000 rpm...the belt and tensioner are both good...do you know what it be? Thanks
Brushes
hola amigo Mike mucho gusto de aoreciar el video y me sirve mucho poder aprender,y espero que siempre hagas mas videos por favor
saludos desde peru
atte Fidel
Muchas Gracias
I have a 2008 mustang that I believe the alt has went out. It blew the fuse in the car, I replaced it it charged for about a minute. Took it off and brought it to my local part store to test it. My alternator blew the breaker on their machine twice. Would it be the voltage regulator?
The cause of overcharging is a three fold affliction. Battery, alternator, wiring. Most often a combination of battery and alternator replacement is the easiest but most expensive sure fix. If overcharging occurred for over an hour of driving time the battery may have boiled off electrolyte and never be the same. If the alternator regulator was exposed to over an hour of driving time while overcharging it would be considered untrustworthy.
awesome, now i can polish the casing easier.
Great video very helpful and descriptive I got a 92 Lincoln Towncar its got a 3G alternator with noisy bearings its sounds like a coffee grinder I tried replacing it with an amazon unit and it fixed the noise but for some odd reason just won't charge leaves me with no other choice than to rebuild
Not much quality control from the Amazon truck. People think it's such a smart choice, then find out different. The lucky ones didn't throw away their original equipment because you can't rebuild a knock off.
@@rebuilderinabox Very true I figured the quality would be about the same as local auto part stores but at a fraction of the cost and the strange thing is the alternator I bought off amazon tested fine thanks to your video I realized I replaced a 130amp alt. with a 95 amp but doubt that would be enough difference for it to not charge my battery?
@@giovannogalindo8785 Our site has a diagnostic video specific to your car on the kit page. Maybe run thru it and have your battery charged and checked.
130a & 95a (either or )should still reach 14VDC for testing purposes. It's only during driving demands, that you would notice a difference.
so, could I put the housing in a mart aluminum washer to clean it up?
BeardedWrencher Yes, the Mart Aluminum Washer can be used in cleaning the Housing.
Awesome, thank you so much!Mike Lauer
@mikelauer i want to increase voltage to approximately 14.8 when warm on my 3 g to match my 6g that has the black and green regulator im running dual alts for a stereo and i dont want a volt diference in charging and ive heard the diaode trick may burn out the alt. is there a regulator i can buy to match my pretolite 6g? thanks
Found this place. www.motorcityreman.com/fo3gstalwiex.html
how does one take that part you were working on at 14:49. the thing that holds the slip ring
Not feasible.
So if heard correctly you said the voltage regulator, brushes and slip ring are all interchangeable between the 95 amp and the 130 amp alternators?
Yes. OUR'S are. Anyone else's...don't know.
Thanks Mike. Any place i can order just the slip ring for the 3G 130 amp alternator? I want to rebuilt mine and i have everything except the slip ring. i can find some online but i dont know the dimensions.
Also what kind of solder can i use? any specific type? all i have is electronics solder (thin wire)at the moment. im not sure if it will hold the temperature.
mike another question. so i exchanged the adtermarket alternator for a new one. I installed the new one since i would like to rebuilt the original OEM one once i get the slip ring. The new alternator is also putting out 14.8v! which is the reason for the battery leaking acid from overcharge. I put the regulator from the old OEM alternator in the new one and the max voltage is 14.3 which is normal and my battery doesn't leak any acid. there obviously either bad quality regulator in these prostart alternator from auto parts. does the regulator in kit you advertise here puts out 14.3v max? i would like to get a new regulator in case the old one fails. Sorry for the questions but i believe that's why my battery failed in the 1st place because of the new alternator installed last May. i can try talking to the manager at the auto parts and see what he can do but i dont know if they will replace it. it seems like this is the normal voltage for these aftermarket alternator.
Probably, the battery may be on it's way out. 14.8 should not really cause the battery to boil. 15vdc is the borderline for OK or not OK. There are other factors as well but you didn't mention year, model, engine. If your vehicle likes 14.3, I think i'd just leave it alone.
need a kit for my 87 ford XLTf150 4X4 with 5.8L 4bbl but your site dose not list it
do yall carry parts?
all stock original truck other than complete emission system removal do to no longer required for inspection do to age
alt is starting to surge in and out can see both the gauge pulse and lite flickering at same time on and off still charging for the most part but wanna fix before it drops out completely
***** Are you sure that is not a 5.8. They did not make a 5.7 to my knowledge. Email me a a few pictures of your alternator and I will be able to quote you a price with the parts I can send you.
yes sorry 5.8L 351w
had a Chevy moment i corrected my post
Of course parts stores don't sell the kits. No you are supposed to buy a new reman because it costs more, people are lazy and we are throw away society. Our grand parents rebuilt everything and everything was built to last.
