Hot Mud MAY FAIL if You Make This Mistake. That Kilted Guy Drywall School
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- This simple mistake could cause your Fast Setting Joint Compound, aka Hot Mud, to FAIL. ✨www.thatkiltedguy.com✨ for links & more
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🟢 OTHER PLAYLISTS THAT CAN HELP YOU OUT
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You really are awesome. I am a hairdresser, but thanks to you I am pretty damn good at drywall repairs. Thanks
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Haha! I'm a barber/stylist and just found this channel! I made the mistake of using the mesh without hot mud so about to start over and fix all this mess I have caused 😢 but at least now I know why its all cracked now
1. Thank you for your service
2.Love your shirt!!
3.Great verbal and visual info, much appreciation!!!
Awesome shirt! Wish more people would realize that. Thanks for the tips!
How's this for going old school: I still use the brown bag Durabond every once in a while. Maybe two bags a year. The stuff that literally hardens like a rock.
The places I use it are in areas where taping is a pain, like when fixing cracks in old textured ceilings. I only use it as a bottom coat and very sparingly. I also use it to fill areas to bring up a patch to wall levels for those times when there's a big difference in depth between the patch and the old wall. Because it's literally rock-like, it's great for filling deep and wide gaps where taping is difficult. It's especially helpful in old homes with plastered walls.
Home Depot and Lowes have discontinued it. Menards still sells it. Glad they do because it has saved me a lot of time.
Ace hardware still carries it as well.
Great tips. Thanks for saving me headaches in the future. 👍🏻
Beautiful demonstration. Thanks.
Loved your video AND your shirt. Just the right message all the way around!
(Oh, and I've been tape 'n bedding for a long time, and I can attest to your recommendations. Final coat = regular mud.)
Thanks Pops, I really appreciate you and all your knowledge 🙏🏽 🙌🏽 💯 ❤️ Alteady passed along your channel to my family 🥰
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
This is good info. I'm a painter who does the occasional taping or popcorn removal job. I've started using 210 on larger jobs rather than 90 just so I don't have to worry so much about a full bag setting up on me before I can use it up. I think I'll probably switch back because I can see the 210 drying out in spots before it sets.
I'd also add that I usually start filling screws with hot mud once it starts to harden but before it becomes unusable, drying before setting shouldn't be an issue there.
Always greatly appreciate your videos and tips. Keep up the awesome work.
Glad you like them!
This explains the few times I have had paint just fall off some repairs I have done over the years.
Really good advice, thank you. I've worked with plaster and drywall since I was in my early 20s for my own remodel work and have used setting mud for my screws; no longer
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This is good information. Thank you sir.
The only time I use mesh tape is over the sides of outside corners. I use alot of fiberglass tape thanks to you.
I'm a painter, I love using 20 or 5 minute for touch ups and repairs.
Yep, depends on how big the fix is determines the time
I can barely get 5 mixed good before it sets up.
@@matthewotis3594yeah I need at least 3 just to get it mixed up and looking creamy
Thanks for the info! I think I knew instinctively that ready mix mud was the wrong product for deep voids, but hated the dust, muss, and mixing of setting mud.
When my brother and I were looking at an old fixer-upper years ago (it was being “flipped”, I’m sure), the owner had a crew of day laborers patching large voids with buckets of All Purpose. I don’t know how many coats he’d applied, but the shrinkage cracks were huge. He was planning on hiding everything with paint
I just used this for a stubborn crack with mesh. So far, I am pleased with it. I hope it works, because it's a 14 ft wall. TY
I almost messed this project up, thanks to you all went well, thank you sir! I'm Subscribed.
Glad I could help!
Oh man so interesting. I had to re-do some ceiling tape joints because of some light cracking and couldn't figure out why.....now I think I just figured it out. Never again, last coat with all- purpose. Thanks!
If those joints were done in mesh tape and regular all purpose that would also explain it.
Thank you Sir.
good video. the w estpac light weight hot mud can be skimcoated thinner than 1/8 but you can't work it too much otherwise it can lose its bond. I've also had a few tiny spots fail when floating some ceilings when it bubbles and you don't skim it tight immediately
good tips, man i need to create a cheat sheet to consolidate all the info for drywalling , lots of potential "gotchas". I think I'll make a when to use/do what matrix.
very good information.
