That was a lot of fun this morning to chat with you during the premiere. We should do this more often. I can make longer videos so we have more time 😁 We had over 500 viewers during the stream, that is amazing! Don't forget, I'll explain exactly what happened with the JK-BMS in the very next video, coming on Saturday morning 5am AEST. Thanks a lot again for all your support. Love you all!
@@jakobgode Hallo Jakob, hab gerade mal gemessen, die beiden Terminals sind jeweils 18mm breit, also 2x 18mm plus 1-2mm Platz noch dazwischen. Ich bekomme dort sogar zwei 70mm Kabelschuhe nebeneinander drauf.
Hello Andy. André from Norway here; Could I ute this BMS for my 3S build? -For my boat I will build four 12V Lithium ion 3S7P batteries. LEV50 Cells from EV Peugeot i-on 11,25V nom 8,25 - 12,3V range each of the four battery pack will have 350Ah and will be connected in parallell, totally 1400Ah
I have just set up one of these JK BMS's. It was supplied without an on/off switch. From previous setups of a JK 48v BMS I know that you can apply a voltage across the P and B terminals to activate the BMS. In the past I had used a 9v PP3 battery to do this but I have just seen a RUclips video showing a very easy alternative. Set a multimeter to the diode test setting and touch the +VE lead to the B contact and the - ve lead to the P contact. The BMS then starts - quick and easy!
I will be building a 24v 280ah battery very soon, I was leaning towards the overkill solar bms till I watched this video, I will be going with a jk bms now, thanks for the very informative videos, keep up the great work, enjoy your videos!
Andy i must thankyou for these videos. Your info has been so helpful. Ive just completed building a 280ah 4 cell lifepo4 battery with the jkbms. This is to replace 2 lead acid batteries in our motorhome. I chose the jkbms to be able to connect to my rasberry pi running the cerbo gx, again thankyou to your videos for helping me get that working flawlessly. Next step is the peter inverter, and hopefully pick up on the rs485 to the raspberry pi. Keep up the great work on your channel.
Thanks a lot for your kind feedback. I appreciate that. Also, as an alternative, have a look at these Xijia Inverters on my website. They are very robust and at least as good as the Peter.
@@paulhowes3788 Not from AliExpress through the links on my Homepage? They come with a universal plug which fits all standards. off-grid-garage.com/inverters/
Thank you very much for your review. I just ordered one of these and they are on SALE right now. With your discount I only paid $109 USD. Thanks again.
If the inverter has an LC input filter without clamping diode, the BMS may have gotten zapped by the filter inductor exceeding one of the FETs' avalanche energy when the BMS disconnected.
Finally I found a nice youtube channel with good test. One of myDaly bms gave up...and so Im looking for something better for my 280 AmpH battery . Thanks for this test, an order will be done soon.
I'm not surprised that the cables stay cool. This is the formula for calculating the cable size: Current (Amps) x length (meter) x 0,2 = cable (mm²). So calculating back: 16mm/ 0,2m/0,2=400A. So the length has a huge impact on the capacity.
Thank you. Your videos are starting to give me the confidence I need to take on the next project. Currently most of my house is solar powered on a 48v system, now my sights are on my moth balled 1979 MGB limited edition. I'd like to take it electric for cruising about town. I have subscribed and will review all your postings!
I received mine today and super excited to get it hooked up. Mine didn't come with a display, but only a power button. Not a big deal for me, but just informational. Not sure why this was different other than Hankzor likes Andy better. I don't blame them for that. haha Thank you for doing all of these tests to provide us with data to make informed decisions!
Hello Mark! I just received mine with power button also instead of a display. Just to make sure, is this power button will be plug on the display port to start the BMS? Thanks in advance.
Hi Andy, I think those EVE LF105 are rated for only 1C continuous discharge. 3C rating is only for long pulse discharge, may be 3 minutes or something. Can't wait for the magic smoke trouble shooting video. 4S capability in JK is great. Thanks for the review.
Thanks for introducing to this very nice BMS Andy! Ordered this after getting inspired by your video. Had to get it to India from Hankzor through a friend in an intermediate country as aliexpress does not work here (Duh!) Awesome BMS!
I guess we now have a new test... The Lick Test {Not to be confuse with the archaeological one}. Nice! Love it. Does this one requires a prior use of S.P.A.T. at the right temperature? Inquiring minds want to know!
@off-grid garage , Andy could you try to see if the button on the display is a simple contact. Doing a continuity check on the cable with the button released and pressed. If it's a simple contact it's detectable. The display is not very useful, but a DIY 1$ button could be very beginners friendly.
Well the teaser video had me excited to see what you blew up. Have to wait until the next video to find out all the details. Anyway, I enjoyed the testing and had a chuckle as you decided to keep pushing it after the magic smoke appeared. I was surprised the BMS was still functioning after all that. Things tend to not last very long when run at the maximum. Had you kept it just under 200A it might have been fine.
It is unfortunate that BMS could not handle shut-off for the 200+A test. That is a black mark on the BMS. Despite that, this seems like a solid BMS for 12V set-ups with 1500W (or smaller) inverters. (Note: I would never run a BMS at 100% of it's ratings. My designs would leave a minimum of 25% headroom.) JK has made itself the top BMS vendor in my book. I am not sure why anyone would pick a different BMS for a DIY battery. BTW: I avoid 12V systems if I can, but many folks like to stay with 12V for mobile installs. It would be nice to see a 300A 4S BMS that could drive full power on a 3000W inverter. (300A is a lot more current than I like to deal with....and that is one of the big reasons I avoid 12V.)
