If you are interested in anything I used in the video... Fuel pump: amzn.to/2lDFxGd Hose grip pliers: amzn.to/2mal8ZJ Sil Glyde Lube: amzn.to/2lI84KO Pliers for the constant tension clamps: amzn.to/2lI9BR4
I'm late to this party but good work! Just really curious, wonder what some JB Weld would do to keeping those stuck in there? Ordered those hose-grip pliers, very nice! Dad would have watched you videos and said, _"He's got more specialty tools than Carter's got liver pills!!"_ Course, he was an old farmer, every stray screw, bolt, washer and nut he ever came across went into a coffee can or mason jar. It took him 3 hours to match a replacement bolt, washer and nut, but he never spent a dime on one in his life! Drove me nuts. He passed last year, I've got all those cans and jars on the bench. I don't ever use 'em, but they're there.....
Don’t change you MO for one bad comment. When there’s 16 bolts to remove, show the first and the last .....then tell the the naysayers to loop that 14 times if they prefer🤪 Your videos are great,
In the remote CA canyon where I lived, rattlesnakes often brought attention from the dogs. They don't like them at all! How my two large dogs never got bit I don't know. Usually, though, the dogs would make enough of a racket, alerting us that we needed to come quick. Usually when a snake realizes they are in trouble (idiot dogs not backing down) and they have options for escaping or hiding, they don't coil, but flee. They can't strike when fleeing through vines or thick brush, which never stops a determined dog. I think we just lucked out that neither of them were bit.
@Wes you should do/ show whatever you want Ot is your shop, labor and channel. If people want to complain then how about they make their own. We all are guests and we enjoy you being you.
Don’t worry about those jerks who give you grief about your videos. At least you are having a go at it while they play with their phones. Great content keep up the good work.
Hey Wes. Really enjoy your videos cuz of your calming way of explaining things. For the fix, another route can be adding an external check-valve in-line with the fuel pump. Not a "legit" fix per se but should be less money and time. Cheers
I have actually ran into that on a factory briggs vanguard engine just past the fuel pump there was a check valve entirely in the 1/4" line to the carb not just one with barbed fittings but actually shoved about an inch up the line and held in place with a crimp around the line.
I wish I'd seen this video 6 months ago. I got a very used cub cadet off marketplace for $200 cause I wanted the kohler 18 out of it. would not start - thought it was a carb issue. the carb was PART of the issue(the solenoid plunger was stuck extended) but after that was fixed/cleaned it wasn't getting fuel. This was my first time seeing the mechanical fuel pump, and I quickly figured out it was pumping but as you said not holding. I took it apart and the same issue with the poppets. Bought a new one and bam, good to go. but it took me a while to figure out. great video very helpful - earned a sub from me! FYI there are certain Kohler singles that have this same type of pump on the side of the engine and they have the exact issue with the valves working loose. I had to replace one on a craftsman LT2000.
Your videos are very detailed actually, I can repair certain things just by watching you do them. One day I should send you a video on how to remove a Cataract!! Doc Mike USN
I have a 1968 Raider 12HP Wheel Horse. It has a Kohler. We rebuilt it twenty years ago and my dad said it really didn’t need it after getting inside. Retired it to a toy in 2009 but it still starts and runs good. Has been a work horse all the years before I retired it.
I had a Suzuki sj410 . That keep struggling with fuel starvation . Eventually I took off the fuel pump and stripped it . It had “ plastic” one way valves inside . Held in place by rubber rivets . No service parts available. So had a smoke and a coffee . I substituted the rubber rivets with stainless steel screws and nuts . With a dab of Threadlock I had available. It worked . Never had any issues with it after . So when the say no serviceable parts . There is always a way . Love your videos . Great content as always . Kind regards Martin UK .
Heh. Long story short, it would not start so I took the pump apart and found the poppet valve had vibrated out of the bore. Pretty much exactly like I did in the video except I didn't know what I was looking for.
My Kohler had 2 of these pumps fain within 12 months. The first time, I spent the $70 for the OEM pump. The 2nd time, I said screw it and installed an electric pulse pump in its place for only about $20. No issues since.
morning Wes I have a zero turn cub .love it .fun machine. Kohler twin cam ohv.easy to work on. I have a 1988 Sears Wheel Horse with briggs and stratton 400 cc 11hp 3 speed standard trans. That machine was my dads .That tractor is my pride and joy .it gets washed and bath and covered when i am done. New oil and lube end of summer. im the only one that drives and works on it. just painted it for the first time.Same color. Looks new.
I'm not a mechanic, But I saw a man on RUclips weld plastic with soldering iron and a zip tie. It looked like it would hold. Might try that on your problem with the part your installing. GOD'S blessings to you.
I've got a 2004 horizontal command that will be getting a new fuel pump now. The long cranking is making sense. Mine has the crankcase version. The fuel pump has 4 hoses going into it. I keep a can of spray silicone on the shelf, great for spritzing hoses before you push them back on, coating spark plug boots etc. I'll have to pick up some sil-glyde.
I used to have a cob kadet tractor. Mine was an old model than yours they are very strong little tractors and with a little TLC they will last a very long time and they are one very good work horse of a tractor and it will surprise you as to how much work it can really do I got mine used and worked very hard for over 20 years. And I then sold it and it was still working then
Well, it isn't the problem I'm having, but you captured my attention so I watched and enjoyed the whole video. Yep, everything you said made sense except that you forgot the part about snap ring, snapping you in the back of finger then hitting you in the tooth. Snap rings are more apt to hit the tooth than the eye. This was a great video. Thanks for the chuckle.
I had a guy give me a mower just like that except mine has the Briggs V-twin and he told me the engine was blown. I went and picked it up for the heck of it didn’t really want it but I’m glad I did. I drug it up on the trailer and brought it home I poured some gas in it and try to start it and it started and ran really rough and wouldn’t run much faster than an idle While missing and stumbling and smoking black. A snap the breather box apart and the air filter was completely stopped up as soon as I left the air filter out the engine revved up and smoothed out. I change the oil and put a new air filter in it and it runs great but it needs a stator For the charging system. The biggest problem I have now is I can’t get it to mow worth a shit. I sharpened the blades that were on it and it didn’t make any difference so I put a new set of blades on it Still very little. The deck has two small rust holes in it but I don’t see how that would affect it much. The clutch doesn’t seem to be slipping at least until the battery gets weak the belt looks good the thing has me stumped. You have to mow the yard twice with it to get it to cut everything.
