my 235 carb has flat spots and pops if i hit the gas fast but it i hit the gas pedal slow its fine. duel ex pipes will a worming kit for the carb help that ? thanks!
it will help you need it for heat rez. for choke flap to open my heat rez. tube is still hooked up my carb poped to.so i richened the heat riz.tube a hair for choke to stay on longer when engine is cold and went up 2 jet sizes on fuel and im 4&3/4 TURN OUT ON AIR SCREW OUT FROM ALL THE WAY IN ANOTHER THING THAT CAN MAKE IT DO IT IS FLOAT IS NOT KEEPING CORRECT amount of fuel in boul of carb when getting on it also remove vacume advance from distrib. and locked it in one spot timed. plug metal line to carb off. them 3 wer my pop problem all 3 together each one will cause it hope this help you out took me about a year to get it figured out but its been great for about 7 years since good luck sir
fix heat riz tube for carb first so carb will open choke flap or you will have to do it manualy and pin it open warm up engine pin coke open rev engine if pop is gone keep choke pined open or get heat kit for your carb
I have a 1949 Chevy 3100. Has a 1957 straight 6 235 in it. I’m having issues with the carburetor. Not getting fuel to the carb. Checked fuel lines and replaced fuel pump and filter. Fuel line good all the way to the carb. Not able to feed it fuel. What do you recommend I do. I just got this truck and still learning. Would like to hear your advice. Thanks.
Sounds like the float is stuck up in the carburetor and the needle is corroded in the seat not allowing gas to go in take the line off the side of the carburetor and make sure it's not plugged in between there and into the carb with a flashlight if it is not you're going to have to take the carb off and completely disassembled it go through it piece by piece don't bend your floats make sure the needle for your gas let in the tip of it there should be rubber on it is still rubbery and moves in and out of the seat freely and the little whole blocks allows air to flow through all the way out to your gas line on the side of the carb blow the whole thing out with air after soaking it in gas overnight reassemble it as long as your floats are good if it still does it after you reassemble it and everything is functioning properly your floats aren't properly adjusted you should be able to blow air into your carb until the float Rises and doesn't allow air to come in no more you can do that by testing it with the needle and Float assembled in the top half of the carburetor while having it apart same process gas comes in lifts up the floats and shuts the gas off at a certain level as you use gas throttling the vehicle the float start to lower dropping the needle out of a hole and allowing more gas to come in from your fuel pump if your floats are able to move freely in your needle is able to come in and out of its eat freely it should allow gas to come in and out as it's needed
In a day or so I'm going to take apart that carburetor and I'll put up a video showing in detail exactly what I'm talkin about keep your eye open for it I'll make it just so that you have a chance to see what you're doing on yours all make it to maro and post it when it edited I need to freshen mine eney way and cheak boul
My 53 Chevy pickup truck has been setting up for a year. Now it won't start. Not getting any fuel. Should I rebuild it or is there something else I can do? Thanks
Take off the fuel line and see if you got fuel from fuel pump to carburetor also check in between the gas tank and the pump to make sure you don't have a pluged gas filter or one in between the pump and the carburetor if all of those check out okay you most likely need to rebuild the carburetor your jet is plugged or the float needle is jammed shut and won't let gas in carburetor rebuilding the carburetor would be my last step if all those check out okay either way after I've set a carburetor about a solid here I always rebuild it good luck sir if you have any questions or need any help just give me a shout on a video!
I installed Fenton headers on my 1953 Chevy belair 235 engine . Where can I get retro linkage to accommodate the space I’ve lost . Rochester 1 barrel carb
I would try Speedway motor online. carburetor and linkage kits for your year it'll probably be something you'll have to customize make out of what you can buy all of my linkages are stock and has stock manifold
I have a 1957 chevy 210 i just bought, will be my first carburetor rebuild with a new kit from "Ecklers" is it pretty straightforward to do? any tips? inline 6 235 engine
Yeah it's pretty straightforward to do very simple carburetor 2 build. If you get stuck during the process. Contact me on any of the videos. I will get your message and try my best to help you There is a couple of videos about this carburetor on my channel
My 56 Chevy has this carb. It is leaking no matter how many times I rebuild it. Could the problem be that the new mechanical fuel pump is pumping too much fuel?