Agreed, I wouldn't expect it to run for very long at full rated load, but it still should have cut off gracefully. Very curious to see what actually burned up.
Serie/Parallel connection for communication/functions purposes between BMS and subsequent data to inverter/chargers. More than one RS terminal needed. That's my best guest. 😉
Cool video, Andy. Looks like they use thermal pad/adehesive between the mosfets and metal case, hence the bending. This allows the heat to dissipate into the metal case and remove it from the mosfets. Has to be a tight contact for it to work effectively. EDIT: Passive Cooling.
Hi Andy, it looks like Hankzor is no longer honouring your coupon code :( I'm sure this video is still sending lots of customers their way however.... p.s. Thank you so much for all your work, it's such a privilege having a fellow off gridder making content here in the Australian context that is so informative
Another great vid & review of this superb JK BMS Andy, & I DO LIKE THE NEW SCREW TERMINAL CONFIG as well. I just received my 48v version with the start button display, (damnit!) & then ordered the LED one anyhow. I Guess Ill havta get an 8s 24v one now , for my Bus project, yay! The JK definitely seems to tick all the boxes so far, not keen on the magic smoke, but then we do like to push these things, dont we! Would like to see if you can melt ur busbars with 300Amps, I think we should keep the manufacturers words honest here too! How many Nm did you take them down to, & how many can they take, as per specs? Looking forward to ur upcoming vids. Cheers
I suspect your assumption of a fried FET is correct, possibly caused by an inductive flyback affect when the load was removed, causing the FET junction voltage to be exceeded. If so, that's a definite fail for the BMS. It would almost certainly fail if the discharge FETs had to interrupt an overload current. "Not fit for service." I look forward to seeing your postmortem.
Must say I am very impressed by your work, not only your installations etc but also with your ability to share your experiences and knowledge. Very helpful indeed. Now, would you put a fuse between BMS B- and and the cell? Or "just" go with the fuse after Battery pack (-), before shunt and then loads? I saw somewhere that you were asking about the connectors to the JK BMS. I figure you found out, but in case not - they seem to be Micro JST 1,25 (not confirmed - I have ordered (for an on-off momentary switch) and hope it works). Regards!
Love your vids....You are helping me understand the charging processes of LifePo4 batteries. I just purchased two SOK Brand 206 Ah "H" Series LifePo4 batteries to replace my older flooded deep cell batteries. I want to really understand how to charge and take care of my new purchase. Also I'm in the market for a new clamp meter and wondered how you like your UNI-T Clamp Meter? Also what model meter is it? I couldn't quite see the model in the video. Would you purchase that same model number again or would you get a different brand and/or model number? Thanks again for informative and humorous content!!! Mark
Looking forward to seeing what smoked... I reckon it was maybe a current shunt, but will be interested to see. Btw turning off a FET with full current is not a problem in itself to the FET. You may however produce a inductive spike that the circuit around it finds hard to handle.
Hi Andy, this is Russell here from Rio de Janeiro Brazil. Your fan. Do not miss any of your videos. They are instructive and nice to see. I have a question on this JK B2A8S-20P. I am using them to made 5 12VDC DIY Lifepo4 batteries. I want to know how can I get the BMS to send me a 12V signal in two cases. 1- When the BMS cuts the battery charge due to "Cell OVP" (cell Over Voltage Protection) and 2; when the BMS cuts the discharge of the battery due to "Cell UVP" (Cell Under Voltage Protection). Is it possible to get these signals in the one of the BMS connectors?
Hi Any, I know this is an older video but I hope you can still see my comment and reply. I want to build a 12V battery with this BMS, but I want to build a very large one, with 8 cells of 280A in a 4S2P configuration. But I don't want to build 2 separate 4S batteries, how do I connect the BMS to all 8 cells without it thinking it is a 24V system? Thanks!
I like that you have to option to change the resistance in the balance leads. If I had this bms on my 280 ah cells I would be more likely to use it but ehh. Wouldn't make a huge difference other than minut accuracy. Well don't video Andy. Thankyou for sharing as always
Hi Andy, thanks for all your great videos. I have a question and perhaps maybe a potential test idea? I've read somewhere that the welded stud terminals are not really good for high current draw. You yourself had pointed out the small surface area of the welded studs in your videos. I had an Idea tonight, how about adding copper washers with 11mm ID and 16mm OD, 2mm thick(or 2x1mm) around the base of the welded stud where the original battery terminal is. This would increase the contact area with the busbar and allow for more (or less restricted) current flow resulting in less heat? I could be wrong of course. Also ot sure about mating different metals (copper/aluminium), so nickel plating might be beneficial? Let me know what you think.
Thanks Jan. I have done some high amp testing here on the channel with these cells and the very small contact area of the welded studs (see video below). PERFECT! No trouble, no heat built-up. Seplos put copper washers in their DIY box to be installed around the terminals. Not a good idea. While it increase the surface area, it also increases the resistance and heat. ruclips.net/video/VPQvs-2YYzA/видео.html
No idea why I waited so long to watch this, I am sorry. You just made me buy one of these and the same display. I've come to hate the xioxiang app and my existing BMS is only 30A anyway :P Cheers Andy!! :)
I sure hope they add those threaded connectors to all versions of the BMS and not just the 12V version. Would be happy if they made the cables optional if they did that so I don't have to pay for cables I won't use anyways.
I will make this suggestion to them. The 16s version comes in a closed case though, so not sure if they would change that design. It is more important for the 12V and 24V systems due to higher currents in my opinion.
Hi Andy, Thanks for another awesome video! Love the content on this channel. Do you happen to have a link to the 1A version of this BMS, I cant seem to find it anywhere. It may not be available yet but just thought I'd ask.
