He's put a lot of work and practice into this. If you practice at your passion, you'll do great things. I had to learn this myself because I came from no money and no connections. Everyone has a unique circumstance and you have to be confident in you. Keep creating and follow your dreams. I'm giving you a sub.
I just see a man with passion, determination, and a dream to do what he's passionate about. Any man, regardless of the skin their in, that follows his example will succeed. The problem is when people fail they don't want to take accountability for it and look for something, or someone, to blame. I bet he's failed over and over, but I also bet that he didn't make any excuses, or say "I can't", or blame someone else for why he's not succeeding. He just kept at it, relentlessly, until he reached the next level and I bet it didn't stop there. I bet he keeps reaching for more. That's the secret. There is no secret. What separates winners from losers is winners never accept defeat. As I said, I don't see a black man. I just see a man. An American that got after it, and didn't quit on himself.
how does the photo at 9:40 make sense? if you look at sunny 16 rule, at iso 400 and kinda sunny you should be at f8 to f16 at 1/400th, you got f3.5 and 125th and its correct? howwww is it not like 7 stops overexposed?
I’ve noticed that you give your haters a lot of attention. Why? You’re doing great things. You have a very particular way of doing things. That’s you. That’s your style. You’re not an idiot. Love your videos and work. 💯
Awesome video! Came across this wow looking for resources to share with someone. This is exactly the way that I meter as well... I kind of think of it as the sunny 16 rule in reverse. I typically shoot with a 50 mm f2 or a 28 mm f2.8 and typically shoot wide open as well. 1/500- sunny 1/250- shade 1/125- cloudy 1/60- indoors,dusk I use these shutter speeds as a general starting point when shooting 400 speed film and simply shift it a bit to adjust my exposure if shooting with a different speed of film.
Wow I've been waiting for someone to talk about this and you're the first one I'm seeing to do that. Ultimately it's all about exposure and stops of light. ISO isn't variable when using film so really it's just shutter speed and aperture that are variable. 1/500th f16 is the same as 1/250th f22 because all you're doing is compensating one with the other.
@@vizprave6721 I'm glad it has helped. I use a similar rule when exposing shooting digital as well by using the zone system and spot metering, because the meter reads everything as middle gray, each stop of light represents a tone brighter or darker. I learned this on a Pentax k1000 which only had these particular shutter speeds with the addition of 1/1000 like most basic manual film cameras, so I learned early on to set the aperture first according to the amount of depth of field I want and then simply closed down or open the shutter as necessary, this is just a general guide I have developed for myself over the years.
@@vizprave6721 I will also add that I did learn the sunny 16 rule early on but always had a problem with it because sometimes I want a shallow depth of field in a daytime shot and you're just not going to get that using the sunny 16 rule, so the only other option is to compensate my closing down the shutter and using a higher shutter speed, it's a great way for anyone to learn the exposure triangle.
You gotta LOVE THIS MAN to create an account to support him! You guys are adorable together. Here is to 50 years of you two and I hope the wifey an I keep what you have :-) 🥂
Reading light without a meter is only possible with experience. You first need to learn how to spot meter and shoot in manual mode especially. You can also learn from trial and error. (You can use Matrix or Center) General light rule of thumb F1, iso 100 at 1sec is perfect candle light exposure in a dark room. So if you are going to attempt to learn how to. Find a iso and don't change it (iso 100). Find a aperture of F2 - F16 and don't change it (F5.6). The only value you will change is shutter speed in full stops (if your camera allows you to switch to full shutter speed stops use it). Find a base exposure somewhere; outside is the easiest. Set to Matrix or Evaluative metering and go to 0 on your meter. Take a picture. Now go inside where it should be darker. Count how many stops you increased to get a proper exposure. Back to 0 or middle grey. Now physically go back outside and look at the light, really take it in, then go back inside and look around at the overall light inside now knowing how many stops you needed to get a proper exposure. Say it was a 5 stop difference between outside and inside. If it's clicking in your mind yet, continue to go to different environments with various lighting and compare it to daylight. You'll start to see light as a thing and not just available light. If you keep taking mental notes on how many stops difference between outside and inside or wherever you will start counting stops. This worked for me. Basically I would be inside and go to a brighter room and count how many stops I decreased then back outside, and say to myself oh ok I need to decrease 4 more stops. Go to the mall and challenge myself at what the settings would be to get back to 0 or middle grey under the parking garage. Because I was only changing the shutter speed, it made learning simple easy and having gone a bunch of different environments and guessing I started to be more and more accurate because I started seeing light as a value and not just light. I'd say outside 1/1000 or 1/2000 done. Go under the garage, ok this looks like minus -3 stops, so 1/125. Then I would from that mental calculation adjust the other values based on effect and not exposure. I think still to this day most people don't know how to use a meter or what +1 or -1 on the scale actually means with context. Here's an ex. White person +1ev, Black person -1ev midtone. If a nature photographer is in Alaska. He should set spot meter, meter for the snow. The snow should be +2 or +3. He sets his exposure to +3 on the meter in manual mode spot meter and as long as the light doesn't change, his settings the entire time don't change. If you used AP your setting would change and you'd be off. If your camera is decent like a Nikon D3s you could set your camera for day light and shoot in raw with changing your settings as long as you weren't overexposing and adjust in post. If go to a really dark place just give yourself 2 to 3 stops of light putting you back in your cameras threshold.