Use that 20-minute mud with PVA glue in the water. 25% for structural and less for not. Works like charm and delays drying before curing.
few things hot mud swells, most primers make hot mud swell so use a good hotmud sealer, you definitely need 2 coats of good primer to stop flash through. Learned all this the hard way.
I can't thank you enough for this info. I've literally googled with at least 7 different queries asking for an answer to why my hot mud wasn't setting up in some areas (but not everywhere) after several hours with nothing but useless results.
This was especially perplexing because I would always test to see if it had set yet by lightly applying pressure to one of the lap marks to see if it was hard yet. If it was, I'd proceed with scraping down the high points with my knife, only to see my knife make an awful gouge into the mud that didn't set up, ruining the coat.
Turns out I just didn't know that hot mud shouldn't be used for thin floating. Since learning this from you, I pretty much only use hot mud for pre-filling, taping, and occasionally on the first coat after tape.
Hot mud also sets up way slower over painted surfaces. That has bit me many times.
I use EZ Sand 45 for most cases and 20 when I'm pressed for time and only use it to fill gaps. I finish with USG Plus3 and it's perfect every time.
I love EZ sand, because I hate sanding 😂
Very informative! Good job! 👍👍
Thank you. Guy
USG recommends you only use paper tape for any tape and bedding. They also recommend you score the factory butt joints with a blade for better adhesion, but who does that? Every single time I have to repair old patches (not mine), its because the previous patches used hot mud that is just falling off the walls and ceilings with some scraping.
I actually like to use my hot mud unmixed on my tray until I start tapping. So i put water first, then hot mud, stir a little bit and then start tapping. Ill have some dry stuff and wet stuff in my tray the whole time as I am applying. My time to mix a tray is less than two minutes, It cures faster, then I just scrape with a 90 degree angle any imperfections once it hardens up, but before it begins to dry.
This is especially true when you go over existing hot mud with a thin layer and you go to sand it. The top layer kind of peels off the bottom layer and you end up with voids. Terrible situation because now you have to sand it basically down or go over it with all purpose.
thanks
Thank you for this video-Really helped me alot-“Welcome to all things Scottish! If it’s not Scottish, IT’S CRAP!!”😂
Hot mud ideal for initial applications but u gotta knock off the “snot “ prior to ur next coat. Repairs too.
Nice Video
I removed a painted popcorn ceiling. It WASN’T easy but it CAN be done. Not sure how many coats it had on it. Was reg. ceiling paint.
Thats odd because I use pro set 30 alot. I've tightly polished over joints that I have 1st and second coated with 30 min and have has zero issues on the finished product. I do for the most part do my final coat while doing patchwork with reg mud tho..
When i worked professionally as a finisher I preferred 90min for all but the top coat and inside corners. I did not know about a thickness requirement.
Be sure to OPEN THIS COMMENT for more info. 🟢 To access the links below, please open your browser and manually type in the link I show you. If I give you a clickable link, RUclips penalizes my channel. Thanks
The information below can be found on my website at ✨www.ThatKiltedGuy.com✨
☑️ DRYWALL COURSES- Sign up for our email list to be notified of future Drywall Courses you can take, AND we'll send you a discount offer each time we release a new course.
If you'd like to say thanks and show your support for all our help, ✨visit thatkiltedguy.com✨ for different ways you can do that.
🟢 FOR TOOL AND MATERIAL RECOMMENDATIONS, VISIT 🟢
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There's a lot more useful information there including blog articles, links, email list signup and more.
🟢 OTHER PLAYLISTS THAT CAN HELP YOU OUT
1- Drywall Taping and Mudding School
ruclips.net/video/S90GKnHJsrs/видео.html
2- My Best Drywall Mudding Tips
ruclips.net/video/Ax1D8tgZowg/видео.html
3- Wall and ceiling textures anyone can do
ruclips.net/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/видео.html
4- Skim Coating video playlist
ruclips.net/video/4T6x7wiP-aA/видео.html
5- Removing Popcorn Ceilings
ruclips.net/video/IkqCj0wFzwU/видео.html
6- Drywall Hanging Playlist
ruclips.net/video/N71arzPsDcQ/видео.html
7- All Natural ways to control Mosquitos and more
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Thanks Guy, blessings to you!
