![almonster2066](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 17
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almonster2066
Добавлен 29 дек 2010
ZeroG - Print Start Walkthrough Part 2
2nd half of the walk through. I accidentally stopped the other video by accident.
Files are here: www.printables.com/model/560268-voron-stealthburner-xy-axis-joints-for-zerog-mercu
Files are here: www.printables.com/model/560268-voron-stealthburner-xy-axis-joints-for-zerog-mercu
Просмотров: 68
Видео
ZeroG - Print Start Walkthrough
Просмотров 7010 месяцев назад
A walkthrough of my ZeroG/Merc1/Hydra build with Beacon probe. Files are here - www.printables.com/model/560268-voron-stealthburner-xy-axis-joints-for-zerog-mercu
Mercury 1 Build + Voron Stealth Burner
Просмотров 3,6 тыс.2 года назад
Another CoreXY conversion build using the ZeroG/Mercury 1. These mod files are available on their Github linked below. Also linked are my files used for the same build but using 2 MGN9H rails and the Voron Afterburner. Github - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury My Mod files for Afterburner - www.printables.com/model/230884-mercury-1-mod-files-for-voron-afterburner-and-cabl Single 10x20 mount for V...
2022 The Summit - CLEO - Not every day can be a great day
Просмотров 2012 года назад
Keep pushing even if you fall. Not every day can be a win.
SecKit Go Printer - Why it SUCKS. Don't waste your money!
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.2 года назад
After watching Teaching Tech's video about this SecKit Go2 printer and raving that this was the best printer he had to date, I bought one. Well, it turns out the guy that owns SecKit ships the cheapest parts possible and the machine was just crap. I was running Marlin on this and because of the poor CoreXY design, it could never print fast. If you had it print about 100mm/s - you get all sorts ...
Weird Klipper Pauses
Просмотров 5502 года назад
Running Octoprint and Klipper on a RiPi3B and printing outers at 200mm/s. SKR Mini E3V2 is the driver board with 2209s. However, the printer seems to pause waiting. WTF is it doing? FIXED - When using Octoprint, Klipper will outrun Octoprint's feed to Klipper forcing Klipper to pause. Adding the below will change Klipper to buffer more so the stuttering from Octoprint is resolved. Add the below...
Fortnite Star Trek - Original Series - Phaser MK2
Просмотров 902 года назад
This is my Fortnite inspired Star Trek Phaser MK2. Great for hitting a Star Trek convention or just walking around the neighborhood showing off your Trekkie skills. It's available here - www.etsy.com/listing/1102916971/star-trek-the-original-series-phaser-mk2
ZeroG Mercury 1 - CoreXY Ender 5 Plus Mod - Layer Quality
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.2 года назад
The Mercury 1 and Voron Afterburner generate amazing print quality. My printer is just completed with only some minor tuning for pressure advance and the layers are simply FREAKING amazing. Beats my Prusa Mk3S ! And WAY better than stock Creality. .2 layer height / SunLU Gray PLA. My other Ender 5 will be getting a tear down as soon as some parts arrive. To learn more - github.com/ZeroGDesign/M...
Mercury 1 - ZeroG - CoreXY Mod for Ender 5 and Ender 5+
Просмотров 9 тыс.2 года назад
Amazing mod and so worth it. The Voron Afterburner adds a level of quality I couldn't get from the factory Ender 5 . The Mercury 1 CoreXY adds so much control over the motion that the initial prints look great. This printer only received flow tuning and pressure advance. Input shaping has not been completed yet. This printer is running Klipper and Octoprint. The only thing factory from Creality...
ZeroG Mercury 1 Mod for Ender 5 Plus
Просмотров 11 тыс.2 года назад
This is a serial request from Zero G for my build of the Mercury 1 CoreXY for the Ender 5 . Sample printer.cfg - drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RN4zYJxb0FcHfbb4ZN2VI2yQzNDt-Yl3?usp=sharing Voron Afterburner - Offset 2.8 Mount - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5002991 This allows you to use the Voron defined Probe without having to trim the probe mount. Also 2 linear rails reduce vibration on fast ac...