As long as the new fuel pump's getting 4to 6 psi. If that parts correct then the needle's not? Pressing Up in the. Seat Hard. Enouthe little flap on the float needs to be Bent more for more pressure on the seat. If the floats are perfect were they travel up-and-down Will do it as well the way they moulded these carburetors at the factory were Bad. The upper part of the bowl that bolts down doesn't seal even with a gasket a lot of the time that's the problem with mine. Mold was wrong I would look online and replace it with a new day two Barrel carb that replaces them. That's what I'm going to eventually. Do cause mine is leaky as well even though it's good and rebuilt right
They are very finicky when it comes to the floats in that needle. Seat I had mine apart about 20 times. Before it was right. Some of these carbs that i've rebuilt I have had to use a custom ground made Needle out of a 4 barrel Carburetor Custom. ground on the grinder. Hopefully some of this information will help you. Make sure you replace the floats so you're know that they're floating at their maximum potential and putting maximum pressure on the Needle seat
Ok, thanks! Am getting ready to do a rebuild a 1brl rochester on a 55 chevy. Looks pretty much the same as this 1. Looking for all the references I can.
@@troubledsoul764 if you rebuild the carburetor be aware they are very finicky if floats are not perfect it will constantly overflow gas and not shut gas off to the Bowl or you will not have enough in the bowl to maintain the bowl and drive the car at the same time like it is starving of gas I've had nothing but issues with the one I've had at some point I will be replacing it with a modern day carburetor for it .they're about 300 bucks it might be a better way to go honestly also has a idle kick up on them your Idols up high you tap the pedal the idle comes down there's a little lever and Rod for the main flap on the top of the carburetor every stop you come up to you have to double tap the gas to bring idle down these carburetors were crap and the main body gasket leaked every one of them is leaky and being over top of the exhaust manifold fire waiting to happen keep a towel around mine and a fire extinguisher in the car I can't tell you how many times I've been driving in the float s t u c k in the car tried to catch fire this car will be getting a 327 eventually I only put 300 miles a year on it if you're going to be driving a lot get you a modern day replacement carburetor you'll be way happier with the response and performance honestly just from someone that's been playing with one for 7 years on and off each spring
Should i mess with it or just get a new carb? I have 2 stylines i got recently.. on a trade But both have diff carburetors? Car has carb like yours but valve cover looks like 216 not 235? Also i have a video on here of mine dying when i hit the gas? Thanks
If you can afford it, replace it. Rebuild it if you have to. The stock single barrel carburetors were not very good formed in the mold. They're very leaky. Get you a replacement it would be better
my 235 carb has flat spots and pops if i hit the gas fast but it i hit the gas pedal slow its fine. duel ex pipes will a worming kit for the carb help that ? thanks!
it will help you need it for heat rez. for choke flap to open my heat rez. tube is still hooked up my carb poped to.so i richened the heat riz.tube a hair for choke to stay on longer when engine is cold and went up 2 jet sizes on fuel and im 4&3/4 TURN OUT ON AIR SCREW OUT FROM ALL THE WAY IN ANOTHER THING THAT CAN MAKE IT DO IT IS FLOAT IS NOT KEEPING CORRECT amount of fuel in boul of carb when getting on it also remove vacume advance from distrib. and locked it in one spot timed. plug metal line to carb off. them 3 wer my pop problem all 3 together each one will cause it hope this help you out took me about a year to get it figured out but its been great for about 7 years since good luck sir
fix heat riz tube for carb first so carb will open choke flap or you will have to do it manualy and pin it open warm up engine pin coke open rev engine if pop is gone keep choke pined open or get heat kit for your carb
@@kmc468 thank you a hole bunch! i have the choke pined open. i have a hdi distributor. so its got to be the floats and jets. thanks again man!
I have a 1949 Chevy 3100. Has a 1957 straight 6 235 in it. I’m having issues with the carburetor. Not getting fuel to the carb. Checked fuel lines and replaced fuel pump and filter. Fuel line good all the way to the carb. Not able to feed it fuel. What do you recommend I do. I just got this truck and still learning. Would like to hear your advice. Thanks.
Sounds like the float is stuck up in the carburetor and the needle is corroded in the seat not allowing gas to go in take the line off the side of the carburetor and make sure it's not plugged in between there and into the carb with a flashlight if it is not you're going to have to take the carb off and completely disassembled it go through it piece by piece don't bend your floats make sure the needle for your gas let in the tip of it there should be rubber on it is still rubbery and moves in and out of the seat freely and the little whole blocks allows air to flow through all the way out to your gas line on the side of the carb blow the whole thing out with air after soaking it in gas overnight reassemble it as long as your floats are good if it still does it after you reassemble it and everything is functioning properly your floats aren't properly adjusted you should be able to blow air into your carb until the float Rises and doesn't allow air to come in no more you can do that by testing it with the needle and Float assembled in the top half of the carburetor while having it apart same process gas comes in lifts up the floats and shuts the gas off at a certain level as you use gas throttling the vehicle the float start to lower dropping the needle out of a hole and allowing more gas to come in from your fuel pump if your floats are able to move freely in your needle is able to come in and out of its eat freely it should allow gas to come in and out as it's needed
In a day or so I'm going to take apart that carburetor and I'll put up a video showing in detail exactly what I'm talkin about keep your eye open for it I'll make it just so that you have a chance to see what you're doing on yours all make it to maro and post it when it edited I need to freshen mine eney way and cheak boul
Thank you very much.
