@Brisdad53 THIS. I'm all for 1Xs, but when you keep the old low-range cassette, going 1X is really a downgrade, even if you are shedding weight. (And let's be honest, if someone has a Walmart/cheap bike, they don't care that much about what their bike weighs.)
@@octogintillion Depends what you're starting with. I have a 13-40 8-speed on the rear so converting to a single from a double or triple crank set with anything between 30 and 34 teeth works well for a mountain bike.
I like converting all my bikes to 1x drive trains cause I do all my own work and I suck at adjusting front derailleurs, but I tell people it's to save weight...
Starting my conversation today! Tool showed up so I can pop my old cranks off. Yet again, another win from KevCentral having this video up! Super excited. Thanks for always helping us when we own big box bikes! Keep it up Kev. 💙🐨💙
I have installed two sets of these with success. One was on a buddies bike who is a casual neighborhood rider. The other was on my daughters bike. I've had no issues with them and will absolutely order again.
Tip: Don't break your derailleur to get your chain freed from it. Spend $10 and get a chain breaker tool. Many bike multitools have them too. You will use the chain breaker tool often enough to justify the price.
I suppose you could also use bolt or sheet metal cutters. I personally like to try to salvage old parts. You never know when your junk might be just what the next guy needs.
I had a front derailleur in the past that had a rivet through it and at the time didn't have a chain break so I drilled out the rivet and when I was done with it I put a bolt and nut on it and put it on another bike.
I found your channel, and I love your no-nonsense take on everything. I just about fell out of my chair laughing when you called it a "kick bike"! Keep the videos coming!
Hows the ixf holding up today? I'm looking to convert my 3x to 1x as well and I'm thinking if the ixf is durable without quality issues? Was looking to remove the square taper BB and go hollowtech route. Am looking to replace the tourney 3x to advent x 1x setup with the ixf. What do you say? :)
Gave you a thumbs up. You shepherd the weak through the valley of darkness, you truly are your brother's keeper and the finder of lost children (to paraphrase Jules) 👏
Kev, Thanks for this video! I am upgrading and restoring my vintage 1989 Trek 830. This has been the most useful yet (and I've seen many) video on how to convert a low end bike shop bike to different gearing. I'm going to go through your library and see more of your work. All my riding here in Florida is flat, sometimes a modest hill. I am preparing to bike the Coast to Coast Trail which goes from the Atlantic to the Gulf of Mexico east to west. Your videos give me the confidence to attempt this upgrade. Thanks again.
Thanks for the fun idea, inspiration and how-to, Kev! I completed a 1x8 conversion on my hybrid using the Ganopper square taper crank and a 32T chain ring (a no-decal version of the Actions you used). I've taken two 30 mile test rides including a few hills and I really enjoyed the simplified no-brainer gearing. Seems perfect for a hybrid. The original 8mm x 22mm length crank arm bolts seemed too long for a proper seal with the new apparently slimmer crank arms so I installed new 8mm x 15mm long bolts which fit and sealed perfectly. I removed the front derailleur and shift cable, but kept the Shimano brake/shifter which works perfectly. Terrific!!
The number of teeth doesn’t change where you mount the chainring. You mount it on the inside where the 2nd ring on the 3x would be to maintain optimal chain line.
Not true. The Snail chainrings (and many others) have lip designs that mount on the inside of iXF and similar cranks. Look at an iXF on Amazon. You’ll see in the pictures they show to mount 30t on the inside, larger on the outside.
While it is considered bad practice to cross chain, you don't shift your front to just keep optimal chain line. You shift to get the gear ratio needed. When you shift the front, you typically shift the rear along with it to maintain a steady cadence. Go to large in the front, and you shift to a larger in the rear for example. To do what I think you are saying would have you constantly shifting with big changes in cadence
IMO you should be right. Makes no sense to change the chain line to a less optimal position but that is, apparently, what they have done with larger tooth chain rings.
Interesting discussion. I just upgrade my nishiki colorado w/+ tires. I mounted the 32T chain ring in the inside. A few other sources i found it's recommended to add 1 spacer on the drive side of BB on the ixf. And if i had mounted the chainring on the outside, i will not be able to shift to the largest rear sprocket because of the extreme angle.
Fist and foremost your videos pointed me into the “budget mtb scene” and I’m appreciative for all the great info that you’ve posted!! My question is I received an oval 32t chainring (tho I ordered a round 34t) with a set of ixf cranks. As far as mounting this to the cranks- are they still mounted on the outside of the crank arm posts as you stated? Just wondering since the oval chainring is a “30” on its thinner side. I’m gonna give the oval a chance before going back to round. Thank you again for all you do!
A torque wrench comes in handy so you dont overtighten and mushroom your square taper crank. Dont use a lot of grease. Just the lightest film. Some Shimano square taper bottom brackets have a stop to prevent overtightening on drive side. Still have to be careful on other side. Once you overtighten its not fixable.
The chief benefit of big-box bikes starting to use 1x is that new riders have less confusion learning to shift. 3x7 may give you a big number to put on a sales tag and impress laypeople, but it's just about the worst experience possible. I think everyone I've ever introduced a 3x7 to has come back in a couple weeks telling me they didn't understand how it was supposed to work and just left it in the gear that made the least noise.
Just got this crankset for my 1996 Gary Fisher Big Sur that I was given. Trying to outfit it to be a good trail bike! Shoutout to Florence, really miss living there
I have been trying to do this for my 10 yrs old son Schwinn 24" aluminum hard tail. But I didn't know wat to buy and wat to do. Thanks to your video. I will rewatch it hundred times to make sure I know how
I recently upgraded my kid’s bikes with this 1x setup. One was a 24” Nishiki Pueblo 3x7 and the other a 20” 40T 1x 7. They noticed the difference and able to make it up the inclines at our local trail with ease.
