As a retired DYI homeowner, I like how you combine clear and concise information, without turning it into a social event, while actually doing the work. Very much like on-the-job training in many industries. While I have seen lots of great drywall RUclips channels, it is my opinion that your instructional methodology is best suited for me. Thank you for the time and effort you put into educating people like me.
Great vid. 97% of people will never understand what it takes to get to this level of work. The guy I learned from, on my first day said “this is an art form most people can never appreciate”. Getting PERFECT walls is not for the faint of heart, glad you help people understand.
Pretty sure 97% of people don't want to do this type of work...it's 10% actual building and 90% ticky tack bullshit. People were building for thousands of years without these kinds of techniques...
Thank you for posting. Part of my work is re-flattening walls during remodels, and yes the customers can tell. They've lived in the home for years and appreciate when it's brought up to standards many in this comment section may not appreciate.
Hey there I'm a painter in Bellingham,wa. Thanks for the great video. I've found that most cracks that appear in drywall over time are from delamination at butt joints and large gaps not being prefilled. To fix them, I v-groove the effected areas, and fill the crevice with loctite power grab adhesive before doing the repair. This way the cracks won't reappear the way they would if they were just mudded over. Nice to see someone taking the time to do the prep that will ensure maximum life span of their work.
Yeah, helped...I have an upstairs that was done with a friend years ago, and he said not to worry about gaps, that they'll get filled when they mud. Big mistake. But I think I've found a solution with your video. Pre-fill with quick set. And V-notch seams. Remove Paper fuzzies. Thanks. 👍
Nothing compares to watching a pro as he explains what he's doing and why, plus some things to watch out for and how to avoid problems. Great video now I will go struggle to do a passable job. It won't be my first rodeo but I have never prefilled before so it should make this a little easier.
@@endoalley680 "Pro" is not short for "Rocket Scientist." It is, in fact, great to watch a professional at anything explain what they do and why, if it's drywall or rocket science, it's all gravy.
I've been recently v grooving my butt joints and on small jobs applying compound 20 sheetrock on my first coat , applying a fiberglass mesh tape. Again only on smaller jobs to help speed up the process. On all jobs v grooving your butts and applying prefill of any kind is a great choice. I don't think I'll be using durabond any time soon, that stuff is not sandable at any stage. Maybe for filling larger holes in plaster repair jobs. I give this guy credit, very confident and great overall working attitude. Great video. Cheers
Out in northern Utah, I always prefill but haven’t routinely v’d out the butt joints. Too often the butt joint has barely enough room to get the screws into the framing behind so cutting away some of the paper would lessen the holding power of the screw. Thanks for your videos. It is great to see how other drywall pros do it!
It’s a 16th of an inch your cutting off the edge that is furry and uneven ,,, I see what your saying , but only if the cut was too far in , as far as weakening, everybody has thoughts I’m not owning yours, I enjoy the think pool .. ps and I’ve been wrong many times in my life :)
OMG... I have been doing this for years and have been called every name in the book for doing it. I would rip up sheets of 7/16 OSB for my joints and get some of the flattest and smoothest joints that you have ever seen. I don't know if he is covering this or not but here is another little tip: do not put the screws in the adjoining edges until the second sheet has been installed. This greatly reduces the squish out that happens when screws are too close to the edges.
For me watching pro boarders is a treat, I did it for a short time, 2 of us, my partner was a pro, I was greener than lime green. But the two of us would board a 2000sq ft home in 8 hrs, partner would go back in the evening and tape the entire home, 40 yrs ago without all the cool tools they have now. But like I said , I really enjoy watching pro's work regardless of the job.
🙏🏼 amen, I agree with you! I learned from a pro & he and I could completely board a 1800-2200 square foot place in 8-10 hours! They were some stupid fn cottages too, needed like 30ft of scaffolding cuz of vaulted entrance/ceiling!
@@dillon7981 OK how many sheets does a 2000sq ft house take? I will tell you 145 sheets. I have been doing drywall since 1991. The most me and another man has ever hung, 2 of us was 119 sheets in 8 hrs. Back then we nailed everything. Now I have had a crew where we would go in and hang 179 sheets and tape it out in 9 hrs. You can't tell me nothing about drywall. I am Mr.Drywall. I have been in business for over 32 years. Haha blow that smoke somewhere else.
I am a DYIer and in the process of a full (to the studs) remodel of a bathroom. It has been a monster so far. 1955 home with multiple layers of plaster (actual concrete) and steel mesh to remove. There is not one level spot in the room when I started, but I have done the best I can to get it level and flat. BUT, I have some gaps and a few damaged areas (one where the cut out saw got away from me). I have watched at least 100 hours of video and THIS ONE actually address the things I want to know. Thank You! I just sat down from checking my screws, scraping any edges sticking up, cutting the edges of damaged areas and removing any loose drywall. Plan to do my prefill tomorrow!
I have a house from 1920, and the upstairs walls have a terrible texture on top of crumbling plaster. Definitely thinking of knocking the walls down to the studs, adding some plugs and insulation, and drywalling. Any words of advice?