you said that 1/1000 or 1/2000 is your shutter speed outside when its sunny so u go down to 1/125 / or like 1/250? because I see that when I use my light meter in the sun and I get confused like my shutter only goes to 1/1000 lol
@@youngyatta109 If your shutter speed only goes to 1/1000s, adjust Aperture. Especially if you're shooting film. I can go as high as 1/8000s if needed. I try to stay at F5.6 and iso 100 as a baseline during daylight. At night I swap profiles where my base iso is 800 going past golden hour. Ask yourself what effect you want. Depth of field (more in focus or less in focus) or Grain and Contrast. I sold my D3s and DF and went back to a D200 for the look. However now it only goes to iso 1600 (Hi = 3200). The controls are less customizable. I could get clean images well beyond 12,800. On the DF, b/w at over iso 102k it just looked like ilford 1600 film pushed to 12,800. Year old question 🤣 well guess if someone else reads it, it may help. I drive a lot and I just don't have time to fiddle with controls much so I just read the light. The D200 isn't as easy to use 1 handed as the D300 or D3s or DF. Shooting in AP is easier, just adjust exp comp to -1 to -1.7 in Center weighted avg. and Auto ISO 100 for day time, Auto ISO 800 for night time. Point and Shoot. -1.7 exp comp moves your LV down nearly 2 stops. A digital camera dynamic range typically only reads up to LV17 if shot 14bit raw and processed in 16bit or higher. -1.7 moves you to LV0. LV17 - 1.7 = LV15.3 which is basically a grey card in full sunlight. Digital retains shadows on good cameras 5 to 6 stops and with all these new software AI programs noise doesn't matter much anymore. Basically all that did was move highlights down nearly to 0 or +0.3 if you look at the 14bit vs 12bit EV table. People edit in LR, better to edit in Photoshop in 16bit mode or 32bit mode then convert once done. LR leaves a lot on the table, it's good for workflow.
I've seen a lot of Photographers exposing with their aperture and this is something I was taught not to do. I was told to have a depth of field in mind for the shot I'm taking and work around that.
"I can just breathe and people be mad at me"...keep going my dude, those ppl don't matter. As a beginner, taking up film this was very helpful! much love
Vuhlandes your over exposed style with some of your portraits rocked my world, love the visual and often try for it now in my own work; thanks very much my man.
This video came right 👏🏾 on 👏🏾 time👏🏾. Love your explanation about not over complicating light. Excited to learn through trial and error when it comes to my film photography
Honestly, you just gotta keep shooting more! Especially digital. If you’re constantly observing the numbers and seeing the instant correlation with your photography, eventually you’ll grow an eye for the exposure triangle. I’ve been shooting photos for so long I can walk into a room and say “this lighting situation looks like a 2.8, 1/125, ISO 800 kinda photo” and I’m usually correct. Keep shooting more!!!
been using the sunny 16 rule for 3 years and just realized my fav photo ive ever taken was when i forgot to reset aperture at sunset and thought it was gonna be underexposed.. just connected the dots after watching this vid lmaooo good looks!
describing your shutterspeed and how you set up for shots in varying light situations, hell yes. I have been searching for some guidance and you have delivered. Dope dope video
This dude is the truth! I love what you did in Califonia with the Chevy Nova. Dope picture smh. Film photography is where it is at! I have a Sony a6400.. Digital vs Film hmmm I love the quality of Film.
Those that want this info: Sunny 16 should be seen as a guide and not a rule. 400 ISO film. 400th at f16 or 800th f11 or 1600th f8 or 3200th f5.6. It's a scale to use and not just how to get to f16.
I only recently subscribed to you but man I am so glad I did. I love how down to earth your videos are man, none of that bulls**t you see elsewhere. Keep it up man.
