Roger and Nigel were a wealth of help solving my issue when I bought one of these from them. I suspect this is because i set mine on 🔥. Yes i admit it. I cannot believe how stupid i was after installing and configuring multiple lithium batteries and bms devices. I think it was probably the utter desperation of previously purchasing a jk bms but the supplier failed to tell me i was just doing one thing wrong. I would recommend buying from these guys. Just based on their support is fantastic.
I have ordered 2 of the jkbms for my 16 lifepo4 in a 24 volt configuration. Basically 2 seperate batteries. Hopefully i can get them installed and running with the help of your videos. Thanks
@@Teknopottu I ended up using my daly 300 amp bms and my jk is setting on the shelf. The daly is a 24 volt bms and the jk although much nicer is not big enough for running my inverters. I'd like to have another jk and have 2 seperate batteries but for now it 16 cells in a 2p8s configuration. I'm actually wanting another 16 of the 280 eve cells. I kinda need 30 kw of storage. I'm getting by with 560 ah at 24 volts but those rainy winter days are coming soon and I'd say I'll need more battery than what I have
Small tip. You can press down with a small point of a screwdriver and pull the unused balance cables out. If you ever do need them in the future. They just snap back in
Love this one Andy saved me a tear down. I built an 8 cell pack and used all the balance leads. 2p4s apparently it refuses to use half the balance leads for a 12v battery and just give an alarm.
Better to put the smartshunt between battery and bms so that you dont have error in the usage of the bms itself. Also if the bms shuts off youll still have the data from the smartshunt to find out why it shut down. I found the bms uses a continuous 2-3 watts, that if the shunt is after it and you use the battery in such a way that it doesnt reach 100% very often, youll have a capacity error. 3w doesnt sound like much but it works out to roughly 5.5 ah every 24hrs, that wont be accounted for by the smartshunt if the shunt is after the bms.
Question: I've been looking at setting up a battery bank for my Campervan, Why is it everyone says you cant use a 20s JK BMS for 12 or 24v? Why can't I hook up say 16 cells (280ah) in a configuration of series and Parallel to make 12v at 1,120Ah Is it the configuration of series and parallel that the BMS can't read correctly? Would I then have to use 4x BMS's each connected to 4x Cells or is there another way to just use 1 BMS that controls the whole lot? Cheers for the information, love the content!
Does anyone also have problems with high idle consumption of this 4s / 8s jk bms? I bought 2 of them and both in idle suck my battery empty. Couple of amps per week of idle consumption. Now i use jbd and problems are gone. Please someone can relate to this problem?
Question: when everything is wired up and I probe the main battery positive and the P - of the BMS, I get 12v when the BMS is OFF. In the video he’s getting 0v when BMS is off. Is something wrong with my BMS?
Just FYI the voltage drop on the shunt resistor is exactly 0.00V. There’s no current flow. The higher the current, the higher the voltage drop, that’s how you calculate the current flowing through it using the Ohms law 😉
i have a similar setup im building but 24v, the App wont work on my samsung phone, my jk bms didont come with a switch, it currently only outputs 12.6v out of the bms but 29v from the bat, but my 9th wire is cut and im commenting after watching so ill go fix the 9th with and see if it helps
Hello, what does the red light flashing near the temperature sensors socket mean during bluetooth connection? After 11 seconds the JK BMS JK B1A8S20P turns off. I can't get into the setting. Thank you for your help.
Hi Mate, great video, I have a Renogy 170ah battery that's misbehaving and would like to install a JK smart BMS. The batteries continuous discharge rate is 125 amps. Would I be better setting this in the new BMS or would it be ok to leave at 200a . The reason I ask is that I am hoping to run this in parallel with my current 300ah smart battery that has a JK smart BMS as standard and a continuous discharge rate of 200a. The plan is to hopefully increase my capacity to 470ah. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Greetings from Scotland. 👍
Hi! Is there a way how the BMS could measure the real capacity of the battery? I used deep discharged 18650 cells, stored at zero voltage. All the thousand cells came back to 3.6V than made them paralel and built big 7S120P pack and put a JK BMS on it. Not sure how many Ah left in the cells, would be nice if BMS could measure. Rated is 2.75Ah each cell so I guess 2Ah per cell left in best case but not sure.