I literally just did this to my son's bike. We bought him a used 2015 Trek Marlin 6 for $300. I went with the Marlin 6 because it had a freehub on the back and we could upgrade the cassette. It came with a 3x8 on it originally. I got a used sram x-9 10 speed group set for $60. I sold the cranks and front derailleur/shifter it came with for $40. New 10 speed chain was $30. It took me a while to find these exact same cranks on eBay but they were the only ones I found that would work with a square tapered bottom bracket. I opted to go with an oval 32t chainring. So, for less than $100, he was upgraded from a 3x8 to a 1x10. The only thing I worry about is the chain line but everything is working great so far.
Thanks for making this video, because that's the exact new set I'm buying. I'm getting the red 32 teeth, oval version and I can't wait. I never ever move out of the first chain ring round here, it's always up hill and on the downhills I just like to rest and free wheel, because I go bike packing and its not about speed for me it's about big miles with less calories.
Best freaking video I have seen in literally months. Thank you so much for such a simple yet incredible video. I needed this one. I really can’t thank you enough.
Kev, I love your videos and have been a fan for years. I did want to mention as others have about chainring location. This comes from 12 years of being a professional mechanic with multiple certifications within the cycling industry. A 1x chainring should be mounted on the inside of the crankset for proper chain line. Small adjustments, if needed, should be done with spacers on the bottom bracket shell or a longer BB Spindle, depending on what BB standard you are using. Once again, I love your channel and your projects. I’ve done this for years for fun with extra throw away parts from the shop. I built up a GMC Denali road bike with a full Campagnolo Centaur drivetrain with Campy Vento wheels. I also built up a Mongoose Deception with Shimano SLX and Rockshox Reba Fork. One of the last I did was a Mongoose XR Pro, but the crazy steep head tube and very long chainstays just never rode well.
It's totally worth it to invest in the tools and knowledge to replace your factory square taper on a big box bike. When I converted my big box fat bike from square taper 3x to a 1x Hollowtech II bottom bracket the weight difference was huge. It went from 2.6kg for the bottom bracket and cranks to 1.3kg! Cheap steel square taper BBs are HEAVY.
Just worked on a friends Mongoose dept. store bike. Oh my God that thing is HEAVY. Almost got a hernia bringing it up from the basement. I swear the frame tubes are solid😂
Great upgrade! I would add with the chain ring, it can go on either side of the crank but depending on the bike you want it as centered as possible between the highest and lowest gears to avoid more binding and premature drive train wear.
One advantage of square taper BB is that you can use a different axel length to obtain the correct chain line. For example, i went from a 127mm axel to a 107mm, which is 2 whole centimeters of a jump. You can't put 8 plastic spacers in between external cup BB and the BB shell...
I put this on my gf's bike over a year ago. Works awesome for someone who isn't "seriously" into biking. I did a 1x 10 speed conversion (11-36T cassette w/30T CR) with a Shimano clutched derailleur for about $50CAD after I sold all the parts that came on the bike.
Thanks for the video! I took the plunge and made the conversion. And I am anything but a bike mechanic. Took maybe an hour and zero problems. I will say that I had to go with a larger chainring (34T) for more speed and power as I ride in the city a lot. Anyway thanks. Wouldn't have had the courage without your video and recommendations.
Kev thanks for this vid, I had to re-visit it, your gonna crack up- I found a "Walmart" Roadmaster in the dumpster putting some upgrades changing it to 1 x7 now also put wider bars and better shifters .
Wow, i was just looking for some cheap taper crankset like...15 mins ago, needed a taper set for a free bike i got.. Thanks for the link! Just bought a set. I used ixf as well, it a nice kit, but need some trial and error with the spacers on my plus size tires.
Thank you for this video. I literally just bought these crank arms and exact tool you are using from Amazon just the other day. Still waiting on the crank arms but now I've seen your video im really excited and more confident they will be great.
Did this to a GT Aggressor. The crankset was "Bucklos" from Amazon, chainring was 32 tooth. The chain line was so far to the outside there was no chance making it right. Tried putting the ring inside and it only helped a little. Was so mad I ground the rivets/chainrings off the original crankset. Works fine with the remaining middle ring.
You can use pretty much any mtb crankset to get 1x by only putting a ring of the proper BCD at the the middle spot, and even the IXF and Action cranksets are just 3x in hiding. It is why they have that milled part on the outside and the threaded posts on the inside.
For those going 1x remember to buy a narrow wide chainring and if you don't have a square taper crank remover yet, just buy one I can assure you you'll use it more than you think. Also if you are going to a two piece crankset like the ixf Kev showed, I'd just go have the local bike shop remove your bottom bracket. Low end square taper bottom brackets can be really hard to remove, so if there was ever a time not to do it yourself, this would be one of those times.
Ok! I'm lost! I've never had a 1by, but I'm considering this set-up on my next build and what has thrown me off, is the 6:21 mark about 32 and 34 tooth being placed on the outer section of the spider and 30 on the inner????? The IXF crankset shown is for a triple and that "inner" mount is for the middle ring and where all rings should be mounted, regardless of tooth count. Because using the outer mount for any size ring would throw off the chainline, Right? I've seen the question by those that purchased cranks (going off of picture in ad) and were upset that it either looked like crap because of the machined portion showing or chainline was out of wack. All just my assumption, middle ring=middle mount, regardless of tooth count. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this, before I waste money on components, I'm not gonna be happy with.
Loved the instruction. Though the swap is tempting for me, it would mainly be to reduce complexity. The weight reduction might also be a good thing though. I wasn't planning it, but now I'm thinking about doing it. Thanks Kev. Love your videos.
That's exactly what I did this summer with my 2019 Rockhopper 1x9 conversion, even having used the crankset left over from my XR Pro. It works quite well so I'm a happy camper. PS-I really enjoy your content.