Impeccable timing-- i JUST have become very concerned with this topic just starting a few days ago because my film cameras are giving me a lot of inconsistency. THANK YOU FOR THIS!
my friends always tell me i "freeball" with my light too much. i tell them "please just trust the process" photos come out very nice almost every single time.
Truth, I pretty much switched entirely to UltraMax 400. Superia 400 always has these muddy green shadows that show up if the shot isn't basically overexposed. Maybe just my experience with my setup. Great video! 👌
I'm confused. I dont see how it could of been a bright sunny day. Iso 400 film shot at 1/125 at f 3.5. It would have to be blown out. Ive had my phone light meter on a sunny day for 4.0 and I'll still be around 1/000 or 800.
Most professional film can handle about 6 stops of being over exposed. For portra 400 shooting 2 stops over exposed is ok and results in a pastel color tones.
I do use a meter and started on shooting film before digital existed (yep I am old). I understand what you are essentially saying, experience matters. I often look at the light on the back of my hand and can nail an exposure from that. One thing I would like to see is your processed film and how dense the negatives or saturated the positives are depending on stock. I shoot an RZ67Pro II but no prism and will meter for that. Part of the metering process for me is ritual and settles me into the shoot. Keep up tye nice work.
Peace, king! Well deserved! I usually just watch your content, hit like and move on. Had to take a moment to say congratulations and keep on keepin' on!
I relate to this, I didn't actually know what sunny 16 was until this year and I've been shooting for about 4 years! Doing digital first before film definitely helped know when to use which settings. It kind of becomes like muscle memory
Hi I just found you through Casey Neistat and I love your videos. I began shooting 40 years ago with film and I love your presets! I've been shooting digital for last twenty years but you're inspiring me to go back to my Nikon and great glass lenses. :)
Great video and explanation, but are all your example photos raw with no highlight/shadow editing? That would help to see what your camera settings are really doing straight out the camera.
If you made online classes for film beginners I’d totally throw down $$$. Some classes I’ve seen “teach you the story telling of photography”.... I don’t need to know that! 🤣🤣🤣
Hey, Vuhlandes. After seeing some of the results here I am both curious and a bit confused. Sunny 16 was the only thing I have been using with my meterless Vito-C and It's been... okay, not great, just okay. Say that picture from 9:42 in the field. According to the sunny 16, that looks to be lightly cloudy, so ISO 400, 1/400 and F11. But you used 1/125 and F3.5. That's like. Roughly 5-ish stops over. And it still looks great, the subject is dressed in white, and it isn't blown out. So, does the rule tend to underexpose that much or is Portra just that good at handling overexposure? I am curious, if you had to shoot something like say Ektachrome that doesn't have so much latitude, what settings would you have gone for in that particular field scene? How would you modify the Sunny 16 chart to get it closer to your preference and experience? Just shift the exposure on the chart 4-5 stops over and call it good? or is that not always suitable?
I thought the same exact thing!!! I thought, How on earth is it exposed so correctly? I thought it had to be done in post production and that he darkened the image exponentially?? I hope he answers these questions 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Год назад
Same for me. I don't use a lightmeter but I still calculate from Sunny 16... No way this is possible without special treatment in developing.
This is freaking helpful, thank you. I have a lightmeter, but I can’t handle it yet and I can’t trust it fully so... Everything does make sense and my college prof told us similar things; but I am yet unable to get the right look. I need more practice and that’s why I needed this video. Thanks
Dope video! Fuck the haters because obviously they aren’t doing what you’re doing or even putting in the work that you are. Let em talk and keep it Moving. Really enjoy you channel bro! Much love!
Wow, overexposing 4 stops of light if you used sunny 16. I would have never done that. Thats insane, I really gotta experiment more. The pictures look amazing
Just got a new film camera as a early Christmas gift and I am so excited to shoot, so this video was perfect and inspiring!! Thank you for sharing your advice, experience and trial and errors, it’s appreciated 👌🏽
Thanks for this video. I have just got myself a 1979 Zenit B camera. My last film camera I got about 42 years ago (Olympus Trip 35) and really wanted to go back to some film shooting. My camera does not have a light meter at all, seriously basic but that's what I wanted. Useful video, but wonder if I should have got myself some portra 400.
Congrats! Well deserved. Your videos have me interested in trying something different and shooting film. Thank you for sharing your process and wisdom.
I really admire your reading of light without even falling back on a light meter for low light. Overexposing by more than 2 stops isn’t exactly my cup of tea, but you make it work with color negative film (higher latitude). What adjustments do you personally make for slide film?
