I use Spektrum's Power Safe dual battery input receiver such as the AR12310T and the Tech-Aero IBEC ignition battery eliminator which provides double RF filtering for the receiver. I have had very good service with this setup. I know the dual battery redundancy works since one of my LiFe lost a cell and the receiver didn't draw down the other battery to boost the dying battery. Also the IBEC is connected to a spare channel of the receiver so that engine cutoff is done by a transmitter switch assigned to that channel. Used it once when I lost the throttle servo arm to cut the engine on final rather than flying till the fuel tank drained (:-)). Oh and BTW, this system provided true redundancy since the ignition and receiver/servos are feed by the dual battery setup, rather than a separate battery for the ignition and one for the receiver. If one battery is this system fails, the plane comes down, one way or the other (;-(((((.
The ones used on this model came with the kit from Aeroworks. But, they have since gone out of business. Lots of places have standoffs but you might check with the manufacturer of your plane, they might have specific spacers for the plane.
Thanks for the video. Amazing setup. I have a question about dual batteries. I am flying 20cc and I was reading about some setups with dual batteries going to the receiver directly. What is your opinion on that? It would be two Nimh (6v - 1200) going directly to Futaba R7008SB receiver. Would that make the batteries redundant and the flight safer? Thanks
+Mariano Agustín Bosaz I am not familiar with the Futaba receiver. If it is designed to provide dual battery protection I wold go with it. The important thing is that the receiver separate the batteries so that if one goes down it doesn't take the other with it. You should be able to find that out in the documentation with the receiver.
Mariano Agustín Bosaz dual battery is safe, NiMH is NOT safe. NiMH on giant scale is a way to kill your plane. You need to watch the video by Bruce on RCModel review on RUclips
The switches appear to have a charge port but with Lipos you must have to unplug them to check voltage and charge along with accessing the balance plug?
@@flyingrcdotnet I was wondering. I am using LIFE batteries so I can get the voltage through the old style charge jack, but if I convert to the Smartfly that won't be available anymore for a quick check before each flight. OR is it?
You need to be more specific. There are lot s of "this" in the video and story. I have no idea if any of the manufacturers ship to the UK, that is a question for them.
+Ashley If the servo does not have enough torque to overcome the aerodynamic pressure on the control surface the air can stop it before it reaches an end point. That is a stall and can kill the servo eventually but ups the current draw a bunch whenever it happens. Install a servo with enough torque for the job and it moves to it's normal end point without the jump in current draw. Sometimes the servos can "run out" of current if the battery being used does not have enough power to keep up with the demand.
I use a balance board with extended leads for the battery plugs and balance plugs. It's really very simple but works great. ruclips.net/video/DKbNzGo-y6w/видео.html
Do you ever take the batteries out of the plane to do a balance charge on them? I just set up my first large scale plane and I've never had to handle an ignition battery before. Since it's in the cowl it will be hard to reach for a balanced charge, so those power panels you have on your plane seemed the best to do just a regular charge.
I added cords and plugs so I can balance charge the packs in the plane. I need to do a story on that but it won't be for a while as I am going in for major surgery this coming Tuesday to remove a cancer tumor and some other stuff. I will get on it eventually!
Nope. Lots of people were sad to see them close up. They got stuck in the middle of a dock strike that would not let product through to them and like many businesses, they just could not take that kind of shut down.
I think that was an 1100mAh lipo but I did later replace it with an iginition kill that took power off the receiver so I could get rid of the ignition battery. Look on my site for the Tech Aero Ultra IBEC unit that I use on most of my planes.
I suppose anything can be converted to electric, if you are talking about the plane? If you are talking about the plane, it is no longer available as AeroWorks went out of business/
i sew your videos i have a smaller plane a yak 54 i just build i have spent many hours on the web looking for a good gyro kit for my plane(s) and my funtana 90 if you could help any way i would really appriciate it it sounds and look like you know exactly what you doing. PLEASE HELP
absolutely love your videos , you are old school. I find a lot of videos very helpful. Happy flying cheers
Thank you. I picked up many little tips. There were a few things i was considering doing, but I wasn't sure. Now I am.
I use Spektrum's Power Safe dual battery input receiver such as the AR12310T and the Tech-Aero IBEC ignition battery eliminator which provides double RF filtering for the receiver. I have had very good service with this setup. I know the dual battery redundancy works since one of my LiFe lost a cell and the receiver didn't draw down the other battery to boost the dying battery.
Also the IBEC is connected to a spare channel of the receiver so that engine cutoff is done by a transmitter switch assigned to that channel. Used it once when I lost the throttle servo arm to cut the engine on final rather than flying till the fuel tank drained (:-)). Oh and BTW, this system provided true redundancy since the ignition and receiver/servos are feed by the dual battery setup, rather than a separate battery for the ignition and one for the receiver. If one battery is this system fails, the plane comes down, one way or the other (;-(((((.
Always enjoy your work! keep it up
great video , i learned alot from you.
Some will say not to let the tank rest againstthe wing spar tube though
There is 1/2" of foam rubber between the tank and spar. I always have 1/2" foam between the tank and whatever it contacts on any side.
