I am happy so say I have no urgent work required on my Evinrude. But learning how to do a cab clean is in the radar. Awesome to be watching Dangar Marine video again. Love your work Stu!
Dangar Marine thank you for this video. It was EXTREMELY INSTRUMENTAL in me rebuilding the carbs on a 1985 Johnson 60hp. I am by no means a mechanic, but I literally could NOT have done it without your video. I can't thank you enough... Who knows how much $$$ you saved me. Keep up the great videos!!!
Quick tip for tools to work on Carbs with. Gunsmith screw driver/tools sets are great for working on sensitive brass parts like Carb Jets. The screwdriver bits are designed differently than normal screwdrivers... normal screwdriver flat head bits are tapered, Gunsmith flat heads have an even thickness shaft so are less likely skip out of the slot and damage the soft brass or other screws that hold the Carb together. Also, these sets (not advertising for them but the one I have is an 89 piece set from Wheeler Engineering) offer a lot of bit size choices so you can find the exact bit that fits snug and is correct width to fit into whatever Jet/screw you need and helps to prevent damage to them. Thanks for your videos, they have been very helpful! Watched your other videos on Carb tuning and helped me get my work boat back to working order and working quicker than if I had to go to a mechanic, thanks a lot!
Thanks to your video I learned that my floats were installed upside down. It wouldn't get out of its own way. It seems obvious now that I installed them the right way. Take it easy on me. I've only been working on stuff like this for around forty years.
Great video. I have a request, could you make a video about symptoms. Like you'll know your carb needs cleaning if....or your float needs adjusted if .... Thanks for all the helpful content.
Take a photo of what you're dismantling as this helps when putting complex parts back together. If you are leaving the job for a couple of days its wise to put things back together hand tight. Stu your videos are great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hey Danger, I really appreciate the step by step. My Johnson 25hp stalls after I power down when arriving to dock. One marina just cleaned the carb but it still does the same thing. I opened up the fuel pump like in your video and discovered the same issues, broken cap and o-ring. Thanks for you input. Cheers
Excellent video! I bought a used Johnson 25hp outboard with electric start. It ran terribly! Decided to rebuild the carb and noticed someone had installed the float up side down! It was harder removing the starter to access the carb nut than it was rebuilding the carb! Thanks for a great video.
You do great videos Stu. Thank you for all the work you put in with these videos. You take the scare out of starting those bigger jobs. I got my junk 150 Force motor going with all the general information from your videos
Omg you're helpful. Got a running, new to me, old boat with an even older motor. These videos give me peace of mind that, with your instruction, I'll be able to fix things that may come up ohn the future, and perform done preventative maintenance.
Thanks for all the great videos. I am trying to get a 1975 25 hp Johnson that was run in salt water. It has been setting up for 25 years and I am learning a lot from you. Thanks again
Hahaha. 26 seconds into the video and I’m already lost. 😄 Starting with “I’ve already removed the...” probably wasn’t the beginning I was hoping for. 😬😂
Videos really been helping me out find a problem with my 1990 johnson 28 spl..i think im having a carb problem..itll start up run but onece i put it in forward gear then try to accelerate it dies..any pointers??
Awesome video Stu. I bought an Evinrude 30hp last week, it ran fine for the 3hr cruise home but now has a rough idle I suspect from picking up crud from the bottom of the tank (it got choppy 20minutes from home) first thing to do is is clean the carb (and tank, filter, plugs etc etc) but atleast now I have a comprehensive guide as to what I'm doing.
Nice video and work. Do you know what the 2 numbers inside carb represent? Located just below emulsion tube, one number above the other. 334 375. A different carb that looks identical has 332, 562. I’m trying a different eBay carb on my 28spl. Thank you.
Great video, you dumbed it down perfectly for me. I almost can't wait till my carbs need cleaning so I can try it. I might have to put sugar in my own gas tank.
This video is going to be my tutor through the process this coming weekend. I have a 78 35hp Johnson with the same parts number. Thanks very much for this video. I’ll be filming a bit of it and reference this video.
Yes, back in 78 the engine HP was rated at the flywheel. This engine is around a 1993 or so that this guy is working on, and by then they rated it at the propshaft. Since about 5hp is lost between the flywheel and the propshaft, a 35 in 1978 is the same engine as a 30 in 1993 because your 78 only has about 30 propshaft horsepower.
Only thing I would add is on older carbs, check the butterfly shaft for excessive play before you order any parts. Most of the butterfly shafts run 'plain bearing' in the body of the carb and once they get to a loose fit the carb is often considered 'worn out. No one sells a bush kit for these carbs, but any decent machinist can make a set of bushes and ream the carb body to fit the bushes and so return the butterfly shaft to a decent air tight seal.
I like to clean the carburetors with an ultrasonic cleaner. A little bit of Degreaser some water turn the heater on right it for a few minutes and it usually comes up good.
Can you please help me i have jhonson 30hp pls help me want start again before all good but we make like a hour driving and then just stop and we cant start again
"Hollow Ground" screwdriver tips. they will prevent brass or aluminum distortion , the flat blade driver will almost always mark up and nick the fittings or fasteners.......
First off. Very good video. Quality is top notch. Did I miss the part where you replaced the freeze plugs? I also can't find the idle mixture screw. Could it be hidden? I'd like to use as many parts from the rebuild kit as possible. For whatever reason the new seat from the kit doesn't thread all the way in like the old seat. Yep, starting to regret taking on this repair. New float looks different. Same but different. Not sure if it's okay to use it. UPDATE: I used parts from the kit that I felt comfortable using that included. Needle, bowl gasket, pickup tube o ring, drain plug o ring, seat o ring and float rod that connects the float to the carb body. I really wanted to do a complete rebuild but some parts from the kit just weren't compatible. The aftermarket float looked like it will work but I didn't want to chance it. My advice is to purchase a repair manual if you are serious about doing this rebuild as I'm sure the manual is much more thorough. Parts I didn't or couldn't use from the kit were freeze plugs that I think need pressed in, seat that had different thread pattern, various other plastic parts that I assume are somewhere hidden within the carb.
This video was tremendously helpful! My 6hp tiller motor would bog down when I gave it any throttle in forward or reverse. I followed this cleaning procedure and it now runs great in forward and reverse! I noticed that every couple of times I put it in neutral, it would rev to max throttle and stay there even though I didn't touch it. It wasn't doing that before and wonder if it is a linkage issue or I somehow introduced a vacuum leak? Thanks again!
It could well be a sticking throttle plate. They aren't always hard linked so you can close the throttle but the spring won't return the throttle plate straight away.
