I don’t know why I find your videos so entertaining, I haven’t purchased a budget bike in decades, but I often find myself watching or listening to you for hours. If you need something unique manufactured for you reach out. I’ve got a CNC mill, CNC Lathe and Desktop Metal 3D printer that can print solid stainless steel. For that unique one-of-a-kind part.
That’s my favorite crankset for my bike projects. I have a boys roadmaster frame (I’m 5’6 with short legs) but everything has been replaced except the headset, fork, and front wheel. It’s my commuter and I love it. I’ve had it for 3 years with no problems.
I commented on the "Broken after 2 years" precursor to this video but have to add another "Thank you" here. I completed this install today and my Boundary feels like a new bike. I knew it had gotten crunchy but I guess I was blocking out how bad it actually was. The old bottom bracket had a handful of metal shavings in there so it was definitely shot. Now everything's nice and smooth. Thanks again for the time you take to make these videos. 👍
🤘☠️🖤 This kind of stuff is super helpful, especially in the day and age of the Ozark Trail Ridge. Any and all technical videos will be greatly appreciated.
As one of the folk who made the request: Thanks Kev! This is now on the to grab list. The 'action' set has been serving well, but having an upgrade over the square taper on hand 'just in case' is nice. Really appreciate the work you put in.
Great video Kevin! Learned so much watching your vids. Gives me confidence to try more repairs myself. I did a square taper crank set repair on my very old Gary Fisher and now I'll be ready to take on future repair/ upgrade on my polygon! Thanks!
Hey kev, thanks for the warning on the bountry. No problems yet. I have it since late feb. 2020. I'll be listening for it. Lol. I check tires pressure and pedals before I ride. Love the video!!
Hey kev, I have a question. You go to a bike shop to fix the bb and all they did was change the ball bearings and put every manufacturers thing back to save money and time. But they charge you for the cost of a new bb plus labor. Would you change everything for a new bb? Didn't you do a another video on the bountry about the stem ball bearings as well? My first bike was a green metallic Schwinn stingray with the banana seat and big handle bars. It took a beaten and nothing major when wrong with it. They don't build bikes like they use to.
Hello. That’s a standard BB rebuild. Yes. I did a video on the Boundary’s headset bearings at one point. Those stingrays are classic. The rereleased a variant of that not long ago I think
Happy to see this video for sure! That snail crank sprocket must be an optical illusion on camera because it doesn't look round... looks oval. I almost feel like this is the type of video that should be done at the time of purchase... Step 1: You buy a Walmart bike and take it home and take all the components off the bike. Step 2: you service everything... repack by, headset, wheel hubs etc and reassemble. Step 3: then you ride knowing that the factory equipment is functioning and installed to the best possible performance it can be. Step 4: then you upgrade as you can, but at least you now know A) how to take your bike apart and B) that an upgrade is based on spec change rather then replacement of dysfunctional factory equipment do to poor installation or improper service straight from the factory or retailer.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have an Schwinn AL Comp and I'm considering doing my first project with it so this was very helpful. If you are looking for more suggestions, I'd request one of converting from freewill to cassette. From my understanding, that might be a good progression from this one, but that would help me out as well. Thanks again.
Easy to understand and nicely paced instructional video. I replaced the crankset on my old 3x bike it was square taper but good to see this style of BB.
New Subscriber..Great videos and I love that you don't shy away from big box bike models to upgrade..Lots of changes for sure with some of the selections you can find. I'll be installing an IFX crank on my Diamondback Overdrive and your video set my mind at ease of it's difficulty level..Thank you for the tutorial.
Kev, I love the vids definitely keep them coming. I think the chainring is supposed to go on the other side, but I am not sure check for yourself. I have the same setup regarding the crankset and BB, but my chainring is on the other side.
I have that same Pittsburg torque wrench. I've had it for a lot of years. It has been dependable and works. White Lightening also makes some really good chain lube. It has become my go to.
This will most likely be my first attempt at upgrading my bike so I’m super excited to have this thorough a tutorial. One question though: when doing this myself on my Ozark Trail Ridge, how many of those spacer rings do I need and on what side? Will it be obvious somehow? Am I just trying to line the chain up in the middle of the cassette? Thanks a bunch!
