Cub Cadet / Kohler Command - Hard Start after Sitting
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- My Cub Cadet 3186 is very hard to start after it sits for a few days. Let's take a look at the fuel system and see if we can fix it.
Other videos about this Cub Cadet:
• Cub Cadet HDS 3185 - W...
• Cub Cadet HDS 3186? - ...
If you are interested in anything I used in the video...
Fuel pump: amzn.to/2lDFxGd
Hose grip pliers: amzn.to/2mal8ZJ
Sil Glyde Lube: amzn.to/2lI84KO
Pliers for the constant tension clamps: amzn.to/2lI9BR4
Do you have Corn gas.?
What year is this lawn tractor? I have a 2005 LT1046 with a 23hp Kohler Command
I'm late to this party but good work! Just really curious, wonder what some JB Weld would do to keeping those stuck in there?
Ordered those hose-grip pliers, very nice!
Dad would have watched you videos and said, _"He's got more specialty tools than Carter's got liver pills!!"_ Course, he was an old farmer, every stray screw, bolt, washer and nut he ever came across went into a coffee can or mason jar. It took him 3 hours to match a replacement bolt, washer and nut, but he never spent a dime on one in his life! Drove me nuts. He passed last year, I've got all those cans and jars on the bench. I don't ever use 'em, but they're there.....
Hey Wes. Really enjoy your videos cuz of your calming way of explaining things. For the fix, another route can be adding an external check-valve in-line with the fuel pump. Not a "legit" fix per se but should be less money and time. Cheers
I was thinking the same thing! Something like a squeeze bulb like you would have on the gas tank of a boat with an outboard motor.
I have actually ran into that on a factory briggs vanguard engine just past the fuel pump there was a check valve entirely in the 1/4" line to the carb not just one with barbed fittings but actually shoved about an inch up the line and held in place with a crimp around the line.
I had a Suzuki sj410 . That keep struggling with fuel starvation .
Eventually I took off the fuel pump and stripped it .
It had “ plastic” one way valves inside .
Held in place by rubber rivets .
No service parts available.
So had a smoke and a coffee .
I substituted the rubber rivets with stainless steel screws and nuts . With a dab of
Threadlock I had available.
It worked . Never had any issues with it after .
So when the say no serviceable parts . There is always a way .
Love your videos . Great content as always .
Kind regards Martin UK .
That dog is doing good work. Sure it was a caterpillar this time...but next time it might be a tiger or hyena, and then what!? Nice video.
Or maybe two caterpillars...
In the remote CA canyon where I lived, rattlesnakes often brought attention from the dogs. They don't like them at all! How my two large dogs never got bit I don't know. Usually, though, the dogs would make enough of a racket, alerting us that we needed to come quick. Usually when a snake realizes they are in trouble (idiot dogs not backing down) and they have options for escaping or hiding, they don't coil, but flee. They can't strike when fleeing through vines or thick brush, which never stops a determined dog. I think we just lucked out that neither of them were bit.
@@siskokidd Well you can keep those rattlers! No thanks!
@@siskokidd b6p
Well, it isn't the problem I'm having, but you captured my attention so I watched and enjoyed the whole video. Yep, everything you said made sense except that you forgot the part about snap ring, snapping you in the back of finger then hitting you in the tooth. Snap rings are more apt to hit the tooth than the eye. This was a great video. Thanks for the chuckle.
As you stated, the snap ring is useless. Hose pliers worked well as you show. I expect vise grips would also work.
The engine starts up so easily when it has fuel. What a difference.
Dave.
You just need something that can push on the little tabs. A snap ring is indeed useless.
I would have used "cool" soldering iron to roll some plastic over top of the popper valve. So when the plastic heats up it won't be a bigger hole.
JB weld the poppet valve in place, and keep it as a spare. It might last longer then a new one.
They forgot to tell you about the special tool that you needed to install the special tool.
😅😅😅😎
My coworker has the same issue with a cub but a vacuum fuel pump. thought it had a check somewhere in it but never got around to checking it out. Now that I'm thinking about it my cub has the same issue but i have used it since last fall.
I know the vacuum or impulse pumps on the Briggs engines have little rubber flaps that act as valves. The rubber gets hard and won't seal and that's all she wrote. But the new ones are really cheap.
What about melting plastic around the popets valves??
Can’t wait tell one comes to shop so I can play with it a little
You said you can't peen the plastic to hold the gizmo in place but have you considered using a wood burning tool to "peen" it with heat?
It did not occur to me at the time, but several folks have suggested it and I think it would work for a while.