Did you check deck / shaft bearings and the shafts themselves ? Even if they're not making noise they can cause that problem. Also check the pulley surfaces for rubber build up. Take a cone stone hone on a dremmel tool and lightly rough up the belt surface area on the pulleys. Most likely the belt is slipping or it's a combination of both of those issues. Also install a new belt. NOT a Chinese after market. Sometimes NAPA stocks a belt that'll work. They had a really good quality Gates belt that worked perfectly for my 1972 Wheel Horse Commander I had back in 2013. I gave it to a very good friend of my Wife's from her Church when we moved from our house to an apartment due my health issues and could no longer work full time. I have 800 hours training from a vocational school on small engines and the items they're used on including lawn tractors. Plus several decades experience repairing them both plus a whole lotta other stuff. I love the old saying. If ya want it done right, do it yourself. I've got 5 other diplomas in mechanical arts as well including Welding Technology that included reading welding blueprints and actually drawing up said blueprints. Ya should never stop learning till your 6 feet under as far as I'm concerned.
Don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet but the CRC brake cleaner in the green can is the chlorinated stronger stuff. My favorite stuff is the Wurth but it's harder to find in the states since its European made. That fuel pump setup is definitely cheesy. Definitely works in theory but you have to ask yourself what they were thinking when they used plastic to make the body of it, except maybe, "Good, this thing is cheap, and will definitely fail, keeping our service departments, and parts after sales program in business." Lol Your videos and content are top-notch and both valuable in information, and the commentary is great.
I think you have that backwards, the red can has the chlorinated stuff (EDIT, they seem to have sold non-chlorinated in a red can in some places although I read that they have stopped doing that, I don't think chlorinated exists in a green can anywhere), if it says non flammable it's chlorinated. I don't find it much better or worse but I guess back in the old days it meant you could smoke while using it.
@@samthenerf All the CRC cans that I used were the chlorinated in the red can if I remember correctly. This was quite a few years ago. I don't know if the location of where you live plays a part, but I'm in upstate NY. Now I try to call the Wurth guy whenever I can, or have the need for more than just brake clean from him. They make some of the best stuff I've ever used.
I bought some water based brake cleaner this summer. Now I look for all the warnings and buy that. I resurrected my 2001 Exmark Turf Ranger after about ten years in the shed. It sounds like you're Cub Cadet. It has a Kohler Command 23. After lots of little things I got it running pretty good now. That was a 3 beer video. That is a high ranking Wes. Have a good weekend
Generaly a very good engine. I had a 18hp V twin on a 2042 Cub. Its now my m8's driveway grader tractor. Still going strong. Next is ballon quad tyres for traction. Great vid, been watching you for awhile. Just joined hopped on your Bus.
While I have a brand new Craftsmen 18.5 hp riding mower that I use in places where my bagging mower can't reach, I much prefer my old MTD Yard Machine that I bought several years ago. It has a 20 hp Tecumseh engine with twin carbs and a 42" deck. I used it for almost everything until Hurricane Michael hit and I found I was using it more to haul a trailer around to move tree and limb debris for both me and one of my neighbors. I took the deck off, which is why the Craftsman, so I could clear some of the uneven areas where the trees, fourteen of them, had been pulled out of the ground by the storm. That old MTD rarely hesitated to do everything I wanted it to do and weight did not seem to bother it. Eventually, the carbs finally gave out and it landed in the shop to have new ones installed. Age and corrosion had done the original carbs in. The Tecumseh is an orphan engine in that it is no longer being manufactured and parts are getting harder and harder to find for it. When the engine does finally go I'll have to look and see if I can find an engine that will fit the body but until them I'm going to keep running it. I finally did reinstall the deck and added a bagger kit once the land was level enough to mow again. I think, really, it's all comes down to the preference of the owner and how hard parts are to find or shops to maintain them. One local shop refuses to even open the hood on my MTD whereas other shops only repair B&S engines.
I have done that same valve cover replacement twice, not due to a bad fuel pump but for the threads on the oil filler stripping out. Top tip don’t over tighten the oil fill cap. The snap ring does work especially when you don’t have the fancy pants hose clamp pliers.
As you stated, the snap ring is useless. Hose pliers worked well as you show. I expect vise grips would also work. The engine starts up so easily when it has fuel. What a difference. Dave.
If you trim around things before you mow you are less likely to hit them. AWESOME job on the mower and using the factory replacement part. Good dog you did not know he was pointing out that the color band on that wolly bear tells you that this winter is going to be cold as h3!!. Need to listen to him also. Now just make some down spouts on a remote so you can move them from your mower. Boring story but if you know John Deere parts you have probably heard of dealer parts or sajac parts in Beaver Dam WI. That started by them buying a brand new unused tractor or implement and completely dismantling it to sell the parts. I was working on equipment there many moons ago and surprised they where tearing apart a new combine, the guys working explained that is how they get the parts they sold. That is a long time ago, I am sure most parts are now just knock off parts from over seas. I look at everything I buy and decide if I really need it by where it was made. I have no issue with Mexican electronics they have awesome factories that I wish would have been built in the north, I do not hate the people just the governments.
7:35 minutes of PURE VIEWING BLISS.!.! Best 4 machine screw removal I'VE EVER SEEN.! Hands Down, and 2 BIG THUMBS UP. 5 ***** TO BOOT.! Honestly I agree with all the others who LOOK Forward to your TIME SHARING...! WHATarethe 4 YELLOW CAPS for at the EPILOGUE/OUTRO..?.? And what about PLASTIC WELDING, build up a retaining rim.?.? I remember something about it for motorcycle fairings, etc..? And next time put the "C"clip in a vise.?.? Now that I've had 7 month's to figger it out, smile..AHHH, Fa story Specs, ahhhhhh, fine, fine, fine.