Love this vid, I used your older video on how to upgrade to a 1x on a square taper bb and I’m sure this one will come in hand my when I take it a step further! My new bike is a specialized pitch and I’m planning to go 1x in the near future and this is looking like a good deal
I built 4 bikes with IXF crank installed on all of it. No problem at all after 2years of usage. But i dont like its BB, so I use Deore BB. As long as you diligently clean and service it, you won't have any major problem.
You hit the jackpot with that crankset. I have an IXF crankset on my hardtail that has been great! It has about 4K miles of both on and very rough trail use. My kit did not come with the fixing bolt , so I have basically hand fit it. I can't find the thread length of the fixing bolt published anywhere. Do you or anyone happen to know what the thread length of the fixing bolt?
Last April I put an IXF on an Axum. The 122mm spindle was so short that the outer pinch bolt didn't properly cover the spindle. The plastic end bolt barley reached the thread, it was basically useless. I ended up removing the drive side spacer and using an aluminum crank end bolt. The chain ring is really close to the swing but aligns ok with midpoint of the L-Twoo 10 speed and shifts flawlessly. I sucked the crankarms together with a long 3/8" bolt, nut and a couple of large washers. Not sure why the spindle can't have a 5mm longer option? In 2017 I was diagnosed with bladder cancer. I was told it was probably a result of working with solvents and not wearing gloves. Good choice with the nontoxic grease, otherwise always use an acid brush, they're cheap and can be used over and over again.
@@KevCentral Amazon. I'm still riding. The cancer needs to be delt with periodically. I avoid touching grease, oil and solvents, hence the acid brushes.
Did you ever spray brake cleaner/oven cleaner? I won't touch anything above turpentine without nitrile gloves. I was hoping these cranks could fit 83mm bottom brackets but from what you're saying there's no chance
Update: I live in SW Washington State, and I keep my Axum with my son in Las Vegas where I am now. I did put a spacer on the drive side of the BB leaving the left crank far from being totally seated. When I flew down here, I brought a slightly longer M19 crank end bolt to replace the shorter one and used flexible adhesive rather than Loctite on the threads. On a Gravity bike with a 68mm barrel, that is up in Washington, I installed a JGBike crankset, same 122mm spindle. I had one spacer on each side: same problem with the left crank arm not properly seated and the M19 held in with only a few threads, held in with Loctite. The left crankarm came off when I was climbing a hill resulting in a couple of injuries to my left knee and arm. I removed the spacer on the drive side, which put the center of the chainring 49.57mm from the center of the bike. The midpoint of the 10-speed cassette was 50mm from the center of the bike resulting in a perfect alignment, The left crankarm was now, just 1mm short of being fully seated. I used my headset bearing tool to draw the crank together, snug, not over torqued, tightened the clamp bolts and then installed a new, slightly longer M19 with flexible adhesive. I was able to get the pair of M19 crank end bolts from Walmart online for about $6. I made a video on the incident and how I corrected the problem. "WTF just happened and how not to install a Hollowtech crank."
Not a fan of IXF. For the same price, I use Prowheel Claw on my hardtails. In case anyone wants to replace the plastic crank tension bolt, IXF uses M19, Prowheel Claw uses M18 and Shimano usually uses M20 crank bolts.
I’m having to use it on one of the kits where I was shorted, but you can buy metal ones from Amazon. Also, if your crank is still attached and ok there is no immediate need to have the nut in place
Yeah i found that out the hard way of buying some. And yet they don't sell m19's. -.-. I lost my plastic preload for my IXF ones on my hyper. But still use the cranks. I just kinda did my own Push fit to it and it works. Plus i'm using a magnetic caden sensor wheel on it that i drilled the hole bigger to fit into place. Works well.
@opensource76 No you don't need to remove the plastic preload. That is just to get the arm tightened to the axle. Once the arm is bolted onto the axle from the 2 side arm bolts. It won't go anywhere or get loose. So you won't need to worry about the preload. So there is no need to remove it.
Kev, you should mention that the chain goes on the chain ring a certain way if it is a narrow-wide. I would have kept the factory crankset, since I adjust the tightness before riding, which would make the bearings last a lot longer. But I wanted to try the 32 tooth oval, so I used this IXF one. My only complaint is that the spline portion seems too short for 73mm BB by 5mm.