Craftbot 3 - Build Plate Warped (Straight out of the box)
Просмотров 5744 года назад
Craftbot 3 - Build Plate Warped (Straight out of the box)
Silicon Valley Elite - Blue 2 | 2019 The D2 Summit - Finals
Просмотров 65 тыс.5 лет назад
Silicon Valley Elite - Blue 2 | 2019 The D2 Summit - Finals
if you don't mind me asking, what are your accelerations?
so whatever the latest Version of the stealthburner will work? with the linked files?
Im getting ready to start building a 5plus Murcury one.1 and wanting to put a stealthburner on it any chance you can point me in the right direction for files to aclomplish this ? going to be useing a Orbiter V2.0 and a Rapido HF eventualy want to add Canbus
💐 "PromoSM"
Please did you use any modifications due to mounting the Rail on the sideway of the X axis rod? In the original, the position is at the top - so if I want to put it from the sideway, I just mount it from the sideway? Thanks in advance for your reply.😃
Yes, I modified the X gantry so it works perfectly with the Stealthburner. I also have a mod for the old Afterburner which is no longer supported by Voron. www.printables.com/model/560268-voron-stealthburner-xy-axis-joints-for-zerog-mercu
Make sure you use the latest files from them 1.1.6 for the A/B Motors. Everything else is the same
I have one of the originals made for me by Scott Nakada, the man who supplied the phasers for Star Trek Continues. I had to wait almost a year because he was doing work for the show but the wait was ok because the prop was nicely made. He's a very talented prop maker.
Hi! Can i ask what rear stepper towers are you useing?
Thank you so much for sharing your design! Im building Mercury One 2.4 and searching for MGN9H for X axis. Yours seems better!
Skip the MSN9H. GO for Stealthburner. I have uploaded to Printables.com the mods for Mercury 1.1.5 (the latest) that work perfect with Stealthburner. Download from ZeroG the latest from Github and then my files if you want Stealthburner. I am running Beacon + tri-axis Hydra bed now.
Im really trying to wrap my head around the point of this. I have not seen a single one moving at speeds that make the work worth it. My Exoslides and stock machine go faster than 90% of the zeroGs i have seen on youtube. My assumption is the printed parts and external mounting of the motion system.... Can anyone explain? Cause was looking at doing a coreXY mod but this one isnt impressing me sofar....
That's driven by the slicer. Using BBL or Orca, the default profiles are much faster and the quality is very good. Voron good. If you already have Exoslide, there's no need for this. When you want a real upgrade - get a BambuLab X1C.
I love the music for this routine, their energy is awesome and there's so much fun choreo! They looked like they were having a blast!
your replies made me more into buying a seckit cube :) hostility like this is either from your lack of knowledge and anger around not being able to understand tuning it in, or like someone else said you're just being paid by competitors lol
Go ahead be stupid. Your money.
@@almonster2066 i have a cube already and it's wonderful, just a bit small. use orca slicer calibration.
The only thing I got from this video is vibes. You're angry, we get that. Now if you could calm down enough to point out the flaws and issues, that would be great. As it stands this is just venting.
It's so old. - Basically shitty design, shitty hardware and charged max price for junk. Yes, angry at it - will never recommend shit kit go.
why are you printing this slow, is this first print after the mod?
Yes, test print. This machine has been torn down and updated again with v 1.1.5 files and Hydra bed. Use Orca Slicer - it's simply the best out there.
Need to do anything special to mount the Stealthburner instead of the Afterburner? I have an old FT-5 printer that I've been meaning to find down time to convert to a Mercury One - but seems like going Afterburner isn't the best move now.