@@offgrid_power and how todo that? What voltage levels to pass as low and max to be calculated? I use safe margins and BMS still does not calulate capacity only cycle capacity.
Hello wonderfull video. I bought the same bms i d like to connect with a computer with rs485 and can. Did you do ? could do a video about rs485 connexion ? Thanks.
when I charge my 24V 8S EVE 304 cells using JK BMS using EPEVER 30A Solar charger there is no problem but when I use PowMr 3000 watts inverter charger even at 10A then BMS gives Protection CPU AUX anomaly error message and get disconnected. Can anyone help?
Good job! Everything is detailed and consistent. I think you know what you are talking about. Could you tell me a little more about the temperature sensors. There are two temperature sensors of this BMS. If it was necessary to measure the temperature of the environment or the battery, then one would be enough. There are two of them. What are they for? Where would it be correct to install them? Unfortunately, the manual does not say anything about this. Thanks in advance for your reply!
@@remnl, Thanks for your reply! There is no information about this in the instructions. But I saw one promotional video that shows the process of assembling and testing such cells. In this video, a worker assembles cells into a battery, installs such a BMS module, fixes one of the sensors directly on the contact plate going to the "+" one of the cells in the center of the battery, and leaves the second one hanging in the air nearby. That is, one sensor measures the temperature of the cell, and the second measures the temperature of the ambient air. Maybe so?
How many amp cold you draw from it before it burns ? Mine said 60a max ! My controler goes up to 75 peak! Is it ok like that? I know it’s a good bms and don’t want to ruin it
Great video Andy. Can you or any of your followers tell me what I need to do to deal with a forgotten bluetooth password? I can't change it without knowing the old one and I need to install the app on another device. I'm beyond fed up with JK support, the support page has been down for months and so is the contact page. Hankzor has been totally unresponsive to all my inquires and I've received no response from the JK info email address. My understanding is that there is a temporary code that needs to be entered but without support I can't get that code. I can't believe there isn't a hardware solution for a hard reset. Surely I'm not the only pea brain that has forgotten a password. I'm desperate for a contact who can help me.
Hi there, is there a big diference when the positive wire is shorter than the negative? With the bms negative ends up longer some inches, any point rolling extra positive wire just to keep same lengths?
Thanks a lot - I could not find any documentation on what the switch was for or how it worked. One question - I wanted to time when the battery can charge and I do not think the app has a timer feature. This is so I can charge at OFF peak rates at night. I was thinking about using the temp probe and adding a parallel resistor to create a fake Overtemp issue at until the right time. Do you think this will work? It would be nice if the app had a scheduler feature.
I have just set up one of these JK BMS's. It was supplied without an on/off switch. From previous setups of a JK 48v BMS I know that you can apply a voltage across the P and B terminals to activate the BMS. In the past I had used a 9v PP3 battery to do this but I have just seen a RUclips video showing a very easy alternative. Set a multimeter to the diode test setting and touch the +VE lead to the B contact and the - ve lead to the P contact. The BMS then starts - quick and easy!
@nigelcharles511 Neither the multimeter nor a 9V PP3 work for me. I've tried both methods and got nada, no beeps, no BMS. 😕 I've been very careful to connect it up exactly as in this vid. I'll try getting one of those switches.
Two things to check before you do that. 1. Make sure that you have the polarity of the multimeter leads the right way around. It seems illogical but the positive lead should go to the B- and the negative to the P- terminal. 2. Make sure that there are no other connections like solar panels. I was swapping in some different lithium cells from to an existing system. Initially the JK BMS wouldn't respond due to the solar power input. I haven't checked the Internet for a switch. I was lent a switch but it had the wrong type of connector for my, BMS. I also believe it maybe that only BMS's with the matching socket for the switch plug will work with an external switch. Finally if all else fails use a 9v PP3 battery instead of a multimeter. That is what I did before I heard of the simpler multimeter technique.