Seems related, pls help. Every diagram I have found shows a core plug instead of a screen on this carburetor side vent. My carburetor has a screen instead. The rebuild kit I bought has core plugs that would fit this but no screens. In fact no website including Johnson/Evinrude sells these screens. There is a big difference between core plugs and screens. The opposite of the carb has a similar vent with a factory installed screen. Part number 4 on this diagram is what I’m talking about. Why the discrepancy? I have a Eslene 28 spl 1992
I just picked up a tracker boat with a 93 Evinrude 40 hp. I did a cold compression test before doing a lake test & compression on top cylinder was 150 & bottom was 149. Did fine at the lake, but idles a little low & takes a little bit to get warmed up. Do those compression numbers seem too high? I trust my gauge but just seems high to me now that i think about it. Motor appears ot be pretty low hours & not used much over the Years
Great videos! I recently purchased a 91 ranger with a 150 mercury black max, the dealer replaced the fuel lines. I was going to put a water separator on an noticed the diameter of the lines are 5/16, Are these too small? Do I need 3/8? Great videos!
Great Video's you have helped me out a lot. After changing power pack, coils, plugs, wires, carb kit, fuel pump my 1990 25hp johnson surges/pulsates when at full throttle? Any suggestion on why its doing that. Thanks. D
Great video, it gave me the courage to tackle my two carbs on my 2000 year model 50 hp Johnson. I have a question. My outboard is equipped with the VRO2 unit that supplies both oil and gas to the carbs. Someone has bypassed the oil pump part and I just mix my own gas and oil. Can you put a regular fuel pump on this engine or an electric fuel pump so I can remove the old VRO 2 unit? If so, what pump do you recommend. You're video gave me the knowledge and the courage to be able to do this job. I will be doing the reassemble tonight. Thanks for your help from down under.
I have a 1969 Johnson outboard 2 stroke it runs good but it hesitate off idle to going full throttle. Should I just rebuild the carburetor or just clean the inside out or just the fuel bowl? That's again Kyle
I’ve been working on a 1984 Evinrude 35 hp I’ve been thru the fuel system twice rebuilt the fuel pump carb looked like someone had already been thru it good compression and appears good spark on cranking it will start and run for about 20 seconds and die float bowl is full of fuel I don’t know maybe it’s running to rich but it will only start after I hit the primer I’d say it’s starving for fuel or it’s losing spark
your vids are fantastic, thanks for taking the time to make them. I have a 1983 johnson 70hp 3 cyl. When I idle around for a minute or 2 and then add throttle the engine cuts out. when I pump the throttle (with engine running) it will continue to bog down, so I put the throttle down, take it off, on, off, on off until it takes off. Any ideas? I have cleaned all the carbs, and I have just rebuilt and replaced all seals and gaskets, I have also replaced the fuel pump. thanks in advance!
@@TheHowtoDad Was it the reed valves? Having the same issue with my 93 60hp. Sometimes when it hesitates if I push the key in to choke it will boost it up on plane.
@@JJJTaylors reed valve were fine. Seems to be a fuel delivery problem somewhere...ive rebuilt the carbs, I'm going to replace all the fuel lines next, but a no go on the reed valves
Curious if you folks run ethanol. Here in the states the government has decided to subsidize the farmers by requiring refineries to produce ethanol. You can find non-ethanol fuel here but it is not very common and you have to hunt for it. When you tear down a carb here you often find a white powdery substance resembling corn starch. It can really cause trouble throughout the fuel system but but it ultimately show up in the carb. It also creates allot of trouble with water in the fuel. Great video.
Greg Stephens Yeah Ethanol sucks especially for carbureted motors. When I see hardened ethanol it has always been a yellow/orange color. Usually white powder is corrosion.
White/red is corrosion - after the ethanol evaporates the water remains and kicks off the corrosion, and then the water eventually evaporates. the colour difference is simply what metal has reacted with the water. White is aluminum , red is steel ( usually in a float bowl that is the float hinge pin) , yellow is usually brass/aluminum electrolytic reaction residue. None of that stuff is any good. If you have to use ethanol - or suspect it- use a fuel stabiliser to save your time.
Ron Powell Hey Ron the stuff I was talking about was in the fuel line. I know the plastic lining goes bad and breaks down. When I cut the hose apart there was hardened yellow/orange (looked like earwax) inside. This was when I first bought the boat from a person who claimed only non ethanol gas was used. Plus he did not have a fuel/water separator and I drained the fuel and of course it contained water😉 Do you think the hard chunks were just the plastic and was yellow from the main line fuel fitting?
Hi jimbo- quite likely that yellow or white 'chunky' or flakes of stuff are the PTFE or 'plastic' inner lining of the fuel hose breaking down. Note that you can get water in non ethanol fuel as well. That water can be from the servo tank condensate, plain old rain water running into the servo tank when it is being filled - or just the refill lid leaking- and also condensation in the fuel bowl of the carb ( hot engine - water stay evaporated, engine cools or cold fuel enters carb, water condenses. carbs have to be vented to atmosphere to work so you cant stop it from happening. Good practice is to just just undo the carb drains and let the bowls drain out completely once or twice a season, and use a stabiliser in your fuel every fill. And of course, ditch that fuel line for some automotive rated , non lined , fuel hose.
Yes we have ethanol fuel here. But only the people that dont think use it. We have max 10% (E10) and 85% (E85) available , plus 87, 91, 95 and 98 RON , but often E10, 95 and 98 only though. the main issue is that E10 in cars gives you a lower range compared to 91RON by about 8% (surprise) but E10 is only 3-4cents cheaper. At $1.44 a litre for 91, and $1:40 for E10, you are not paying 10% less for E10, so the net effect is you are paying more per kilometre to use E10. Our fuel is dyed specific colours so you can tell what fuel is what and often yellows/red/green or blue 'powders' in fuel bowls indicates aluminium corrosion that has been coloured by the fuel dye as the fuel dries out. As every one knows , the ethanol in itself is not really a problem. But the hydroscopic nature means it sucks up any water it can- from the air, condensation etc- and retains teh water until the ethanol becomes saturated. And that water makes teh ethanol a poor fuel calory wise. Plus, once sturated , any more water presented will cause seperation to occur and that is when you get the sudden 'bowl full of water' happen.
Hey mate, This is such a helpful video and channel. (subbed with notifications). I have a question, my carburettor (same motor as video) has nothing covering the front of it where there are 3 unused bolt holes. Is that right or should there be some sort of breather box? My cousin has an almost identical motor that has a plastic cover/box with a dial on it marked rich or lean.
