How to Start and Tune DLE Engines 35RA DLE 55 DLE 55RA DLA 58
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- This video teaches a novice or intermediate Gas RC enthusiast how to properly tune and engine, as well as tips to start an engine successfully as well as trouble shoot problems. This will work for all DLE engines, DLE 35RA DLE 30, DLE 55, DLE 55RA DLA 58 or any RC engine
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Simply an excellent video and a great rundown on setting up and getting the engine to correctly run. Many Thanks for the information.
Thanks guys - We've found a lot guys have trouble with engines and seems like a step by step and troubleshoot video will help out a lot
I agree with the Red Line 50:1 Racing Oil. I have been using it for over a year now with awesome results. Clean burn and an increase in power / rpms in all of my DLE and Brison engines.
i am using the same oile but i am using the recommended mixture by DLE which is 1cc oil for 30 cc fuel , in another word , i am using 33 cc oil for every 1 liter of fuel
please advise
love how people carry on this is a waste of time but i honestly think this is a great little vid for people wanting more information , nice work fellas
Great presentation
You cover all the areas
Nice plane, thx for sharing. Appreciate it
Very informative! Have been searching for videos like this for sometime.
Not to mess with the timing? Always "mess" with the timing, as almost all the time engines come with bad timing. Mine come with 40 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) and it sounded and vibrated horrible. After watching a vid on youtube and read on forums I've change it to about 28 degrees. And it works great. So always check timing at a new engine. Cheers from Romania.
You could use a lower octane fuel or run a higher oil ratio.
Good Video, this helped me as many others i'm sure! Thanks!!
thanks guys. going to start up my 26cc engine with those settings
Great video! Could you make a followup video with audible examples of lean and rich when flying? There are so many videos of engines on youtube already tunned, but none saying "listen to this, that is rich/lean". So many times i hear my dle and think it is rich, lean it and it gets worse, and vice versa. I also keep getting perfect running on the ground but bad mixtures in the air.
great idea!
7 years later there still is not a video on RUclips like that😤
great video , looks like the elevator has some electro magnetic interferance going on though
I wouldn't want to fly that plane the way it is with elevators fluttering
The servo was from a bad extension and was corrected. In the video it mentions to be sure it's PROPERLY restrained. If you are using a restraint that it is going to "break free" at 1/2 throttle (are you using a screw driver with a rope in the ground?) then it is not fully restrained.
100LL aviation gas from the airport helps a lot. The low lead helps with cooling, lubrication, timing, plus the fuel has additives that resist contaminates, water, and does not have ethanol in it. Add Redline or Lucas 2 stroke racing oil, and about 2 caps off the Marvel mystery Oil bottle, full of Marvel Mystery Oil per gallon and most of your problems will disappear. From the smallest DLE to the largest DA or 3W this mix will do you right.
“another thing to consider, another thing to consider...etc” boy, thanks to this video, I will go electric.
Haha. Tim looks like Julian from trailer park boys and Tom looks like Wayne from Letterkenny.LOL.
Tim,
Nice video... Looks like you guys did it in the MO summer. LoL Good job...
Nice,Tim! Great job on the tutorial!
thanks guys, realy good video
Great info Tim.
Great video! Thanks! I have a new DLE 60 Twin. Which should be the initial setting for low nd high needles?
The video settings are over exposed, but the content is great
Think about this! If you are using something that holds your plane at IDLE ONLY - that is a REALLY dumb idea. What if your servo broke, you turn on the wrong model, or you forget to turn on your rx and failsafe set too high (such as 1/2 throttle). Again, (since it was said 3 times in the video, most people probably heard this but) but sure your planes is FULLY RESTRAINED. This implies your restraint will hold your plane for the motor size. If it doesn't, DON"T USE IT!!!!!!
Is the coil inside the connector for the spark plug actually required? The connector on my new DLE 20ra does not connect properly when the coil is inside but fits well without the coil.