Great test & review of the JK BMS Andy and I like many others have purchased one after watching your excellent video. I recently upgraded my inverter charger to 4.2 Kw from 2.5 Kw and now I’m getting this “Protection (CPUAUX Anomaly)” warning repeatedly as are many others with zero response from JK or their distributors to our complaints. Can anyone shed any light on what the cause might be and possible remedies? Cheers & Beers🍻
I got mine today. I was wondering what to do about using the heating pad option, do to the fact they give no connector to use the heating Pad port. 😕 Can someone point me to a usable diagram or video that actually tells how to make this work?
When the JK BMS is on, the display will turn off the backlight, if no current output from BMS is being detected , for 10 seconds. The default supply is with a switch, not the 2.3” ‘power board’ display. The Pro display uses display and RS485, more suited to the 24S
Hi Andy, I have tested the JK-B2A8S20P for use in our AGV-batterypack. For us the SOC is very important to steer the agv in time to a dockingstation for loading. It is not clear which value I can use best for the SOC. Remain battery is what they present in the app but I ̀ m not sure if that is calculated by means of counting coulombs. It looks more like the value is calculated from the voltages. What is your idea about this?
The JK-BMS does definitely Coulomb count and once fully charged it starts counting from there. The SOC value will drift over time if not fully charged frequently. If you charge it in a dock it should be fine and fairly precise, so you can read the SOC directly and use it for your system. The remaining capacity is just a calculation the BMS does and displays, from what you have set as maximum capacity.
Hi Andy, Hey all! Just thought I shed some light on my experience of this bms. All is great till you run into an issue with it not turning on or off. When you do finally get it to start it will not connect to phone app. It so happens that one of the diodes for the speaker causes the unit to malfunction. I had this issue with two of the bms's I purchased. I was advised by the guys from JK to remove this diode. Once done problem is solved! Though this mod causes speaker to no longer function. I am not sure if this issue is still occurring with current stock they are selling. Also running multiple battery banks using the same bms is now possible providing you use a T Class rated fuse. Please refer to the Aliexpress listing for details. Was not accounting for this additional cost but as long as everything works all is good i guess? I hope this is helpful for other viewers looking at purchasing this for their application.
@@UsernamePassword85 I do get the three beeping noises! And then the light just blinks once a second. The Bluetooth symbol on the app always shows an x, like it is not turned on.
Thanks for the installation guide. Very usefull. I noticed my BMS app doesn't show any decimals for "calibrating curr." value, but maybe they have changed this in the app lately?
I have this BMS almost a month now... testing daily and playing with very satisfactory results. The odd that observed is in total current of the battery, when the battery is charged and discharged simultaneously. Current sensor fail to display real number (zeros), can't calculate load and charge and report error with yellow text "Protection (Current sensor anomaly)". I dont know if my BMS is faulty or something wrong related to software or firmware. Fact is, if one of the currents missing works fine. In your test Andy notice you use only one scenario, either charge or discharge not both. Haven't confirm yet if that affect also some other counters too, cycles used Ah etc.
More than a year has passed, how would you rate this bms to work with the 204EVE cells and a load between 1kw and 2kw? 2kw pulsing, induction cookplate in a campervan?
Excellent video Andy, many thanks. I dont know if yourself or anyone else might know if there is an issue for having the software mod loaded onto GX touchscreen for batteries with integrated BMS and still wanting to use a Victron BMS ver2 with victron batteries. Not as the same time but using either a Victron lithium set or integrated BMS batteries?
Good afternoon! I purchased BMS JK-B2A8S20P at TAO BAO. Unfortunately, the seller did not include a user manual. Can you recommend how to activate BMS? There is a short cable with two wires and a connector that fits into the display port.
Aloha Andy! I ordered a JK-B2A8S20P, intending to do an 8S setup with EVE 304Ah cells. However: we ran out of money. Question: can I configure these to use our old 12V 3KW inverter? What if I put 4 pairs of parallel cells in series? Thanks!
Well done. Please, do a video of opening up that JK to see what smoked. Is there a C or F option for reporting temps? If you have the bluetooth display, why would you need the other display? Bluetooth seems to provide a lot more information, right? Thanks for sharing
Hi Andy, I wonder if you could help me. On the JK-BMS 4S-8S edition there is the RS485 socket. I have googled RS485 to try and buy a plug to connect to this socket but cannot find the plug type for this socket. Do you know the plug type that I am looking for? Thanks.
if the bms is rated for 200amps then it should be able to handle cutting off over 200+ amps in an over current scenario otherwise that's a major flaw in the design might be just a lemon unit but still these are there for safety it has to work perfectly
Hello Andy, I am writing to you from France. I enjoy your videos. So I have a question for you I am considering modifying the electrical circuit in a boat. Install a battery bank of 4 batteries parallel with 280 amp cells, each equipped with a JK 4S BMS. Completed with a Victron Cerbo GX system. How to make my batteries communicate with each other and with the Victron Energie. The new JK BMS JK-PB2A16S20P is equipped with an RS485/RS232/CAN/BT communication plate, can we connect this communication plate with the JK-B2A8S20P (12V battery)? I thank you for your feedback Laurent
great videos thanks. I'm a little confused why you like this BMS so much when it blew up? Shouldn't the Over Current protection kicked in and safely disconnected the load without blowing the output? Its rated to disconnect up to 350A? This would seem like a fail? Also if the unit is getting hot at 200A should it have active cooling built in?