STU...You make rebuilding a carb look so easy... I’m good with tools and my hands and I’m a maintenance technician at a local factory ... is it silly that I’m hesitant to attempt carb rebuilds ?... I’m more worried about getting the 2 carbs linked and sinked back together .. I’ve never worked on one so it’s intimidating
You don't need to worry about that. If the motor is running good, no syncing is required. Just count the turns of the screw. But you don't have to even remove it. Just spray carb cleaner and compressed air through it. It's better to remove and cleaned but not required. Same with the float. If it's ok, there is no adjustment needed. Just remove it to clean the area and put it back. Once you do it once you will see it's not that hard.
jimbo gasoline thanks jimbo gasoline .. yea it runs fine but has a leak on one of the carbs.. and when I put it in the water as soon as I put it in gear it shuts off.. I’m assuming from the lack of fuel
pimpshack81 whichever carb is leaking probably has a float stuck. I'd open it up, clean it, check and see If the float has any holes, and see If the float pin is in place. You can turn the carb upside down and with your mouth blow air in it. You should not be able to if the float is correct. You may have to adjust it like Stu did in the video. But I would first clean the carb and go from there.
Hey mate. There is nothing really to fear in rebuilding a carburettor, just take photos as you go and have a little bowl to put parts in to make sure you don't lose anything. Beyond that it is really just a cleaning job. You'll be fine. :)
Hi Dangar!,really nice and well explained video, i follow that to clean the 3 carbs on my evinrude VRO 60 hp 1998, ( only thing i thought strange you said to set the float between 28 - 41 mm down position... seems to be strange because on that range the float will be touching the bottom and i think doesn't make sense) . I adjusted the timing to the indicated 0 TDC and then prepare the engine to make the tunning, i warmed it and then place all idle screws 1 1/2 turn. I lost the original position for each carb valve.. and therefore perhaps now the vacuum is different in each... the main issue is that i cant find a proper adjust for the iddle screws, and the engine is going down when gear... when i start closing the lower idle screw, the engine almost do nothing even when it is full close... Can you please explain how to procedure for a proper tunning? appreciate a lot. Keep up the videos! are fantastic
This video is on tuning a four stroke, but the basic principles apply with regards to getting the highest RPM ruclips.net/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/видео.html If the RPM doesn't change with mixture screw adjustment it sounds like the circuit is blocked an needs cleaning. Those measurement for the float are form the edge of the top half of the carburettor with it turned upside down so it shouldn't be anywhere near touching the bottom of the bowl.
Thanks for your answer Dangar. Engine is running fine now. It was because i use other power pack with slightly different connectors than my engine so that they didn't fit well, but was enough to start the engine and run it.
I just clean the carbs on Johnson 60 1991 and when I start it up it reves up like a dirt bike, full throttle? I didn't adjust my floats but I think they were low like yours were until you leveled it, could that be my problem?
Thanks for posting this Stu. Another thing I’ll be doing to my 48 SPL when the weather is warmer. I see you didn’t have any welch plugs on your carb. That’s always been a source of debate for me. To remove them and clean under them or to leave them alone? I’ve pulled them out of carbs over the years and put them back in. But I’ve always wondered if pros remove them for cleaning and if it’s worth the extra time to do so? Enjoying the rehab on this engine. Looking forward to the next video!
Hey Jack. I did notice there were a lot of a welch plugs in the service kit but no need to use any of them. Good question about whether they should be removed for a thorough clean. I'm not too sure as I'm not that familiar with these carburettors, more the Yamaha style which don't have them at all.
Great videos and very helpful...a question. I have an Evinrude 737 25hp...I want to increase the hp to 40. Are the carbs the same? Can I just change the jets?...what size? any other mods needed. many thanks.
So I rebuilt my carbs on my Evinrude 40hp (1995) cheap enought for kit($12) my problem is the seat. The new one seems to big,and I don't want to force it because of the soft metal...so I reinstalled the old one. When I squeeze the primer bulb, gas comes out of the top of the bottom carb...not seating...
Sir, you seem very knowledgeable. I have a Johnson 50hp, a 2stroke. It looses power at full throttle. The carbs are identical to the one in this video. I have cleaned both carbs, checked the reed valves, and replaced the power pack. I have strong fuel pressure coming to both carbs. Great spark at both plugs. What am I missing?
Run a compression check. If cylinders are the same you could have a blown/leaking head gasket. If they are not the same you may still have a bad head gasket just not as severe. Worst case scenario would be a cracked block or head.
Hey hey. I have a 1989 Evinrude VRO 60hp. Something odd happened this weekend. Boat started right up. I took off from the launch and the engine die. I realized I forgot to hook up the fuel line. Once I hooked up the fuel, it flooded out immediately. After trying to start it for a half hour or so, I decided to disconnect the fuel. With the fuel line disconnected, the motor finally turned over! Ran perfectly as normal. I thought I was good to go, but as soon as I hooked up the fuel line it completely died. The boat ran top notch last weekend. Think this is carburetor or a VRO issue? I pulled the carbs. At first glance they look fine.
How would I find out what rebuild kit I will need for a 73 65 hp Johnson. I just bought boat and carb needs cleaning. Never done it before so looking for some advice. I've learned a good bit from your videos.
Should mention when adjusting the float not to use the needle and seat to bend the float higher. It is very tempting to just jam it against the seat to bend upwards.
I have a 1979 evinrude 35 hp, do you have a video covering the silencer box removal? I am trying to replace the starter and I can't get to the front screw.
I rebuilt the carbs on my Honda BF90A and it turned out that some of the low-speed emulsion tubes were cracked! These cracks can be difficult to see, and sometimes are only apparent when you blow carb cleaner through the tube (the cleaner blows out the side of the tube through the crack). So it's probably best with these old Hondas to replace the emulsion tubes.
You certainly have to look very closely at some parts to make sure there is nothing wrong with them. It's amazing how quickly a small crack in the wrong place can have a motor running very badly.
That’s nuts, that a company recognized for quality and technology would put a component in a recreational product with such a delicate failure mode. I was a supplier to Honda. Their engineers thought they were Gods. Gods my ass, my engineers found and fixed their screw ups. No charge, it was like we should not let them make mistakes. What a rotten business. Retired many years ago.
Hey mate, love your vids. Question - where do you source these kits in Aus? Marine Engine only ships within US... I live just up from you on the central coast. Cheers, Matt
I know your good at what you do but just in case be very careful with the starter bracket nut and side bolts they have plagued me. The stud will break the front crankcase..it's thin, ant the side bolts strip out so easy ask me how I know lol..also, if the throttle linkage..the 5/16 bolts back out it will fall a bit and hit the power in side on the cyl. Good times when you're out on the water.