@@nigelcharles511 Hi, Many thanks for that. Re 1: I double checked that one at the time. Re 2: that's a possibility - I'd already switched off my charge controllers _but_ I'm parallelling this 4-cell battery with another and that one was still connected (directly) to the power bus, so tomorrow I'll redo everything with that one off and see what happens. Re a switch: I found several suppliers at Ali Express and have already ordered one which _says_ it's for my BMS which is a B1A8S20P. It's supposed to get here by 8/8 so I'll try that too. Re the PP3: Yep, I tried that too today (a brand new one) and got zilch. Your no2 is looking like the culprit right now but time will tell. 😊 Many thanks again for your help, I've been tearing my hair out, lol! 😄
@@nigelcharles511 Yes that seems to be the issue. In my defence though, lol, I'd say that when the diagram showing the wiring connections shows both a charge controller and a separate charger _connected_ to the battery +ve, that's what I do. I think the real problem is that nowhere, AFAICT, do Jikong illustrate or instruct you about _in what order_ you need to connect the BMS terminals. It's looking very much as though you're supposed to connect everything _except_ the battery +ve first, then switch the BMS on, and only after _that_ connect the battery +ve to chargers, controllers, buses etc. Tomorrow I'll experiment on that basis and report back. Fingers crossed... 🤞🏻🤞🏻
I have created a 24v battery by using a total of 16 Headway 38120 cells 8AH each. I paralled 2 cells per string for a total of 8 strings. Then series each group of two together. When setting the capacity in the app. Would I set it at 8AH or the combined 16AH from the parallel configuration?
As far as I know, the answer is "Yes!" for this model of BMS. But there are other models, and they may have different ports for charging and discharging. So, you can see phrases "common port" or "separate port" in manuals and datasheets.
Balancing doesn't "transfer current from one cell to another" it drains the higher voltage cells with some current until their voltage equals to the lower (actually lowest) voltage cell(s).
@@Ropetangler That would, in practice mean that any cell (=balancer circuit fragment) would be wired to all others and "decide" which one to charge from the overvoltage cell... how? That would require a much more complex circuit than these balancers are. The common (cheap), simple ones don't even have a "brain" but fully analog. They simply shunt the "overvoltage cell" by a FET through the resistors on the balancer board (there comes the balancing current limit from, whatever power the FET(s) and the resistors can withstand) thus draining it somewhat. And they keep shunting the "overvoltage" cell until the voltages over the cells balance out. Technically speaking, by shunting (lowering its internal resistance) a cell it kind of "sends" more voltage to the next cell in series, but not any of them. If that happens to be "under" voltage happily takes the charge, if it's an "over" cell then it will be shunted too passing the process one down in the line. If we limit the charging voltage (or lower it, e.g. sun goes down) the cell voltages equalize with time, how long it takes to drain the "over" cells to the lowest voltage cells level. It takes time. But if I'm wrong, please explain at what part am I wrong. :)
Thanks for heads up on P- connection. GREAT TIP. Quick note though: at 18:58 "the BMS does not take into account the Peukert Effect" ... that only applies to lead acid and not lithium. Technically speaking there is one, but it's so small that it's immaterial.
NO the BMS works out the soc and I know when you first start using its way out but it will improve after its done a few cycles. Nice to see these have moved on to the JK it is a much better BMS and no need to top balance any more, the balancer will do it for you
@@LancashireProClean I would still do an initial top balance. Cells can arrive at a variety of states of charge (even if the resting voltage is the same) which could be many tens of AH different. Even a 2a balance current would struggle to sort them out initially, especially with solar charging and winter charge patterns…
@@frodev728 Yes sorry I didn't explain properly I ment I don't link all the cells and charge to 3.65, I build the battery set up the BMS hook up to a bench power supply at 14.6v and leave it for a few days, when I come back the cells at 3.65 fully absorbed and the delta is down to or very close to 0mv
Good video, now can you show the connections between the +ve and -ve terminals of the BMS to the Solar array and the MPPT controller and a 12v to 230Vac inverter, where should the fuses go and what rating should they be and also any isolators that may be required. Unless of course you have already done this. Many thanks.