Absolutely. This was the first device on the market and we have raised this issue with the manufacturer so they can choose different FETs in the future. It has passive cooling and 200A constant current is stretching it. 200 Chinese amps are like 150 real world amps 😊 It is still the best consumer grade BMS out there.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hi Andy, I don't think I have ever seen Chinese electronics without silicon wire. I bought a 10,000/18,000kw Chinese inverter and when I looked inside and saw the cable to the output terminals, like you I said no way, then discovered the American AWG is completely different to the Silicon AWG. And you yourself commented that it was cold when you ran 200Amps in the test where you got magic smoke from the JK BMS, By the way, I am Qualified electronics engineer with 50 years experience, retired now 70 years old and although it's not good practice to leave it, I would leave the dead FET if you do not have a hot air re work station. Keep up the excellent video's, you are like everyone's best friend . Bob Uk
At 6:28 you read that it doesn't support series connections. I'm looking for a clerification on this. This is to say I can't series up two 8s 24v drop ins for 48V? I thought a B2A24s20p or B2a20 would work. Seems a pretty basic 48v set up to me. What am i missing?
I assume that the emergency switch is like the battle short on army generators, bypasses safety checks that would prevent the generator from running and causing damage. Sometimes you just need power. I assume this bypasses the temperature restrictions and settings
Hi Andy, did u eventually contact the Hankzor about the serial/parallel question ? I have the same BMS and Hankzor never replyed to me so far. Thanks Chris
Be a nice setup with a finned heatsink instead of a flat aluminium plate for better heat dissipation or an ability to add a temp controlled fan, I have a new set of 16S 280ah batteries coming from Basen just arrived and has just gone through Australian customs so hopefully see them next week , as I am holding off on a BMS until I see something that stands out above the rest, this will power up a 11kw MMP inverter for off grid, but I am waiting on that also to be dispatched out of Taiwan.
Hi Andy, sorry I am a bit confused now. I really enjoyed your video and even the "explosion" did not bother me, BUT: the digital meremaid pointed out in one of her videos, that JK unfortunately is selling some JK 4s BMS under the same label, that do not run under a 4s configuration. Hope, you get my point. How can I make sure, that I order the right (4S suitable) BMS? Thanks for all your work! And "Prost" from Bavaria.
That noise was a mosfet poppin,they are under rated by 25A each and if ya got a oscilloscope ya wanna put that on the dc power out of the bms and then other channel on the ac of ya inverter
That was a lot of fun this morning to chat with you during the premiere. We should do this more often. I can make longer videos so we have more time 😁 We had over 500 viewers during the stream, that is amazing!
Don't forget, I'll explain exactly what happened with the JK-BMS in the very next video, coming on Saturday morning 5am AEST.
Thanks a lot again for all your support. Love you all!
Hi Andy glaubst du, dass Rohrkabelschuhe 50mm2 auf M6 auf alle 4 Anschlüsse vom BMS passen?
@@jakobgode Hallo Jakob, hab gerade mal gemessen, die beiden Terminals sind jeweils 18mm breit, also 2x 18mm plus 1-2mm Platz noch dazwischen. Ich bekomme dort sogar zwei 70mm Kabelschuhe nebeneinander drauf.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Vielen Dank 👍🏻
Hello Andy. André from Norway here;
Could I ute this BMS for my 3S build?
-For my boat I will build four 12V Lithium ion 3S7P batteries.
LEV50 Cells from EV Peugeot i-on
11,25V nom
8,25 - 12,3V range
each of the four battery pack will have 350Ah and will be connected in parallell, totally 1400Ah
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hi sir
Eve LF105ah brand new cell made by 12v pack need to Balance machine or jk bms is enough?
I have just set up one of these JK BMS's. It was supplied without an on/off switch. From previous setups of a JK 48v BMS I know that you can apply a voltage across the P and B terminals to activate the BMS. In the past I had used a 9v PP3 battery to do this but I have just seen a RUclips video showing a very easy alternative. Set a multimeter to the diode test setting and touch the +VE lead to the B contact and the - ve lead to the P contact. The BMS then starts - quick and easy!
I will be building a 24v 280ah battery very soon, I was leaning towards the overkill solar bms till I watched this video, I will be going with a jk bms now, thanks for the very informative videos, keep up the great work, enjoy your videos!
Andy, Ty for such wonderful work. I love the interactive live chat section! Keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot for tunning in this morning. It was great, I really enjoyed it.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliadear sir Daly bms or jk which one better please tell me
@@Bokul112 JK, 100%!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia thanks sir
@@OffGridGarageAustralia sir 100% mean?
Daly smart bms with active balancer is good ? For 12v 105ah
Wow! I didn’t realise you could have so much fun testing a bms and learning.
Nice, just ordered one for my 4s setup for offgrid camping. Thanks Andy for the review !
Outstanding vids Andy. So many thanks for your lessons. BMS Jk working perfect here in Brazil !!!
Thank you. Great job 👍
Andy i must thankyou for these videos. Your info has been so helpful. Ive just completed building a 280ah 4 cell lifepo4 battery with the jkbms. This is to replace 2 lead acid batteries in our motorhome. I chose the jkbms to be able to connect to my rasberry pi running the cerbo gx, again thankyou to your videos for helping me get that working flawlessly.
Next step is the peter inverter, and hopefully pick up on the rs485 to the raspberry pi.
Keep up the great work on your channel.
Thanks a lot for your kind feedback. I appreciate that. Also, as an alternative, have a look at these Xijia Inverters on my website. They are very robust and at least as good as the Peter.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia unfortunately xijia isn't available to the UK
@@paulhowes3788 Not from AliExpress through the links on my Homepage?