I been doing this for the past 20 years and had so many debate with other guys about this. Finally i found a person that really unstable it. My uncle taught me how to do joint compound in 97 and 5 years later i challenged him and my cousin on this , but couldn't win the debate, specially against your master
Im at the stage in my home reno that i need to do this and i had no idea, killer timing. Great video, you saved me tons of time and a massive headache.
When I first moved into my condo, there were places here and there, mostly in corners, where it wasn't cracking, but you could see a certain wavyness and the surface felt hollow when you tapped on it. Sure enough, you could stick a screwdriver in and find a sizable pocket of air underneath where, when they taped it in 1958, no one bothered to pre-fill. Joints like that not only look terrible, but I would expect them to be vulnerable to penetration by fire, partially defeating the purpose of using drywall in the first place. I've cut out and filled those gaps whenever I've painted over the years; one great thing about drywall is that you can easily fix most flaws, no matter how sloppy the original job was.
I'm from eastern Iowa. I did drywalling many years ago. Someone asked me to help them so I thought I would do a quick refresher. yours was excellent. Thanks.
I'm in Nova Scotia and I no longer do this professionally, and my brother who did this for 40 years recently passed away. He taught me most everything you showed here, except when prefilling we also used fibre tape with the 90 min compound. Loved your video.
thumbs up. im a concrete guy but need work in winter lol. took a drywall job. good to watch some folks that know what they are doing. thanks i learned a lot
Been a taper going on 32 years now. Nice seeing these young bucks taking their time and doing it correctly! You V-groove your butts , it saves on time through your first and second coats , and you use way less mud from trying to float out a hump! Seen so many tapers NOT do this......which hurts them in the end.
@@ViperStruck1 companies dnt give it that taper or edge because the edges would break easier during transport and wouldn't have the surface to apply the paper that holds 2 together for transportation and yes now in days nothing last past 7 years that's what they mean by lifetime warranty if things lasted for ever we wouldn't have jobs this is more for detail finishers or diy not production
I'm from VT and have been prefilling of large gaps & butt joints for years with Durabond 90 hard set . However I go one step further on my butt joints. I spread the durabond on the butt joint then I put a double layer ( offset slightly ) of fine mesh tape,then coating right on top of that with a light coat of the same durabond mix. Then after it's dried I 1st coat with heavy weight black lid Profoam compound , 2nd & 3 rd coat finishes I use light weight mud. This method has served me well for decades ,where butt joints that break over moving area's such as doors and windows I've never had a call back for a cracked butt joint ever. Love that you also take the extra time and effort to take care of your customer vs the guy working / thinking it's by the sq.ft so he needs to quickly slam it out and run .
Cool video! I did some dry wall work in my basement a year ago. It was my first time. I was humbled. I told myself I’d never do it again. But.. of course here I am about to start mudding a bedroom I just built. I prefilled my joints on my first time. I will be pre filling joints today also. It just makes sense. I also am going to try v-grooving my butt joints. Thanks for sharing your skills!
What bothered you the most about it? (Most people is the sanding factor.) I usually use a sponge & warm/steaming water between coats so I dont have dust
I appreciate you showing me that - so create a small v joint and use hot mud to pre-fill the joints and gaps against the wall it looks like the makings of a better job to me.
I like when my snip stays in one strip when I cut my butts. Most satisfying to see all the strings on the floor after I'm done. Great video Bro. More people need to know they can't jump to get tape on.
Thanks man. I've seen people tape over disgusting buttjoints before. Haha. You get what you pay for. A solid base coat lays a good foundation for your tape. Keep up the good work!
Yes sir, prefill I think is very important for quality professional workmanship,in my opinion! Concrete fill is my product of choice, I call it liquid drywall, with the fibres in product creates incredibly strong bond and fast setting. From kootenays, bc, canada
Upstate NY Durabond 90 I prefill everything you mentioned in the video. I also fabricated a 45 degree wood block I use with my utility knife to make nice V grooves consistently.
Not a drywaller. Remodeled for years and have hung my share of rock. Never seen this technique before. Never too old to learn something new. Just subscribed!
@@jamesnm21 you do commercial or residential? Around me the framers make the wall layouts work with the exterior plywood so the insides don't line up on 16" centers. Hanging vertical would not work as we would have to fill in where there is no stud.
@@Tom-kk1zu everything is usually on 4ft centers spaced 24 or 16 inches fir residential. I've never wood framed the exterior of a commercial building, only interior walls. My dad built commercial many years ago though. I never heard him mention about the framing being different.
@@jamesnm21 That must be nice. My experience is only in residential. Since the framers build the walls to line up with the outside plywood it naturally makes the inside off due to wall thickness at the corners. Maybe some of your framers are nice and frame it so the inside is good.
@@Tom-kk1zu we're the ones usually doing the framing, but that's normally what I've seen. If needed we just cut the corner sheets to line up if that's an issue.
