Just want to add one thing here on the issue of tear out with plywood. I found unscrewing the 1/4" mdf backer on the jig body and using pre cut 1/4" mdf pieces same length and NOT screwed into the jig or slides, just moving everything down and holding together the backer and my plywood as cuts are made so you always have a new backer to cut thru eliminated my tear out issues almost 100%. I just turn the backer over so I have a clean edge to make the next set of cuts.Wanted to add this for anyone interested. I highly recommend the Freud box cutter blade for this jig as well. Use calipers to set this thing up though. Get overall thickness of your blades with calipers lock the calipers then set the inside of blade to outside of pin with calipers locked then measure outside of pin itself. Use the sliver micro knob while holding the red knob if small adjustments are needed.
For future reference: 4:42 Preliminary Setup: 5:29 Setting up at the Table Saw 12:07 Basic Box Joints at the Table Saw 20:59 Setting up at the Router Table 26:06 Basic Box Joints at the Router Table 35:15 Center Keyed Box Joint 46:28 Splined Box Joint 59:32 Centering your Joinery 1:00:21 Tearout Control 1:04:36 Maintenance and Super Tuning 1:05:34 Dentil Molding 1:06:19 Wooden Hinges
Just finished my first box...perfect. I made a small test box just to practice that is also perfect, I will be giving that to my sister as a gift card holder.
If using this on a router table, Glue some sandpaper to the backer board to keep the piece from moving . The router bit will tend to move the piece even if its clamped.
An file index to a specific topic would be especially helpful. I would like to easily return to one segment of the instructions. However, this youtube video and the DVD makes you exit the disk and watch a blue screen before presenting the list of segments. The background music is most annoying and does not add anything useful to the user experience.
Ok...hold the phone.....if I were to use this product, it would go on a construction site saw (see: DeWalt). I don't have the sort of high tolerance table saw as seen in the video. What are the chances my saw could produce the close tolerences referenced here? Thoughts?
I love my miter 2000 but my miter cuts are not lining up, they are off, now i have set set they miter to a perfect 45 degree angle but my boards are still not lining up ZZZ can you help or advise
I'm getting serious burning in the joints with oak. Lots of smoke has been the result and even enough to set off my smoke alarm. I have cleaned my Dado blades but I still seems to have issues. A single pass through leaves burnt remnants at the back side of the cut so much that I have to loosen the front blade guard to remove the piece and sand off clean and then reset the blade guard each time. It's a very slow process right now. I have no problem getting clean cuts with pine so let me know if you can suggest a solution given my issue with hardwood.
Gary, most likely, your saw blade is not aligned parallel to the miter slot on your table. The softness of the pine will give way to that problem while hardwood will not. Don't align the blade with the fence. All table saw alignment should be to the miter slot. This includes the blade, fence, and miter gauges.
I just finished cutting the pieces for my first box. But when I tried to assemble it is was so tight I couldn't get it together without considerable force. Am I missing something here?
I just did my first box today and had the same issue. Adjust the pin spacing when you do your test piece. (I wish they'd call it calibration piece...there's nothing to test on this piece.) check the 15:20 minute mark of the video. They talk about setting the pin placement...I just went to test it now and the looser the pin fitting the looser the finger joint fitting. (looser = looser) the more snug the test piece is on the pins means the tighter the finger joints. make sense??? Hope that helps!
Well my few weeks experience is showing here, cause I need to now Google what table saw tilt is (If this is referring to literal gravity tilt of the ground it's on or some table saw tendency from mfg or what).
Table saw tilt is the angle of the blade to the table. Normally this is 90 degrees. Most table saws can tilt the blade from 90 degrees to about 45 degrees. Again, normal usage it will be at 90 degrees. Welcome to the satisfying hobby of woodworking.
I was about to pull the trigger on purchasing this jig, and I own the TS LS wonder Fence System and like it very much. But the I box jig too many variables to make it work properly! At $258.00 us this is unacceptable.