Not sure if you're still replying to comments on this particular video, but I bought one of these cranksets for a Kent Trouvaille. I installed it probably a week and a half ago and so far have had no problems, but I'm not sure if I needed spacers or not? I personally haven't figured out if I needed to have one or not, but if I do I would like to get that sorted before something catastrophic happens. Thanks in advance if you happen to reply.
great video! I am an amateur cyclist and am doing some upgrades on my Walmart sidewinder, 2021. do you think your setup would work for that bike? thanks!
You should still put a thin layer of grease on any component that can have water ingress, which includes the shaft. Of course it just needs to be the thinnest of thin but some protection from the elements is better than none.
Really appreciate this video, working on a boundry now. I don't have a bike shop any where near me, I have to travel a long way to one, this will save me a trip and hard earned money!.. Any tips for removal of factory crankset/bb, or is it just basically opposite of this install?
I didn’t but this crankset cause I wanted a better bottom bracket so I bought a more expensive one and it stripped out after I hit a jump hopefully this one proves better on the trails I’m getting this one maybe next this Monday
Is that BB shell faced from the factory? Color me impressed if a Walmart bike frame comes that way. BTW, it's a good idea to brease the spli es on the spindle before you install the non-drive crank arm. It'll help it go on easier and when you install the bearing preload bolt, you won't be putting as much stress on those plastic threads. Cheers!
On another video, I asked for information on my Kent Trouvaille. I have a horrifying bottom bracket tool that has the splines tapered at the end. The bottom bracket nuts(?) are already very shallow. The tool already has a lot of play. I have stopped trying to use that and ordered a tool and torque wrench set (the one you indicated isn't available on Amazon at the moment). I'll wait until the new tool gets here before trying further. I'm reasonably sure clockwise (to the front and down as you say) is the correct direction but would appreciate a confirmation or correction of this before the tool gets here. Hope to hear back from you!
You can use this crankset for a 3 chainring setup as well right? I noticed that it has inner holes as well for an inner chainring. Are those for a 64bcd chainring?
@@janeblogs324 I’m assuming they are cup and cone with loose bearings? I’ve seen people install sealed bearing cartridges in place of the loose bearings.
@@dreamweaver5869 I've only seen 1 youtuber do it. He just plonked the square sealed bearings in the round cup hole. Wouldn't even last a mile, nothing retained the bearings
So how many spacers does 68 MM use then? How many on which side? You said in the beginning but then you said that you were going to have to look it up again and never said anything about it after that.
I put one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side like you did (73mm BB shell). However, it looks like my chainline would be slightly better if there were no spacer. I also measured the horizontal distance between each crank and the edge of the seat tube and the drive side is approximately 3mm further away... It looks like I should run it with no spacers?
1 day too late, I just installed mine yesterday lol. I didnt use any spacers, my BB is 73mm. Is that bad? Should I take it apart to put 1 spacer like you did? Also, been watching your videos for awhile, just realized I wasn't subscribed so I made sure to hit that button!
The spacer on the drive side that’s spec required for 73mm is to provide an offset for chain line. That said, ‘spec’ and what works can vary. I have bikes with using the same setup that have varying spacer configurations that aren’t by the book.
I have a question if you don't mind..the axum that I've got came with 29x2.60 tires on it..I want to go down to 29x2.30 on it...is that even possible?..what do you think ?
Kev I have spoken with a few people and they all say I cant put a 28t chainring crank on my bike. I currently have a 30t with race face crank. Any advice or knowledge would be great. The only option I have is to go with a 30t oval. Unless I change my entire drive train. I am not sure if that will be enough. Any suggestions?
What's the largest front chainring you can put on the Boundary? Got a couple Boundarys for my kids at college, but they complain they are too slow on flat road given the front 30 tooth chainring. I actually have an Axum and put a 38 tooth on it without issue (one spacer on the drive side), but I know the chain stay design is different between these two bikes.
If it's not going in smooth and easy, you are cross-threading. It is quite easy to strip aluminum threads with a steel pedal bolt. Though, it is nowhere as bad of a day as when you strip your cylinder head's threads by cross-threading a spark plug.
Does it fit 83mm bottom brackets? How wide were your unused/used spacers? Price? I've been looking at these kits but they weren't much cheaper than new SRAM/rf cranks
What type of material that crank axle use? I was wondering if i could get one of these to replace my square taper and the crank from 3x8 to 2x8. Would like a reply please
It's alum arms with a steel axle hollow tech cranks. I have a set on my hyper. Just make sure to tighten the left arm fairly firmly. I heard person on amazon said they stripped theirs. But likely probably because they were loose on the teeth. I haven't had any problems with mine. Just missing the preload plastic cap. But it works well. I got 2 modified cadensensors on my left side with a magnetic wheel.