They come with a universal plug which fits all standards.
off-grid-garage.com/inverters/
Thank you very much for your review. I just ordered one of these and they are on SALE right now. With your discount I only paid $109 USD. Thanks again.
Thanks Jason, that is a really good price for a great product.
If the inverter has an LC input filter without clamping diode, the BMS may have gotten zapped by the filter inductor exceeding one of the FETs' avalanche energy when the BMS disconnected.
Thanks Andy- awesome! LOVE your work!
Mine is on the way, so the caravan will soon have an upgrade! Fabulous!
Absolutely awesome vid,was excited the whole time.
Finally I found a nice youtube channel with good test. One of myDaly bms gave up...and so Im looking for something better for my 280 AmpH battery . Thanks for this test, an order will be done soon.
Thank you Ralph and welcome to the channel.
you live on the edge Andy. Good job.
Did you find out what JK is talking about not being
able to hook this up in parallel?
Thanks for your work
Dave
Had to look this one up: Coulomb counting is a reliable technique to predict remaining battery capacity. 👍
Great video Andy , I love watching your reviews and experiment , great stuff 😂
I'm not surprised that the cables stay cool. This is the formula for calculating the cable size: Current (Amps) x length (meter) x 0,2 = cable (mm²). So calculating back: 16mm/ 0,2m/0,2=400A. So the length has a huge impact on the capacity.
I put two on order LOL! Cant wait for the review!
Me too...
Why dont you build your own bms
@@t3chb0y67 I am not that smart
@@jameshelmuth5268 I didn't notice you cant run in parallel . This might be a problem.
@@UsernamePassword85 What exactly is meant by "can't use them in parallel"?
That BMS looks amazing. Now we need a 48V version of it. It looks great. Now we must check the charging process.
They are Available up tp 24S :)
"I could watch this all day long" Me to! it's hard to find a RUclips video that can capture my attention for 45 minutes!
Thanks a lot Travis!
Thank you. Your videos are starting to give me the confidence I need to take on the next project. Currently most of my house is solar powered on a 48v system, now my sights are on my moth balled 1979 MGB limited edition. I'd like to take it electric for cruising about town. I have subscribed and will review all your postings!
Thanks for come back to us, the poor guys!
OKAY I believe I;'m sold on this one. Perfect for a small 4s 120 amp battery to run my 12vdc driveways lights.
I received mine today and super excited to get it hooked up. Mine didn't come with a display, but only a power button. Not a big deal for me, but just informational. Not sure why this was different other than Hankzor likes Andy better. I don't blame them for that. haha Thank you for doing all of these tests to provide us with data to make informed decisions!
Hello Mark! I just received mine with power button also instead of a display. Just to make sure, is this power button will be plug on the display port to start the BMS? Thanks in advance.
Yes, that’s correct. The plug will only fit one of the ports so you can’t go wrong
I love all you detailed videos thus far and I’m enjoying and learning at the same time.
Awesome, thank you!
I love the under temperature test!
Hi Andy, I think those EVE LF105 are rated for only 1C continuous discharge. 3C rating is only for long pulse discharge, may be 3 minutes or something. Can't wait for the magic smoke trouble shooting video. 4S capability in JK is great. Thanks for the review.
You're right. 3C is only for 30S. Still very good and maybe worth a test.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes very good test indeed. And ahh I missed the Premiere and the live Chat. dozed off for a while, it was 1AM here.
Thanks for introducing to this very nice BMS Andy! Ordered this after getting inspired by your video. Had to get it to India from Hankzor through a friend in an intermediate country as aliexpress does not work here (Duh!)
Awesome BMS!
I guess we now have a new test... The Lick Test {Not to be confuse with the archaeological one}. Nice! Love it. Does this one requires a prior use of S.P.A.T. at the right temperature? Inquiring minds want to know!
Hahaha, Teddy. I cannot waste any drop of this liquid!
It was in the freezer for 1.5h before doing the test, so temp was OK with 3°C.
So excited for 4S BMS, been waiting for these features without magic smoke!
@off-grid garage , Andy could you try to see if the button on the display is a simple contact. Doing a continuity check on the cable with the button released and pressed. If it's a simple contact it's detectable. The display is not very useful, but a DIY 1$ button could be very beginners friendly.
I'll have a look.
Well the teaser video had me excited to see what you blew up. Have to wait until the next video to find out all the details. Anyway, I enjoyed the testing and had a chuckle as you decided to keep pushing it after the magic smoke appeared. I was surprised the BMS was still functioning after all that. Things tend to not last very long when run at the maximum. Had you kept it just under 200A it might have been fine.
It is unfortunate that BMS could not handle shut-off for the 200+A test. That is a black mark on the BMS. Despite that, this seems like a solid BMS for 12V set-ups with 1500W (or smaller) inverters. (Note: I would never run a BMS at 100% of it's ratings. My designs would leave a minimum of 25% headroom.)
JK has made itself the top BMS vendor in my book. I am not sure why anyone would pick a different BMS for a DIY battery.
BTW: I avoid 12V systems if I can, but many folks like to stay with 12V for mobile installs. It would be nice to see a 300A 4S BMS that could drive full power on a 3000W inverter.
(300A is a lot more current than I like to deal with....and that is one of the big reasons I avoid 12V.)
Agreed, I wouldn't expect it to run for very long at full rated load, but it still should have cut off gracefully. Very curious to see what actually burned up.
Serie/Parallel connection for communication/functions purposes between BMS and subsequent data to inverter/chargers.
More than one RS terminal needed.