Watch this video and others on this subject. I watch it before starting a new project. While watching I stop after each operation and try it out. I found that I do that on every project and have good results. After a while you'll get the hang of it.
Hey mark! I prefer you guys spend the money on R&D. The old videos just feel like the stuff has been around for ages, and works fine. Time to build us some new toys!
The hex key that’s supplied to attach the fence to the miter is too short it’s banging against the fence when tightening the screws unlike the one they use in the video which Is much longer. Apparently they love to use tools not associated with their jigs. It’s like someone at Incra said, “hey let’s really screw with these peoples heads, then we can all have a laugh 😈 at their expense.” So I suggest taking that wrench to your nearest Hardware or Big Box store and getting a much longer one. Then on your way home, toss the smaller one out the window and have your own little laugh 😈
Just want to add one thing here on the issue of tear out with plywood. I found unscrewing the 1/4" mdf backer on the jig body and using pre cut 1/4" mdf pieces same length and NOT screwed into the jig or slides, just moving everything down and holding together the backer and my plywood as cuts are made so you always have a new backer to cut thru eliminated my tear out issues almost 100%. I just turn the backer over so I have a clean edge to make the next set of cuts.Wanted to add this for anyone interested. I highly recommend the Freud box cutter blade for this jig as well. Use calipers to set this thing up though. Get overall thickness of your blades with calipers lock the calipers then set the inside of blade to outside of pin with calipers locked then measure outside of pin itself. Use the sliver micro knob while holding the red knob if small adjustments are needed.
God bless thanks.
For future reference:
4:42 Preliminary Setup:
5:29 Setting up at the Table Saw
12:07 Basic Box Joints at the Table Saw
20:59 Setting up at the Router Table
26:06 Basic Box Joints at the Router Table
35:15 Center Keyed Box Joint
46:28 Splined Box Joint
59:32 Centering your Joinery
1:00:21 Tearout Control
1:04:36 Maintenance and Super Tuning
1:05:34 Dentil Molding
1:06:19 Wooden Hinges
Thank you!!
Just finished my first box...perfect. I made a small test box just to practice that is also perfect, I will be giving that to my sister as a gift card holder.
If using this on a router table, Glue some sandpaper to the backer board to keep the piece from moving . The router bit will tend to move the piece even if its clamped.
After an hour of viewing this, I think I understand how to use the jig, but I might have to do my test cuts on that bloody mandolin.
Thank you for posting this. I just set mine up.
Thank you Mark. Just got mine, setting up today.
great video, but why the annoying bluegrass music noise?
You no lika de banjo? Lol, it aint gangsta rap yo
Note to self: At 17:28. he describes how to place the side board initially while using the end board as a reference.
An file index to a specific topic would be especially helpful. I would like to easily return to one segment of the instructions. However, this youtube video and the DVD makes you exit the disk and watch a blue screen before presenting the list of segments. The background music is most annoying and does not add anything useful to the user experience.
I’m interested in Incra but can’t concentrate on this video due to the intrusive music.
Ok...hold the phone.....if I were to use this product, it would go on a construction site saw (see: DeWalt). I don't have the sort of high tolerance table saw as seen in the video. What are the chances my saw could produce the close tolerences referenced here? Thoughts?
I love my miter 2000 but my miter cuts are not lining up, they are off, now i have set set they miter to a perfect 45 degree angle but my boards are still not lining up ZZZ can you help or advise
I'm pushing 70yrs young but I don't know how to set up the incra jig to difficult bottom
June God bless.
Why couldn’t Incra just mark the blade guards “Front” and “Rear” clearly on top so there would be no misunderstanding where they go. .???
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼🍎😎
I'm getting serious burning in the joints with oak. Lots of smoke has been the result and even enough to set off my smoke alarm. I have cleaned my Dado blades but I still seems to have issues. A single pass through leaves burnt remnants at the back side of the cut so much that I have to loosen the front blade guard to remove the piece and sand off clean and then reset the blade guard each time. It's a very slow process right now. I have no problem getting clean cuts with pine so let me know if you can suggest a solution given my issue with hardwood.