I hear/feel your pain with these particular starter brackets.......ugh. The stud holding the carb next to the starter leaves nearly no choice than to remove the starter bracket. Along with the bearing clamps holding the control lever & the starter solenoid. The lower bolt on the starter bracket just BEGS to snap off the tab end. This bracket must get a bit dodgy by the time you do 3-4 carb jobs, or at least the bolts that run into the block. Good vid as always Stu👍👍
Hey Dangar any tips on cleaning Mercury/Tohatsu 4 stroke carbs? Have two 3.5hp Mercury 4 strokes, cleaned carbs several times, both hard to start and run poorly. Not my first carb cleaning, but Pro's say replace the carb, because orfices too small to clean well. At $250 a carb, thats a bit pricey for a small motor. Surely must be a way to soak them clean without damage. Never had any problems with 2 strokes. Love the vids , keep up the good work. Cheers!
Interesting to hear that they consider them too small to clean. I kinda get that as I've always had trouble with small power tools, but then again the carbs for them are about $25. Maybe an ultrasonic clean would be a good thing to try?
Dangar Help!! I've got a 2001 25HP Evinrude, 4 stroke, 3 cyl. Engine oil temp was going off, replaced sensor and also new water pump because it was worn. Now when running water enters all three carbs??? Oil temp light still comes on but takes much longer. Why is water flowing into carbs? If Cracked Block, how best to check?
Is there ever a time to replace the entire carb, instead of rebuilding or servicing? The problem I have is fuel starvation, persistent after two rebuilds by two different people. (water was in fuel line previously) I ask because a replacement is quite expensive and searching on the internet has not helped me answer this question. Thanks if you find the time to reply!
Yes, you can definitely get to that point. I was talking to someone the other day about carburettors getting blocked in a way that is almost impossible to clean, and sometimes things like the bushings for the butterfly valve can wear causing a vacuum leak etc.
The float valve on my 1980 Johnson 20/25 hp outboard carb #389463 has a rubber tip ? it was stuck lightly in the seat when I took the float off. Have you seen a rubber-tipped needle valve ? This motor wont start cold but runs and starts fine after shooting gas in the spark plug hole ??
Returning to shop to further carpenter my motor and carb now realizing the choke arm is unattached. Then studying the two springs wrapped around the front throttle linkage mounting axel. One hooked to the carb body while the outside one doing nothing, huh? With newfound confidence from You, Dangar, I popped the spring-leg back into the hole on the choke arm. Wow, now pulling the choke button will allow the spring to close the choke !! Many Thanks, Dangar Marine.
Okay Evinrude 50hp cleaned the carbs now I discovered that lower carb not getting enough fuel, tried blowing into fuel line with carb upside down can Barley blow any air in, top carb I can blow into it easily so I no the float works great, what could be the issue? I took it apart all seem normal. The top carb I can hear the float flaping around the lower carb can't get much sound out of it, Could the float be getting stuck inside the bowl?
I am happy so say I have no urgent work required on my Evinrude. But learning how to do a cab clean is in the radar. Awesome to be watching Dangar Marine video again. Love your work Stu!
Dangar Marine thank you for this video. It was EXTREMELY INSTRUMENTAL in me rebuilding the carbs on a 1985 Johnson 60hp. I am by no means a mechanic, but I literally could NOT have done it without your video. I can't thank you enough... Who knows how much $$$ you saved me. Keep up the great videos!!!
You're welcome Brandon, glad to have been able to help. :)
Lol
Found the problem, it was timing, the spring mechanism kept moving around. Carburetor works great
He talks all the way through the video and that’s great!! Goes slow and step by step explaining all the way!!
Glad you liked it!
I've been playing with all mechanical things since I could walk and I'm so grateful for doing what you do mate I've learnt so much
Quick tip for tools to work on Carbs with. Gunsmith screw driver/tools sets are great for working on sensitive brass parts like Carb Jets. The screwdriver bits are designed differently than normal screwdrivers... normal screwdriver flat head bits are tapered, Gunsmith flat heads have an even thickness shaft so are less likely skip out of the slot and damage the soft brass or other screws that hold the Carb together. Also, these sets (not advertising for them but the one I have is an 89 piece set from Wheeler Engineering) offer a lot of bit size choices so you can find the exact bit that fits snug and is correct width to fit into whatever Jet/screw you need and helps to prevent damage to them. Thanks for your videos, they have been very helpful! Watched your other videos on Carb tuning and helped me get my work boat back to working order and working quicker than if I had to go to a mechanic, thanks a lot!
Hey Martin, great tip about the screwdrivers, I'll check them out.
Thanks to your video I learned that my floats were installed upside down. It wouldn't get out of its own way. It seems obvious now that I installed them the right way. Take it easy on me. I've only been working on stuff like this for around forty years.
Great video. I have a request, could you make a video about symptoms. Like you'll know your carb needs cleaning if....or your float needs adjusted if ....
Thanks for all the helpful content.
I can see removing the starter for convenience. But do you have to remove the entire mounting assembly ??? Great video though, very easy to follow.
Take a photo of what you're dismantling as this helps when putting complex parts back together. If you are leaving the job for a couple of days its wise to put things back together hand tight. Stu your videos are great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome mate. Photos sure do help!
Hey Danger, I really appreciate the step by step. My Johnson 25hp stalls after I power down when arriving to dock. One marina just cleaned the carb but it still does the same thing. I opened up the fuel pump like in your video and discovered the same issues, broken cap and o-ring. Thanks for you input. Cheers
Excellent video! I bought a used Johnson 25hp outboard with electric start. It ran terribly! Decided to rebuild the carb and noticed someone had installed the float up side down! It was harder removing the starter to access the carb nut than it was rebuilding the carb! Thanks for a great video.
Thank you Stu, really help me fix up my old Johnson 25hp after it flatlined. Your videos are so helpful.
Used this to Rebuild carburetor x 2 ,55 evinrude commercial . Put it in the water yesterday 👌 this guys a legend 👍
Your video is one of the best I've ever watched. Your step by step instructions were very easy to understand.
Wow, thank you!
You do great videos Stu. Thank you for all the work you put in with these videos. You take the scare out of starting those bigger jobs. I got my junk 150 Force motor going with all the general information from your videos
Thanks Rick. Great to hear you got your motor running again!
Thanks for the video, I just rebuilt the carb on my 30hp Johnson and now it's running great. Appreciate the walk though!