5:05, shouldn’t you put the bare minimum amount of spacers on the drive side, to get the straightest chain line. As long as the chain ring and crank arms aren’t hitting the frame, what would be the problem?
As below. So if your arms are to far away from the frame. You need to have less spacers on the drive side. Like my Hyper E-ride. I have 0 on the drive and 1 on the non-drive. 1 i have on the non-drive because the 2nd supposed ring is of 2 caden sensors. So it supposedly has 2. Even then my drive side is still sticking alittle far out. So i had to use a 2byX chain-ring bolts with rings to bring the chain-ring more towards the frame. Works.
Total beginner. Bought this cheap for casual rides thru neighborhood and some longer rides on road. Mine has a 30t... Would like to go up to maybe 34t. Is that possible without having to change to much in the back? Thanks
Going to be honest. I've watched a few videos on installing these type cranksets. Yours is by far the clearest and easiest to watch. Great tutorial.
I don’t know why I find your videos so entertaining, I haven’t purchased a budget bike in decades, but I often find myself watching or listening to you for hours.
If you need something unique manufactured for you reach out. I’ve got a CNC mill, CNC Lathe and Desktop Metal 3D printer that can print solid stainless steel. For that unique one-of-a-kind part.
That’s my favorite crankset for my bike projects. I have a boys roadmaster frame (I’m 5’6 with short legs) but everything has been replaced except the headset, fork, and front wheel. It’s my commuter and I love it. I’ve had it for 3 years with no problems.
I commented on the "Broken after 2 years" precursor to this video but have to add another "Thank you" here. I completed this install today and my Boundary feels like a new bike. I knew it had gotten crunchy but I guess I was blocking out how bad it actually was. The old bottom bracket had a handful of metal shavings in there so it was definitely shot. Now everything's nice and smooth. Thanks again for the time you take to make these videos. 👍
so happy to see more how to videos again
rode my ixf crank for more than 5000km already for 2 years and it's still good as new
🤘☠️🖤 This kind of stuff is super helpful, especially in the day and age of the Ozark Trail Ridge. Any and all technical videos will be greatly appreciated.
Those crank sets are such a great deal. They do a great job so unless you're a brand name hound or a pro Racer it's just the way to go.
As one of the folk who made the request: Thanks Kev!
This is now on the to grab list. The 'action' set has been serving well, but having an upgrade over the square taper on hand 'just in case' is nice.
Really appreciate the work you put in.
Great video im got you tune in to watch thank s keep up the good work
Adolph
Great video Kevin! Learned so much watching your vids. Gives me confidence to try more repairs myself. I did a square taper crank set repair on my very old Gary Fisher and now I'll be ready to take on future repair/ upgrade on my polygon! Thanks!
For non clutch derailleurs, even a small inexpensive chainguide will keep your chain in place.
Hey kev, thanks for the warning on the bountry. No problems yet. I have it since late feb. 2020. I'll be listening for it. Lol. I check tires pressure and pedals before I ride. Love the video!!
Hey kev, I have a question. You go to a bike shop to fix the bb and all they did was change the ball bearings and put every manufacturers thing back to save money and time. But they charge you for the cost of a new bb plus labor. Would you change everything for a new bb? Didn't you do a another video on the bountry about the stem ball bearings as well? My first bike was a green metallic Schwinn stingray with the banana seat and big handle bars. It took a beaten and nothing major when wrong with it. They don't build bikes like they use to.
Hello. That’s a standard BB rebuild. Yes. I did a video on the Boundary’s headset bearings at one point. Those stingrays are classic. The rereleased a variant of that not long ago I think
Happy to see this video for sure! That snail crank sprocket must be an optical illusion on camera because it doesn't look round... looks oval.
I almost feel like this is the type of video that should be done at the time of purchase...
Step 1: You buy a Walmart bike and take it home and take all the components off the bike.
Step 2: you service everything... repack by, headset, wheel hubs etc and reassemble.
Step 3: then you ride knowing that the factory equipment is functioning and installed to the best possible performance it can be.
Step 4: then you upgrade as you can, but at least you now know A) how to take your bike apart and B) that an upgrade is based on spec change rather then replacement of dysfunctional factory equipment do to poor installation or improper service straight from the factory or retailer.