That's my best guest. 😉
"I'm the bus bar terminal fix-ar", in Andy's best Arni-Aussie accent..."No wait, I'm the BMS Chef!" Magic 203Amp smoke! 👨🍳🍳
27:51 is beautiful. 🤤That is very comforting to see it in action, no guesswork to know if its balancing or not.
Are you still planning to do a video where you review your Charge Controller settings? Would love to know your settings!
I picked up two for my projects. Thanks.
Great, you won't be disappointed.
Cool video, Andy. Looks like they use thermal pad/adehesive between the mosfets and metal case, hence the bending. This allows the heat to dissipate into the metal case and remove it from the mosfets. Has to be a tight contact for it to work effectively. EDIT: Passive Cooling.
Hi Andy, it looks like Hankzor is no longer honouring your coupon code :( I'm sure this video is still sending lots of customers their way however....
p.s. Thank you so much for all your work, it's such a privilege having a fellow off gridder making content here in the Australian context that is so informative
Thanks a lot. The discount was only for a limited time, I believe. It may have expired.
I’m definitely getting one of these for my campers solar setup
Fantastic Video. Very instrutive for me. Thanks
Am I seeing smoke at 0:55 and again at 1:02? I have a feeling some electronics were harmed in the making of this video. Oh, this is going to be good.
Lol
Another great vid & review of this superb JK BMS Andy, & I DO LIKE THE NEW SCREW TERMINAL CONFIG as well.
I just received my 48v version with the start button display, (damnit!) & then ordered the LED one anyhow.
I Guess Ill havta get an 8s 24v one now , for my Bus project, yay! The JK definitely seems to tick all the boxes so far, not keen on the magic smoke, but then we do like to push these things, dont we!
Would like to see if you can melt ur busbars with 300Amps, I think we should keep the manufacturers words honest here too! How many Nm did you take them down to, & how many can they take, as per specs?
Looking forward to ur upcoming vids. Cheers
Thanks for the making the video. Do you know what the quiescent current is for the BMS?
Thanks, nice video! Helped a lot.
Thank you.
I have been using the same BMS on my system since the end of last year with no problems
How? These have only just become available?
I have too bought the same exact bms like 4 month ago, they were on the market for some time already
Yahoo love the info funny stuff well done JK I have to get one cause I have no BMS right now thank you Sir
I suspect your assumption of a fried FET is correct, possibly caused by an inductive flyback affect when the load was removed, causing the FET junction voltage to be exceeded. If so, that's a definite fail for the BMS. It would almost certainly fail if the discharge FETs had to interrupt an overload current. "Not fit for service." I look forward to seeing your postmortem.
I was scheduled to watch the premier but RUclips wasn't working at 1am Bangladesh time!
Oh, nooooooo! We will do it again. 1am was far too early anyway! 😴
Must say I am very impressed by your work, not only your installations etc but also with your ability to share your experiences and knowledge. Very helpful indeed.
Now, would you put a fuse between BMS B- and and the cell? Or "just" go with the fuse after Battery pack (-), before shunt and then loads?
I saw somewhere that you were asking about the connectors to the JK BMS. I figure you found out, but in case not - they seem to be Micro JST 1,25 (not confirmed - I have ordered (for an on-off momentary switch) and hope it works). Regards!
vraiment impressionnant ce test ! surtout que j'ai sursauté aussi quand le mofset a brulé 😃
Love your vids....You are helping me understand the charging processes of LifePo4 batteries. I just purchased two SOK Brand 206 Ah "H" Series LifePo4 batteries to replace my older flooded deep cell batteries. I want to really understand how to charge and take care of my new purchase. Also I'm in the market for a new clamp meter and wondered how you like your UNI-T Clamp Meter? Also what model meter is it? I couldn't quite see the model in the video. Would you purchase that same model number again or would you get a different brand and/or model number? Thanks again for informative and humorous content!!!
Mark
Looking forward to seeing what smoked... I reckon it was maybe a current shunt, but will be interested to see. Btw turning off a FET with full current is not a problem in itself to the FET. You may however produce a inductive spike that the circuit around it finds hard to handle.
Heya oh wouw that's a very nice test with some smoke too
Hi Andy, this is Russell here from Rio de Janeiro Brazil. Your fan. Do not miss any of your videos. They are instructive and nice to see. I have a question on this JK B2A8S-20P. I am using them to made 5 12VDC DIY Lifepo4 batteries. I want to know how can I get the BMS to send me a 12V signal in two cases. 1- When the BMS cuts the battery charge due to "Cell OVP" (cell Over Voltage Protection) and 2; when the BMS cuts the discharge of the battery due to "Cell UVP" (Cell Under Voltage Protection). Is it possible to get these signals in the one of the BMS connectors?
Hi Any, I know this is an older video but I hope you can still see my comment and reply. I want to build a 12V battery with this BMS, but I want to build a very large one, with 8 cells of 280A in a 4S2P configuration. But I don't want to build 2 separate 4S batteries, how do I connect the BMS to all 8 cells without it thinking it is a 24V system? Thanks!
I like that you have to option to change the resistance in the balance leads. If I had this bms on my 280 ah cells I would be more likely to use it but ehh. Wouldn't make a huge difference other than minut accuracy. Well don't video Andy. Thankyou for sharing as always
Looking forward to the explanation of the pop and smell.... :)
Hi Andy, thanks for all your great videos.
I have a question and perhaps maybe a potential test idea?
I've read somewhere that the welded stud terminals are not really good for high current draw. You yourself had pointed out the small surface area of the welded studs in your videos.
I had an Idea tonight, how about adding copper washers with 11mm ID and 16mm OD, 2mm thick(or 2x1mm) around the base of the welded stud where the original battery terminal is.