Omg you're helpful. Got a running, new to me, old boat with an even older motor. These videos give me peace of mind that, with your instruction, I'll be able to fix things that may come up ohn the future, and perform done preventative maintenance.
Thanks dangar ! Couldn’t do it without your knowledge! You are a great instructor!
Glad to help
Thanks for all the great videos. I am trying to get a 1975 25 hp Johnson that was run in salt water. It has been setting up for 25 years and I am learning a lot from you. Thanks again
You're welcome. :)
Hahaha. 26 seconds into the video and I’m already lost. 😄 Starting with “I’ve already removed the...” probably wasn’t the beginning I was hoping for. 😬😂
Videos really been helping me out find a problem with my 1990 johnson 28 spl..i think im having a carb problem..itll start up run but onece i put it in forward gear then try to accelerate it dies..any pointers??
Awesome video Stu.
I bought an Evinrude 30hp last week, it ran fine for the 3hr cruise home but now has a rough idle I suspect from picking up crud from the bottom of the tank (it got choppy 20minutes from home) first thing to do is is clean the carb (and tank, filter, plugs etc etc) but atleast now I have a comprehensive guide as to what I'm doing.
Nice video and work. Do you know what the 2 numbers inside carb represent? Located just below emulsion tube, one number above the other. 334 375. A different carb that looks identical has 332, 562. I’m trying a different eBay carb on my 28spl.
Thank you.
That video was super useful! Thanks for walking through everything slowly and explaining thoroughly!
Great video, you dumbed it down perfectly for me.
I almost can't wait till my carbs need cleaning so I can try it. I might have to put sugar in my own gas tank.
One of the best videos ever. Your explanation is perfect. Thank you very much.
This is exactly the video I needed to get my engine running! Thank you!!!
In regards to the idle mixture screw, what would be the best way to know where the screw should be set?
This video is going to be my tutor through the process this coming weekend. I have a 78 35hp Johnson with the same parts number. Thanks very much for this video. I’ll be filming a bit of it and reference this video.
You're welcome mate.
Yes, back in 78 the engine HP was rated at the flywheel. This engine is around a 1993 or so that this guy is working on, and by then they rated it at the propshaft. Since about 5hp is lost between the flywheel and the propshaft, a 35 in 1978 is the same engine as a 30 in 1993 because your 78 only has about 30 propshaft horsepower.
Checking in from Detroit Michigan USA suburb! Great vid mate. Learned a lot about carbs and I am looking to rebuild my first carburetor soon!!
Good luck!
Now that I own a 33 year old outboard I'm your biggest fan.
That's a good run for an outboard!
@@DangarMarine Yes I reckon she's got another 33 years in her no problem ;)
Thanks so much, was rebuilding my carb and never would have seen the main jet on the bottom of the bowl if not for your vid!
Only thing I would add is on older carbs, check the butterfly shaft for excessive play before you order any parts. Most of the butterfly shafts run 'plain bearing' in the body of the carb and once they get to a loose fit the carb is often considered 'worn out. No one sells a bush kit for these carbs, but any decent machinist can make a set of bushes and ream the carb body to fit the bushes and so return the butterfly shaft to a decent air tight seal.
Yes, once those shafts get flogged out they can become another vacuum leak.
YOU ARE AMAZING !!! Thank you for all of your very helpful videos.....keep up the great work
You are so welcome!
I'm getting into a knew hobi learning everything obout outboards thankyou dangar you bring me great knowledge.
Thanks for this: it was a great help when I did my Johnson 50 carbs.
Thanks for another helpful video , my 30hp is almost ready for a water run cheers
You're welcome Andrew, good luck with the first run!
Excellent video and well presented. the mixture screw on my 30hp Evinrude required 5 1/2 revolutions out before engine would run sweet. thanks Stu
Thanks mate. Interesting to hear where yours needed to be at.
EXCELLENT VIDIO, in regard to changing the jets for altitude ,who would provide that info.?At 4000 ft. what size jets are recommended.
I like to clean the carburetors with an ultrasonic cleaner. A little bit of Degreaser some water turn the heater on right it for a few minutes and it usually comes up good.
I'd like to play with an ultrasonic carb cleaner one day.
Thanks for this. My 1986 force has fuel running out of the bottom two carbs. This will help a lot once I get the kits in the mail.
Anybody know how to get the needle seat out and back in these carbs
Can you please help me i have jhonson 30hp pls help me want start again before all good but we make like a hour driving and then just stop and we cant start again
Love the videos, can the emulsion tube parts be replaced?
"Hollow Ground" screwdriver tips. they will prevent brass or aluminum distortion , the flat blade driver will almost always mark up and nick the fittings or fasteners.......
Video deserves 1 million likes....
Thanks mate.
First off. Very good video. Quality is top notch. Did I miss the part where you replaced the freeze plugs? I also can't find the idle mixture screw. Could it be hidden? I'd like to use as many parts from the rebuild kit as possible. For whatever reason the new seat from the kit doesn't thread all the way in like the old seat. Yep, starting to regret taking on this repair. New float looks different. Same but different. Not sure if it's okay to use it. UPDATE: I used parts from the kit that I felt comfortable using that included. Needle, bowl gasket, pickup tube o ring, drain plug o ring, seat o ring and float rod that connects the float to the carb body. I really wanted to do a complete rebuild but some parts from the kit just weren't compatible. The aftermarket float looked like it will work but I didn't want to chance it. My advice is to purchase a repair manual if you are serious about doing this rebuild as I'm sure the manual is much more thorough. Parts I didn't or couldn't use from the kit were freeze plugs that I think need pressed in, seat that had different thread pattern, various other plastic parts that I assume are somewhere hidden within the carb.
This video was tremendously helpful! My 6hp tiller motor would bog down when I gave it any throttle in forward or reverse. I followed this cleaning procedure and it now runs great in forward and reverse! I noticed that every couple of times I put it in neutral, it would rev to max throttle and stay there even though I didn't touch it. It wasn't doing that before and wonder if it is a linkage issue or I somehow introduced a vacuum leak? Thanks again!
It could well be a sticking throttle plate. They aren't always hard linked so you can close the throttle but the spring won't return the throttle plate straight away.
Great job ..can't wait till it runs...James in Houston, Texas
Thanks James, I'm looking forward to getting this one up and running too.
Would have loved to see you setting the timing on that outboard. Mines way out and cant seem to find how to adjust it.
love your work stu, especially with a brewskie next to it
Great video as always mate.
I am still scared shiteless starting this on my Johnson 90 V4 - 4 times the opportunity for screwup.. 😳.
Excellent training for my two Johnson 40 carbs. Thanks for sharing!