Lot better than what comes on the bikes from factory. Nice vid Kev!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have an Schwinn AL Comp and I'm considering doing my first project with it so this was very helpful. If you are looking for more suggestions, I'd request one of converting from freewill to cassette. From my understanding, that might be a good progression from this one, but that would help me out as well. Thanks again.
Just installed one on my GT hardtail. Impressed with quality at price. Got crank and a 34 tooth narrow wide chainring for $52 including tax on Amazon.
Been nervous about changing out crank on my axum. Thanks for the awesome video.
Easy to understand and nicely paced instructional video. I replaced the crankset on my old 3x bike it was square taper but good to see this style of BB.
New Subscriber..Great videos and I love that you don't shy away from big box bike models to upgrade..Lots of changes for sure with some of the selections you can find.
I'll be installing an IFX crank on my Diamondback Overdrive and your video set my mind at ease of it's difficulty level..Thank you for the tutorial.
Just got the ixf crankset can't wait to get it installed
I just noticed you're running a Box 3 drive train. Interesting. Nice job Kev. Take care.
Exactly the info I needed! Doing this on my boundary soon! Thanks for the vid!
Kev, I love the vids definitely keep them coming. I think the chainring is supposed to go on the other side, but I am not sure check for yourself. I have the same setup regarding the crankset and BB, but my chainring is on the other side.
I have that same Pittsburg torque wrench. I've had it for a lot of years. It has been dependable and works. White Lightening also makes some really good chain lube. It has become my go to.
Thanks. The bottom bracket bearing on my Al Comp just failed so this is really helpful.
This will most likely be my first attempt at upgrading my bike so I’m super excited to have this thorough a tutorial. One question though: when doing this myself on my Ozark Trail Ridge, how many of those spacer rings do I need and on what side? Will it be obvious somehow? Am I just trying to line the chain up in the middle of the cassette?
Thanks a bunch!
Might do it myself you made it look so easy thanks
Love this vid, I used your older video on how to upgrade to a 1x on a square taper bb and I’m sure this one will come in hand my when I take it a step further! My new bike is a specialized pitch and I’m planning to go 1x in the near future and this is looking like a good deal
Great video, I'm thinking of changing the crankset soon & this video is helpful. Thanks Kev Central.
I built 4 bikes with IXF crank installed on all of it. No problem at all after 2years of usage. But i dont like its BB, so I use Deore BB.
As long as you diligently clean and service it, you won't have any major problem.
Thank you for sharing this library of knowledge.
That chainring wrench does come in handy
Great video. I’d love to see more content like this!
Great install video,Kev!
I have a 68mm bottom bracket and can’t seem to find a manual or directions anywhere to find out how many spacers to use. Thanks for posting this.
11:11 I've had the same issue with Shimano at times so dont worry. As long as you beat it off carefully and dont make a mess. Fnar fnar!
Just did this! Thanks so much for your tutorial.
Great video very informative good to see this taking time to show how to do it 👍
You can put some grease on the inside lip of the chainring bolts as they tend to bind as they are tightened.
Nice video. Very clear and concise .
Great video I just really enjoy your videos
Wonderful tips, Wonderful instruction. Thanks very much!
Thank you brother! This video was very informative!!
Nothing boring about watching a guy wrenching on his bike! I like these vids keep them coming!!
Wow, your timing is impeccable. I was thinking of updating my drive chain.
Follow up, are all bottom bracket the same diameter? What sort of considerations do you have to make when choosing one to purchase?
No, but I’m the MTB world all the bikes I upgrade use a standard bsa 68~73
You hit the jackpot with that crankset. I have an IXF crankset on my hardtail that has been great! It has about 4K miles of both on and very rough trail use. My kit did not come with the fixing bolt , so I have basically hand fit it. I can't find the thread length of the fixing bolt published anywhere. Do you or anyone happen to know what the thread length of the fixing bolt?
I used an alloy M19 fixing bolt with thread lock. It is not very common size though. Ordered at Amazon...pricy for what it is.
Last April I put an IXF on an Axum. The 122mm spindle was so short that the outer pinch bolt didn't properly cover the spindle. The plastic end bolt barley reached the thread, it was basically useless. I ended up removing the drive side spacer and using an aluminum crank end bolt. The chain ring is really close to the swing but aligns ok with midpoint of the L-Twoo 10 speed and shifts flawlessly. I sucked the crankarms together with a long 3/8" bolt, nut and a couple of large washers. Not sure why the spindle can't have a 5mm longer option?