Great video.... Yes I prefill using 5 min mud but only because typically I'm doing a bathroom or kitchen so it's not a large area so 5 min is plenty of working time. Then I tape same day with 20 min and then by the end of the day I'm putting a final coat on with 45 or 90........ Well I try to at least. So this way I can sand the next morning.
I was a journeyman taper for many years. Everything was backfilled with Durabond 90 before taping. Seams, butt joints nails. Less shrinkage. And our rockers alway cut a tapered bevel on the butt joints.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. i usually pre fill big gaps and breakage. But I like your thought on grooving out joints and will incorporate that into my work.
I'm just a DIY'er who just drywalled my basement. I V-grooved and prefilled my bad butt joints just because it looked like it would make it easier to tape. Glad to see I was doing something the pros do.
My man I would LOVE to work for you. I wish I could get guys to understand that prepping a job first just like this will make it a better job. Guys just don't understand this but I do. Great job my man! 👍👍
Great video. I've been prefilling forever (the guy who taught me insisted on it). The one thing I can add that might be helpful is to use a grout bag. Cut the bottom out of an ice cream pail and stick the bag through it. Fold the bag over the lip of the bucket and put the whole thing into a 5 gal bucket with a lid that has a hole for the ice cream bucket. It'll hold the bag open and fold the end over at the bottom. Just fill er up and you're off to the races. For me it's about three times as fast as putting it on with a knife.
@@drywallnation he is making a large icing bag similar to what a cake baker would use to decorate cakes using a couple of pails and a grouting bag. You then squeeze the compound out of the bag nozzle and the pail holds a large amount of material to save you refilling the piping bag constantly. Personally i just mix up in a small bucket and slap it on the hawk as I go along, but whatever works!
Not a sheet rocker but have done a lot of home repair remodel jobs over the years(VA, FL, OK). Did not know v-groving/pre-filling was a thing. Makes so much sense, I real, “now why didn’t I think of that”, moment.
Hi from Germany. V-Shaping is absolute Standard here! I think most would do prefill as well. To me it is common sense. With Uniflott Plaster Knauf claimedin the past, you wouldon`t even need to tape. But at the dusty edges you should apply deep sealer to reach good adhesion. In daily life I think people don`t make sure to separate walls & ceilings from each other with silicontape, so cracks could be an issue then. I am about to put drywall on our roof. Here I use deep sealer and tape because the roof is said to be kind of "moving" way more than walls & ceilings. Strictly separated surfaces from each other. With Silicontape there is a sharp "haircrack" only. Hardly to be recognized, like it a lot.
Awesome Video. I usually tape, then see bubbles, then rip off the tape, and get some mesh tape and cut it to 3/4 wide and then put in channel and then apply 7 coats of mud, LOL, you guys are masters Got to go sand, thanks
I Have always done this, V and prefil is very important. It stops the butt joint from showing up on sun light walls after paint with that tiny miniscule line. Nice to see other pros doing the same thing!
Manitoba. I v groove and pre fill exactly like you. Always got mocked by the other tapers for v grooving but every time I stopped I’d see it showing(usually on sanding day or after paint🤦🏻♂️).
Yup! Same, nothing worse than seeing a tape peaking through the finished product. All because someone didn't take 30 seconds to vgroove. Didnt used to have to vgroove as much years past but with lightweight drywall the paper delaminates very easily. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks for the kind words! Since 1990 eh?! Daamn! I was born in 87. Lol. You've been drywalling almost as long as I've been alive. I'm sorry to hear that. 🤣 Keep up the hard work!
I am strongly considering tackling the finishing of the drywall in my new shop. I figure it doesn't have to be perfect and maybe by the time I'm done with it I'll be proficient for future projects. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Yes indeed I prefilled always to fill any holes, damages, gasps, I plaster with rocksand and ciment not on boards, cause here we build mainly with concrete blocks, even on boards or blocks directly, we must fill, otherwise if the imperfections are way to big, it will take a lots of time to dry, I'm from Mauritius 🇲🇺
I hang drywall and finish in big commercial projects to small patch work in homes, for about 15 years. Never did v-cuts unless it was hung and the ends had big gaps. It's really unnecessary unless the paper is visibly coming off and posed an issue that it would possibly stick up to give a ridge under the tape. I wouldn't waste time with doing it to every one. In my world, we move quickly and it comes out just as good, all that slow motion stuff gets you ran off the site. Prefill is a must though for me. Makes taping so much better, quicker and easier.
Love seeing how you do it over there Brian, cant believe you guys get recessed edges on the ends of your sheets, thats awesome! We only get square ends in AUS, so try to avoid the but joints where we can.
Well to clarify the butt ends of the sheet dont come recessed. We use Trim-Tex buttboard in order to achieve that. You might possible be able to order it in AUS but I'm not sure if it meets your building code.
First I’ve heard of v grooving drywall. Just like v grooving a butt weld in steel. I like the idea. Looks like it makes for a much better job. I’m going to try that on the next one I do.
