Had these on my AP2, it was the best investment for my suspension. Sad when I had to sell the car, oh well these bad boys are going on my CL9 for sure.
Going by the way you installed it, I think ill get a profesional to install it. Do it once for a perfect allignmemt. And the best is to get the car jack on lift.
yep! this is really just icing on the cake for most users but after 20 years small things like this can make a big difference even if you're not tracking in 20 years the subframe is bound to have shifted in one way or another, especially the way I drive it, so knowing the geometry is locked in is worth it in my book
wasn't aware actually but glad you commented that! in any case, with these properly installed subframe should be 100% square, according to Spoon Sports anyway
i left some thoughts at the end of the video for ya! helps about 5-10% with NVH, not hard if you're mechanically inclined... if you've never turned a wrench before you're gonna have a hard time but if you can replace shocks, mounts, etc you should be good if you watch the full vide you kinda get an idea for how hard I thought it really was
100% do, admittedly it's harder to really *feel* the actual difference if the suspension on your car is well taken care of like my car which has solid bushings, good bracing, and decent shocks, was still pleasantly surprised by a 10-15% bump in rigidity which is pretty significant if you think about it! my old AP1 had a more tired set up and I definitely felt them make a larger difference on that car but the technical benefits of these is reason enough to throw them on
They won't guarantee a square setup, the larger size holes is because of manufacturing tolerances. Putting these in may actually force the subframe out of square.
they might! but they also might not, a car is not impervious to imperfections that take place during the assembly/production process -regardless of which direction they force the subframe in, which couldn't be far if at all out of spec if each subframe bolt manages to thread back in correctly in any case the benefit is that it will no longer be shifting as has probably been the case in the last ~20 years since the car was manufactured and a slight 10% reduction in NVH isn't a bad thing either
Good job explaining how the rigid collars work.
I was channeling your DIY energy
That lube is for the thread of the bolt and some on the collars to get the accurate torque read.
It’s more about corrosion with the copper tube included
Had these on my AP2, it was the best investment for my suspension. Sad when I had to sell the car, oh well these bad boys are going on my CL9 for sure.
My CR-Z Also used SPOON SPORT RIGID COLLARS Front & Rear
how does it feel?
Finally an update with the S2000! I've been waiting.
haha I've been at it! stacking stuff in the background actually so some cool plans incoming! thanks for your comment my dude 🤙🏼
@@jaelnava_ Aye that's awesome to hear! Always looking forward for your S2000 videos!
Going by the way you installed it, I think ill get a profesional to install it. Do it once for a perfect allignmemt. And the best is to get the car jack on lift.
If you have access to this or funds available with no design to turn a wrench, I would definitely take this to a pro
outstanding video on this product.
wow.... showing video examples of what you're talking about! Really nice!
I love you
Installs rigid collars, expects less feedback. Drives and calculates a 10-15% difference 😂.
yeah i was like, "wat bro?". i don't get it. aren't these supposed to remove play and make the subframe one with the chassis ?
I mean it’s not necessary unless ur tracking , the s2000 is already proved to have a great suspension response.
yep! this is really just icing on the cake for most users but after 20 years small things like this can make a big difference even if you're not tracking
in 20 years the subframe is bound to have shifted in one way or another, especially the way I drive it, so knowing the geometry is locked in is worth it in my book
not sure if you know this but there are 2 "reference holes" in each front and rear subframe to make sure it's aligned properly
wasn't aware actually but glad you commented that! in any case, with these properly installed subframe should be 100% square, according to Spoon Sports anyway
Did you have to disconnect the steering rack for the front? What about the rear exhaust ?
Didn't have to disconnect either of them!
where did you buy them?
Good job. Thanks
How hard would you say this was? How much did it help with NVH?
i left some thoughts at the end of the video for ya! helps about 5-10% with NVH, not hard if you're mechanically inclined... if you've never turned a wrench before you're gonna have a hard time but if you can replace shocks, mounts, etc you should be good
if you watch the full vide you kinda get an idea for how hard I thought it really was
Do you recommend these rigid collars?
100% do, admittedly it's harder to really *feel* the actual difference if the suspension on your car is well taken care of like my car which has solid bushings, good bracing, and decent shocks, was still pleasantly surprised by a 10-15% bump in rigidity which is pretty significant if you think about it!
my old AP1 had a more tired set up and I definitely felt them make a larger difference on that car but the technical benefits of these is reason enough to throw them on
@@jaelnava_ thanks man!
That Milwaukee 😋
she goes 🍒
They won't guarantee a square setup, the larger size holes is because of manufacturing tolerances. Putting these in may actually force the subframe out of square.
they might! but they also might not, a car is not impervious to imperfections that take place during the assembly/production process -regardless of which direction they force the subframe in, which couldn't be far if at all out of spec if each subframe bolt manages to thread back in correctly
in any case the benefit is that it will no longer be shifting as has probably been the case in the last ~20 years since the car was manufactured and a slight 10% reduction in NVH isn't a bad thing either
@@jaelnava_ one of the first rules in Mechanical engineering is never use bolts for crossways position, either use machined flanges or dowel pins.
Been pondering these - some people saying dont get them if you have 2006+
can't imagine why that would make a difference... interesting
didnt know you had a channel! thanks for watching my vides fam! ill be dropping a sub and if you ever in Orange county ca lets hang!