Rite on
found hot glue works MUCH better then tape at keeping servo leads in the RX
what are those fail safe switches? what brand are they where did you get them? Great videos I enjoy a lot!!!
+Andrew Smith Those are called "Access panels" and come from smart-fly.com.
ok thanks your videos are very good lots of info on how to set up safely
thintz12 this is the question I was about to ask, so thanks for this. Those panels look great.
i REALLY APPRECIATE THE INFO I ORDERED THE EAGLE TREE AND THE EAGLE A3 SUPER ARE THOSE GOOD ENOUGH?
thank you lot's
where do you get the spacers for the standoffs
The ones used on this model came with the kit from Aeroworks. But, they have since gone out of business. Lots of places have standoffs but you might check with the manufacturer of your plane, they might have specific spacers for the plane.
Who’s switch system do you use?
I believe those switches were from Smart Fly.
thintz 12 where did you get the carbon fiber spinner?
That came from Aeroworks but sadly they are gone now. My favorite plane maker!
Thanks for the video. Amazing setup. I have a question about dual batteries. I am flying 20cc and I was reading about some setups with dual batteries going to the receiver directly. What is your opinion on that? It would be two Nimh (6v - 1200) going directly to Futaba R7008SB receiver. Would that make the batteries redundant and the flight safer? Thanks
+Mariano Agustín Bosaz I am not familiar with the Futaba receiver. If it is designed to provide dual battery protection I wold go with it. The important thing is that the receiver separate the batteries so that if one goes down it doesn't take the other with it. You should be able to find that out in the documentation with the receiver.
+thintz12 Thank you for your prompt reply, love your videos!
Mariano Agustín Bosaz dual battery is safe, NiMH is NOT safe. NiMH on giant scale is a way to kill your plane. You need to watch the video by Bruce on RCModel review on RUclips
The switches appear to have a charge port but with Lipos you must have to unplug them to check voltage and charge along with accessing the balance plug?
I always unplugged my LiPos so I could hook them up to a charge cable I made up with the main and balance wires bundled.
@@flyingrcdotnet I was wondering. I am using LIFE batteries so I can get the voltage through the old style charge jack, but if I convert to the Smartfly that won't be available anymore for a quick check before each flight. OR is it?
Where did you get this and do they ship to the UK?
Cheers,
A
You need to be more specific. There are lot s of "this" in the video and story. I have no idea if any of the manufacturers ship to the UK, that is a question for them.
talking about th servo, what do you mean "stall" don't it have end points? i do not understand
+Ashley If the servo does not have enough torque to overcome the aerodynamic pressure on the control surface the air can stop it before it reaches an end point. That is a stall and can kill the servo eventually but ups the current draw a bunch whenever it happens. Install a servo with enough torque for the job and it moves to it's normal end point without the jump in current draw. Sometimes the servos can "run out" of current if the battery being used does not have enough power to keep up with the demand.
nice video im fixing to pick one of these up..has a rcgf 55cc on it.. u ever mess with the rcgf?
I have not had a RCGF engine. Who is selling them?
seen valleyviewrc have them an couple other spots..was hoping u have had one lol so i can see a review
What does your charging system look like? I'm curious if you end up with three charging leads sticking out to charge this bad boy up.
I use a balance board with extended leads for the battery plugs and balance plugs. It's really very simple but works great. ruclips.net/video/DKbNzGo-y6w/видео.html
Awesome, thank you!
Do you ever take the batteries out of the plane to do a balance charge on them? I just set up my first large scale plane and I've never had to handle an ignition battery before. Since it's in the cowl it will be hard to reach for a balanced charge, so those power panels you have on your plane seemed the best to do just a regular charge.
I added cords and plugs so I can balance charge the packs in the plane. I need to do a story on that but it won't be for a while as I am going in for major surgery this coming Tuesday to remove a cancer tumor and some other stuff. I will get on it eventually!
Holy crap! Get better quick dude!
Are aeroworks still around
Nope. Lots of people were sad to see them close up. They got stuck in the middle of a dock strike that would not let product through to them and like many businesses, they just could not take that kind of shut down.
what size bat. did you you use on the igntion ?
I think that was an 1100mAh lipo but I did later replace it with an iginition kill that took power off the receiver so I could get rid of the ignition battery. Look on my site for the Tech Aero Ultra IBEC unit that I use on most of my planes.
+thintz12 thank you very much sr best regards from utila bay islands honduras
Possible for electric setup?
I suppose anything can be converted to electric, if you are talking about the plane? If you are talking about the plane, it is no longer available as AeroWorks went out of business/
oh that is a shame. I was talking about this plane.
i sew your videos i have a smaller plane a yak 54 i just build i have spent many hours on the web looking for a good gyro kit for my plane(s) and my funtana 90 if you could help any way i would really appriciate it it sounds and look like you know exactly what you doing. PLEASE HELP
+ELITE HOBBIES RC and weapons I think the Demon Cortex is the best gyro out there an I doubt you can go wrong with that unit.