Seems related, pls help. Every diagram I have found shows a core plug instead of a screen on this carburetor side vent. My carburetor has a screen instead. The rebuild kit I bought has core plugs that would fit this but no screens. In fact no website including Johnson/Evinrude sells these screens. There is a big difference between core plugs and screens. The opposite of the carb has a similar vent with a factory installed screen. Part number 4 on this diagram is what I’m talking about. Why the discrepancy?
I have a Eslene 28 spl 1992
Any marine mechanic that makes a how-to video with a bottle of beer on the table with him has my business.
I just picked up a tracker boat with a 93 Evinrude 40 hp. I did a cold compression test before doing a lake test & compression on top cylinder was 150 & bottom was 149. Did fine at the lake, but idles a little low & takes a little bit to get warmed up. Do those compression numbers seem too high? I trust my gauge but just seems high to me now that i think about it. Motor appears ot be pretty low hours & not used much over the Years
Very thorough video. What ever happened to the shop anyhow? Have you moved out all together or going back after Renko is finished?
Great videos! I recently purchased a 91 ranger with a 150 mercury black max, the dealer replaced the fuel lines. I was going to put a water separator on an noticed the diameter of the lines are 5/16, Are these too small? Do I need 3/8? Great videos!
Hi William, generally you would have 3/8 hose on a 150HP motor like that.
Great Video's you have helped me out a lot. After changing power pack, coils, plugs, wires, carb kit, fuel pump my 1990 25hp johnson surges/pulsates when at full throttle? Any suggestion on why its doing that. Thanks. D
TOTALLY GUESSING but maybe old fuel line? Had that issue once line was collapsing on the inside causing it to starve for fuel at WOT.
I’ve learnt so much from this guy.
Great video, it gave me the courage to tackle my two carbs on my 2000 year model 50 hp Johnson. I have a question. My outboard is equipped with the VRO2 unit that supplies both oil and gas to the carbs. Someone has bypassed the oil pump part and I just mix my own gas and oil. Can you put a regular fuel pump on this engine or an electric fuel pump so I can remove the old VRO 2 unit? If so, what pump do you recommend. You're video gave me the knowledge and the courage to be able to do this job. I will be doing the reassemble tonight. Thanks for your help from down under.
I have a 1969 Johnson outboard 2 stroke it runs good but it hesitate off idle to going full throttle. Should I just rebuild the carburetor or just clean the inside out or just the fuel bowl? That's again Kyle
Could you tell me if it has some kind of relenti? Thanks the video is excellent
I’ve been working on a 1984 Evinrude 35 hp I’ve been thru the fuel system twice rebuilt the fuel pump carb looked like someone had already been thru it good compression and appears good spark on cranking it will start and run for about 20 seconds and die float bowl is full of fuel I don’t know maybe it’s running to rich but it will only start after I hit the primer I’d say it’s starving for fuel or it’s losing spark
your vids are fantastic, thanks for taking the time to make them. I have a 1983 johnson 70hp 3 cyl. When I idle around for a minute or 2 and then add throttle the engine cuts out. when I pump the throttle (with engine running) it will continue to bog down, so I put the throttle down, take it off, on, off, on off until it takes off. Any ideas? I have cleaned all the carbs, and I have just rebuilt and replaced all seals and gaskets, I have also replaced the fuel pump. thanks in advance!
It sounds like a carb problem but if you are 100% they are fine I would look if the reed valves are sealing properly and do a compression test.
@@DangarMarine I'll pull the reed valves and take a look. that's the first time that has been suggested to me! thanks for your reply
@@TheHowtoDad Was it the reed valves? Having the same issue with my 93 60hp. Sometimes when it hesitates if I push the key in to choke it will boost it up on plane.
@@JJJTaylors reed valve were fine. Seems to be a fuel delivery problem somewhere...ive rebuilt the carbs, I'm going to replace all the fuel lines next, but a no go on the reed valves
@@JJJTaylors having the same issue!
Curious if you folks run ethanol. Here in the states the government has decided to subsidize the farmers by requiring refineries to produce ethanol. You can find non-ethanol fuel here but it is not very common and you have to hunt for it. When you tear down a carb here you often find a white powdery substance resembling corn starch. It can really cause trouble throughout the fuel system but but it ultimately show up in the carb. It also creates allot of trouble with water in the fuel. Great video.
Greg Stephens Yeah Ethanol sucks especially for carbureted motors. When I see hardened ethanol it has always been a yellow/orange color. Usually white powder is corrosion.
White/red is corrosion - after the ethanol evaporates the water remains and kicks off the corrosion, and then the water eventually evaporates. the colour difference is simply what metal has reacted with the water. White is aluminum , red is steel ( usually in a float bowl that is the float hinge pin) , yellow is usually brass/aluminum electrolytic reaction residue. None of that stuff is any good. If you have to use ethanol - or suspect it- use a fuel stabiliser to save your time.
Ron Powell Hey Ron the stuff I was talking about was in the fuel line. I know the plastic lining goes bad and breaks down. When I cut the hose apart there was hardened yellow/orange (looked like earwax) inside. This was when I first bought the boat from a person who claimed only non ethanol gas was used. Plus he did not have a fuel/water separator and I drained the fuel and of course it contained water😉 Do you think the hard chunks were just the plastic and was yellow from the main line fuel fitting?
Hi jimbo- quite likely that yellow or white 'chunky' or flakes of stuff are the PTFE or 'plastic' inner lining of the fuel hose breaking down. Note that you can get water in non ethanol fuel as well. That water can be from the servo tank condensate, plain old rain water running into the servo tank when it is being filled - or just the refill lid leaking- and also condensation in the fuel bowl of the carb ( hot engine - water stay evaporated, engine cools or cold fuel enters carb, water condenses. carbs have to be vented to atmosphere to work so you cant stop it from happening. Good practice is to just just undo the carb drains and let the bowls drain out completely once or twice a season, and use a stabiliser in your fuel every fill. And of course, ditch that fuel line for some automotive rated , non lined , fuel hose.
Yes we have ethanol fuel here. But only the people that dont think use it. We have max 10% (E10) and 85% (E85) available , plus 87, 91, 95 and 98 RON , but often E10, 95 and 98 only though. the main issue is that E10 in cars gives you a lower range compared to 91RON by about 8% (surprise) but E10 is only 3-4cents cheaper. At $1.44 a litre for 91, and $1:40 for E10, you are not paying 10% less for E10, so the net effect is you are paying more per kilometre to use E10.