🥳 Congratulations!!!!!!! The gold plaque next! I use a light meter but when I don't feel like bothering with it I'll wing it based on the lighting and what I want in focus... Tell M to drop that already too, I peeped 👀!
Correct me if I’m wrong but is the sunny 16 rule more for the average consumer? Just to get a properly exposed photo. Usually on 400iso film on my Minolta x700 I shoot at 500 shutter and aperture around f/1.4-2.8 with my exposure adjuster +2 stops. Comes out great P.s. when I first started with film I would just run shutter 1000 and just adjuster my aperture around 8 daylight and 4-6 in the evenings and shadows. Awesome to see the progress I’ve made though, so fun!
Hi! I have a question about the outdoor shots you took in this video video. Based on the light conditions and the film you're shooting, Sunny 16 would say to use f/11 (partly cloudy) and 1/500 speed (reciprocal of the ISO). Taking f/11 and 1/500 as the starting point, the equivalent exposure for your 1/125 speed would be f/22. You shot at 1/125 and *f/3.5* and the result looks great. That's, like, 5 whole stops above the Sunny 16 suggestion. Is Sunny 16 just that useless? Or was it a lot darker outside than it looks in the video? I'm very impressed by your ability to guess exposure while bucking conventional wisdom. Thanks! Love your channel.
Real talk all these acessories and toools are for people who just dont have the innate talent and ability in some areas. Not a bad thing by any means but experience, patience and the will to follow your intuition is a true testament to what we can do as creators. Everyone is different and its a new time. Everyone shine in being themselves instead of one person making it seem like there is only one way to do something. You will end up teaching alternative paths just watch lol
I just got my first film camera over the weekend and tbh I’m just imagining what my settings would be using a digital camera 💀😂😂 probably not the best thing to do but it kinda gives me an idea, idk I guess I’ll find out when I’m done shooting the roll 🤷🏻♂️😂
I doubt it you are right. I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16. Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the summer? My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
You dope asf! Don't have the money to be developing all the rolls I take, but Im tryna take more pics and see them. Do yall suggest I get a digital camera?
Me last week: light meter video?
This nigga:
nigaa pls
Seeing a young black creator just a few years older than me succeeding, makes me feel a lot more confident in doing this myself. Love.
Amarier Lizana it’s a sad world when that’s what gives you confidence
Jon, it’s a sign to me that it can change
He's put a lot of work and practice into this. If you practice at your passion, you'll do great things. I had to learn this myself because I came from no money and no connections. Everyone has a unique circumstance and you have to be confident in you. Keep creating and follow your dreams. I'm giving you a sub.
I just see a man with passion, determination, and a dream to do what he's passionate about. Any man, regardless of the skin their in, that follows his example will succeed. The problem is when people fail they don't want to take accountability for it and look for something, or someone, to blame. I bet he's failed over and over, but I also bet that he didn't make any excuses, or say "I can't", or blame someone else for why he's not succeeding. He just kept at it, relentlessly, until he reached the next level and I bet it didn't stop there. I bet he keeps reaching for more. That's the secret. There is no secret. What separates winners from losers is winners never accept defeat. As I said, I don't see a black man. I just see a man. An American that got after it, and didn't quit on himself.
This. I was so excited to find this channel because I’ve noticed the lack of POC photographs on the platform
how does the photo at 9:40 make sense? if you look at sunny 16 rule, at iso 400 and kinda sunny you should be at f8 to f16 at 1/400th, you got f3.5 and 125th and its correct? howwww is it not like 7 stops overexposed?
I’ve noticed that you give your haters a lot of attention. Why? You’re doing great things. You have a very particular way of doing things. That’s you. That’s your style. You’re not an idiot. Love your videos and work. 💯
Awesome video! Came across this wow looking for resources to share with someone. This is exactly the way that I meter as well... I kind of think of it as the sunny 16 rule in reverse. I typically shoot with a 50 mm f2 or a 28 mm f2.8 and typically shoot wide open as well.
1/500- sunny
1/250- shade
1/125- cloudy
1/60- indoors,dusk
I use these shutter speeds as a general starting point when shooting 400 speed film and simply shift it a bit to adjust my exposure if shooting with a different speed of film.
Stop saying awesome are you American!!! We are English just say fantastic great super.. Speak English stop being lazy!!!!!
Wow I've been waiting for someone to talk about this and you're the first one I'm seeing to do that. Ultimately it's all about exposure and stops of light. ISO isn't variable when using film so really it's just shutter speed and aperture that are variable. 1/500th f16 is the same as 1/250th f22 because all you're doing is compensating one with the other.