That thing is a pain in the ass... I like the idea of being creative and using a 50 cent off the shelf part instead of a custom tool, but it doesn't actually fit well into the holes, and it was a hair too big for my snap ring pliers. Why not make a one-time (two times) use cheap plastic tool that is made to fit? A ring with some knobs on the ID that you squeeze with a pliers?
Put an in line fuel shut off valve on it and use it to keep the fuel from draining back. Another option like someone else said is seat the poppet valve and heat the edge around it with a soldering iron and roll the edge over to hold it in place.
had same problem on one, added inline check valve at pump inlet for less than $10, you could also dimple the plastic around that valve with a hot iron the lock it in place
Hi Wes, thought you might be amused by this. I looked up the hose pliers on Amazon US=$36.03, UK=£86.97 + £14.99 delivery! That's over 100 quid all in, plus I would have to wait a month before they consent to deliver. I expect a bit of a mark up for shipping etc, but that's taking the mick! Sadly it's fairly typical of US made kit. It's often easier (and cheaper) to get cheap tat from China than from the US. Still, thanks for making your videos, I really enjoy them. Cheers Owen
This was an excellent video. Thank you! This is exactly why I have probably been having to prime my mower, each time I use it, for 2 years. $75.00 or a simple prime each time with gas, I think I will save the money. 😉 A great video all the same though. 👍👍
I have fixed several plastic items using an inexpensive 3d printing pen including 2 of the kohler command fuel pumps. milage may vary but it's a handy tool for some situations. my day job is small engines. I prefer using new parts but sometimes you have to make do. I'll be watching. you only really need the crazy ring if you mess up the angle. hokey as the design is it works and doesn't leak the have went to those type pump fittings on all replacement pumps including the ones for the old k series. the casting of the sleeves into the valve cover was because folks were losing the shoulder bolts and using normal bolts and breaking the valve covers.
Yeah I've taken a lot of heat for not patching up the old pump. I wonder how much crap I would have gotten for not replacing the pump if I had patched the old one together. Hard to say I guess...
@@WatchWesWork Everyone has their own opinion about what you should and shouldn't do. and what they would do diffrently. With that check valve out I would have only tried to fix it if i couldn't get a replacement. Everybody has opinions but your the one turning the wrenches. You fixed the problem it works now and you don't need to worry about the old pump failing and having the same problem again. so solid repair and onto the next adventure
You do excellent work West. Forget the trolls and do your thing. Any monkey can take anything apart, putting it back together correctly sets us apart from the monkeys.
I am new subscriber and just wanted to throw you my thoughts and support. You are honest and intelligent and you just are making videos about what you like to do.and hoPe maybe to help others. I enjoy watching them and like your down to earth and refreshing style. Do keep it up! As to the whiners, F’ ‘em !!. Never forget this is your channel and you run it the way YOU like, showing content the way YOU WANT. Keep up the great work, and one more thing your channels growth says it all!! Youre doing it right
It's good to see you back in your office. What happened to the 2 live feeds ? Thanks for your time and effort in making videos .you make them enjoyable and interesting to watch.
Oh man Wes, get rid of that Koehler pump & convert it to a Briggs vacuum operated pump. Cheaper reliable pump & won't fill crank case with gas when diaphragm fails. Lots of videos on that new Utubey thing, maybe you've heard of it. Love watching you work
Good info here. After viewing the video, I would be tempted to just use an inline squeeze bulb to prime the fuel line. Save the old assembly and glue in the poppet with some Right Stuff just for having a spare around
I like the Right Stuff, but I don't think any RTV silicone can stand up to gasoline. Some have suggested melting the rim of the plastic to deform it around the poppet valve. I think that's a viable solution.
Cub Cadet was originally an International-Harvester Brand. After the Navistar split, it remained an International brand. They have a good following. I have heard that Kohler Korea builds engines from sub-assemblies sourced from other vendors. Kohler began life as a German plumbing consortium, making every thing from boilers to faucets to tubs, sinks, and the like. They appear to pair up well with Korea and not PRC. But, that's just my 2¢, spend it well.
Hey Wes, I had a similar problem with a single cylinder Kohler with a mechanical fuel pump but in my case it was a cheap aftermarket pump and the plastic kept distorting so the check valves wouldn’t seal but the diaphragm was fine, after 3 pumps failing the same way in short order I found some 1/4” in line barbed checks which I installed on the suction and outlet lines... so far no more problems, you may want to give it a try if that new pump fails you down the road. Love the videos, keep it up!
That diaphragm looks like a Holley accelerator pump diaphragm. The plastic didn't creep, it warped and if you want to get more technical, it suffered from core shift. And you didn't show us where you got your tools from, so now I don't know how to fix my stuff. RUclips should only allow good comments to you as I am sure you get your share of crazies. You have to remember Milleniums grew up in daycare and video games and Facebook.
Very weird that the engine wouldn’t start off the fuel that was already in the carburetor bowl even with the old pump. It should’ve started regardless, assuming the bowl is full at the time it was shut down last. That mower is a catch, rarely see the twin command drive shaft cubs anymore. I got 3 at my shop but they are the single cylinder commands. I’ve sold most of the parts off them to date. Extremely reliable and durable mowers!
in case you see this, i had a twin cylinder kohler command 20 that won't start - thought valves might be out of adjustment, but when I took the valve covers off there's no set screw and the plate that contacts the valve is curved so it doesn't look like the valves are adjustable. Any ideas?
@@jeremy888ferris7 the valves aren’t adjustable, they are hydraulic lifters on those engines. Even some of the single cylinder ones was hydraulic but a few first gens were solid lifters. However yours is only a hydraulic lifter system being a Kohler command. What issue are you having?
I had a poulan- pro that did the same thing. It had one of the pulse type fuel pump mounted high up on the engine. What was happening was the gas tank was under the seat, so the outlet from the tank was a lot lower than the fuel pump, so when it sat for a while the gas in the hose would run back down the hose so it took a lot of cranking to get the gas back up to the pump to start the motor. An in line check valve up close to the fuel pump solved the problem.
