Monogram's 1/48 B-26 Marauder: construction begins!
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- Опубликовано: 6 апр 2024
- Last week we took a look at Monogram's classic 1/48 kit. This time around we begin construction, offering some simple ideas to help the model fit together, a little more precisely...
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Nice to see you back. Enjoyed your work for many many years
Absolutely great subject for a video series. Love Monogram kits. I have A LOT of them. Thanks...!!
Learned more fitting tricks in this video than from any others. 👍🏻
The acrylic putty and wet cotton bud method is fantastic for these old school kit gaps.
Dunno, how i missed this video, but great work as always Spencer... really enjoying this build 👍
Great video, very inspiring!
Very useful advice. I have 3 or 4 of these Monogram bombers. This video should be helpful with all of them. 👍🏻🇦🇺
Great tips thanks! Just heading to the loft to find mine.
Great building suggestions Spencer! I've been in a nostalgic Monogram groove for the past year, having completed their F4F Wildcat last Christmas. I'm currently building the Monogram F4U-4 Corsair. A kit with many issues, but one I'm building in-flight, which does away with the toy-like moving landing gear and folding wing features. I find solving building challenge issues very rewarding as a modeler. It's opened me up to adding scratch-built details and stepping outside my comfort zone.
One thing to keep in mind with old kits done up through the early 1980s is the preferred glue at the time was tube glue, which was solvent in a jelly polymer form. This tended to allow for some slop in the parts fit as the glue would act as a bit of filler and structural reinforcement.
Liquid glues are better today, but they can have weakness on thin edge seams in parts that might see a bit of stress and popped seams if one isn't careful and there might be flex.
Plasticard added behind seams before assembly can give structure to such areas (such as perhaps the front nacelle to upper wing transition seam). I prefer that and liquid glue to super glue since the plastic welded together tends to sand evenly while super glue can dry harder than the surrounding plastic if it isn't sanded right after application.
As for keeping raised panel lines, I have had very good luck keeping them with Tamiya masking tape. I use the tape over a line lapping a seam and sand it on one side right up to the edge of the tape. When done, I move the tape to continue protecting the panel line and exposing the seam on the other side. It isn't perfect, but it works for the coarse sanding and you can use fine and ultra fine polishing grits over the whole surface without the risk of removing the line.
I still remember my first ever kit build way back in 89. A Monogram F-4. I still remember my dad sitting with me and helping with the cockpit, they going you picked it, you build it. Lol I was 9 and of course picked the coolest box at Toys R Us model shelf. But I got it done with minimal gluing of parts to myself lol
This brings back a lot of memories. I built this when it first came out. Since we were kids the gaps were not a big deal back then.
Spending the time to get good fit, applying strategies to reduce or eliminate gaps (before assembly), and strategic choosing of where to leave gaps to fix, have all combined to revolutioniz my modeling. I began applying these techniques a decade or more ago and I find now that I can often eliminate, or minimize dramatically, the need for sanding of seams. Wipe off techniques for fillers are especially useful for hard to reach areas where damage to surface detail is very likely if filling and sanding approaches are used. So, I must say that this discussion on your part is extremely important to those wishing to up their modeling game. I think back to those days before all of this when I dreaded having to go in and sand wing joints or hard to reach areas.
Outstanding video and presentation.
I love the challenge of the old classic Monogram and Revell kits.
Really great video. Please keep them coming. I want to do one of these kits know thanks to you.
I am so glad you returned to RUclips after such a long hiatus. I am enjoying every video and if it were not crazy expensive I would mail you my Monogram B-24J to compare against the Hobby Boss offering.
Great video on this old B-26 from Monogram..Looking forward to see more of your build vids on it..One tip I picked up on u-tube and has improved my filling loads..Try instead of using talc mixed with superglue,try any metal pigment..Metal pigment mixes more easy and sanding is also more easy but really smooths out to a near polish finish..
Now I gotta build a B26.
I love the box art. Built by the great Shep Paine.
This will be an exiting project to follow, especially since I’m in the process of building an old 70’ kit (JU 87 1/32) from Revell. I just got started so…feed me 😊. Many thanks from a swedish modeller.
Have a great build.
Some good tips Spencer 👍
Nice. 😊
Judicious use of masking when applying filler on the nacelle joints saved me sanding off details. Smoothing with moistened Bud further simplifies.
Hi Spence, just a little confused... how do you manage to 'stay calm & support Coventry City'? Or any other football club for that matter 😜 Cheers mate, great video.
Nothing more satisfying than taking one of these properly built and detailed older kits to a contest and plunking it down next to the latest "Tamyigawa" offering (shake the box to build). Great job Spence. I bet when you are done it will compare well to the ICM kit!