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
![JK BMS B2A8S20P Detailed Settings [UPDATED]](/img/1.gif)
Roger and Nigel were a wealth of help solving my issue when I bought one of these from them.
I suspect this is because i set mine on 🔥. Yes i admit it. I cannot believe how stupid i was after installing and configuring multiple lithium batteries and bms devices. I think it was probably the utter desperation of previously purchasing a jk bms but the supplier failed to tell me i was just doing one thing wrong.
I would recommend buying from these guys. Just based on their support is fantastic.
Glad we were able to help and that you got everything set up in the end! :)
I have ordered 2 of the jkbms for my 16 lifepo4 in a 24 volt configuration. Basically 2 seperate batteries. Hopefully i can get them installed and running with the help of your videos. Thanks
Hi. How did your setup go? I have something similar in mind and any tips are precious 😊
@@Teknopottu I ended up using my daly 300 amp bms and my jk is setting on the shelf. The daly is a 24 volt bms and the jk although much nicer is not big enough for running my inverters. I'd like to have another jk and have 2 seperate batteries but for now it 16 cells in a 2p8s configuration. I'm actually wanting another 16 of the 280 eve cells. I kinda need 30 kw of storage. I'm getting by with 560 ah at 24 volts but those rainy winter days are coming soon and I'd say I'll need more battery than what I have
Small tip. You can press down with a small point of a screwdriver and pull the unused balance cables out. If you ever do need them in the future. They just snap back in
Thanks for the tip! That's handy to know! :)
Love this one Andy saved me a tear down. I built an 8 cell pack and used all the balance leads. 2p4s apparently it refuses to use half the balance leads for a 12v battery and just give an alarm.
Better to put the smartshunt between battery and bms so that you dont have error in the usage of the bms itself. Also if the bms shuts off youll still have the data from the smartshunt to find out why it shut down. I found the bms uses a continuous 2-3 watts, that if the shunt is after it and you use the battery in such a way that it doesnt reach 100% very often, youll have a capacity error. 3w doesnt sound like much but it works out to roughly 5.5 ah every 24hrs, that wont be accounted for by the smartshunt if the shunt is after the bms.
@@offgrid_powerfriend jk bms is good or Daly ?
@@offgrid_power 📌 *Есть мысли, чтобы при отключении городского 220в, автоматически включалась JK BMS* ❓🤔 В Щитке стоит АВР
Thank you for a great guide. Greats from Poland👍
Cell wire resistance in settings seems a balance wire resistance as its values would be too high for the wires between cells.
Very helpfull video
Can the Bluetooth be disabled in these units? Trying to minimised radiation around my small space.
L I K E 👍 👍 👍👍👍💯💯💯💯💯🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
:)
One thing to watch is that if you have a 100ah pack setting the charge to 100a will give you 1c. Eve cells prefer 0.5c for long life. So set to 50a.
Good point, thanks!
Question: I've been looking at setting up a battery bank for my Campervan, Why is it everyone says you cant use a 20s JK BMS for 12 or 24v?
Why can't I hook up say 16 cells (280ah) in a configuration of series and Parallel to make 12v at 1,120Ah
Is it the configuration of series and parallel that the BMS can't read correctly?
Would I then have to use 4x BMS's each connected to 4x Cells or is there another way to just use 1 BMS that controls the whole lot?
Cheers for the information, love the content!
Does anyone also have problems with high idle consumption of this 4s / 8s jk bms? I bought 2 of them and both in idle suck my battery empty. Couple of amps per week of idle consumption. Now i use jbd and problems are gone. Please someone can relate to this problem?
Question: when everything is wired up and I probe the main battery positive and the P - of the BMS, I get 12v when the BMS is OFF. In the video he’s getting 0v when BMS is off. Is something wrong with my BMS?