Indianapolis, been in residential and commercial construction for over 40 years and don't recall seeing any drywall finishers do that, but I will be talking to them ,maybe on a level 5 finish they might.
I'm in Missouri and I will prefilled big voids from bad drywall work but I do not prefill but. My reason is because when you tape a butt joint it dries and just slightly shrinks into the void pulling the tape inwards. Witch I like and will get filled in coat number 2 and 3. I believe you profiling the butt is overkill but obviously a good idea and shows you care about your work.
Excellent tutorial!! I never put butt joints on studs or rafters. I join them in the bays; tighter, no movement. Easier to lay out, less cutting to match the stud/joist pattern! Always v-groove the butt joint edges; eliminates cracks and call backs. Pre-filling with DuraBond a MUST. I bed my tape in it, too. just don't leave goobers to sand off; it's TOUGH stuff. This guy knows his craft.
Yeah bro we pre fill but we don't v cut the butt's, we use hot mudd at the company I work for located here in California, but it seems like good practice to v cut the butt's prior to pre filling. Keep up the great videos.
Good video. I've seen so many videos of guys just taping over nasty butt joints without v grooving and prefilling and after they just get peaked joints. Makes you cringe 😬 it only takes an extra hour of prep to avoid all that mess
As a retired DYI homeowner, I like how you combine clear and concise information, without turning it into a social event, while actually doing the work. Very much like on-the-job training in many industries. While I have seen lots of great drywall RUclips channels, it is my opinion that your instructional methodology is best suited for me. Thank you for the time and effort you put into educating people like me.
Great vid. 97% of people will never understand what it takes to get to this level of work. The guy I learned from, on my first day said “this is an art form most people can never appreciate”. Getting PERFECT walls is not for the faint of heart, glad you help people understand.
Pretty sure 97% of people don't want to do this type of work...it's 10% actual building and 90% ticky tack bullshit. People were building for thousands of years without these kinds of techniques...
More like 94% dude
@@DragonAurora Right do you prefer the comfort and quality of modern homes or do you prefer huts
love ur comment
Thank you for posting. Part of my work is re-flattening walls during remodels, and yes the customers can tell. They've lived in the home for years and appreciate when it's brought up to standards many in this comment section may not appreciate.
I want this guy on my job. A true pro. All the best.
Hey there I'm a painter in Bellingham,wa. Thanks for the great video. I've found that most cracks that appear in drywall over time are from delamination at butt joints and large gaps not being prefilled. To fix them, I v-groove the effected areas, and fill the crevice with loctite power grab adhesive before doing the repair. This way the cracks won't reappear the way they would if they were just mudded over. Nice to see someone taking the time to do the prep that will ensure maximum life span of their work.
If there are cracks they usually need taped again it technically becomes a seam again.
Yeah, helped...I have an upstairs that was done with a friend years ago, and he said not to worry about gaps, that they'll get filled when they mud. Big mistake. But I think I've found a solution with your video. Pre-fill with quick set. And V-notch seams. Remove Paper fuzzies. Thanks. 👍
Nothing compares to watching a pro as he explains what he's doing and why, plus some things to watch out for and how to avoid problems. Great video now I will go struggle to do a passable job. It won't be my first rodeo but I have never prefilled before so it should make this a little easier.
This that he is doing ain't exactly rocket science. A cub learns this his first day on the job with a professional crew.
@@endoalley680 "Pro" is not short for "Rocket Scientist." It is, in fact, great to watch a professional at anything explain what they do and why, if it's drywall or rocket science, it's all gravy.
@@endoalley680 cool superiority complex.
@@simplyengineering2350 I just see real pros doing the work pretty much all day every day. Everybody V-cuts joints and prefills.
@@endoalley680 That's exactly what someone with a superiority complex would say. Cheers. ^_^
I've been recently v grooving my butt joints and on small jobs applying compound 20 sheetrock on my first coat , applying a fiberglass mesh tape. Again only on smaller jobs to help speed up the process. On all jobs v grooving your butts and applying prefill of any kind is a great choice. I don't think I'll be using durabond any time soon, that stuff is not sandable at any stage. Maybe for filling larger holes in plaster repair jobs. I give this guy credit, very confident and great overall working attitude. Great video. Cheers
Out in northern Utah, I always prefill but haven’t routinely v’d out the butt joints. Too often the butt joint has barely enough room to get the screws into the framing behind so cutting away some of the paper would lessen the holding power of the screw. Thanks for your videos. It is great to see how other drywall pros do it!
Dont cut at the screws for maybe an inch..
@@endoalley680 huh?
@@kennethmabus381 If the screw head is in the butt joint because of a poor sheetrock measurement, start Veeing maybe 3/4" to either side of the screw.
@@endoalley680 so if someone uses trim tex buttboard should they v cut the joint?