My 53 Chevy pickup truck has been setting up for a year. Now it won't start. Not getting any fuel. Should I rebuild it or is there something else I can do? Thanks
Take off the fuel line and see if you got fuel from fuel pump to carburetor also check in between the gas tank and the pump to make sure you don't have a pluged gas filter or one in between the pump and the carburetor if all of those check out okay you most likely need to rebuild the carburetor your jet is plugged or the float needle is jammed shut and won't let gas in carburetor rebuilding the carburetor would be my last step if all those check out okay either way after I've set a carburetor about a solid here I always rebuild it good luck sir if you have any questions or need any help just give me a shout on a video!
I installed Fenton headers on my 1953 Chevy belair 235 engine . Where can I get retro linkage to accommodate the space I’ve lost . Rochester 1 barrel carb
I would try Speedway motor online. carburetor and linkage kits for your year it'll probably be something you'll have to customize make out of what you can buy all of my linkages are stock and has stock manifold
@@kmc468 thank you!
I have a 1957 chevy 210 i just bought, will be my first carburetor rebuild with a new kit from "Ecklers" is it pretty straightforward to do? any tips? inline 6 235 engine
Yeah it's pretty straightforward to do very simple carburetor 2 build. If you get stuck during the process. Contact me on any of the videos. I will get your message and try my best to help you There is a couple of videos about this carburetor on my channel
@@kmc468 alright thanks for the help
WHERE DOES THE TUBE THAT COME OUT HEADER MANIFOLD GO TO
Windshield wipers
My 56 Chevy has this carb. It is leaking no matter how many times I rebuild it. Could the problem be that the new mechanical fuel pump is pumping too much fuel?
As long as the new fuel pump's getting 4to 6 psi. If that parts correct then the needle's not? Pressing Up in the. Seat Hard. Enouthe little flap on the float needs to be Bent more for more pressure on the seat. If the floats are perfect were they travel up-and-down Will do it as well the way they moulded these carburetors at the factory were Bad. The upper part of the bowl that bolts down doesn't seal even with a gasket a lot of the time that's the problem with mine. Mold was wrong I would look online and replace it with a new day two Barrel carb that replaces them. That's what I'm going to eventually. Do cause mine is leaky as well even though it's good and rebuilt right
They are very finicky when it comes to the floats in that needle. Seat I had mine apart about 20 times. Before it was right. Some of these carbs that i've rebuilt I have had to use a custom ground made Needle out of a 4 barrel Carburetor Custom. ground on the grinder. Hopefully some of this information will help you. Make sure you replace the floats so you're know that they're floating at their maximum potential and putting maximum pressure on the Needle seat
Was this a rochester carburetor?
Yes it is
Original carb 1953 Rochester Single Barrel heat rise tube activated choke
Ok, thanks! Am getting ready to do a rebuild a 1brl rochester on a 55 chevy. Looks pretty much the same as this 1. Looking for all the references I can.
@@troubledsoul764 if you rebuild the carburetor be aware they are very finicky if floats are not perfect it will constantly overflow gas and not shut gas off to the Bowl or you will not have enough in the bowl to maintain the bowl and drive the car at the same time like it is starving of gas I've had nothing but issues with the one I've had at some point I will be replacing it with a modern day carburetor for it .they're about 300 bucks it might be a better way to go honestly also has a idle kick up on them your Idols up high you tap the pedal the idle comes down there's a little lever and Rod for the main flap on the top of the carburetor every stop you come up to you have to double tap the gas to bring idle down these carburetors were crap and the main body gasket leaked every one of them is leaky and being over top of the exhaust manifold fire waiting to happen keep a towel around mine and a fire extinguisher in the car I can't tell you how many times I've been driving in the float s t u c k in the car tried to catch fire this car will be getting a 327 eventually I only put 300 miles a year on it if you're going to be driving a lot get you a modern day replacement carburetor you'll be way happier with the response and performance honestly just from someone that's been playing with one for 7 years on and off each spring
Should i mess with it or just get a new carb?
I have 2 stylines i got recently.. on a trade
But both have diff carburetors? Car has carb like yours but valve cover looks like 216 not 235?
Also i have a video on here of mine dying when i hit the gas? Thanks
If you can afford it, replace it. Rebuild it if you have to. The stock single barrel carburetors were not very good formed in the mold. They're very leaky. Get you a replacement it would be better