Could you use a plastic welder? Like a soldering iron aka plastic welder to force the little pop in socket piece that wants to fall out.. permanent ? Anyway yes new part is the answer …
Hey Wes, I googled the baffle for cub cadet they are available just need to in put the spec to get the right one. About 75 bucks from what I saw, you need to do THIS, I have OCD, it’s bothering me that it’s missing. JK.
I do. It doesn't spit grass out right without it.
Being super cheap I probably would have added an inline check valve to the fuel line before the pump (as long as it's on my own stuff:)
I hear you there. I contemplated using some glue or something to fix it. But this is probably better.
I have the same engine on my '97 Timberking Sawmill. Never been an easy starting engine. Great once it warms up. Not an awesome design from Kohler, IMO.
Ahh check valve. Went on my sump pump. Plumber explained that to me when he replaced mine
Cheers for the video bro.
That non-flammable brakekleen is no good, doesn't have the right sound when you first shake it on screen. Looking forward to the next video: hardening your gutter downspouts😀
Yeah my driving skills are a bit lacking.
put a plate over the big hole and put a briggs pump on it... way way cheaper ...or electric off a switched feed.
Nice job.
There are a web site that you can get a kit for that pump for around $15.00
so how much for a small electric fuel pump, and just by pass to mechanical one?
couldnt you add a very flat clamp and screw that in ? maybe add small rampa sockets to have proper threads? should be enough "meat" there for at least 5mm or something like that? (I am absolutely no mechanic, so I assume this is a stupid idea for some reason)
Don’t change you MO for one bad comment. When there’s 16 bolts to remove, show the first and the last .....then tell the the naysayers to loop that 14 times if they prefer🤪 Your videos are great,
Your "down to Earth " attitude while addressing problems is fantastic. Loving your channel thus far!!
Your videos are very detailed actually, I can repair certain things just by watching you do them. One day I should send you a video on how to remove a Cataract!! Doc Mike USN
Don’t worry about those jerks who give you grief about your videos. At least you are having a go at it while they play with their phones. Great content keep up the good work.
Use a soldering iron to carefully melt the plastic against and over the valve insert at several places.
That diaphragm looks like a Holley accelerator pump diaphragm. The plastic didn't creep, it warped and if you want to get more technical, it suffered from core shift. And you didn't show us where you got your tools from, so now I don't know how to fix my stuff.
RUclips should only allow good comments to you as I am sure you get your share of crazies. You have to remember Milleniums grew up in daycare and video games and Facebook.
I had a guy give me a mower just like that except mine has the Briggs V-twin and he told me the engine was blown. I went and picked it up for the heck of it didn’t really want it but I’m glad I did. I drug it up on the trailer and brought it home I poured some gas in it and try to start it and it started and ran really rough and wouldn’t run much faster than an idle While missing and stumbling and smoking black. A snap the breather box apart and the air filter was completely stopped up as soon as I left the air filter out the engine revved up and smoothed out. I change the oil and put a new air filter in it and it runs great but it needs a stator For the charging system. The biggest problem I have now is I can’t get it to mow worth a shit. I sharpened the blades that were on it and it didn’t make any difference so I put a new set of blades on it Still very little. The deck has two small rust holes in it but I don’t see how that would affect it much. The clutch doesn’t seem to be slipping at least until the battery gets weak the belt looks good the thing has me stumped. You have to mow the yard twice with it to get it to cut everything.
Did you check deck / shaft bearings and the shafts themselves ?
Even if they're not making noise they can cause that problem.
Also check the pulley surfaces for rubber build up.
Take a cone stone hone on a dremmel tool and lightly rough up the belt surface area on the pulleys.
Most likely the belt is slipping or it's a combination of both of those issues.
Also install a new belt.
NOT a Chinese after market.
Sometimes NAPA stocks a belt that'll work.
They had a really good quality Gates belt that worked perfectly for my 1972 Wheel Horse Commander I had back in 2013.
I gave it to a very good friend of my Wife's from her Church when we moved from our house to an apartment due my health issues and could no longer work full time.
I have 800 hours training from a vocational school on small engines and the items they're used on including lawn tractors.
Plus several decades experience repairing them both plus a whole lotta other stuff.
I love the old saying.
If ya want it done right, do it yourself.
I've got 5 other diplomas in mechanical arts as well including Welding Technology that included reading welding blueprints and actually drawing up said blueprints.
Ya should never stop learning till your 6 feet under as far as I'm concerned.