It’s a 16th of an inch your cutting off the edge that is furry and uneven ,,, I see what your saying , but only if the cut was too far in , as far as weakening, everybody has thoughts I’m not owning yours, I enjoy the think pool .. ps and I’ve been wrong many times in my life :)
OMG... I have been doing this for years and have been called every name in the book for doing it. I would rip up sheets of 7/16 OSB for my joints and get some of the flattest and smoothest joints that you have ever seen. I don't know if he is covering this or not but here is another little tip: do not put the screws in the adjoining edges until the second sheet has been installed. This greatly reduces the squish out that happens when screws are too close to the edges.
What does OSB mean? New to this trade.
@@JoseFlores-xp9jp it’s particle board, like a piece of plywood but tiny strands. Google might be able to help
Damn good point about waiting to screw butt joint until both pieces are hung. That squish will tighten it up a tiny bit too not that it matters
@@JoseFlores-xp9jp oriented strand board. It’s the plywood that is made up of wood chips
You're supposed to hang drywall sheets vertically. The edges are already tapered for that reason. No butt joints.
For me watching pro boarders is a treat, I did it for a short time, 2 of us, my partner was a pro, I was greener than lime green. But the two of us would board a 2000sq ft home in 8 hrs, partner would go back in the evening and tape the entire home, 40 yrs ago without all the cool tools they have now. But like I said , I really enjoy watching pro's work regardless of the job.
🙏🏼 amen, I agree with you! I learned from a pro & he and I could completely board a 1800-2200 square foot place in 8-10 hours! They were some stupid fn cottages too, needed like 30ft of scaffolding cuz of vaulted entrance/ceiling!
Come on now.
@@Hamp72 some people really do have that work drive tho, you wouldnt understand
@@dillon7981 OK how many sheets does a 2000sq ft house take? I will tell you 145 sheets. I have been doing drywall since 1991. The most me and another man has ever hung, 2 of us was 119 sheets in 8 hrs. Back then we nailed everything. Now I have had a crew where we would go in and hang 179 sheets and tape it out in 9 hrs. You can't tell me nothing about drywall. I am Mr.Drywall. I have been in business for over 32 years. Haha blow that smoke somewhere else.
Pixar called, they want their stories back 😅😅😅
Finally a drywaller on RUclips that knows what they’re doing
I am a DYIer and in the process of a full (to the studs) remodel of a bathroom. It has been a monster so far. 1955 home with multiple layers of plaster (actual concrete) and steel mesh to remove. There is not one level spot in the room when I started, but I have done the best I can to get it level and flat. BUT, I have some gaps and a few damaged areas (one where the cut out saw got away from me).
I have watched at least 100 hours of video and THIS ONE actually address the things I want to know.
Thank You!
I just sat down from checking my screws, scraping any edges sticking up, cutting the edges of damaged areas and removing any loose drywall. Plan to do my prefill tomorrow!
I have a house from 1920, and the upstairs walls have a terrible texture on top of crumbling plaster. Definitely thinking of knocking the walls down to the studs, adding some plugs and insulation, and drywalling. Any words of advice?
One of the clearest explanations about how to treat butt joints and where to use hot mud. Thanks very much for this
Nice to see someone who really knows their trade and prides themselves on doing the beat job possible.
I been doing this for the past 20 years and had so many debate with other guys about this. Finally i found a person that really unstable it. My uncle taught me how to do joint compound in 97 and 5 years later i challenged him and my cousin on this , but couldn't win the debate, specially against your master
this professional man knows what he is doing so watch and learn people
Im at the stage in my home reno that i need to do this and i had no idea, killer timing. Great video, you saved me tons of time and a massive headache.
Happy to help! Good luck with your renovation!
When I first moved into my condo, there were places here and there, mostly in corners, where it wasn't cracking, but you could see a certain wavyness and the surface felt hollow when you tapped on it. Sure enough, you could stick a screwdriver in and find a sizable pocket of air underneath where, when they taped it in 1958, no one bothered to pre-fill. Joints like that not only look terrible, but I would expect them to be vulnerable to penetration by fire, partially defeating the purpose of using drywall in the first place. I've cut out and filled those gaps whenever I've painted over the years; one great thing about drywall is that you can easily fix most flaws, no matter how sloppy the original job was.
I'm from eastern Iowa. I did drywalling many years ago. Someone asked me to help them so I thought I would do a quick refresher. yours was excellent. Thanks.
👍. I prefill with Durabond 90....Every time...awesome advice...never v-grooved before, but will now...Thanks !
In this video we get to see how craftsman set up a job for a superior finish product, hats off to you!!!
I'm in Nova Scotia and I no longer do this professionally, and my brother who did this for 40 years recently passed away. He taught me most everything you showed here, except when prefilling we also used fibre tape with the 90 min compound. Loved your video.
thumbs up. im a concrete guy but need work in winter lol. took a drywall job. good to watch some folks that know what they are doing. thanks i learned a lot
Iv never even heard of doing this. Muding my first bathroom tomorrow. DIY. Glad I found this.