I have two little holes and I was going to use the DAP drywall patch repair did you get from Home Depot and I noticed those patches when they were installed in the patch even when it was on the wall where ever the hole was that that patch was covering you had a soft spot so I didn’t want to use what does patches so I have mash tape that is I guess 4 inches wide or 6 inches wide I’m not exactly sure so I Cook a piece of the tape mistake and put that over the whole I made it large enough to I thought there would not be a soft spot everything looks great but right in the middle where the mesh tape is covering right where the hole was the mud feel soft so that’s when I looked this up on RUclips and I watched your videos so if I use the 20 minute mud do you think I would be fine The hole is it a little larger than 2 inchs it’s just a break with always the drywall is soft not real everything else looks great I send it in between coats and I send it again yesterday and everything looks great it’s just soft where is that hole is
Whew, I’ve only really used hot mud to fill gaps, with mesh tape, and to build out bowed walls
Great video sir...all I buy is EZ sand 5 minutes to do patches because I get impatient waiting for it to dry..lol but for the most part I don't like using hot muds because I like to take my time 🙃
2 points to make, I had the same thoughts about EZ sand, but 1 thing I do to counter my concerns first of all when I use 45 or 90 and I want to speed up the setting time I use very warm water when mixing it works, for EZ sand 5 or 20 if I want to extend the setting time I use refrigerated cold water when I mix it, it allows you to not have to worry about hurrying, to do this allows you to take your time, sometimes I run out of the type I need, by using the different temperature water with the type that I have, I may not have to run back to the store right away.
I can't believe how hard durable and adhesive hot mud is.
I'm a hot mud junky. I could go on all day long on the benefits and value in a wide variety of applications.
like 👍 all your videos ✌
Proform brand is easier to so work with then Ez sand
I’m just doing DIY. I don’t understand if I have to do a flat light coat because is hard to sand(beginning of the video), how I’m gonna be able to do a tick coat to make it work? (What you said at the end of the video)
I have a 8ft x 16" ceiling patch that needs about 1/4 fill before the finish coat (textured swirl) Do I need to use a primer-bonding agent or does the 45m hot mud already have that built in? Thx for your vids!
It’s built in when used over raw drywall
Great video. U always use sheetrock 90 for first coat. My question is why do union guys hate hot mud and mesh tape so dam much?
Probably They’re taught to so they don’t know better
Great content as always. If i prime over hot mud will that help the paint stick to the wall better?
Always prime raw drywall
@That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement Hello, I just took down my popcorn texture in my garage. I also took down the tape as it was loose. So here is my plan. Screw any loose drywall boards, mesh tape, hot mud (2coats), plus 3, apply new texture(orange peel), prime then paint. Is that ok?? Is my order correct or is there something else I need to do?
@@SkyHawk2849That plan is perfect.
Director, can I use 90 to apply some thickness? Is it solid? Can I mix colors with it or on top of it? I want a material close to Venetian plaster. What do you advise me? Thank you for everything you provide.
؟😊
Thank you sir, this advice came at the perfect time. I have a ceiling I'm about ready for prime and paint in the morning. I did 2 coats of hot mud and one coat of all purpose. Have a couple small tweaks I would like to hit but was sitting here looking at a bag of 5 min hot mud, thinking if I skim it with that I will be good to go..then I saw this video. Now I'm thinking I will give it a light scrape, sand and prime ... then hit it with some dry dex to bring it to its final state. What do you think of this game plan?
It really depends on what it needs and I can’t tell you that from a text description. But I would definitely stay away from the hot mud as it’s not good for skim coating. You can learn a lot more in my new Drywall courses at www.DrywallAcademy.com
Thanks I will check out the course.
I used 90 for a patch 25x25 and 3 coats , will it show ? Lol
Maybe you can spray a thin coat with water to avoid drying faster than it sets. Or mix it wetter?
No that’s called re-tempering and they specifically tell you not to do that
If you have a huge dip or whatever in your drywall and all you have is All Purpose (Green Lid) if you instead of putting it on real deep in 1 coat, if you add smaller amounts in multiple coats will it still shrink and crack? LIke if you added that all purpose to that box mold you showed on the video but added all purpose in several coats would it still shrink and crack like that?
It’s less likely to but also much weaker in thick coats so fast setting is better
0 shrinkage is a good thing
If I use mesh tape and use hot mud for the first coat should I use plus 3 to do the next coat?
And how many coats should I do?
I can’t answer that with a text and anybody that tries may mislead you. Watch more of my videos. I have over 200 so search for the playlist that would help you. Thanks
Guy, I’ll give you a situation- I am painting a bedroom and will be repairing screw pops, minor scrapes, and small holes where screw anchors were. I have a small bag of Easy Sand 5, small tub of All Purpose Joint Compound (green), and a tub of Spackling Paste. Which one of those will give me best results?