At last a review of that Action taper cranks. I think im gonna try that cranks because i want to change my bike to a 1× set up. Its been 4 years that i did not upgrade my bike to a 1×. Much love from the Philippines❤🇵🇭
loving your channel man. I've seen these cranks on eBay for a while and it looks as if the a batch of Shimano cranks got the iXF logo... Bringing some useful info to the biking community much appreciated. I wouldn't be surprised if these ARE Shimano parts just branded differently.
I have bought several ixf cranksets and they work great. I ride in dry and wet conditions. The bottom brackets does get water and grime in it, so it does need to be disassembled for cleaning now and then.
You wonder when most of the these bikes will become one by with a threaded bottom bracket ? It's cheaper for the manufacture and maybe better for walmart as its easier for gearing so you may see less returns for bad shifting . I actually have a 28 tooth suntour ring $ 16 and purchased a 11/46 cassette , $ 46 . My budget Shimano 10 speed derailleur M6000 SGS had no problem getting to that 46 tooth cog . My capability for climbing is comparable to a 12 speed one by . So my total upgrade was $62 compared to the sram 12 speed conversion for $ 275 which isnt bad price for what you get and you dont have to change your 10 speed cranks and rear wheel as its compatible with the 10 speed components . Well done being cost effective
Personally I think we've turned a corner with the new 3rd-party drivetrains emerging. We're now seeing stuff like FMFXTR 3x8s for $50, ZTTO 1x10 for $60. Shimano has been inflating their prices for minimal tech increases in the low-end products for years - the current big-box shifter and derailleur patterns were (at best) new in 2006 - and as a result Walmart and Schwinn et al no longer feel like the below-bottom-rung, flat face/tourney-T/Z is worth the brand recognition compared to being a decade ahead with wide-range 1x with narrow-wides & clutch deraileurs. When you're counting margins in cents on bikes built to hit $69, sure - it'll probably still be the cheapest possible parts. But the $150-250 bracket stands to gain huge amounts of utility.
@@johndef5075 Good deal . Thats what I have except I replaced the 11/42 with an 11/46 cassette . My 11/42 was worn out so I decided to get a bit more climbing ability . I was worried it may not work but the Shimano derailleur had no problem getting on that 46 tooth cog
Good video, I have the Hyper hardtail and have gotten to really like the 1x systems, so much I had thought of converting my old 18-speed Huffy to a 1x as well, lol. But you are right, so much less complexity and things to destroy or have fail out on a trail. Especially if you're bikepacking far from home. That it also saves some weight is a bonus.
I bought only a pos-neg chainring($5, with shorter screws) which suit for old 3-by square taper cranks, and just remove the old three chainrings, install the new one, remove the front derailleur, done.
The placement of the chainring varies depending on the crankset. I put a 32T chainring to make a 1x10 on my Suntour XCM crankset that came as a 2x10. That particular crankset doesnt allow any chainring to be mounted on the outer side of the spider. Its not a big box bike its a $1400 bike so yeah I get it. And I see that the IXF and Action square taper cranksets do in fact have placement for inner or outer chainrings. Very good info to know that will help alot of people out who want to convert to a 1x.
I got that exact same crankset and chainring just a different colour, it worked amazing but don’t use it now as I got a new bike, to buy cheaper things like that crankset is so worth it sometimes🤙🏼
A square tapered came on my $1,200.00 Specialized Fuse. There are actually pretty "high end" square tapered bottom brackets out there. I think, even some with ceramic bearings. The cheap loose ball ones come on the Walmart bikes, mostly, but the most high end square tapered is cheaper than some Euros or, threaded as they're called. I personally like a Euro with a three piece crank, but I've seen square tapereds handling Whistler and the new park in Hickory NC.... I forgot the name of it. Seth from Seth's bike hacks just did a vid there not long ago. Anyway, the point is, Square tapered BB's can be fine, just watch how "cheap" your crank arms are if you really want to ride.
Thanks to you’re video about the 2020 shwwin boundry, found the only one they had at my Walmart by chance and am getting it by the end of the month. I’ve been looking for a good bike for a while now so thanks to you I will finally have it. Thank you for the very informative videos and keep doing well. Much love From Puerto Rico
Thank you Kev. Always learning. I don't have a mnt bike anymore but I will again someday. I got Pacific to say they will refund me the money I spent on two boundarys. Just shipped them this morning. Thanks teacher.
Considering changing my crankset to a 1× drivetrain I have a riveted 2× at the moment and these Action cranks look like great value with a good quality narrow wide chainring included. Only the crank removal tool and chain breaker are needed for the swap. The ability to have the chainring on either side of the crank arm can be a bonus for adjusting chain alignment but normally not needed. The benefits of swapping to a single narrow wide from two or three chainrings are obvious such as better reliability less weight and excellent chain retention. The Action cranks and the chainring are selling for an excellent price on ebay of around thirty dollars. The CLAW cranks are also great value at around thirty dollars on eBay if a crankset to suit a Hollowtech II bottom bracket is needed. 😎🇦🇺👍
I say if you're gonna go this far you might as well fully commit. The tools for removing square taper bottom brackets, installing external bearing bottom brackets, and removing freewheels are all pretty cheap. The freewheel tool also usually works with cassettes. Then you just need a chain whip and maybe a stand. Perhaps also a torque wrench and some cone wrenches. After you have all of that it's pretty much necessary you get a truing stand and then follow it up with a yard full of bikes in various states of assembly. I'd say you're pretty much good to go at that point
You don't have to take the front derailleur off if you don't want to. You can use the adjustment screws to center the derailleur plates so the chain doesn't rub on them. This will also prevent chain derailments. Of course a lot of people like 1 by setup because of the weight savings and cleaner look and leaving the derailleur on kinda defeats those two points.
Sunrace also makes square tapered 1x cranckset. Not easy to find though. I got one from Great Britain. Worth mention that I had to buy a bottom bracket with a longer spindle, the chainring was touching the frame... It was still a cheap option.