My coworker has the same issue with a cub but a vacuum fuel pump. thought it had a check somewhere in it but never got around to checking it out. Now that I'm thinking about it my cub has the same issue but i have used it since last fall.
I know the vacuum or impulse pumps on the Briggs engines have little rubber flaps that act as valves. The rubber gets hard and won't seal and that's all she wrote. But the new ones are really cheap.
Been watching your videos for a little while thought I’d go back and watch some older ones-I think it would be funny if you got those beer goggles/glasses and tried doing a little task like this while wearing them 😂😂😂😂
After the suction stroke the pressure stroke and the check valve on the inlet suction is letting the fuel just go back to the tank it's basically just pushing and pulling fuel back and forth instead of sending proper pressure and volume to the carb if it was just the suction check valve is the problem you can get a inline check valve and put in the line on the inlet of the pu6
In a pinch...you might use a small auto-matic center punch to raise a few burrs on the perimeter of those 2 poppet valve...might hold them in for …..another week..?
@@WatchWesWork ethanol swells the Jeep Wrangler TJ and early JK check valves in the gas tank causing overflow issues. You have to remove them and file them down, or buy a new tank with a vavle that will swell :)
You can convert it over to a vacuum pump.. gotta fabricate a steel cover w a breather hose nozzle and bolt it to the fuel pump mount. Run a hose to briggs fuel pump and line in w fuel line to carb. Mount it to engine shroud.
My Napa store sells a larger tube that's about twice the size of the one in the video. When I saw it I couldn't get the money out of my pocket fast enough!
Good video but you never followed through with an update as to how it starts after setting a few days? I currently have that same engine with an electric fuel pump which eliminates all of the possible issues you mentioned and it still starts hard after just a few days.
if your fuel tank cap has a plugged vent or a fuel filter is plugged or a kinked line they will create enough vacuum to pull that poppet out. seen that many times. also seen fuel tanks collapsed from a plugged cap vent. good to check the whole system when ya have a problem.
That's an interesting though. However, back in the first video on this machine we replaced the fuel lines and filter (which were falling apart). I also pulled some fuel through the lines with a vacuum pump. I know that is not the issue.
I would probably have roughed both ODs of the valve housings and used a little JB Weld to hold them place. If I encounter the problem that is what I will try.
I’m going to put a klick- knack fuel pump on my Koehler vertical 20 hp. engine I have replaced the vacuum fuel pump three times and it still acts just like you said. Let it set and it will not start. I assume there is vacuum in the engine when cranking?
I've got a zero turn cub cadet that runs perfect starts up when you get it hot and park cut it off get back on it will not turn to start at all turns over fine but won't start when it cools down and starts right back up
What is your opinion on the aftermarket fuel pumps and carburetors? My Dad just gave me a series 2000 with less than 300 hours thats been sitting for 10 years. It won’t start and I suspect it needs a new pump and maybe a carb. Not sure if worth spending extra on OEM or consider aftermarket.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
If you are interested in anything I used in the video...
Fuel pump: amzn.to/2lDFxGd
Hose grip pliers: amzn.to/2mal8ZJ
Sil Glyde Lube: amzn.to/2lI84KO
Pliers for the constant tension clamps: amzn.to/2lI9BR4
Do you have Corn gas.?
What year is this lawn tractor? I have a 2005 LT1046 with a 23hp Kohler Command
I'm late to this party but good work! Just really curious, wonder what some JB Weld would do to keeping those stuck in there?
Ordered those hose-grip pliers, very nice!
Dad would have watched you videos and said, _"He's got more specialty tools than Carter's got liver pills!!"_ Course, he was an old farmer, every stray screw, bolt, washer and nut he ever came across went into a coffee can or mason jar. It took him 3 hours to match a replacement bolt, washer and nut, but he never spent a dime on one in his life! Drove me nuts. He passed last year, I've got all those cans and jars on the bench. I don't ever use 'em, but they're there.....
Your "down to Earth " attitude while addressing problems is fantastic. Loving your channel thus far!!
Don’t change you MO for one bad comment. When there’s 16 bolts to remove, show the first and the last .....then tell the the naysayers to loop that 14 times if they prefer🤪 Your videos are great,
That dog is doing good work. Sure it was a caterpillar this time...but next time it might be a tiger or hyena, and then what!? Nice video.
Or maybe two caterpillars...
In the remote CA canyon where I lived, rattlesnakes often brought attention from the dogs. They don't like them at all! How my two large dogs never got bit I don't know. Usually, though, the dogs would make enough of a racket, alerting us that we needed to come quick. Usually when a snake realizes they are in trouble (idiot dogs not backing down) and they have options for escaping or hiding, they don't coil, but flee. They can't strike when fleeing through vines or thick brush, which never stops a determined dog. I think we just lucked out that neither of them were bit.
@@siskokidd Well you can keep those rattlers! No thanks!
@@siskokidd b6p
@Wes you should do/ show whatever you want Ot is your shop, labor and channel. If people want to complain then how about they make their own. We all are guests and we enjoy you being you.
Don’t worry about those jerks who give you grief about your videos. At least you are having a go at it while they play with their phones. Great content keep up the good work.
Hey Wes. Really enjoy your videos cuz of your calming way of explaining things. For the fix, another route can be adding an external check-valve in-line with the fuel pump. Not a "legit" fix per se but should be less money and time. Cheers
I was thinking the same thing! Something like a squeeze bulb like you would have on the gas tank of a boat with an outboard motor.
I have actually ran into that on a factory briggs vanguard engine just past the fuel pump there was a check valve entirely in the 1/4" line to the carb not just one with barbed fittings but actually shoved about an inch up the line and held in place with a crimp around the line.
I have this tractor and it has been great for the past 20 years. Just disassembled / cleaned the carb and changed sparks - runs good as new!