This would increase the contact area with the busbar and allow for more (or less restricted) current flow resulting in less heat?
I could be wrong of course.
Also ot sure about mating different metals (copper/aluminium), so nickel plating might be beneficial?
Let me know what you think.
Thanks Jan. I have done some high amp testing here on the channel with these cells and the very small contact area of the welded studs (see video below). PERFECT! No trouble, no heat built-up. Seplos put copper washers in their DIY box to be installed around the terminals. Not a good idea. While it increase the surface area, it also increases the resistance and heat.
ruclips.net/video/VPQvs-2YYzA/видео.html
Thanks Andy, good test
No idea why I waited so long to watch this, I am sorry. You just made me buy one of these and the same display. I've come to hate the xioxiang app and my existing BMS is only 30A anyway :P Cheers Andy!! :)
I sure hope they add those threaded connectors to all versions of the BMS and not just the 12V version. Would be happy if they made the cables optional if they did that so I don't have to pay for cables I won't use anyways.
I will make this suggestion to them. The 16s version comes in a closed case though, so not sure if they would change that design. It is more important for the 12V and 24V systems due to higher currents in my opinion.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The other advantage would be being able to use whatever length cable needed without having to splice another cable on.
Hi Andy,
Thanks for another awesome video! Love the content on this channel.
Do you happen to have a link to the 1A version of this BMS, I cant seem to find it anywhere. It may not be available yet but just thought I'd ask.
Great test & review of the JK BMS Andy and I like many others have purchased one after watching your excellent video. I recently upgraded my inverter charger to 4.2 Kw from 2.5 Kw and now I’m getting this “Protection (CPUAUX Anomaly)” warning repeatedly as are many others with zero response from JK or their distributors to our complaints. Can anyone shed any light on what the cause might be and possible remedies? Cheers & Beers🍻
Did the JK BMS comes with cables? They don't say what kind of cable goes to the BMS 4AWG or 6AWG
Thank you. So good
Thank you!
I was waiting for you to check the amp reading at 200A discharge after you calibrated it.
I got mine today. I was wondering what to do about using the heating pad option, do to the fact they give no connector to use the heating Pad port. 😕 Can someone point me to a usable diagram or video that actually tells how to make this work?
When the JK BMS is on, the display will turn off the backlight, if no current output from BMS is being detected , for 10 seconds. The default supply is with a switch, not the 2.3” ‘power board’ display. The Pro display uses display and RS485, more suited to the 24S
Hi Andy, I have tested the JK-B2A8S20P for use in our AGV-batterypack. For us the SOC is very important to steer the agv in time to a dockingstation for loading. It is not clear which value I can use best for the SOC. Remain battery is what they present in the app but I ̀ m not sure if that is calculated by means of counting coulombs. It looks more like the value is calculated from the voltages. What is your idea about this?
The JK-BMS does definitely Coulomb count and once fully charged it starts counting from there. The SOC value will drift over time if not fully charged frequently. If you charge it in a dock it should be fine and fairly precise, so you can read the SOC directly and use it for your system. The remaining capacity is just a calculation the BMS does and displays, from what you have set as maximum capacity.
Hi Andy, Hey all! Just thought I shed some light on my experience of this bms. All is great till you run into an issue with it not turning on or off. When you do finally get it to start it will not connect to phone app. It so happens that one of the diodes for the speaker causes the unit to malfunction. I had this issue with two of the bms's I purchased. I was advised by the guys from JK to remove this diode. Once done problem is solved! Though this mod causes speaker to no longer function. I am not sure if this issue is still occurring with current stock they are selling. Also running multiple battery banks using the same bms is now possible providing you use a T Class rated fuse. Please refer to the Aliexpress listing for details. Was not accounting for this additional cost but as long as everything works all is good i guess? I hope this is helpful for other viewers looking at purchasing this for their application.
I received mine on Friday. The button turns it on and off, but it won't connect to my phone. The app version is 4.7.4.
@@joebalciunas6962 do you get three peeping noises from the speaker? or is it continues ? I am using 4.6.5
@@joebalciunas6962 Just to be clear I am using the android version of the software.
@@UsernamePassword85 I do get the three beeping noises! And then the light just blinks once a second. The Bluetooth symbol on the app always shows an x, like it is not turned on.
@@UsernamePassword85 so am I! The app opens, but the scan button has no activity,
Informative as it is informative as usual. Thanks for your videos!
Thanks for the installation guide. Very usefull. I noticed my BMS app doesn't show any decimals for "calibrating curr." value, but maybe they have changed this in the app lately?
Ha ha as a 12v mobile guy, loved this.
I have this BMS almost a month now... testing daily and playing with very satisfactory results. The odd that observed is in total current of the battery, when the battery is charged and discharged simultaneously. Current sensor fail to display real number (zeros), can't calculate load and charge and report error with yellow text "Protection (Current sensor anomaly)". I dont know if my BMS is faulty or something wrong related to software or firmware. Fact is, if one of the currents missing works fine. In your test Andy notice you use only one scenario, either charge or discharge not both. Haven't confirm yet if that affect also some other counters too, cycles used Ah etc.
More than a year has passed, how would you rate this bms to work with the 204EVE cells and a load between 1kw and 2kw? 2kw pulsing, induction cookplate in a campervan?
Excellent video Andy, many thanks. I dont know if yourself or anyone else might know if there is an issue for having the software mod loaded onto GX touchscreen for batteries with integrated BMS and still wanting to use a Victron BMS ver2 with victron batteries. Not as the same time but using either a Victron lithium set or integrated BMS batteries?