Appreciate the info! I was having trouble with my new gas engine even being familiar with Nitros.
I would say you need to run 2-3 gallons using mineral based oil before changing to synthetic, and 32:1 ratio is a safer bet than using less oil at 50:1 ?.
Questions
If you want to make the plane autonomous,
How do you connect the pixhawk flight controller to the gas engine???
How do you test a 20cc DLE CDI unit. Resistant readings on wires. I by passed the switch. I have 6 volts direct to cdi unit, but no spark. It was running then after I stopped it and tried re starting but no spark. Check plug, and gap. It is a fairly new engine with only 5 flights on engine. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
i have a new gas, not glow engine. do i still start with high speed needle?
I've read the low needle handle most of the throttle range with the high only coming into play after 3/4 throttle or more. I need more info on this as it would make tuning much easier if we knew if this is correct.
I tune my High needle first getting the most RPM as possible then back it out 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn to keep some fuel there. Second I tune the low end needle. I go from idle to full throttle really quick and I am looking for that instant rev. Once I find that instant transition from idle to full throttle I back out the low needle 1/8 of a turn to keep some fuel there so it doesn't overheat. I have been doing this for 15 years and never had a single issue.
You've got some really bad glitching problems with that plane. The right elevator is flapping up and down at full throttle. You've got a bad radio set-up. Also I've been running gas engines for 35+ years and have NEVER started one at 1/4-1/2 throttle. Suggesting that someone do that, you are going to be libel when someone does that and the plane breaks free from its restraints and chops them or someone else up. REALLY dumb idea.
My dle 35 will start but will run for 3 seconds on idle then die, giving throttle when starting doesn't work either. What do i do?
holy crap. Just get to the point. Good info- but it's hard to wade through all of the jaw-jacking. Also, might want to talk about the HUGE amount of elevator jitter at the 15:09 mark.
very nice !!
Sounds of summer - and no lavalier mic! :) Maybe next time
Turning the prop without the spark plug in the cap is a BAD IDEA! Being unexpierienced I did that with my dle 30 engine and completely messed up the CDI! At first i thought it was a faulty engine cause it wouldnt run, then I noticed there were sparks coming out from the whole lenth of the ignition cable. It was short circuiting everywhere! So i checked the manual and it clearly said NEVER turn the prop without the spark plug in the cap! So i got a new ignition module, now the engine runs like a dream!
Hi Tronlegend - we have read that too but to be honest we have never had it cause an issue. I'm not sure how it would cause damage. I think that may be a warning to avoid shock, not damage
If anyone has information on how this may damage the unit let us know
The way to check ANY 2 stroke CDI ignition spark without damaging it:
1 Remove the spark plug
2 Attach the plug to the boot/ignition wire.
3 Hold the base of the spark plug to the side of the cylinder with a rubber band to ground it.
4 Flip the prop
a. You should see a blue/purple spark. A yellow/white spark is a weak spark which won't give a good solid run.
b. Keep the end of the spark plug away from the spark plug hole so that it does not ignite the gas in the cylinder.
c. Black oily residue on the plug means a rich engine and it could be fouled.
d. Light grey or light brown is the perfect mixture setting
e. White or scorched looking is a lean condition. Open up the high needle a bit.
RedwingRC It wouldnt mess up the CDI.
+RedwingRC the reason you NEVER test ANY CDI ignition system without at least a spark plug in the plug boot is because the ignition has to jump the gap...the bigger the gap, the more the unit has to work to jump the gap.....typically, a 6mm to 8mm gap is all that is needed to test the system is working....i'm a small engine mechanic by trade, with over 28 years experience, and yes, i fly R/C as well......hope this helps
+maverick351 Yes that helps but I have a question then - I have done this many times and never had an ignition fail. Now I don't do it excessively, but maybe 1x or 2x to see if it is sparking.
is it more a cummulative thing? that can damage it if you do it over and over? or could it fail upon one flip?