There is a satisfying feeling when the sq tapered releases. I had to order a suntour crank set for my 9 year old's bike to go 1x I'll check out your link because I have to go 1x on my daughter's bike.
Kevcentral am From mozambique and I wish i could have any of the Bikes you have upgraded great work. Its a same we dont have so many mountain bike trails here.
Great video! I have the same Action crank arms that I combined with a Deckas 36T chainring and BBB pedals. Great bit of kit for budget 1x conversions 👍
All of these chain drive transmissions are soon to be dinosaurs. I have a Priority Turi that uses a Gates belt driving an Enviolo NuVinci CVT rear hub that has a 300% "gear" ratio, which is a misnomer of sorts since there are no conventional gears but one infinitely adjustable ratio that insures I'm always at the best pedal-rollout ratio for the road. Literally no maintenance, I don't have to lubricate a chain, let alone stress over which lubricant is best. Nor do I have a derrallieur mechanism to adjust. With all that out of the way I no longer worry about getting grease on my pants or dirtying up my friends trunk with grease when he offers to get me home if I have a flat. I'm so done with chains and derallieurs. What a relief!
Still up for sale on Amazon, though I think Kev made the 30 tooth rigs sell out. Lowest it goes is 32 tooth. Should make for better hill climbing than the 44 I have.
Thank you a lot I was actually looking for a square taper simple design which you finally found I immediately bought one and it's for a three by trek Marlin 5 that will be changed into a one buy trek Marlin 5 Even knowing this video is a day later I'm glad I still get the chance to see what you have from time to time
Very nice low cost option to convert to a 1x setup. One point worth mentioning is to be sure to measure the crank arm length and replace with the same length. Ive seen good project intentions go sideways because the wrong length replacement part was used.
Great "how to" video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. You did a good job walking through and explaining the process step by step. You should consider doing more "how to" videos.
You should use a torque wrench. The ”Guten tighten” method will often deform the alloy crank to spindle interface. This leads to the chainring being too close to the BB and when the crank is removed and reinstalled it will flop around and deform and never be able to hold. Love your channel.
I put one of those on my Mongoose XR Pro. So far so good. I was looking at the ixf crank and BB but decided to try this one first and not have to buy the external BB tool.
i recently ordered those same action crank arms. i saw the square taper spec for them at 16.9 mm. my current BB shaft is square taper and was concerned about the dimensions for mine are around 14.6 mm. thanks to your tutorial i will not need a new BB that is compatible with this set up. Thanks !!
Looks pretty straightforward. I want to upgrade my Philodo AWD Ebike. I will probably keep the 3x, but I assume the process is the same. Thanks for the video😀
Thank you very much. I feel like this takes a $148 walmart bike and makes it much more sophisticated. I would also like to see you remove any twist shifters and put on new grips and the click type of shifters. Thanks
My mountain bike is 1X8 internal. I got a square taper road compact double and then I got singlespeed chaining bolts and I have a 34 tooth steel chainring.
Some of the front derailleurs also have a screw where yours had a pin Wich makes it even easier to take the chain out if you don't have a chain breaker
Lots of people are asking about weight difference between the two cranksets:
Factory 3x = 2lbs 1oz
Action 1x = 1lb 6oz
kilos? hehe
@@HiagoSN 950g vs 725g roughly?
@Brisdad53 THIS. I'm all for 1Xs, but when you keep the old low-range cassette, going 1X is really a downgrade, even if you are shedding weight. (And let's be honest, if someone has a Walmart/cheap bike, they don't care that much about what their bike weighs.)
@@octogintillion Depends what you're starting with. I have a 13-40 8-speed on the rear so converting to a single from a double or triple crank set with anything between 30 and 34 teeth works well for a mountain bike.
@@Matt-mh5ud Yeah with that range it's fine, but a lot of the bike shop bikes I see online have roughly 12-34 tooth cassettes.
I like converting all my bikes to 1x drive trains cause I do all my own work and I suck at adjusting front derailleurs, but I tell people it's to save weight...
Adjusting Front derailleurs is something I just can’t get right. Too impatient I guess.
Same here, IME is the most finicky component of the bike, never is spot on
really? ive adjusted a couple front derailleurs, i didnt find it all that difficult.
maybe i just didnt do it right...
@@johhnylemon4003 theory is easy, then its not as easy and exact
@@johhnylemon4003 was it 2x or 3x? I've only ever tried on 3x drivetrains myself, maybe 2x's are easier.
I’ve been running this exact setup for about a year now. It’s amazing. If you’re thinking of purchasing just do it.
Any update on how it lasted? About to get it for my bike. I heard the square taper strips out easy tho
Starting my conversation today! Tool showed up so I can pop my old cranks off. Yet again, another win from KevCentral having this video up! Super excited. Thanks for always helping us when we own big box bikes! Keep it up Kev. 💙🐨💙
I have installed two sets of these with success. One was on a buddies bike who is a casual neighborhood rider. The other was on my daughters bike. I've had no issues with them and will absolutely order again.
Tip: Don't break your derailleur to get your chain freed from it. Spend $10 and get a chain breaker tool. Many bike multitools have them too. You will use the chain breaker tool often enough to justify the price.
Chain breaker is handy, but I try to give multiple options.
I suppose you could also use bolt or sheet metal cutters. I personally like to try to salvage old parts. You never know when your junk might be just what the next guy needs.
I had a front derailleur in the past that had a rivet through it and at the time didn't have a chain break so I drilled out the rivet and when I was done with it I put a bolt and nut on it and put it on another bike.
Highly recommend as the added benefit of shortening the chain that no longer has to go around a 42t gear can really help stop the chain drops.
I found your channel, and I love your no-nonsense take on everything. I just about fell out of my chair laughing when you called it a "kick bike"! Keep the videos coming!
Interesting option. I'm glad to have gone the ixf route and be done with square taper, though.