Been a taper going on 32 years now. Nice seeing these young bucks taking their time and doing it correctly! You V-groove your butts , it saves on time through your first and second coats , and you use way less mud from trying to float out a hump! Seen so many tapers NOT do this......which hurts them in the end.
@@ViperStruck1not at saving mud and making transition less noticeable
@@ViperStruck1 companies dnt give it that taper or edge because the edges would break easier during transport and wouldn't have the surface to apply the paper that holds 2 together for transportation and yes now in days nothing last past 7 years that's what they mean by lifetime warranty if things lasted for ever we wouldn't have jobs this is more for detail finishers or diy not production
I'm from VT and have been prefilling of large gaps & butt joints for years with Durabond 90 hard set . However I go one step further on my butt joints. I spread the durabond on the butt joint then I put a double layer ( offset slightly ) of fine mesh tape,then coating right on top of that with a light coat of the same durabond mix. Then after it's dried I 1st coat with heavy weight black lid Profoam compound , 2nd & 3 rd coat finishes I use light weight mud. This method has served me well for decades ,where butt joints that break over moving area's such as doors and windows I've never had a call back for a cracked butt joint ever. Love that you also take the extra time and effort to take care of your customer vs the guy working / thinking it's by the sq.ft so he needs to quickly slam it out and run .
Cool video! I did some dry wall work in my basement a year ago. It was my first time. I was humbled. I told myself I’d never do it again. But.. of course here I am about to start mudding a bedroom I just built. I prefilled my joints on my first time. I will be pre filling joints today also. It just makes sense. I also am going to try v-grooving my butt joints. Thanks for sharing your skills!
What bothered you the most about it? (Most people is the sanding factor.)
I usually use a sponge & warm/steaming water between coats so I dont have dust
Next time hang the sheets vertical buddy. The edges are tapered for that reason. That's how we do it here.
just had to do this same trick as a repair to the ceiling at my aunts house in Virginia. It worked great !
I appreciate you showing me that - so create a small v joint and use hot mud to pre-fill the joints and gaps against the wall it looks like the makings of a better job to me.
so good to see people doing quality work
I like when my snip stays in one strip when I cut my butts. Most satisfying to see all the strings on the floor after I'm done. Great video Bro. More people need to know they can't jump to get tape on.
Thanks man. I've seen people tape over disgusting buttjoints before. Haha. You get what you pay for. A solid base coat lays a good foundation for your tape. Keep up the good work!
I can. My base is the sheetrock.
I wish our finishers would watch and learn, that's the way to get ready for tape. Nice work.
Yes sir, prefill I think is very important for quality professional workmanship,in my opinion! Concrete fill is my product of choice, I call it liquid drywall, with the fibres in product creates incredibly strong bond and fast setting. From kootenays, bc, canada
Upstate NY Durabond 90
I prefill everything you mentioned in the video.
I also fabricated a 45 degree wood block I use with my utility knife to make nice V grooves consistently.
Nice dude! Good thinking making your own v-grooving tools. Tajima makes some nice ones now.
Not a drywaller. Remodeled for years and have hung my share of rock. Never seen this technique before. Never too old to learn something new. Just subscribed!
Hang the sheets vertical so no butt joints. That's how we do it here. Not sure why nobody seems to know this here.
@@jamesnm21 you do commercial or residential? Around me the framers make the wall layouts work with the exterior plywood so the insides don't line up on 16" centers. Hanging vertical would not work as we would have to fill in where there is no stud.
@@Tom-kk1zu everything is usually on 4ft centers spaced 24 or 16 inches fir residential. I've never wood framed the exterior of a commercial building, only interior walls. My dad built commercial many years ago though. I never heard him mention about the framing being different.
@@jamesnm21 That must be nice. My experience is only in residential. Since the framers build the walls to line up with the outside plywood it naturally makes the inside off due to wall thickness at the corners. Maybe some of your framers are nice and frame it so the inside is good.
@@Tom-kk1zu we're the ones usually doing the framing, but that's normally what I've seen. If needed we just cut the corner sheets to line up if that's an issue.
Great video.... Yes I prefill using 5 min mud but only because typically I'm doing a bathroom or kitchen so it's not a large area so 5 min is plenty of working time. Then I tape same day with 20 min and then by the end of the day I'm putting a final coat on with 45 or 90........ Well I try to at least. So this way I can sand the next morning.
Straight up artistry and being a master of your craft
Great video. First pro validation of pre-filling I started doing rehabbing plaster and lathe walls
Craftmanship is not cheap, but worth the extra $$$. Been doing the V with the 90 hardest for years now. Great for repair base.
Correct… on higher end jobs. Definitely NOT for a basement suite for a rental. Too costly to do.
I was a journeyman taper for many years. Everything was backfilled with Durabond 90 before taping. Seams, butt joints nails. Less shrinkage. And our rockers alway cut a tapered bevel on the butt joints.
Hang em vertical buddy. No butt joints. Edges are tapered for that reason. That's how we do it here.
I'm a novice and this was very helpful information. Thank you from Seattle.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. i usually pre fill big gaps and breakage. But I like your thought on grooving out joints and will incorporate that into my work.