If the choke is closed fully, could the engine start and run or would it only pop/run for a a couple of seconds?
If the low needle was very lean and your throttle was high enough it would probably run.
LOL, I know, he had to be JUST overhead almost the whole time. There's a private airport about 18 miles away.
Great info! Do you guys comment here?
I'm trying to start my dle 30. Needles are set to factory. It will start at idle but if I take it more than 2 clicks out of idle it dies. Any ideas? Great video!
Yeah, it's too lean. PERIOD.
23 min 58sec for blaa blaa blaa....o my good!
Your presentation skill had me worrying about the legitimacy of Redwing RC, and the website is down.
Your right elevator is showing a lot of interference when you are running that engine.Don't fly that plane till you chase down that flapping elevator!
Who are you? Internet Safety Patrol?
King fuckhead he is right tho interference kills alot of models
How easy is dle-30 to tune
got my first dle55 engine and people are telling me i need to rip apart a bran new engine and file down the reed block? what the heck!
Back when we had "Choices" in planes and Engines....Now...it's just a WASTE LAND..!!!!😭😭😭
I've got a headache hearing your back ground noise.... but it's a helpful video though.... thanks
i have an issue with my DLE 55RA , i have three dle 55ra engines all of them have the same issue , they use to run very good with 22x8 prop, they produce 7200RPM on full throttle
after 10 flights the issue will start appear, on high speed there is no issue but on idle the engine will be 1500 rpm which is normal , then after almost 10 second on idle , the rpm will increase to 3000 then engin die , this mean fuel is not reaching to the engine. for the first time i notice this issue , i replaced the full carb including reads . the engine will return normal then after 10 flights the issue will start again ,
i tried to remove the inline filter between the enging and the tank , then i removed the T between the engin and the tank and make direct fule line to the engine but all my tries not solved the issue , it is only solved when i replace the carb completely.
now i have 3 engins and 6 extra carbs cleaned them and kept as standby , but i got fed up, and need permenant sulution for this issue
finally , it worth to mention that i am using Redline sentetic oile for two stroke engines , my mix is the standard mix 1cc oil for every 30 cc fuel ( 33 cc oil per 1 liter of fuele) , the fuel i am using is 88 octane
please advise if you faced this issue and have proper solution for it .
thanks
This is really strange! that all 3 would do the same thing. Sounds like an air leak I'm assuming since it revs up then dies (it's drawing air)
I'm suspecting the reed block? Have you looked at it ?
does it look like this?
www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D1851973&ei=mAO8VPzVHMyzggTT74OwCw&bvm=bv.83829542,d.eXY&psig=AFQjCNGyXxp9XYyYS4QNTT3RmxIG0bPj3w&ust=1421694218550438
Tim Pastor i replaced it on the first time and it was look as new , the issue on idle only on the full speed the engine looks more than perfect
@@timpastor4304 Air leak? No. Operator error....
how bout a video of you actually tuning a DLE. talking it great but a visual would be better.
Wow ,,,, what a waste of time
notice the elevator servo..hmmm?
+Richard B was wondering if anyone else noticed that. LMAO
Shame they're talking down so much about their customers. The information was good but they seem like the kind of people I'd like to ever want to do business with.
lol - do you mean because of my sweat or the locusts? - but yes it was pretty hot
I'm about to commit MURDER on my new DLE30 ! I had one in my plane for a couple years, it always ran nicely and tuned easily then it gave me a couple dead sticks and couldn't isolate the problem so I started trouble shooting...new plug, new tank and lines, new carby, new reed valve, new CDI, you name it. I run two sets of 5 eneloop batteries and a separate ignition battery and they're all good. Always done this, no probs. I replaced just about everything replaceable and the problem continued. I just couldn't get it to run at full throttle. Idle was fine but the transition to high always saw it missing. In the end I got fed up with it and bought a new motor. (coward - I know) but I was real cranky. I had about 6 flights on the NEW motor then the same problems occurred. Double Grrrrr ! The only thing I could think of was maybe the fuel and oil should be looked at as everything else seemed fine. I bought new fuel and oil that DLE recommended yesterday and had another go starting it. Idles still good but the transition to full speed coughed and spluttered then stopped. Maybe I'm not giving it enough time whenever I turn the H and L needles - you say around 20-30 secs so I did that but no observable changes. I've got a piece of 4x2 lump of wood ready to put it out of it's misery. So it's a relatively new motor with new components and she runs like hairy dog. ANY IDEAS ?