I've got a 2004 horizontal command that will be getting a new fuel pump now. The long cranking is making sense. Mine has the crankcase version. The fuel pump has 4 hoses going into it. I keep a can of spray silicone on the shelf, great for spritzing hoses before you push them back on, coating spark plug boots etc. I'll have to pick up some sil-glyde.
It's starting to seem lately like half the content RUclipsrs are making is in response to negative comments.
And there you are, Wes, working on a Cub Cadet wearing a John Deere hat.
In a pinch...you might use a small auto-matic center punch to raise a few burrs on the perimeter of those 2 poppet valve...might hold them in for …..another week..?
Very weird that the engine wouldn’t start off the fuel that was already in the carburetor bowl even with the old pump. It should’ve started regardless, assuming the bowl is full at the time it was shut down last. That mower is a catch, rarely see the twin command drive shaft cubs anymore. I got 3 at my shop but they are the single cylinder commands. I’ve sold most of the parts off them to date. Extremely reliable and durable mowers!
in case you see this, i had a twin cylinder kohler command 20 that won't start - thought valves might be out of adjustment, but when I took the valve covers off there's no set screw and the plate that contacts the valve is curved so it doesn't look like the valves are adjustable. Any ideas?
@@jeremy888ferris7 the valves aren’t adjustable, they are hydraulic lifters on those engines. Even some of the single cylinder ones was hydraulic but a few first gens were solid lifters. However yours is only a hydraulic lifter system being a Kohler command. What issue are you having?
Loved the ‘everything causes cancer in California!’ Thank them for their ridiculous C.A.R.B.-Compliant gas cans too! That’s when Blitz starting make Shitz gas cans.
You've definitely been watching south main auto 😂😂
Do away with that pump and put an inexpensive vacuum operated pulse pump on it. About $15.00 or less. Thanks for the video. Also you should check out the needle and seat in the carb as there should have been enough fuel in it to start the engine. Might be leaking down. Check the oil and smell for gas in the oil. Thanks
ditto, check for gas in the oil.
18:20 - I did exactly the same thing when I was replacing the fuel pump on my Simplicity mower with the Kohler engine.
You sprayed that brake clean, and no lie, I could smell it. Ahhhh that beautiful smell
I would have popped in the valve then melt slightly the plastic with a soldering gun to hold it in place.
my same thought.
My Kohler had 2 of these pumps fain within 12 months. The first time, I spent the $70 for the OEM pump. The 2nd time, I said screw it and installed an electric pulse pump in its place for only about $20. No issues since.
Great video, very well done. Never seen a fuel pump design like that before.
Another Video from Mustie2 !! Or Mustie1 jr?
It's good to see you back in your office. What happened to the 2 live feeds ? Thanks for your time and effort in making videos .you make them enjoyable and interesting to watch.
I don't have enough upload speed here to do it currently. I just deleted them since they were a mess. I'll try again some day.
I used to have a tractor like that except for it had the snow plow. Verry reliable tractor we had it untill 5 years ago I grew up with that tractor and when your a dumb ass I mean kid you do stupid things and that tractor went through hell and back. If your ever interested in selling please let me know I have been looking for one like that. Except for mine had the Kawasaki engine in it and not the kohler.
Guess I am cheaper then you . Would have put a check valve in the line.
That would have solved one part of the problem, but I think the pump would still have been weak.
My dealer's price was 170.00 out the door, 12/2023 for the stock Kohler fuel pump and valve cover. The conversion to a Briggs fuel pump was 25.00 for the pump and 2.00 for a pipe plug at my local lawn mower shop. I've never had a positive experience parts wise at Amazon, so I didn't even look there. Prices of parts and pieces aren't what they used to be. My moan and groan for the day!!!
I would have replace that pump with an electric pump for about 1/2 the cost.
Carter seems to be the only ones that last.
Hi Wes i was saying to myself the carb is dirty or the fuel we get these days has taken a toll on things .... Great video and nice job ... Thanks !!!!
Well the ethanol fuel probably isn't helping the plastic housing of the fuel pump. That stuff eats everything.
@@WatchWesWork ethanol swells the Jeep Wrangler TJ and early JK check valves in the gas tank causing overflow issues. You have to remove them and file them down, or buy a new tank with a vavle that will swell :)
That pump is the same idea as the transfer lift pump on my Cat D4B. Has those type valves but the housing is metal.
As the sole member of the Huffel puflin Lawn Care Service, do you feel under valued??? No wait...sorry WWW I am on my 5 binge watch of your channel..I can't seem to stop...I not sure what it is...maybe it's the dog...
that's one hell of a battery you've got there!