In 2017 I was diagnosed with bladder cancer. I was told it was probably a result of working with solvents and not wearing gloves. Good choice with the nontoxic grease, otherwise always use an acid brush, they're cheap and can be used over and over again.
Did you order your iXF from alibaba/AliExpress?
Edit: I hope your health is doing well
@@KevCentral Amazon. I'm still riding. The cancer needs to be delt with periodically. I avoid touching grease, oil and solvents, hence the acid brushes.
Take care of yourself. I expect you to be watching my videos for years to come 😁
Did you ever spray brake cleaner/oven cleaner?
I won't touch anything above turpentine without nitrile gloves.
I was hoping these cranks could fit 83mm bottom brackets but from what you're saying there's no chance
Update: I live in SW Washington State, and I keep my Axum with my son in Las Vegas where I am now. I did put a spacer on the drive side of the BB leaving the left crank far from being totally seated. When I flew down here, I brought a slightly longer M19 crank end bolt to replace the shorter one and used flexible adhesive rather than Loctite on the threads.
On a Gravity bike with a 68mm barrel, that is up in Washington, I installed a JGBike crankset, same 122mm spindle. I had one spacer on each side: same problem with the left crank arm not properly seated and the M19 held in with only a few threads, held in with Loctite. The left crankarm came off when I was climbing a hill resulting in a couple of injuries to my left knee and arm.
I removed the spacer on the drive side, which put the center of the chainring 49.57mm from the center of the bike. The midpoint of the 10-speed cassette was 50mm from the center of the bike resulting in a perfect alignment, The left crankarm was now, just 1mm short of being fully seated. I used my headset bearing tool to draw the crank together, snug, not over torqued, tightened the clamp bolts and then installed a new, slightly longer M19 with flexible adhesive.
I was able to get the pair of M19 crank end bolts from Walmart online for about $6.
I made a video on the incident and how I corrected the problem. "WTF just happened and how not to install a Hollowtech crank."
Not a fan of IXF. For the same price, I use Prowheel Claw on my hardtails. In case anyone wants to replace the plastic crank tension bolt, IXF uses M19, Prowheel Claw uses M18 and Shimano usually uses M20 crank bolts.
That silver crank arm in the video is a Prowheel Claw 😁. Thanks for sharing the fitting bolt sizes
@@KevCentral Hey Kevin how much do you want for the second crank tension bolt i crashed and broke mine on my ixf crank.
I’m having to use it on one of the kits where I was shorted, but you can buy metal ones from Amazon. Also, if your crank is still attached and ok there is no immediate need to have the nut in place
Yeah i found that out the hard way of buying some. And yet they don't sell m19's. -.-.
I lost my plastic preload for my IXF ones on my hyper. But still use the cranks. I just kinda did my own Push fit to it and it works. Plus i'm using a magnetic caden sensor wheel on it that i drilled the hole bigger to fit into place. Works well.
@opensource76 No you don't need to remove the plastic preload. That is just to get the arm tightened to the axle. Once the arm is bolted onto the axle from the 2 side arm bolts. It won't go anywhere or get loose. So you won't need to worry about the preload. So there is no need to remove it.
Kevin, one more thing. A light coat of olive oil makes that paint and graphics shine and really pop. It brings out that metal flake to. FYI
Great info! Love tutorials like this. Do you have a video on installing a fork or the workings of the head tube?
I believe I have one for the headset and fork
Kev, you should mention that the chain goes on the chain ring a certain way if it is a narrow-wide.
I would have kept the factory crankset, since I adjust the tightness before riding, which would make the bearings last a lot longer. But I wanted to try the 32 tooth oval, so I used this IXF one. My only complaint is that the spline portion seems too short for 73mm BB by 5mm.
I'm thinking of buying 27.5 in rims and tires for boundary. Was it worth it for you?
Not sure if you're still replying to comments on this particular video, but I bought one of these cranksets for a Kent Trouvaille. I installed it probably a week and a half ago and so far have had no problems, but I'm not sure if I needed spacers or not? I personally haven't figured out if I needed to have one or not, but if I do I would like to get that sorted before something catastrophic happens. Thanks in advance if you happen to reply.
