I know this is an old video, but I would like to point out that the straight throttle lever, on this carb, makes it correct for 1936 or earlier. They were changed a bit each year. In 1937, with the introduction of the 216 engine, an offset lever was used, That was a "one year only" lever, but a different offset lever was used through the end of W-1 application in 1949. The bore increased at some time, perhaps in 1937 also.That carb would look just right on my 1936 1-1/2 ton truck, which, by the way, lived in Kansas until I brought it to Missouri about 15 years ago. Fantastic vid!!
O’boy what a great video. My 49 Suburban is rocking a pair of these on top of a 261 Stovebolt. It was a real pleasure to watch your meticulous work. Love the channel.
Thank you so very much for this great video. It is just what I need. My son has a 49 with this carb on and it is in dire need of rebuilding. Thank you so much. I like what you have at the very end of your video. 🙏🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🐸 FROG Fully. Rely On God.
Thanks again for the video. I got the same rebuilt kit that you got. I ruined accelerator pump. I put it in just like you did but the spring under the pump pushes the pump back out. I tried several times and I even put a little grease around the leather on the pump. Any suggestions?
I have a '47, but who knows how many times the carb may have been swapped. There seem to be some interesting variations in these carbs, at least with regard to the accelerator pump. On mine, the cylindrical shell for the pump is much shorter, I corresponded with a maker of the rebuild kits in Florida, but my carb is missing the stamped numbers on the bottom of the mounting flange. After that, I moved on to other things and lost track of the determination. It seems to run OK, bit I'd like to get to the bottom of it one day.... I think I had to reuse the original pump, because the new one had a cup below the piston for the spring, where on mine, the spring had to be above the piston to work correctly....
I think its a 3 liter, A viewer suggested SharperTek shellac-buster. It's a little pricey but they claim you can strain it and keep using it. Next time I have a carb to do, I'm going to get some of that. And I just like the theory of an ultrasonic cleaner to "scrub" out the inside passages and all of the hard to clean areas. I'm kind of new to it as well. Thanks for watching!
@@TheJayhawker Wow the Sharper Teck stuff is not cheap at all! I just ordered an ultra sonic cleaner. Looking forward to using it. I also heard its great for the small areas as you mentioned. Thanks for all your advice.
Good video ! I just rebuilt a 569S [ not familiar with carburetors this old] and installed it on my 36 Chevy . I am getting problems [ my guess] with the secondary...not enough fuel on acceleration. my question is how do i adjust it / thanks in advance
Look down the air horn, or the top of the carb as you pump the throttle linkage. If the accelerator pump is working you should see a stream of fuel squirting out of the brass nozzle. If not, you will need to check out the pump again and make sure the passages and nozzle aren't blocked.
I attempted this disassembly and can’t get two slotted screws out of the carb body. Actually one of the brass heads broke off inside the body. The other is the tiny screwdriver head soaked it with pb blaster, applied heat and actually stripped the slotted screw. Not sure I’m gettin those out with any kind of success. I also have a Rochester model B carb on my truck currently but the throttle arm on the throttle shaft was brazed poorly by another party and it is loose and wonky. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations for either of these two problem carbs? Thanks
That's exactly what I was afraid of. In that case I would look into finding replacement parts and then carefully drill out the stripped plugs. Perhaps try easy-outs. Or another carb, unfortunately. As for the loose throttle shaft you will want to get brass or bronze bushings that fit the shaft, then set the carb up square on a drill press or take it to a machine shop and drill out the cast to fit the bushings.
I got it from chevsofthe40s.com Their part# is 609993. I always call and order over the phone for a much better shipping rate. I first soaked it in gasoline for a few days, then threw it in my ultrasonic cleaner with detergent granules, simple green, and water. Finished up with brake cleaner and blowing it out with air. Thanks for watching!
I have watched a marathon of your videos 1through 11 so far on the 48. Love that you are Sharing your knowledge. I can read about it all day long but it’s just better to watch somebody Actually tear into this stuff. Also love the little Chevy ads bits and pieces.
Rochester started out life as an electrical division but eventually moved into carburetors. From the early 30's on it built replacement carbs for cars but it wasn't until the late 40's to early 50's that they were installed on the assembly line.
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Great video, just followed along and rebuilt a carb today!
I know this is an old video, but I would like to point out that the straight throttle lever, on this carb, makes it correct for 1936 or earlier. They were changed a bit each year. In 1937, with the introduction of the 216 engine, an offset lever was used, That was a "one year only" lever, but a different offset lever was used through the end of W-1 application in 1949. The bore increased at some time, perhaps in 1937 also.That carb would look just right on my 1936 1-1/2 ton truck, which, by the way, lived in Kansas until I brought it to Missouri about 15 years ago. Fantastic vid!!
O’boy what a great video.
My 49 Suburban is rocking a pair of these on top of a 261 Stovebolt.
It was a real pleasure to watch your meticulous work.
Love the channel.
Thank you so very much for this great video. It is just what I need. My son has a 49 with this carb on and it is in dire need of rebuilding. Thank you so much. I like what you have at the very end of your video. 🙏🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🐸 FROG
Fully. Rely On God.
Enjoyed watching your video, great job on that rebuild.
Thanks 👍
The crickets in your shop are making me sleepy. I enjoyed the video, very detailed and informative. New subscriber!
They make me want to fly off the handle! Thanks for watching
Thank you so much.. lots of help!
I like the 6 exhaust valves in the background on the workbench.
Hi, amazing video!
I had a question, what exactly foes the weird spring do for the metering rod? How does it help?