The Stealthburner comes with a new mount. If you use Merc1 x-axis, just use the files in Thingiverse. Search for Merc1 and I have them all posted up there. You need a small shim for the belt because of the offset. Stealthburner can use 2 MGN9 or 1 MGN12. Stealthburner mount is needed only if you use Clockwork 2. If you stay with Clockwork 1, you can use the old mount (per their instructions).
Nice Video. I saw this a year ago and decided to convert my Ender 5. I finally finished it the other day. Any way you can share your config with me? I previously was running Klipper with SKR mini.
I will post the file up tomorrow.
dude sorry you went through that. have you looked a vzbot?
you're not saying why it sucks
"Shitkit" 😂
I have a Seckit printer after owning a few different 3D printers and although I have the SK GO2 not the SK GO it's a great printer in my experience. It's not as fast as some of the latest Voron stuff I have seen which are focussed on speed, but the quality of the prints and accuracy are awesome which is what I was focused on vs speed anyhow, but can't say I've found the same experience as you have.
This guy (under various names all including 'al') has been trolling Seckit for a while and seems pretty obviously paid by a competitor or something. I'm super happy with my SK-Tank.
WTF are you talking about? SKG2 was shit to begin with. Just get a Bambu Lab and throw that thing in the garbage. X1C is the way to go. I have since decommissioned this piece of shit and will take it to the gun range and blow it up.
@@almonster2066 You're comparing a product made in 2022 with one made in 2020. There's plenty of reviewers out there who give honest reviews and they have also seen good results. I'm not saying it's the best printer in the world as I haven't had every other printer, but I don't think your experience is the normal, certainly mine performs well.
@@frasersimpson8264 Even in 2020, I had better printers than this piece of shit. Why are you wasting your time and mine about this piece of ancient shit?
@@almonster2066 your hostile attitude only makes me more supportive of SecKit lol. Comparing a 2022 plug and play X1C (engineered by multiple engineers from DJI) with a 2020 DIY printer from a one-man engineer is a joke. Your issues with these kits is obviously user error. You’re not meant for DIY, which is fine, but don’t compare the two experiences because they’re not attempting to achieve the same experience.
what length is your cable chain?
and width?
@@danielhastings1705 10X20mm 1Meter. Make sure you get an openable one. It is less than 1M long. I think it's close to only 550mm?
@@almonster2066 cheers, I found the correct one from this
@@almonster2066 i got mine in the post now, works great cheers dude
the prints don't look that bad
Im very confused here. Nothing you said is actuall proof of anything. I dont think the design itself is bad tho i can proove that. But it might just been a bad kit or you assembeling it wrong. Yeah. You can point some of the blame on seckit but i dont think they deserve all of it.
This was promoted as a great machine. What you get is junky parts with poor performance. Pieces of rough cut metal that isn't even cut properly. You have metal pieces that aren't even square. What are you one of the 2 fanboys of Shit Kit go? Do you even have one of thise pieces of shit?
@@almonster2066 You haven't actually provided any proof of anything. Your video is just a rant...
@@veegee24 You must be a noobe at best. I completely took apart this piece of shit that couldn't print consistently due to a shitty z-axis design. The idiot who designed it wanted $200 to fix his mistake. Fuck him. Buy an X1 Carbon from Bambu Lab and you don't have to deal with stupid shitty designs that print about as fast as a 5 yr old Prusa Mk3 but with all sorts of artifacts. Yes, it is a rant because I don't want people wasting their hard earned money buying into SHIT.
I dont trust any of the mainstream YTbers, especialy the ones who concentrate on Creality machines, and then when iy came out that Creality had been paying for favourable reviews of their junk machines it didnt take me long to figure out who was on the take!
How was the conversion?
Very straight forward. The Shit-Kit Go frame is low quality Chinese 4020 and had to use a single M6 instead of M5 for EU/American 4020/2020.
how much does each printer cost?
The base Ender 5+ is about $500 USD. The linear rails, bearings, etc.. maybe another $200. It it cheaper to buy a Formbot Voron kit.
hi, where did you find the stl for the front frame braces on your grey and red zero g's?