Google Name well....not everyone has time to rebuild a damn alternator. They need a working vehicle asap so just buy a new one and be done
Google Name That is sad but true !
So my f-150 alternator has two humps over the two area that you cut. They are no way to remove and replace this slip ring with out they fan being off and I am not sure how to remove that part.
That's a 6G. Watch the 6G how to movie.
My stater does not want to come out. I have a Ford E350 with 268,000 miles. I assume it’s just corroded bad. I have used heat and a hammer. Now it’s going to soak overnight with some WD-40 to see if that helps.
PB Blaster is much better. We use Blue Creeper Penetrating Oil. For us, that seems the best.
Mike Lauer, I ground a nail flat on the end and tapped it out. My corrosion is quite bad.
Wire wheel all the corrosion off and use some spray paint. Make sure aluminum housing is not cracked.
Why the red Loctite on the shaft that butts up against the bearing? Not understanding that purpose. I'm afraid it might seep into the bearing... and that wouldn't be good
With loctite, less is more. And trust the voice of experience.
Gary March .yeah I think the pully should squeeze that part of the bearing against the rotor and keep it locked from turning
the pulley uses a reverse thread?
No.
I tries disassembly with the method shown in the video. most of it was good. but when separating the black part from the front casing his way caused the cooper wires from the winding to break of. why didn't you just take off the pulley and hit the end of the shaft to pop it all out?
copper*
+Levi Nalder If you hit the shaft you can damage it and make it unusable. A really nice way to get the stator out of the casing is to thread the three through bolts in the front casing with the back plate removed. Then heat up the casing with a propane torch while tapping around the case. This will allow the stator to fall out. I have done this with great success on those stubborn alternators. Usually when the copper breaks off of the rectifier that can be soldered back on, in most cases.
Actually, we told you to hold on to the rectifier, backplate ass'y while tapping to prevent that. But that's a sign the alternator had way too much corrosion to begin with. We recommend that the alternator at least spins before you start. PS never tap on the shaft, the threads are very sensitive.
Mike why is it so hard to find this kind of info for a 2010 base mustang also same thing for its voltage regulator???? Point me please!
Ford switched to Denso in 2010. Not a good one to rebuild at home (for now).
Mike Lauer Thanks big time !
You`ve done this before, haven't ya? :)
Awesome instructions. One point to help you remember... Silicone (long "oh-h-h-h") is that soft stuff used in women's body augmentation (and caulking,) Silicon (short "o") is used in electronics. LOL And, the pully bolt is 15/16 (nearly an inch) not 5/16 as stated... not that anyone will care that I mention this... however, the first point made is more important for knowledge-sake.
He does say 15/16 socket. Not 5/16
@@mycontinental3611 he does call it 5/16 later though
great, but my 2000 Ford windstar has everything inside, So another design but good to see this anyhow.
right about 19:36 you state to put some red locktite on the shift, just curious as to why?? I'm at that point of assembly
It helps the inner race of the bearing establish a bond to the shaft. Not a crucial step if you can't get any, but a good idea.
@@rebuilderinabox that makes sense
Is the red battery post positive?
I'm positive it is +
This helps a lot. Thank you.
Do you really want to use 60 grit on the copper slip ring?
Would you feel better with 80?
I thought we said 80.
I agree as well ,my ranger alt.just died and i would much rather rebuild mine than get an overpriced one from a parts house,thanks Mike
He should have given the parts numbers for the bearings and brushes and slip ring.
He sells them. Why would he do that? lol
Just visit our site. Great prices, too.
And the new bearing you installed will wear prematurely now due over tightening of the nut you just hammered on with a 1/2 impact.
The advise of the in experienced. We have only been doing this professionally for 40 years. All the shops do it like this.
@@rebuilderinabox so you’ve been wrong for 40 years?hmm ok then
There are collars inside and outside the bearing on the the shaft, that are the size of the inner race. They ride on both sides of the inner race, so there is no pressure on the outer parts of the bearing. Just take one apart sometime, you'll see.
How to rebuild a 89 7.3 diesel
I don't use wire toothbrushes.. Man you literally got gums of steel!
2:52 AhhHaaammoment !!!
That's not a tooth brush, Homie, that's a teeth brush.
1994 when they started
Extensions as punches and screwdrivers as pry bars 🙄
Good observation for experienced mechanics with a big tool box. Our site is dedicated to the working man, in the trenches, in the USA with limited tools and limited income. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/