Hows the ixf holding up today? I'm looking to convert my 3x to 1x as well and I'm thinking if the ixf is durable without quality issues? Was looking to remove the square taper BB and go hollowtech route. Am looking to replace the tourney 3x to advent x 1x setup with the ixf. What do you say? :)
Gave you a thumbs up. You shepherd the weak through the valley of darkness, you truly are your brother's keeper and the finder of lost children (to paraphrase Jules) 👏
Kev, Thanks for this video! I am upgrading and restoring my vintage 1989 Trek 830. This has been the most useful yet (and I've seen many) video on how to convert a low end bike shop bike to different gearing. I'm going to go through your library and see more of your work. All my riding here in Florida is flat, sometimes a modest hill. I am preparing to bike the Coast to Coast Trail which goes from the Atlantic to the Gulf of Mexico east to west. Your videos give me the confidence to attempt this upgrade. Thanks again.
Thanks for the fun idea, inspiration and how-to, Kev! I completed a 1x8 conversion on my hybrid using the Ganopper square taper crank and a 32T chain ring (a no-decal version of the Actions you used). I've taken two 30 mile test rides including a few hills and I really enjoyed the simplified no-brainer gearing. Seems perfect for a hybrid. The original 8mm x 22mm length crank arm bolts seemed too long for a proper seal with the new apparently slimmer crank arms so I installed new 8mm x 15mm long bolts which fit and sealed perfectly. I removed the front derailleur and shift cable, but kept the Shimano brake/shifter which works perfectly. Terrific!!
The number of teeth doesn’t change where you mount the chainring. You mount it on the inside where the 2nd ring on the 3x would be to maintain optimal chain line.
Not true. The Snail chainrings (and many others) have lip designs that mount on the inside of iXF and similar cranks. Look at an iXF on Amazon. You’ll see in the pictures they show to mount 30t on the inside, larger on the outside.
While it is considered bad practice to cross chain, you don't shift your front to just keep optimal chain line. You shift to get the gear ratio needed. When you shift the front, you typically shift the rear along with it to maintain a steady cadence. Go to large in the front, and you shift to a larger in the rear for example. To do what I think you are saying would have you constantly shifting with big changes in cadence
IMO you should be right. Makes no sense to change the chain line to a less optimal position but that is, apparently, what they have done with larger tooth chain rings.
@@KevCentral Any idea why? It would seem a less optimal chain line regardless of tooth count.
Interesting discussion. I just upgrade my nishiki colorado w/+ tires. I mounted the 32T chain ring in the inside. A few other sources i found it's recommended to add 1 spacer on the drive side of BB on the ixf. And if i had mounted the chainring on the outside, i will not be able to shift to the largest rear sprocket because of the extreme angle.
Fist and foremost your videos pointed me into the “budget mtb scene” and I’m appreciative for all the great info that you’ve posted!! My question is I received an oval 32t chainring (tho I ordered a round 34t) with a set of ixf cranks. As far as mounting this to the cranks- are they still mounted on the outside of the crank arm posts as you stated? Just wondering since the oval chainring is a “30” on its thinner side. I’m gonna give the oval a chance before going back to round. Thank you again for all you do!
A torque wrench comes in handy so you dont overtighten and mushroom your square taper crank. Dont use a lot of grease. Just the lightest film. Some Shimano square taper bottom brackets have a stop to prevent overtightening on drive side. Still have to be careful on other side. Once you overtighten its not fixable.
I never worried about that cause the crank fixing bolt when it it'svery tight it won't come lose
The chief benefit of big-box bikes starting to use 1x is that new riders have less confusion learning to shift. 3x7 may give you a big number to put on a sales tag and impress laypeople, but it's just about the worst experience possible. I think everyone I've ever introduced a 3x7 to has come back in a couple weeks telling me they didn't understand how it was supposed to work and just left it in the gear that made the least noise.
Kev, thank for this discovery! I finally have a 1x solution that feeds my addiction for anodized purple. Always excellent content on here
Just got this crankset for my 1996 Gary Fisher Big Sur that I was given. Trying to outfit it to be a good trail bike! Shoutout to Florence, really miss living there
I have been trying to do this for my 10 yrs old son Schwinn 24" aluminum hard tail. But I didn't know wat to buy and wat to do. Thanks to your video. I will rewatch it hundred times to make sure I know how
I recently upgraded my kid’s bikes with this 1x setup. One was a 24” Nishiki Pueblo 3x7 and the other a 20” 40T 1x 7. They noticed the difference and able to make it up the inclines at our local trail with ease.
I have a pueblo mens 26 what brand did u use
@@toddfrost3019
I used the Action crank with the Snail chainring.
I literally just did this to my son's bike. We bought him a used 2015 Trek Marlin 6 for $300. I went with the Marlin 6 because it had a freehub on the back and we could upgrade the cassette. It came with a 3x8 on it originally. I got a used sram x-9 10 speed group set for $60. I sold the cranks and front derailleur/shifter it came with for $40. New 10 speed chain was $30. It took me a while to find these exact same cranks on eBay but they were the only ones I found that would work with a square tapered bottom bracket. I opted to go with an oval 32t chainring. So, for less than $100, he was upgraded from a 3x8 to a 1x10. The only thing I worry about is the chain line but everything is working great so far.
Thanks for making this video, because that's the exact new set I'm buying. I'm getting the red 32 teeth, oval version and I can't wait. I never ever move out of the first chain ring round here, it's always up hill and on the downhills I just like to rest and free wheel, because I go bike packing and its not about speed for me it's about big miles with less calories.
I’m watching this a second time....will probably come back several more times. Well done!
Best freaking video I have seen in literally months. Thank you so much for such a simple yet incredible video. I needed this one. I really can’t thank you enough.