Thanks again for the video. I got the same rebuilt kit that you got. I ruined accelerator pump. I put it in just like you did but the spring under the pump pushes the pump back out. I tried several times and I even put a little grease around the leather on the pump. Any suggestions?
I have a '47, but who knows how many times the carb may have been swapped. There seem to be some interesting variations in these carbs, at least with regard to the accelerator pump. On mine, the cylindrical shell for the pump is much shorter, I corresponded with a maker of the rebuild kits in Florida, but my carb is missing the stamped numbers on the bottom of the mounting flange. After that, I moved on to other things and lost track of the determination. It seems to run OK, bit I'd like to get to the bottom of it one day.... I think I had to reuse the original pump, because the new one had a cup below the piston for the spring, where on mine, the spring had to be above the piston to work correctly....
What size unit is this machine, how big is the tank. Thanks for the great video.
How in hell are you supposed to remember how it all goes back together?
Also, what did you use as a cleaner to soak it in?
A true Master Mechanic!! I just love your videos. Great work and excellent explanations. In the kit you used, what jets come with it?
No jets come in the kit, but they are not typically a wear item. Thanks for watching
Need to keep a dedicated geo to fill with all your varnished fuel
what size is the Ultra sonic cleaner you used? Also did it make a difference in the cleaning? I'm thinking of getting one. Thanks
I think its a 3 liter, A viewer suggested SharperTek shellac-buster. It's a little pricey but they claim you can strain it and keep using it. Next time I have a carb to do, I'm going to get some of that. And I just like the theory of an ultrasonic cleaner to "scrub" out the inside passages and all of the hard to clean areas. I'm kind of new to it as well. Thanks for watching!
@@TheJayhawker Wow the Sharper Teck stuff is not cheap at all! I just ordered an ultra sonic cleaner. Looking forward to using it. I also heard its great for the small areas as you mentioned. Thanks for all your advice.
Good video ! I just rebuilt a 569S [ not familiar with carburetors this old] and installed it on my 36 Chevy .
I am getting problems [ my guess] with the secondary...not enough fuel on acceleration.
my question is how do i adjust it / thanks in advance
Look down the air horn, or the top of the carb as you pump the throttle linkage. If the accelerator pump is working you should see a stream of fuel squirting out of the brass nozzle. If not, you will need to check out the pump again and make sure the passages and nozzle aren't blocked.
@@TheJayhawker Oh thanks for the advice and I really appreciate it that you responded you got yourself a new subscriber thanks again
How do you rewind the tensioner on the air horn assembly
Great work I need a w1 carter rebuilt for my 47 how much will you charge to rebuild mine ?
$250 parts included plus shipping back to you.
I attempted this disassembly and can’t get two slotted screws out of the carb body. Actually one of the brass heads broke off inside the body. The other is the tiny screwdriver head soaked it with pb blaster, applied heat and actually stripped the slotted screw. Not sure I’m gettin those out with any kind of success. I also have a Rochester model B carb on my truck currently but the throttle arm on the throttle shaft was brazed poorly by another party and it is loose and wonky. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations for either of these two problem carbs?
Thanks
Fuel leaks out at the throttle shaft arm and on the opposite end of carb throttle shaft as well
That's exactly what I was afraid of. In that case I would look into finding replacement parts and then carefully drill out the stripped plugs. Perhaps try easy-outs. Or another carb, unfortunately. As for the loose throttle shaft you will want to get brass or bronze bushings that fit the shaft, then set the carb up square on a drill press or take it to a machine shop and drill out the cast to fit the bushings.
@@TheJayhawker thanks
What repair manual are you using?
The is a very complete kit. What brand was it and ware did you get it?
Sorry I don't remember what it was branded as, but it is what you will get from chevsofthe40s.
Thanks 👍
THE KIT WAS A DAYTONA CARB KIT THEY ARE OUT OF NEW SUMERNA BEACH FL. GREAT TO DEAL WITH @@thomaskeene9072
Hey appreciate your video here. Where can I purchase the rebuild kit for this carburetor?
Thank you
I got it from chevsofthe40s.com Their part# is 609993. I always call and order over the phone for a much better shipping rate.
I first soaked it in gasoline for a few days, then threw it in my ultrasonic cleaner with detergent granules, simple green, and water. Finished up with brake cleaner and blowing it out with air. Thanks for watching!
The Jayhawker awesome thank you I’ve watched a few of tour videos and you do a nice job of explaining things. Thanks again
I have watched a marathon of your videos 1through 11 so far on the 48. Love that you are Sharing your knowledge. I can read about it all day long but it’s just better to watch somebody Actually tear into this stuff. Also love the little Chevy ads bits and pieces.
@@markclark8367 Thanks, I'm the same way as far as learning. I'll keep 'em coming as long as I can.
WAS HOPING TO SEE HOW THE ACCELERATOR PUMP DIAPHRAM WENT ON BUT YOU JUMPED RIGHT OVER THAT
Not sure what you mean. At 34:30 I showed installing the pump exactly as it comes in the kit. Is there something else you need help with?
You should use diesel to clean those parts it's much better at cleaning and it's a whole lot safer...
If this is a GM car, why didn't they use a Rochester carburetor?
Rochester started out life as an electrical division but eventually moved into carburetors. From the early 30's on it built replacement carbs for cars but it wasn't until the late 40's to early 50's that they were installed on the assembly line.
You said ya had $2.00 worth of cough medicine now it's over 2yrs later and that's $8.00 worth now.
Excellent job on this rebuild this fellow RUclipsr has subscribed to you .