30t chainrings usually come threaded, anything bigger is bolt thru
great video! I am an amateur cyclist and am doing some upgrades on my Walmart sidewinder, 2021. do you think your setup would work for that bike? thanks!
You should still put a thin layer of grease on any component that can have water ingress, which includes the shaft. Of course it just needs to be the thinnest of thin but some protection from the elements is better than none.
nothing like a good old crank job
If you don't have a torque wrench, you can always tighten it to German specs, Gutentight
Really appreciate this video, working on a boundry now. I don't have a bike shop any where near me, I have to travel a long way to one, this will save me a trip and hard earned money!..
Any tips for removal of factory crankset/bb, or is it just basically opposite of this install?
Thanks. I talk about removing the parts in this video:
ruclips.net/video/mF9Sjm3n4Ck/видео.html
I didn’t but this crankset cause I wanted a better bottom bracket so I bought a more expensive one and it stripped out after I hit a jump hopefully this one proves better on the trails I’m getting this one maybe next this Monday
Is that BB shell faced from the factory? Color me impressed if a Walmart bike frame comes that way.
BTW, it's a good idea to brease the spli es on the spindle before you install the non-drive crank arm. It'll help it go on easier and when you install the bearing preload bolt, you won't be putting as much stress on those plastic threads.
Cheers!
How did you determine what spacers were needed? And how did you know what side the spacer was to be placed on?
There is a spec chart for this style setup. That said, there are cases where I’ve had to vary the spacer count and/or side to get things perfect.
On another video, I asked for information on my Kent Trouvaille. I have a horrifying bottom bracket tool that has the splines tapered at the end. The bottom bracket nuts(?) are already very shallow. The tool already has a lot of play. I have stopped trying to use that and ordered a tool and torque wrench set (the one you indicated isn't available on Amazon at the moment). I'll wait until the new tool gets here before trying further. I'm reasonably sure clockwise (to the front and down as you say) is the correct direction but would appreciate a confirmation or correction of this before the tool gets here. Hope to hear back from you!
You can use this crankset for a 3 chainring setup as well right? I noticed that it has inner holes as well for an inner chainring. Are those for a 64bcd chainring?
Hey Kev have you ever replaced stock wheel bearings on any of the Schwinns? Wondering what size sealed bearings they would take?
Not in a long while. The wheels get replaced before I have to do that 😁.
@@KevCentral Would you happen to have a link to the sealed bearings or be able to measure? I’m kinda on a budget 👍
Surely they are cup and cone?
@@janeblogs324 I’m assuming they are cup and cone with loose bearings? I’ve seen people install sealed bearing cartridges in place of the loose bearings.
@@dreamweaver5869 I've only seen 1 youtuber do it. He just plonked the square sealed bearings in the round cup hole. Wouldn't even last a mile, nothing retained the bearings
Cool vid, would this exact same set up be the exact same with the al comp? I picked up one last month from a guy from FB and want to start modding it
For quick reference, pinch bolts should be torqued to 12Nm. This seems to be the only place I can find that online.
Kev can you please do a E-bike kit installation on the project boundary.I have the Schwinn Boundary 29er and I can’t find a E-bike kit to buy
So how many spacers does 68 MM use then? How many on which side? You said in the beginning but then you said that you were going to have to look it up again and never said anything about it after that.
I would like to see you change the chain ring? Just the chain ring and still use the stock crank on a mongoose malus or hitch.
I put one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side like you did (73mm BB shell). However, it looks like my chainline would be slightly better if there were no spacer. I also measured the horizontal distance between each crank and the edge of the seat tube and the drive side is approximately 3mm further away... It looks like I should run it with no spacers?
Please help!
I lost the fitting nut. What is the thread measrment? Or whrre can i find a replacement? Please help and thanks in advance
I'm dropping my polygon off tomorrow morning then picking up my trek up bottom bracket and tune up is done
Kevin are you gonna take it back out on the trail?
Excellent vidéo as always. Do you know where we can get more fitting bolts for the crank arm of the ixf?
1 day too late, I just installed mine yesterday lol. I didnt use any spacers, my BB is 73mm. Is that bad? Should I take it apart to put 1 spacer like you did? Also, been watching your videos for awhile, just realized I wasn't subscribed so I made sure to hit that button!