I wish I'd seen this video 6 months ago. I got a very used cub cadet off marketplace for $200 cause I wanted the kohler 18 out of it. would not start - thought it was a carb issue. the carb was PART of the issue(the solenoid plunger was stuck extended) but after that was fixed/cleaned it wasn't getting fuel. This was my first time seeing the mechanical fuel pump, and I quickly figured out it was pumping but as you said not holding. I took it apart and the same issue with the poppets. Bought a new one and bam, good to go. but it took me a while to figure out. great video very helpful - earned a sub from me! FYI there are certain Kohler singles that have this same type of pump on the side of the engine and they have the exact issue with the valves working loose. I had to replace one on a craftsman LT2000.
Your videos are very detailed actually, I can repair certain things just by watching you do them. One day I should send you a video on how to remove a Cataract!! Doc Mike USN
I have a 1968 Raider 12HP Wheel Horse. It has a Kohler. We rebuilt it twenty years ago and my dad said it really didn’t need it after getting inside. Retired it to a toy in 2009 but it still starts and runs good. Has been a work horse all the years before I retired it.
I had a Suzuki sj410 . That keep struggling with fuel starvation .
Eventually I took off the fuel pump and stripped it .
It had “ plastic” one way valves inside .
Held in place by rubber rivets .
No service parts available.
So had a smoke and a coffee .
I substituted the rubber rivets with stainless steel screws and nuts . With a dab of
Threadlock I had available.
It worked . Never had any issues with it after .
So when the say no serviceable parts . There is always a way .
Love your videos . Great content as always .
Kind regards Martin UK .
but... the gory details of how you figured it out are the most useful details!
Heh. Long story short, it would not start so I took the pump apart and found the poppet valve had vibrated out of the bore. Pretty much exactly like I did in the video except I didn't know what I was looking for.
My Kohler had 2 of these pumps fain within 12 months. The first time, I spent the $70 for the OEM pump. The 2nd time, I said screw it and installed an electric pulse pump in its place for only about $20. No issues since.
morning Wes I have a zero turn cub .love it .fun machine. Kohler twin cam ohv.easy to work on. I have a 1988 Sears Wheel Horse with briggs and stratton 400 cc 11hp 3 speed standard trans. That machine was my dads .That tractor is my pride and joy .it gets washed and bath and covered when i am done. New oil and lube end of summer. im the only one that drives and works on it. just painted it for the first time.Same color. Looks new.
I'm not a mechanic, But I saw a man on RUclips weld plastic with soldering iron and a zip tie. It looked like it would hold. Might try that on your problem with the part your installing. GOD'S blessings to you.
I've got a 2004 horizontal command that will be getting a new fuel pump now. The long cranking is making sense. Mine has the crankcase version. The fuel pump has 4 hoses going into it. I keep a can of spray silicone on the shelf, great for spritzing hoses before you push them back on, coating spark plug boots etc. I'll have to pick up some sil-glyde.
I used to have a cob kadet tractor. Mine was an old model than yours they are very strong little tractors and with a little TLC they will last a very long time and they are one very good work horse of a tractor and it will surprise you as to how much work it can really do I got mine used and worked very hard for over 20 years. And I then sold it and it was still working then
Well, it isn't the problem I'm having, but you captured my attention so I watched and enjoyed the whole video. Yep, everything you said made sense except that you forgot the part about snap ring, snapping you in the back of finger then hitting you in the tooth. Snap rings are more apt to hit the tooth than the eye. This was a great video. Thanks for the chuckle.
To hell with the negative turds. You do great work. Love the channel.
I had a guy give me a mower just like that except mine has the Briggs V-twin and he told me the engine was blown. I went and picked it up for the heck of it didn’t really want it but I’m glad I did. I drug it up on the trailer and brought it home I poured some gas in it and try to start it and it started and ran really rough and wouldn’t run much faster than an idle While missing and stumbling and smoking black. A snap the breather box apart and the air filter was completely stopped up as soon as I left the air filter out the engine revved up and smoothed out. I change the oil and put a new air filter in it and it runs great but it needs a stator For the charging system. The biggest problem I have now is I can’t get it to mow worth a shit. I sharpened the blades that were on it and it didn’t make any difference so I put a new set of blades on it Still very little. The deck has two small rust holes in it but I don’t see how that would affect it much. The clutch doesn’t seem to be slipping at least until the battery gets weak the belt looks good the thing has me stumped. You have to mow the yard twice with it to get it to cut everything.
Did you check deck / shaft bearings and the shafts themselves ?
Even if they're not making noise they can cause that problem.
Also check the pulley surfaces for rubber build up.
Take a cone stone hone on a dremmel tool and lightly rough up the belt surface area on the pulleys.
Most likely the belt is slipping or it's a combination of both of those issues.
Also install a new belt.
NOT a Chinese after market.
Sometimes NAPA stocks a belt that'll work.
They had a really good quality Gates belt that worked perfectly for my 1972 Wheel Horse Commander I had back in 2013.
I gave it to a very good friend of my Wife's from her Church when we moved from our house to an apartment due my health issues and could no longer work full time.
I have 800 hours training from a vocational school on small engines and the items they're used on including lawn tractors.
Plus several decades experience repairing them both plus a whole lotta other stuff.
I love the old saying.
If ya want it done right, do it yourself.
I've got 5 other diplomas in mechanical arts as well including Welding Technology that included reading welding blueprints and actually drawing up said blueprints.
Ya should never stop learning till your 6 feet under as far as I'm concerned.
Don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet but the CRC brake cleaner in the green can is the chlorinated stronger stuff. My favorite stuff is the Wurth but it's harder to find in the states since its European made. That fuel pump setup is definitely cheesy. Definitely works in theory but you have to ask yourself what they were thinking when they used plastic to make the body of it, except maybe, "Good, this thing is cheap, and will definitely fail, keeping our service departments, and parts after sales program in business." Lol
Your videos and content are top-notch and both valuable in information, and the commentary is great.
I know, and Kohler has the ,ost expensive parts of any small engine.
I think you have that backwards, the red can has the chlorinated stuff (EDIT, they seem to have sold non-chlorinated in a red can in some places although I read that they have stopped doing that, I don't think chlorinated exists in a green can anywhere), if it says non flammable it's chlorinated. I don't find it much better or worse but I guess back in the old days it meant you could smoke while using it.