I’ve been searching for an affordable chainring for a while now and now I know exactly what to get. Definitely a helpful video
Kev, I love your videos and have been a fan for years. I did want to mention as others have about chainring location. This comes from 12 years of being a professional mechanic with multiple certifications within the cycling industry. A 1x chainring should be mounted on the inside of the crankset for proper chain line. Small adjustments, if needed, should be done with spacers on the bottom bracket shell or a longer BB Spindle, depending on what BB standard you are using.
Once again, I love your channel and your projects. I’ve done this for years for fun with extra throw away parts from the shop. I built up a GMC Denali road bike with a full Campagnolo Centaur drivetrain with Campy Vento wheels. I also built up a Mongoose Deception with Shimano SLX and Rockshox Reba Fork. One of the last I did was a Mongoose XR Pro, but the crazy steep head tube and very long chainstays just never rode well.
It's totally worth it to invest in the tools and knowledge to replace your factory square taper on a big box bike. When I converted my big box fat bike from square taper 3x to a 1x Hollowtech II bottom bracket the weight difference was huge. It went from 2.6kg for the bottom bracket and cranks to 1.3kg! Cheap steel square taper BBs are HEAVY.
Just worked on a friends Mongoose dept. store bike. Oh my God that thing is HEAVY. Almost got a hernia bringing it up from the basement. I swear the frame tubes are solid😂
Great upgrade! I would add with the chain ring, it can go on either side of the crank but depending on the bike you want it as centered as possible between the highest and lowest gears to avoid more binding and premature drive train wear.
I went for IXF crank set for my wife's bike. And so far its serving her well.
I used to have the same crankset (FMFXTR) but with Deckas 34T chainring. Love the simplicity of the 1x.
Thanks I just got a old giant bike for my birthday and I use your videos to find good cheap parts since I'm 13 and don't get that much money
One advantage of square taper BB is that you can use a different axel length to obtain the correct chain line. For example, i went from a 127mm axel to a 107mm, which is 2 whole centimeters of a jump. You can't put 8 plastic spacers in between external cup BB and the BB shell...
Did not know the 30T goes on the back and 32 and above go on the front...but 32 and 34 in the back too...GOOD work Kev!
I put this on my gf's bike over a year ago. Works awesome for someone who isn't "seriously" into biking.
I did a 1x 10 speed conversion (11-36T cassette w/30T CR) with a Shimano clutched derailleur for about $50CAD after I sold all the parts that came on the bike.
Thanks for the video! I took the plunge and made the conversion. And I am anything but a bike mechanic. Took maybe an hour and zero problems. I will say that I had to go with a larger chainring (34T) for more speed and power as I ride in the city a lot. Anyway thanks. Wouldn't have had the courage without your video and recommendations.
Kev thanks for this vid, I had to re-visit it, your gonna crack up- I found a "Walmart" Roadmaster in the dumpster putting some upgrades changing it to 1 x7 now also put wider bars and better shifters .
Thats why everyone should have a helper bar in their tool kit, The wonder to torque never stops
Ordered the set and my wife is excited to have the 7 Speed she wanted.
Thank You Kev!!
Wow, i was just looking for some cheap taper crankset like...15 mins ago, needed a taper set for a free bike i got.. Thanks for the link! Just bought a set. I used ixf as well, it a nice kit, but need some trial and error with the spacers on my plus size tires.
Thank you for this video. I literally just bought these crank arms and exact tool you are using from Amazon just the other day. Still waiting on the crank arms but now I've seen your video im really excited and more confident they will be great.
That new setup looks Sooo much better! 👌
Did this to a GT Aggressor. The crankset was "Bucklos" from Amazon, chainring was 32 tooth. The chain line was so far to the outside there was no chance making it right. Tried putting the ring inside and it only helped a little. Was so mad I ground the rivets/chainrings off the original crankset. Works fine with the remaining middle ring.
Very informative video and I will be using the information to resurrect my wife's old mountain bike. Thank you for your time and effort.
You can use pretty much any mtb crankset to get 1x by only putting a ring of the proper BCD at the the middle spot, and even the IXF and Action cranksets are just 3x in hiding. It is why they have that milled part on the outside and the threaded posts on the inside.
Love this guy. He buys all the cheap stuff I'm afraid to.
For those going 1x remember to buy a narrow wide chainring and if you don't have a square taper crank remover yet, just buy one I can assure you you'll use it more than you think. Also if you are going to a two piece crankset like the ixf Kev showed, I'd just go have the local bike shop remove your bottom bracket. Low end square taper bottom brackets can be really hard to remove, so if there was ever a time not to do it yourself, this would be one of those times.
Ok! I'm lost! I've never had a 1by, but I'm considering this set-up on my next build and what has thrown me off, is the 6:21 mark about 32 and 34 tooth being placed on the outer section of the spider and 30 on the inner????? The IXF crankset shown is for a triple and that "inner" mount is for the middle ring and where all rings should be mounted, regardless of tooth count. Because using the outer mount for any size ring would throw off the chainline, Right? I've seen the question by those that purchased cranks (going off of picture in ad) and were upset that it either looked like crap because of the machined portion showing or chainline was out of wack. All just my assumption, middle ring=middle mount, regardless of tooth count. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this, before I waste money on components, I'm not gonna be happy with.
Loved the instruction. Though the swap is tempting for me, it would mainly be to reduce complexity. The weight reduction might also be a good thing though. I wasn't planning it, but now I'm thinking about doing it. Thanks Kev. Love your videos.
Be careful, unless you have some big cogs in back, you going to hurt on climbs
That's exactly what I did this summer with my 2019 Rockhopper 1x9 conversion, even having used the crankset left over from my XR Pro. It works quite well so I'm a happy camper. PS-I really enjoy your content.
I have a 2016 Rockhopper with a 3 by, I’m thinking about doing the same.
At last a review of that Action taper cranks. I think im gonna try that cranks because i want to change my bike to a 1× set up. Its been 4 years that i did not upgrade my bike to a 1×. Much love from the Philippines❤🇵🇭
absolutely love the background ambient music
loving your channel man. I've seen these cranks on eBay for a while and it looks as if the a batch of Shimano cranks got the iXF logo... Bringing some useful info to the biking community much appreciated. I wouldn't be surprised if these ARE Shimano parts just branded differently.