Our fuel is dyed specific colours so you can tell what fuel is what and often yellows/red/green or blue 'powders' in fuel bowls indicates aluminium corrosion that has been coloured by the fuel dye as the fuel dries out.
As every one knows , the ethanol in itself is not really a problem. But the hydroscopic nature means it sucks up any water it can- from the air, condensation etc- and retains teh water until the ethanol becomes saturated. And that water makes teh ethanol a poor fuel calory wise. Plus, once sturated , any more water presented will cause seperation to occur and that is when you get the sudden 'bowl full of water' happen.
Hey mate, This is such a helpful video and channel. (subbed with notifications). I have a question, my carburettor (same motor as video) has nothing covering the front of it where there are 3 unused bolt holes. Is that right or should there be some sort of breather box? My cousin has an almost identical motor that has a plastic cover/box with a dial on it marked rich or lean.
STU...You make rebuilding a carb look so easy... I’m good with tools and my hands and I’m a maintenance technician at a local factory ... is it silly that I’m hesitant to attempt carb rebuilds ?... I’m more worried about getting the 2 carbs linked and sinked back together .. I’ve never worked on one so it’s intimidating
You don't need to worry about that. If the motor is running good, no syncing is required. Just count the turns of the screw. But you don't have to even remove it. Just spray carb cleaner and compressed air through it. It's better to remove and cleaned but not required. Same with the float. If it's ok, there is no adjustment needed. Just remove it to clean the area and put it back. Once you do it once you will see it's not that hard.
jimbo gasoline thanks jimbo gasoline .. yea it runs fine but has a leak on one of the carbs.. and when I put it in the water as soon as I put it in gear it shuts off.. I’m assuming from the lack of fuel
pimpshack81 whichever carb is leaking probably has a float stuck. I'd open it up, clean it, check and see If the float has any holes, and see If the float pin is in place. You can turn the carb upside down and with your mouth blow air in it. You should not be able to if the float is correct. You may have to adjust it like Stu did in the video. But I would first clean the carb and go from there.
Hey mate. There is nothing really to fear in rebuilding a carburettor, just take photos as you go and have a little bowl to put parts in to make sure you don't lose anything. Beyond that it is really just a cleaning job. You'll be fine. :)
pimpshack81 I'm 115 Johnson boardroom years made
Thanks for your experience man did what you said and my envinrude 15hp is working like New thanks all the way from the Caribbean Trinidad
Glad to hear it is working well again. Would love to visit Trinidad one day! :)
I wish you had given us a better look at that 2nd measurement and what exactly you were measuring
Hi Dangar!,really nice and well explained video, i follow that to clean the 3 carbs on my evinrude VRO 60 hp 1998, ( only thing i thought strange you said to set the float between 28 - 41 mm down position... seems to be strange because on that range the float will be touching the bottom and i think doesn't make sense) . I adjusted the timing to the indicated 0 TDC and then prepare the engine to make the tunning, i warmed it and then place all idle screws 1 1/2 turn. I lost the original position for each carb valve.. and therefore perhaps now the vacuum is different in each... the main issue is that i cant find a proper adjust for the iddle screws, and the engine is going down when gear... when i start closing the lower idle screw, the engine almost do nothing even when it is full close... Can you please explain how to procedure for a proper tunning? appreciate a lot. Keep up the videos! are fantastic
This video is on tuning a four stroke, but the basic principles apply with regards to getting the highest RPM ruclips.net/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/видео.html
If the RPM doesn't change with mixture screw adjustment it sounds like the circuit is blocked an needs cleaning. Those measurement for the float are form the edge of the top half of the carburettor with it turned upside down so it shouldn't be anywhere near touching the bottom of the bowl.
Thanks for your answer Dangar. Engine is running fine now. It was because i use other power pack with slightly different connectors than my engine so that they didn't fit well, but was enough to start the engine and run it.
your videos are very informitive keep up the good service!
Thanks mate, glad they are helpful.
I just clean the carbs on Johnson 60 1991 and when I start it up it reves up like a dirt bike, full throttle? I didn't adjust my floats but I think they were low like yours were until you leveled it, could that be my problem?
Great informative video! I can't wait for it to warm up on my side of the pond, cold here in New Jersey US, thanks again.
I left NJ (Hopatcong) 3 yrs ago. where ya from?
southern new jersey Cape May.
I was up top. Cheers
john I need help my Johnson. 90 hp 2005 rpm max is 2000 and it will bog down when I accelerate please help
Ever make a video tuning the carb?
Do you have a video that covers how to set the throttle lever and links back together?
Thanks for posting this Stu. Another thing I’ll be doing to my 48 SPL when the weather is warmer. I see you didn’t have any welch plugs on your carb. That’s always been a source of debate for me. To remove them and clean under them or to leave them alone? I’ve pulled them out of carbs over the years and put them back in. But I’ve always wondered if pros remove them for cleaning and if it’s worth the extra time to do so? Enjoying the rehab on this engine. Looking forward to the next video!
Hey Jack. I did notice there were a lot of a welch plugs in the service kit but no need to use any of them. Good question about whether they should be removed for a thorough clean. I'm not too sure as I'm not that familiar with these carburettors, more the Yamaha style which don't have them at all.
I used those tri head plug for VW golf helped fire better I think. Wires are rarely a problem unless there 20 years old.
Amazing amount of knowledge, brilliant!
You just might have given me the resources to fix my old 70’s 55hp Johnson 😅👌
Like the way you do your vids...you have helped me a bunch.your vids sre easier to follow than most
Glad to help
Great videos and very helpful...a question. I have an Evinrude 737 25hp...I want to increase the hp to 40. Are the carbs the same? Can I just change the jets?...what size? any other mods needed. many thanks.
So I rebuilt my carbs on my Evinrude 40hp (1995) cheap enought for kit($12) my problem is the seat. The new one seems to big,and I don't want to force it because of the soft metal...so I reinstalled the old one. When I squeeze the primer bulb, gas comes out of the top of the bottom carb...not seating...
Great video. Very helpful. But what the heck is that jug of Hydrochloric acid on your bench for?
Removing corrosion.
Sir, you seem very knowledgeable. I have a Johnson 50hp, a 2stroke. It looses power at full throttle. The carbs are identical to the one in this video. I have cleaned both carbs, checked the reed valves, and replaced the power pack. I have strong fuel pressure coming to both carbs. Great spark at both plugs. What am I missing?
Run a compression check. If cylinders are the same you could have a blown/leaking head gasket. If they are not the same you may still have a bad head gasket just not as severe. Worst case scenario would be a cracked block or head.
I've never seen a Johnson 50 with two carbs.