@@samthenerf
All the CRC cans that I used were the chlorinated in the red can if I remember correctly. This was quite a few years ago. I don't know if the location of where you live plays a part, but I'm in upstate NY. Now I try to call the Wurth guy whenever I can, or have the need for more than just brake clean from him. They make some of the best stuff I've ever used.
I bought some water based brake cleaner this summer. Now I look for all the warnings and buy that. I resurrected my 2001 Exmark Turf Ranger after about ten years in the shed. It sounds like you're Cub Cadet. It has a Kohler Command 23. After lots of little things I got it running pretty good now. That was a 3 beer video. That is a high ranking Wes. Have a good weekend
3 beers? That's solid.
Generaly a very good engine. I had a 18hp V twin on a 2042 Cub. Its now my m8's driveway grader tractor. Still going strong. Next is ballon quad tyres for traction. Great vid, been watching you for awhile. Just joined hopped on your Bus.
While I have a brand new Craftsmen 18.5 hp riding mower that I use in places where my bagging mower can't reach, I much prefer my old MTD Yard Machine that I bought several years ago. It has a 20 hp Tecumseh engine with twin carbs and a 42" deck. I used it for almost everything until Hurricane Michael hit and I found I was using it more to haul a trailer around to move tree and limb debris for both me and one of my neighbors. I took the deck off, which is why the Craftsman, so I could clear some of the uneven areas where the trees, fourteen of them, had been pulled out of the ground by the storm. That old MTD rarely hesitated to do everything I wanted it to do and weight did not seem to bother it. Eventually, the carbs finally gave out and it landed in the shop to have new ones installed. Age and corrosion had done the original carbs in. The Tecumseh is an orphan engine in that it is no longer being manufactured and parts are getting harder and harder to find for it. When the engine does finally go I'll have to look and see if I can find an engine that will fit the body but until them I'm going to keep running it. I finally did reinstall the deck and added a bagger kit once the land was level enough to mow again. I think, really, it's all comes down to the preference of the owner and how hard parts are to find or shops to maintain them. One local shop refuses to even open the hood on my MTD whereas other shops only repair B&S engines.
Use a soldering iron to carefully melt the plastic against and over the valve insert at several places.
I have done that same valve cover replacement twice, not due to a bad fuel pump but for the threads on the oil filler stripping out. Top tip don’t over tighten the oil fill cap. The snap ring does work especially when you don’t have the fancy pants hose clamp pliers.
As you stated, the snap ring is useless. Hose pliers worked well as you show. I expect vise grips would also work.
The engine starts up so easily when it has fuel. What a difference.
Dave.
You just need something that can push on the little tabs. A snap ring is indeed useless.
If you trim around things before you mow you are less likely to hit them. AWESOME job on the mower and using the factory replacement part. Good dog you did not know he was pointing out that the color band on that wolly bear tells you that this winter is going to be cold as h3!!. Need to listen to him also. Now just make some down spouts on a remote so you can move them from your mower. Boring story but if you know John Deere parts you have probably heard of dealer parts or sajac parts in Beaver Dam WI. That started by them buying a brand new unused tractor or implement and completely dismantling it to sell the parts. I was working on equipment there many moons ago and surprised they where tearing apart a new combine, the guys working explained that is how they get the parts they sold. That is a long time ago, I am sure most parts are now just knock off parts from over seas. I look at everything I buy and decide if I really need it by where it was made. I have no issue with Mexican electronics they have awesome factories that I wish would have been built in the north, I do not hate the people just the governments.
In line chek valve ,2$, will fix that every time ,greatings from Romania ,you sir have a ghift ,love your chanel
Great video, very well done. Never seen a fuel pump design like that before.
I personally like Kohler engines. My last two lawn mowers had/have Kohler engines. And my old mower is still working at my son's house... Thumbs Up!
7:35 minutes of PURE VIEWING BLISS.!.! Best 4 machine screw removal I'VE EVER SEEN.! Hands Down, and 2 BIG THUMBS UP. 5 ***** TO BOOT.! Honestly I agree with all the others who LOOK Forward to your TIME SHARING...! WHATarethe 4 YELLOW CAPS for at the EPILOGUE/OUTRO..?.? And what about PLASTIC WELDING, build up a retaining rim.?.? I remember something about it for motorcycle fairings, etc..? And next time put the "C"clip in a vise.?.? Now that I've had 7 month's to figger it out, smile..AHHH, Fa story Specs, ahhhhhh, fine, fine, fine.
Great diagnosis description and repair.Enjoy your vid's Wes.
Watching you remove those 4 bolts was fascinating, didn't bother watching the rest 🤣. Always enjoy your vids Wes, keep them coming.
Love the circlip indexing tool quality stuff.....crafted in Korea!Keep up the good work Wes!Greetings from St Antoine Abbe Quebec Canada!
That thing is a pain in the ass... I like the idea of being creative and using a 50 cent off the shelf part instead of a custom tool, but it doesn't actually fit well into the holes, and it was a hair too big for my snap ring pliers. Why not make a one-time (two times) use cheap plastic tool that is made to fit? A ring with some knobs on the ID that you squeeze with a pliers?
Put an in line fuel shut off valve on it and use it to keep the fuel from draining back. Another option like
someone else said is seat the poppet valve and heat the edge around it with a soldering iron and roll the edge over to hold it in place.
had same problem on one, added inline check valve at pump inlet for less than $10, you could also dimple the plastic around that valve with a hot iron the lock it in place
Hmm. I did not think of melting the plastic. That's a good idea. I was looking around for a wood screw to jam in there...
I also used a soldering gun to melt around my check valves to seal/stake them in place.
@@WatchWesWork Could you weld it? ;^{ )
Hi Wes, thought you might be amused by this. I looked up the hose pliers on Amazon US=$36.03, UK=£86.97 + £14.99 delivery! That's over 100 quid all in, plus I would have to wait a month before they consent to deliver. I expect a bit of a mark up for shipping etc, but that's taking the mick! Sadly it's fairly typical of US made kit. It's often easier (and cheaper) to get cheap tat from China than from the US.