@@vizprave6721 I'm glad it has helped. I use a similar rule when exposing shooting digital as well by using the zone system and spot metering, because the meter reads everything as middle gray, each stop of light represents a tone brighter or darker. I learned this on a Pentax k1000 which only had these particular shutter speeds with the addition of 1/1000 like most basic manual film cameras, so I learned early on to set the aperture first according to the amount of depth of field I want and then simply closed down or open the shutter as necessary, this is just a general guide I have developed for myself over the years.
@@vizprave6721 I will also add that I did learn the sunny 16 rule early on but always had a problem with it because sometimes I want a shallow depth of field in a daytime shot and you're just not going to get that using the sunny 16 rule, so the only other option is to compensate my closing down the shutter and using a higher shutter speed, it's a great way for anyone to learn the exposure triangle.
Presets babyyyyy🤪🤪🤪 amazing video per usual. He does it all people. And is that.... Wilson Chandler?!?? 😱
Lmao Amal “is that Wilson Chandler!?” Headass 💀💀
Gloading 🤣🤣🤣
You gotta LOVE THIS MAN to create an account to support him! You guys are adorable together. Here is to 50 years of you two and I hope the wifey an I keep what you have :-) 🥂
Reading light without a meter is only possible with experience. You first need to learn how to spot meter and shoot in manual mode especially. You can also learn from trial and error. (You can use Matrix or Center)
General light rule of thumb
F1, iso 100 at 1sec is perfect candle light exposure in a dark room.
So if you are going to attempt to learn how to. Find a iso and don't change it (iso 100). Find a aperture of F2 - F16 and don't change it (F5.6). The only value you will change is shutter speed in full stops (if your camera allows you to switch to full shutter speed stops use it).
Find a base exposure somewhere; outside is the easiest. Set to Matrix or Evaluative metering and go to 0 on your meter. Take a picture. Now go inside where it should be darker. Count how many stops you increased to get a proper exposure. Back to 0 or middle grey.
Now physically go back outside and look at the light, really take it in, then go back inside and look around at the overall light inside now knowing how many stops you needed to get a proper exposure.
Say it was a 5 stop difference between outside and inside. If it's clicking in your mind yet, continue to go to different environments with various lighting and compare it to daylight. You'll start to see light as a thing and not just available light.
If you keep taking mental notes on how many stops difference between outside and inside or wherever you will start counting stops. This worked for me. Basically I would be inside and go to a brighter room and count how many stops I decreased then back outside, and say to myself oh ok I need to decrease 4 more stops. Go to the mall and challenge myself at what the settings would be to get back to 0 or middle grey under the parking garage.
Because I was only changing the shutter speed, it made learning simple easy and having gone a bunch of different environments and guessing I started to be more and more accurate because I started seeing light as a value and not just light.
I'd say outside 1/1000 or 1/2000 done. Go under the garage, ok this looks like minus -3 stops, so 1/125. Then I would from that mental calculation adjust the other values based on effect and not exposure.
I think still to this day most people don't know how to use a meter or what +1 or -1 on the scale actually means with context.
Here's an ex. White person +1ev, Black person -1ev midtone.
If a nature photographer is in Alaska. He should set spot meter, meter for the snow. The snow should be +2 or +3. He sets his exposure to +3 on the meter in manual mode spot meter and as long as the light doesn't change, his settings the entire time don't change. If you used AP your setting would change and you'd be off.
If your camera is decent like a Nikon D3s you could set your camera for day light and shoot in raw with changing your settings as long as you weren't overexposing and adjust in post. If go to a really dark place just give yourself 2 to 3 stops of light putting you back in your cameras threshold.
you said that 1/1000 or 1/2000 is your shutter speed outside when its sunny so u go down to 1/125 / or like 1/250? because I see that when I use my light meter in the sun and I get confused like my shutter only goes to 1/1000 lol
@@youngyatta109 If your shutter speed only goes to 1/1000s, adjust Aperture. Especially if you're shooting film. I can go as high as 1/8000s if needed. I try to stay at F5.6 and iso 100 as a baseline during daylight. At night I swap profiles where my base iso is 800 going past golden hour.
Ask yourself what effect you want. Depth of field (more in focus or less in focus) or Grain and Contrast.
I sold my D3s and DF and went back to a D200 for the look. However now it only goes to iso 1600 (Hi = 3200). The controls are less customizable. I could get clean images well beyond 12,800. On the DF, b/w at over iso 102k it just looked like ilford 1600 film pushed to 12,800.
Year old question 🤣 well guess if someone else reads it, it may help.