Just FYI the voltage drop on the shunt resistor is exactly 0.00V. There’s no current flow. The higher the current, the higher the voltage drop, that’s how you calculate the current flowing through it using the Ohms law 😉
Do you think i could use 6mm2 copper cable to connect the bms B- to the battery.?
Thank you for this! Other default password is 1234 as of 04/2023 at least to start, but settings is 123456 as stated
Glad you enjoyed the video!
i have a similar setup im building but 24v, the App wont work on my samsung phone, my jk bms didont come with a switch, it currently only outputs 12.6v out of the bms but 29v from the bat, but my 9th wire is cut and im commenting after watching so ill go fix the 9th with and see if it helps
Hope that adding that ninth wire fixed it!
Excellent job
Ill be doing a BMS swap video soon. Ill include a link to this as you do a wonderful job
Great tutorial, followed your advice and everything went smoothly. Thank you.
Hello, what does the red light flashing near the temperature sensors socket mean during bluetooth connection? After 11 seconds the JK BMS JK B1A8S20P turns off.
I can't get into the setting. Thank you for your help.
Hi Mate, great video, I have a Renogy 170ah battery that's misbehaving and would like to install a JK smart BMS. The batteries continuous discharge rate is 125 amps. Would I be better setting this in the new BMS or would it be ok to leave at 200a . The reason I ask is that I am hoping to run this in parallel with my current 300ah smart battery that has a JK smart BMS as standard and a continuous discharge rate of 200a. The plan is to hopefully increase my capacity to 470ah.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Greetings from Scotland. 👍
Для подключения к телефону запрашивает пароль который я не знаю как мне быть? Можете помочь?
@triandafillidisjordan2688 I think the default password is just 1234 so perhaps that's worth a try?
Hi! Is there a way how the BMS could measure the real capacity of the battery?
I used deep discharged 18650 cells, stored at zero voltage. All the thousand cells came back to 3.6V than made them paralel and built big 7S120P pack and put a JK BMS on it. Not sure how many Ah left in the cells, would be nice if BMS could measure. Rated is 2.75Ah each cell so I guess 2Ah per cell left in best case but not sure.
The JK BMS & Victron Smart Shut both do this.
@@offgrid_power and how todo that? What voltage levels to pass as low and max to be calculated? I use safe margins and BMS still does not calulate capacity only cycle capacity.
Hello wonderfull video. I bought the same bms i d like to connect with a computer with rs485 and can. Did you do ? could do a video about rs485 connexion ?
Thanks.
I changed start balancing at 3.4 v .
Obrigado pela disposição em ajudar. Assisti várias vezes seus vídeos e já montei minha bateria de 230 A.
Great BMS! About Calibration Current in setting. If set here lower current than measured, will bms allow to exceed 200 Amps.. and to what extent.
when I charge my 24V 8S EVE 304 cells using JK BMS using EPEVER 30A Solar charger there is no problem but when I use PowMr 3000 watts inverter charger even at 10A then BMS gives Protection CPU AUX anomaly error message and get disconnected. Can anyone help?
Good job! Everything is detailed and consistent. I think you know what you are talking about. Could you tell me a little more about the temperature sensors. There are two temperature sensors of this BMS. If it was necessary to measure the temperature of the environment or the battery, then one would be enough. There are two of them. What are they for? Where would it be correct to install them? Unfortunately, the manual does not say anything about this. Thanks in advance for your reply!
did you ever found out about the right location of the two sensors? i guess on top and bottom of the cell pack?
@@remnl, Thanks for your reply! There is no information about this in the instructions. But I saw one promotional video that shows the process of assembling and testing such cells. In this video, a worker assembles cells into a battery, installs such a BMS module, fixes one of the sensors directly on the contact plate going to the "+" one of the cells in the center of the battery, and leaves the second one hanging in the air nearby. That is, one sensor measures the temperature of the cell, and the second measures the temperature of the ambient air. Maybe so?