These are here - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4873160
@@almonster2066 thanks man! I bought my mercury one kit from fabreeko a cpl months ago. I abs printed all the parts for the evo tool head + zero g parts , bought sherpa mini + e3 v6 volcano, octopus board and I have a new (refurbished) ender 5 pro still in the box sitting in my basement. My problem is that I have been dragging my feet at building it since I'm nervous to learn klipper and there doesn't scheme to be any building instructions for zero g or where to start then I get lost in the discord. Is there a good walk threw for klipper? Any building instructions out there? Also can I run the zero g on a marlin firmware build (I know marlin well) until I learn klipper? I'm lost thanks for all your man for any answers :)
@@denvermatt Building isn't that hard. it's like Legos. Start by taking the Ender 5 gantry apart. The Github for Mercury 1 has images that will guide you through the build. You can download the Onsite CAD file and look at it to see how it goes together. Unfortunately, no one has put a guide together yet. You can run Marlin and configure as CoreXY. The Blue machine was running Marlin fine. Now with Klipper, I can never go back to Marlin. Marlin just seems so primitive now. Get it up and running on Marlin and then work your way to Klipper. Discord for Mercury1 is very helpful. This URL has the drawings for assembly - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury/tree/main/Drawings
@@almonster2066 thanks man. I just found the new docs on the website so awesome and needed.
Great set up that you did. I also like your cable chain I would like one too, is that one you made? and would you share with others. thanks
Here you go - www.printables.com/model/230884-mercury-1-mod-files-for-voron-afterburner-and-cabl
1:56 i don’t really like the twist up, it do it in D3 and i think ours looks better just saying plz don’t hate on this comment because it is an opinion ty
You can have an opinion without phrasing it like a jerk lol, all you had to say was you didn't like the twist up without bragging about yourself. 😂
@@hnicholeFr tho you didn’t have to brave about your team-
Brag*
Thanks for sharing that ill know to stay away from the sh!t kit! I got in to this trap too, relying on 3d printing channels to make the decision of what to buy. Got the prusa mini, it was highly prized among reviewers, tern out to be a pile of b.s sent it back for refund.
Beautiful printer, congratulation.
Wow, thanks for sharing. I have been thinking of altering my 5 plus to a core XY, and glad to see some has already done this. I was just looking at the Voron Trident and wondering if that same gantry could be modified to fit into the 5 plus. Now with the mercury I have two potential options to move with. I already have the afterburner with linier rails. I also have a TH3d main board with ABL. So thanks again for sharing.
ty :)
Hi almonster. Did you need 3 450mm Linear Rails or 4? I am asking because you are showing that 4 are needed, but in other posts they say only 3 are needed. Thanks!
It depends on what you want to use as a hot end. If you use Voron Afterburner, it previously required 2 MGN9H rails. If you use EVA or the new Stealthburner, you will use 1 MGN12H rail. So you will need 2 for Y and 1 or 2 for X depending upon which hot end you choose to go with. They would all be 450 in length for the 5 Plus.
If you want to do this mod, Fabreeko now has a complete kit with all the parts you need - www.fabreeko.com/products/mercury-one-kit?_pos=1&_sid=36cf1c432&_ss=r
Is there any full BOM or parts list for the Ender 5 Plus version of this? I'm horny as hell to go core XY on mine, but all the stuff I found is for the Ender 5, not the Plus.
The BOM parts are listed in the drawings. As for the changes for the 5+ - the only thing you need is 1 500mm 2020 extrusion (you can cut your x-axis to fit). From there, there are no differences between the 5 and 5+ for this mod.
@@almonster2066 awesome, thanks so much for the info! Parts printing has begun for my own conversion!
@@bartacus3521 One note, on the Afterburner using 2 MGN9H rails - you will need to shave the probe. I made a mod on Thingiverse to avoid shaving the Omron probe. If you use Stealth Burner with MGN12H, you can use the default Stealth Burner mount but with a 2.8mm shim behind it so the belts are parallel to the X-axis. If you don't there will be a slight offset which you may or may not care about.