I am new subscriber and just wanted to throw you my thoughts and support. You are honest and intelligent and you just are making videos about what you like to do.and hoPe maybe to help others. I enjoy watching them and like your down to earth and refreshing style. Do keep it up! As to the whiners, F’ ‘em !!. Never forget this is your channel and you run it the way YOU like, showing content the way YOU WANT. Keep up the great work, and one more thing your channels growth says it all!! Youre doing it right
Hi Wes I know I'm commenting on a rather old video, just thinking rather than pay $75. For a plastic fuel pump that will need replacing again, I would buy a generic electric fuel pump and just abandon the old system in place.
What is your opinion on the aftermarket fuel pumps and carburetors?
My Dad just gave me a series 2000 with less than 300 hours thats been sitting for 10 years. It won’t start and I suspect it needs a new pump and maybe a carb. Not sure if worth spending extra on OEM or consider aftermarket.
7:35 minutes of PURE VIEWING BLISS.!.! Best 4 machine screw removal I'VE EVER SEEN.! Hands Down, and 2 BIG THUMBS UP. 5 ***** TO BOOT.! Honestly I agree with all the others who LOOK Forward to your TIME SHARING...! WHATarethe 4 YELLOW CAPS for at the EPILOGUE/OUTRO..?.? And what about PLASTIC WELDING, build up a retaining rim.?.? I remember something about it for motorcycle fairings, etc..? And next time put the "C"clip in a vise.?.? Now that I've had 7 month's to figger it out, smile..AHHH, Fa story Specs, ahhhhhh, fine, fine, fine.
Try a Hustler Zero Turn Mower with a Kawasaki engine. You'll never go back to a steering wheel mower!
I'm the opposite. I'll give guys grief for showing in real time removing bolts. Yeah, I get the idea already.... Let's get to the repairing! 😁
Plastic.... Yup ask paccar and Detroit how well that's working on their stupid quick fittings... I wait Mercedes Benz n VW about plastic parts! 🤣
IMO...you should be listening less to peoples criticism.. we aren't paying you...our privilege what you let us watch....quit worrying about the idiots!
Wonder if a 2 psi electric pump would work. The 3208 had the fd620d Kawasaki and had an electric pump by the tank
I will never buy a cub cadet again, mine is absolutely junk!!! My cheap Mtd lasted 12 years no problem. I could’ve bought 3 of them for the $ of that crap cub
Just came across this video and man your cracking me up. "Everything causes cancer in california" you got that one right for sure. Im not going to lie though, I skipped ahead of you taking out those bolts.
Keep up the good work and dont worry too much about asshole's and thier comments.
@Wes you should do/ show whatever you want Ot is your shop, labor and channel. If people want to complain then how about they make their own. We all are guests and we enjoy you being you.
Thanks for sharing Wes alway good 👍🇦🇺🚜
I would probably have roughed both ODs of the valve housings and used a little JB Weld to hold them place. If I encounter the problem that is what I will try.
Wifely needs to understand when Das husband is mowing he is not making money for her next shopping trip. Nothing pains me more than going shopping with a woman. When younger I would have palpitations from my heart malfunctioning until I just could not abide it any more.
Seat looks like my JD.... keeps out the rain water....you use the same sayings as Eric at SMA, I'm a new viewer and like your channel..
Crickets chirpin sounds like a cool breeze evening......to have to deal with a stupid snap ring.
If only there was some sort of tool for the snap ring, a snap ring tool if you would. Maybe this yet to be invented, and definitely not currently in your toolbox, snap ring tool could be use to quickly and efficiently apply the snap ring... Bet you could sell hundreds of thousands of these snap ring tools as well. I know, maybe use those holes in the snap ring as the interface between the snap ring and this new tool.
Or maybe malicious compliance is an Iowa thing.
had same problem on one, added inline check valve at pump inlet for less than $10, you could also dimple the plastic around that valve with a hot iron the lock it in place
Hmm. I did not think of melting the plastic. That's a good idea. I was looking around for a wood screw to jam in there...
I also used a soldering gun to melt around my check valves to seal/stake them in place.
@@WatchWesWork Could you weld it? ;^{ )
#^$^#>×&#;# damnit youtube, I don't speak spanish!!!! Stop showing ads in spanish!!!!