Gary, most likely, your saw blade is not aligned parallel to the miter slot on your table. The softness of the pine will give way to that problem while hardwood will not. Don't align the blade with the fence. All table saw alignment should be to the miter slot. This includes the blade, fence, and miter gauges.
Use the Freud 8" box cutter blade for best results.
They need to re-shoot this video in higher resolution!
He needs to slow the heck down too!
@@abigailrollins4854 Amen, amen and AMEN! And for heaven's sake, do NOT add ANY kind of music! It is so annoying I want to turn the video off.
Is the incr ready to cut from it's package.
Some assembly required.
What is a design toolkit?
I just finished cutting the pieces for my first box. But when I tried to assemble it is was so tight I couldn't get it together without considerable force. Am I missing something here?
I just did my first box today and had the same issue.
Adjust the pin spacing when you do your test piece. (I wish they'd call it calibration piece...there's nothing to test on this piece.) check the 15:20 minute mark of the video. They talk about setting the pin placement...I just went to test it now and the looser the pin fitting the looser the finger joint fitting. (looser = looser) the more snug the test piece is on the pins means the tighter the finger joints. make sense???
Hope that helps!
@@kevinparsons307 Thank you Kevin, after burning up a lot of wood I finally got it calibrated
No built in clamp?
I could watch 50 times and still not understand.
Well my few weeks experience is showing here, cause I need to now Google what table saw tilt is (If this is referring to literal gravity tilt of the ground it's on or some table saw tendency from mfg or what).
Table saw tilt is the angle of the blade to the table. Normally this is 90 degrees. Most table saws can tilt the blade from 90 degrees to about 45 degrees. Again, normal usage it will be at 90 degrees. Welcome to the satisfying hobby of woodworking.
I was about to pull the trigger on purchasing this jig, and I own the TS LS wonder Fence System and like it very much. But the I box jig too many variables to make it work properly!
At $258.00 us this is unacceptable.
This is Incra's video/material!!
I’ve never been able to figure out how to use this. Never used it.
rigoagui Must be ok for rude people though.
I suggest using it.
Watch this video and others on this subject. I watch it before starting a new project. While watching I stop after each operation and try it out. I found that I do that on every project and have good results. After a while you'll get the hang of it.
Well then, would you like to sell it?
I would suggest finding a local wood working guild. Guys around were you live would happy to help you out. We have informal classes once a month.
I think I'll just be a brain surgeon.
Ya all incra videos have terrible resolution. They all need to be re shot.
Hey mark! I prefer you guys spend the money on R&D. The old videos just feel like the stuff has been around for ages, and works fine. Time to build us some new toys!
What's with the stupid background music? Do they want to convert everyone into Hillbillies?!?!?!?
Stop judging in the same manor you shall be judged God knows all things.Bottom line God bless you
Whatchu mean convert? Aint we hillbillies just usin our hands to build already?
Way too complicated and fiddley.
Yes, and no. There certainly is a lot of setup and fiddling, but I think it's offset by the degree of adjustability and flexibility.
If you can set up a computer you can set up the Incra ibox.
The hex key that’s supplied to attach the fence to the miter is too short it’s banging against the fence when tightening the screws unlike the one they use in the video which Is much longer. Apparently they love to use tools not associated with their jigs. It’s like someone at Incra said, “hey let’s really screw with these peoples heads, then we can all have a laugh 😈 at their expense.” So I suggest taking that wrench to your nearest Hardware or Big Box store and getting a much longer one. Then on your way home, toss the smaller one out the window and have your own little laugh 😈
Why set it up for right tilt and for left tilt , why not just set it up one way. You’re not going to be tilting the blade while using it anyhow
Be sure you play with the blade guards back and forth, back and forth, back and forth so you look like an idiot just like they do in the video. 😈
😴😴😴🥱🥱🥱😴😴🥱😴🥱😴🥱😴🥱😴🥱😴🥱😴