I drive a lot and I just don't have time to fiddle with controls much so I just read the light. The D200 isn't as easy to use 1 handed as the D300 or D3s or DF.
Shooting in AP is easier, just adjust exp comp to -1 to -1.7 in Center weighted avg. and Auto ISO 100 for day time, Auto ISO 800 for night time. Point and Shoot.
-1.7 exp comp moves your LV down nearly 2 stops. A digital camera dynamic range typically only reads up to LV17 if shot 14bit raw and processed in 16bit or higher. -1.7 moves you to LV0. LV17 - 1.7 = LV15.3 which is basically a grey card in full sunlight. Digital retains shadows on good cameras 5 to 6 stops and with all these new software AI programs noise doesn't matter much anymore. Basically all that did was move highlights down nearly to 0 or +0.3 if you look at the 14bit vs 12bit EV table. People edit in LR, better to edit in Photoshop in 16bit mode or 32bit mode then convert once done. LR leaves a lot on the table, it's good for workflow.
I've seen a lot of Photographers exposing with their aperture and this is something I was taught not to do. I was told to have a depth of field in mind for the shot I'm taking and work around that.
u were told the right thing, they werent.. also they overexpose by 6 stops which hopefully you werent taught too
"I can just breathe and people be mad at me"...keep going my dude, those ppl don't matter. As a beginner, taking up film this was very helpful! much love
Vuhlandes your over exposed style with some of your portraits rocked my world, love the visual and often try for it now in my own work; thanks very much my man.
I’m definitely a combination of “guessing” based off experience and Sunny 16 lol
This video came right 👏🏾 on 👏🏾 time👏🏾. Love your explanation about not over complicating light. Excited to learn through trial and error when it comes to my film photography
-how do you shoot film without a light meter?
-just guess and eventually you'll be a good guesser
🤦♂
Honestly, you just gotta keep shooting more! Especially digital. If you’re constantly observing the numbers and seeing the instant correlation with your photography, eventually you’ll grow an eye for the exposure triangle. I’ve been shooting photos for so long I can walk into a room and say “this lighting situation looks like a 2.8, 1/125, ISO 800 kinda photo” and I’m usually correct. Keep shooting more!!!
It’s great to see a black photographer doing there thing and making the moves you are man! Keep pushing and I love the content. 💯
I love your transparency and realism with shit bro. Just organic and genuine. You’ve helped me so much in my 6 months of shooting!
been using the sunny 16 rule for 3 years and just realized my fav photo ive ever taken was when i forgot to reset aperture at sunset and thought it was gonna be underexposed.. just connected the dots after watching this vid lmaooo good looks!
oohh the vuhlandes youtube king!!!!
describing your shutterspeed and how you set up for shots in varying light situations, hell yes. I have been searching for some guidance and you have delivered. Dope dope video
This dude is the truth! I love what you did in Califonia with the Chevy Nova. Dope picture smh. Film photography is where it is at! I have a Sony a6400.. Digital vs Film hmmm I love the quality of Film.
Wow you upload almost everyday! I love to see it man! Wow
Just thrifted a few old cameras and have no light meter so thank you!
Those that want this info:
Sunny 16 should be seen as a guide and not a rule.
400 ISO film. 400th at f16 or 800th f11 or 1600th f8 or 3200th f5.6. It's a scale to use and not just how to get to f16.
I only recently subscribed to you but man I am so glad I did. I love how down to earth your videos are man, none of that bulls**t you see elsewhere. Keep it up man.
Impeccable timing-- i JUST have become very concerned with this topic just starting a few days ago because my film cameras are giving me a lot of inconsistency. THANK YOU FOR THIS!
my friends always tell me i "freeball" with my light too much. i tell them "please just trust the process" photos come out very nice almost every single time.
those shots of wilson chandler 🤯
Truth, I pretty much switched entirely to UltraMax 400. Superia 400 always has these muddy green shadows that show up if the shot isn't basically overexposed. Maybe just my experience with my setup. Great video! 👌
I love Fuji's film stocks, but the green shadows can definitely be a pain in the ass.
I'm confused. I dont see how it could of been a bright sunny day. Iso 400 film shot at 1/125 at f 3.5. It would have to be blown out. Ive had my phone light meter on a sunny day for 4.0 and I'll still be around 1/000 or 800.
I was confused too lol
Most professional film can handle about 6 stops of being over exposed. For portra 400 shooting 2 stops over exposed is ok and results in a pastel color tones.
Portra eats up that over exposure
he also uses a full step black pro mist filter which i believe affects exposure by around one-stop
@@chilledtones9541 yeh but that was around 6 stops over, not a couple. I don't believe this.
