ZeroG Mercury 1 Mod for Ender 5 Plus
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- This is a serial request from Zero G for my build of the Mercury 1 CoreXY for the Ender 5+.
Sample printer.cfg - drive.google.c...
Voron Afterburner - Offset 2.8 Mount - www.thingivers...
This allows you to use the Voron defined Probe without having to trim the probe mount. Also 2 linear rails reduce vibration on fast acceleration IMHO.
Linear Rails (x2) 450mm - www.amazon.com...
Linear Rail Y (x2) 450mm - www.amazon.com...
This machine is using a SKR Mini E3V2 with 2209s and sensor less homing for X, Y and Z. Z probe is the stop for Z. Klipper and Octoprint.
Many thanks to Dutchdude and the gang on Discord for their help.
Learn more at - zerogdesign.gi...
Discord - / discord
Wow, thanks for sharing. I have been thinking of altering my 5 plus to a core XY, and glad to see some has already done this. I was just looking at the Voron Trident and wondering if that same gantry could be modified to fit into the 5 plus. Now with the mercury I have two potential options to move with.
I already have the afterburner with linier rails. I also have a TH3d main board with ABL. So thanks again for sharing.
Dang this looks really good I have an ender 5 plus and was looking at voron kits.
I've now just finished my second Ender 5+ migration to ZeroG / Mercury1. Just ran the accelerometer for input shaping. I also have parts to a 2.4 Voron sitting in boxes. So the addiction is an addiction. Chasing FDM perfection....
@@almonster2066 The only problem I've got is my Z axis screws are bent so it screeches whenever it moves Z down - they sent me new one from China, that was just as bent. I don't want to spend lots of time and money on a "base" printer that is faulty :-/
@@MrButuz Get Delrin trapesoid nuts that work with Prusa MK3s. They have the same stats. That will solve your noise problem. I switched mine over and they work great.
@@MrButuz screeches is low on lube, i bought and sold 3 ender 5 plus all of them made it going down, got some lube going, all of them stopped, a little bend in the lead screw is normal (a little)
nice :D
i see you used my modded upper Fan Shroud :D
Hi almonster. Did you need 3 450mm Linear Rails or 4? I am asking because you are showing that 4 are needed, but in other posts they say only 3 are needed. Thanks!
It depends on what you want to use as a hot end. If you use Voron Afterburner, it previously required 2 MGN9H rails. If you use EVA or the new Stealthburner, you will use 1 MGN12H rail. So you will need 2 for Y and 1 or 2 for X depending upon which hot end you choose to go with. They would all be 450 in length for the 5 Plus.
Im really trying to wrap my head around the point of this. I have not seen a single one moving at speeds that make the work worth it. My Exoslides and stock machine go faster than 90% of the zeroGs i have seen on youtube. My assumption is the printed parts and external mounting of the motion system.... Can anyone explain? Cause was looking at doing a coreXY mod but this one isnt impressing me sofar....
That's driven by the slicer. Using BBL or Orca, the default profiles are much faster and the quality is very good. Voron good. If you already have Exoslide, there's no need for this. When you want a real upgrade - get a BambuLab X1C.
Hi almonster I also want to upgrade my ender 5 plus to an corexy printer. and my question is what harware did you use to build this setup? Do you have a list of components (linear rail (length), pulleys, dowel pins, bearings, etc)?
The drawings have all the parts you need. For the Ender 5+ you will need 450mm linear rails. If you use my Afterburger (factory Voron) - you will need MGN9H at 450mm.
You can download it here - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury
Their Discord is also super helpful - discord.com/invite/gzJP2s8
There's now a kit here - www.fabreeko.com/products/mercury-one-kit?_pos=1&_sid=36cf1c432&_ss=r
Hey, is your printbed bigger than on an standard ender 5 plus?
No same build volume 350x350x400. I'm updating to the new Stealth Burner with a 5015 fan. One thing is true, the old After Burner did suffer some cooling issues when printing fast - 150mm/s +.
@@almonster2066 thx for the answer, i hve seen one build from regular ender 5 where the build plate have gone up from 230x230 to 310x310. i would love to have en build volume off 400x400x250, i don't need much height. Currently looking in to the documentation for this build, figuring out, do i start with a ender 5 and replace most of the parts, or scratch build one.
@@johndemeyer4613 Join the discord channel from this page - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury
so what exactly is the benefits of this mod? over a stocl E5pro
CoreXY motion is very exact so you have no slop as in the factory motion system. CoreXy also allows you to print very fast 200 to 300 mm/s outer walls and acceleration at 10K to 12K. The ouput quality is so much better than the old 5 Plus.
I’m curious to hear your thoughts on the cable chain system and it’s effect if any on the gantry? Is weight an issue? Effects on speed/accel? Binding?
I just picked up an Ender 5 pro and want to convert to a Corexy system with dual z motors. The single z lead-screw supported bed has more sag than I care to print with. Ultimately I plan to enclose and print abs/asa.
Awesome build sir. Really clean.
The spec for this copies the Voron dual chain where you have 1 chain for X and 1 for Y. Since the original also had all the wires to the hot end encased in a cable sleeve, it's a bit heavier but in reality the weight is distributed between the Afterburner mount and the tower in the rear. The quality coming out of the printer is really good. I am still tuning it since I only finished it a couple of days ago. I just received my AXL345 accelerometers and will be working on that next to see how much faster I can print with it. I have cable chains on my other CoreXY as well done in the same way.
Also, no binding. You have to pick a direction which the chain will prefer to bend left or right. I have the exact same orientation and setup on another CoreXY and that one has been running for a year or so.
What Material did you use for your printed parts?
I used Formfutura Titan X ABS which lets you print ABS with no enclosure with little to no warping. Works great. However, I would also suggest eSun ABS+, it seems to print just as good and much cheaper. I am doing my Voron Stealthburner in eSun ABS+.
Hi, just a quick question how is the belt tension done.
The front towers have a heat set inside. You tighten the front idlers using the screw that goes through to the heat set in the idler "towers". Once you have the tension you want 110hz then you lock it down with the M5 screw to a T-nut inside the rail. It works great, easy to do and holds tension with no issues. I probably have a couple hundred hours on this mod already and working like a champ. The Ender 5+ could never do what this printer is doing now. The print output is amazingly good and the movements are very precise. Klipper also helps a lot through input shaping and pressure advance. Marlin needs to catch up.
@@almonster2066 cheers for the reply, I've read the manual now as well :)
Great set up that you did. I also like your cable chain I would like one too, is that one you made? and would you share with others. thanks
Here you go - www.printables.com/model/230884-mercury-1-mod-files-for-voron-afterburner-and-cabl
why are you printing this slow, is this first print after the mod?
Yes, test print. This machine has been torn down and updated again with v 1.1.5 files and Hydra bed. Use Orca Slicer - it's simply the best out there.
Is it direct drive?
Yes, it utilizes a Voron Afterburner tool head.
I want it on my ender 5+
It was an Ender 5+.