You should be alright as long as crank is spinning properly. The spacers are to make up for having a 68 mm bb instead of 73.
The spacer on the drive side that’s spec required for 73mm is to provide an offset for chain line. That said, ‘spec’ and what works can vary. I have bikes with using the same setup that have varying spacer configurations that aren’t by the book.
@@KevCentral Thanks for the reply. My chainline seems good but I haven't rode it yet, I'll test it out and add it if necessary. Keep up the good work!
I was just looking for this video because I need to switch Aluminium comp and Axum DP
Boring yet intriguing and educational in one shot! How did you do that?😬
Don’t forget to grease the spline of the spindle and the threads of the spindle bolt!
I have a question if you don't mind..the axum that I've got came with 29x2.60 tires on it..I want to go down to 29x2.30 on it...is that even possible?..what do you think ?
Yes
Not a bad crank set for the money, I've used mine with a 32t oval chainring
I’ve had my eyes on these since buying my budget Ozone Trail Hawk. Just have yet to see what size I need.
Kev I have spoken with a few people and they all say I cant put a 28t chainring crank on my bike. I currently have a 30t with race face crank. Any advice or knowledge would be great. The only option I have is to go with a 30t oval. Unless I change my entire drive train. I am not sure if that will be enough. Any suggestions?
What's the largest front chainring you can put on the Boundary? Got a couple Boundarys for my kids at college, but they complain they are too slow on flat road given the front 30 tooth chainring. I actually have an Axum and put a 38 tooth on it without issue (one spacer on the drive side), but I know the chain stay design is different between these two bikes.
11:18 thats what she said.
🤣
hi sir: grate job! i wana upgrade my old bc. can i do this at 3X7 to 1X7 crankset ? i have the same old BB like u got. thanks.
If it's not going in smooth and easy, you are cross-threading. It is quite easy to strip aluminum threads with a steel pedal bolt. Though, it is nowhere as bad of a day as when you strip your cylinder head's threads by cross-threading a spark plug.
Helicoil to the rescue!
Thanks for the video my friend kev
Does it fit 83mm bottom brackets? How wide were your unused/used spacers?
Price? I've been looking at these kits but they weren't much cheaper than new SRAM/rf cranks
Fits 68-73
Thanks for the great tutorial
Glad it was helpful!
Can you try KOOZER XF2046 wheel sets? They look good with a great price but don't know how they perform
If only you'd shown us the crank to chain stay clearance and chain line you achieved
What type of material that crank axle use? I was wondering if i could get one of these to replace my square taper and the crank from 3x8 to 2x8.
Would like a reply please
It's alum arms with a steel axle hollow tech cranks. I have a set on my hyper. Just make sure to tighten the left arm fairly firmly. I heard person on amazon said they stripped theirs. But likely probably because they were loose on the teeth. I haven't had any problems with mine. Just missing the preload plastic cap. But it works well. I got 2 modified cadensensors on my left side with a magnetic wheel.
@@KillerRaptorr Ah I see. Well if that so then i would probably buy it to replace my shimano square taper crankset. What size is the preload cap? M18?
@@toyotacivic2548 m19 on ixfs
Why was orientation of the chin ring needed, is it an oval ?
5:05, shouldn’t you put the bare minimum amount of spacers on the drive side, to get the straightest chain line. As long as the chain ring and crank arms aren’t hitting the frame, what would be the problem?
Chainring should be at the centre line of cassette when mounted.
As below. So if your arms are to far away from the frame. You need to have less spacers on the drive side. Like my Hyper E-ride. I have 0 on the drive and 1 on the non-drive. 1 i have on the non-drive because the 2nd supposed ring is of 2 caden sensors. So it supposedly has 2.
Even then my drive side is still sticking alittle far out. So i had to use a 2byX chain-ring bolts with rings to bring the chain-ring more towards the frame. Works.
when installed on a 68mm bb shell, where and how many spacers do I need to use?
Is there a way to add a second chainring to make it a 2x?
Total beginner. Bought this cheap for casual rides thru neighborhood and some longer rides on road. Mine has a 30t... Would like to go up to maybe 34t. Is that possible without having to change to much in the back? Thanks
You shouldn't have to do anything to the back if you are just changing to 34T
I have it, with a Deckas chainring. It works just as good as any cheaper shimano crank or something lime this
what if I didn't use the tube ? and what If my non drive crank still has some spline space on the outside ?