I do use a meter and started on shooting film before digital existed (yep I am old). I understand what you are essentially saying, experience matters. I often look at the light on the back of my hand and can nail an exposure from that.
One thing I would like to see is your processed film and how dense the negatives or saturated the positives are depending on stock.
I shoot an RZ67Pro II but no prism and will meter for that. Part of the metering process for me is ritual and settles me into the shoot.
Keep up tye nice work.
Peace, king! Well deserved! I usually just watch your content, hit like and move on. Had to take a moment to say congratulations and keep on keepin' on!
I relate to this, I didn't actually know what sunny 16 was until this year and I've been shooting for about 4 years! Doing digital first before film definitely helped know when to use which settings. It kind of becomes like muscle memory
Great start mate! Props on the plaque 👌🏻💪🏻💪🏻
your dreads are beautiful and I feel like they're not appreciated enough
💛 loved the video. the examples of the shots you took and your exposure was helpful. thank you for sharing your experience and understanding.
Hi I just found you through Casey Neistat and I love your videos. I began shooting 40 years ago with film and I love your presets! I've been shooting digital for last twenty years but you're inspiring me to go back to my Nikon and great glass lenses. :)
Great video and explanation, but are all your example photos raw with no highlight/shadow editing? That would help to see what your camera settings are really doing straight out the camera.
If you made online classes for film beginners I’d totally throw down $$$. Some classes I’ve seen “teach you the story telling of photography”.... I don’t need to know that! 🤣🤣🤣
Stay tuned .... 🤔
Amal 🙏🏻
I think taking everything you can from everywhere will make life in general more enriching
@@Atlas92936 Wise words sir
I like these help videos because it's like comparing notes and tips. Don't feel like I'm being told what to do like other producers 😊
Beautiful shots bro. That PVC desk in the studio space was pretty cool too.
I’ve been waiting for this video 🙏🏾
Hey, Vuhlandes. After seeing some of the results here I am both curious and a bit confused. Sunny 16 was the only thing I have been using with my meterless Vito-C and It's been... okay, not great, just okay.
Say that picture from 9:42 in the field. According to the sunny 16, that looks to be lightly cloudy, so ISO 400, 1/400 and F11.
But you used 1/125 and F3.5. That's like. Roughly 5-ish stops over. And it still looks great, the subject is dressed in white, and it isn't blown out. So, does the rule tend to underexpose that much or is Portra just that good at handling overexposure? I am curious, if you had to shoot something like say Ektachrome that doesn't have so much latitude, what settings would you have gone for in that particular field scene?
How would you modify the Sunny 16 chart to get it closer to your preference and experience? Just shift the exposure on the chart 4-5 stops over and call it good? or is that not always suitable?
I thought the same exact thing!!! I thought, How on earth is it exposed so correctly? I thought it had to be done in post production and that he darkened the image exponentially?? I hope he answers these questions 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Same for me. I don't use a lightmeter but I still calculate from Sunny 16... No way this is possible without special treatment in developing.
You process works! Nough said. "Just do it!" Okay Nike.
This is freaking helpful, thank you. I have a lightmeter, but I can’t handle it yet and I can’t trust it fully so...
Everything does make sense and my college prof told us similar things; but I am yet unable to get the right look. I need more practice and that’s why I needed this video. Thanks
one of the most useful videos you made yet. love from the uk
brooo i love the educational type of videos!
Dope video! Fuck the haters because obviously they aren’t doing what you’re doing or even putting in the work that you are. Let em talk and keep it Moving. Really enjoy you channel bro! Much love!
all these shots were cooold af. good shit mane.
Always looking forward to your videos. Saw the pics on Twitter, the lighting is delightful!
Wow, overexposing 4 stops of light if you used sunny 16. I would have never done that. Thats insane, I really gotta experiment more. The pictures look amazing
Great video. Very helpful! Thanks!!
Been waiting on this video
Just got a new film camera as a early Christmas gift and I am so excited to shoot, so this video was perfect and inspiring!! Thank you for sharing your advice, experience and trial and errors, it’s appreciated 👌🏽
Just started film photography and this was mad helpful Brotha
Appreciate your time bro! As a new photographer, I'm glad I found your content. This video was simple and clear 💥
I’m shooting on hasselblad been trynna figure this out for the longest you just helped me a shit ton Thanks fam
SO happy I found your channel. You have some great content.
Thanks for this video. I have just got myself a 1979 Zenit B camera. My last film camera I got about 42 years ago (Olympus Trip 35) and really wanted to go back to some film shooting. My camera does not have a light meter at all, seriously basic but that's what I wanted. Useful video, but wonder if I should have got myself some portra 400.