No offense or anything Wes but that guy may have also just been having a bad day and like lit into you for something that really wasn't that big of a deal, I would have been like okay why don't you like chill out right? This is RUclips mind you we're not here in person
I got a package of 8 chocolate covered mini donuts from the convenience store. Under the flap next to the barcode, it said "This product may contain chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm."
I thought, well thats even better
I know this is an old video but it would have been so easy to fix at zero cost by "heat peening" the plastic housing with a soldering iron. Save yourself 75 bucks next time eh?
I tested battery, solenoid and starter all checked out. Changed spark plug, air and fuel filter, examined and checked fuel line, cleaned carburetor and still just cranks but won’t start
Generaly a very good engine. I had a 18hp V twin on a 2042 Cub. Its now my m8's driveway grader tractor. Still going strong. Next is ballon quad tyres for traction. Great vid, been watching you for awhile. Just joined hopped on your Bus.
You We'll get people that criticize all the time just Ignore them let them do their own thing Worse than they can ever do let's start A-war in the comments That can't really affect you not that I know about And by the way you do U and UBU only it's only you Tube can't shut you down you just as long as you don't have any bad music or swear they can't a swear they can't bother you Just remember people always criticize you don't let them make you have a bad day PS have watched a lot worse of videos before it's well they don't even show anything I've teared down a is show anything I've taken down a putting it back together then only when showing they don't even show how to fix itDon't let the question criticism do you all have a good evening or what is have a good evening or what night whatever it is there and you do your own and you do your own thing
That dog’ll hunt!
Thank god it's not a Kholer courage motor.
These aren't great either. My wife's uncle had to replace a cam in his. Several teeth stripped off the gear.
Maybe the fuel line is kinked?
Ahh- put it on CL maybe some Schlepp will buy it...
Easy on the starter, they don't like long cranks - Heat build up. Use starting fluid to prime until you can get time to fix it.
Good info here. After viewing the video, I would be tempted to just use an inline squeeze bulb to prime the fuel line. Save the old assembly and glue in the poppet with some Right Stuff just for having a spare around
I like the Right Stuff, but I don't think any RTV silicone can stand up to gasoline. Some have suggested melting the rim of the plastic to deform it around the poppet valve. I think that's a viable solution.
Yeah I agree. It needs a touch with a plastic welder. Flat-tip attachment around the rim. It could definitely be "re-engineered" to work.
@@WatchWesWork Or replace with a vacuum type fuel pump or maybe a small inline electric pump. Either would probably be a good bit cheaper than OEM.
Wow.. my John Deere zero turn has this same problem. Wander if it is the same fix. Thanks for sharing Mr Wes. God bless.
You can buy this pump on ebay for $30. As simple as the design is; I bet the aftermarket pump still works fine.
I'm a little envious of the power steering - but for my old S10 pickup!
Good video but you never followed through with an update as to how it starts after setting a few days? I currently have that same engine with an electric fuel pump which eliminates all of the possible issues you mentioned and it still starts hard after just a few days.
It's pretty dumb to me , WHY do a PieceMeal video,Like you doing a movie series, to come back next or next month to see the outcome!!!
spray wd 40 into the cyls. pop off the plug hles w/ finger while spin motor. plugs in , start..,,fuel pump plus floats...wooooo!
Terrell fixes all has a video on how to by pass the mechanical fuel pump and make it into a Paul's pump on that tractor check his RUclips channel out out good video highly recommend Terrell Fixes all Is Terrell fixes all also has funny video skits in the beginning of the video and in the end
wondered why you didn't just put a inline check valve for couple bucks instead of 75 dollar part
After the suction stroke the pressure stroke and the check valve on the inlet suction is letting the fuel just go back to the tank it's basically just pushing and pulling fuel back and forth instead of sending proper pressure and volume to the carb if it was just the suction check valve is the problem you can get a inline check valve and put in the line on the inlet of the pu6
I have a 1000 series Cub cadet. When I tried starting. Fluid leaks out of the front end. Is this something to do with fuel line?
Ok, maybe a stupid question, but... could a person just keep the same fuel pump and put an inline check valve in the fuel line?
Great diagnosis description and repair.Enjoy your vid's Wes.
Like that you always use the proper tool or of the proper tool isnt good enough something better. (Sockets for driving seals etc is absolutely fine as long as they are the right size).
but... the gory details of how you figured it out are the most useful details!
Heh. Long story short, it would not start so I took the pump apart and found the poppet valve had vibrated out of the bore. Pretty much exactly like I did in the video except I didn't know what I was looking for.
My lawn tractor being even crank unless I'm sitting on it. Some safety Bs switch or what not. Commie engineers