Still, thanks for making your videos, I really enjoy them.
Cheers
Owen
This was an excellent video. Thank you! This is exactly why I have probably been having to prime my mower, each time I use it, for 2 years. $75.00 or a simple prime each time with gas, I think I will save the money. 😉 A great video all the same though. 👍👍
I would have used "cool" soldering iron to roll some plastic over top of the popper valve. So when the plastic heats up it won't be a bigger hole.
You could melt the plastic with a soldering iron once you push the valve down. Nice seat cover on the cub cadet.
I have fixed several plastic items using an inexpensive 3d printing pen including 2 of the kohler command fuel pumps. milage may vary but it's a handy tool for some situations. my day job is small engines. I prefer using new parts but sometimes you have to make do. I'll be watching. you only really need the crazy ring if you mess up the angle. hokey as the design is it works and doesn't leak the have went to those type pump fittings on all replacement pumps including the ones for the old k series. the casting of the sleeves into the valve cover was because folks were losing the shoulder bolts and using normal bolts and breaking the valve covers.
Yeah I've taken a lot of heat for not patching up the old pump. I wonder how much crap I would have gotten for not replacing the pump if I had patched the old one together. Hard to say I guess...
@@WatchWesWork Everyone has their own opinion about what you should and shouldn't do. and what they would do diffrently. With that check valve out I would have only tried to fix it if i couldn't get a replacement. Everybody has opinions but your the one turning the wrenches. You fixed the problem it works now and you don't need to worry about the old pump failing and having the same problem again. so solid repair and onto the next adventure
Why are we watching these videos?
Because you’re a real live mechanic who makes mistakes and is man enough to show them!
JB weld the poppet valve in place, and keep it as a spare. It might last longer then a new one.
Wow.. my John Deere zero turn has this same problem. Wander if it is the same fix. Thanks for sharing Mr Wes. God bless.
You sprayed that brake clean, and no lie, I could smell it. Ahhhh that beautiful smell
You do excellent work West. Forget the trolls and do your thing. Any monkey can take anything apart, putting it back together correctly sets us apart from the monkeys.
Thank you for helping us non mechanics fix things.
I am new subscriber and just wanted to throw you my thoughts and support. You are honest and intelligent and you just are making videos about what you like to do.and hoPe maybe to help others. I enjoy watching them and like your down to earth and refreshing style. Do keep it up! As to the whiners, F’ ‘em !!. Never forget this is your channel and you run it the way YOU like, showing content the way YOU WANT. Keep up the great work, and one more thing your channels growth says it all!! Youre doing it right
It's good to see you back in your office. What happened to the 2 live feeds ? Thanks for your time and effort in making videos .you make them enjoyable and interesting to watch.
I don't have enough upload speed here to do it currently. I just deleted them since they were a mess. I'll try again some day.
18:20 - I did exactly the same thing when I was replacing the fuel pump on my Simplicity mower with the Kohler engine.
Oh man Wes, get rid of that Koehler pump & convert it to a Briggs vacuum operated pump. Cheaper reliable pump & won't fill crank case with gas when diaphragm fails. Lots of videos on that new Utubey thing, maybe you've heard of it. Love watching you work
Seeing the poppet valve was lifting up, some JB Weld after a good cleaning, and some roughing up would keep the valve in place.
Good info here. After viewing the video, I would be tempted to just use an inline squeeze bulb to prime the fuel line. Save the old assembly and glue in the poppet with some Right Stuff just for having a spare around
I like the Right Stuff, but I don't think any RTV silicone can stand up to gasoline. Some have suggested melting the rim of the plastic to deform it around the poppet valve. I think that's a viable solution.
Yeah I agree. It needs a touch with a plastic welder. Flat-tip attachment around the rim. It could definitely be "re-engineered" to work.
@@WatchWesWork Or replace with a vacuum type fuel pump or maybe a small inline electric pump. Either would probably be a good bit cheaper than OEM.
Cub Cadet was originally an International-Harvester Brand. After the Navistar split, it remained an International brand. They have a good following. I have heard that Kohler Korea builds engines from sub-assemblies sourced from other vendors. Kohler began life as a German plumbing consortium, making every thing from boilers to faucets to tubs, sinks, and the like. They appear to pair up well with Korea and not PRC. But, that's just my 2¢, spend it well.
And there you are, Wes, working on a Cub Cadet wearing a John Deere hat.
Hey Wes, I had a similar problem with a single cylinder Kohler with a mechanical fuel pump but in my case it was a cheap aftermarket pump and the plastic kept distorting so the check valves wouldn’t seal but the diaphragm was fine, after 3 pumps failing the same way in short order I found some 1/4” in line barbed checks which I installed on the suction and outlet lines... so far no more problems, you may want to give it a try if that new pump fails you down the road. Love the videos, keep it up!
Had a Cub Cadet w/Kawasaki 17.5 up motor, best running,most reliable rider ever ownwed!
that's one hell of a battery you've got there!
That diaphragm looks like a Holley accelerator pump diaphragm. The plastic didn't creep, it warped and if you want to get more technical, it suffered from core shift. And you didn't show us where you got your tools from, so now I don't know how to fix my stuff.
RUclips should only allow good comments to you as I am sure you get your share of crazies. You have to remember Milleniums grew up in daycare and video games and Facebook.
Very weird that the engine wouldn’t start off the fuel that was already in the carburetor bowl even with the old pump. It should’ve started regardless, assuming the bowl is full at the time it was shut down last. That mower is a catch, rarely see the twin command drive shaft cubs anymore. I got 3 at my shop but they are the single cylinder commands. I’ve sold most of the parts off them to date. Extremely reliable and durable mowers!
in case you see this, i had a twin cylinder kohler command 20 that won't start - thought valves might be out of adjustment, but when I took the valve covers off there's no set screw and the plate that contacts the valve is curved so it doesn't look like the valves are adjustable. Any ideas?
@@jeremy888ferris7 the valves aren’t adjustable, they are hydraulic lifters on those engines. Even some of the single cylinder ones was hydraulic but a few first gens were solid lifters. However yours is only a hydraulic lifter system being a Kohler command. What issue are you having?