beet the crap out of it that should fix some thing or may be not -if not get a bigger hammer and send it back and say it came that way.
Probably low compression, (plating in cylinder gone from running too hot / lean
make a new video inside, the background noise is insane!
I've never understood guy who proudly announce, "Engine needles came factory set, never touched the needles" Really? Perhaps they got lucky? But, I doubt it. More likely they don't know how to adjust properly. This is an 8 year old video, I don't see the lawn boy break in recommendation anymore.
tell the scale plane in the background to fly somewhere else LoL !!
Stick to .40 Trainers boys.......
Good informational video but you guys repeated yourself so many times and this could have been half the length
The sound is terrible, making it hard to here what your saying ! Shame
RE DLE-55RA
Hi
I am looking to use this engine for a UAV project. I would like to guidance on how best to implement it.
I am willing to pay for your time.
Please feel free to request further information or clarifications.
You can reach me also on skype:cromwellcv
i am already building an fpv with gas engine, its a scaled rq7, a 55cc gas engine? what do you want to build? a high speed uav? or a huge uav? mine has 2,5m of wingspan and with a dle 35ra has plenety of power to do almost rocket climb
looking to build a multirotor like a quadcopter. Want to a flight controller with it.
How are you dealing with vibration issues?
thats a very hard thing to do with a gas engine, becouse gas engines cannot change rpm so fast as electric motors can, even with variable pitch propeller, becouse the large of the propeller is more important in generating trusht than the pitch, vibrations its a hard thing to solve with gas engine, i put a thick plumb in the fuselage near the cg and mount the autopilot with an antivibration standoff, even there are vibration but its kinda acceptable, stabilization system like the fma that work with infrared leds its best for this, but theres no osd with autopilot that work with that, but in a quadcopter that stabilization is to slow becouse need more angle than the inertial based.
Its a very expensive setup what you are trying to build, i would choose to use electric motors to stabilizate the quadcopter and use a more smaller engine in the cg facing up to generate lift with some fins under it to give more stabilization, also you can atach an brushless motor with a gearbox to use a starter and a alternator too for generate power to the motors, other idea its that you can use the gas engine as a generator only , other idea is to make an hybrid between a quadcopter and a airplane, the last one is the more easy way i think
what do you want to achive? long range flights? have you heard the titan lion batterys? that batterys are more lightweight than a lipo and had more current but les discharge rate
Thanks for the reply.
The vibration is a serious issue as flight controller appear to be susceptible to it. Why it puzzling this issue has not be overcome by now.
Regarding engines, we are open to using hybrid engine as long as they have enough power. Do you know of any good hybrid engines out there?
We would need about 9kW for our application.
I also looked into the titan batterries, they seem interesting, however the power generated is limited due to its discharge rate.
Wonder how they perform when connected in parrallel?
They appear to be using the lithium ion batteries low discharge rates.
I have seen new lithium ion batteries with higher discharge rate.
Would be great if they used those as it would be suitable for our applications.
i dont know any hybrid engine, however they are easy to make with brushless engines, the only tricky part is the clutch, if what you are going to build dont go to high altitude you can use stabilization based on infrared temperature, see the fma copilot stabilization system, its easy to build and the vibration its not going to be a issue, the lion batterys are more lightweight than lipos, if i where you i build a hybrid between a plane and a quadcopter
Excellent !
Boring waste of time with little helpful info...