Ok boss, good vid. Although my 40hp evinrude has 2 carbs that I just cleaned. How do I adjust them to sing together?. Tx always for your input
These two videos should help ruclips.net/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/NnotQmnKxKM/видео.html
Hey hey. I have a 1989 Evinrude VRO 60hp. Something odd happened this weekend. Boat started right up. I took off from the launch and the engine die. I realized I forgot to hook up the fuel line. Once I hooked up the fuel, it flooded out immediately. After trying to start it for a half hour or so, I decided to disconnect the fuel. With the fuel line disconnected, the motor finally turned over! Ran perfectly as normal. I thought I was good to go, but as soon as I hooked up the fuel line it completely died. The boat ran top notch last weekend. Think this is carburetor or a VRO issue? I pulled the carbs. At first glance they look fine.
How would I find out what rebuild kit I will need for a 73 65 hp Johnson. I just bought boat and carb needs cleaning. Never done it before so looking for some advice. I've learned a good bit from your videos.
Should mention when adjusting the float not to use the needle and seat to bend the float higher. It is very tempting to just jam it against the seat to bend upwards.
Yes indeed. I find holding the float up off the seat a bit helps with that but a good point well worth mentioning.
I have a 1979 evinrude 35 hp, do you have a video covering the silencer box removal? I am trying to replace the starter and I can't get to the front screw.
I rebuilt the carbs on my Honda BF90A and it turned out that some of the low-speed emulsion tubes were cracked! These cracks can be difficult to see, and sometimes are only apparent when you blow carb cleaner through the tube (the cleaner blows out the side of the tube through the crack). So it's probably best with these old Hondas to replace the emulsion tubes.
You certainly have to look very closely at some parts to make sure there is nothing wrong with them. It's amazing how quickly a small crack in the wrong place can have a motor running very badly.
That’s nuts, that a company recognized for quality and technology would put a component in a recreational product with such a delicate failure mode. I was a supplier to Honda. Their engineers thought they were Gods. Gods my ass, my engineers found and fixed their screw ups. No charge, it was like we should not let them make mistakes. What a rotten business. Retired many years ago.
Hey mate, love your vids. Question - where do you source these kits in Aus? Marine Engine only ships within US... I live just up from you on the central coast.
Cheers, Matt
I know your good at what you do but just in case be very careful with the starter bracket nut and side bolts they have plagued me. The stud will break the front crankcase..it's thin, ant the side bolts strip out so easy ask me how I know lol..also, if the throttle linkage..the 5/16 bolts back out it will fall a bit and hit the power in side on the cyl. Good times when you're out on the water.
Sounds like you've certainly had your battles with these motors.
I hear/feel your pain with these particular starter brackets.......ugh. The stud holding the carb next to the starter leaves nearly no choice than to remove the starter bracket. Along with the bearing clamps holding the control lever & the starter solenoid. The lower bolt on the starter bracket just BEGS to snap off the tab end. This bracket must get a bit dodgy by the time you do 3-4 carb jobs, or at least the bolts that run into the block. Good vid as always Stu👍👍
This is not about the carb. But I have a 35hp 1976 Johnson outboard I would like to know if you can tell me where I would install a pee tab on it?
Hey Dangar any tips on cleaning Mercury/Tohatsu 4 stroke carbs? Have two 3.5hp Mercury 4 strokes, cleaned carbs several times, both hard to start and run poorly. Not my first carb cleaning, but Pro's say replace the carb, because orfices too small to clean well. At $250 a carb, thats a bit pricey for a small motor. Surely must be a way to soak them clean without damage. Never had any problems with 2 strokes. Love the vids , keep up the good work. Cheers!
Interesting to hear that they consider them too small to clean. I kinda get that as I've always had trouble with small power tools, but then again the carbs for them are about $25. Maybe an ultrasonic clean would be a good thing to try?
Awesome video mate! Out here saving lives haha. Question tho, the link you set up is for overseas, where can I get these parts in AUS?
In Australia I tend to just go to the local dealers for whichever outboard brand it is.
Super! do you have video for how to change the idle lever (throttle) for Johnson 1970 40ESL70?Thanks so much
Dangar Help!! I've got a 2001 25HP Evinrude, 4 stroke, 3 cyl. Engine oil temp was going off, replaced sensor and also new water pump because it was worn. Now when running water enters all three carbs???
Oil temp light still comes on but takes much longer. Why is water flowing into carbs?
If Cracked Block, how best to check?
Is there ever a time to replace the entire carb, instead of rebuilding or servicing? The problem I have is fuel starvation, persistent after two rebuilds by two different people. (water was in fuel line previously) I ask because a replacement is quite expensive and searching on the internet has not helped me answer this question. Thanks if you find the time to reply!
Yes, you can definitely get to that point. I was talking to someone the other day about carburettors getting blocked in a way that is almost impossible to clean, and sometimes things like the bushings for the butterfly valve can wear causing a vacuum leak etc.
The float valve on my 1980 Johnson 20/25 hp outboard carb #389463 has a rubber tip ? it was stuck lightly in the seat when I took the float off. Have you seen a rubber-tipped needle valve ? This motor wont start cold but runs and starts fine after shooting gas in the spark plug hole ??
Yes, rubber tipped needle is very common. Sounds like a problem with the enrichment mechanism (choke etc) or possibly a reed valve problem.
Returning to shop to further carpenter my motor and carb now realizing the choke arm is unattached. Then studying the two springs wrapped around the front throttle linkage mounting axel. One hooked to the carb body while the outside one doing nothing, huh? With newfound confidence from You, Dangar, I popped the spring-leg back into the hole on the choke arm. Wow, now pulling the choke button will allow the spring to close the choke !! Many Thanks, Dangar Marine.
Hey Stu, quick question, if my Johnson 60hp has two carbs, I would need two of the carb repair kits? Would appreciate a response
It depends. Check the contents of the kit. It may come with enough parts for both carburettors it may not.
I would suggest cleaning off the old gasket between carb and block BEFORE disassembling and cleaning the carb.
Okay Evinrude 50hp cleaned the carbs now I discovered that lower carb not getting enough fuel, tried blowing into fuel line with carb upside down can Barley blow any air in, top carb I can blow into it easily so I no the float works great, what could be the issue? I took it apart all seem normal. The top carb I can hear the float flaping around the lower carb can't get much sound out of it, Could the float be getting stuck inside the bowl?
Tx for the input. Your vids are well made and very helpful.
Great video as always. Thanks! Guessing this carburetor is similar to the 15hp evinrude 2-stroke, just bigger in size?
Yes, very similar in principle.