How many amp cold you draw from it before it burns ? Mine said 60a max ! My controler goes up to 75 peak! Is it ok like that? I know it’s a good bms and don’t want to ruin it
Thank you so much! The documentation is a bit lacking, and definitely would have caused me confusion and grief.
Great video Andy. Can you or any of your followers tell me what I need to do to deal with a forgotten bluetooth password? I can't change it without knowing the old one and I need to install the app on another device. I'm beyond fed up with JK support, the support page has been down for months and so is the contact page. Hankzor has been totally unresponsive to all my inquires and I've received no response from the JK info email address. My understanding is that there is a temporary code that needs to be entered but without support I can't get that code. I can't believe there isn't a hardware solution for a hard reset. Surely I'm not the only pea brain that has forgotten a password. I'm desperate for a contact who can help me.
Hi there, is there a big diference when the positive wire is shorter than the negative? With the bms negative ends up longer some inches, any point rolling extra positive wire just to keep same lengths?
Thanks a lot - I could not find any documentation on what the switch was for or how it worked. One question - I wanted to time when the battery can charge and I do not think the app has a timer feature. This is so I can charge at OFF peak rates at night. I was thinking about using the temp probe and adding a parallel resistor to create a fake Overtemp issue at until the right time. Do you think this will work? It would be nice if the app had a scheduler feature.
Hello thank you for your video!
Does it need a cable to communicate with the hybrid inverter ?
alex.
Thanks for uploading this - very useful to get my BMS working! :)
Great video, thanks. Does the BMS require 2 x cables or will 1 x at thicker gauge suffice?
I have just set up one of these JK BMS's. It was supplied without an on/off switch. From previous setups of a JK 48v BMS I know that you can apply a voltage across the P and B terminals to activate the BMS. In the past I had used a 9v PP3 battery to do this but I have just seen a RUclips video showing a very easy alternative. Set a multimeter to the diode test setting and touch the +VE lead to the B contact and the - ve lead to the P contact. The BMS then starts - quick and easy!
@nigelcharles511 Neither the multimeter nor a 9V PP3 work for me. I've tried both methods and got nada, no beeps, no BMS. 😕 I've been very careful to connect it up exactly as in this vid. I'll try getting one of those switches.
Two things to check before you do that.
1. Make sure that you have the polarity of the multimeter leads the right way around. It seems illogical but the positive lead should go to the B- and the negative to the P- terminal.
2. Make sure that there are no other connections like solar panels. I was swapping in some different lithium cells from to an existing system. Initially the JK BMS wouldn't respond due to the solar power input.
I haven't checked the Internet for a switch. I was lent a switch but it had the wrong type of connector for my, BMS. I also believe it maybe that only BMS's with the matching socket for the switch plug will work with an external switch.
Finally if all else fails use a 9v PP3 battery instead of a multimeter. That is what I did before I heard of the simpler multimeter technique.
@@nigelcharles511 Hi,
Many thanks for that. Re 1: I double checked that one at the time. Re 2: that's a possibility - I'd already switched off my charge controllers _but_ I'm parallelling this 4-cell battery with another and that one was still connected (directly) to the power bus, so tomorrow I'll redo everything with that one off and see what happens.
Re a switch: I found several suppliers at Ali Express and have already ordered one which _says_ it's for my BMS which is a B1A8S20P. It's supposed to get here by 8/8 so I'll try that too.
Re the PP3: Yep, I tried that too today (a brand new one) and got zilch.
Your no2 is looking like the culprit right now but time will tell. 😊
Many thanks again for your help, I've been tearing my hair out, lol! 😄
@@dalehill6127 I suggest that you disconnect everything apart from the BMS before you try to activate it.