Good afternoon! I purchased BMS JK-B2A8S20P at TAO BAO. Unfortunately, the seller did not include a user manual. Can you recommend how to activate BMS? There is a short cable with two wires and a connector that fits into the display port.
Wait, so is the 'magic smoke' BMS broken/damaged? Still recommended? I'm confused! Thumbs up and still subscribed!
Aloha Andy! I ordered a JK-B2A8S20P, intending to do an 8S setup with EVE 304Ah cells. However: we ran out of money. Question: can I configure these to use our old 12V 3KW inverter? What if I put 4 pairs of parallel cells in series? Thanks!
Well done. Please, do a video of opening up that JK to see what smoked. Is there a C or F option for reporting temps? If you have the bluetooth display, why would you need the other display? Bluetooth seems to provide a lot more information, right? Thanks for sharing
Mine arrived today! Whooo!
This may sound foolish but, can I just connect my existing 2/0 [00]awg battery cables to this BMS? or must I use a cable under each of the 4 screws?
One cable on each side is fine as long as it suits the current you want to push through.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia thanks
Hi Andy, I wonder if you could help me. On the JK-BMS 4S-8S edition there is the RS485 socket. I have googled RS485 to try and buy a plug to connect to this socket but cannot find the plug type for this socket. Do you know the plug type that I am looking for? Thanks.
if the bms is rated for 200amps then it should be able to handle cutting off over 200+ amps in an over current scenario otherwise that's a major flaw in the design might be just a lemon unit but still these are there for safety it has to work perfectly
Hello Andy,
I am writing to you from France. I enjoy your videos.
So I have a question for you
I am considering modifying the electrical circuit in a boat.
Install a battery bank of 4 batteries parallel with 280 amp cells, each equipped with a JK 4S BMS. Completed with a Victron Cerbo GX system.
How to make my batteries communicate with each other and with the Victron Energie.
The new JK BMS JK-PB2A16S20P is equipped with an RS485/RS232/CAN/BT communication plate, can we connect this communication plate with the JK-B2A8S20P (12V battery)?
I thank you for your feedback
Laurent
great videos thanks. I'm a little confused why you like this BMS so much when it blew up? Shouldn't the Over Current protection kicked in and safely disconnected the load without blowing the output? Its rated to disconnect up to 350A? This would seem like a fail? Also if the unit is getting hot at 200A should it have active cooling built in?
Absolutely. This was the first device on the market and we have raised this issue with the manufacturer so they can choose different FETs in the future.
It has passive cooling and 200A constant current is stretching it. 200 Chinese amps are like 150 real world amps 😊
It is still the best consumer grade BMS out there.
Hi Andy, again please look at the SILICON AWG chart, the awg7 is over 300 amps, Silicon cable has a much higher strand count
Thank you. I'm just not sure if this is silicon cable. It looks like normal copper cable to me, not silicon fine stranded.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hi Andy, I don't think I have ever seen Chinese electronics without silicon wire. I bought a 10,000/18,000kw Chinese inverter and when I looked inside and saw the cable to the output terminals, like you I said no way, then discovered the American AWG is completely different to the Silicon AWG. And you yourself commented that it was cold when you ran 200Amps in the test where you got magic smoke from the JK BMS, By the way, I am Qualified electronics engineer with 50 years experience, retired now 70 years old and although it's not good practice to leave it, I would leave the dead FET if you do not have a hot air re work station. Keep up the excellent video's, you are like everyone's best friend . Bob Uk
At 6:28 you read that it doesn't support series connections. I'm looking for a clerification on this. This is to say I can't series up two 8s 24v drop ins for 48V? I thought a B2A24s20p or B2a20 would work. Seems a pretty basic 48v set up to me. What am i missing?
I assume that the emergency switch is like the battle short on army generators, bypasses safety checks that would prevent the generator from running and causing damage. Sometimes you just need power. I assume this bypasses the temperature restrictions and settings
Hi Andy, did u eventually contact the Hankzor about the serial/parallel question ? I have the same BMS and Hankzor never replyed to me so far. Thanks Chris
Be a nice setup with a finned heatsink instead of a flat aluminium plate for better heat dissipation or an ability to add a temp controlled fan, I have a new set of 16S 280ah batteries coming from Basen just arrived and has just gone through Australian customs so hopefully see them next week , as I am holding off on a BMS until I see something that stands out above the rest, this will power up a 11kw MMP inverter for off grid, but I am waiting on that also to be dispatched out of Taiwan.
Hi Andy, I have the same BMS in 4s config. Is it possible to turn the bms on with out a display? I did not buy one. thx
It depends what generation yours is and if it has the display port.
Hi Andy, sorry I am a bit confused now. I really enjoyed your video and even the "explosion" did not bother me, BUT: the digital meremaid pointed out in one of her videos, that JK unfortunately is selling some JK 4s BMS under the same label, that do not run under a 4s configuration. Hope, you get my point. How can I make sure, that I order the right (4S suitable) BMS? Thanks for all your work! And "Prost" from Bavaria.
Nice work. Thanks.
Super Video!
Danke Dir!
That noise was a mosfet poppin,they are under rated by 25A each and if ya got a oscilloscope ya wanna put that on the dc power out of the bms and then other channel on the ac of ya inverter
hello on this bms there is also a heating pad output, for cold places (camper van), a video with this element would be interesting.
The DC current measurement on the big battery is coming from the victron smart shunt, or do you have a special DC input/output?
The smart shunt is my only point of truth in my setup. All energy needs to go through it, in and out. There is no other bypass.