Always enjoy learning from your videos. Thanks.
I have bought several ixf cranksets and they work great. I ride in dry and wet conditions. The bottom brackets does get water and grime in it, so it does need to be disassembled for cleaning now and then.
You wonder when most of the these bikes will become one by with a threaded bottom bracket ? It's cheaper for the manufacture and maybe better for walmart as its easier for gearing so you may see less returns for bad shifting . I actually have a 28 tooth suntour ring $ 16 and purchased a 11/46 cassette , $ 46 . My budget Shimano 10 speed derailleur M6000 SGS had no problem getting to that 46 tooth cog . My capability for climbing is comparable to a 12 speed one by . So my total upgrade was $62 compared to the sram 12 speed conversion for $ 275 which isnt bad price for what you get and you dont have to change your 10 speed cranks and rear wheel as its compatible with the 10 speed components . Well done being cost effective
Personally I think we've turned a corner with the new 3rd-party drivetrains emerging. We're now seeing stuff like FMFXTR 3x8s for $50, ZTTO 1x10 for $60. Shimano has been inflating their prices for minimal tech increases in the low-end products for years - the current big-box shifter and derailleur patterns were (at best) new in 2006 - and as a result Walmart and Schwinn et al no longer feel like the below-bottom-rung, flat face/tourney-T/Z is worth the brand recognition compared to being a decade ahead with wide-range 1x with narrow-wides & clutch deraileurs. When you're counting margins in cents on bikes built to hit $69, sure - it'll probably still be the cheapest possible parts. But the $150-250 bracket stands to gain huge amounts of utility.
Just bought a Deore 10 speed drivetrain for $120 on ebay. All Shimano parts. 11-42 cassette, chain, shifter and clutch derailleur.
@@johndef5075 Good deal . Thats what I have except I replaced the 11/42 with an 11/46 cassette . My 11/42 was worn out so I decided to get a bit more climbing ability . I was worried it may not work but the Shimano derailleur had no problem getting on that 46 tooth cog
Good video, I have the Hyper hardtail and have gotten to really like the 1x systems, so much I had thought of converting my old 18-speed Huffy to a 1x as well, lol. But you are right, so much less complexity and things to destroy or have fail out on a trail. Especially if you're bikepacking far from home. That it also saves some weight is a bonus.
I have that crank on my hard tail. More than a year and it's been great.
Mines a Dekkas 34T Oval narrow wide chainring. 1x8 with a 11 to 34 cassette.
@@husky0877 is 8 speed chain same as a 7 speed chain ?
@@sdqsdq6274 6, 7 and 8 speed chain is interchangeable
I bought only a pos-neg chainring($5, with shorter screws) which suit for old 3-by square taper cranks, and just remove the old three chainrings, install the new one, remove the front derailleur, done.
The placement of the chainring varies depending on the crankset. I put a 32T chainring to make a 1x10 on my Suntour XCM crankset that came as a 2x10. That particular crankset doesnt allow any chainring to be mounted on the outer side of the spider. Its not a big box bike its a $1400 bike so yeah I get it. And I see that the IXF and Action square taper cranksets do in fact have placement for inner or outer chainrings. Very good info to know that will help alot of people out who want to convert to a 1x.
I got that exact same crankset and chainring just a different colour, it worked amazing but don’t use it now as I got a new bike, to buy cheaper things like that crankset is so worth it sometimes🤙🏼
A square tapered came on my $1,200.00 Specialized Fuse. There are actually pretty "high end" square tapered bottom brackets out there. I think, even some with ceramic bearings. The cheap loose ball ones come on the Walmart bikes, mostly, but the most high end square tapered is cheaper than some Euros or, threaded as they're called. I personally like a Euro with a three piece crank, but I've seen square tapereds handling Whistler and the new park in Hickory NC.... I forgot the name of it. Seth from Seth's bike hacks just did a vid there not long ago. Anyway, the point is, Square tapered BB's can be fine, just watch how "cheap" your crank arms are if you really want to ride.
Thanks to you’re video about the 2020 shwwin boundry, found the only one they had at my Walmart by chance and am getting it by the end of the month. I’ve been looking for a good bike for a while now so thanks to you I will finally have it. Thank you for the very informative videos and keep doing well. Much love
From Puerto Rico
Thank you Kev. Always learning. I don't have a mnt bike anymore but I will again someday. I got Pacific to say they will refund me the money I spent on two boundarys. Just shipped them this morning. Thanks teacher.
Considering changing my crankset to a 1× drivetrain I have a riveted 2× at the moment and these Action cranks look like great value with a good quality narrow wide chainring included. Only the crank removal tool and chain breaker are needed for the swap.
The ability to have the chainring on either side of the crank arm can be a bonus for adjusting chain alignment but normally not needed.
The benefits of swapping to a single narrow wide from two or three chainrings are obvious such as better reliability less weight and excellent chain retention.
The Action cranks and the chainring are selling for an excellent price on ebay of around thirty dollars.
The CLAW cranks are also great value at around thirty dollars on eBay if a crankset to suit a Hollowtech II bottom bracket is needed.
😎🇦🇺👍
Stay safe during the hurricane. Sending prayers your way.
This is surprisingly simple. I have an old Cannondale that has a SLX 3x crank set and I've been wanting to get rid of it for a simpler 1x option.
This was helpful! I figured out what I need to do, to make the switch! Thanks!!
I say if you're gonna go this far you might as well fully commit. The tools for removing square taper bottom brackets, installing external bearing bottom brackets, and removing freewheels are all pretty cheap. The freewheel tool also usually works with cassettes. Then you just need a chain whip and maybe a stand. Perhaps also a torque wrench and some cone wrenches. After you have all of that it's pretty much necessary you get a truing stand and then follow it up with a yard full of bikes in various states of assembly. I'd say you're pretty much good to go at that point
Financial realities might not allow that, but it’s always good to get needed bike tools when possible.