I feel your pain. Just did a ignition replacement and you just can't buy one coil...oh no you've got to buy a new set and strip some wires...
I had a poulan- pro that did the same thing. It had one of the pulse type fuel pump mounted high up on the engine. What was happening was the gas tank was under the seat, so the outlet from the tank was a lot lower than the fuel pump, so when it sat for a while the gas in the hose would run back down the hose so it took a lot of cranking to get the gas back up to the pump to start the motor. An in line check valve up close to the fuel pump solved the problem.
Love your videos thank you I'm old but always enjoy your videos thank you
My coworker has the same issue with a cub but a vacuum fuel pump. thought it had a check somewhere in it but never got around to checking it out. Now that I'm thinking about it my cub has the same issue but i have used it since last fall.
I know the vacuum or impulse pumps on the Briggs engines have little rubber flaps that act as valves. The rubber gets hard and won't seal and that's all she wrote. But the new ones are really cheap.
Been watching your videos for a little while thought I’d go back and watch some older ones-I think it would be funny if you got those beer goggles/glasses and tried doing a little task like this while wearing them 😂😂😂😂
That pump is the same idea as the transfer lift pump on my Cat D4B. Has those type valves but the housing is metal.
It's starting to seem lately like half the content RUclipsrs are making is in response to negative comments.
After the suction stroke the pressure stroke and the check valve on the inlet suction is letting the fuel just go back to the tank it's basically just pushing and pulling fuel back and forth instead of sending proper pressure and volume to the carb if it was just the suction check valve is the problem you can get a inline check valve and put in the line on the inlet of the pu6
In a pinch...you might use a small auto-matic center punch to raise a few burrs on the perimeter of those 2 poppet valve...might hold them in for …..another week..?
Life saver! Im defiantly trying this i will get back to you if it works for me!! Need to get mine running and sold!!!!
Hi Wes i was saying to myself the carb is dirty or the fuel we get these days has taken a toll on things .... Great video and nice job ... Thanks !!!!
Well the ethanol fuel probably isn't helping the plastic housing of the fuel pump. That stuff eats everything.
@@WatchWesWork ethanol swells the Jeep Wrangler TJ and early JK check valves in the gas tank causing overflow issues. You have to remove them and file them down, or buy a new tank with a vavle that will swell :)
I'm a little envious of the power steering - but for my old S10 pickup!
s&k tools...big money. Enjoying these videos, thanks
I don't think they are too bad.
@@WatchWesWork I have some myself. Top notch tools
You can convert it over to a vacuum pump.. gotta fabricate a steel cover w a breather hose nozzle and bolt it to the fuel pump mount. Run a hose to briggs fuel pump and line in w fuel line to carb. Mount it to engine shroud.
Sil-glyde rocks, My tube looks just like yours. LOL
Works excellent on dirt-bike fork-seals as well. Way slipperier than petro or lithium grease.
My Napa store sells a larger tube that's about twice the size of the one in the video. When I saw it I couldn't get the money out of my pocket fast enough!
What about melting plastic around the popets valves??
Can’t wait tell one comes to shop so I can play with it a little
Please help. What tool did you use to connect the fuel Hoses to the fuel pump. Please provide a detailed description of the specialty tool. David Groh
Easy on the starter, they don't like long cranks - Heat build up. Use starting fluid to prime until you can get time to fix it.
Don't worriecwhat others think ... you do axgreat job . Its easy to judge one behind the scenes.
The sacrilidge wearing a deere hat while extolling the virtues of a cub cadet.
I haven't laughed in A long time and you're dog made me happy
I have a 17.5 horse Command in a John Deere L110 (2003). Had it 2 years and replaced 2 fuel pumps. Good engine, but takes forever to tart.
Awesome. I just bought me a brand new club cadet . I love it.
Good video but you never followed through with an update as to how it starts after setting a few days? I currently have that same engine with an electric fuel pump which eliminates all of the possible issues you mentioned and it still starts hard after just a few days.
if your fuel tank cap has a plugged vent or a fuel filter is plugged or a kinked line they will create enough vacuum to pull that poppet out. seen that many times. also seen fuel tanks collapsed from a plugged cap vent. good to check the whole system when ya have a problem.
That's an interesting though. However, back in the first video on this machine we replaced the fuel lines and filter (which were falling apart). I also pulled some fuel through the lines with a vacuum pump. I know that is not the issue.
They forgot to tell you about the special tool that you needed to install the special tool.
😅😅😅😎
I would probably have roughed both ODs of the valve housings and used a little JB Weld to hold them place. If I encounter the problem that is what I will try.
Seat looks like my JD.... keeps out the rain water....you use the same sayings as Eric at SMA, I'm a new viewer and like your channel..
I’m going to put a klick- knack fuel pump on my Koehler vertical 20 hp. engine I have replaced the vacuum fuel pump three times and it still acts just like you said. Let it set and it will not start. I assume there is vacuum in the engine when cranking?
I've got a zero turn cub cadet that runs perfect starts up when you get it hot and park cut it off get back on it will not turn to start at all turns over fine but won't start when it cools down and starts right back up
What is your opinion on the aftermarket fuel pumps and carburetors?
My Dad just gave me a series 2000 with less than 300 hours thats been sitting for 10 years. It won’t start and I suspect it needs a new pump and maybe a carb. Not sure if worth spending extra on OEM or consider aftermarket.
You said you can't peen the plastic to hold the gizmo in place but have you considered using a wood burning tool to "peen" it with heat?
It did not occur to me at the time, but several folks have suggested it and I think it would work for a while.
Would there have been a way to put a inline check valve to fix it or a must replace fix?
Good job Wes!
The most stunned dog award goes to Maxx
Wonder if a 2 psi electric pump would work. The 3208 had the fd620d Kawasaki and had an electric pump by the tank
I wonder if you could have plastic welded (melt) material over the poppet to hold it in place.
I have a 1000 series Cub cadet. When I tried starting. Fluid leaks out of the front end. Is this something to do with fuel line?