Good evening. In my experience pre-filled all possible spots in a drywall before taping. Durabound is the king. Good job
Allways good to see a tradesman takes pride in his profession thumbs up buddy
Absolutely, I’ve been doing this for 25 years!
I'm just a DIY'er who just drywalled my basement. I V-grooved and prefilled my bad butt joints just because it looked like it would make it easier to tape. Glad to see I was doing something the pros do.
My man I would LOVE to work for you. I wish I could get guys to understand that prepping a job first just like this will make it a better job. Guys just don't understand this but I do. Great job my man! 👍👍
I was taught to prefill....but not like this. This should be the go to reference for prefilling. Well done.
Is All Prupose OK For prefill?
Great video. I've been prefilling forever (the guy who taught me insisted on it). The one thing I can add that might be helpful is to use a grout bag. Cut the bottom out of an ice cream pail and stick the bag through it. Fold the bag over the lip of the bucket and put the whole thing into a 5 gal bucket with a lid that has a hole for the ice cream bucket. It'll hold the bag open and fold the end over at the bottom. Just fill er up and you're off to the races. For me it's about three times as fast as putting it on with a knife.
Im not entirely sure i understand what you mean but that sounds interesting!
Make a video and show us how you do this. I learn most by watching.
@@drywallnation he is making a large icing bag similar to what a cake baker would use to decorate cakes using a couple of pails and a grouting bag. You then squeeze the compound out of the bag nozzle and the pail holds a large amount of material to save you refilling the piping bag constantly.
Personally i just mix up in a small bucket and slap it on the hawk as I go along, but whatever works!
@@andrewcarr2431 Wouldn't the 45 or 90 minute mud ruin the bag? Just wondering because it sounds cool.
Not a sheet rocker but have done a lot of home repair remodel jobs over the years(VA, FL, OK). Did not know v-groving/pre-filling was a thing. Makes so much sense, I real, “now why didn’t I think of that”, moment.
V-grooving the drywall reminds of how you prepare a joint for welding to get appropriate strength and bonding.
Hi from Germany. V-Shaping is absolute Standard here!
I think most would do prefill as well. To me it is common sense.
With Uniflott Plaster Knauf claimedin the past, you wouldon`t even need to tape. But at the dusty edges you should apply deep sealer to reach good adhesion.
In daily life I think people don`t make sure to separate walls & ceilings from each other with silicontape, so cracks could be an issue then.
I am about to put drywall on our roof. Here I use deep sealer and tape because the roof is said to be kind of "moving" way more than walls & ceilings.
Strictly separated surfaces from each other. With Silicontape there is a sharp "haircrack" only. Hardly to be recognized, like it a lot.
Awesome Video. I usually tape, then see bubbles, then rip off the tape, and get some mesh tape and cut it to 3/4 wide and then put in channel and then apply 7 coats of mud, LOL, you guys are masters
Got to go sand, thanks
Toronto. 90 Durabond Prefil is a must and Very happy to see so many gooVers in the comments. Cheers.
Nice to watch a professional work.
I learn something new everyday! Much love from Canada!👍🏽🤙🏽😁
I Have always done this, V and prefil is very important. It stops the butt joint from showing up on sun light walls after paint with that tiny miniscule line. Nice to see other pros doing the same thing!
No need for that if you know how to finish.
Geez you make that look easy. I guess that's what real skill does.
Davenport Iowa. We fill gaps and cracks but we should do more and it shows. Thanks again for the video
Haha! Thanks for watching man!
63 year old contractor... Impressive!!!!!!!!
Manitoba. I v groove and pre fill exactly like you. Always got mocked by the other tapers for v grooving but every time I stopped I’d see it showing(usually on sanding day or after paint🤦🏻♂️).
Yup! Same, nothing worse than seeing a tape peaking through the finished product. All because someone didn't take 30 seconds to vgroove. Didnt used to have to vgroove as much years past but with lightweight drywall the paper delaminates very easily.
Keep up the good work man!
Yep👍 the best method! I only v groove too and people mock me. They eventually realize their faults after paint and you see their butt joints lol
It’s about time, very important step very important your now my hero
I always V-grove on patches, interesting I have never seen anyone do it on full installs.
Drywall finisher since 1990. Started back back in Guam with tapetech tools. I like what you're doing and I'm your new subscriber. Keep it up.
Thanks for the kind words! Since 1990 eh?! Daamn! I was born in 87. Lol. You've been drywalling almost as long as I've been alive.
I'm sorry to hear that. 🤣 Keep up the hard work!
Been making the V forever. Solid joints always. Missouri and Virginia
Learn something new every day. Nice trick with the v groves
I am strongly considering tackling the finishing of the drywall in my new shop. I figure it doesn't have to be perfect and maybe by the time I'm done with it I'll be proficient for future projects. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
OMG!!! I learned a ton from this video. Thank you for the education!