I have the tools and I've done these steps with square taper cranks many times but I still stuck around to watch.
Thanks kev. Life happens and I haven't had the time to finish my hyper hydroform. This is where I'm at on my build
You don't have to take the front derailleur off if you don't want to. You can use the adjustment screws to center the derailleur plates so the chain doesn't rub on them. This will also prevent chain derailments. Of course a lot of people like 1 by setup because of the weight savings and cleaner look and leaving the derailleur on kinda defeats those two points.
casey b I just did this and for now I’m going to leave the derailleur on in case I change my mind later.
@@stevedrake3725 :) sounds good.
Sunrace also makes square tapered 1x cranckset. Not easy to find though. I got one from Great Britain. Worth mention that I had to buy a bottom bracket with a longer spindle, the chainring was touching the frame... It was still a cheap option.
i hope the day will come when the square type bb and the 3x cranks will be in the realm of surpassed forgoten nightmares
it wont , people just prefer over priced branded , unless shimano/sram starts making low cost ones
@@sdqsdq6274 non-series shimano parts are quite cheap
Thank you! I just did my own bike thanks to your very instructive video.
Thanks it was very helpful plan on using this setup on my wife's aluminium comp build.
Wow really I just took mine apart and bought a narrow wide chain ring of Amazon and its worked perfect for years
There is a satisfying feeling when the sq tapered releases. I had to order a suntour crank set for my 9 year old's bike to go 1x I'll check out your link because I have to go 1x on my daughter's bike.
Great video. Plus I like how it's spurred the ongoing discussion about chain lines, something I've often wondered about.
Kevcentral am From mozambique and I wish i could have any of the Bikes you have upgraded great work. Its a same we dont have so many mountain bike trails here.
Great video! I have the same Action crank arms that I combined with a Deckas 36T chainring and BBB pedals. Great bit of kit for budget 1x conversions 👍
Thanks kev, i'm going to do this. I have a 3 x and I never leave the middle ring. Might as well save a little weight.
All of these chain drive transmissions are soon to be dinosaurs.
I have a Priority Turi that uses a Gates belt driving an Enviolo NuVinci CVT rear hub that has a 300% "gear" ratio, which is a misnomer of sorts since there are no conventional gears but one infinitely adjustable ratio that insures I'm always at the best pedal-rollout ratio for the road.
Literally no maintenance, I don't have to lubricate a chain, let alone stress over which lubricant is best. Nor do I have a derrallieur mechanism to adjust. With all that out of the way I no longer worry about getting grease on my pants or dirtying up my friends trunk with grease when he offers to get me home if I have a flat.
I'm so done with chains and derallieurs. What a relief!
I was just about to pull the trigger on this. Now the parts are gonna be out for months.
I literally just ordered this exact unit a couple days ago for my gym commuter, how did Kev know??
Don't worry. Amazon still has them in stock and you find plenty on eBay for the same price.
Still up for sale on Amazon, though I think Kev made the 30 tooth rigs sell out. Lowest it goes is 32 tooth.
Should make for better hill climbing than the 44 I have.
@@singletona082 I was running a single speed front chainring and it was awful.
Thank you a lot I was actually looking for a square taper simple design which you finally found I immediately bought one and it's for a three by trek Marlin 5 that will be changed into a one buy trek Marlin 5
Even knowing this video is a day later I'm glad I still get the chance to see what you have from time to time
Very nice low cost option to convert to a 1x setup. One point worth mentioning is to be sure to measure the crank arm length and replace with the same length. Ive seen good project intentions go sideways because the wrong length replacement part was used.
I actually had that in, but edited it out since all big box bikes appear to use the same 170mm crank arm
Great "how to" video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. You did a good job walking through and explaining the process step by step. You should consider doing more "how to" videos.
You should use a torque wrench. The ”Guten tighten” method will often deform the alloy crank to spindle interface. This leads to the chainring being too close to the BB and when the crank is removed and reinstalled it will flop around and deform and never be able to hold. Love your channel.
It depends on the spindle length and the crankset. Certain cranksets will accept a 113mm spindle and other cranksets won't
Just the video I was looking for. BTW IXF also offer square taper cranks - ordering one from eBay right now.
That's a great option to easily go 1X, nice find!
Nice video I love watching your channel!!, you should get the Schwinn Protocol 2.7 Mountain bike.
I put one of those on my Mongoose XR Pro. So far so good. I was looking at the ixf crank and BB but decided to try this one first and not have to buy the external BB tool.
Hi Kev, that was a very good informative video. Very simple to understand. Those tools are excellent as well.
i recently ordered those same action crank arms. i saw the square taper spec for them at 16.9 mm. my current BB shaft is square taper and was concerned about the dimensions for mine are around 14.6 mm. thanks to your tutorial i will not need a new BB that is compatible with this set up. Thanks !!
Thanks , that was great , i've just bought the same , looking forward to getting on the bike now i know how .
great video. I'm loving these 1x products, used two of them myself now.
Looks pretty straightforward. I want to upgrade my Philodo AWD Ebike. I will probably keep the 3x, but I assume the process is the same. Thanks for the video😀
Thank you very much. I feel like this takes a $148 walmart bike and makes it much more sophisticated. I would also like to see you remove any twist shifters and put on new grips and the click type of shifters. Thanks
Thanks Kev, always super helpful videos
My mountain bike is 1X8 internal. I got a square taper road compact double and then I got singlespeed chaining bolts and I have a 34 tooth steel chainring.
This was a great video this is the #1 thing I want to do to my santis.
Some of the front derailleurs also have a screw where yours had a pin Wich makes it even easier to take the chain out if you don't have a chain breaker