Here's a link to my mods - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5002991
@@almonster2066 Thanks so much for that! Right now the plan isn't firm. I'm currently running 5 x 450mm LDO MGN12 rails, but with the "stock" cartesian motion. But I used the EVA system from Rat Rig for the hot end, so my X rail is on top. That's all going to have to change, but it's great to know I need a 2.8mm spacer. I'd like to maintain my BLtouch, and I found a modified Stealth Burner shroud for that, but I'm not sure how that's all going to fit together. I'll figure that out when the time comes.
What Material did you use for your printed parts?
I used Formfutura Titan X ABS which lets you print ABS with no enclosure with little to no warping. Works great. However, I would also suggest eSun ABS+, it seems to print just as good and much cheaper. I am doing my Voron Stealthburner in eSun ABS+.
Also would be interested how you fixed the Cable Chain onto the frame😊
They are in my Thingiverse link in the video description.
Amazing job. What about adding a Trident style bed? Get a decent cast aluminum plate and slap on an AC heater and mount that like on the Trident: sturdy bedframe without adjustment wheels or springs. And add a third lead screw and motor. Then you can use automatic 3-point leveling Trident style. Wouldn't be too hard to implement, looking at the Trident schematics.
I might end up doing that Trident mod on another printer. I bought this printer - Seckit Go2 - and IT SUCKS. It's going to get torn down and get this same mod - on that one I'll add the Trident bed. I have an AC heater for it already so - it just needs time.
It's An existing mod from mercury called the hydra
so what exactly is the benefits of this mod? over a stocl E5pro
CoreXY motion is very exact so you have no slop as in the factory motion system. CoreXy also allows you to print very fast 200 to 300 mm/s outer walls and acceleration at 10K to 12K. The ouput quality is so much better than the old 5 Plus.
nice :D i see you used my modded upper Fan Shroud :D
are they youth or junior
At the time, they were juniors.
Nice job! I ordered my 5 Pro and it should be here this week. I probably won’t try the CoreXY conversion for a while but it is good to know it’s possible and has a community behind it. Thanks!
amazing
Hey, is your printbed bigger than on an standard ender 5 plus?
No same build volume 350x350x400. I'm updating to the new Stealth Burner with a 5015 fan. One thing is true, the old After Burner did suffer some cooling issues when printing fast - 150mm/s +.
@@almonster2066 thx for the answer, i hve seen one build from regular ender 5 where the build plate have gone up from 230x230 to 310x310. i would love to have en build volume off 400x400x250, i don't need much height. Currently looking in to the documentation for this build, figuring out, do i start with a ender 5 and replace most of the parts, or scratch build one.
@@johndemeyer4613 Join the discord channel from this page - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury
Yo también soy gimnasta Wow qué bonito
Nice build, can you please send me your config file.
I want it on my ender 5+
It was an Ender 5+.
Looks like ender 5+
It was. It's now CoreXY.
I LOVE IT, thank you
Dang this looks really good I have an ender 5 plus and was looking at voron kits.
I've now just finished my second Ender 5+ migration to ZeroG / Mercury1. Just ran the accelerometer for input shaping. I also have parts to a 2.4 Voron sitting in boxes. So the addiction is an addiction. Chasing FDM perfection....
@@almonster2066 The only problem I've got is my Z axis screws are bent so it screeches whenever it moves Z down - they sent me new one from China, that was just as bent. I don't want to spend lots of time and money on a "base" printer that is faulty :-/
@@MrButuz Get Delrin trapesoid nuts that work with Prusa MK3s. They have the same stats. That will solve your noise problem. I switched mine over and they work great.
@@MrButuz screeches is low on lube, i bought and sold 3 ender 5 plus all of them made it going down, got some lube going, all of them stopped, a little bend in the lead screw is normal (a little)