From Kalamazoo Michigan and I always prefill! I’m working on getting in habit of v grooving though! Your videos are very descriptive and 10/10 👍🏽
Yes indeed I prefilled always to fill any holes, damages, gasps, I plaster with rocksand and ciment not on boards, cause here we build mainly with concrete blocks, even on boards or blocks directly, we must fill, otherwise if the imperfections are way to big, it will take a lots of time to dry, I'm from Mauritius 🇲🇺
I hang drywall and finish in big commercial projects to small patch work in homes, for about 15 years. Never did v-cuts unless it was hung and the ends had big gaps. It's really unnecessary unless the paper is visibly coming off and posed an issue that it would possibly stick up to give a ridge under the tape. I wouldn't waste time with doing it to every one. In my world, we move quickly and it comes out just as good, all that slow motion stuff gets you ran off the site. Prefill is a must though for me. Makes taping so much better, quicker and easier.
Canada here... and I can tell you my contractor didn't do that for sure, but I must admit that my walls are really well done.
We always V-cut as well. It doesn't take a lot of time and it avoids future issues. Great video!
Agree with Mark-EFMB. A very nice, visually efficient video. Thank you. Of course, subscribed!
Great content. I am from Hawaii's Big Island and about to embark on some drywall mudding but this! Changes my game plan
Great example of what a good prefilled should look like in my opinion.
I always pre-fill my butt joints and gaps. Normally with easy sand. I will v-grove most butt joints to keep it smooth. Nice video.
Good to hear! Keep up the good work brother!
@@drywallnation have you guys used easysand for the prefill? Or always durabond, any dry time difference or benefit from using one or the other?
Love seeing how you do it over there Brian, cant believe you guys get recessed edges on the ends of your sheets, thats awesome! We only get square ends in AUS, so try to avoid the but joints where we can.
Well to clarify the butt ends of the sheet dont come recessed. We use Trim-Tex buttboard in order to achieve that. You might possible be able to order it in AUS but I'm not sure if it meets your building code.
Great video and tips. Helped me get a better finish.
Happy to hear Derek!
First I’ve heard of v grooving drywall. Just like v grooving a butt weld in steel. I like the idea. Looks like it makes for a much better job. I’m going to try that on the next one I do.
Interesting. Never seen this before on the US mid-Atlantic. Tape first. Can’t wait to give it a try.
Indianapolis, been in residential and commercial construction for over 40 years and don't recall seeing any drywall finishers do that, but I will be talking to them ,maybe on a level 5 finish they might.
Great work sir great I learn alot from your videos even though I float everything by hand and use a banjo..one day I'll try those automatic tools 👍
same here my man always v grooving, nice steady hand keep it up and thanks
I always pre-fill just about everything that you do, but never thought to v butt joints. It makes perfect sense; thanks for the tip & videos.
I'm in Missouri and I will prefilled big voids from bad drywall work but I do not prefill but. My reason is because when you tape a butt joint it dries and just slightly shrinks into the void pulling the tape inwards. Witch I like and will get filled in coat number 2 and 3. I believe you profiling the butt is overkill but obviously a good idea and shows you care about your work.
This channel is awesome... So much good content on this channel....They know their shyt ....
Thanks for tuning in man! Let us know if there's anything else you'd like to see in future videos
Excellent tutorial!! I never put butt joints on studs or rafters. I join them in the bays; tighter, no movement. Easier to lay out, less cutting to match the stud/joist pattern! Always v-groove the butt joint edges; eliminates cracks and call backs. Pre-filling with DuraBond a MUST. I bed my tape in it, too. just don't leave goobers to sand off; it's TOUGH stuff. This guy knows his craft.
Good advice and nice techniques. V out and prefill with hot mud!
Yeah bro we pre fill but we don't v cut the butt's, we use hot mudd at the company I work for located here in California, but it seems like good practice to v cut the butt's prior to pre filling. Keep up the great videos.
I'm inWhitehorse, Yukon, Canada. I always prefill. Pretty much same way in this video.
From NL Canada. I always 'V' my butts and prefill as well. With spendable 90 usually
👍 I always refill before taping, v grooving works creates a nice surface for taping 👍🏿
Yes, we V and prefill our butt joints with setting type compound. Great video Brian!🔥👏🏻😎
Right on Paul! Nice to see other pros in the industry doing the same thing. Thanks dude!
Very informative! Prefill drywall joints is extremely important. It’s essential for preventing joint cracks.
Thanks for sharing. Good content. I always prefilled butt joints to get a good result. From Ottawa Canada.
Very informative and great presentation. From Dothan, AL
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it!
Good video. I've seen so many videos of guys just taping over nasty butt joints without v grooving and prefilling and after they just get peaked joints. Makes you cringe 😬 it only takes an extra hour of prep to avoid all that mess
Totally agree! Peaked joints are the worse!
It’s a great video and answers a lot of questions
Thank you. I always seem to over think… over work mud. I’m a painter by trade, but I can’t tell you how many nightmare jobs I have to fix.