It really depends on what you’re fixing exactly, and your skill level. Five minute can bite you in the butt if you’re not fast enough. It will literally set up in your pan before you get it on the wall if you’re over mix it or take too long to get the thickness right. Hot mud should only be used on fills deeper than 1/8 of an inch. Otherwise regular joint compound works on everything except deeper fills
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can you use hot mud to fill say large gaps between wall board in a ceiling of say where the corner cracked off when installing the board due to poor measurement?? If so how thick should you first application be??
Watch this- ruclips.net/video/vRKrSm2aHuQ/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
oops
Its concaved. We see it.
Question for you sir. I was repairing a ceiling using 20min and I applied a very light or skim coat over the repair. For some reason the 20min took forever to dry.....are u saying it took longer to dry because it was a skim coat vs a heavier coat? Thanks!
What I said was that if you put hot mud on really thin, it dries before it cures. If it’s a 20 minute hot mud, it needs 20 minutes to cure and if it dries before that, it doesn’t cure right. Hot mud can take much longer to set up over painted surfaces and non-porous surfaces.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Bingo.....it was a painted surface sure enough. I dont need a thick coat of mud for my next repair so after listening to you I believe I should use 45min and give it a day to dry completely. I watch many of your vids....thanks for the knowledge.
Good to know. Im in the middle of redoing a bath remodel i did 10yrs ago. Walls look perfect. Ceiling not so much All the joints have hairline cracks and where i had to reposition a recessed light the paper tape in one spot just completely let go and fell in the floor. The entire room was done with new sheetrock. 1/2" on walls and 1/4" over dry scraped popcorn on ceiling. All joints were finished with paper tape and 45min mud. I fixed one ceiling crack about 2 months after 1st remodel by adding some more screws along the joint and scraping out the old paper tape and used mesh tape and 45min mud again. It too has recracked.
I think i can fix the moved recessed light with mesh tape instead of paper and hot mud but this time finish with and all purpose. But im not sure the best way to approach the hairline cracks at the seams. Do i need to cut away the paper tape and go with mesh or just mesh over the top? Thanks in advance. Great videos!
Great info as usual. Does this apply to where the mud gets thin around the edges where you're feathering a patch?
Is it ok if you're going over with a texture done in all purpose?
Also, could you add a link to the 15 hot mud tips video to the description? Thanks Guy, you rock!!!
The feathered edges are fine, and yes you can go over it with the regular mud. I haven’t released the 15 tips video yet. Thanks
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Then the manufacturer's recommendation is confusing to me. It doesn't get any thinner than a feathered edge.. ?
I have to sand my life away. That’s the situation I’m in. I went a little too heavy and didn’t scrap off hard enough with knife. What sand grit do you recommend to help me out of this situation? Thank you
80 grit
I used 20 minute mud the other day in a bathroom…I came back the next day and the mud was still soft? What went wrong?
It could be old, or defective.
👍
You answered my question I was trying to figure out if hot mud just needed to set or needed to thoroughly dry before putting another coat on it. I’m not really sure how thick it can be applied. I’m trying to get it a half inch thick.
ruclips.net/video/vRKrSm2aHuQ/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Sometimes 20 minute mud means you have about 2 minutes to get it mixed then 2-5 minutes before you're dealing with a slimy rock :p
I just shot a video about 15 secrets about Hot mud And I explain why that happens sometimes
When use hot mud and meshed tape, do you completely hide the tape with first coat?
I seem to have trouble using meshed tape.
Yes
Good video Guy, thanks. I know you like politics. What are your thoughts on todays SCOTUS abortion ruling?
NOT good.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY It kicks it down to the state level from what little I know. As opposed to a mandated 100% ban across the US. Thanks for your service!
Are we united or divided today?
We seem to be heading toward divided
Five minutes mud is a waste it takes five minutes to mix
It’s only for pro’s. I can mix up a whole pan, spread it and clean it in that time but for most, use 45-90
Hot mud was good yesterday and today it’s not!
That's not what I said, maybe... watch the video....?
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I did. And I watched another on hot mud vs all purpose.
@@jr7003 ok. Well your comment doesn’t really make sense. All I said was this can fail if you use it wrong, not that it’s a bad product at all. Hope that clears it up.