Congrats! Well deserved. Your videos have me interested in trying something different and shooting film. Thank you for sharing your process and wisdom.
I really admire your reading of light without even falling back on a light meter for low light. Overexposing by more than 2 stops isn’t exactly my cup of tea, but you make it work with color negative film (higher latitude). What adjustments do you personally make for slide film?
Super late comment and might be dumb but is it possible to use a digital camera as a light meter to kinda see if settings would work for the film?
🥳 Congratulations!!!!!!! The gold plaque next! I use a light meter but when I don't feel like bothering with it I'll wing it based on the lighting and what I want in focus... Tell M to drop that already too, I peeped 👀!
do more videos like this ! thank you so helpful
Correct me if I’m wrong but is the sunny 16 rule more for the average consumer? Just to get a properly exposed photo.
Usually on 400iso film on my Minolta x700 I shoot at 500 shutter and aperture around f/1.4-2.8 with my exposure adjuster +2 stops. Comes out great
P.s. when I first started with film I would just run shutter 1000 and just adjuster my aperture around 8 daylight and 4-6 in the evenings and shadows. Awesome to see the progress I’ve made though, so fun!
Hi! I have a question about the outdoor shots you took in this video video. Based on the light conditions and the film you're shooting, Sunny 16 would say to use f/11 (partly cloudy) and 1/500 speed (reciprocal of the ISO). Taking f/11 and 1/500 as the starting point, the equivalent exposure for your 1/125 speed would be f/22. You shot at 1/125 and *f/3.5* and the result looks great. That's, like, 5 whole stops above the Sunny 16 suggestion. Is Sunny 16 just that useless? Or was it a lot darker outside than it looks in the video? I'm very impressed by your ability to guess exposure while bucking conventional wisdom. Thanks! Love your channel.
I wish you did a Skillshare class on shooting medium format.
I enjoyed this video bro...I'm going to just go out and not be afraid to fuck it up honestly..m great video G ✌🏿🖤👊🏿💯
Real talk all these acessories and toools are for people who just dont have the innate talent and ability in some areas. Not a bad thing by any means but experience, patience and the will to follow your intuition is a true testament to what we can do as creators. Everyone is different and its a new time. Everyone shine in being themselves instead of one person making it seem like there is only one way to do something.
You will end up teaching alternative paths just watch lol
I loved this video... thanks for the inspo and the info!
Congrats bro. You deserve it 👍
Man you inspiring me to get my own film camera.
Congrats on the accomplishment!
When you overexpose are you telling the lab you overexposed or are you developing at box speed?
Fuck gotta be homie favorite word lol its even on his t-shirt
Great! Medium format + aperture 3.5= no focus problem, omg, how do you do it?
Thanks for inspiring us man . Much love woe 🖤🎞
Talk to em cuh 🔥
had to grab my fuji before the video starts
We here NEW VUH ALERT!
On the opposite with digital you want to shoot slightly underexposed to save your highlights
Question, so if you’re shooting 800 film, are you still setting the camera iso to 400 and pulling it one step? I’m confused
As always, great video.
I just got my first film camera over the weekend and tbh I’m just imagining what my settings would be using a digital camera 💀😂😂 probably not the best thing to do but it kinda gives me an idea, idk I guess I’ll find out when I’m done shooting the roll 🤷🏻♂️😂
I doubt it you are right.
I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16.
Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the summer?
My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
Next lets get that gold button!
Just hoped on youtube and got blessed with this video. Love your work man. hopefully, we can work together in the future.
needed this video, great video bro!
what camera does your video guy use?
thx for the video man it was nice and smooth ....
"i can just breathe and ppl be mad at me"....lmao well im not mad at you bro. thanks for this video hahaha
Hey man I was just wondering what camera shop do you have in Detroit? I live near Saginaw and I was just wondering where you got your film
You definitely deserve that and more!!! 👍🏽 😉
Bright sun, f16 @ 1/iso
Bright overcast f11
Indoors or dusk f5.6
If in doubt, over expose 1 stop.
Where can u get the burned or damaged borders you add to your photos?
I gotta agree man. I short digital and am transitioning to film. I’ve been on M the whole time shooting and I just kinda judge stuff and shoot
What application do you use to post to instagram from your computer?
You dope asf! Don't have the money to be developing all the rolls I take, but Im tryna take more pics and see them. Do yall suggest I get a digital camera?
You’re giving great advice!
What tri pod is that?
I’m from Seattle so we call it the cloudy f8 rule 😂