@@nigelcharles511 Yes that seems to be the issue. In my defence though, lol, I'd say that when the diagram showing the wiring connections shows both a charge controller and a separate charger _connected_ to the battery +ve, that's what I do. I think the real problem is that nowhere, AFAICT, do Jikong illustrate or instruct you about _in what order_ you need to connect the BMS terminals. It's looking very much as though you're supposed to connect everything _except_ the battery +ve first, then switch the BMS on, and only after _that_ connect the battery +ve to chargers, controllers, buses etc. Tomorrow I'll experiment on that basis and report back. Fingers crossed... 🤞🏻🤞🏻
Fantastic video - Baie Dankie 🙂
Glad it was helpful! :)
I have created a 24v battery by using a total of 16 Headway 38120 cells 8AH each. I paralled 2 cells per string for a total of 8 strings. Then series each group of two together. When setting the capacity in the app. Would I set it at 8AH or the combined 16AH from the parallel configuration?
16
So, just to confirm, balance lead 1 will show 3v , lead 2 = 6v , lead 3 = 9v and lead 4 = 12v ?
Or should they all show 3v
No , they should go up in 3v increments
Thank you so much for your informations :)
Very useful! Thank you!
Grazie un tutorial molto utile e dettagliato. Un saluto da Roma
hi, does this one start up in 4s mode with 12v?
It can do 4s or 8s.
No in 8s
Very interesting and helpful. Thank you. Off to view the detailed video in a little while😁😁
Glad it was helpful!
Question 🙋🏻 P- is for Power minus out and also for charge minus in ?!
As far as I know, the answer is "Yes!" for this model of BMS. But there are other models, and they may have different ports for charging and discharging. So, you can see phrases "common port" or "separate port" in manuals and datasheets.
Thank you very much, Fred 👍
Balancing doesn't "transfer current from one cell to another" it drains the higher voltage cells with some current until their voltage equals to the lower (actually lowest) voltage cell(s).
I stand to be corrected, but my understanding is that it “does" send current from the highest voltage cell to the cell with the lowest charge voltage.
@@Ropetangler That would, in practice mean that any cell (=balancer circuit fragment) would be wired to all others and "decide" which one to charge from the overvoltage cell... how? That would require a much more complex circuit than these balancers are. The common (cheap), simple ones don't even have a "brain" but fully analog. They simply shunt the "overvoltage cell" by a FET through the resistors on the balancer board (there comes the balancing current limit from, whatever power the FET(s) and the resistors can withstand) thus draining it somewhat. And they keep shunting the "overvoltage" cell until the voltages over the cells balance out. Technically speaking, by shunting (lowering its internal resistance) a cell it kind of "sends" more voltage to the next cell in series, but not any of them. If that happens to be "under" voltage happily takes the charge, if it's an "over" cell then it will be shunted too passing the process one down in the line. If we limit the charging voltage (or lower it, e.g. sun goes down) the cell voltages equalize with time, how long it takes to drain the "over" cells to the lowest voltage cells level. It takes time. But if I'm wrong, please explain at what part am I wrong. :)
Thank you so much !
Thanks for heads up on P- connection. GREAT TIP.
Quick note though: at 18:58 "the BMS does not take into account the Peukert Effect" ... that only applies to lead acid and not lithium. Technically speaking there is one, but it's so small that it's immaterial.
Hi is there any way of setting the soc
NO the BMS works out the soc and I know when you first start using its way out but it will improve after its done a few cycles. Nice to see these have moved on to the JK it is a much better BMS and no need to top balance any more, the balancer will do it for you
@@LancashireProClean I would still do an initial top balance. Cells can arrive at a variety of states of charge (even if the resting voltage is the same) which could be many tens of AH different. Even a 2a balance current would struggle to sort them out initially, especially with solar charging and winter charge patterns…
@@frodev728 Yes sorry I didn't explain properly I ment I don't link all the cells and charge to 3.65, I build the battery set up the BMS hook up to a bench power supply at 14.6v and leave it for a few days, when I come back the cells at 3.65 fully absorbed and the delta is down to or very close to 0mv
No, you cant set it as far as I know.
@@LancashireProClean can you leave your cells fully charged for that amount of time like a couple of days to do top balancing?
Good video, now can you show the connections between the +ve and -ve terminals of the BMS to the Solar array and the MPPT controller and a 12v to 230Vac inverter, where should the fuses go and what rating should they be and also any isolators that may be required. Unless of course you have already done this. Many thanks.